Deployant
Six of the best: our celebration of independent watchmaking
We muse over the state of the independent watchmaking, and pick six of our favourites to celebrate the joys of collecting watches.
Results for Côtes de Genève
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Deployant
Time+Tide
Winter is Coming: Five Time+Tide Shop straps for the cold
In the northern hemisphere, it’s that time of year again. The rubber straps slowly retreat to your watch drawer, followed closely behind by those metal bracelets. As the temperatures decrease, the feeling of cold steel or stiff rubber on your wrist isn’t at all enjoyable. Thus we turn to the warmth of leather or the … ContinuedThe post Winter is Coming: Five Time+Tide Shop straps for the cold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Unimatic U3-FFF is a distinctive bargain of a dive watch that proves less is more
In today’s watch world, Unimatic are punching above their weight. Founded in 2015 by two Italian industrial design students, this relatively new company has established a clean and unique core style in an environment flooded with start-ups and Kickstarter watches. Often the key to good design (and indeed writing) is to edit down. Just because you … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Unimatic U3-FFF is a distinctive bargain of a dive watch that proves less is more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Antoine Preziuso’s Stella Polare Tourbillon Muonionalusta Fell From The Cosmos – Reprise
Despite all its scholarly technology, Elizabeth Doerr finds Antoine Preziuso's Stella Polare Tourbillon Muonionalusta to be far more wearable for slimmer wrists than some of his other creations. Not only that, this watch is the culmination of the independent watchmaker's journey to capture a shooting star.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #223 The Heirloom Watch
Mike and Kaz return to chat through another listener-submitted topic. This time they're running through the idea of "the heirloom watch" - a piece that's meant to be passed down and kept in the family for generations. You'll hear about watches that exist as heirloom watches in their families and which watches they'd choose to pass down to the next generation.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #217 Ruining Watch Pricing for Everyone
Mike is back, and the guys are talking about some of the most irritating factors that affect watch pricing for both new models and what you'd find on the secondary market. There's also a nice, matchy-matchy wrist check going on, some new Seiko models to chat about, and more.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #216: All About Meca-Quartz Chronographs!
This week Baird and Kaz sit down to talk all things meca-quartz chronographs - how they work, models they like, and much more. Tune in and enjoy!
SJX Watches
Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch Sells for US$5.2m
One of the most anticipated sales during Geneva’s watch auction week just concluded with a big number – the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for CHF4.749 million, or about US$5.2 million, including fees. While bidding was steady, it was restrained. Three bidders were the key movers behind the result – a phone bidders represented by Yong Ho and Alex Ghotbi of Phillips in Hong Kong and Geneva respectively, as well as an online bidder in Singapore. At the end it was down to the Singaporean buyer and Mr Ghotbi’s phone bidder, who clinched the watch with a hammer of CHF3.9 million. I wrote just earlier this week that I expected the Grande Sonnerie to sell for between US$4.0-5.0 million, so the result was well within my expectation. While there was talk of a far higher number prior to the sale, a variety of factors led me to that range, including the number of known potential buyers as well as the values of comparable watches. And that was how it turned out.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm
They say that fashion trends move in cycles, but when a design remains attractive for over a century, you’ve got to admit that it goes beyond mere stylistic whims. The Vacheron Constaintin Historiques American 1921 is unashamedly a period piece, but that’s not to say it belongs to a bygone era. It might look strange … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: A Pair of Highly Important Pocket Watches
Geneva auction week this year includes Only Watch, perhaps the headline event, but also a slew of other auctions. Over at Phillips, the majority of its Geneva watch auction catalogue comprises wristwatches, but two standouts in the sale are pocket watches, one from an independent watchmaker and the other from an establishment brand. Different as they are, the two are are indeed an epic pair. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV takes place on November 5 and 7, 2021. Lot 183 – Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Ref. 768 There are a few reasons the Patek Philippe ref. 768 is intriguing, even though they might not be obvious at a glance. For one, the ref. 798 is truly rare – Patek Philippe has only made a handful of grande sonnerie pocket watches in its history. It incorporates the most challenging complication to execute, the grande et petite sonnerie, which means the watch chimes the time as it passes. And it is a carillon, with three gongs instead of two, so that the quarter is sounded with three notes instead of the typical two. Then there’s the fact that it’s a mid-20th century Patek Philippe, a guarantee of the fine horological quality. The movement was made in 1898, but only cased up more than half a century later in 1953, and subsequently sold close to a decade after that. This example is interesting because it has a single-lidded back that sports an extra-large, relief-engraved Calatrava cross on a frosted base. According to Phillips the oversized logo ...
