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Sinn Introduces the 158 Chronograph “Bund Remake” SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Because Feb 14, 2020

Sinn Introduces the 158 Chronograph “Bund Remake”

The new Sinn 158 is unusual in being a remake of a vintage watch originally produced by another company, but due to a quirk of history, simultaneously a Sinn. In the 1960s and 1970s Heuer supplied the German armed forces, or Bundeswehr, with the 1550 SG flyback chronograph. Though typically military in style, the Heuer 1550 SG was fairly distinctive, with a black-coated rotating bezel and oversized sub-dials. A favourite remake In the 1980s, Sinn was contracted by the Bundeswehr to refurbish the 1550 SG watches, resulting in some having a Sinn-branded dial. At the same time, decommissioned or surplus watches were also acquired by Sinn, which then sold them to civilians. Having become something of a cult favourite due to its design, size, and affordability, the Heuer 1550 SG has been the subject of several past remakes by Sinn. Named the Sinn 155, the earliest remake was for the Japanese market in 2007, and later editions included a 155 for German department store Manufactum. A Heuer 1550 SG “Bund” from the 1970s. Photo – TAG Heuer Because of its hands, the 158 is the most modern-looking of the remakes, but still retains all of the key elements of the original, most notably the four screws to secure the inner case to the outer case, as well as the flat step where the lugs meet the bezel. Like the original, the 158 has a bead-blasted steel case with a bidirectional, black-coated aluminium bezel. The case is 43 mm like the 1550 SG, but slightly thicker at 15.15 mm high ...

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion Gold Crystal SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Feb 10, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion Gold Crystal

As a brand known for oversized and aggressively technical watches, Hublot’s latest creation is unusually delicate and intricate. The Classic Fusion Gold Crystal is an all-black wristwatch with a striking gold-patterned dial that has surprising beauty on a small scale. Reminiscent of fossilised plants, the motif on the dial is actually solid gold, formed by vaporising the precious metal, revisiting an idea Hublot first mooted in 2017 with the experimental Gold Crystal watch that relied on gold from rivers around Geneva. According to Hublot, the technique to create the decoration was developed in-house and starts with a tiny amount of pure, 24-carat gold. The metal is heated to its melting point, and then heated some more, creating a vapour-like stream of gold. The tiny gold particles are then channelled to a cold metal plate, causing them to cool instantaneously, which form what Hublot terms “gold crystals”. These tiny pieces of gold are them sorted for size and shape, with only 20% suited for use on a watch dial, according to Hublot. The resulting pieces are then arranged by hand on a black dial, which is then covered with a transparent lacquer – in a vacuum so as to prevent bubbles forming – and then baked in an oven to set the lacquer. The rest of the watch is basically a monochromatic canvas for the gold crystal decor. It’s a stock Classic Fusion in black ceramic – the case, bezel, and back are black ceramic, while the screws are black-coated titanium. Ava...

G-Shock Introduces the 6900-Series with Metal Bezel SJX Watches
Casio Feb 7, 2020

G-Shock Introduces the 6900-Series with Metal Bezel

While the quintessential G-Shock is arguably the original, oblong DW-5000 in black plastic, the oversized DW-6900 is almost as famous. Introduced in 1995, its bulbous case was strikingly large and the watch became a fashion accessory of sorts over the next two decades, especially with the collaborations done with streetwear labels like Mastermind and celebrities like rapper Eminem. So as the DW-6900 reaches its 25th year, Casio is marking the anniversary with a special edition: the G-Shock GM-6900 with metal bezel. Identical in shape and function to the original, the GM-6900 is distinguished by its stamped steel bezel, essentially a metal outer case goes over the inner resin case. The bezel is formed into shape via multiple stamping processes, each further refining the form and curve of the bezel. It’s available in a natural steel finish, black-coating with a glossy finish and red accents, or polished gold plating. In terms of tech, the GM-6900 is basic. The electronic module inside is battery operated and has all of the usual functions of a G-Shock, including stopwatch, countdown timer, and multiple time zones. It is delivered on a black resin strap with a buckle finished to match the steel bezel. The original DW-6900 Key facts and price G-Shock GM-6900 G-Shock GM-6900B (black bezel) G-Shock GM-6900G (gold bezel) Diameter: 49.7 mm Height: 18.6 mm Material: Resin with steel bezel Water resistance: 200 m Movement: Model 3230 Functions: Digital, multifunction Windi...

