Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tudor Pelagos FXD Review: A Modern Military Dive Watch That Earns the Hype
A week with the Tudor Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale revealed why this modern military diver has become one of Tudor’s most respected tool watches.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
A week with the Tudor Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale revealed why this modern military diver has become one of Tudor’s most respected tool watches.
Fratello
It’s hard to believe, but we’re approaching summer blockbuster season in cinemas. Who better to rule the silver screens than the original hitmaker, Steven Spielberg? On June 12th, his latest movie, Disclosure Day, will debut. Two of the leading characters will don Hamilton watches. Let’s have a look at these two very different pieces. From […] Visit Hamilton Gets Into Character For Disclosure Day to read the full article.
Fratello
When the dress code says, “casual chic,” what do you wear? “Not an eggplant-colored suit” is my first thought. I saw it once during an opening cocktail of a grandiose watch event, and the combination with white sneakers didn’t make it any better. Would an elegant, slim dress watch have saved the overall look? It […] Visit Is The Latest Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738G-001 The Greatest? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Tiffany & Co. is one of the only major jewellers without a significant watchmaking programme. Episode 41 of the SJX Podcast examines the brand’s past, present, and future under the leadership of Nicolas Beau, who is credited with building Chanel’s watch business into what it is today. When it comes to watches, Tiffany & Co. is potentially a diamond in the rough — it’s a uniquely American luxury brand with enviable cultural recognition. The brand also has a global boutique network giving it immediate access to all major markets, which could accelerate its trajectory with the right product mix. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
SJX Watches
As Seiko’s 145th anniversary celebrations unfold, the brand expands its value-oriented Presage Classic “Craftsmanship” collection with two new commemorative limited editions. The HCC007 features a gradient blue Arita porcelain dial in an appealing 39.6 mm size, while the 36 mm HCC004 answers the call for smaller dress watch options. Initial thoughts Seiko has been making incremental improvements to its Presage line of entry-level dress watches since the collection debuted in 2010. Almost since the beginning, Seiko has used the Presage as a vehicle to experiment with ways to make traditional craftsmanship accessible, starting with fired enamel dials in 2012 and Arita porcelain dials in 2019. Since then, the Presage has benefited from a movement upgrade, and now boasts a weekend-proof three-day power reserve. The 145th anniversary editions prove that Seiko hasn’t run out of ideas, and the HCC007 in particular brings an additional layer of artisanal individuality to the execution that is rarely seen at this price range — its gradient blue dial has echoes of the Credor Eichi II in ruri blue. The charming and compact 36 mm HCC004 offers a little something for everyone. Powered by the same cal. 6R51 as its porcelain-dialled sibling, it features an embossed dial with a silk-like texture — the latest in a long line of Seiko watches with fabric-patterned dials. Both models appear aimed at the enthusiast market, as neither features a date window. This gives each watch a ...
Deployant
Bell & Ross adds a new chapter to its partnership with the Patrouille de France with the BR‑X3 Patrouille de France, a limited edition of 250 pieces. It sits at the top of the brand’s professional range and pairs the familiar square aviation case with a manufacture movement developed to meet chronometer standards.
Fratello
There is a particular charm to watches that sit just beyond modernity yet remain too young to be vintage. In recent years, collectors have coined the term “neo-vintage” to define this liminal space, roughly spanning the mid-1990s through the 2000s. It’s a period defined not by nostalgia alone but also by a fascinating intersection of […] Visit The Neo-Vintage Sweet Spot: Why The Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001 Still Makes Sense Today to read the full article.
Time+Tide
With the release of the Swatch x AP collaboration this week, the other novelties of the week have probably passed under the radar. We’re here to give them the light they deserve, and speaking about light, I’ll start with Ming, which uses two polarised filters as hands to have an ever-changing dial appearance. Oris remoderns … Continued
Monochrome
Spa-Francorchamps… to many, myself included, it feels almost like hallowed ground. It’s one of the greatest race tracks in the world, nestled in the south-east of the Belgian Ardennes. The circuit undulates up and down, left and right, presenting a 7,004-meter-long high-speed and technical challenge for man and machine. The Busstop chicane, the La Source […]
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Liberum Watches Finding new ways to stand out in the watch market doesn’t have to be limited to a new silhouette, a new strap, or colorway. Sometimes, it’s about being innovative with materials. Take Liberum’s RE-XHAUST, a new release coming from the Italian brand through its Kickstarter campaign. As Liberum notes, traditional stainless steel production relies on mining raw materials and an energy-intensive manufacturing process. By working with Termignoni (an Italian brand that specializes in motorcycle exhausts) Liberum recycles the exhaust material into the RE-XHAUST’s watch cases. In doing so, Liberum has added a sustainable – and perhaps competitive – angle to its release, coming later this month. Keith Haring Auction This week, Sotheby’s began auctioning off a series of works by Keith Haring, from the private collection of his friend Kermit Oswald. With a friendship that originated in their childhood, Oswald’s selection of items on the block show an intimacy with the Haring that few were able to achieve within the artist’s short life (Haring died when he was 31 due to complications with AIDS). Within the collection, Oswald has included some fasc...
