Hodinkee
Hands-On: Czapek Splits The Difference With The New Antarctique Rattrapante Ice Blue
A return to one of the most successful chronograph debuts in recent memory.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Hodinkee
Revolution
Naturally Eternal: The Watchmaking of Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels’ intricate new collection of technical timepieces draw inspiration from the life and whimsy of nature.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202 and the Cal. 7121
Launched in January 2022 to kick off the 50th anniversary year of Audemars Piguet’s most famous watch, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 is the latest generation – or the third generation specifically – of the quintessential Royal Oak design. Design-wise the new “Jumbo” doesn’t depart from its predecessor, the ref. 15202, or even the original ref. 5402 of 1972. Audemars Piguet (AP) has smartly kept the design unchanged, but the watch has been thoroughly and smartly upgraded in many respects, especially in terms of ergonomics and mechanics. The new “Jumbo” is undoubtedly a “hype” watch of today, but it has considerable intrinsic qualities that mark it out as a thoughtfully constructed timepiece, most notably the cal. 7121 within that’s entirely new and the replacement for the long-in-tooth cal. 2120/2121 that has powered every generation of the “Jumbo” since 1972. Developed from the ground up to fit the slim dimensions of the “Jumbo” case, the cal. 7121 still manages to incorporate various amenities and advancements expected in a 21st century construction by a respected manufacture. We explain the movement in depth below. Initial thoughts Famously penned by Gerald Genta in 1972, the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 has near perfect proportions. Wide but flat, angular yet graceful, the “Jumbo” is easily distinguishable from other Royal Oak models. Most other Royal Oak models tend to be thicker regardless of diameter, making the ...
Quill & Pad
Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit Monopusher Column Wheel Chronograph: Signaling A New Design Era For The Brand
The Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit chronograph is an aesthetic and mechanical update to the classic Memoris chronograph that may end up being the most sought-after model yet. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look at how it arrived here.
Quill & Pad
Results Of The Ineichen ‘Precious Blues’ Auction On April 23, 2022
Here Elizabeth Doerr brings you the results of Ineichen's Precious Blues auction on April 23, 2022, including eight less mainstream picks.
Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: Time To Repeat The Threepeat: It's The Return Of 3 on 3!
This weekend is all about the power of three.
Quill & Pad
The Soul Of A Watch: A Contemplation With Beautiful Imagery - Reprise
Why watches? Ask what makes a watch enthusiast tick and the idea of the “soul” of a watch might well feature in the response – the idea that something elevates the watch from a cold object of engineering to something of greater import. Here Ryan Schmidt tracks "soul" down and gets contemplative on its nature along with some very special imagery.
Quill & Pad
Time Design Exhibition: Hands And Eyes On The Beauty Of Watchmaking
If you attended Watches and Wonders 2022, you may have noticed the large exhibition called Time Design right near the entrance, which was organized by the cultural arm of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. If you missed the Time Design exhibition at the fair, you may now see it until May 8, 2022 in the FHH’s space at Pont de la Machine right in the center of Geneva. It is free and open to the public.
SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Repeater Ceramic
Having unveiled a series of integrated-bracelet watches in candy-coloured ceramic at Watches & Wonders 2022, Hublot has followed up with a “high complication” in ceramic, the Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater Ceramic. While complicated watches in end-to-end ceramic already exist, striking watches in ceramic are rare, with only Hublot and Audemars Piguet having made such watches. The Big Bang Integral is novel for combining both a tourbillon and repeater, one with longer-than-usual cathedral gongs in fact. And it manages to be water resistant in contrast to most striking watches that are merely moisture-proof, due to the challenge of sealing the slide while allowing maximum sound transmission. Initial thoughts The latest Big Bang Integral perfectly encapsulates Hublot as a brand, illustrating its strengths (and a few weaknesses). It’s powered by a complex, in-house movement contained matched with a case and bracelet that showcases the brand’s proficiency with unusual materials – all of which is possible thanks to the brand’s expansive yet agile manufacture. In typical Hublot fashion, the watch is loud – visually rather than acoustically – even in black. It looks like a Hublot, and the brand has essentially only one aesthetic. It has a technical, modern aesthetic that goes well with the open dial, a feature that’s uncommon in minute repeaters but useful since it reveals the entirety of the strikework. At almost US$300,000, the Tourbillon Repeat...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New Black Dial Tank Louis Cartier Isn't A Must - But It's Still A MUST
Minimalism and yellow gold are quite the pairing.
