Hodinkee
Hey, HODINKEE!: Winding Weirdness, Watch Wear Wisdom, And Heirloom Watches, Part Deux
What's the kid going to want, twenty years down the road?
22,310 articles · 2,164 videos found · page 645 of 816
Hodinkee
What's the kid going to want, twenty years down the road?
Time+Tide
I’ve got to admit, whenever I see 60th or 140th Anniversary in a press release my first thought is again? I mean this has been a celebration without end but, to be fair, I am all for it because Seiko and Grand Seiko have been serving up some quality releases within this anniversary series. Today is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko SPB259 & SSA445 140th Anniversary Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow might look a bit whimsical at first, but it delivers joy in a very high-end way. Hublot has quite a reputation to uphold when it comes to rainbow watches after having launching its first in 2017, and this new watch feels like the brand has upped its game substantially. So embrace your guilty pleasure and find your pot of gold!
Deployant
TAG Heuer revives an icon, adding 3 new watches to the Aquaracer Professional 300 family, including the return of the Night Diver.
SJX Watches
Launched earlier this year as its new flagship perpetual calendar wristwatch (replacing the venerable Langematik Perpetual), the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (L1 QP) appears to be a simplified version of the same watch with a tourbillon from 2012. But it is actually entirely different. Though the L021.3 inside the L1 QP borrows from the architecture of an existing calibre, it has been extensively reengineered and substantially upgraded, as is the norm for Lange. And despite the new mechanics, the L1 QP retains the assuringly familiar face of the Lange 1. Initial thoughts The L1 QP was long awaited for the simple reason that is makes a good idea – a calendar cleverly displayed in the distinctive layout of the Lange 1 dial – far more affordable than it was. When it was first launched, it was combined with a tourbillon, which lifted the price to well over US$300,000. Now the same calendar layout is available in a watch priced at about US$100,000. That’s still a lot of money, but within the ballpark for a perpetual calendar from a high-end brand. Comparable watches like the recent Patek Philippe ref. 5236P cost about the same. So price wise, the L1 QP is acceptable, even reasonable value, because it is an excellent perpetual calendar. The display is unique, but strongly functional. The crucial bits of information, namely date and month, are easily readable. Add to that the trademark, asymmetric layout of the Lange 1, and the result is a display that excels in both clarit...
SJX Watches
Following the recent return of platinum to Panerai’s line up, the brand is continuing with precious metals, but this time with a far more elaborate movement boasting a perpetual calendar and GMT. Despite its complications, the Luminor Perpetual Calendar – available as the Goldtech PAM 742 or Platinumtech PAM 715 – is smartly designed, with a clean dial that’s typical of Panerai, clean enough it resembles as a day-date Panerai at a glance. Initial thoughts Arriving in a Panerai wristwatch for the very first time (though there was the co-branded Panerai-Ferrari FER015 of 2007), the perpetual calendar was only incorporated in one other Panerai timepiece, the uber-complicated planetarium clock made in 2014 to commemorate Gallileo Galilei. While simpler, the perpetual calendar wristwatch doesn’t disappoint, with its concise calendar display. While the complication is now common, few brands can boast calendar displays that are both distinctive and legible – Moser being one of the few. Perhaps more important for Panerai than any other brand, given the simplicity of its trademark design, the streamlined display means the Luminor Perpetual Calendar still looks very much like a typical Panerai. Unlike the recent time-only Platinumtech Luminor with blue hands, the Perpetual Calendar has pink gold hands that blend into the olive background better As the dial being the familiar Panerai design, it falls to the case materials to distinguish Luminor Perpetual from the...
Time+Tide
A blink of the eye is usually judged to take one tenth of a second to complete. In the 100m freestyle, Kyle Chalmers missed out on Olympic gold by considerably less than that. Arch-rival Caeleb Dressel of the United States pipped the Aussie swimmer to the finish by just 0.06 seconds. After reviewing the race … ContinuedThe post Olympic swimmer Kyle Chalmers: “This silver medal means so much more than my gold” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Certain days in your life are impossible to forget. Some bring joy and happiness to your heart, like the day you get married or the birth of your first child. Other days, well, other days bring an immense amount of sadness. September 11th is that day for me and millions of other New Yorkers. On … ContinuedThe post Auction: The William Wood 9/11 Time For Heroes will help those who risk life and limb in the line of duty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Everything you need to know about vintage Rolex Subs.