Monochrome
Like many microbrands, Singapore-based Horologically Unique was fueled by a passion for watches and the desire to create something personal, something that would first answer the own requirements of the creator. In this case, the idea was to offer a watch that respects as much as possible the Patek Philippe Calatrava 96, basically the blueprint […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
After reviewing the Seiko Turtle, Citizen NY0040, and Orient Kamasu, we compare which affordable dive watch has the best mix of character, value, and staying power.
Monochrome
A. Lange & Söhne revisits one of its most distinctive designs, the rectangular Cabaret, and reinforces the model’s role by pairing the brand’s proprietary Honeygold alloy with a black-rhodiumed dial, a combination seen earlier in the Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold, thus highlighting the importance of the watch. First introduced in 1997, the Cabaret stands apart in […]
Hodinkee
Niche Lange collectors, rejoice! The Cabaret is back! Well, sort of. Today, on this fine Saturday, Lange has brought back the Cabaret in its complicated form, with a 50-piece run of the Cabaret Tourbillon in the brand's proprietary Honeygold alloy. It is a hefty block of grey and Honeygold, with this rectangular silhouette making its first appearance after a 30-piece handwerskskunst run in 2021. The price point, like many of the past Cabaret Tourbillon editions, sits in the mid-six-figure range at around €300,000. When the Cabaret Tourbillon was first introduced to the world in 2008, it was quite horologically impressive, adding the world's first hacking tourbillon into the brand's rectangular design from 1997. It might sound quite surprising that a hacking tourbillon had not been produced until 2008, but being able to stop such a large mass like a tourbillon cage is certainly not an easy feat, especially when you require delicate parts to do so, and with the need to navigate around the tourbillon cage itself. After all, you'd need to be able to stop the cage at any orientation it's in, and at any point in the balance wheel's oscillation. So Lange's movement designers set to work and devised a V-shaped spring that would directly halt the balance wheel—not the tourbillon cage. Its V-shape, centered around a rotating pivot at the end of a lever, would mean that one side would make contact with the balance wheel or tourbillon cage post, and pivot the other side of the V i...
WatchAdvice
Longines has taken great strides into revising their Hydroconquest line, but is it the collection’s best version yet? Let’s find out! What We Love: Clean, modern design Excellent value proposition Comfortably wearing mesh bracelet What We Don’t: No tool-less interchangeability The illusion of the mesh bracelet is lost up close Is it the same Hydroconquest? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Though I’ve said it ad nauseam, it’s become common knowledge that Longines is one of the most consistent brands in the watch world. Whether it be their logo remaining unchanged since 1867 or their ability to produce high-quality watches at an impressive price point, the Swatch Group brand has remained an industry staple. Longines has long defined itself through a dependable, heritage-inspired aesthetic. However, the 2020s have seen the brand begin to test the waters of modern design. While old-school styles like the Master, Flagship, and Spirit still remain, both the Conquest and HydroConquest lines have been redefined with a more contemporary, 21st-century look. For this review, we’ll be focusing on the latter. Matt had the opportunity to share his thoughts on the 42mm version of the HydroConquest, but now I get to tackle the 39mm version with the ice-blue dial. First Impressions It didn’t surprise me that the Longines HydroConquest received a revamp. Admittedly, after the HydroConquest GMTs were released, i...
Hodinkee
Earlier in the week, I got a chance to see the new Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop collaboration in person, the hottest (and most hotly debated) thing since, well, Swatch did their first collaboration with Omega. There were some restrictions, like the fact that I couldn't handle some of them without gloves, but I did get enough of an impression to have a lot of thoughts. Yes, I think they're a lot of fun, and actually pretty impressive in some ways. I get that a lot of people will disagree, and that's fine. But to answer the last part of our headline first: you can get the Swatch x AP Royal Pop watches only at select retail stores starting May 16. You can find those stores on the Swatch website by going to the homepage, looking for the collab, and clicking the "See Stores" link. One version (with a crown at the right) is $420, while the other (with a crown at the top) is $400. Also, this is not an AP-led product, so don't call your local AP AD hoping to get one. Swatch is in charge here. Love it or hate it, the Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop is big news. How big? A few hundred comments on our site is a good measure. But how about the fact that, in 24 hours, our "Introducing" story on the collab got about 20x an average story would do in a month and 1.75x more page views than the Rolex "Pepsi" GMT cancellation (which was the highest-traffic story of Watches & Wonders to date). We love watches over here, but it can be a bubble. There are a few rare moments when the wa...
