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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

MICRO MONDAYS: BND Watches show less is more with a minimalist take on the tool watch Time+Tide
Jul 18, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: BND Watches show less is more with a minimalist take on the tool watch

The elephant in the room needs to be addressed, are we reaching Peak Retro? Do you feel a pang of frustration by yet another vintage-inspired diver popping up in your Watchville feed, with a fumé-ish dial, sapphire-tough bezel insert and killer lume trying way too hard to capture your heart? Well, I admit that feeling … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: BND Watches show less is more with a minimalist take on the tool watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Montblanc Star Legacy Metamorphosis & Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon: The Fancier Side Of Montblanc Quill & Pad
Montblanc Star Legacy Metamorphosis & Jul 18, 2021

Montblanc Star Legacy Metamorphosis & Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon: The Fancier Side Of Montblanc

The new Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon and Star Legacy Metamorphosis are both watches that might convince anyone that Montblanc makes only high-end mega creations. They are standout pieces from a brand normally known for more accessible luxury in the watch world. But these timepieces are incredible examples of high horology and worth further inspection.

David Candaux Introduces the Streamlined DC7 Genesis SJX Watches
Jul 16, 2021

David Candaux Introduces the Streamlined DC7 Genesis

David Candaux established his eponymous brand with the 1740 Half Hunter, a watch with several exotic features that made it decidedly unconventional, especially for a watchmaker located in the traditional heart of Swiss watchmaking, the village of Le Solliat in the Vallee de Joux. Now Mr Candaux is following up with something more concise, the DC7 Genesis. The DC7 still preserves many of the novel elements of the original model – like the inclined-balance tourbillon – but presents them in a streamlined manner. Initial thoughts For someone who appreciated the technical merits of David Candaux’s first wristwatch, but found it too fancy, the DC7 is ideal. The DC7 remains unusual in both design and construction, but inches closer to the conventional end of the scale. The cleaner and simpler design make the DC7 easier to digest. Though streamlined, the DC7 still retains the watchmaker’s signature features, including the vertically-symmetrical case, telescopic crown, and inclined-balance tourbillon. More broadly, the watch is composed of inclined surfaces – the dial and movement bridges are both inclined, making it instantly recognisable as a David Candaux creation. At the same time, the movement is finished differently from the original model, and slightly less intricate, but still appears to be done to a similarly high standard. Importantly, the simpler mechanics make it more affordable. At about US$150,000 in titanium, the DC7 is not quite a value buy, but it’...

What Is A Resonance Movement? The Watches TV And Armin Strom Explain (Video) Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Explain Video Jul 14, 2021

What Is A Resonance Movement? The Watches TV And Armin Strom Explain (Video)

The Watches TV goes deep into explaining a resonance movement in an easy way. The quick answer to the question of what resonance is in horological terms is that it encompasses two independent escapements in one watch that influence each other to average out timing errors. This video brings horological resonance to life and makes it easy to understand.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-94 Patrouille de France SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Jul 14, 2021

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-94 Patrouille de France

Bell & Ross has long supplied timekeepers to various French military and police units, ranging from the bomb disposal team of the national civil defence agency to the tactical unit of the National Gendarmerie, GIGN. The brand was recently tapped to become the official watchmaker to the Patrouille de France, the famed aeronautics team of the Armée de l’Air et de l’Espace, the French Air and Space Force. To inaugurate the partnership, Bell & Ross has unveiled the BR 03-94 Patrouille de France, a limited edition designed in collaboration with the nine pilots of the aerobatics team. Cased in matte black ceramic, the chronograph has a dial in the colours of the French flag, along with the team logo at six o’clock. It is a 500-piece limited edition available to the public, while team members of the Patrouille de France will be issued with the same watch, but powered by a quartz movement. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross has made a variety of air force-unit watches in the past, as have other brands. Breitling, for instance, recently debuted an edition dedicated to the Red Arrows, the aerobatics team of the Royal Air Force. The Patrouille de France edition, however, stands apart in an important aspect: the members of the Patrouille de France – nine pilots and 35 engineers – are actually kitted out with an almost-identical watch. Produced in a run of 100 watches, the official-issue team watch is identical to the civilian version featured here, but it has a quartz movement ...

The Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 is the first Tudor I’ve bought in over 5 years, these are the reasons why… Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 Jul 14, 2021

The Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 is the first Tudor I’ve bought in over 5 years, these are the reasons why…

I still clearly and plainly remember the day I first saw a Tudor Black Bay. It happened to be my first ever Basel. The year was 2012, and I should really paint a picture of the minutes leading up to the discovery. Because these were also quite memorable. They were the first moments ever spent … ContinuedThe post The Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 is the first Tudor I’ve bought in over 5 years, these are the reasons why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Brings Back the Langematik Perpetual SJX Watches
Casio ns like Jul 13, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Brings Back the Langematik Perpetual

One of the biggest surprises amongst A. Lange & Söhne’s mid-year launches is the return of the Langematik Perpetual (the other being a Handwerkskunst in an unusual rectangular case). Launched two decades ago, the Langematik Perpetual is the brand’s longest-lived model – powered by the same movement from the start – though it’s been gradually phased out. Having discontinued the gold and platinum versions, Lange then introduced a limited edition in Honey Gold in 2019, and nothing else – until now. The Langematik Perpetual returns back in style as a pair – with a dark blue dial in either a white or pink gold case. Initial thoughts The reintroduction of the Langematik Perpetual is unexpected, especially given the two-year gap between this and the last version. In fact, that already seemed like a farewell model – it was a limited edition in Honey Gold, the proprietary alloy Lange usually reserved for special occasions, like the recent 175th Anniversary “Homage to F.A. Lange”. But the revival of Langematik Perpetual makes sense from a historical perspective, since 2021 marks the 20th anniversary of the model, which was the brand’s first perpetual calendar and a special one at the time of its launch, being the first perpetual calendar wristwatch with an oversized date display. At the same time, it’s heartening to see the return of an exceptionally fine, automatic movement. The cal. L922.1 “Sax-O-Mat” has an off-centre, almost-micro rotor that is in...

A. Lange & Söhne Unveils the Saxonia Thin Aventurine in Pink Gold SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 13, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Unveils the Saxonia Thin Aventurine in Pink Gold

Three months after Watches & Wonders 2021 (where it debuted the Triple Split in pink gold amongst others), A. Lange & Söhne is now back with more new releases, as is now the norm with watch fairs having gone online. Of the trio of new launches, the Saxonia Thin is the simplest, but no less striking. Clad in lively, blue aventurine glass and pink gold, the watch has a rich, sparkly aesthetic quite antithetical to the fuss-free style usually associated with the German watchmaker. Initial thoughts While flourishes like the aventurine-glass dial are uncommon for Lange in general, the sparkly glass dial is not new. In fact, the material was first used in the white gold Saxonia Thin back in 2017. The brand followed up with the same but with a black aventurine-glass dial last December, and then the pair of Little Lange 1 Moon Phase earlier this year. That’s four models with aventurine glass dials in as many years. The new model is a first, in that it matches the blue aventurine-glass dial with a pink gold case, giving the watch a warm aesthetic not found in earlier versions, or even the broader catalogue where the combination of pink gold and blue is found only on the recent Triple Split. This is no doubt a good news for collectors that already have everything from the brand and want something different. Still, the frequency of aventurine-glass inevitably chips away at its uniqueness. One nitpick I have about the watch is personal – I find the Saxonia Thin too wide and f...

A. Lange & Söhne Revives the Cabaret Tourbillon in Handwerkskunst Style SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 13, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Revives the Cabaret Tourbillon in Handwerkskunst Style

Easily the most surprising of the three recent releases by A. Lange & Söhne is something unconventional but familiar – the brand’s flagship rectangular watch that was first released in 2008, but now dressed up in artisanal finery. The Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is seventh in the eponymous line characterised by artisanal decoration – handwerkskunst translates as “craftsmanship” – and features a hand-engraved lozenge pattern on the front and back, along with a fired enamel dial. Initial Impressions The Cabaret Tourbillon was quite a statement at its launch, being the first wristwatch with a hacking tourbillon – pull the crown and the entire tourbillon assembly stopped – which allowed for more precise setting of the time. But despite its merits, the original Cabaret Tourbillon was never a hot seller, so its revival is likely a one-off. The return of the model is certainly unexpected, since the Cabaret left the catalogue several years ago. The Cabaret quietly faded into obscurity, and the current Lange lineup is focused on round watches. Largely similar in style, but far more elaborate in decoration, the new Handwerkskunst edition is a fitting tribute to the discontinued model. Unlike earlier Handwerkskunst editions that were flashier, the Cabaret is executed more conservatively, with the decorative flourishes typical of Handwerkskunst less apparent. The watch is clearly meant to be appreciated close-up, with the knowledge that the geometric pattern ...

