Revolution
Mr Talking Hands: Size Matters
Size matters surprisingly little when considering a watch. That is, until it’s too late. But what does it mean for a watch to be the right size?
Results for Côtes de Genève
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Revolution
SJX Watches
Citizen Combines Japanese Paper Dials and Cutting-Edge Quartz
Long available only to the Japanese domestic market, Citizen’s top-of-the-line quartz watches have been slowly making their way into foreign countries in recent years (although last year’s high-end mechanical Caliber 0200 was launched internationally). The latest high-end quartz model, however, is being launched globally. The Citizen Iconic Nature Collection is a quartet of lightweight titanium watches featuring dials made of traditional, translucent Japanese paper dyed in vivid, natural colours. But the mechanics are cutting edge in contrast – a solar-powered quartz movement accurate to within five seconds a year. Initial thoughts Citizen’s ultra-accurate quartz watches are largely unknown outside of Japan, but that is gradually changing with the global rollout of new models, which are crucially dressed in eye-catching colours instead of the muted dials historically found on these watches. Citizen has used washi for dials on The Citizen before, but usually in a low-key white. The new Iconic Nature quartet calls to mind high-end quartz watches from Citizen’s Japanese rival, though Citizen’s offering edges ahead, at least on paper. The solar-powered A060 inside the Iconic Nature is accurate to +/- 5 seconds per year, while the Grand Seiko 9F movement is rated to +/- 10 seconds per year. And the practicality of the A060 is boosted by a perpetual calendar as well as an “on-demand” power reserve indicator. The price tag of US$3,500 is might seem high for an...
SJX Watches
Retro Dive Watch Specialist Squale Unveils the 1521 Montredo
Derived from Italian for “shark”, Squale was a maker of dive watches – as well as a supplier of dive watch cases to many notable brands – that had its heyday in the 1960s and 1970s. Like most of its peers, Squale went under during the Quartz Crisis, lying dormant until 2005 when it was revived by its onetime distributor in Italy. The reborn Squale is focused once again on dive watches, with its current lineup modelled on the brand’s historical products. The flagship is the 1521, an affordable, no-frills dive watch that’s been pared back even further with the limited-edition Montredo x Squale 1521. Initial thoughts Retro dive watches are common today, especially in Squale’s price segment of under US$2,000. But Squale manages to set it apart by having historical legitimacy unlike startup brands. The Montredo edition stands out for its minimalism. The outline of the watch has been retained, but the details have been reduced to the essentials, like the bezel with only five-minute markers. The result brings to mind the military-issue dive watches of the 1970s and 1980s, most notably the Fifty Fathoms “Bund” that Blancpain supplied to the German navy – which coincidentally had a case made by Squale. In fact, the Fifty Fathoms “Bund” relied on the very “50 Atmos” case Squale used for its ref. 1521 diver, making the Montredo edition a tidy historical throwback. Ref. 1521 The 50-piece run is a collaboration between Squale and Montredo, a Berlin-based ...
Time+Tide
Why I bought my Electricianz Blackout, a well-made novelty piece that’s full of quirky fun
I bought my Electricianz Blackout as a novelty souvenir, but it has proved to be an enjoyable and well-made watch that shares its lineage with another well-known brand. In September of 2019, I flew from my home in Christchurch, New Zealand, to attend the very first Watchfest in Sydney Australia. This was a great, locally … ContinuedThe post Why I bought my Electricianz Blackout, a well-made novelty piece that’s full of quirky fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Montblanc Flexes With The New Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy
A fountain pen’s nib is the source of its magic. Yes, there are many beautiful pens out there but without a great nib a pretty pen is just a pretty pen. A good pen point can transform an ordinary writing experience into a memorable melding of mind and hand. Montblanc’s new Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy Lacquer is a desirable pen by any measure, not the least of which is contributed to by its 18-karat gold flexible nib.
