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Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom

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Rubber fetish: 5 of the best sports watches on rubber straps from monochrome to lemon fresh Time+Tide
Jan 9, 2021

Rubber fetish: 5 of the best sports watches on rubber straps from monochrome to lemon fresh

While I deeply enjoyed writing the story about unlikely grail watches on rubber straps, let’s be honest. Most of them are far out of reach for most mortals even with a serious budget, given the watches’ limited supply. So here is a look at some more accessible examples that are tough, fresh and, most importantly, … ContinuedThe post Rubber fetish: 5 of the best sports watches on rubber straps from monochrome to lemon fresh appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

His & hers watches are the anniversary gift that lets you justify adding a new piece to your collection Time+Tide
Jan 9, 2021

His & hers watches are the anniversary gift that lets you justify adding a new piece to your collection

When it comes to a significant anniversary, a diamond ring is always a welcome gift that’ll make her positively swoon with gratitude for a day or two. But why not invest in a matching set of watches? “His and hers” might conjure up slightly naff images, but the reality can actually prove to be a … ContinuedThe post His & hers watches are the anniversary gift that lets you justify adding a new piece to your collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vianney Halter Returns with the Deep Space Resonance SJX Watches
Jan 8, 2021

Vianney Halter Returns with the Deep Space Resonance

After a seven-year hiatus since the launch of his last watch, Vianney Halter is back with the Deep Space Resonance. Unveiled in prototype form but slated for delivery in summer 2021, the Deep Space Resonance is an impressively complex watch – the tourbillon assembly alone is 371 parts – that builds on the Deep Space Tourbillon of 2013. Like its predecessor, the new watch is also a triple-axis tourbillon, but now equipped with a pair of hairsprings and balance wheels within the tourbillon – both of which beat in acoustic resonance according to Mr Halter. Initial thoughts The Deep Space Resonance is a unique complication, to a degree. It’s a first in combining a triple-axis tourbillon with double balance wheels beating in acoustic, rather than mechanical, resonance. And the incorporation of the acoustic resonance phenomenon is also a first in watchmaking as far as I know, though it is somewhat fuzzy in terms of how it enhances the functioning of the watch. The tourbillon and its driving wheels The closest anyone else has come to this is Beat Haldimann with his H2 that has a flying tourbillon rotating on a single plane but with twin, mechanically-resonating balance wheels. Still, arriving as it is in 2021, the Deep Space Resonance feels overdue. The best known mechanical-resonance wristwatches came long before: the Haldimann H2 made its debut in 2005, while the better-known F.P Journe Resonance in 2000. And the Philippe Dufour Duality, which relies on twin balance w...

Zenith Introduces the Final Remake of the Original, 1969 El Primero Trio SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 7, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Final Remake of the Original, 1969 El Primero Trio

After having brought back the A384 and A386 for the 50th anniversary of the El Primero in 2019, Zenith has finally remade the last of the three original, 1969 El Primero chronographs. Like the earlier two re-editions, the Chronomaster Revival A385 is faithful to the original, retaining both the proportions of the case and dial – while also boasting a historically-correct movement, an accomplishment exclusive to Zenith since its never stopped making the calibre. As it was with the vintage originals, the A385 remake has the same the tonneau-shaped case found on the A384, but stands out with its smoked dial finish, a defining feature of the original, which also has a cool backstory. In 1970, an original A385 was fastened to the landing gear of a Boeing 707 operated by Air France on a flight from Paris to New York – and the watch kept perfect time on landing. A vintage brochure showing the original El Primero trio that made their debut in 1969 Initial thoughts Being a spot-on reissue means the A385 is unimaginative, but that precisely what makes it appealing. In fact, it’s difficult to not like the watch, which retains all of the qualities of the original – from design to landmark movement – while being reasonably priced, as Zenith watches most often are. And the icing on the cake is the dial finish, a warm tone sets it apart from the many El Primero re-editions, most of which are dressed in plainer colours. The smoked, coffee-colour dial also evokes the faded, “t...

Why can’t the watch industry match Apple Watch straps for comfort? Time+Tide
Jan 7, 2021

Why can’t the watch industry match Apple Watch straps for comfort?

