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Quill & Pad
Close to 120 years after Abraham-Louis Breguet patented the tourbillon, master watchmaker Alfred Helwig (1886-1974) created a “flying” tourbillon at the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte. The flying tourbillon became somewhat characteristic of Glashütte and lives on in a few very special watches today. Who was Alfred Helwig? Find out here.
Time+Tide
Random acts of kindness are all very well. But at Time+Tide, we prefer our gestures of mind-blowing generosity to come in a horological format. From rock stars to comedians and actors to athletes, the moral of this story is simple: work hard, amass your fortune then spread the love by upgrading the wrists of mankind, … ContinuedThe post From Bruno Mars to Jay-Z: celebrities’ most staggering acts of watch-giving generosity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Some Friday Wind Downs are long, some have a point, and others are just the last thing standing between me and a cold, cold beer. That’s a dangerous place to be at the best of times - in Australia we talk about “murdering” a beer, we don’t mess around - but after a week like this, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sorry, it’s short this week, I’m thirsty … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Petermann Bédat is a young company comprising a youthful duo of independent watchmakers by the names of Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat. Their first watch features a deadbeat style of seconds created with the help of grand master Dominique Renaud. Our friends at The Watches TV hosted Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat in their Geneva studio to find out more. Watch their talk here!
Hodinkee
The latest fashion watches from the fashion icon, and watch lover.
Time+Tide
Unimatic’s tough Italian exterior gets the touch of Japanese designer Mihara Yasuhiro in a marriage of crisp white Cerakote™ and extreme minimalism. Unimatic, based in Milan, has a strong reputation for their no-nonsense tough 40mm tool watches, with their bold cases and stubby-perfect 49mm lug-to-lug length. With the Unimatic x Mihara Yasuhiro they have managed … ContinuedThe post Get ready, one more sleep till you can order the ultimate unisex summer watch, the Unimatic x Mihara Yasuhiro U1-MY2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Once an American watchmaker that was a global giant, Hamilton is today a Swiss brand best known for its value-proposition, vintage-inspired watches – and providing watches for several Hollywood films. Its speciality is exemplified by watches like the Khaki Field Mechanical, a robust, military-style watch that costs less than US$500. Hamilton has just unveiled a new collection of affordable pilot’s watches, the Khaki Aviation Converter. The line up is made up of three watches – time and date, GMT, and chronograph – all equipped with a slide-rule bezel for cockpit calculations and conversions. From left: the base model automatic, the GMT, and the chronograph in two variants Initial thoughts As with the most of the watches in the Khaki collection, the Converter is appealing in design and no doubt solidly, if simply, constructed. While it might not be the most original in design – the slide-rule bezel is synonymous with Breitling’s Navitimer but used by many brands – the Converter is strong value. Starting at US$995 for the automatic and rising to US$2,145 for chronograph, the collection is a good entry into watches featuring a slide-rule bezel. The bezel features double-row knurling for good grip The generic design aside, it is heartening to see that attention has been paid to the details. With the large, luminous hands and contrasting colours, legibility appears good. The movements are visible through the case back, something that can be captivating for a beg...
WatchAdvice
Early this year, Breitling announced a series of new watches for 2020. In it was the revival of the Superocean Heritage ‘57. This particular model stood out for us and now we finally have the chance to go hands-on. This particular model, reference A10370161C1X1, is part of Breitling’s Capsules collection where they pay tribute to the 1950’s and 1960’s laidback surfing lifestyles. Breitling drew design inspirations from the songs created by musicians such as Beach Boys, Jay and Dan and the Ventures. Reference A10370161C1X1 CEO of Breitling, Mr. Georges Kern said “The Capsule Collections let us tell some of our brand’s most inspiring stories while we produce some remarkably unique watches for a limited amount of time. With the Superocean Heritage ’57 Capsule Collection, we’ve focused on the relaxed Southern California fun-in-the-sun culture that defined an era. The surfing itself in the 1950s and 1960s is at the heart of our storytelling here, but those times offered so much more: the great music, the amazing cars, and the almost spiritual connection to freedom found on endless sandy beaches and in the search for the perfect wave.” We chose to go hands on with the blue dial SOH ’57 (reference A10370161C1X1) as it caught our eye. Reference A10370161C1X1 Breitling SOH ’57 Case: SOH ‘57 comes in a 42mm size casing and the case is constructed from stainless steel. The dial without the concave bezel is measured at just 38mm!. With a thickness of just u...
