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Monochrome
There is currently a real wave of new, young independent watchmakers launching their own brand, and we are always delighted to showcase their work at MONOCHROME. One of the latest among them is Alexandre Martin, a 28-year-old Belgian who has just opened his workshop in Morges, Switzerland, near Lausanne. Named “1965” after the birth year […]
Worn & Wound
When it comes to watchmaking, it’s usually a marathon not a sprint. Bringing a model to life is a lesson in patience, and, well, timing. A tale we often hear about how a watch came to be starts with a chance meeting, some curiosity or perhaps even instant synergy, and then intention and hard work. This echoes the origin story of the new Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuò, the brainchild of William Massena, founder of Massena LAB, along with Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, the co-founders of Atelier Wen. The collaboration takes the name “Shuò,” from the Chinese character 烁, which can be translated as “sparkling,” “glittering,” or “radiant.” This aptly describes the shimmering and reflective qualities of hand tremblage – the rare and demanding decorative craft that graces the dial. For the new collaboration, the technique has been entirely executed by hand engraving specialist Coralie Mercier on behalf of GT Cadrans. To achieve the beautiful finish, Mercier pushes a graver across the 18-karat gold surface of the dial while continuously oscillating it. This meticulous work slowly develops a texture thanks to thousands of tiny irregular facets. The tremblage portion of the main dial plate lays the foundation with a radially brushed sector of either white gold or rose gold creating a border. The smooth contrast of this portion around the periphery houses the hour markers. Here, the brands offer a playful twist on the California dial layout w...
Monochrome
Enamel watches are nothing new, of course, but it is always interesting to discover a young independent brand approaching this centuries-old craft with a new take. O&HoraPictor; was founded only recently, in 2024; the brand grew out of founder Eriks’s long-standing exploration of enamel, including the establishment of his own enamel atelier in 2017. Today, […]
Hodinkee
Auction house Phillips has walked back and corrected a claim that an early, pre-production Chronmètre à Résonance watch, set to come up for sale in November, was delivered in 1999 after the watchmaker F.P. Journe said it arrived the next year and wasn't the first example of the reference sent to a customer. "We stand corrected thanks to François-Paul Journe," Phillips said in an Instagram post. "The "Pre-Production" Chronomètre à Résonance 022/99 to be offered by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo on November 7-8 was not delivered in 1999 as we originally believed. Thanks to F.P.Journe we now know the watch was actually delivered on 8 June, 2000," the auction house added. The Phillips correction followed the publication of a letter signed by F.P. Journe that disputed Phillips' claim that the watch with serial number 022/99 was likely one of the first Résonance watches commercially sold and delivered. In announcing the sale of the watch, which will hit the auction block in November in Geneva, Phillips had said the consignor and original owner of the watch had taken delivery of the piece in 1999. The auction house also suggested in a press release that the watch could be one of, if not the first, commercially delivered examples of the Résonance, often heralded as the signature watch from the French watchmaker. Phillips did not say it had confirmed that the watch was the first of the reference commercially delivered. In the letter titled "Correction," ...
Fratello
Since 2020, Gagà Laboratorio has produced distinctive wristwatches with Italian flair and Swiss precision. The company’s catalog comprises two model lines, the Labormatic and the Aqualab. Both are progressively designed and appear to be the types of pieces that could cost as much as a high-end sports car. However, that couldn’t be further from the […] Visit Even In Titanium, The Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero Is No Lightweight to read the full article.
Deployant
Day -1 of GWD began with an impromptu visit to the Rexhep Rehepi Ateliers and had hands-on with the Chronograph Flyback Prototype No.1.
Worn & Wound
The field watch has long provided a blank canvas for creative – or in many cases not so creative – designs. Leave it to a brand like Studio Underd0g to take a timeless classic and give it a fresh and decidedly fun spin. That’s exactly what the brand did in 2023 with the launch of its 02SERIES. The line recently got a glow up with Gen2, which notably introduced a more streamlined case – down to a 37mm diameter from the original 37.5mm and down to 11.5mm thickness from the original 12mm. In addition, the new Gen2 collection got an upgraded movement from the Sellita SW210-1 to the Sellita SW200-2 M, which in turn upped the power reserve from 42 hours to 63 hours. Still, the biggest departure we see from the run of the mill field watch is the use of color – a trait Studio Underd0g has become known for – with four shades: Red L0lly, Pink Lem0nade, Steffany Blue, and Nightshade. Now, for the first time, a limited color run comes to the Gen2 series – this is the Special Edition 02SERIES Mantis. For this limited edition, we don’t just get a bright new green colorway by day – we get one that glows bright green by night. Yup, that’s right – it’s a full-lume dial. Thanks to a generous application of X1 GL C3 Super-LumiNova (a whopping seven layers to be exact), the daytime green ombre transforms into a single, uniform glow once the light fades. Here, at the base, you have that well-refined case design of the new Gen2 makeup. The dial gets a pleasing green colo...