Fact: we are stuck in the strap-technology stone age while the world is moving on. Is the 100-year-old technology of the spring bar beautiful nostalgia? Or simply large manufacturers being lazy? We all have a story of that one time, changing a strap to match up that outfit, fiddling with a screwdriver, scratching the lug, … ContinuedThe post Why can’t the watch industry match Apple Watch straps for comfort? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Pioneer “Cure ALS” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Jan 6, 2021

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Pioneer “Cure ALS”

H. Moser & Cie. has given its elegant take on the sports watch striking green livery in support of a good cause. The Pioneer “Cure ALS” is essentially an incentive for donations to Duke University’s research and treatment centre for amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (ALS), an incurable muscle-weakening disease – making the respective minimum-required donation gets you either of the two limited-edition watches. Both watches features the brand’s signature fume dials in striking, deep green. One is a simple three-hand watch, while the other is equipped with a flying tourbillon containing an impressive double-hairspring. Both watches have discreet lettering at six o’clock in a nod to the cause Initial thoughts Watches created to benefit good causes are heartening, particularly ones like the new Pioneer pair, where the entirety of the donation goes to the medical programme. Already an appealing watch, the Pioneer features many quintessential Moser characteristics – namely the dial finish and in-house movements – and is enhanced by its charitable nature. The brand’s most affordable steel sports watch, the Pioneer Centre Second “Cure ALS” features an upgrade over the ordinary version in the form of an 18k solid-gold rotor that replaces the standard tungsten rotor. However, design wise it is a bit too close to a standard model – the green dial is similar to that in the regular production variant, which is available in a different, but similar, shade of gre...

IN-DEPTH: Why the Rolex GMT-Master II “Bat Girl” trumps the original Caped Crusader Time+Tide
Rolex GMT-Master II “Bat Girl” Jan 6, 2021

IN-DEPTH: Why the Rolex GMT-Master II “Bat Girl” trumps the original Caped Crusader

Rolex … oh dear, Rolex … love the watches, hate the limited amount of product available. As much as it would be easy to chalk it up to brand power and allure, the reality is the crown manufacturer makes one hell of a wristwatch. The Rolex name may draw all-comers into purchasing their pieces, but … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Why the Rolex GMT-Master II “Bat Girl” trumps the original Caped Crusader appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is the return of a sepia-toned legend Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 Jan 5, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is the return of a sepia-toned legend

This morning a new generation of Omega Speedmaster Professionals were announced, but that was not the only legendary chronograph revival and rejuvenation introduced today. Zenith has unveiled a new tribute to one of their chronographs from 1969: the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 Gradient Dial. Game-changers in their day, Zenith produced three watches that were not … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is the return of a sepia-toned legend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich” which Jan 5, 2021

VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last

Editor’s note: Today, Omega did what they had been hinting at for months: they launched eight new Speedmaster references across four models, all with the new Master Chronometer Calibre 3861. The four references include regular versions with Hesalite and Sapphire and precious metal versions in Omega’s proprietary Canopus gold and Sedna gold, all with options … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch Introduces the Disney Mickey Mouse x Keith Haring Collection SJX Watches
Swatch Jan 5, 2021

Swatch Introduces the Disney Mickey Mouse x Keith Haring Collection

Continuing its series of collaborations with noted artists, Swatch has just unveiled the Disney Mickey Mouse x Keith Haring Collection, a quartet of watches inspired by the artist’s take on the iconic mouse. The collection is made up of a pair of 41 mm New Gent models, a smaller 34 mm watch, as well as an oversized, Maxi wall clock shaped like a wristwatch. An artist whose pop art outlived his unfortunately short career, Haring was best known for his graffiti in New York City’s subway stations, often depicting dancing figures or animals in outline. Haring was also a proponent of accessible art, and worked with Swatch in 1986 to create a set of four watches, which debuted alongside Pop Shop, a store in New York’s Soho district that sold affordable products bearing his work. The 1986 Swatch Keith Haring set. Photo – Christie’s Haring died in 1990 at the age of 31, but now, some three decades later, Swatch has rolled out the second Haring collection, conceived together with the artist’s eponymous foundation. The new collection revisits Haring’s earlier work that depicts Mickey Mouse, explaining the collaboration with Disney. The 41 mm Eclectic Mickey Initial thoughts Swatch excels at watches in funky design and bright colours, and the Haring-Mickey Mouse watches personify that. And the fact that the watch incorporate iconic examples of 1980s pop art make them even more interesting, less timekeeper than an affordable means of acquiring a little bit of Haring’...

