Deployant
Review: The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’
Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a new Reverso Tribute in tribute to the Year of the Dragon, featuring black enamel and an engraved case back.
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Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a new Reverso Tribute in tribute to the Year of the Dragon, featuring black enamel and an engraved case back.
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux has revealed the newest iteration of its sports chronograph, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 – the name is a reference to the 49th anniversary of a model originally created for the Italian market. The new chronograph retains all the characteristics of the current version in steel but is entirely in titanium and matched with a monochromatic grey dial. Initial thoughts A titanium sports chronograph isn’t revolutionary – there are a lot of them on the market – but the new Laureato possesses qualities that distinguish it from the competition. The low-key, all-grey aesthetic is appealing and also reduces the visual heft of the watch. In spite of its considerable size of 42 mm, the all-titanium construction reduces the bulky feel. Furthermore, the short lugs help with the fit on the wrist. And more so than the steel versions with variously coloured dial, this grey dial has a retro feel as it evokes the original integrated-bracelet sports watches of the 1970s, the very watches that inspired the Laureato, which almost uniformly sported grey-blue dials. The chronograph carries a price tag of US$19,400, a US$800 hike over the steel version. For a lightweight, monochromatic variant of the model, the premium is justified. All grey Based on the current Laureato Chronograph that made its debut in 2018, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 marks the 49th anniversary of the 1975 launch of the Laureato, which was reputedly named after the 1967 Dustin Hoffman film The Gradu...
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin threw the kitchen sink at the dial of the blue Overseas. And boy, is it good.The post The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph has the best blue in the business appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A new addition to their growing catalog, Ollech & Wajs has just announced an interesting new Valjoux 7753-powered chronograph. While many of their prior designs we've covered are thoroughly aviation-inspired, this new model exudes serious racing DNA to pay tribute to some of the earliest days of motor racing. Now, I've never been one for motorsports, and I'm definitely more into Ollech & Wajs designs like the reference 2834 24 Hour “Early Bird” GMT, but this new Rallychron is undoubtedly handsome. And, if you are into the whole racing thing, there are some little easter eggs built into the watch's design that you'll probably appreciate.
SJX Watches
The spring sale season that kicks off in Geneva come mid May will no doubt include many top lots across the three major auction houses, but Christie’s will claim two of the most compelling watches to go on the block: an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph and F.P. Journe Vagabondage, both unique pieces made for Michael Schumacher. Gifts from longtime Scuderia Ferrari manager Jean Todt, each watch features a custom dial commemorating Mr Schumacher’s unprecedented streak of Formula 1 world championships, as well as commemorative engraving on the back. The pair come straight from the Schumacher collection, consigned by his family along with a handful of other watches. Mr Schumacher’s watches will be offered at Christie’s Rare Watches auction taking place on May 13, 2024 in Geneva. Initial thoughts I follow F1 casually and I usually don’t like watches with emblems on the dial – the Vagabondage has 11 logos on the hour scale – but these two watches are exceptionally desirable in my eyes, particularly the Vagabondage, which is incredible for its rarity and provenance. The watches capture Mr Schumacher’s remarkable racing career – his seven world championships tie him with Lewis Hamilton as the all-time record holders – evoking the glamour and prestige of Formula 1 but also the longstanding association between watchmakers and auto racing that arguably started with sports chronographs like the Daytona and Carrera in the 1960s. At the same time, the watches il...
Worn & Wound
Ollech & Wajs has announced a new chronograph inspired by the golden age of motorsport. The OW Rallychron joins the collection this spring, and it’s a watch with at once appears traditional, and pulled straight from a 1960s race track, and also has some Easter eggs that racing aficionados will surely appreciate. Ollech & Wajs releases are always notable in our view because of the brand’s unique, somewhat offbeat sensibility, and their habit of overbuilding their watches to an almost comical degree. The OW Rallychron has a 39.5mm stainless steel case that is completely brushed, and is based on heritage chronographs from the Ollech & Wajs catalog. And while this watch has the appearance of being track ready, it has water resistance to 300 meters, so it will easily stand up to any water related activities you throw at it, or any unfortunate track related incidents that become water related activities. Unsurprisingly, the case is a tad thick to accommodate the water resistance (and the Valjoux 7753 movement), measuring in at 15.3mm. The dial is gray with black subdials, and is inspired by grayscale news photography that you might have seen in the 1960s when racing was covered in the media. It makes this one a muted and somewhat understated affair, even with what is likely to be a somewhat massive wrist presence given the case height. The hands offer the first bit of racing inspired design, with hour and minute hands being given a checkered pattern, recalling, of course, ...