Hodinkee
What We Know This morning, just ahead of Geneva Watch Days, Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled a new limited-edition take on its Tonda PF Skeleton. This new watch does something so many Parmigiani watches do so well, blending several existing elements to create something just a little bit new. In this instance, Parmigiani Fleurier has taken its Milano Blue skeletonized Tonda PF dial and movement—which had previously been available only in platinum—and fitted them to a rose gold Tonda PF case (and bracelet). The Tonda PF case is one of the key arguments in favor of modern Parmigiani Fleurier. At 40mm across and just 8.5mm thick, it's well-sized and thin without feeling slight. Still, for as good as the Tonda PF is, the star of the show here is the movement. The PF777 (which you can read a bit more about here) is an automatic winding caliber developed in-house by Parmigiani Fleurier. Unlike many movements that find their way into skeletonized watches, the PF777 was purpose-built and designed from first principles with skeletonization in mind. The result of this — and of Parmigiani's willingness to not take skeletonization to the absolute extreme, but rather to implement the concept with some modicum of consideration — is a movement that balances aesthetic concerns with practical ones and is all the better for it. A blend of polished, satin-finished, and sandblasted surfaces keeps the PF777 feeling contemporary, and the ground-up design means the watch avoids many of th...
Monochrome
The Tonda PF collection by Parmigiani Fleurier is one of the most appealing contemporary takes on the luxury sports watch genre. Elegant, discreet and deliberately restrained, the collection has always favoured proportion and refined details over overtly demonstrative design. The same approach has been applied to the skeletonised versions, and now the brand introduces a new […]
Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier introduces a new 30-piece limited edition Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold Milano Blue. It builds upon the other four Tonda PF Skeleton configurations — Rose Gold Graphite, Steel Platinum Graphite, Platinum Milano Blue, and Steel Platinum Slate Green. Although this might seem like another version of the same thing, those who know and […] Visit An Elegant Skeletonized Watch: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold In Milano Blue to read the full article.
Monochrome
Piaget has long built its watchmaking reputation on a combination of ultra-thin movements and decorative techniques. Founded in 1874 by Georges-Édouard Piaget in La Côte-aux-Fées, the Maison developed its expertise in high-precision movements before making ultra-thin mechanical calibres one of its defining specialities. This expertise has also extended to major complications, including the tourbillon, chronograph, […]
Deployant
Piaget Polo Minute Repeater is announced. combining the sporty Polo case with the haute horlogerie of the striking watch.
Fratello
With the Italian summer coming to an end, HTD is just in time to grace us with new colors for its Aquatìc divers for one last jump into the warm Mediterranean waters. But before jumping in, you first have to choose from the seven new variations joining the lineup. Don’t worry, though; it’s not as […] Visit Living La Dolce Vita: New Colors For The HTD Aquatìc Bicchierini And SpaceBoy Dive Watches to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having previously examined concepts related to energy flow inside watch movements, from automatic winding to barrel capacity and gear tooth profiles, we now turn and look at how energy enters the movement through the keyless works. For the majority of watches, the crown is the sole component through which the owner interacts with the movement, for both setting the indications and winding. While these operations have become a matter of routine, they wouldn’t be possible if not for the keyless works. This underrated mechanism — usually hidden — deserves a closer look. From key to crown We owe today’s user-friendly dual-purpose crown, which can be used for both winding and setting, to French watchmaker Jean Adrien Philippe, whose last name is certainly resonant with all horology enthusiasts. A keen technician who had not found success in his homeland, Philippe was approached in 1845 by Antoine Norbert de Patek, a Polish watch merchant from Geneva. Patek’s then-partnership with François Czapek was going sour and the merchant was looking for a new, technically oriented associate. Shortly thereafter, Philippe was appointed as technical director at Patek’s firm. This unexpected fast track was due to Philippe’s innovation: the keyless, stem-wound movement. Although his French peers weren’t taken with the invention, Patek recognised the potential of keyless timepieces and sought to capitalise on — and further develop — the concept. Later in 1851, Patek, Philipp...