Time+Tide
We asked Andrew six hard-hitting questions on his first six months with the Zenith Chronomaster Sport.
During a shoot in that small window in between lockdowns in Melbourne, Andrew and I were discussing some of our favourite pieces we’d seen and tried on this year. Despite not having the usual bulk access at major fairs, we’ve still had some great watches in the office to ogle. One of the first watches … ContinuedThe post We asked Andrew six hard-hitting questions on his first six months with the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer is a well-priced daily wearer
The name Hamilton is revered for many reasons, including its rich history in the air (producing aviation watches since 1918), and the new Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer wristwatch pays tribute to its past, with two new models based on, of all things, a World War II-era pocket watch. Historically, wristwatches were an evolution of pocket … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer is a well-priced daily wearer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year?
What’s been the most visually bonkers watch of the year? Possible contenders would have to include the Louis Vuitton Carpe Diem and the MB&F; M.A.D.1 Pink Dial Project. But fresh competition now comes in the form of the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021. To be fair, the dial of the original Zenith … ContinuedThe post Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II “Only Watch”
The first Chronomètre Contemporain was the watch that vaulted Rexhep Rexhepi into the top league of independent watchmaking. Now the young watchmaker has debuted the followup, first as a unique example for Only Watch 2021. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) resembles its predecessor inside and out, yet is entirely different in every aspect, from movement construction to the geometry of the lugs. But what it does share with the RRCC I is a gorgeously finished movement and thoughtful design. Initial thoughts On the face of it, the RRCC II for Only Watch looks like the original Chronometre Contemporain dressed in another dial. But it is entirely new in practically every aspect, right down to the geometry of the case. The RRCC II is akin to a generation of the Porsche 911 – the styling seems unchanged but it is actually a brand new car. The most obvious point of difference is the seconds hand – the RRCC II is a deadbeat seconds. That in itself is novel, because the jumping seconds complication is almost always implemented with a centre seconds. In fact, I can’t think of another watch with a deadbeat subsidiary seconds that isn’t part of another complication. In F.P. Journe’s tourbillon for instance, the deadbeat seconds is part of the constant force mechanism. Even the movement appears superficially similar, though it is quickly evident that it’s a new calibre solely from the two large jewels for the barrel pivots. This has twin barrels, in...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The REISER Alpen Skeleton is an integrated bracelet watch with a fresh twist
With a watch as visually complex as the REISER Alpen Skeleton, it’s always hard to know where to begin, but perhaps the most unique aspect of its design is the signature Alpen case profile. Although the hexagonal case shape may be more than a touch familiar to most watch enthusiasts, there’s a lot more to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The REISER Alpen Skeleton is an integrated bracelet watch with a fresh twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New and reviewed: Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Complete Calendar
Vacheron Constantin adds a new white gold, slate grey dial Complete Calendar to their classically inspired Traditionelle collection.