RECOMMENDED READING: Enter the secret labs of COSC and learn their secrets Time+Tide
Jan 4, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Enter the secret labs of COSC and learn their secrets

Watchmaking can often seem like an intimidating world that’s inaccessible to all but the most tech-savvy. But Peter Speake-Marin is striving to change that with his fascinating website, The Naked Watchmaker. After exiting his eponymous haute horlogerie watch brand, Speake-Marin has worked as a consultant and started his site with a desire to demystify and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Enter the secret labs of COSC and learn their secrets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Jan 4, 2021

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

While the L.U.C XP is best known as Chopard’s pared-back, formal-dress wristwatch, it also forms the base for an interesting collection of limited-edition timepieces decorated in urushi and maki-e, forms of traditional Japanese lacquer – an East Asian take on the metiers d’art often found in Swiss watchmaking. The latest addition to the line its most unusual to date, being not just a decorative expression but also a new, albeit simple, complication. Decorated in lacquer and gold dust, the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen has a mechanism displaying traditional Chinese time of 12-hour days, with each hour represented by an animal of the Chinese Zodiac. Initial thoughts Watches inspired by Chinese culture are common – and increasing given the strength of demand for watches in China – but they oftentimes have an over-the-top aesthetic. Chopard, on the other hand, incorporated the Chinese motifs elegantly, resulting in an appealing watch. At a distance, the Spirit of Shí Chen has a simple, geometric style, but up close the dial reveals its decorative details. The deep-black lacquer dial – sprinkled with gold dust that evoke the cosmos – gives the watch a clean, restrained appearance, save for the elaborate, solid-gold frame and shí chen indicator. An ancient way of telling time is uncommon in a modern watch, making the shí chen indicator the highlight – appropriately enough it is rendered in gold powder and fine detail, with a gold-dusted background tha...

Grief, frustration and regret: The watches that got away… Time+Tide
Jan 3, 2021

Grief, frustration and regret: The watches that got away…

I may sound mad to anyone not consumed with a boggle-eyed obsession for watches. But as many of you know, the watches that get away can hurt just as much to talk about as a failed relationship. In the dazed aftermath, processing your heartache often requires some long and painful soul-searching. How can you ever … ContinuedThe post Grief, frustration and regret: The watches that got away… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The watch collection of tennis player Gael Monfils is as thrilling as his playing style Time+Tide
Greubel Forsey where he was enlisted Jan 2, 2021

The watch collection of tennis player Gael Monfils is as thrilling as his playing style

It is no secret Gael Monfils is an absolute superstar on the tennis court. He is known for his lively and exciting matches where his acrobatic and daredevil style really entertains fans of the sport. We recently covered his bonkers experiment with Greubel Forsey, where he was enlisted by the brand to wear their GMT … ContinuedThe post The watch collection of tennis player Gael Monfils is as thrilling as his playing style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Clockwright Introduces the Wind & Water Clock SJX Watches
Jan 1, 2021

Clockwright Introduces the Wind & Water Clock

A self-taught clockmaker in Michigan, Rick Hale has unveiled his latest timekeeping sculpture – Wind & Water. Working under the name Clockwright, Mr Hale specialises in the creation of bespoke, monumental wooden clocks, such as the KL1 introduced in 2018, which stood over 5 ft, or 1.5 m, tall. Initial thoughts One could be forgiven for thinking that Wind & Water is a static work of art rather than a functional, mechanical clock regulated by a pendulum. It’s an illusion created by the disconnected layout of the components and the deceptively simple looking gear train. The Wind & Water is, in fact, both. Naturally, the motion of the pendulum isn’t captured in still photos, and can only appreciated in person. The clock is doubtlessly a dynamic presence in real life: measuring 1.5 m by almost 1 m, it will be hard to miss on the wall. Made almost entirely out of figured cherry that has been aged for several years, the components exhibit varied grain and colour, giving it a nuance impossible with conventional metal parts. Meanwhile, lignum vitae, a dense wood that’s hard wearing and self-lubricating, is used for the bushings and rollers. And unlike metal, wood is isotropic; its strength is directional – strong along its grain, but weaker laterally. As a result, the direction of the grain has to be kept in mind when creating both the mechanical and structural parts of the clock – while also considering the aesthetics of the grain and colour – which calls for an ad...