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina Carbotech PAM 1661 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Feb 3, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina Carbotech PAM 1661

Three years ago, Panerai introduced the LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days PAM 700, an experimental watch boasting carbon-based innovations inside and out, including ceramic bridges and plates that do away with jewelled bearings as well as a dial coated in carbon nanotubes giving it an absolute black finish. But the LAB-ID was truly experimental, and word has it that only a handful were sold and the planned 50-piece run was never completed. But no doubt due to the popularity of the LAB-ID’s design – and unpopularity of the €50,000 price tag – Panerai has just announced the Luminor Marina Carbotech 44 mm (PAM01661). It’s essentially a smaller, simpler LAB-ID, featuring a case in the same material, as well as blue lume on the dial and hands, but with a straightforward automatic movement without any of the bells and whistles found in the LAB-ID. The Luminor Marina Carbotech 44 mm Depth rated to 300 m, the case is made of Carbotech, a carbon fibre-reinforced polymer produced by compressing thin sheets of carbon fibres at high pressure with a high-end polymer (PEEK), explaining the wave-like appearance of the material. The result is a material that is light and strong, explaining why the large, 44 mm case weighs just 96 grammes, less than half the same case in steel. The LAB-ID of 2017 The watch has a standard Panerai dial, but in the colours of the LAB-ID. Like most Panerai dials, it has a “sandwich” construction, where the hour markers are cut-outs that r...

Hands-on with the IWC Mark XVIII (reference IW327009) WatchAdvice
Ming entry point Jan 29, 2020

Hands-on with the IWC Mark XVIII (reference IW327009)

Introduction If there’s one thing that IWC has a handle on, it’s Pilot’s watches. Within the brands iconic Pilot’s collection is the popular Mark XVIII range, which serves as a charming entry point to the family. I recently had the pleasure of spending several weeks with the Mark XVIII (reference IW327009), which is the stainless steel, black dial model, on a leather strap.  Having previously reviewed several other IWC Pilot’s pieces, including the Pilot’s Automatic Spitfire, I was curious to explore the brand’s entry-level offering further. The Dial & Hands Featuring a black dial with white luminescent markers, the Mark XVIII is simple and understated. The large white markers and numerals are easy to read at a glance, and perfectly contrast with the black dial. Even in full sun, it’s easy to read the dial, which under harsher light appears to turn matt. There’ll be no red-eyes come evening thanks to the generous luminescence and large markers. Since it’s release, the Mark XVIII’s date window has been a sticking point for some, primarily for its lack of symmetry, or it’s mere existence. Ultimately this comes down to personal taste, and after several weeks of wearing the Mark XVIII – I took no issue with it. The date window, admittedly a little out of place, blended in nicely with the rest of the dial, thanks to a matching date wheel. It’s also worth noting that this is an undeniable improvement on the it’s predecessor’s (the Mark XVII) date...

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 14: The striking Alpina Manufacture Flyback Chronograph Time+Tide
Alpina Manufacture Flyback Chronograph Jan 27, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 14: The striking Alpina Manufacture Flyback Chronograph

With its striking appearance, the ‘Full Black’ Alpina 4 Manufacture Flyback Chronograph demonstrates an aggressive and distinctive personality. The model features an intense black PVD-coated case made out of stainless steel. The black dial with beige luminous pearl black applied indexes, matching the luminous beige hands, provides a stealthy, slightly vintage look. Note the ergonomically … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 14: The striking Alpina Manufacture Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Stunning video footage of a (fantasy) yellow gold Rolex ‘Hulk’ Submariner emerges, prompting Basel predictions Time+Tide
Rolex Hulk’ Submariner emerges prompting Jan 27, 2020

Stunning video footage of a (fantasy) yellow gold Rolex ‘Hulk’ Submariner emerges, prompting Basel predictions

“Forecasting future events is often like searching for a black cat in an unlit room, that may not even be there,” wrote Steve Davidson in The Crystal Ball. The art of predictions, in other words, tends to be an absolute mug’s game. When you’re trying to make forecasts about Rolex – a company that shrouds … ContinuedThe post Stunning video footage of a (fantasy) yellow gold Rolex ‘Hulk’ Submariner emerges, prompting Basel predictions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 12: A crisp classic from Frederique Constant Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Jan 27, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 12: A crisp classic from Frederique Constant

