Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Ref. 25707B
The evolution of the brand’s do-it-all diver for modern duty with the Marine Nationale.
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Hodinkee
The evolution of the brand’s do-it-all diver for modern duty with the Marine Nationale.
SJX Watches
A Spanish watch designer who founded one of the hot independent brands during the lead up to the last financial crisis, Franc Vila has made a quiet return with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. Turning away from the excessive style that characterised his original watches, Mr Vila now relies on the movement construction to create a distinctive aesthetic. Produced by an unnamed independent watchmaker, the FVF1 movement is open-worked to give it an airy feel. And it features a novel “piston” mechanism for the roller indicator for the day. Initial thoughts When I first encountered the FVF1 C2, it was interesting both from a visual and technical perspective. But I was sceptical as the brand has baggage. Mr Vila’s original brand went under after the finial crisis of 2007-2008. And while it was successful before it was not – at its peak the brand perhaps 500 watches a year – that brand’s watches were oddly styled, with a dial that resembled a monkey’s head (or a cobra according to the brand itself). But a decade has passed and Mr Vila’s latest creation is appealing. The styling found in his original watches has been dialled back, which is a good thing. The movement is open-worked and unusually constructed, giving it a distinctive look despite the simple outline of the case. At the same time, it has a novel mechanical function with the “piston” adjuster for the day indicator. And it is also finished attractively to a level similar to that of the Poincon de G...
Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre releases a trio of watches in their Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures collection featuring tribute works to celebrated artists.
Time+Tide
Ask any Formula 1 fan who Ayrton Senna was, and the range of emotions they’ll express may leave you perplexed. In the first few seconds, the joy in their eyes may reflect what it felt like to watch one of the most aggressive and talented drivers the sport has ever seen. Eventually, that joy is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I love my Grand Seiko SBGA413 “Spring”. It gets a lot of wear time on my wrist because I enjoy its cherry blossom inspired pink hue, making it a very distinct timepiece. But it is not just the hue that is compelling. Its “rock pattern” texture (as the brand refers to it) is a fan-favourite … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive introduces their “rock pattern” dial in a tradition-rooted indigo blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Speculation has been rampant ever since Tudor announced their renewed partnership with Marine Nationale. With the vintage M.N. issued divers highly coveted and collectable, many were excited for a chance to own a modern take on such a watch. We previously gave our own predictions, detailing what was likely, unlikely, and most fitting for a … ContinuedThe post Is the new Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” everything we hoped for? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Earlier this year Tudor resurrected its partnership with France’s navy, the Marine Nationale, some two decades after it last supplied military-spec Submariners to the navy’s divers. Now the brand has finally revealed a project two years in the making, the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”. Developed together with the members of the Commando Hubert, the navy’s elite combat divers, the Pelagos FXD is an actual military issue timepiece – the unit’s divers wear the same watch during operations – with fixed bars and a no-nonsense aesthetic. The Pelagos FXD is a time-only diver just like the Submariner ref. 9401/0 “MN” issued to divers of the French navy in the 1970s Initial thoughts Images of a Commando Hubert graduation ceremony appeared online several months ago, revealing the watch. So the Pelagos FXD was expected, but still manages to surprise. It is clearly a nod to the ref. 9401/0 “MN” of the 1970s – nicknamed “snowflake” after its hands and dial – and is as close to a vintage Submariner as a modern Tudor can be. But it still has a few extras appeal to military watch aficionados. The fabric strap has a Velcro fastener so it can be adjusted more precisely to any wrist size Most notable are the lugs, which are a reinterpretation of the fixed bars found on vintage military-issue dive watches. They form one piece with the case, making the connection between the case and strap far more robust. It’s certainly over-engineered for anyone who isn...
Revolution
One of the most storied collaborations in the history of watchmaking and the military is Tudor and French navy’s partnership that dates back to the 1950s. Now in 2021, the joint venture is official with the release of Pelagos FXD and fans of the no date Snowflake Tudor are going to be very happy indeed…
Quill & Pad
Following the record-breaking weekend comprising the Phillips and Only Watch auctions, the vintage world turns to the remaining houses yet to stage their auctions this season. And so our pals at The Watches TV went hands on with a few lots of Zurich’s Ineichen auction house from the year's final auction to be held on November 20 and 21, 2021.
