Hodinkee
Breaking News: The Henry Graves Jr. Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Is Up For Sale Again At Christie's Geneva
Some watches mean a lot more than others.
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Hodinkee
Some watches mean a lot more than others.
Time+Tide
OK, we’ll skip the whole “shaken, not stirred” routine and skip to the salient facts. Omega has just released its latest Bond-themed timepiece, the Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service – and it’s pretty awesome. Limited to just 7007 pieces (see what they did there?), the Bond watch pays homage to, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Omega’s carefully paced rollout of thematic watches is building up to next year’s release of No Time to Die, the 25th James Bond film and perhaps Daniel Craig’s last outing as 007. With the upcoming film seven months away, the just-announced Seamaster Diver 300M instead celebrates the 50th anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (OHMSS), the 1969 James Bond adventure that was the one and only time Australian actor George Lazenby played Bond. In the usual style of a James Bond edition, the OHMSS edition is a standard model that’s been face-lifted to include numerous details referring to 007. The base watch is the 42mm Seamaster Diver 300M with a steel case. Here the dial is black PVD-coated, black ceramic dial that’s engraved with the familiar gun barrel spiral motif and the base of a bullet at its centre. The hands and indices are 18k yellow gold, with the 12 o’clock marker being featuring the three spheres from the fictional Bond family coat of arms. Two less obvious details lie in the date disc, which has its “7” rendered in the “007” logo, as well as the 10 o’clock marker that has a “secret signature” of “50” visible only in the dark within the Super-Luminova. The edition is limited to 7,007 and pieces, with an 18k yellow gold plate screwed into the side of the case bearing the individual watch number. It’s packaged in a large box that includes a travel pouch emblazoned with the Bond coat of arms, as well as a steel brace...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: I think it’s fairly safe to say that Gérald Charles Genta is the 20th century’s most notable designer of wristwatches. Many know the list of his accomplishments, but the sheer scope and impact of his unique and inspired design language is still sometimes difficult to grasp. Royal Oak, Nautilus, Constellation, Ingenieur, Golden Ellipse … ContinuedThe post Looking back at Bulgari’s Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Artisanal watchmakers Franck Muller have really taken it to the next level with their latest timepiece, the Franck Muller Vanguard Yachting Anchor Skeleton. Available in a range of different precious metals, including 18k yellow gold and 18k rose gold, the case of the prodigious new wristwatch measures an imposing 44mm and is 12.65mm thick. Housed … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Vanguard Yachting Anchor Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The GPHG's Men’s Complication category awards “men’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. They may feature classic and/or innovative complications and indications like world time, dual time, or other types of models.” And our panel is split. Again.
Hodinkee
Lots of watches, lots of laughter, and even a bit of controversy.
SJX Watches
The most talked-about watch at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong is lot 2300, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona powered by a Zenith El Primero movement that’s described as “a possibly unique… chronograph wristwatch with a red dial”. And as with all high-profile watches, the auctioneers have given the watch an Italian nickname, “Luna Rossa”, which translates as “red moon”. The reason the “Luna Rossa” is controversial is because such a red dial has never ever been seen before. Usually unicorns are known and whispered about, even if seldom seen, but the “Luna Rossa” has surprised everyone. Experts and insiders I approached have neither encountered nor heard of such a dial, which makes it quite a revelation. But they all agree it is correct – in the sense that all elements are identical to known Rolex dials of the period – though of unknown origin. Sotheby’s itself hasn’t provided much background about the watch, either officially or unofficially. Unlike the unique platinum Daytona “Zenith” that Sotheby’s sold last year, setting a record price for a modern Daytona, which had a backstory that was I managed to uncover, the “Luna Rossa” remains a mystery. The dial is glossy red lacquer, with gold indices and sub-dials When such unusual dials emerge, the immediate question is one of authenticity. The “Luna Rossa” passes the test – the dial is correct in its details. The element usually regarded as crucia...