Time+Tide
WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato going for nearly twice its retail price
Editor’s Note: We recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the Rolex 2022 price hikes to see which models were most affected and what that meant for buyers worldwide. Today we are going to dive … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato going for nearly twice its retail price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
ZACH’S MAILBAG: The best “adventure” watches under $1,000
Editor’s Note: Often we receive questions via email and social media from our readers, and we always strive to respond to each and every one. But we recognise that many of you, even if you have yet to reach out, may be pondering the same questions. In this week’s mailbag, we consider some of the … ContinuedThe post ZACH’S MAILBAG: The best “adventure” watches under $1,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Parmigiani La Rose Carrée: A Perfect Symbiosis Of Geometry, Nature, And Horology
The Fibonacci number sequence is a discovery of mathematics and nature that has both amazed and confounded the scientific community for centuries. And it is the inspiration for the stunning engravings on the unique La Rose Carrée, a masterfully restored grande sonnerie minute repeater pocket watch made to celebrate the twenty-fifth anniversary of Parmigiani and launched to mark the seventieth birthday of the brand’s founder and master restorer, Michel Parmigiani.
Time+Tide
THE MONTHLY EDIT: The Time+Tide team picks their favourite watch of January 2022
If you ask the Time+Tide editorial team what we do, unanimously we’ll agree that we are first and foremost watch journalists. At least for me, the mere idea of being an influencer in my role as Deputy Editor irks me. I do not want to influence your decision making, but I take pride in receiving … ContinuedThe post THE MONTHLY EDIT: The Time+Tide team picks their favourite watch of January 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck
Astronomical complications to track sun, moon and earth are given an ultra-modern and edgy face in Ulysse Nardin’s Blast Moonstruck.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: “New Old Stock” Rolex Milgauss Ref. 1019 and F.P. Journe Octa Chrono 38 mm
A newcomer to the world of watch auctions, Loupe This was founded by a pair of industry veterans and operates in a distinctly 21st century manner: sales are conducted entirely online, with about ten watches on the block at any one time. The offerings on Loupe This are diverse. In December 2021 it sold an example of our Habring2 Erwin “Star” for US$15,400 including fees, while the latest to go under the hammer are two interesting, long-discontinued watches from notable watchmakers based in Geneva – but otherwise radically different. One is the a Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 – in pristine, “new old stock” condition – and the other, an F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe 38 mm. Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 Produced from 1960 to 1988, the ref. 1019 was the longest-running reference of the Milgauss, the brand’s famous magnetism-resistant watch conceived for engineers and nuclear scientists. Despite the lengthy production run, the ref. 1019 is relatively rare because the model wasn’t produced in sizeable numbers for the simple reason that it didn’t sell well. In fact, Rolex discontinued the Milgauss altogether in 1988, before reviving it some two decades later. While the rarity certainly boosts its appeal, the ref. 1019 is attractive and unusual for being one of the most fuss-free Rolex “Professional” sports watch. The ref. 1019 is also the simplest version of the Milgauss, doing without the rotating bezel or “lightning” seconds hand found on earlier models. It ...