Time+Tide
When a film has three huge Hollywood names on its marquee, you know a lot of eyeballs will be tuning in. Reportedly Netflix’s highest budget film to date, the $200m USD production Red Notice stars Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson, Ryan Reynolds, and Gal Gadot and is jam-packed with action sequences to provide viewers with some … ContinuedThe post Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson spotted wearing an IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar at the premiere of Netflix’s “Red Notice” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Luxury watches can command exorbitant price tags at charity auctions and when piece uniques are on the table, the bidding wars inevitably heat up. We saw this recently during the Pink Dial Project auction, which Time+Tide was proud to be a partner of, and the trend continued at Only Watch, one of the largest recurring … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet, FPJ, H. Moser & Cie, and Zenith achieve record breaking results at Only Watch 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Thirty years after the last Countach left its factory, Lamborghini announced a 21-century environment-conscious remake in August this year: the Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4 hybrid. A perfect complement to this insane piece of engineering and design is the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X, the latest creation from the manufacture’s partnership with Lamborghini Squadra Corse.
Time+Tide
Fifty Fathoms. It’s a reference to an antiquated British unit of measure of approximately 91 and a half metres, but in the realm of horology, it’s synonymous with one of the first (along with Rolex’s Submariner) purpose-built dive watches, and its history is long and storied. First introduced in 1953, the original Blancpain Fifty Fathoms … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Bathyscaphe Titanium is a sexy beast of a dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This week’s episode is brought to you by a very special TBWS community initiative – No Change November. Trust us, you’ve gotta listen in to get it.
Hodinkee
Safe to say he learned his lesson. See the watches he's holding onto - and the sweatshirt he can’t live without.
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2021 was a landmark for the biennial charity auction in both scale and value. Organised by Christie’s, the ninth edition of Only Watch just took place in Geneva, with 53 timepieces having been sold for CHF30 million, or about US$32.8 million. Held for the first time in Palexpo, the sprawling convention centre near Geneva’s airport, Only Watch 2021 saw a turnout of over 850 people inside the cavernous room, a massive uptick in attendance compared to the one or two hundred in past years. People and faces Practically everyone who is someone in Swiss watchmaking turned up, including Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe, Frederic Arnault of TAG Heuer, Tudor chief executive Eric Pirson, as well as independent watchmakers like Kari Voutilainen and Francois-Paul Journe. Even Aurel Bacs and Alex Ghotbi of rival auction house Phillips were spotted seated in the room. Some of the boldface names were also bidding on lots in the auction, including Francois-Henri Bennahmias of Audemars Piguet who bid enthusiastically on the Chanel J12 pair and Jean Arnault of Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps who was after a creation by an independent watchmaker. While there were watch collectors from around the world present – including a contingent from Dubai Watch Club – there were fewer Asian bidders in the room compared to past years, presumably because of the travel restrictions still in place in most Asian countries. That said, many of the crucial bidders from Asia did turn up, inc...
Time+Tide
NOTE: This article has been updated to reflect Isotope Watches recently making a change to the movement within both the Hydrium Burnt Tangerine and the Hydrium Will Return. I’m going to share with you a very unpopular opinion of mine. Limited Editions (LEs) absolutely have a place in the wristwatch market. When I say that, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Isotope Watches Hydrium Burnt Tangerine and Will Return are fresh, bold and unlike anything else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We muse over the state of the independent watchmaking, and pick six of our favourites to celebrate the joys of collecting watches.