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Unveils the Extraordinary Lucomorye Clock
While better known for his ingenious and quirky wristwatches, Konstantin Chaykin’s roots are in clockmaking, large, complicated, and ornate clocks to be exact. Six years in the making, his latest timekeeper is the Lucomorye Clock, a testament to the Russian watchmaker’s aesthetic vision and mechanic prowess. Lavishly decorated with gemstones and precious materials by renowned Russian jeweller, Ilgiz Fazulzyanov, the Lucomorye Clock has a fairytale exterior. But perhaps more significant are the fascinating mechanics centred on a remarkable way of displaying the hours – a chain wraps around a drum to display to form of Roman numerals that change with the time. The simplicity of the chain belies the mechanical complexity within, which is naturally patented. Initial Thoughts Mr Chaykin’s rise to fame internationally started with the Joker, a whimsical wristwatch with an amusing “rolling eye” display. But though the Joker and its successors remain Mr Chaykin’s bestsellers, they are not the best representation of his creative and mechanical genius. His talents are illustrated best with clocks, which have no limitations in terms of size, allowing for intricate complications impossible on a small scale. Amongst his most notable clocks is the series of Easter-themed clocks that he released annually starting in 2005, each with a complication to indicate the date of Orthodox Easter – an unconventional and rare complication due to the complexity of calculations req...
Hodinkee
Inside The Manufacture: A Visit To La Fabrique Du Temps, Louis Vuitton's Audacity-Inspiring Temple To Fine Watchmaking
The world's largest luxury brand has an eye for detail.
Time+Tide
MICRO-MONDAYS: The Audric Strider is a stylish diver with hefty wrist presence for under $600 (if you’re quick)
Audric launched their first watch in 2020, deep in the throes of the global pandemic. The SeaBorne stood out from the crowd of Kickstarter-funded dive watches due to its multicoloured flair, attention to detail and impressive bang for its buck. For their second watch, the Audric Strider, the brand has now pulled out all the stops … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Audric Strider is a stylish diver with hefty wrist presence for under $600 (if you’re quick) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
3 Reasonably Priced German Watches From The Inhorgenta 2022 Watch Fair By Tutima Glashütte, Mühle Glashütte, And MeisterSinger
Here are three of Sabine Zwettler's highlights premiering at the Inhorgenta 2022 watch fair in Munich, each of which comes from a German brand and each of which will do anything but break the bank.
Quill & Pad
Parmigiani Fleurier And The Yusupov Fabergé Egg Of 1907 - Reprise
When they hear the name Fabergé, most people immediately think of Imperial Easter eggs. The egg tradition hatched in 1885 when Tsar Alexander III commissioned his first Easter egg from Fabergé as a gift to his wife, Empress Maria Feodor. This became a yearly tradition, with Fabergé creating 49 eggs in total for the Russian court up to 1916. Here we have the story of the Yusupov Egg of 1907 and how it was restored by Parmigiani.
Hodinkee
How I Got Here: Meet The New(ish) CEO Of The Americas For Audemars Piguet
Ginny Wright explains how to ask the right questions – and what's next for the house of the Royal Oak.
Quill & Pad
Fabergé Pearl Egg: The First Imperial-Class Egg In Nearly 100 Years - Reprise
Celebrating its “rebirth” at Baselworld 2015, Fabergé introduced the first egg of the new era as a unique piece: the incredible Pearl Egg, “the first egg created in the ‘imperial class' since 1917.”
Quill & Pad
8 Picks From The Ineichen ‘Precious Blues’ Auction On April 23, 2022 Featuring Delectable Rarities By De Bethune, Alain Silberstein, And Many Other Independents
There is a watch auctioneer focusing on bringing beauty into auctions rather than chasing world records by concentrating on (the) two highly popular brands: Ineichen based in Zurich. And here Elizabeth Doerr highlights eight timepieces in its next auction that she thinks we should be paying special attention to when others might not be. Ineichen's Precious Blues auction takes place on April 23, 2022.