SJX Watches
Unveiled quietly in July and destined only for a handful of Asian markets to start with – and then worldwide from November 2020 – the Tudor Royal is a lightly retro wristwatch with an integrated bracelet, almost a luxury-sports watch, but for decidedly entry-level money. Like many of Tudor’s more affordable watches, the Royal Day-Date is powered by a Sellita movement, as opposed to the in-house movements found in the upper-end models. But the Royal still boasts the brand’s typically excellent quality, especially of the case and bracelet. The design of the Royal, however, is a mixed bag. Initial thoughts The Royal is good enough that I hope it will be gently tweaked, which would make it outstanding; it could be so much better. In fact, the Royal is Tudor’s most paradoxical watch. The quality and wearability are good, some details are great, but the bezel and dial are both old fashioned and dull. Nevertheless, the Royal is, like nearly all Tudor watches, excellent value for money. Priced at about US$2,400, the Royal has an Oyster case that’s excellent in both construction, finish, and design. And it provides another alternative for those who want a solid Tudor watch that doesn’t look like a sports watch. The wide, flat face where it meets the bracelet is perhaps its most attractive feature The bracelet is a simple but robust construction that integrates well into the case And the watch wears well. Although the Day Date is wide at 41 mm (there are several smalle...
Time+Tide
It’s been a great year for new watches, and one of the biggest contributors to this slew of attractive wristwatches is TAG Heuer, who continue their run of strong releases in 2020. The latest release from the La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker is the TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, adding another feather to the Carrera cap after the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Originally just a model name for the bestselling watch of the brand MDM (short for Montre des Montres), Hublot got off the ground with one of the “it” watches of the 1980s that a first in combining yellow gold with a rubber strap. The brand is now 40 years old and a global success thanks to a late-in-life rejuvenation. To commemorate the occasion – which chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe hinted at in January – the brand has unveiled the sleek and simple Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary modelled on the original Hublot wristwatch of 1980. Minimalist in style, the anniversary watch sticks to the restrained look of the maritime-inspired original – hublot is French for “porthole” – but is substantially larger to cater to modern tastes. And like the original it is available in 18k yellow gold – combining the precious metal and rubber was a novelty in 1980 – but also in titanium or black ceramic. The 1980 model in steel (left) and the anniversary edition Initial thoughts While modern-day Hublot watches are often maximalist and sometimes over the top, the anniversary Classic Fusion is the opposite, a look that works well with the case and bezel. The 1980 original was a compact, pared-back watch that was at odds with the fashionable watches of the era – think two-tone Cartier Santos or Ebel – and proof that less is more. The dial of the remake sticks closely to the original, with a white-on-black date that is a welcome improvement. But the addition of ...
Time+Tide
Now that Rolex has released watches and ended that dreadful rumour that they were sitting 2020 out, the important work begins. Nicknaming them. The one that has perhaps caused the most contention, is this one, the Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold. We’re going to tell you everything you need to know about it … ContinuedThe post What nickname has Instagram settled on for the Rolex Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hublot is known around the world for their larger, bold designs. Some collections literally have the word bold in their nomenclature. While this reference does not, the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Green Saxem is definitely one of their boldest designs yet – both technically and aesthetically. The case Hublot has made a huge investment … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Green Saxem appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Gombessa, 700 Sharks, and top secret dive watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
“In the past year, despite a global pandemic, social unrest, and economic catastrophe, [Ramachandran] successfully found homes for thousands of neglected watches.” Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably).