Time+Tide
“I’ve always had a fascination with timepieces. As a DJ, back in the day, most of the records I bought didn’t have BPMs (beats per minutes) on them and, when you’re mixing, you need to know what they are. So you’d go to your watch and set your second hand to work out the record’s … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: DJ Carl Cox reveals why he made a watch with Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of IWC’s signature wristwatch lines – the other being the Portugieser – is the Pilot’s Watch, a collection descended from the timepieces dating to the earliest days of aviation. Popular for its functional styling and general affordability, the Pilot’s Watch collection is regularly updated – IWC revamped the range in 2016, 2019, and again this year – and diverse. There are two threads running through IWC’s modern-day Pilot’s Watch collection that connect to the brand’s historical aviator’s watches: the smaller “Mark” watches typically associated with the British Royal Air Force (RAF) and the oversized “B-Uhr” made for the German air force of the Second World War. Big pilot and small pilot – Mark IX and B-uhr The origins IWC’s history in aviator’s watches started the Special Pilot’s Watch ref. 436, now widely known as the “Mark IX”. Conceived by the two sons of Ernst Jakob Homberger, the then-owner of IWC, the Mark IX was unveiled in 1936. Homberger’s sons were both licensed pilots and understood the features required for good pilot’s watch, resulting in style that is now synonymous with the pilot’s watch genre. IWC was not the only maker of pilot’s watches during the period, though it was arguably the most successful since it continued to be a leading supplier of aviator’s timepieces for the next two decades. The Mark IX had a 38 mm case – extraordinarily oversized in an era when the standard man’s watch was a...
Time+Tide
Design is the language microbrands use best to communicate to collectors what it is they bring to the table. One microbrand who has done an amazing job of this is Brew Watch Company. Founded by designer Jonathan Ferrer in 2015, the company has released multiple collections, which feature attention-grabbing designs, that all focus on a … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Built for baristas, the Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes a welcome return appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Ain't no shame in the desk-diving game.
Quill & Pad
Bovet offers a new take on its formidable Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two, which the brand introduced in 2020. And when Bovet says that it reimagined the Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two, you can take that literally: the designers didn't exactly “improve” it, rather they took the same ingredients and served them up differently.
Quill & Pad
One of the big introductions of 2015 in the collector’s world was A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk Minute Repeater: a watch that both shows and chimes off the time using a “decimal” format of hours, tens of minutes, and minutes rather than the more traditional hours, quarters (15 minutes), and minutes. But the first decimal repeating wristwatch to reach the market wasn’t the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. It was by independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen.
Quill & Pad
No one buys a Corum Bubble to hide underneath a jacket sleeve; it's a watch that makes its presence felt. And with a luminous layered x-ray image of the human skull smiling out from under the bulbous sapphire crystal dome, the Bubble X-Ray is no exception.
Deployant
Overall we enjoyed the look and feel of the watch. It brought to mind Omega's Speedmaster and its calendar sibiling. Or even more distant, IWC's Ingenier or GST calendar. The contrasting materials and colors gave the watch a sporty look, and the size came with substantial wrist presence. The downside of course, is a rather hefty sports watch more suited for those with thicker wrists.
SJX Watches
Invented in 1860, the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is synonymous with Girard-Perregaux, a design unique and impressive enough it remains the watchmaker’s flagship movement after some one and a half centuries. Since its modern-day revival in 1981, the triple-bridge tourbillon has evolved to keep up with contemporary tastes, leading to variants like the Neo Bridges, which has sleek, arched bridges. Earlier this year, Girard-Perregaux unveiled the latest form of the Three Bridges, which does away with the base plate altogether, resulting in a floating, see-through movement. Now the brand has finally unveiled the luxe version of the watch, made even more striking in pink gold and black – the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges. Initial thoughts My opinion of the most recent iterations of the Three Bridges have been lukewarm, as I find the reworked designs tend to blur the original identity of the movement – the designs attempt modernity but don’t quite make it – but latest version changed my mind. The Flying Bridges is clean and streamlined, creating in a magnificent, unobscured view of its mechanics, one that’s enhanced with the right choice of colour and architecture. And the Flying Bridges is an interesting watch from a technical standpoint. The parts that make up the timekeeping train – barrel, gear train, and tourbillon-regulator – are arranged linearly and vertically, as the historical Three Bridges was. But now they supported by three horizon...