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God – I’m Jaded No Longer Quill & Pad
Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No Dec 31, 2020

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God – I’m Jaded No Longer

This Breguet souscription pocket watch number 1836 was created just after the French Revolution in 1796 and was sold in 1807 for £600. A testament to the quality of the movement’s design and the skill of its watchmaker, after more than 200 years it still runs perfectly today, which makes it the perfect role model for Breguet's modern Tradition line. But what relationship does Ian have to it?

The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight Dec 30, 2020

The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch

Editor’s note: There’s no doubt that the Bulgari watch department is having a very big year. So far they have got hearts racing with the launch of their record-breaking Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic, the new Octo Finissimo in satin-polished steel, and then their remarkable High-End Watch novelties. And if that wasn’t enough, there … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cramain Introduces the Mark II Constant Force SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey which works i Dec 30, 2020

Cramain Introduces the Mark II Constant Force

Established in 2014, Cramain recently unveiled its first wristwatch, the Mark II Constant Force. Technically the brand’s second model – the Mark I was never commercialised – the Mark II is a hand-wound, time-only wristwatch equipped with a 20-second remontoir, and produced almost entirely by Kilian Leschnik, one half of the founding duo, the other being Dr Julian M. Stiels, a Swiss medical doctor with a keen interest in watches. Just 28 years old, Mr Leschnik completed his watchmaking studies in 2016. But the German watchmaker was already working on his own wristwatch in 2014, a timepiece that evolved out of his school watch. Cramain is a means to “live his dream as a mechanical artist”, says Mr Leschnik. Mr Leschnik and Dr Stiels developed the Mark II together, with Dr Stiels having taught himself computer-aided design, allowing him to construct do the construction of the watch and its movement. Starting two years ago, Dr Stiels has made Cramain his full-time calling. The pair are the sole owners of the brand, which is entirely self-funded. Part of it was made possible by prototyping work Mr Leschnik has done for various Swiss watch brands. Initial thoughts Impressive in both function and fabrication, the Mark II is evidently a wristwatch of extremely high quality, and one created by a watchmaker with a dedication to quality in form and finish. The Mark II’s design is a contemporary techno-mechanical style that is reminiscent of Greubel Forsey, which works i...

The Modifier’s Series: MAD Paris are radical, edgy and utterly subversive Time+Tide
Dec 30, 2020

The Modifier’s Series: MAD Paris are radical, edgy and utterly subversive

Let’s all just close our eyes for a moment and imagine the perfect watch. It would surely need to be something versatile, simple, but with plenty of well-finished details that will brighten your mood with every glance at the dial. A bit of history wouldn’t go astray either, knowing that, while trends may come and … ContinuedThe post The Modifier’s Series: MAD Paris are radical, edgy and utterly subversive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Street Fighter x Seiko Ryu edition hits you like a judo chop to the throat (in a good way) Time+Tide
Seiko Ryu edition hits you Dec 29, 2020

VIDEO: The Street Fighter x Seiko Ryu edition hits you like a judo chop to the throat (in a good way)

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’ll know we’re big fans of the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V Editions. We first took a look at the full collection, before zeroing in on the Blanka green machine and the Ken red rocket models, and now we’re going to take a closer look at … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Street Fighter x Seiko Ryu edition hits you like a judo chop to the throat (in a good way) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Material gains: what’s the deal with steel and what type is the best for watchmaking? Time+Tide
Dec 29, 2020

Material gains: what’s the deal with steel and what type is the best for watchmaking?

Whether it’s a bespoke luxury piece, a tough tool watch or even a daily diver, stainless steel is still watchmaking’s primary material of choice. Yet while 316L grade steel is increasingly used by a number of brands, there are, in fact, better, smoother and harder alternatives for watchmaking. Is there such a thing a precious … ContinuedThe post Material gains: what’s the deal with steel and what type is the best for watchmaking? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.