SJX Watches
Highlights: “The Nevadian Collector”, a Spectacular Single-Owner Collection of Patek Philippe
The flagship event at Sotheby’s upcoming spring watch auction in Hong Kong is The Nevadian Collector. Focused on historically significant Patek Philippe references, the compact but valuable sale is the closing act of a notable collector based in California. Having started collecting over 30 years ago, the “Nevadian” became a major figure in vintage watch collecting after selling his media business in the mid 1990s. Now in his eighties, the gentleman’s collection was once some 400 watches, a number that has been gradually pared down in recent years. It included several timepieces that set priced records in recent years, including the ref. 2499 signed “Asprey” that sold for almost CHF4 million in 2018 and another ref. 2499 signed “Tiffany & Co.” that sold for the equivalent of US$3 million later that year. Another of the Nevadian’s watches: the crisp, third series ref. 2499 in pink gold with a “Tiffany & Co.” dial that sold for HK$23.5m, or US$3.00 million, in 2018, becoming the most expensive watch sold at auction in Asia that year Made up of only 40 lots – but with a cumulative value of US$15 million at the low estimates – the sale takes place in the evening of April 25, 2022, starting at 8:00 pm (GMT +8). Bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The upcoming auction represents the last of the Nevadian’s watches, but considering the depth and breath of the collection, the line up unsurprisingly encompasses many spectacular, import...
Hodinkee
Inside The Design: Lust For the Must
Cartier has a runaway hit with the Must, the youngest and coolest watch to come out of Paris in a long time. Here, our design columnist explains why there's more to the simple aesthetic than meets the eye.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New-And-Improved G-Shock 'CasiOak' (Live Pics & Pricing)
The power of the sun, on the wrist of my arm.
Deployant
Review: The New A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in Titanium
A. Lange & Söhne presents the new Odysseus in titanium, the brand's first limited edition sports watch and it's first watch in titanium.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Spring Forward With The Rolex Datejust 31mm Floral Dials
Come for the lovely dials, stay for the flowery puns.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: Trend Report, The Year So Far
A message from the vintage desk: An update on trends and what to watch going forward.
Time+Tide
The new 36.5mm Grand Seiko SBGW289 has fans rejoicing at the possibilities beyond this kira-zuri cherry blossom limited edition
When a compact and classically dimensioned watch is debuted, a tiny-wrister bat signal is lit high in the sky for me to rush and cover it. Look, in journalism we have to remain objective, but this release hits home for me on a personal level and, based on your comments on social media, for many … ContinuedThe post The new 36.5mm Grand Seiko SBGW289 has fans rejoicing at the possibilities beyond this kira-zuri cherry blossom limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Conversation Between Michael Clerizo And Scott Lenga About ‘The Watchmakers’ At Watches And Wonders 2022 (Video)
Michael Clerizo sat down at Watches and Wonders 2022 to talk to the watch world at large about Scott Lenga’s just-published book, 'The Watchmakers,' the true story of how Scott's father Harry used watchmaking as a survival skill as a Jewish prisoner in a Nazi labor camp. Here we have the full discussion on video.
Hodinkee
The Bamford × Peanuts “Joe Preppy” GMT | Limited Edition For HODINKEE
The Bamford × Peanuts “Joe Preppy” GMT | Limited Edition For HODINKEE
SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Dual-Crown “5th Anniversary”
Founded in 2017, French brand Baltic quickly found success with its affordable, retro watches. The brand is now celebrating its fifth anniversary with a few commemorative editions in the pipeline, the first being the Aquascaphe Dual-Crown “5th Anniversary”, a retro “Super Compressor” style dive watch dressed up in streetwear colours of the 1990s, the decade during which the thirty-something founders of the brand grew up. Initial thoughts A micro-brand that got its start via crowdfunding, Baltic’s growth is a testament to its commercially-sensible products. Its watches are amongst the best propositions when it comes to retro watches. Baltic’s watches are all eminently affordable, with just enough details to give them a tiny bit more appeal than their prices would suggest. By the same token, the Dual-Crown is an appealing watch. Compact and affordable, the Dual-Crown was only available in muted colours to date. In fact, Baltic hasn’t launched a special edition of the model to date (and the brand does a lot of special editions), making the anniversary model unusual. The anniversary model continues where the original Dual-Crown left off, which is colour, or lack thereof. For anyone who liked the original but wanted something more lively, this is it. The anniversary Dual-Crown is only differs from the standard model in subtle ways, perhaps too subtle. As a result it does not have the strongly coherent aesthetic of Baltic’s other watches, which are clearly an...
Deployant
Armchair Picks: Peter’s 3 of the best from W&W; 2022
We come to the end of our armchair picks from this year's W&W;, and here is our Chief Editor rounding up with his top 3 picks from the shows.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Automatic collection upgrades one of the best-priced field watches around
Even if you’ve only been into watches for a short amount of time, the chances are pretty high that you’ve heard about the Hamilton Khaki Field. With 100 years experience of making watches for the military, Hamilton certainly know how to make an attractive, capable field watch that can handle everything from survival situations to … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Automatic collection upgrades one of the best-priced field watches around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.