Hodinkee
Dispatch: Inside The Swatch Sistem51 Factory
How exactly does one fully automate the making of a mechanical movement?
Results for Equation of Time
35,442 articles · 155 videos found · page 652 of 1187
Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
Before You Buy the Tudor Ranger
When the Tudor Ranger was reintroduced in 2022, it represented a missing element to the Tudor catalog. It represents a bygone era of watchmaking from Tudor and Rolex, with watches like the Oyster Prince, and Rolex Explorer 1016, to significant effect. During Dubai Watch Week 2025, they surprised us with an extension to
Fratello
Hands-On: The New ISOfrane VS 1969 Straps
ISOfrane straps have a special place in diving history. As a 1960s creation, the original model became a fixture for divers due to its flexibility, durability, and comfort. Today, modern versions of the straps are used both for their original purpose and as everyday accompaniments. Until now, though, only one design was available. Today, we […] Visit Hands-On: The New ISOfrane VS 1969 Straps to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Complicated Collectors: Henry Graves Jr.
By the early 1930s, Henry Graves Jr lived a life shaped by precision, inheritance, and permanence. It was from this vantage - both social and literal - that he took up residence behind the limestone façade of 834 Fifth Avenue, Rosario Candela’s neo-Renaissance co-operative that replaced hulking mansions with what contemporary coverage called “a series of luxurious homes” in a building that was promised to be “a worthy and lasting landmark”. The promise held: in 2007 the New York Observer called the address “the most pedigreed building on the snobbiest street in the country’s most real estate–obsessed city.” This reputation was sustained in part by its prodigious roster of illustrious owners, from Berwind and Rockefeller to Murdoch and Blavatnik, names that reflect the same social altitude that drew Graves there in the first place. 834 Fifth Avenue where Henry Graves Jr. lived when he received the Supercomplication in 1933. Image – The New York Public Library/collage. From the window of his high apartment, Graves could watch the constellations lift over the dark mass of branches and the curving drives, the lamps along the park paths thinning as the air cleared towards the river. Inside, in a room lined with paintings and prints, a heavy yellow gold watch lay on a table. Opened on its reverse dial, it carried that same sky, compressed into enamel and gold, calculated for this exact latitude and this exact view. The Supercomplication framed the night ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Best Mickey Mouse Watches: History and Highlights
Mickey Mouse is one of the world’s most iconic and recognizable characters and the smiling face of Disney Entertainment, whose vast universe of properties today encompasses everything from Cinderella to Spider-Man to Star Wars. The world first discovered Mickey way back in 1928, in the groundbreaking black-and-white cartoon Steamboat Willie. It was one of the very first cartoon films with synchronized sound and a milestone achievement for Mickey’s co-creator, Walt Disney, who had founded his eponymous animation studio with his brother Roy O. Disney five years earlier, in 1923. Today, that studio is a worldwide force in entertainment and Mickey Mouse’s image can be found on just about every type of merchandise you can imagine - including wristwatches from a surprisingly diverse range of producers and at a wide range of price points. Nearly a century after first appearing on a watch’s dial, Mickey Mouse continues to claim a small but enduringly popular niche in the world of horology. Here is a brief overview of Mickey Mouse watches from the 1930s to Disney’s centennial year of 2023. [toc-section heading="Ingersoll-Waterbury and the First Mickey Mouse Watch"] Photo Credit: Secondhand Horology Mickey’s instant popularity with audiences was such that it was only five years after his debut that the character found himself on the dial of a wristwatch. The circumstances behind the creation of the first Mickey Mouse watch, produced by the American watchmaker Inge...
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Vertex M36, a Compact Take on the British Field Watch
By now, the history of the Dirty Dozen military watches is probably well known to just about everyone who would be reading an article like this, but here is a brief overview for any of you stragglers. Over 80 years ago, as World War II was raging on, the British Ministry of Defence (M.O.D.) saw […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Breguet's Year-End Showstopper Is The New 'Experimentale 1' With 10Hz Magnetic Constant Force Escapement Tourbillon
The first in a planned series of Experimentale watches, the watch also features a redesigned "Marine" case and dial aesthetic on top of a very impressive movement.
