Hodinkee
Introducing: The Patek Philippe Ref. 5524G-010 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
The Patek that shook the watch world to its core in 2015, refreshed with an ivory lacquered dial and white gold case.
Results for Mother of Pearl Dial
34,504 articles · 160 videos found · page 647 of 1156
Hodinkee
Monochrome
First Look - The Zenith G.F.J. Revives the Legendary Calibre 135 (Incl. Video)
On the occasion of its 160th anniversary, Zenith celebrates its legacy in the field of precision watchmaking, bringing back to life the venerable calibre 135, the most awarded movement from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions. In 2022, Zenith released an exclusive limited edition of 10 watches, powered by vintage 135-O movements, restored and […]
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Marks 270 Years with Most-Complicated-Wristwatch-Ever
This year is quite the anniversary for Vacheron Constantin, with the brand turning 270 years old. To mark the occasion appropriately, the Geneva-based manufacture created the mighty Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première, the culmination of eight years of development. Now the most complicated wristwatch ever, this unique wristwatch boasts 41 complications on two faces, encompassing five rare functions as well as a world first – a celestial object tracker. All of that is contained in a surprisingly compact, but still large, case. (A detailed list of the complications is available in the addendum below.) Initial thoughts Timepieces of such complexity reach beyond the realm of horology and can be regarded as engineering marvels. In a sense the Solaria is not unexpected since VC has a long history of making ultra-complications – “The Berkley” pocket watch was just unveiled a year ago – but the Solaria is one of the most fascinating watches in recent memory. The numbers behind the Solaria are impressive. Beyond the 41 functions, the watch is powered by the cal. 3655 that’s made up of 1521 pieces and the subject of 13 patents. The watch took eight years to develop and construct, which is impressive for a single timepiece. Surely VC will trickle down some of the developments related to cal. 3655 and install them in simpler timepieces, but condensing 41 complications into a wristwatch no thicker than 15 mm is an engineering feat that cannot b...
Monochrome
First Look - The New IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 (Incl. Video)
IWC’s stellar piece for Watches & Wonders is the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar, the first complication to join the family since it was revamped in 2023. What’s more, the 41mm Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar is the first stainless steel model at IWC to bear the names of two legends in the world of watchmaking. Evoking the imprint […]
Fratello
Grand Seiko Presents Two Completely Different Tentagraph Watches: The Cool Evolution 9 SLGC007 And The Wild Tokyo Lion SLGC009
When Grand Seiko launched the first Tentagraph in 2023, it was also the brand’s first all-mechanical chronograph. Two years later, two new Tentagraph models debut - the Evolution 9 SLGC007, which is a new colorway of the 2023 SLGC001, and the bold Tokyo Lion SLGC009, a watch in the Sport Collection. Yes, Grand Seiko presents […] Visit Grand Seiko Presents Two Completely Different Tentagraph Watches: The Cool Evolution 9 SLGC007 And The Wild Tokyo Lion SLGC009 to read the full article.
