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Quill & Pad
Alexander Doerr had never really paid much attention to opals before, but upon closer inspection he realized this gemstone is extraordinary – shrouded in mystery and well worth learning more about. Looking at an opal is like looking at fireworks or even looking into a galaxy. And, as he learned, two Swiss watch brands specialize in using the fiery gemstone in watches: Jaquet Droz and Piaget.
SJX Watches
When I first got wind of the newly-opened watchmaking school in Cambodia, I was surprised. And when I found out the school was a world-class institution fully equipped with brand-new, top-of-the-line equipment and staffed by veteran instructors from Switzerland, with local students studying for free – I was sceptical. I am ashamed to admit, I was wrong. There is a world-class watchmaking school in Phnom Penh, one with ambitions that go well beyond merely training technicians to overhaul watches. Freshly set up and filled with the very best equipment – including brand-new, full-spec Schaublin lathes and the latest Leica microscopes – the Prince Horology Vocational Training Center is a no-expense-spared project that’s likely the most impressive watchmaking academy outside of Switzerland. And another classroom, with the micro-mechanics machine shop at the back Backed by a local real estate conglomerate, the school will conduct a two-year programme similar to the de facto industry standard, the 3,000-hour course offered by Swiss academy WOSTEP (short for Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program). Both theoretical and practical, the school’s syllabus encompasses the theoretical, for instance lessons on the history and culture of watchmaking, as well as benchwork, including machining, micro-mechanics, and production of components like the winding stem and balance staff. At the same time, because the school is the brainchild of timepiece co...
![New: [Re]master01 Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 40mm with price and specs](https://i0.wp.com/deployant.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/26595SR-OO-A032VE-01_Still_Life_04_ORIGINAL.jpg?fit=1200%2C1019&ssl=1)
Deployant
We just received this Press Release and excited with the new Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph. Details here.
Time+Tide
Louis Cartier has an important place in the history of the Cartier company, not only because he ran the first-ever Paris boutique but because he was responsible for one of the most enigmatic creations the brand released, the Cartier Mystery Clock. The origins of the Mystery Clock are found in 1912, when Louis Cartier began … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why Cartier clockmaking is a mystery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It is becoming increasingly common to see small, emerging microbrands threaten to “pull back the curtain” on the luxury watch industry, in an attempt to upend the established order and claim a slice of the suddenly democratised pie for themselves. But how effective, or even responsible a strategy is it? Is it time to stop … ContinuedThe post Mystery Vs. Transparency in luxury watchmaking – how much do you really want to know? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
One of Asia’s quickest growing economies, Cambodia remains a relatively small market for mechanical watches, but now boasts its own watchmaking school – led by a pair of former WOSTEP instructors – which will begin operations in mid 2020. Supported by a local real estate conglomerate, the Prince Horology Vocational Training Center will offer a full-time, two-year course in watchmaking. Totalling some 3,400 hours of training, the watchmaking course will be comprehensive and modelled on the education offered by Swiss watchmaking schools. Designed by a team that includes a former director of WOSTEP, Switzerland’s leading watchmaking school, the course includes watchmaking history and culture, toolmaking and maintenance, repair and servicing of both mechanical and quartz watches, as well as some parts production. Filled with brand new equipment, the school is ready for its first students Located in the Chrouy Changvar district of central Phnom Penh, the country’s capital, the Prince Horology Vocational Training Center recently opened its premises, which are fully equipped with brand new benches and tools, giving students the opportunity to learn both watch repair as well as movement part production and finishing. The school’s leadership team includes Jessica Thakur, formerly an instructor at Richemont’s American watchmaking school in Texas and then at WOSTEP, as well as Maarten Pieters, who was the director of WOSTEP from 2002 to 2018. Prior to that, Mr Pieters ...
SJX Watches
Shaped like an extraterrestrial seashell, the De Bethune Dream Watch 5 (DW5) is the brand’s most striking timepiece. It’s simple in function – showing just the time and moon phase – but more of a time-telling object than a mere watch. The new Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia is the opposite of the sleek, smooth finish of the original Dream Watch. The rose gold case is fully engraved with a motif from Les Cités obscures, or The Obscure Cities, a series of graphic novels by Belgian duo François Schuiten and Benoît Peeters. Specifically, the engraving depicts Armilia, an underground city of the novels that’s shaped like an armillary sphere. François Schuiten’s original drawing of Armilia Responsible for the engraving is Michele Rothen Rebetez, a freelance engraver based in Le Locle who has worked with De Bethune for several years, most recently on the Maestri Art I and II. Instead of the deeper, relief engraving that Ms Rothen Rebetez typically uses for watches, the DW5 Armilia is finished with banknote style engraving, made up of numerous fine, shallow lines to create depth and shadow. The DW5 is produced in two sizes, and the DW5 Armilia is in the larger, 58mm size. Mechanically, it is identical to the standard DW5, with the time indicated in a narrow window, along with the spherical moon phase display, both framed in blued titanium. The cal is 18k rose gold, while the crown is topped with a 1-carat blue sapphire. Key facts and price Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia R...
Time+Tide
More than 200 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed as an official chronometer maker of the French Navy, and the tradition lives on today in the Breguet Marine 5517. The 5517 is a robust sports watch, machined in a lightweight titanium that almost perfectly matches the deep-grey dial tone, and offers a host of details … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Maritime mastery with the Breguet Marine 5517 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Hands on analytical review in detail: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms "Nageurs de combat", with high resolution photographs and technical details.
