Hodinkee
Year In Review: How the Cartier Crash Became The Most Important Vintage Watch of 2021
A new world-record auction price for the Crash is just the latest chapter in the history of this surreal Cartier.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: The Collector Perspective On The New Tudor Pelagos FXD
Ross Povey of Tudor Collector has the deep enthusiast take on Tudor's new dive watch.
Deployant
Review: the new Horizon Watches Nautilus
We take a look at one of the newest kids on the microbrands block - in the form of a diver's watch named Nautilus, by Horizon Watches.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Zenith x SJX Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”
I’m pleased to announce the Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”, a collaborative edition loosely inspired by the disco-era El Primero G383, but reimagined with lots of lume – the dial is disco at night and also in the day. Update: Sold out, thank you for the interest. A brief background Zenith is a brand that appeals to me on an intellectual level because it’s historically significant for its chronometers and chronographs, but also on a personal level, simply because the brand makes watches that are both appealing and affordable. So it was a no-brainer for me to work with Zenith – since it meant I could create my fantasy El Primero. One of my favourite vintage Zenith models is the G383, a truly funky watch with a design that is unmistakably of the late 1960s and 1970s – the dial is over the top and truly disco. The El Primero G383 of 1969 But a one-for-one vintage remake has never interested me (plus I’m not a fan of the tiny lugs of the G383). So in early 2020, I got in touch with Romain Marietta, Zenith’s head of product development, and together we spent several months refining the concept, creating the Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”. (Full disclosure: The several months spent tweaking the idea produced more than one outstanding design, so a variant is a possibility.) At the same time, the Poker Chip will also be more accessible than our past editions. It’s as affordable as Zenith watches typically are – in fact it costs just 10% more t...
Revolution
Available in the Shop: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Gold Fever
The Laureato has come in tourbillon versions, skeletonized ceramic versions and many more. This Absolute incarnation may well be one of its appealing executions yet.
SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces the Air Command Chronograph in Titanium
Resurrected two years ago with modern materials and tech, the Air Command was originally a 1950s wristwatch reputedly created for the US Air Force that was never serially produced, resulting in just a dozen examples made. With the success of the vintage-looking 2019 remake, Blancpain has followed up with the regular-production Air Command Flyback Chronograph in a modern palette, with a blue dial and a case in either titanium or red gold. Initial thoughts The Air Command reissue of 2019 was a hit. The 500-piece run sold out quickly and and now sells for slightly above the original retail price – a feat for a modern-day Blancpain. Unsurprisingly, Blancpain has stuck to the same successful formula with the new Air Command, which retains the same case and design, but manages to look quite different (and will no doubt feel different thanks to the case metal). The dial is finished with a “sunburst” brushing that gives it a metallic glint With its livelier colours, the latest version is arguably more striking than the original remake. At the same time, it avoids the pitfall of trying too hard to look vintage, as was arguably the case with the original limited edition. And the gold version makes sense as well. The Air Command is clearly a luxury-sports watch rather than a military-issue instrument, so 18k gold feels right at home with the design. For those who find titanium too dull or too affordable, the gold version is certainly the one to go for. Notably, Blancpain has...
Time+Tide
When high fashion collides with high function - the paradox of the haute couture tool watch
Okay, weird question: Can a high fashion house known for made-to-measure dresses, luxurious silk scarves or fine handbags produce a legitimate tool watch? What? Who would even ask something like that? What kind of weirdo are you?!! Me, that’s who. I’m your huckleberry. I’m the one who will ask “why not?” more often than “why?”. … ContinuedThe post When high fashion collides with high function – the paradox of the haute couture tool watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Look which G.O.A.T just joined the sports star ranks of AP Black Panther owners
Editor’s Note: When we originally ran this story, there was a flurry of male athletes spotted wearing the AP Royal Oak Concept Black Panther Flying Tourbillon. Recently, however, a very notable powerhouse athlete has entered the mix. Her message: move over boys, cause this G.O.A.T rocks it just like the best of ‘em… When the … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Look which G.O.A.T just joined the sports star ranks of AP Black Panther owners appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Revisiting The Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30°
With the recent announcement that Greubel Forsey will be instituting a new program called Renaissance d’une Montre as of 2023, which will allow collectors to change anything they like about their watches, Tim Mosso finds it a good time to revisit what is perhaps the brand’s most underrated ultra haut-de-gamme option for collectors of modern watchmaking, the Double Tourbillon 30°.