Fratello
Grand Seiko Steps Into The Future With New Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB001 And SLGB003
Seiko founded Grand Seiko to pursue watchmaking excellence. Most commonly, this mission translated into creating the most accurate watches possible. Later on, aesthetics also played an increasingly important part thanks to the Grammar of Design. Grand Seiko was Seiko’s answer to the Swiss domination of the industry, and the line offered watches that could compete […] Visit Grand Seiko Steps Into The Future With New Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB001 And SLGB003 to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The new Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SLGB001 & SLGB003 (With Finally a Micro-Adjustment Clasp)
When talking about vintage Grand Seiko watches, some references or acronyms have a lot of meaning. For instance, 44GS refers to one of the most important models ever, the watch that initiated the Grammar of Design and the shape of all subsequent creations. The acronym VFA also has its importance. Standing for Very Fine Adjusted […]
Fratello
Boom! The New TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Collection
If last May’s TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith announcement left you yearning for a regular-production retro-inspired collection, then today is your lucky day. The new Formula 1 Solargraph collection is here, and I think it goes a long way toward satisfying the legions of fans asking for a return to the colorful good old […] Visit Boom! The New TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Collection to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Insight: Rolex Land-Dweller Cal. 7135, Patents and Innovation Explained
Rolex has entered uncharted territory with the Land-Dweller, arguably the most advanced and radical creation from a hitherto conservative brand. The Land-Dweller is significant, perhaps even game changing, not because of the integrated bracelet or patented solid lume, but because of the cal. 7135, a new calibre with an all-new double-wheel escapement known as Dynapulse and a ceramic balance staff. (This story details the technical advances in the movement; for a review of the watch, check out the accompanying story.) The Land-Dweller 40 mm in platinum The fundamentals Why is it significant, or even game changing? The cal. 7135 is the first in-house, serial production Rolex movement that is high frequency, beating at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. All things being equal, a higher frequency promises superior timekeeping. Despite the higher frequency, the cal. 7135 still has a 66-hour power reserve. That’s thanks in part to the Dynapulse escapement which is 30% more efficient than a conventional Swiss lever escapement, while occupying essentially the same volume of space. The balance assembly of the cal. 7135 Dynapulse is one of several innovations that make the cal. 7135 a landmark, especially since it will be produced at scale. While Rolex has traditionally been associated with incremental innovation, the cal. 7135 is a revolution. The Land-Dweller is the subject of 32 filed patents, 18 of which are unique to the watch. Moreover, 16 of the patents unique to the watch are ...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Rolex Land-Dweller
The most discussed debut of Watches & Wonders 2025, the Rolex Land-Dweller is an entirely new model with a new case and bracelet, but that’s not why it is significant. While Rolex is conventionally associated with incremental innovation, the Land-Dweller is game changing. Not because of the design, but because it’s equipped with perhaps the ultimate mechanical movement produced at scale in contemporary watchmaking, a calibre that’s the subject of 16 patents. (The finer technical details can be found in our accompanying story.) The cal. 7135 inside the Land-Dweller is a new, sophisticated calibre equipped with an indirect-impulse, double-wheel escapement that’s entirely in silicon – christened Dynapulse – matched with a ceramic balance pivot. And it’s a high-frequency calibre running at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. Cumulatively, that makes for a superior timekeeper on the wrist. The Land-Dweller debuts in two sizes, 36 mm and 40 mm, in three basic variants: white Rolesor, Everose gold, and platinum. There are also a handful of high-jeweller versions. The Land-Dweller in white Rolesor on Roger Federer’s wrist. Image – Rolex Initial thoughts The Land-Dweller is both surprising and predictable. The styling is surprising; the integrated bracelet echoes historical watches like the Oysterquartz and ref. 5100 Beta 21 but I never expected it. The Land-Dweller looks and feels surprising for a Rolex Oyster. At 9.7 mm it’s the slimmest Oyster Perpetual in the cat...