Deployant
Review: The Moritz Grossmann Hamatic in Rose Gold
In the thick of the digital age, mechanical watchmaking finds itself in pursuit of greater efficiency within the confines of an antiquated paradigm. The coming of the quartz movement and the smartphone has made certain that mechanical watches can scarcely compare to its modern counterparts in terms of functionality. And yet mechanical watchmaking thrives today.Read More
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price
There is a reason why many microbrands choose a diver as their first offering. It’s a category of watches that is not only robust but offers the brand a platform to say a lot through its design. From the bezel to the case, nothing is off limits when it comes to creating a diver. Thus, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: Clean and serene, the new TAG Heuer Autavia COSC GMT carries no excess baggage
It’s no secret at Time+Tide that I am a bit of a GMT fiend. There is just something about that complication that gets my horological juices flowing. Which means when a brand decides to release a GMT, I’m all over it. Will it have a classic design? How will the lume be? How will the … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Clean and serene, the new TAG Heuer Autavia COSC GMT carries no excess baggage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
OUR TOP WATCH REVIEW OF 2021: The Casio G-Shock GA2100-1A ‘CasiOak’
Editor’s note: Over the last few weeks, we’ve delved into the Top 30 watch reviews of 2021 on the Time+Tide website, crunching the numbers to compare the traffic on the hundreds of watches we explored. So which watch took out the top spot? Something high-end like the meteorite-dial Rolex Daytona or the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American … ContinuedThe post OUR TOP WATCH REVIEW OF 2021: The Casio G-Shock GA2100-1A ‘CasiOak’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Chronograph 41 mm Ref. 26240
In addition to new time-and-date models – led by the “Jumbo” ref. 16202 – Audemars Piguet revamped a few complicated Royal Oaks for the model’s 50th anniversary. At the top end of the complications line up is the flying tourbillon, while the most affordable is the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm ref. 26240. Like last year’s solid-gold Royal Oak chronograph on a strap, the new ref. 26240 is equipped with the cal. 4401, the brand’s latest-generation chronograph movement that made its debut in the Code 11.59 Chronograph. All 50th anniversary Royal Oak watches produced in 2022 have 22k pink gold rotors bearing the anniversary emblem, but plated to match the case colour Initial thoughts Technically speaking, the ref. 26240 is less of a new launch because the gold version was introduced last year. What sets it apart is the bracelet; last year’s model was available only on a strap. But ref. 26240 is newsworthy as it marks the first time a Royal Oak Chronograph (ROC) in steel – historically the metal of choice for the Royal Oak – is fitted with an in-house movement. The cal. 4401 is certainly an upgrade over the Frédéric Piguet cal. 1185 that equipped past versions of the ROC. The new movement has almost everything a high-end sports chronograph should have, such as a vertical clutch and column wheel, while also having extras like a flyback function for immediate restart of the chronograph. Notably, the cal. 4401 also improves the balance of the dial...
Time+Tide
How the IWC Big Pilot became a true modern classic
Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. This week, it’s the IWC … ContinuedThe post How the IWC Big Pilot became a true modern classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why I fell for two-tone and bought the Rolex Submariner 126613LB
Allow me to preface this piece with some full disclosure. I purchased this watch with my own money. It isn’t on loan from anyone and I can assure you the credit-card balance is very real and on my mind every month. For those who are interested in such things, I purchased it new from my … ContinuedThe post Why I fell for two-tone and bought the Rolex Submariner 126613LB appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Midnight Borealis & Sunset (Live Pics)
Although fashion trends in the watch world tend to move a lot slower than trends in other industries, the current loop of obsessing over a new dial colour or case material each year seems to be running through its options incredibly quickly. In 2020, we saw the domination of the bronze case, 2021 witnessed a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Midnight Borealis & Sunset (Live Pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Dandy Watches: What They Are And Why You Might Consider One – Reprise
As there is no official, universally accepted, or legally binding description of what a dandy watch is, Martin Green takes it upon himself to coin one. A dandy (like Martin) doesn't follow fashion, but walks to the beat of his own drum. Here Martin shares a few watches that he thinks are just dandy.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Fans Defend Panerai’s Abuse with Zealous Indifference
Characterized by "complicated," if not "abusive," masochistic Panerai fans have learned to love the hurt. Feel all about their pain here!