Teddy Baldassarre
The TAG Heuer Carrera is widely regarded as one of the OGs of racing-inspired chronograph wristwatches, and today - decades after both the model and the deadly road race that gave it its name appeared to have been permanently discontinued - it claims a spot atop the leaderboard in the Swiss watchmaker's modern collection. Here's how the Carrera raced to worldwide acclaim, upgraded its engines along the way, and roared back from the Quartz Crisis to engage and energize a new generation of watch enthusiasts. The company we now know as TAG Heuer traces its history to 1860 and its founder Edouard Heuer; “TAG” would be added to the family business’s name in 1985, when the Techniques d’Avant Garde (TAG) Group obtained a majority share. From its beginnings, the company placed an emphasis on sports timing and on optimizing the precision of the hand-held and dashboard-mounted chronograph timepieces that were its specialty. Edouard Heuer’s most significant contribution to timekeeping was the oscillating pinion, patented in 1887. This device, which simplified the construction of chronograph calibers by decoupling the stopwatch mechanism from the timekeeping function, is still used commonly in movements today. In 1911, Heuer developed what is regarded as the first dashboard chronograph for cars and aircraft, the “Time of Trip,” and in 1914 released its first wrist-mounted chronograph (which, like many of its contemporaries, was a repurposed pocket watch with its sin...
Worn & Wound
Evergoods, the brainchild of Jack Barley and Kevin Dee, has released a new backpack, proving once again that big things come in small packages. Founded in 2016, Evergoods set out with one mission: “Create long-lasting, high-quality crossover equipment. Combining their experience from working at some of the biggest names in the outdoor industry (Goruck and Patagonia), Barley and Dee built Evergoods from the ground up, literally. After designing custom furniture for their facility in Bozeman, MT, the team rapidly moved to create their two flagship products, the Civic Panel Loader 24 (CPL) and the Mountain Panel Loader 30 (MPL). From these two products, they would expand their staff and product lines, becoming a leader in the soft-goods industry. Their newest release, the CPL16, builds upon the iconic legacy of its big sibling, the CPL24. Made from a solution-dyed custom-made 840d ballistic nylon, YKK reverse coil zippers, a highly breathable back panel, and a water-repellent coating, this pack was made to conquer your day with ease. The sleek exterior of the pack features a standard top handle, as well as a side handle allowing you to carry it like a briefcase. Moving inside, you’ll find a largely open main compartment with an internal stretch pocket perfect for carrying folders or books, and a fully padded laptop compartment capable of fitting up to a 16” MacBook Pro. Evergoods describes this pack the best, saying “It’s the do-it-all workhorse of an EDC bag you ...
Fratello
Yesterday, NASA astronaut Thomas P. Stafford (September 17th, 1930 – March 18th, 2024) passed away at age 93. Stafford was one of the 24 astronauts who flew to the Moon. Before the Apollo program, he was part of the Gemini 6A and Gemini 9A missions. Apollo 10 “Snoopy” Tom Stafford was the commander of the […] Visit NASA Astronaut General Tom P. Stafford Passes Away At Age 93 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Engine turning is a craft that spans many cultures, disciplines, and design philosophies.
Worn & Wound
Don’t look now, but it feels like luxury watch brands are finally beginning to discover what many in the enthusiast community have known for quite some time, namely that titanium rules, and that given the proper attention, it can clean up pretty nicely and actually look quite refined. We recently saw Zenith debut their Chronomaster Sport in titanium, and it’s not really a surprise that their sportiest watch translates particularly well in the material. Now, just weeks later, Girard-Perregaux has unveiled a new Laureato Chronograph reference in titanium, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49. While Girard-Perregaux has had other titanium Laureatos in their catalog, this is the first time the classic case profile has been presented in grade 5 titanium. That’s important, because the Laureato case is essential to understanding the watch. The chronograph case measures 42mm in diameter and is just 12mm tall, and the case is gentler and curvier than other integrated bracelet sports watches that were introduced in the same era (the Laureato was introduced in 1975). In steel, the Laureato Chronograph has an imposing heft, and you feel every ounce in that watch’s wrist presence. In titanium, the chronograph presents very differently, and has that shockingly light feeling that people who swear by titanium have always known and loved. What’s special about this watch is that, similar to the Zenith linked above, Girard-Perregaux has paid special attention to the dial, picking a co...
Fratello
Last July, Omega decided it was time to introduce the watch for the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris. Ben wrote about the new Seamaster Diver 300M Paris 2024 edition here. The combination of the white dial and Moonshine Gold bezel insert struck a chord with me, but it wasn’t until a few months later when […] Visit Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Paris 2024 Edition to read the full article.
Deployant
We reviewed the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum last year, and were impressed on how BR achieved this lume on the watch. We investigate.