Time+Tide
Three British brands show us how to leverage heritage in modern watchmaking
Three British brands visited our Time+Tide Discovery Studio to demonstrate 3 distinct approaches to leveraging heritage in the modern era.The post Three British brands show us how to leverage heritage in modern watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Portrait - In Conversation With Volan’s Diederik van Golen, A Returning Watchmaker
Whenever we can shine a little light on something interesting that has to do with watches coming from the Netherlands, we tend to get a little bit extra excited. Call us chauvinistic, but we’re proud of the things that are being done in our small country. So when we learned that someone we knew quite […]
Fratello
Introducing: Two Simply Irresistible 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Watches
The big trend is “small.” And “thin.” Well, those two words perfectly describe the new 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. Not only is the diameter a size “S,” but it also has an 8.43mm case thickness, making it worthy of the “Ultra-Thin” moniker. The pink gold version is the most modern of the […] Visit Introducing: Two Simply Irresistible 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - Mido’s Multifort 8 Two Crowns in Rose Gold PVD and Black
When Mido introduced the Multifort 8 Two Crowns earlier this year, it was clear the brand had found a confident voice within the competitive world of integrated sports watches. Compact, slim, and thoughtfully detailed, it proved that good design, reliable movement and fair price still matter. Now, Mido expands the series with the Multifort 8 […]
Fratello
You Can Find Me In Da Club: Introducing The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Street Art Editions
Put your 34mm 1960s-inspired dress watch aside for a moment. Turn your watch-snobbery hat backwards for a second. Swap your tortoise-shell glasses for colored lenses for a night. Are you ready for a bit of a party as we approach the year’s end? Yes? All right, let’s dive into the new Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 […] Visit You Can Find Me In Da Club: Introducing The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Street Art Editions to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak
One of the standout releases from Dubai Watch Week was the UR-Freak, a collaboration between Ulysse Nardin (UN) and Urwerk that embodies some of the most enduring motifs of each brand. More UN than Uwerk, the UR-Freak nonetheless incorporate’s the latter’s satellite wandering hours display, adapted to the Freak’s slow-moving flying tourbillon. A limited run of just 100 individually numbered pieces, the UR-Freak confers some of Urwerk’s disruptive cache to UN, a legacy brand celebrating its 180th anniversary next year. The wandering hours tourbillon To understand why the UR-Freak is such a compelling collaboration, one must understand what UN and Urwerk bring to the table, respectively. The UN Freak turns 25 in 2026, marking a quarter-century of the quirky tourbillon that introduced silicon to watchmaking. That innovation alone would have secured the Freak’s place in watchmaking history, but it was arguably more memorable for its unusual design that put much of the movement (including the escapement) on a rotating platform on the dial. The Freak One is an example of the typical Freak architecture. Ulysse Nardin refers to this architecture as a flying carousel, perhaps to differentiate the standard models from those with a nested tourbillon. Nomenclature aside, it’s technically a tourbillon by nature of its operation, which powers the escapement through a fixed-ring gear (which can be seen around the edge of the dial). In all previous Freak models to date, the mo...
Teddy Baldassarre
Best Rolex Watches For Women: From Ladies To Unisex
The Crown has a rich history of watchmaking for women dating back to Rolex’s infancy. After all, it was women who first began wearing watches on their wrists in the late 18th century, while men still preferred pocket watches before the convenience and utility of military field watches began to proliferate. Rolex’s first high-profile endorsement of its revolutionary waterproof Oyster case was worn by a female athlete, slung around the neck of British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze as she attempted to swim across the English Channel. Gleitz might not have made it all the way across on that try, but the watch came out unscathed after 10 hours in the cold water, ticking the time away accurately, making for amazing marketing fodder. Here in the 21st century, Rolex still offers a catalog with extensive sizing options and decorations on its most popular models. Of course, anyone can wear any watch they like, but there are several pieces that, as a woman myself, I find uniquely more compelling than others. So, we’re gathered here today to go on a journey through what I find to be the best Rolex watches for women available today, rounded up into a digestible guide for your reading pleasure. [toc-section heading="Lady-Datejust"] It only feels right to begin with the only Rolex model family that directly references a female consumer in its naming conventions. I get the argument that some think the name “Lady-Datejust” feels a bit dated, maybe even gauche (even bringing to...