Time+Tide
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface gold mesh is dripping with delectable Art Deco opulence
With a pink gold case and Milanese mesh bracelet, this new Reverso Tribute has all the hallmarks of becoming a modern classic.The post The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface gold mesh is dripping with delectable Art Deco opulence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Zenith could win Watches & Wonders with its blue ceramic Chronomaster Sport
A lot of people will be blue if they don't secure one of the 160 pieces, mark our words.The post Zenith could win Watches & Wonders with its blue ceramic Chronomaster Sport appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
NORQAIN Launches New Independence Skeleton Chronos
After last year’s success in launching the Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm, NORQAIN will be unveiling two new additions to this line-up for Watches and Wonders: purple and jade. Now, you may recall that there was already a purple Skeleton Chrono in September of 2024, but this one we’re told is slightly different – and not limited to just a 300-piece production. As the name suggests for these models, NORQAIN has continued its offering of high-end timepieces with a little peek under the hood, so to speak, with a skeletonized dial. While this may be a rugged watch that’s meant to be put to use, seeing the delicate pieces just underneath the sapphire crystal remind us of why we love this hobby. In terms of appearance and material, both new models feature Grade 5 titanium cases, weighing in at just 94 grams. For the purple version, the titanium complements the deep purple accents and rubber strap for a sporty look. As for the jade version, there is a DLC coating for a more sombre look that nicely contrasts the richness of the green rubber strap. The Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm is equipped with a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, a running seconds indicator, and a fly-back function. In terms of movement, both models run on an NORQAIN 8K Manufacture Calibre (NK24/1) with a 62-hour power reserve, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. Both new references in the Skeleton Chrono 42mm will be showcased during Watches & Wonders and you can expect h...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution Four-Axis Tourbillon
Jacob & Co. this year celebrates 10 years since the launch of the Astronomia collection, which comprises some of the craziest, oversized and overjewelled (like in diamonds), overperforming creations that are also mechanically complex and provide the owner, apart from other pleasures, with a true dance of arms, sub-dials and rotating stones… And, of course, […]
Deployant
In conversation: Franco and Federico Ziviani introducing Gerald Charles (video)
We caught up with Franco & Federico Ziviani, the owners of the maison Gerald Charles in their recent trip to Singapore. Eavesdrop here for the discussions.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Chronoswiss Small Second Blue Orbit and Desert
Think of Chronoswiss, and certain image elements immediately come to mind: a watch with a fluted case, a large onion crown, most likely openworked, colourful, and with a regulator display – elements of a timepiece meant to stand out. With few exceptions, such as select Sirius models, the entire Chronoswiss catalogue, including the Heritage and […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Chronoswiss Q-Repeater Collection
Gerd R. Lang, the founder of Chronoswiss, developed a distinctive design language featuring old-school regulators, jumping hours, knurled bezels, large onion crowns and screwed lugs. In the hands of the Ebstein family since 2012, Chronoswiss has maintained the regulator and other traditional displays but injected new life into its collections with a bold mix of […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 Jumping Hour 25th-Anniversary Edition
The Gerald Charles brand was founded by the legendary designer Gérald Genta in 2000, with backing from the Zivani family. After the designer’s death in 2011, Federico Zivani set about reviving the brand and has since created a solid collection of watches around the idiosyncratic yet immediately recognisable Maestro case. Celebrating 25 years of the […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition
In celebration of its quarter-century anniversary, Gerald Charles presents the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition. This is a jump-hour watch with an in-house-designed caliber. Naturally, the new timepiece features the brand’s signature baroque case shape, but it is fully modernized with Grade 5 titanium construction. We’ve covered the majority of new releases from Gerald Charles […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon Limited Edition
Favre Leuba is among the oldest of watchmakers, founded in 1737 and ultimately sold by the family in the mid-1980s following the quartz crisis. Although ownership changed multiple times, it’s latest and perhaps most compelling relaunch happened last year when Patrik Hoffmann, former CEO of Ulysse Nardin took the helm and the new Chief Tourbillon […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Baltic Scalegraph for the Tour Auto 2025
The Tour Auto is the historic reincarnation of the Tour de France Automobile, a race created in 1899 by the Automobile Club de France, and French brand Baltic is the official timer of the event this year again. As with previous year’s events and ahead of the 2025 edition of this vintage car rally, which […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Bovet Récital 30 World Timer