Time+Tide
Like it or not, the origin story of Blancpain’s famous diver is inseparable from that of naval warfare. The development of the original watch was driven by two men, Captain Robert Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, who were in charge of a newly formed French unit, the Combat Swimmers - or Nageurs de Combat. They … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms ‘Nageurs de Combat’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Call me a romantic, but the moon phase complication is amongst my favourites. Paradoxically, it’s also amongst the least functional - tracking the waxing and waning of our most significant satellite isn’t something that’s high on my list of life priorities. And when the topic does come up, I can, you know, look at the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Blue moon rising – Raymond Weil’s Maestro Moon Phase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
One of the Raymond Weil’s great strengths has always been stylish, sharp, everyday dress pieces, something that’s really epitomised in the Maestro line. Well, at Basel that line got a little bigger, with the addition of three new, blue-dialled options. These watches, like many things in the world of Raymond Weil, take their inspiration from … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Chase the blues away – 3 new models added to Raymond Weil’s classical Maestro family appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Christophe Claret presents the Maestro Mamba, two new venomous pieces to rule the horological jungle. Leaving the joke away, the brand presents two watches inspired by the African jungle snake - the Mamba.
Deployant
Review of Christophe Claret Maestro, with price, hands-on analysis and live high resolution photographs.
Time+Tide
Some LA prop masters may be able to take credit for Ryan Gosling’s consistently excellent choices in vintage wristwear – and you’re welcome to correct us if you know, or are one of them – but for now, we’re going to put forward the idea that he has something to do with choosing them himself. … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: Do you know what the mystery vintage Omega Gosling wears in La La Land is? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Deployant
The Junghans Meister Kalendar Moonphase is the most classical and a great vintage watch with modern aesthetics for the beginner collector.
Revolution
When Cartier presented in January the Rotonde de Cartier Mystery timepieces, we were so enthusiastic about these timepieces and the fact that Cartier launched again new watches with Mystery movements, that we almost forgot to report about the new Mystery clocks, that were also presented at the SIHH in January. 2006 was the last time […]
Worn & Wound
Doomsday preppers and the most hardcore of watch collectors are in for a real treat. German watch manufacturer Laco is doubling down on the success of its Atacama.2 by introducing the Atacama Quarz UTC. It’s a more affordable and focused watch with a new trick up its sleeve: GMT functionality. Primarily known for their excellent pilot watches, Laco has collaborated closely with German soldiers, firefighters, and other action-oriented professionals to hone their “Squad and Sport” timepieces. It only takes a glance to understand. You can learn a lot about this watch in its name. It’s still an Atacama, which means it shares the same PVD-coated treatment, date complication, rubber strap, unidirectional bezel, and matte dial as the Atacama.2. But now it’s powered by quartz, “Quarz” in German, and features an independent GMT – or UTC – hand. The new watch is 46mm in diameter, but the Ronda 515 GMT quartz movement inside has enabled Laco to slim the watch down to 10.5mm with a “contact area” of just 34mm. This is also in part due to the conical shape of the case, allowing the watch to feel much smaller and comfortable on the wrist than its maximum diameter may suggest. The use of black PVD-coating and generous amounts of lume on the hands, dial, and bezel result in a watch that is supremely legible to its wearer while remaining subdued to would-be onlookers (or enemies). The crown at twelve o-clock is integrated into and protected by the articulating lugs. D...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Timekeeping standards are suddenly cool again. Omega has been steadily touting the benefits of their Master Chronometer certification, Patek has their own standards, and Rolex recently upped their game with the Superlative Chronometer Standard. But what is it? This article from a while back explains everything you need to know. Since 1951, nearly … ContinuedThe post What is the Rolex Superlative Chronometer Standard and why does it matter? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega Constellation To start you off this week with something a little fancy, this vintage Omega Constellation. This one has to be from the late 1970s or early 1980s judging from the design. It has a slim (34mm) square steel case with a square dial and integrated bracelet. It’s not blingy, but I call it fancy because it just has that slim almost 80’s look that just seems….fancy. The silver dial has a vertical texture to it, with slim markers and slimmer hands. The original crystal has a date magnifier for the date window at 3 o’clock. The recessed crown is signed with the Omega logo as it should be. The steel bracelet is also signed and integrated into the case. The caseback medallion is engraved instead of the applied gold one often seen on the Constellations. No movement pictures but it runs well per the seller. View auction here Vintage LED Watch It’s been a minute since I found a good LED watch, but this week I found a fun one. This one appears to be unbranded, which is unusual. It has the classic vintage LED space age style case. The case is a good size at 35mm and in nice condition, with sharp edges and original brushed finish. The red LED window is good as...
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Monochrome
When it comes to ceramics, Rado is the brand that comes to mind. Rado presented its first ceramic watch in 1986, just 40 years ago… This anniversary marks not only a technological breakthrough, but also the beginning of a long-standing expertise that has become a signature. This special occasion allows us to sit down with […]
Revolution
Monochrome
In 2024, indie watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin unveiled the ThinKing watch as a bold attempt to set a world record: an exceptionally thin mechanical wristwatch measuring just 1.65mm. Holding this watch in your hand is simply incredible – the extreme slenderness is astonishing, and the technical achievement behind it is truly impressive. Since then, he has […]
Revolution
Revolution
Video
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