Time+Tide
The De Rijke & Co. Capri proves minimalism can be sculptural
This design-forward Dutch brand's dress watch features a unique case, with a dramatically curved sapphire crystal and cleverly hidden lugs.The post The De Rijke & Co. Capri proves minimalism can be sculptural appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Video: Stephen Forsey talks about the early Greubel Forsey watches
We caught up with Stephen Forsey at the Greubel Forsey Farmhouse in La Chaux-du-Fonds and bring you this discussion of the early timepieces by the maison.
Monochrome
Just Because - The Best on the Back, Seven More Watches with Drop-Dead Gorgeous Movements
Continuing on from last week’s Just Because story showcasing a selection of the most tantalising backsides, we revisit the topic to show you some more of the finest movements we’ve seen in our year-round watch journey. We bring together watches from indies, as well as established brands, for the sheer joy of looking at the […]
Fratello
The Trend Continues: Monobrand Watch Boutiques Are On A Continuous Rise
Do you prefer mono or stereo? And what about quadraphonic or surround sound? I suspect most of you will answer these questions with anything but “mono.” But mono is the trend when it comes to retail in the world of watches. Monobrand watch boutiques are on a continuous rise. As a watch fan, you, more […] Visit The Trend Continues: Monobrand Watch Boutiques Are On A Continuous Rise to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Franck Muller ditches subtlety for high jewellery with the Round Triple Mystery
Strictly speaking, this is the least mysterious 'Mystery' watch Franck Muller has ever made - but it's no less impressive.The post Franck Muller ditches subtlety for high jewellery with the Round Triple Mystery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Hands On With The TAG Heuer Connected E5: Keeping Us In Shape!
We’ve got our hands on the new TAG Heuer Connected E5 to see how it works, and just what the benefits of owning a smart fitness watch are. What We Love The ergonomics and ease of wear The ability to customise the interface and displays Range of pre-set workouts and routines built in What We Don’t The 40mm is probably on the smaller side for some The battery life means you do need to charge it every day The interface is a little fiddly until you get used to where all the functions are Overall Score: 8 / 10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 This is a slightly different review – TAG Heuer kindly lent us a new 40mm Connected E5, and given this is not your standard mechanical watch, we needed to get it out and about to test it. I love my fitness and gym, so it was the perfect watch to get on my wrist and put it through its paces while I hit the gym and went through their daily routine. I did lend this to Sam, and seems he was exhausted after 1m:15s run, but at least he burned 4 Calories! As this is a smart watch and somewhat different to the usual mechanical pieces on our wrists, I thought this was the best approach as it’s very hard to talk about the movement in a smart watch, however, the benefits of this watch is due to its functionality and practicality for people who want to keep on top of their health and fitness, those who have goals to achieve within their chosen field of sport and exercise. With this in mind, I really ...
Deployant
New: Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Malaysia Edition
Breitling commemorates Malaysia's 68 years of independence with a new limited edition Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 with a special dial.
Fratello
Photo Report: Tudor Nazaré Big Wave Challenge 2025
It’s late afternoon on a Thursday in mid-December when the call comes in: monsters are closing in on Nazaré. State-of-the-art satellite technology has detected the perfect kinetic sweep across the Atlantic, creating ideal conditions. This monster swell is heading straight for a small fishing village two hours north of Lisbon. But it’s not alone in […] Visit Photo Report: Tudor Nazaré Big Wave Challenge 2025 to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase
Orient Star unveils three new versions of its flagship F7 Mechanical Moon Phase. Dials in white and navy blue join the regular lineup, while the light blue dial is a limited edition of 190 pieces. Having debuted in 2017, the F7 Mechanical Moon Phase combines three striking elements. The namesake moon phase sits at 6 […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase to read the full article.