This classic three-handed model from Frederique Constant, with gloss black dial, is a dress watch par excellence. It is presented here with high-polished baton indices, razor-sharp sword hands and an elegant crocodile strap. It is generously donated by Sydney’s Wamada Jewellery, Watchfest and the Sydney Chinese Community. The Classics Index Automatic is a symphony of … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 12: A crisp classic from Frederique Constant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 11: The ceramic Bausele pilot’s watch with a difference Time+Tide
Bausele pilot’s watch Jan 27, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 11: The ceramic Bausele pilot’s watch with a difference

The Bausele Pilot Automatic All Black features an unusual and eye-catching dial layout. The dial has been rotated, moving the 12 from where it normally sits to what is traditionally the two o’clock position. Built with the modern aviator in mind, it is a functional choice, allowing the time to be easily read without removing … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 11: The ceramic Bausele pilot’s watch with a difference appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Bape and Seiko have done it again with their latest collaboration Time+Tide
Seiko have done it again Jan 21, 2020

INTRODUCING: Bape and Seiko have done it again with their latest collaboration

Continuing their creative collaborative partnership, luxury Japanese streetwear label Bape and Japanese watchmaker Seiko have just unveiled their latest limited edition creation … and we like it. Water resistant to 200 metres, this matt black marvel is, much like their first joint effort, sporting Bape’s quintessential “ABC” camouflage, which has been masterfully applied to the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Bape and Seiko have done it again with their latest collaboration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar China Edition SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jan 17, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar China Edition

Audemars Piguet has just taken the covers off the seventh and latest country-specific Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, after the editions for Hong Kong, Thailand, Switzerland, Indonesia, Japan, and Latin America – this time, it’s for the Chinese market. Launched just three months after the debut of the gorgeous skeleton version in black ceramic, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar China Limited Edition is a first for Audemars Piguet, being the only Royal Oak perpetual calendar to date in titanium. Though the material is novel, the size and finishing are identical to that of the standard model, which means 41 mm and gorgeously contrasting brushed and polished surfaces from end to end. The dial is dark grey, and engine-turned with the signature chequerboard tapisserie guilloche of the Royal Oak. It has the week-of-the-year indicator in red, traditionally an auspicious colour in Chinese culture and one that’s synonymous with the Lunar New Year. Similarly, the presentation box for the watch is finished in red, instead of the usual dark green. Another reference to Chinese culture is the limited edition size of 88 – “8” is phonetically similar to “prosper” in many Chinese dialects, making it a most desirable number. Unusually, the China edition was developed with the input of horological influencer Austen Chu, better known as Horoloupe on Instagram, who “contributed towards the overall aesthetics” according to Audemars Piguet. Michael Friedman, Head of Complication...

In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design SJX Watches
Omega cal 47.7 observatory chronometer Jan 14, 2020

In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design

There are a lot of traditions in the luxury watch industry. From the use of pegwood to polish bevels, to the Roman “IV” rendered as “IIII”, the culture of watchmaking is full of interesting customs passed down over generations. But the most fundamental tradition remains the reliance on incremental improvements towards better timekeeping. “Better” might mean absolute performance measured over a defined period such as an observatory trial (the objective of the superstar régleurs), or reliable long-term performance on the wrist. Regardless, for almost four hundred years the quest for better precision was the guiding principle of the trade. To paraphrase from historian David S. Landes’ Revolution in Time, “… it has always been the rule that the quality of [a watch] is a function of [its] precision.” Omega cal. 47.7 observatory chronometer, where the barrel and balance occupy almost all of the diameter. Image – Omega Today, some 50 years after mechanical timekeepers were left in the dust by their “better” electronic brethren, some makers of mechanical watches are more pious in their observance of this traditional approach to incremental improvement than their competitors.  And if we look carefully, we can quantify this difference in approach by looking at how different watchmakers choose to use the available energy within their movements. Our interest was to find a way to quantify which watchmakers are making high-performance timekeeping choices and ...