Time+Tide
James May, doyen of automotive journalism, presenter of Amazon’s The Grand Tour and former presenter of BBC’s Top Gear, knows a great many things about the mechanical innards of an automobile. It turns out that Mr May is also rather savvy when it comes to understanding the complexity of the technology that almost single-handedly and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: James May and the Quartz Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: With weather more conducive to anything other than complete hibernation finally starting to creep back into our lives Down Under, it’s got everyone here in the office talking about what watch you should be wearing when the board shorts, bikinis and budgie smugglers come out. Now, we’ve already covered what we think will … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie are coming Down Under next week to show off some of their hottest new timepieces. We can’t wait to see Moser’s very rare watches, especially these three stunners: Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD Moser has decided to up the horological ante once again with its latest Pioneer, the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD. … ContinuedThe post 3 Mosers we’re excited to see next week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It seems like every other week there’s a new Casio being unleashed upon the wristwatch-wearing world. And this week is no different, as the Japanese marque has just released this - the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB. That’s right, there’s now another 5000-series vying for the attention of all you digital devotees out there, and this one’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Horological heavyweight Richard Mille has just unveiled their latest limited edition masterpiece, the Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen, and there’s only one thing we can say … Bwoah! In typical fashion only to be expected of Richard Mille, the RM 50-04 is an incredibly complicated and quite frankly wonderful timepiece, designed for the one … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The GPHG foundation describes the Men’s category for watches entered into the 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève as containing indications for only hours, minutes, seconds, simple date, power reserve, and classic moon phase. Here our panelists select their favorites from the six shortlisted watches, and the reactions are quite mixed.
Time+Tide
It’s the least surprising twist in a conversation when a watch collector tells you they’re into G-Shock. When I started writing about watches, I remember a fellow Australian journalist – Bani McSpedden – flicking through pictures on his phone of all his G-Shocks arranged in a rainbow stack. I found it curious then, but not … ContinuedThe post Andrew talks about how Time+Tide started, and explains why he copped the Casio G-Shock Full Metal Black Aged IP appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
This could be the greatest marketing scheme in the history of watches.
Time+Tide
In the world of serious vintage watch collecting the presence of a retailer’s name on the dial can make a big difference in terms of price. Turler, Tiffany & Co, Serpico Y Laino, prestigious retailers with great provenance - just the sort of thing that makes an otherwise generic steel sports watch stand out of … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The return of the retailer exclusive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Serving up this week's most interesting vintage watches from around the web.
Revolution
Ross Povey picks out his favorite lots from Sotheby’s watches sale catalogue, to be held at London on September 24th, 2019.
Time+Tide
In an unending stream of vintage-inspired wristwatches that are just a little bit off (you know what I mean), you cling to a watch that gets it right like a life raft. The Haven Watch Co. Chilton is exactly that life-saving device, with it tastefully sized at 37mm, and offering a visually compelling dial. Taking … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Haven Watch Co. Chilton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Ophion is a Spanish brand offering Swiss-made watches with a particular speciality: traditionally-styled movement and dial decoration done by machine, resulting in a modest price. The new OPH 786 Vélos sticks to the same formula, but takes it to a new level by increasing the degree of machine-executed decoration on the dial to create an appealing style while retaining the accessible pricing. And the resulting look is also reminiscent of the work of far more expensive independent watchmakers like Thomas Prescher and Voutilainen. Two dials are offered: the simpler, and less expensive, one being a metallic finish and concentric brushing matched with nickel-plated hands. And the fancier option is an elaborate basket-weave guilloche engraved by a CNC milling machine, combined with either nickel-plated or heat-blued hands. Both dial finished have the same construction featuring an applied minute track and inner ring, and also large applied Breguet numerals. The inner ring has a wide inner bevel that is once again cut by machine. The 39mm watch case features bulbous, teardrop lugs that are each produced individually, and then welded to the case – an unusually elaborate construction at this price point. And it’s worth pointing out the case is made by Voutilainen & Cattin, the case maker owned by Voutilainen. Inside is the same calibre found in earlier Ophion models. Made by Soprod, it’s hand-wound with a five-day power reserve. The movement layout was customised for Ophion...
Time+Tide
The travel watch is one of the classic tropes in the world of watch design - and as with all recurring themes, the travel watch is a broad spectrum, ranging from rough and ready all the way up to the private jets and mega-yachts version of travelling in style. The Grand Seiko SBGE201 treads a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Travel in style with Grand Seiko’s SBGE201 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Late 2018 saw Breitling update their range with the release of new models. The arrival of Georges Kern as the CEO of Breitling gave the brand a revived outlook. He is focusing on meeting the expectations of the brand’s two primary consumers. The customers who prefer masculine and technology inspired watches and customers that prefer Breitling’s extended history and their vintage designs. The Breitling Premier collection released in 2018 as part of Georges Kern’s product portfolio falls into the revamped vintage category. The outcome is that the brand delivers timepieces that combine purpose, style, quality while keeping to a timeless design. As quoted by Georges Kern, the Premier Collection is “the first modern Breitling collection dedicated to everyday elegance. With outstanding quality and performance, these watches bear our unmistakable brand DNA, but has been created with a focus on style that beautifully complements their purpose“. The Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 is certainly a watch that stands true to this statement. The Premier B01 Chronograph 42 is a modern take on the vintage piece released initially in the 1940’s; the Breitling Premier Chronograph reference 790. Back when the Breitling Premier Chronograph reference 790 was released, several countries worldwide were involved in World War II. During this period in history, people would look to the golden age of cinema and other forms of entertainment to escape from the realities of World ...