Monochrome
Over the past few years, Patek Philippe has been continuously reshaping the Calatrava. What was once the ultimate ultra-classical dress watch – well, it still is with the 6196P – has evolved into something more textured, more casual, and, importantly, more practical. References like the 5326 Annual Calendar Travel Time and the 5328 8-Day introduced […]
Deployant
Last month's Watches & Wonders and our trip to Burgundy saw us drinking lots of wines. So what's new? Here are some of the highlights.
Worn & Wound
Venezianico makes a lot of watches. This is a fact that’s become unmistakably clear over these last few years as their footprint has expanded in the enthusiast community. Regardless of whether you know them for watches like this or watches like this, there’s a good chance they also make a watch that’s completely unlike anything you’ve already seen from them. Making a huge variety of watches at a high volume can be a bit of a gamble in this industry. There’s a sense among many enthusiasts that exclusivity is something to be protected, and when a watch brand casts a very wide net, it can dilute their messaging. We had a great discussion along these lines concerning Grand Seiko in a recent podcast. Clearly there was a moment a few years ago when that brand was flooding the market with new stuff, and their identity was a little lost. “Analysis paralysis” is a term often used by consumers to describe the feeling of shopping a brand that has too much stuff to sift through. The counter argument of course is right there in the Seiko family. No enthusiast would say that too many watches in the Prospex, Presage, and Seiko 5 lines, among others, is a bad thing. Between the many branches of the Seiko family tree, there are accessible options for everyone, and that’s historically been seen as a good thing for the community and the sign of a healthy brand appealing to a broad market. What this really comes down to is whether a brand is positioning itself as luxury ...
Monochrome
French brand Briston is known for its accessible sports watches that are easy-going and fun to wear, and the new Clubmaster Legend Diver Ocean takes that same route. Much of the brand’s identity comes from the use of cellulose acetate cases, the same material often used for sunglasses, and on top of it, this is […]
Monochrome
When dive watches start to flood the watch scene, it’s a sure sign that summer is just around the corner. With this in mind, Hamilton updates its go-anywhere, do-anything 40mm Khaki Navy Scuba line with wave-patterned dials and new colours. For those venturing abroad, Hamilton also proposes three new editions of its pragmatic travel-oriented diver, […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another list. This week, we decided to dive into the world of regatta timers. Rolex’s big introduction this year during Watches and Wonders was the updated Yacht-Master II. In itself, the updated watch proved to be a huge improvement compared to the previous generation of The Crown’s regatta timer. In both usability and […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Rolex Yacht-Master II to read the full article.
SJX Watches
German independent watchmaker Marco Lang launched the Seven Spheres, the first multi-axis tourbillon wristwatch from Germany, and one of the few made with traditional materials and techniques. While the rotational speed is necessarily gradual, the central position of the massive seven-axis regulator affords a good view of the fine Saxon finishing from all sides. Initial thoughts Multi-axis tourbillons tend to be the domain of industrial brands, or independents that rely on industrial suppliers. It’s also a genre that’s overwhelmingly Swiss — Thomas Prescher is German, but produced his pioneering multi-axis tourbillons in Switzerland. In this context, the Seven Spheres is a departure from the norm in several respects. It’s Marco Lang’s first tourbillon since branching out on his own in 2019, and it’s the first multi-axis tourbillon made in Saxony. Without historical precedent to contend with, Mr Lang has produced something quite unlike any other German watch — a central, multi-axis tourbillon suspended within a donut-shaped movement. Despite its artisanal quality and low-volume production, the Seven Spheres costs no more than an equivalent from a big brand. It’s counterintuitive to suggest that a wristwatch that costs a quarter-million Euros is a good value, but on a comparative basis the pricing makes sense. Seven spheres, front and back Marco Lang cites the work of both Ptolemy and Carl Sagan as inspiration for the Seven Spheres’ architecture. The seven ...