Drake shows us “Life is Good” with his custom Patek Philippe Nautilus designed by Louis Vuitton Artistic Director Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus designed Jan 12, 2020

Drake shows us “Life is Good” with his custom Patek Philippe Nautilus designed by Louis Vuitton Artistic Director

Drake recently took to Instagram to let us know about his latest watch acquisition - a fully custom Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar Ref. 5726 that had been black DLC-coated and gem-set with dozens of emeralds. While Drake is well known for his love of the Genevan firm, this watch was special for a couple of … ContinuedThe post Drake shows us “Life is Good” with his custom Patek Philippe Nautilus designed by Louis Vuitton Artistic Director appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Introduces the Classique Dame 9065 Tahitian Mother-of-Pearl SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jan 6, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Classique Dame 9065 Tahitian Mother-of-Pearl

Following the launch of the Classique 5177 in blue enamel last year, Breguet has now unveiled its feminine equivalent, the Classique Dame 9065. It’s dressed up in feminine style with a Tahitian black mother-of-pearl dial and brilliant-cut diamonds, but still bears Breguet’s trademark design with pomme hands and Breguet-style numerals. A limited edition of 28 pieces, the watch has a dainty rose-gold case measuring 33.5mm wide and just 7.55mm high thanks to the ultra-thin movement inside. The case is classical Breguet, featuring slim, straight lugs and a finely fluted case band. The bezel and lugs are set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds, totalling approximately 0.606 carats, while the crown is set with a ruby. They frame a dial covered with a thin slice of black mother-of-pearl. Derived from black-lipped oysters found in and around Tahiti and the French Polynesian islands, Tahitian mother-of-pearl is prized for its naturally dark colour as well as its visual complexity. Apart from being much rarer than white mother-of-pearl, it also has vivid undertones accented with overtones of marine colours like violet and green. The dial features Breguet-style Arabic numerals printed on the mother of pearl, and classic Breguet hands with a slight – and unfortunately kitschy – twist: the seconds hand has a heart-shaped counterweight. To match the heart-shaped seconds and ruby cabochon, the date features a red disc printed with off-white numerals. Visible through the sapphire case...

Up Close: Breguet Classique 5177 in Blue Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Classique 5177 Dec 26, 2019

Up Close: Breguet Classique 5177 in Blue Enamel

Breguet is often at its best when it does traditionally styled watches with a twist, something exemplified by the Classique 5175 limited edition made for its Tokyo boutique in 2017. The design was classical, but the dial was blue enamel, instead of the usual white (or occasionally, black). This year Breguet revived the same look – albeit with a date window – for the new Classique 5177, once again in blue enamel. A longstanding model in the catalogue, the Classique 5177 was launched in 2006, but in more traditional livery – white enamel, or guilloche in either basketweave or hobnail. The latest iteration, however, is the most striking of the lot, managing to be both traditional and different. Formal dress At 38mm by 8.8mm, the case is perfectly proportioned as a modern dress watch; not too big and not too small. Like all Breguet watches it has long, narrow lugs, which give it a slightly larger footprint than its dimensions imply. On the wrist the watch sits graceful and flat, proportions that give it a look of proper formality, especially when combined with its restrained design. The profile of the traditional Breguet watch case, with a fluted case band and soldered lugs All the details of the new 5177 are old school, inspired by 19th century Breguet pocket watches. The obvious ones are the Breguet-style numerals and hands, while the less obvious, and more charming, elements include the star-shaped minute markers and the Breguet “secret” signature above six o’c...

G-Shock GA-2100-1A “CasiOak” WatchAdvice
Casio ak” G-shock still Dec 25, 2019

G-Shock GA-2100-1A “CasiOak”

G-shock still to this day continues to push the boundaries of toughness and original designs with their watches. Ever since the first DW-5000C was released back in 1983, G-Shock has produced a variety of styles for both men and women. What lies at the core of all these models, however, is what the brand is famously known for: toughness and reliability. We have previously reviewed the GMW B5000GD-1 from G-Shock, which was the all-black ion-plated finish of the original GMW-B5000 model. This piece was another excellent example of a watch not compromising a brands core values while giving an updated and modern look. You can find the full review here . What we have on our hands today is one of the more popular models released from G-Shock in August 2019; the GA-2100-1A. This model has been so popular that it was almost sold out the moment it hit the stores. So why the hype? View this post on Instagram Starting the week with these two. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Have a great week all. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ – A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) on Dec 9, 2019 at 5:29am PST The massive interest in this watch boils down to one design element: the casing. The octagonal shape that G-Shock has given this model resembles the iconic case of the Audem...