Hodinkee
Watch Of The Week: A Ghostly Rado That Barely Tells Time
In the smartphone age, it's often said, nobody needs a watch anymore. This avant-garde design challenges us to consider all the reasons we might want one anyway.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: Reflecting on happier times, when you could go on a waiting list for a 5711, and actually get “the call”
Editor’s note: If you can get one at retail the green dial Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014 would set you back $34,893 USD. But that’s one extremely big “if”. Consequently, people are willing to pay crazy prizes for what is still a watch that only came out this year. Recently, for example, a Nautilus 5711/014 sold on … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S NOTE: Reflecting on happier times, when you could go on a waiting list for a 5711, and actually get “the call” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
A New Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Made For the 2020 Tokyo Summer Olympic Games
The winter Olympics in Beijing is scarcely three months away, and Official Timekeeper Omega has dutifully obliged with a special edition watch to mark the proceedings: the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Beijing 2022.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The CuleM Skyline GMT Collection
When it comes down to it, a watch with a GMT complication is really just a love letter to travelling. Regardless of their original purpose as pilot’s watches or otherwise, whenever someone sees a GMT their mind instantly imagines adjusting that little fourth hand to their home time while taking off to somewhere new and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The CuleM Skyline GMT Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco
A homage to famed Monaco “Dark Lord”, the TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco is unique for utilising carbon, or more specifically carbon composites, in almost every aspect of the watch – dial, case, and even the hairspring is carbon. Plus it has a specially finished movement that’s visible through the an extra-wide sapphire case back. Initial thoughts The vintage “Dark Lord” is all-black version of the Monaco that’s one of the most desirable of vintage Heuers. It was something of an experimental creation with only a few dozen were made, or perhaps even a hundred depending on the source. One of the first all-black watches, the “Dark Lord” had a powder-coated case like many early black-coated watches. Consequently, the “Dark Lord” case was fragile and few have survived in pristine condition, explaining its rarity and value, as well as why it’s the inspiration for the Carbon Monaco. A vintage “Dark Lord” ref. 740.303N The pleasing black, orange, and cream palette of the Carbon Monaco instantly evoke the “Dark Lord”. And at a distance, the Carbon Monaco even has something of a vintage flavour. But up close it is evidently a modern watch in both style and substance. Unlike the “Dark Lord”, the Carbon Monaco is fabricated from a material that’s naturally black, or at least a dark grey. The carbon composite case has an indelible finish, while also being extremely lightweight. The modern material, along with the geometrically open-worked ...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”
Francois-Paul Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021, the F.P. Journe FFC Blue, sticks to a familiar template. Like prior watches conceived for the biennial charity auction – the tourbillon of 2015, split-seconds chronograph of 2017, and the Astronomic of 2019 – this year’s timepiece has a tantalum case and blue dial. But FFC Blue is a strikingly unique watch – the five-fingered time display is a first in watchmaking. Though it has a conventional round case, the FFC Blue is conceptually closer to the unconventional Vagabondage watches than the brand’s round watches. Short for Francis Ford Coppola, the FFC Blue originated with a question posed to Mr Journe by the director of The Godfather and Apocalypse Now in 2012. Mr Coppola suggested a watch that indicated the time with human hand. Over the following years Mr Journe worked on the concept, with Mr Coppola suggesting the finger positions to indicate each hour. And now the filmmaker’s idea has been realised as a one-off creation for the charity auction. Though entirely unique compared with F.P. Journe’s other creations, the FFC is powered by the workhorse cal. 1300 of the Octa series Initial thoughts I found the hand-display concept intensely compelling when Mr Journe described it during my visit to Geneva in 2017. In the metal the FFC is equally compelling. It is inventive and appealing. It’s rather large at 42 mm in diameter, though like nearly all F.P. Journe watches it is unusually thin given the c...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 collection
The roaring 20s was a tumultuous time in America that included the aftermath of the First World War, prohibition and the infamous Wall St crash. But sometimes the most chaotic environments lead to a surging sense of creativity. The 1920s were certainly a productive time when it came to watches, with many of what we … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
About the Chronomaster Revival A3818 “Cover Girl” Unique Piece
Zenith CEO, Julien Tornare and Head of Products, Romain Marietta on the Chronomaster Revival A3818 “Cover Girl” Unique Piece and why the brand decided to donate to #ThePinkdialProject.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Watch” Ref. 27001M-001
Having set the record for the most expensive watch ever when the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A sold for CHF31 million at Only Watch 2019, Patek Philippe has created something entirely different for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction. The Geneva watchmaker’s entry for Only Watch 2021 is the Complicated Desk Clock ref. 27001M-001, a tabletop timepiece inspired by a pair of historical clocks made in the 1920s for prominent American collectors. The front of the clock opens to reveal the pushers for adjustment as well as winding and setting sockets Initial thoughts While Patek Philippe’s past creations for Only Watch were unique variants of existing models, the ref. 27001M desk clock is a unique model. It also claims several “firsts”. The ref. 27001M is the only example of this reference ever created to date – and the first timepiece to be equipped with this movement – and also the first clock Patek Philippe has contributed to Only Watch. This makes the ref. 27001M truly unique against all of Patek Philippe’s diverse repertoire. The inscription on the inside of the lid Very much classical luxury in style, the ref. 27001M is an appealing timepiece. A couple of details could have been done better or removed altogether, like “The Only One” on the lower edge, but it is still a good looking object. At the same time, it is mechanically interesting, since the movement is not only a 31-day calibre but also being used for the first time by Patek Philippe. Thoug...