Fratello
Welcome, one and all, to the weekly spectacle that is Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we’re giving Daan a break and bringing our illustrious head of content, Nacho, into the ring. In the red corner, defending his six-win streak, is Jorg. More importantly, the watches going head-to-head today are two angular, adventure-ready titanium timepieces from […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Straum Expedition Vs. Laventure Marine Type 3 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
With Geneva Watch Days kicking off Tuesday, most of this week’s novelties are trying to get ahead of next week’s flood of news, and they’re not holding back. You’ll find completely new perpetual calendars, fresh chronograph sizes from established names, and some genuinely incredible craftsmanship from a few of the best houses to ever do … Continued
Monochrome
Named after the illustrious 18th-century watchmaker Charles Leroy, L.Leroy made its return over the past couple of years with high-end complications such as the Osmior Bal du Temps Tourbillon Minute Repeater or the Elyor Flying Tourbillon. Yet, the first watch heralding this renaissance was a unique piece combining a minute repeater and a tourbillon that was presented […]
Deployant
From TAG Heuer to Rolex, Citizen and Trilobe, I reflect on how my watch collecting journey —and my definition of a good watch—has evolved.
Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre once again turns its iconic Reverso Tribute into a canvas for fine art. Hailing from the manufacturer’s Métiers Rares atelier, these four new creations celebrate the Venice-inspired works of J. M. W. Turner. The watches debut at the Homo Faber Biennial exhibition, which takes place in Venice throughout September. Curated by the Michelangelo Foundation […] Visit An Artistic Homage To Venice: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Turner Series” to read the full article.
Monochrome
My pre-assumption about EVs is that they’re like battery-powered watches. That means they are of no interest to me. Yet, when Porsche asked me to join them in the south of France and have a drive in their latest EV that packs more than 1,000 horsepower, I was curious anyway and joined them for a […]
Fratello
Seiko has added something unusual to its Prospex collection — a watch with a design chosen by the brand’s fan community. The new 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch Fan-Selected Limited Edition HBC011 takes the modern interpretation of Seiko’s first diver and gives it a vibrant blue treatment, following a global fan vote held last year. Limited […] Visit Power To The People: The Fan-Selected Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver to read the full article.
Fratello
Yes, this watch’s origins unmistakably lie in the 1960s. Still, the black-dial Certina DS-2 on a steel mesh bracelet seems to be in the right place at the right time. Its black lacquered dial, sharp lines, and steel mesh bracelet give it a look you don’t want to mess with. We almost didn’t dare tell […] Visit You Don’t Wanna Mess With The Black-Dial Certina DS-2 Powermatic 80 On A Steel Mesh Bracelet to read the full article.
WristBuzz
Seventy-two years, one silhouette, and the single most recognised watch on earth. The Submariner survived James Bond, Steve McQueen, the quartz crisis, the wait-list era, and its own ubiquity. Time to answer the question everyone tiptoes around: is it actually the most iconic watch ever?
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage CompuChron LED You gotta love a good vintage LED, especially when it comes with the box and papers! This example is a nice, chunky CompuChron in stainless steel. The space-age steel case is excellent with sharp edges and original mix of brushed and polished finishes. The LED screen looks nice and clear, and the printed CompuChron logo is crisp. The watch comes on the correct and original integrated steel bracelet with a signed buckle. Best of all it comes with the original box and instruction manual, which is always handy. The watch runs and all the LED segments light up. Really fun piece that’s in amazing condition. View auction here Vintage Seiko Seikomatic Here is a sweet vintage Seiko Seikomatic from 1966. Seller doesn’t state, but this should be a 38mm case size. The case looks unpolished with sharp edges on the cool, angular lugs. The classic Seiko silver dial is clean, with nice clear writing and applied steel baton markers. Steel dauphine hands and an unusual date at 3 o’clock with day at 6 o’clock complete the look. The small crown is recessed at 4 o’clock. The serial number on the caseback dates this one to January 1966. The automatic movement is clean and...
Hodinkee
What We Know Seiko has launched a new version of their popular vintage-inspired 1965 Heritage Diver, with a dial and color palette chosen by you. Okay, well, maybe not you directly, but through a fan-selection process that Seiko launched last year to mark the 60th anniversary of the original 62MAS diver. Seiko fans were presented with four variants of a watch that would eventually reach production, each inspired by a different tone and color the ocean can take on over the course of a day. In the end, the winner of last summer's campaign was this "Daytime Blue" color, which evokes the clear blue waters you'll find in tropical locales where the water is clear and the sun is shining. Other options included a bright yellow, deep green, and orange-y red. It's not wholly surprising that the blue dial would have won in a public ballot, but each is compelling, and I'll be curious to see whether Seiko, having developed and shown off the full range, ever chooses to release any of the other colors. The watch itself is a familiar one. The HBC011 shares a spec sheet with the enthusiast-favorite (and James') favorite SPB lineup of dive watches, specifically with the '20MAS' generation released in 2024, which brought with it a host of quality-of-life improvements, including a refined case and new movement. That case, which Seiko claims to be 40mm wide, 13mm thick, and 46.6mm lug-to-lug (and which James measured at 40.2mm wide, 13.4mm thick, and 46.6mm lug-to-lug in his Hands-On), is agai...