Monochrome
Ever since its release, A. Lange & Söhne’s superb 1815 Tourbillon is a genuine horological heavyweight. While it might not have the complexity of the Tourbograph or the Triple Split, it certainly carries its weight, and not just by material. This latest edition is refined, elegant, technically impressive and aesthetically beyond words. Dressed in all […]
Hodinkee
Year over year, it's becoming increasingly important for luxury brands to back their products with traceability for precious materials like gold and gemstones, both for regulatory and compliance bodies and for conscious consumers. Traceability has become a greater concern with the rise of counterfeiting and the growing demand for transparency in ethical material sourcing. We have seen several watch and jewelry brands taking matters into their own hands by establishing their own traceability programs, from Rolex to Breitling, as well as the entire LVMH group. Here, many brands are relying on the expansion of blockchain technology to create digital passports for their wares. However, one company is taking things even deeper to a forensic level. In 2016, Haelixa started with a mission to streamline traceability within supply chains by developing a patented DNA-based technology to verify product origin and authenticity. "The first application of our DNA markers started at the supply chain level with raw materials," explains Klemens Link, Haelixa's Director of Anti-Counterfeiting and Brand Protection. "We began with textiles but have since expanded into precious metals as well as gemstones. We can apply our DNA-based nanoparticles to rough stones directly at the mine or to rough gold directly at the refinery." On the other end of the spectrum, Haelixa can also implement its technology beyond raw materials and directly to finished goods. "Here, the value proposition is different...
Hodinkee
Each spring for the last 152 years, 20 of the fastest horses in the country line up to run at legendary Churchill Downs racetrack in Louisville, Kentucky. In the two minutes that follow, the world holds its breath, watching as history unfolds. For the past 15 years, Swiss watchmaker Longines has been the official timekeeper of the Kentucky Derby and, in 2013, became the title sponsor of the Kentucky Oaks, which takes place the day before. It's a weekend of splendor that has transcended the equestrian world, becoming the social event of the season. Longines Spirit Pilot Flyback Chronograph and Primaluna Moonphase. Longines' legacy in the equestrian world predates the derby itself, with the brand producing pocket watches and chronographs featuring equestrian motifs as early as 1869. Their chronographs were later utilized by racecourses towards the end of the 1800s. From there, Longines has been involved in nearly every aspect of competitive horsemanship throughout the 20th and now into the 21st century, from flat racing to Show Jumping, Dressage, and Eventing, serving as the official timekeeper and sponsor of some of the most prestigious competitions in the world. Georgia Benjamin's (@Georgiabenj) watch dial themed hat for the Kentucky Oaks. The Kentucky Derby, which this year boasted its highest viewership in history with nearly 20 million viewers, has been held at the historic Churchill Downs racetrack since its inception. There have been many historic races over the past ...
Worn & Wound
After a bit of a break, 3 for $5k is back! The reader edition of this series has always been a favorite, as it allows Worn & Wound’s audience to chime in on the watches they own, or would buy, with a hypothetical $5,000 budget. The fun with these is always in the approach, and today we have a unique spin from reader Paul Pessagno. His Instagram handle is @bigwristwatchguy, which should give you an idea of his perspective on collecting. With a nearly 9 inch wrist, Paul sought out watches for this exercise that look appropriate on a big wrist, but still represent a balanced collecting philosophy. Let us know what you think of Paul’s picks in the comments below, and stay tuned for future editions of The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition. The modern watch industry has a clear darling right now, the 38mm to 40mm “sweet spot.” Brands are downsizing across the board, digging into their archives, and championing historically accurate, compact proportions. But having an 8.85 inch wrist fundamentally changes how a timepiece wears. When you fall outside the industry average, those celebrated mid-century dimensions can easily end up looking less like a serious horological instrument and more like a vintage toy. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Paul Pessagno (@bigwristwatchguy) Building a versatile three watch rotation presents a unique challenge for the larger wristed collector. A great collection isn’t just about stubbornly picking the bi...
Deployant
Urwerk releases the final version of their extraordinary UR-10 Spacemaster, now with a blue dial in the same titanium/steel case and bracelet.
Fratello
To celebrate Seiko’s 145th anniversary, the Japanese brand has created a series of watches featuring a nice combination of blue and white. The series pays tribute to Seiko Blue, resulting in some surprisingly fresh creations. The new Seiko Prospex HBC005 and HBB001 limited editions proudly sport a crisp white dial with a vibrant blue bezel. […] Visit Seiko Celebrates Its 145th Anniversary With The Prospex HBC005 And HBB001 Limited Editions to read the full article.
Monochrome
Skeleton watches are clearly a big part of Orient Star. Between the sporty Avant-Garde Skeleton, the more refined Orient Star Skeleton in the brand’s Contemporary Collection, and now this new Orient Star M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding created for the brand’s 75th anniversary, the Japanese brand has built a broad range of openworked watches over […]
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