Deployant
The alternative sports watch: Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527, new in Titanium case
The watch is an excellent offering from the brand, and is very appealing within the the dive/sports range chronograph segment. Overall, the watch looks great, and has a pedigree movement to run it. At a retail price of US$28,700 for 18K white or rose gold and US$18,500 for titanium, the watch presents a much welcome variety to the dominant Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore and Vacheron Constantin Overseas.
Revolution
Introducing the Fortis Marinemaster M-40 Snow White
Fortis gets in touch with nature on their new Marinemaster M-40 Snow White. Made of recycled steel and inspired by the natural outdoors.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: How I learned to stop worrying and appreciate the brilliance of quartz
EDITOR’S NOTE: The notion of a luxury quartz watch should never have been a contradiction in terms. Thankfully, a growing number of high-end brands have rediscovered its appeal. From Cartier to F.P Journe and Hublot to Grand Seiko, plenty of well-respected maisons are once again investing back into quartz. All of which makes sense given … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How I learned to stop worrying and appreciate the brilliance of quartz appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A WEEK ON THE WRIST: How my Grand Seiko Sport SBGM247 truly lived up to my dreams
We all have a watch brand that we love. A brand that brings something to the table we can’t ignore. Whether it be their finishing or their language of design, we’re captivated by what they’re able to create. For me, that brand has always been Grand Seiko. For years, I’ve marvelled at their movements and … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: How my Grand Seiko Sport SBGM247 truly lived up to my dreams appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Franc Vila Returns with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero
A Spanish watch designer who founded one of the hot independent brands during the lead up to the last financial crisis, Franc Vila has made a quiet return with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. Turning away from the excessive style that characterised his original watches, Mr Vila now relies on the movement construction to create a distinctive aesthetic. Produced by an unnamed independent watchmaker, the FVF1 movement is open-worked to give it an airy feel. And it features a novel “piston” mechanism for the roller indicator for the day. Initial thoughts When I first encountered the FVF1 C2, it was interesting both from a visual and technical perspective. But I was sceptical as the brand has baggage. Mr Vila’s original brand went under after the finial crisis of 2007-2008. And while it was successful before it was not – at its peak the brand perhaps 500 watches a year – that brand’s watches were oddly styled, with a dial that resembled a monkey’s head (or a cobra according to the brand itself). But a decade has passed and Mr Vila’s latest creation is appealing. The styling found in his original watches has been dialled back, which is a good thing. The movement is open-worked and unusually constructed, giving it a distinctive look despite the simple outline of the case. At the same time, it has a novel mechanical function with the “piston” adjuster for the day indicator. And it is also finished attractively to a level similar to that of the Poincon de G...
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Knowledge, kinship & “celebrity vampirism” - the psychology of why we collect watches
EDITOR’S PICK: Last week, the Only Watch 2021 auction racked up the phenomenal result of $32.1 million USD. Admittedly, there’s a charitable motive behind the initiative, but even so, the vast sums of money splurged there on watches by Audemars Piguet, F.P. Journe and alike, suggest that watch collecting is still in a very healthy place. … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Knowledge, kinship & “celebrity vampirism” – the psychology of why we collect watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive introduces their “rock pattern” dial in a tradition-rooted indigo blue
I love my Grand Seiko SBGA413 “Spring”. It gets a lot of wear time on my wrist because I enjoy its cherry blossom inspired pink hue, making it a very distinct timepiece. But it is not just the hue that is compelling. Its “rock pattern” texture (as the brand refers to it) is a fan-favourite … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive introduces their “rock pattern” dial in a tradition-rooted indigo blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”
Earlier this year Tudor resurrected its partnership with France’s navy, the Marine Nationale, some two decades after it last supplied military-spec Submariners to the navy’s divers. Now the brand has finally revealed a project two years in the making, the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”. Developed together with the members of the Commando Hubert, the navy’s elite combat divers, the Pelagos FXD is an actual military issue timepiece – the unit’s divers wear the same watch during operations – with fixed bars and a no-nonsense aesthetic. The Pelagos FXD is a time-only diver just like the Submariner ref. 9401/0 “MN” issued to divers of the French navy in the 1970s Initial thoughts Images of a Commando Hubert graduation ceremony appeared online several months ago, revealing the watch. So the Pelagos FXD was expected, but still manages to surprise. It is clearly a nod to the ref. 9401/0 “MN” of the 1970s – nicknamed “snowflake” after its hands and dial – and is as close to a vintage Submariner as a modern Tudor can be. But it still has a few extras appeal to military watch aficionados. The fabric strap has a Velcro fastener so it can be adjusted more precisely to any wrist size Most notable are the lugs, which are a reinterpretation of the fixed bars found on vintage military-issue dive watches. They form one piece with the case, making the connection between the case and strap far more robust. It’s certainly over-engineered for anyone who isn...