Time+Tide
As you may have seen here and here, we have been taking a closer look at the latest chapter in the TAG Heuer Carrera collection that sees a total redesign of one of the brand’s most historically important families. But within this new collection, the TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph green dial catches the eye … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The olive green dial of this TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph is incredible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Oris has been coming out with some fantastic watches in 2020, including Momotaro and Hölstein Edition. Now they have unveiled another stunner, the Oris Roberto Clemente Limited Edition. Oris has partnered up with the Roberto Clemente Foundation, which is a humanitarian organisation named in honour of the great Puerto Rican professional baseball right fielder; Roberto Enrique Clemente Walker. This special piece was created to honour the late Roberto Clemente and is released to the public on September 9th 2020, which is Roberto Clemente day. Roberto Clemente Oris designed the Roberto Clemente Limited Edition using the Big Crown Pointer date as the base model. Oris has been making the pointer date model since 1938, with the Big Crown Pointer Date model having deep roots in the Swiss brands history as well. The Oris Roberto Clemente Limited Edition is released in a 3000 limited run, to honour Roberto Clemente’s career hits in his Baseball career. So why did Oris create this timepiece? Roberto Clemente was more than just a Baseball player. Born in 1934, Roberto faced many battles, including discrimination because of the colour of his skin. However, this would only make him more motivated and determined to prove everyone wrong. Roberto conducting a baseball clinic for local children in his native Puerto Rico Roberto would go onto become one of the greatest Baseball players the game has seen, which saw him become a Baseball Hall of Famer. Roberto Clemente has won two Wor...
Time+Tide
Bulgari has revived a late ’90s classic with the new Bulgari Aluminium collection this year. A great blend of daily and luxury wear, these lightweight watches pack a heavy punch. While watch designs can be quite homogenous in a traditional industry, the new Bulgari Aluminium 2020 models are welcome revivals with their distinct Bulgari aesthetic. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The lightweight luxury of the new Bulgari Aluminium collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The TAG Heuer Monaco remains to this day one of the most famous watches associated with racing, and one worth adding to your collection.
Hodinkee
Updated Submariners, colorful Oysters, and lightweight sport watches for summer.
Time+Tide
For some, the idea of ‘luxury quartz’ is a complete contradiction. Since the decimation of the mechanical watch industry upon its widespread release, quartz movement technology has never shaken off that stigma that draws dirty looks from watch enthusiasts around the world. The truth is not as simple as a hero and villain, however. Once … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 is a blue/black abyss for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
It perhaps seems like overkill to “celebrate” an anniversary like 85 years, but when you’re a wristwatch as old and as evergreen as the Reverso, it somehow becomes appropriate. In honor of the long and successful career of the horological icon, we took a brief look back over the 85 years of this truly authentic timepiece, an original in the world of watches, from 1931 until 2016.
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin (UN) excels at excellent in-house movements, even for its most affordable, time-only watches. Its watches cases, on the other hand, are typically straightforward – they do the job, but are far from fancy. Just launched at Geneva Watch Days, the Blast Tourbillon is a step in the fancier-case direction. Fronted by a strikingly facetted – and contrast finished – upper plate, the case of the Blast is novel without being too much (though it is a bit much combined with the “X” skeleton movement). And the Blast also sits surprisingly well on the wrist despite its large size. But true to UN’s technically-oriented watchmaking, the Blast is not merely new livery for an old movement. Instead the UN-172 movement within is a new calibre featuring an extensively skeletonised construction – that retains the “X” motif the brand is overly fond of – as well as the signature full-kit silicon oscillator. Initial thoughts The Blast combines an interesting case with an elaborate movement – automatic, skeletonised, and a tourbillon featuring a silicon escapement and hairspring – for not very much money as such things go. With the base model retailing for US$44,000 for the base model, the Blast is priced well. The case is the highlight – finished well and wearable despite its size. The Blast is a big watch at 45 mm in diameter, though it feels notably slimmer than its 13 mm height, partly due to the case height-to-diameter ratio. The fit is good for a wat...