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary Silver Panda
Reviving or reinterpreting classic icons is usually a safe bet for watch manufacturers, speaking to both longstanding fans as well as newcomers seeking vintage vibes in the modern era. For the 60th Anniversary of the beloved Autavia line, TAG Heuer has reached into their rich archives to introduce a new take on one of their … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary Silver Panda appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: LVMH Watch Week, Oris unVAILings, Royal Oak revolution and Grand Seiko strikes again
This week was action-packed, with tons of new novelties for watch fans to explore. LVMH Watch Week debuted new collections across all four brands: Bulgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith. You can check out our novelty overviews by clicking on those aforementioned brand names, or search “LVMH Watch Week” to discover what we have covered … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: LVMH Watch Week, Oris unVAILings, Royal Oak revolution and Grand Seiko strikes again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the All-New 37 mm Royal Oak Ref. 15550
With 2022 being the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet has already launched a slew of new models barely a month into the year. While the headline watches are no doubt the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 and its skeletonised sibling, the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm ref. 15550 is a more accessible watch, both in terms of price and availability. It too gets an upgrade for the 50th anniversary in the form of a new movement, the cal. 5900, along with a revamped case, dial, and bracelet. Initial thoughts As familiar as it might seem, the ref. 15550 received as complete a makeover as possible while still retaining the trademark design. Individually the changes are minor but together they create a watch that looks and feels better than the previous version of the mid-size Royal Oak. The tweaks can be spotted even at arm’s length, including the streamlined dial that has been cleaned up to reduce the text, giving it a look similar to that found on the latest-generation Royal Oak 41 mm ref. 15500. The newly minimalist dial works especially well with the mid-size case, with the empty space looking just right. In contrast, the dial style seems almost bland on its larger counterpart. Two lines of text have been eliminated: “AP” at 12 o’clock and “AUTOMATIC” at six The case and bracelet also get their own nips and tucks, though the alterations are far more subtle. Amongst the changes are slightly wider bevels along the edge of the case, making it seem to tap...
Hodinkee
Interview: Mystery Solved: Here's Who Bought That Tiffany-Blue Patek 5711 At Phillips
The inside story of how Zach Lu went from underbidder to big winner.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger”
With 2022 being the Year of the Tiger in the Chinese Zodiac, tiger-themed watches started to proliferate since late last year. One of the most striking tiger-themed watches is also one of the most discreet, revealing its roaring tiger only on the reverse. The Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger” is a sharp but simple on the front, while its reverse depicts a tiger leaping out of the clouds. Unusually, the decoration combines both enamel and engraving, making it more elaborate than the typical enamelled Reverso. Initial thoughts The quintessential enamelled Reverso is a miniature painting in polychrome enamel – a specialty of Jaeger-LeCoultre since the 1990s. The Reverso “Tiger” in contrast, is a stately black and gold. Even though the “Tiger” dials back on the colours, it is a striking and beautiful watch. The simplicity at a distance gives away to detail when you examine the roaring tiger on the back, which is executed in low relief. It leaps out of a black background that is actually fired enamel. At the same time, this combination of figurative engraving in addition to enamel is a first for Jaeger-LeCoultre, at least in recent years, making the “Tiger” a rather special watch. Naturally the elaborate decoration comes at a price – €90,000 before taxes to be exact. That’s about US$100,000 and about the same as past Reverso models with miniature enamel paintings. Delicate work The engraved tiger takes form after the back has been enamelled. So the process ...
Hodinkee
Interview: Frédéric Arnault On Rising Prices, Naomi Osaka, And NFTs
The young TAG Heuer CEO has trained his eye on the future: "We can't rely on Steve McQueen for decades to come."
Time+Tide
Jason Statham wears a green dial Panerai Radiomir in Guy Ritchie’s latest flick
Sometimes I wonder if I will ever watch a movie or any piece of film without my eyes searching the screen for a watch. On multiple occasions, I’ve stopped a movie mid-way just to find out what’s on an actor’s wrist. And today, it feels like I’ve hit a new low. Not even an action-movie … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham wears a green dial Panerai Radiomir in Guy Ritchie’s latest flick appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Hublot launches three new scratch-resistant iterations of the Big Bang Sang Bleu II in ceramic and Magic Gold
Hublot have never had any issues with realising bold, eyeball-grabbing designs and exploring a range of colours and materials that other brands have yet to even attempt to tackle. But sometimes two minds are greater than one. Once again, Hublot has partnered with Swiss tattoo artist Maxine Plescia-Buchi to continue their saga of Sang Bleu … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Hublot launches three new scratch-resistant iterations of the Big Bang Sang Bleu II in ceramic and Magic Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
All of the 42 new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th anniversary releases of 2022
Editor’s Note: Audemars Piguet did not hold back this week, starting off 2022 with a revamped Royal Oak Collection in honour of the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak. So we’re offering a quick overview of all the new novelties we are allowed to share from the AP Social Club event – touching on each new reference … ContinuedThe post All of the 42 new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th anniversary releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.