Monochrome
While we all very well know who created the luxury sports watch segment, and what was the first sporty-chic watch with integrated bracelet, it must be said that other iconic models came on the market soon after. Following the 1972 Royal Oak, 1976 saw the introduction of the Nautilus and 1977 the launch of the […]
Fratello
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we discuss flying on airplanes with our vintage watches and why we avoid it. We also cover several other watch-related topics before and after the main subject. Enjoy the show! Flying on airplanes may be a normal and safe activity, but how does it affect […] Visit Fratello On Air: Wearing Vintage Watches On Airplanes to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Already collaborators on several projects, Dominique Renaud, one of the founders of Renaud & Papi, and Julien Tixier, a young watchmaker and constructor, have established Renaud Tixier, a brand backed by investors. The inaugural creation of Renaud Tixier is Monday, a time-only watch with an automatic movement sporting a novel micro-rotor. Conceived to realise Mr Renaud’s many concepts and inventions, Renaud Tixier also aims to blend the styles of the two watchmakers. Each of the namesake founders comes from a different generation of watchmaking – pre- and post-Quartz Crisis – but the duo enjoy a shared philosophy that have made their past projects a success, something they are hoping to replicate with Renaud Tixier. Initial thoughts On a macro level, the Renaud Tixier and its first watch are noteworthy for a few reasons. One of its main points of appeal, at least initially, is the name, specifically Dominique Renaud. Even though he departed Renaud & Papi (APRP) over 20 years ago, his name still carries weight, particularly since many alumni of APRP, Anthony de Haas of Lange and Carole Forestier of TAG Heuer for instance, speak well of him. The name will certainly help sell the watch, particularly in countries with a strong reverence for creators and history, like Japan for example. And the fact that it’s a micro-rotor is noteworthy. Though relatively common in high-end watchmaking, micro-rotors are rare amongst independent watchmakers. The most prominent indie mak...
Hodinkee
Great Danes and a great watch collide in this behind-the-scenes photo.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Our full review of the affordable and impressive San Martin SN004 MilSub. Get full specs with photos and our detailed analysis.
Fratello
Some 25 kilometers north of Geneva, on the shore of the city’s eponymous lake, lies the town of Nyon. This is the place that Renaud Tixier, the latest Swiss independent watch brand launching today, calls its home. It’s the latest collaborative effort between Dominique Renaud - the renowned watchmaker and co-founder of Renaud & Papi […] Visit Reinventing The Micro-Rotor: Renaud Tixier Makes A Mechanically Innovative Debut to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin and the Met have just launched an extension of the watchmaker's "Masterpiece on Your Wrist" program.The post Vacheron Constantin x The MET unveil ‘Masterpiece on your Wrist’ bespoke commission program appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Am I being overly dramatic when I think of the word “fratricide” after seeing the two-tone Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80? Well, first, this is Fratello, so it is within the theme. And then there’s the watch. Certina’s GMT took me by surprise and made me worry about its “big brother,” the Longines Spirit […] Visit The Two-Tone Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80 Took Me By Surprise On A Monday Morning to read the full article.
Monochrome
For most watch enthusiasts, Citizen is probably best known for its wide range of affordable quartz, solar-powered and mechanical watches. Watches like the Promaster series, for instance, have been fan-favourite models for years. More recently, the Tsuyosa collection made quite an impact for its honest yet compelling proposition. There is one collection that, however, delivers […]
Deployant
We did a roundup article on up and coming independents to watch out for in 2020. We revisit the list. Who remains , who dropped out, and who are new.
Fratello
Most major watch shows center around brands and new releases, leaving the pre-owned and vintage side of the industry to run smaller, typically localized gatherings. However, a few shows break this rule, with one, the Original Miami Beach Antique Show, taking place in the colossal Miami Beach Convention Center. Held every January, the show attracts […] Visit Five Of The Best Watches At The Original Miami Beach Antique Show 2024 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Watch connoisseurs, as Joshua Munchow has written previously, want to connect with their watches, desiring an object to behold and cherish for its beauty, rarity, or complexity. Enthusiasts, on the other hand, like to wear their watches, use their watches, and maybe even abuse their watches when they use them as the tools they are. Here's why.
Deployant
Seiko releases a tranche of 5 new models in the Presage line, a new series to be known as the Classic Series. The Classic Series makes its debut with a diversity of colors, materials, and textures of traditional Japanese crafts, highlighting the soft and gentle side of Japanese design.
Fratello
Swiss brand Genus is known for the quirky extravagance of the GNS1. It won the GPHG award for Mechanical Exception in 2019 and spawned some delightful variations. We also know the challenges of the “second album” for any hot new artist, as well as for wristwear. By introducing the Genus GNS2, I feel the brand […] Visit Introducing: The Genus GNS2 - Radical Chic With A Blue Twist to read the full article.
Monochrome
There was a time in Formula 1 racing where not one, not two, not three but pretty much half the field had the talent and material to compete for race wins, and thus the championship. During the 1970s, a time that’s considered the golden age of F1 racing, many stars rose to the top. Think […]
Time+Tide
Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca gave us the exclusive that a bracelet was coming to the Type XX/20, and now it has finally arrived!The post A new bracelet has been introduced into the Breguet Type XX / Type 20 collection with a micro-adjustment system appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Family, tragedy, wrestling, and Rolex anchor our watch-related movie of the week.
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