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak 34 mm in Black Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Jul 12, 2021

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak 34 mm in Black Ceramic

For its second round of new launches for 2021 – after the headline-grabbing Black Panther watch – Audemars Piguet (AP) unveiled Royal Oak models in a range of sizes and complications. The novelties are, in short, gorgeous variations of the brand’s octagonal watch. One of the most notable is the smallest amongst the new models. For the first time, AP is applying the full-ceramic treatment to a smaller Royal Oak. The Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm Black Ceramic is no doubt good news for enthusiasts who want a more compact but unusual version of the simple Royal Oak (availability notwithstanding). Polished and brushed ceramic Initial thoughts While ceramic has long been synonymous with makers of high-end sports watches like AP, it was used sparingly for the Royal Oak, until four years ago when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic made its debut. But the all-ceramic Royal Oak models since then have been complicated, including a white-ceramic perpetual calendar or the skeletonised double balance. That makes the 34 mm model in black ceramic a pretty big deal – it’s the first base-model Royal Oak in ceramic. But being a Royal Oak, it still feels familiar, which is a good thing if you like the Royal Oak as I do. Despite being amongst the simplest of Royal Oaks, the new 34 mm model is striking. The pink gold accents on the bezel and dial create the right amount of contrast to break up the monochromatic ceramic, giving the black ceramic a touch of luxe. Consequent...

Why Romain Gauthier Is The Logical Heir Apparent To Philippe Dufour – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jul 11, 2021

Why Romain Gauthier Is The Logical Heir Apparent To Philippe Dufour – Reprise

It’s no secret: GaryG is an immense admirer of Philippe Dufour. Part of greatness, of course, is leaving a legacy; not only through one’s works, but in the skills and inspiration passed on to those who follow, which Dufour has liberally done. But who, if anyone, will history regard as the lineal heir to the Dufour tradition? Gary has reached what may seem a counterintuitive conclusion: Romain Gauthier.

Bovet Fleurier Miss Audrey Sweet Art: Real Sugar Crystals On The Dial Glisten Like Tiny Colorful Pearls (No Licking!) Quill & Pad
Bovet Jul 10, 2021

Bovet Fleurier Miss Audrey Sweet Art: Real Sugar Crystals On The Dial Glisten Like Tiny Colorful Pearls (No Licking!)

While its convertible Amadeo case allows the Bovet Miss Audrey watch to be easily converted to a pendant or desk clock, the focus of Sweet Art is its incredible sugar crystal dial. Joshua Munchow was skeptical when he first heard about the sugar being used but the results speak for themselves, and it is hard to argue that the dials aren’t indeed gorgeously crafted. You must see this for yourself.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Canvas for Hokusai SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Canvas Jul 9, 2021

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Canvas for Hokusai

Debuted in 1931, the ubiquitous reversible watch is marking its 90th anniversary this year. Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has rolled out several special editions for the occasion, from a digital hours to the uber Reverso with four faces. But the latest anniversary edition is pared-down in mechanics, but elaborately crafted. JLC turned to its enamel workshop for the Reverso Tribute Enamel, a time-only watch with both the dial and back decorated in grand feu enamel. Most remarkable is the miniature painting on the reverse of the case, which is a miniature version of Kirifuri Waterfall, a 19th century woodblock print by Hokusai, the Japanese artist most famous for The Great Wave off Kanagawa, a print depicting roaring waves with Mount Fuji in the distance (which JLC already put on the back of another Reverso three years ago). Initial thoughts The Reverso Tribute Enamel is a evidently a good looking watch. Simple on the front, looking similar to the standard model, the watch is discreetly captivating, thanks to the green, wavy guilloche dial that evokes the serene motion of the flowing water. And hidden until the case is flipped over is a miniature enamel painting that’s even more outstanding. The brand’s miniature enamelling has long ranked amongst the best in the industry – it was one of the first to establish an in-house enamel studio – and this watch shows that JLC has preserved its prowess. The back is a near-exact recreation of the original woodblock printing by Hokusa...