Deployant
Girard-Perregaux releases two new watches, the Free Bridge and Free Bridge Infinity. The Infinity Edition features black DLC case and limited to 88 pieces.
Hodinkee
The renowned expert in vintage and contemporary watches will discuss collecting in the time of COVID-19.
SJX Watches
I often get asked by family and friends: “Why vintage Seiko?” I can trace my interest in this niche hobby to my childhood, coupled with the fact that I instinctively avoid the mainstream. Growing up in Saudi Arabia in the early 1980s, Japanese technology was found in the majority of products. When it came to watches, there were two market leaders: Casio and Seiko. Everyone at school, myself included, had a Casio of some sort. Seiko watches, on the other hand, were worn by the working professional. I remember clearly being in awe of my headmaster’s watch. It was a Seiko that had a golden-yellow face with a sub-dial. I thought to myself that his success and authority must have come from the watch. I wanted that glorious watch that gave the headmaster his power. Fast forward 25 years to 2017, and I noticed myself subconsciously buying retro Japanese technology, watching episodes of anime series Grendizer and looking for a vintage, yellow-dial Seiko watch – cue my pursuit of vintage Seiko and Casio. The first vintage Seiko I bought was a yellow-dial, all-original ref. 6139-6005 “Pogue” – named after the American astronaut who wore one – from a well-known Seiko seller on Instagram. I had waited almost a year for a Pogue in original condition at a decent price, which frustrated me. After that, I wanted to jump the queue, so to speak, while being under the radar as I knew I couldn’t compete with many of the more serious Seiko collectors. So I hatched a plan: ...
Time+Tide
While Grand Seiko has more and more collectors and watch buyers on their radar, with a community of fans growing each day, there is always more to discover when it comes to this esteemed Japanese watch manufacturer. While visiting the Nature of Time Exhibition, going through each of its eight stations and speaking with staff … ContinuedThe post 6 things you may not know about Grand Seiko – Part 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Seiko Presage is the sharp alternative between everyday Seiko and the mythical big brother Grand Seiko, with a price range coinciding with the Prospex range and an emphasis on dressy references with a classic Japanese twist. During the last couple of years, Presage has mainly been known for their very popular Cocktail Time series, with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series is yet another competitively priced collection for dial fetishists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller is back – pairing Yellow and Everose versions with Oysterflex bracelets for the first time. Oysterflex has become a fan favorite due to its tough, sporty, and adjustable build. The complicated cosmopolitan of the Rolex catalogue with this new configuration becomes a bit more casual and approachable in terms of look … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Rolex Sky-Dweller on Oysterflex for the first time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While best known for its mechanical aviator’s chronographs, Breitling has a diverse history of quartz watches for professionals, most notably the multi-function Aerospace and the Emergency with a built-in distress beacon. The latest in Breitling’s range of quartz instrument watches is the sporty and casual Endurance Pro. The quintet of watches share the same black dial and carbon composite case, but with the dial flange and strap in five bold colours. While the colours are fun, the utility of the watch is taken care of with a chronograph and bidirectional rotating bezel that can be used as a solar compass. Initial thoughts As a sports watch, the Endurance Pro gets many elements right. For one, it is notably lightweight despite its large size. The case is made of Breitlight, an proprietary carbon composite – carbon fibres within a polymer – that is three times lighter than titanium, making it unobtrusive on the wrist. Second, while mechanical movements have more appeal for enthusiasts, a quartz calibre more practical for a sports watch. Compared with a balance wheel, a quartz oscillator is less susceptible to external influences such as shock, magnetism, and orientation. And a quartz sports watch is convenient, it can be picked up and worn right away, with no winding or adjustment necessary. Even though the Endurance Pro is the most affordable quartz watch made by Breitling (and also its lowest-priced men’s watch), the price tag is still US$3,000, which is exp...
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