Quill & Pad
A collector got in touch with Martin Green about an engraving project on a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique that he was planning. What caught Martin's attention was that the collector was collaborating with an engraver very close to his home, so he seized the opportunity to follow the project as it unfolded. He shares his experiences and photos here.
Time+Tide
Are the bold, dazzling stone dials of yesteryear making a comeback? After the unexpected releases from H.Moser earlier this year it does seem like it, and I for one am applauding. I mean why be wrist-shy, when one of the main reasons for a wristwatch in 2021 isn’t to tell the time, but more as … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur dazzles with a trio of exotic dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Most view the Diver as a luxury sport watch, and it is, but we wanted to test the Diver in the conditions that it was engineered for.
Time+Tide
We’re a little bit over a week away from the start of the National Football League season, where 259 rookies will try to prove they belong among hundreds of hardened veterans. On the field, speed, agility and endurance will be the weapons of the day. Off of it, they battle the many potential perils of … ContinuedThe post The watch starter kit for NFL rookies – three watches for $32,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution recounts the story of Carl Friedrich Bucherer – the man, his legacy and the institution that was birthed out of his passion, which still guides it to this day.
Time+Tide
In a world where the daily struggles of life may seem too much to bear, sports can routinely provide a much needed escape. This escape carries with it even more importance for youth, as it provides a safe space that can protect them from an environment where violence, discrimination and poverty pervades. With this in … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: IWC’s true blue special edition supports the Laureus Foundation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Pano Collection by Glashütte Original has the weight of history, flair of modernity and heart of the incredibly talented artisans who build them. The latest addition to this extraordinary collection is a striking and visually stunning PanoInverse in platinum, which is limited to 25 pieces.
SJX Watches
Long an annual tradition for IWC – now in its 15th consecutive year in fact – the “Laureus Sport for Good” edition is back once again in its usual blue livery that echoes the emblem of the eponymous charity with the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition ‘Laureus Sport for Good’. Each annual Laureus edition sees IWC facelift one of its watches, from the classical Portofino to the sporty Pilot’s Watch, typically in a simple fashion with the addition of a blue dial – good enough but not quite great. This year the brand is doing something a bit more special with its entry-level aviator’s watch, which gets a blue ceramic case in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts As is typical of the IWC Pilot’s Watch, the new Laureus edition is simple, coherent and appealing. But it offers a bit more with the tone-on-tone case and dial, making it slightly more special than the standard Pilot’s Watches, or even past Laureus editions. Though IWC used a similar formula for the Laureus edition of two years ago – that had a polished, black ceramic case instead – the latest edition is tangibly better. For one, a blue ceramic case is rare, having been utilised by only a handful of watchmakers, and it also looks pretty cool. At the same time, the watch has been upgraded in technical terms. It houses the new, five-day cal. 32111, which is derived from the cal. 32115 first seen in the ultra-shock resistance Big Pilot XPL. Both are in turn modified versions of the cal. 32...
Time+Tide
I love brand anniversaries. They present the perfect opportunity for a brand to do something new or to celebrate their past by pulling something special out of their archives. In 2011, Sinn gave us the grey dialled, bi-compax, 358 chronograph to celebrate their 50th anniversary. With this year being their 60th, I couldn’t wait to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Sinn 103 Classic 12 celebrates the brand’s 60th with a reverse panda dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
To celebrate 160 years of watchmaking, Junghans announced new limited-edition models to honor their new slogan, “Creating time – yesterday, today and for generations to come.” Meister Gangreserve Edition 160 is inspired by Junghan’s 1950s mechanical timepiece with a unique and colorful power reserve indicator.
Time+Tide
In 1989, designer Emmanuel Gueit, who, at the time, worked for Audemars Piguet, presented a conceptual sketch that introduced a more robust take on the classic Genta designed Royal Oak. Its design, later realised for commercial release in 1993, came at a time where bigger and bulkier watches really spoke to a younger generation and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The 2021 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore reinvigorates the original design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Sinn releases a new 600-piece limited classic chronograph with a ceramic bezel insert to mark the 60th anniversary. Presenting the Sinn 103 Classic 12.
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