Time+Tide
In the northern hemisphere, it’s that time of year again. The rubber straps slowly retreat to your watch drawer, followed closely behind by those metal bracelets. As the temperatures decrease, the feeling of cold steel or stiff rubber on your wrist isn’t at all enjoyable. Thus we turn to the warmth of leather or the … ContinuedThe post Winter is Coming: Five Time+Tide Shop straps for the cold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In today’s watch world, Unimatic are punching above their weight. Founded in 2015 by two Italian industrial design students, this relatively new company has established a clean and unique core style in an environment flooded with start-ups and Kickstarter watches. Often the key to good design (and indeed writing) is to edit down. Just because you … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Unimatic U3-FFF is a distinctive bargain of a dive watch that proves less is more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Despite all its scholarly technology, Elizabeth Doerr finds Antoine Preziuso's Stella Polare Tourbillon Muonionalusta to be far more wearable for slimmer wrists than some of his other creations. Not only that, this watch is the culmination of the independent watchmaker's journey to capture a shooting star.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Mike and Kaz return to chat through another listener-submitted topic. This time they're running through the idea of "the heirloom watch" - a piece that's meant to be passed down and kept in the family for generations. You'll hear about watches that exist as heirloom watches in their families and which watches they'd choose to pass down to the next generation.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Mike is back, and the guys are talking about some of the most irritating factors that affect watch pricing for both new models and what you'd find on the secondary market. There's also a nice, matchy-matchy wrist check going on, some new Seiko models to chat about, and more.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This week Baird and Kaz sit down to talk all things meca-quartz chronographs - how they work, models they like, and much more. Tune in and enjoy!
SJX Watches
One of the most anticipated sales during Geneva’s watch auction week just concluded with a big number – the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for CHF4.749 million, or about US$5.2 million, including fees. While bidding was steady, it was restrained. Three bidders were the key movers behind the result – a phone bidders represented by Yong Ho and Alex Ghotbi of Phillips in Hong Kong and Geneva respectively, as well as an online bidder in Singapore. At the end it was down to the Singaporean buyer and Mr Ghotbi’s phone bidder, who clinched the watch with a hammer of CHF3.9 million. I wrote just earlier this week that I expected the Grande Sonnerie to sell for between US$4.0-5.0 million, so the result was well within my expectation. While there was talk of a far higher number prior to the sale, a variety of factors led me to that range, including the number of known potential buyers as well as the values of comparable watches. And that was how it turned out.
Time+Tide
They say that fashion trends move in cycles, but when a design remains attractive for over a century, you’ve got to admit that it goes beyond mere stylistic whims. The Vacheron Constaintin Historiques American 1921 is unashamedly a period piece, but that’s not to say it belongs to a bygone era. It might look strange … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Geneva auction week this year includes Only Watch, perhaps the headline event, but also a slew of other auctions. Over at Phillips, the majority of its Geneva watch auction catalogue comprises wristwatches, but two standouts in the sale are pocket watches, one from an independent watchmaker and the other from an establishment brand. Different as they are, the two are are indeed an epic pair. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV takes place on November 5 and 7, 2021. Lot 183 – Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Ref. 768 There are a few reasons the Patek Philippe ref. 768 is intriguing, even though they might not be obvious at a glance. For one, the ref. 798 is truly rare – Patek Philippe has only made a handful of grande sonnerie pocket watches in its history. It incorporates the most challenging complication to execute, the grande et petite sonnerie, which means the watch chimes the time as it passes. And it is a carillon, with three gongs instead of two, so that the quarter is sounded with three notes instead of the typical two. Then there’s the fact that it’s a mid-20th century Patek Philippe, a guarantee of the fine horological quality. The movement was made in 1898, but only cased up more than half a century later in 1953, and subsequently sold close to a decade after that. This example is interesting because it has a single-lidded back that sports an extra-large, relief-engraved Calatrava cross on a frosted base. According to Phillips the oversized logo ...
Time+Tide
During a shoot in that small window in between lockdowns in Melbourne, Andrew and I were discussing some of our favourite pieces we’d seen and tried on this year. Despite not having the usual bulk access at major fairs, we’ve still had some great watches in the office to ogle. One of the first watches … ContinuedThe post We asked Andrew six hard-hitting questions on his first six months with the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The name Hamilton is revered for many reasons, including its rich history in the air (producing aviation watches since 1918), and the new Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer wristwatch pays tribute to its past, with two new models based on, of all things, a World War II-era pocket watch. Historically, wristwatches were an evolution of pocket … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer is a well-priced daily wearer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What’s been the most visually bonkers watch of the year? Possible contenders would have to include the Louis Vuitton Carpe Diem and the MB&F; M.A.D.1 Pink Dial Project. But fresh competition now comes in the form of the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021. To be fair, the dial of the original Zenith … ContinuedThe post Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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