Revolution
Available in the Shop: Two takes on the sporty Cartier Santos
It’s no secret that integrated bracelets are hot property, and one of the greatest integrated designs is the sporty Cartier Santos. We dive into the story behind the watch that practically defines sports chic, the brainchild of the legendary Dominique Perrin. This sporty design is now over 40 years old, but it’s still relevant, as major updates in 2018, along with our latest Watchfinder examples, show.
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Exhibition In Paris Pays Homage To 90 Years Of The Iconic Reverso
The iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, one of the most emblematic timepieces of all time, endlessly renews itself in countless embodiments, even 90 years after its birth. Here Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle reports on the 'Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931' exhibition in Paris, which just opened and will run through December 24, 2021.
Hodinkee
Magazine Feature: Green Apple: The Computer Company Of Steve Jobs Is Now The Biggest Watchmaker On Earth.
According to Lisa Jackson, the brand’s Head Of Sustainability, it also wants to be the cleanest.
Hodinkee
Letter From The Editor: HODINKEE Magazine Vol. 9: From Lagos To Los Angeles
The new issue goes global – and finds surprises at every turn.
Deployant
The art of selling online: a case study featuring the new SBGW275 Genbi Valley US Limited Edition by Grand Seiko
The Grand Seiko SBGW275, released mid 2021, pioneered a direct online sales strategy by the Japanese brand. We examine this strategy and review the watch.
Quill & Pad
Full Results Of The 2021 Only Watch Charity Watch Auction
A sense of unity and purpose evident throughout the latest edition of the biennial Only Watch auction, which took place on November 6, 2021, yielded a number of interesting results for the 53 participating watches. Here are those results listed in order of their generous bids.
Deployant
Review: The New Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A
The annual calendar complication is synonymous with Patek Philippe. Not only does the brand have a sizeable collection of annual calendar pieces, it was also the first brand to commercialise the complication back in 1996. Ten years later, the annual calendar complication was combined with the chronograph for the first time in a Patek PhilippeRead More
Revolution
Introducing the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Special Edition
TAG Heuer marks the 30th anniversary of Ayrton Senna becoming the youngest ever three-time Formula 1 world champion with the Formula 1 Senna Special Edition
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Isotope Watches Hydrium Burnt Tangerine and Will Return are fresh, bold and unlike anything else
NOTE: This article has been updated to reflect Isotope Watches recently making a change to the movement within both the Hydrium Burnt Tangerine and the Hydrium Will Return. I’m going to share with you a very unpopular opinion of mine. Limited Editions (LEs) absolutely have a place in the wristwatch market. When I say that, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Isotope Watches Hydrium Burnt Tangerine and Will Return are fresh, bold and unlike anything else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon: The Butterfly Gets An Upgrade
Daniel Roth lives on in Bulgari in the Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon, an incredible watch showcasing the results of creative combinations in both business and design. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look.
Deployant
Six of the best: our celebration of independent watchmaking
We muse over the state of the independent watchmaking, and pick six of our favourites to celebrate the joys of collecting watches.
Quill & Pad
Antoine Preziuso’s Stella Polare Tourbillon Muonionalusta Fell From The Cosmos - Reprise
Despite all its scholarly technology, Elizabeth Doerr finds Antoine Preziuso's Stella Polare Tourbillon Muonionalusta to be far more wearable for slimmer wrists than some of his other creations. Not only that, this watch is the culmination of the independent watchmaker's journey to capture a shooting star.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #223 The Heirloom Watch
Mike and Kaz return to chat through another listener-submitted topic. This time they're running through the idea of "the heirloom watch" - a piece that's meant to be passed down and kept in the family for generations. You'll hear about watches that exist as heirloom watches in their families and which watches they'd choose to pass down to the next generation.