Time+Tide
How British watchmaking has become synonymous with an adventurous spirit
Representatives from Nomadic Watches, Sher Watch Company, Christopher Ward, and Elliot Brown discuss their brands and watches.The post How British watchmaking has become synonymous with an adventurous spirit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The JB300 Poulpro - Jacques Bianchi’s Technical Dive Watch Evolves
The JB300 Poulpro arrives as Jacques Bianchi Marseille’s latest take on a serious dive watch. It pairs some of the frivolous style of the earlier JB200 Poulpro with a more technical, titanium-based platform. This isn’t about flash; it’s about refining a recognized design language into something even more purposeful. In dive watches, there’s a fine […] Visit Introducing: The JB300 Poulpro - Jacques Bianchi’s Technical Dive Watch Evolves to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The Voutilainen 28MPR, the Farewell Edition to the Exceptional Vingt-8 Series
Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected names in independent watchmaking. Since founding his atelier in 2002 in the Swiss Jura, the Finnish-born genius has been creating timepieces that combine the best of traditional craftsmanship with true mechanical ingenuity. His watches won’t be mistaken for someone else’s work, with elaborate guilloché dials, exceptional finishing […]
Worn & Wound
Interview: Sylvain Berneron on Building a Brand, and Rethinking Modern Watchmaking
Every few years, a new independent hits the scene with something that hits just the right notes to get all the factions of the watch world vibrating at the same frequency. However, no recent newcomer has managed to unite the watch echo chamber the way Swiss independent Berneron has. When Berneron unveiled their debut offering, the Mirage, in 2023, it was universally lauded as the most intriguing and refreshing new watch seen in ages. The Mirage was a legitimately unique take on upscale watchmaking, with a striking aesthetic and design narrative as unexpected as its asymmetrical shape and wildly ambitious bespoke movement. The Mirage’s styling was initially met with comparisons to the Cartier Crash, but the reality is its melted case shape was an elegant solution for housing the watch’s impressive mechanics–a case shrink-wrapped around a new caliber that was designed from scratch, free from the rules of traditional movement design. The Mirage was a helluva of a breakout hit; it had mystique, it was technically impressive, and it was different without resorting to arbitrary design choices. The Mirage’s success would be difficult to replicate, but with the Quantième, Berneron has both side-steped the sophomore slump and cemented the reputation of its founder and Creative Director Sylvain Berneron as a true visionary and a generational talent. The Quantième applies Berneron’s virtuosic technicality to a watch that embraces a more traditional look than the Mir...
Deployant
TGIFriday video: new wine club in Singapore - South Bridge Réserve
We met up with James Moon, the owner of South Bridge Réserve, a new wine club in Singapore, with a focus on the wines of Burgundy.
Monochrome
First Look - Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT SPB534 Seashadow
Seiko’s Prospex diver series has long established the brand´s reputation for serious underwater engineering, in particular with the 1968 300m water-resistant Professional Diver (6159), which stands as one of the brand’s earliest defining tool watches. That same character lives on in the modern Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT series, introduced in 2023 as Seiko’s first […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko SSC813 Speedtimer Review: The Best Chronograph Under $1,000?
Seiko has a well known and understood design language that is expansive in nature. It’s a style that feels just as at home on a humble skin diver as it does in the context of a field watch or chronograph. It always feels comfortable, but never derivative. Like a perfectly well worn-in pair of jeans that you keep coming back to. The Speedtimer name is a perfect example of this originality since it was first used by the brand in 1969, and it largely remains so today. The modern Speedtimer SSC813 within the Prospex collection is not entirely reliant on that history, rather, it presents a contemporary vision of a Seiko chronograph at its most accessible. [toc-section heading="Seiko And Chronographs"] Seiko plays an important role in the history of the chronograph as we experience it today. The Japanese brand’s mechanical timers of the mid ‘60s showed off a modern vision for a highly focused design that would open the door for a new generation of watches. These designs did not use a host of subdials, but rather a single timing hand and a single pusher. This is a focus that would be retained until 1969, when Seiko introduced the reference 6139, one of three automatic chronographs to be revealed that year that would shape the genre for the coming decades. Unlike the other two, the Seiko used just a single subdial which would totalize up to 30 minutes. The 6139 would have a cultural impact just as big as its horological impact, appearing in films and, in the case of the so...