Time+Tide
Ladies and the slight of wrist, rejoice! And behold the latest offering from German watchmaker Nomos Glashütte – the Nomos Metro Rose Gold 33. In a first for Nomos’ Metro range, the Rose Gold is being offered to customers exclusively in a 33mm case size. Designed by Nomos’ Berlin-based stalwart Mark Braun, the new Metro … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Nomos Metro Rose Gold 33 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Audemars Piguet has scored another distinctive-looking women’s watches in the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique.
SJX Watches
Badger Watches makes it debut on Kickstarter with the Islander, an automatic wristwatch with an interesting tonneau-shaped case. While most tonneau cases are made up of multiple curved lines, the Islander case is composed of several straight lines and flat surfaces, giving it a slightly 1970s vibe. The brand is based in Singapore – a city-state that’s an island – which is where the model name comes from. Affordable watches like the Islander usually work best if most of the effort is concentrated on one element; here the focus is undoubtedly the case. Measuring 38mm in diameter and 48mm long, the case is steel with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. It’s stamped from a block of steel, giving it softer edges and corners than if it were milled, but with a price tag of under US$400 that’s more than enough. Four dial colours are available, including one in silver with blue accents that’s a 99-piece limited edition. With only minimal text on the edge, the dials have the same stamped radial motif, along with tapered hands reminiscent of the Marc Newson-designed Ikepod watches. The date window is placed at six o’clock to maintain the symmetry of the dial. The Islander is powered by a Sellita SW200-1, which is a clone of the ETA 2824. A low-cost but robust movement, the SW200 has a shortish 38-hour power reserve. Key facts Diameter: 38mm Height: 11mm Material: Steel Water resistance: 50m Movement: SW200-1 Functions: Hours, minutes, and second; date W...
Time+Tide
Whether it’s the Submariner, Sea-Dweller or Deepsea, Rolex’s iconic range of professional dive watches have rather a lot in common. However, as Michael points out with his prized Deepsea ref.126660, the legacy watchmaker’s amphibious timepieces are not all created equal. In fact, the first time that Michael realised he wanted to own the herculean dive watch … ContinuedThe post “No other Rolex is designed like this” – Michael’s Rolex Deepsea appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In general, Grand Seiko has a reputation for being somewhat stealthy on the wrist - but, to be honest, that’s not the case with this chunk of finely crafted steel, better known as the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC203. At a sizeable 43.5mm across by 16.1mm tall, this isn’t the sort of watch that … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s epic Spring Drive Chronograph – the SBGC203 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Turns out Antoni from Netflix's Queer Eye is something of an Omega fan. He talks about his vintage Constellation with GQ.The post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Queer Eye’s Antoni Porowski can’t live without his Omega Constellation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass has just unveiled yet another limited edition to mark the its 40th year – the Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Red Dot. It’s the most affordable anniversary edition yet, and also also the third in the annual “Red Dot” series of watches made for Singapore. Available in four iterations, each limited to just 50 pieces, the limited edition is based on the bestselling Tangente automatic, arguably the quintessential Nomos. It screams, or rather quietly declares, Nomos’ design philosophy of Deutscher Werkbund, the predecessor of Bauhaus, and is characterised by a clean dial with large, alternating hour numerals and a case with thin, angular lugs. While most limited-edition watches from Nomos vary in colour, with subtle, yet profound tweaks to the palette, the new Red Dot quartet departs from the norm in one drastic way: the first pair features Eastern Arabic numerals, while the second has its hours in Chinese oracle bone script. According to The Hour Glass, the use of both scripts is a nod to Singapore’s history as an entrepot where traders from both the Near East and Far East often stopped. All four watches also pay tribute to the country with a small in-joke, with a little red dot at six o’clock – a reference to the city state’s frequent depiction on maps. The Eastern Arabic duo Bone oracle script and the “little red dot” Essentialism First conceived in 1992 by Nomos founder Roland Schwertner, the Tangente...
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