Monochrome
The name Quantum might not be familiar to you, and nor was it to us before we discovered the Barracuda. Quantum is a watchmaking company that has been around for more than thirty years, operating in more than 35 countries and through more than 1,000 points of sale. And it’s not some humdrum microbrand coming […]
Hodinkee
Welcome to August's end, everyone. I never know how to start these things—there's too much variety in most of our days, meaning that, short of borderline universal cultural experiences, it's hard to know what we'd all even know about. That said, I'd like to offer quick thanks: I've now lucked into writing Bring A Loupe for six months, and it's just tremendous fun, soup to nuts. Thanks for reading, and I look forward to working as hard as I can to not bore you for as long as I'm allowed. Also, boo to Dolly Parton's and Tim Curry's passing. Terrible plot twist. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Hublot Orlinski's on hold, the Seiko Sportura sold for €1,350, the Breitling Tabarly for €760, and the Yema Tomahawk for £800. Strays I have failed to highlight fun skin divers over the last couple of weeks, so let me ameliorate that lack with this Dupont and this LIP. They share identical all-steel skin diver cases; the differences in their bezels are awfully minor, and the Dupont's got a bracelet, so maybe that's enough of a needle-mover. This Breguet Chronoscope pocketwatch in platinum's not in perfect condition—the dial's got a few spots—but it is also incredibly gorgeous, the design is fantastic, and Monaco Legend Group sold a silver version in 2023 for €16,000, so plan accordingly. I could be wrong, but it looks like this ultra-thin solid gold quartz Jaeger was made by other brands as well, among them Bulova (who called their version a Phantom) and Microma (appare...
Hodinkee
What We Know Not even two months on from the initial launch of the updated 02Series Gen 2, Studio Underd0g is jumping headfirst back into limited editions with the Special Edition 02Series Mantis. The headline here is a bright green, full-lume dial, which Studio Underd0g claims is the brightest to ever grace a watch from the brand, but it's also worth reiterating some of the changes that the brand brought to this watch earlier in the summer. The biggest change separating the 02Series Gen 1 and Gen 2 is the new case used for the latter. Upsized by half a millimeter to 37.5mm, the case has also been thinned out and now measures just 11.5mm rather than 12mm, and a full 2.1mm of that comes from the domed sapphire crystal. With lug-to-lug holding steady at 46mm, the updated case finds itself squarely in the Goldilocks zone for many collectors. There are also some meaningful technical updates in the new watch. Tolerances are tighter, and the SW210 movement has been replaced by the SW200-2 M (modified to remove the automatic winding system), which brings with it an accuracy of ±7 seconds per day and 63 hours of power reserve. The whole watch is assembled in-house at the D0ghouse, Studio Underd0g's newly established workshop, and is an evolution of the Horologium. All that said, the real reason to buy this watch is the dial. Like most watches from Studio Underd0g, the 02Series Mantis uses a sapphire sandwich dial construction, with a transparent sapphire disc printed with the min...
Worn & Wound
Fears has decided to add its first high complication by tackling one of the most complex of them all: the perpetual calendar. Charting new territory seems like just the right way to celebrate the brand’s 10th anniversary since its renaissance in 2016. The introduction of a QP to the flagship Brunswick line isn’t the only headline. The collection gets a new case architecture with wide polished bevels making it the thinnest Brunswick watch in the line at 9.4mm. The Brunswick has been a defining collection for Fears since its introduction in 2017, marking the first mechanical line of the modern era. Yet, the collection is also an homage to the brand’s past with a vintage-inspired cushion shape case, onion crown, and signature sector dial. The design mixes these aesthetics with distinct typography and numerals derived from a piece from the brand’s archives. It only feels fitting that this collection would serve as the foundation for Fears’ first high complication in 180 years.Even with the addition of day, date, month, year, and leap year indications that make up a perpetual calendar, Fears has managed to keep the Brunswick QP compact at just 39mm. When it comes to high complications, the composition of the movement is usually the main limiting factor when it comes to sizing. Here, we can thank the Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module, atop a hand-finished Sellita SW300 as its base movement. This caliber has been modified specifically for this watch, giving it its...
Monochrome
One of Britain’s oldest family-run watch companies, first established in 1846 by Edwin Fear in Bristol, the Fears Watch Company ran for 130 years until it closed in 1976. In 2016, it was re-established by Edwin Fear’s great-great-great-grandson, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. Until now, the brand has been a strong advocate of British watchmaking, offering distinctive, often […]
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