Time+Tide
Pink Dial Project: These are the watches we are personally bidding on, so get out of our way pls – best regards, Zach, Andrew and Ricardo
Watching the bidding on the Pink Dial Project each day over the last week has been like filling up the metaphorical spiritual gas tank with goodwill. Truly life-affirming. These brands that are involved should take a bow. Their extraordinary interpretations of the “pink dial” theme have already raised over $300,000 SGD, and there remains a … ContinuedThe post Pink Dial Project: These are the watches we are personally bidding on, so get out of our way pls – best regards, Zach, Andrew and Ricardo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Every Watch Tells a Story: Nelli’s Cartier Roadster
Editor’s Note: We recently presented our readers with the opportunity to submit their very own written “Every Watch Tells a Story” where they reflect on a timepiece that is very special to them and the narrative behind it. Here is Nelli’s (@tiffanyticks) tale of how she arrived at the Cartier Roadster and how gender-expectations confounded others … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Nelli’s Cartier Roadster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Fly-By Death: 5 Skull-Themed BR 01 Timepieces By Bell & Ross – Reprise
Bell & Ross’s unique BR 01 Instrument stole the spotlight at its launch in 2005 thanks to its unusual circle-in-a-square case, becoming an instant hit. The BR 01 was then used as a jumping-off point for a variety of designs, beginning in 2009 with the then-trendy skull motif – which in Elizabeth Doerr's eyes was a perfect addition. How has the skull motif evolved at Bell & Ross? Find out here!
SJX Watches
Romain Gauthier Introduces the Continuum
Romain Gauthier’s latest watch is a surprise (sort of, since a one-off version was revealed for Only Watch 2021). Instead of being a successor to the mechanically and artistically impressive Logical One, the Continuum is a simple, time-only watch that transforms one of the brand’s first models into a modern, sporty watch. Fabricated entirely of titanium, including the muted dial and hand-wind movement, the Continuum is notably lightweight at just 55 grams including the strap and buckle. Initial thoughts While high-end watches across the board are enjoying a boom in demand, luxury-sports watches stand out for being the hottest genre. For that reason, even brands that have long focused on classical, complicated watchmaking have entered the sports watch arena. So sports watches are increasingly mundane, with every new release almost feeling like one too many. That chips away at the appeal of the Continuum, though it’s clearly executed to a high level, as is expected of Romain Gauthier. The red lines radiating from the small seconds smartly fill up the bottom half of the dial, which is larger than usual with the off-center hours and minutes hands The Continuum does look like a Romain Gauthier, despite an all-new design. It has enough elements from the brand’s past models that it feels like an evolved version of classical offerings such as the Insight Micro Rotor. That said, its bezel with wide machined notches does appear derivative, especially because it doesn’t ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Girard Perregaux Aston Martin Laureato Chronograph has a dial that dazzles
It’s one thing to salivate over pictures and Instagram posts, but hands up who remembers the first time they were fortunate enough to set eyes on a Laureato in real life? I do, and it was love at first sight. The month was January, the year was 2017, the time zone was Swiss and the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Girard Perregaux Aston Martin Laureato Chronograph has a dial that dazzles appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.