Introduced last year, the Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 tackled one of the biggest challenges of traditional world timers – Daylight Saving Time (DST) – while incorporating a perpetual calendar with roller-based indications and a flying tourbillon. Powered by a movement delivering an impressive 10-day power reserve, it was housed in a 46.3mm Dimier Writing […]
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Sinn T50 Titanium Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081
Another Sunday, another showdown! This week, we’re matching up two professional titanium dive watches that come in under €5K. The first is the recently introduced Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081. This new version of the popular Marinemaster was released to celebrate 60 years of Seiko dive watches. The second is the Sinn T50, which debuted in […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Sinn T50 Titanium Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Raúl Pagès RP2
Revealed just a few days ago, the RP2 is the second in-house wristwatch of Raúl Pagès, an independent watchmaker with a background in restoration. The RP2 retains the clean, tasteful styling that characterised his first watch, the RP1. But unlike the RP2, his latest creation was conceived to be mechanically simpler – but equally high quality – and more accessible in terms of price and availability. So the question is, does the RP2 live up to the high standards set by his preceding creation? Initial thoughts The answer, in short, is yes. On its face the RP2 is not a surprising watch. Predictably, it’s a time-only watch with a finely decorated movement, which is exactly what many enthusiasts are seeking at the moment. The RP2 is also one of many such three-hand watches that have been launched in the last three years or so. But the RP2 is different for a few good reasons. For one, its creator, Raúl Pagès, is both a watchmaker and restorer. His background can be discerned from many details, particularly in the movement, like the bimetallic balance and concealed screw for the crown wheel. The quality of the watch is impeccable. The high level of execution is especially evident on the movement. Though the movement is clearly styled, it incorporates many refined details in a tasteful manner. The calibre doesn’t try to do too much and it looks right. The dial is even cleaner but again incorporates notable details. That said, it is a little too stark for me, and I would...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Schwarz Etienne 1902 Petite Seconde
Sometimes, moving forward means going back to recover the good things from the past. That appears to be the case at Schwarz Etienne, a small, independent brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds that wants to raise its profile and become better known on the watch scene. Founded in 1902, the brand is now in the hands of […]
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: MAEN x Nico Leonord, A.I. Travel Planning, and A Commemorative Speedmaster
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. MAEN x Nico Leanord Jump Hour This week, MAEN debuted their latest release, a collaboration with YouTuber Nico Leonard. The MAEN Jump Hour x Nico Leonard features a classic mechanical jump hour complication, with the current hour displayed via an aperture near the top of the dial, and the minutes below (you’ll also find Leonard’s “Pride and Pinion” logo just under the minute aperture). The tonneau shaped case measures 34mm across, 45mm lug to lug, and 9.7mm tall, and is mounted to a custom FKM rubber strap. Three dial colors will be available: black, green, and red. Since all pieces are being made to order, an order window will run from April 7th to the 13th, with delivery planned for late November 2025. More information about the MAEN Jump Hour x Nico Leonard can be found here. One Battle After Another : Official Trailer Last week we brought you the teaser for the teaser – now the full trailer is here and there’s been a great deal of speculation as to what this movie will be about as PTA isn’t exactly known for giving the general public a ton of info beforehand. With the release of the official trailer, it’s seemingly confirmed that the final titl...
Deployant
New and Reviewed: Citizen Series 8 831 with video
Released on February 21, 2025, we got our hands-on the new Citizen Series 8 831 for a few weeks, and bring you this detailed review of the novelty.
Fratello
The Breitling Pop-Up Museum In Zurich And Why You Should Visit - Chapter 3: Land
On February 1st, Fratello published the second chapter dedicated to Breitling’s Then & Now Pop-Up Museum in Zurich. Today, we come to the final chapter, featuring Breitling’s third universe - landborne watches. As mentioned in the previous chapters, under Georges Kern’s leadership, Breitling has returned to the three universes of Air, Land, and Sea with […] Visit The Breitling Pop-Up Museum In Zurich And Why You Should Visit - Chapter 3: Land to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
New Release: Raúl Pagès RP2 - White Agate follows Soberly Onyx. Independent Watchmaking at its Best!
Raúl Pagès goal for the RP2 was to design a timeless classic, where purity of form meets technical excellence. A watch that would serve as the foundation of his collection for years to come. Every detail, from the clean lines to the entirely in-house movement, reflects his pursuit of balance between apparent simplicity and absolute refinement.
Fratello
My First Gold Watch: An IWC Cal. 8531
Once again, we find ourselves with an article by yours truly on an IWC. Oh well, I’ve bought another vintage watch from International Watch Company Schaffhausen. It’s starting to become a bit of a running joke. This time, though, I haven’t gone for steel. Instead, I bought my very first gold watch. I seem to […] Visit My First Gold Watch: An IWC Cal. 8531 to read the full article.