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Carbon Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Dec 19, 2019

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Carbon Review

The fifth rendition of the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 sees the brand giving the model a complete carbon look. After the black ceramic and rose gold versions were released in 2018 along with the titanium and black ceramic in 2017, Zenith introduced the Defy El Primero 21 Carbon edition during this year’s Baselworld. The Defy collection is leading Zenith into the future with the brand’s innovative watchmaking being utilized in their latest models. We had a chance to review the Inventor and Classic models from the Defy collection, which were surely eye-catching pieces, to say the least. (You can find the reviews to Inventor and Defy Classic here ). Make no mistake, however; the Defy El Primero 21 Carbon is just as pleasing to look at, even if everything seems as if it’s trying to blend in with its camo-style appearance.       The beauty of using carbon fibre is that due to the nature of the material and how the alternating layers of carbon fibres are always randomly arranged, each individual piece will be unique. As carbon fibre is used for the faceted case, round bezel, crown, chronograph pushers and buckle head, each of these pieces will vary in aesthetic appearance from one watch to another. This makes the watch that you buy a truly unique piece. The carbon fibre case and the round bezel is what gets your attention first in this piece. As said earlier, the way the carbon fibre is patterned gives off a subtle camouflage appearance. After wearing the Defy El Primer...

Kikuchi Nakagawa Introduces the Murakumo White Dial SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 96 considered Nov 28, 2019

Kikuchi Nakagawa Introduces the Murakumo White Dial

Unveiled last year as the debut product of Kikuchi Nakagawa, the Murakumo is modelled on the 1930s Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96, considered by its founders as the ideal classical men’s wristwatch. Originally available only with a matte black dial, Kikuchi Nakagawa has now unveiled its inverse – the Murakumo with white dial and black numerals. Black polishing Founded by a pair of Japanese watchmakers, Yusuke Kikuchi and Tomonari Nakagawa – with Mr Nakagawa having worked at Citizen as it developed the tourbillon – the brand is all about two things: components supplied by the very best Japanese specialists (save for the dial and movement), and exceptional black polishing of all the external steel parts. The three-dimensional hands are made by precision machine shop Yuki Precision, while the case and buckle are courtesy of Matsuura Works. The parts are all black polished by hand, creating a remarkably flat, mirror-like surface. With some Swiss help The dial on the other hand, comes from Swiss supplier Gilwatch, located in Geneva. Particular attention was paid to the printed numerals, which require several layers of pad printing in order to give them height. Also from Switzerland is the movement, which is a Vaucher VMF 5401. Though high quality in finish and construction – variants of the same calibre are used by Hermes, Richard Mille and Parmigiani – the movement is relatively pedestrian compared to the rest of the Murakumo. That being said, Kikuchi Nakagawa...

5 fresh summer flavours for a DOXA summer Time+Tide
Doxa summer Summer Nov 18, 2019

5 fresh summer flavours for a DOXA summer

Summer is now thankfully just around the corner, which means we can ditch the black on black garb and finally bring some colour back into our lives and, more importantly, onto our wrists. And luckily, we’re now stocking DOXA’s entire collection of colourful timepieces, including the SUB 200, SUB 300T and SUB 1500T. These watches … ContinuedThe post 5 fresh summer flavours for a DOXA summer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction - Complications and Enamel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin minute repeater pictured above Nov 18, 2019

Highlights: Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction - Complications and Enamel

Happening in just over a week, the Phillips Hong Kong watch auction is a 321-lot event spread over two days. Notably, the first session is an evening sale titled First, made up of 52 watches consigned by their original owners. The offerings in First, as well as the main sale the next day, are diverse array ranging from a possibly unique Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon with a black dial, and a wonderfully elegant Vacheron Constantin minute repeater (pictured above) – both consigned by the first owners no less – to vintage sports Rolex watches and Omega Speedmasters. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002G Another original owner Patek Philippe grand complication, the ref. 5033P Here we cover some of the complicated watch highlights, while other vintage and sports watches will be featured in a subsequent article. The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. First, lot 833 – Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph One of the best values in the segment of perpetual calendar chronographs is a pre-owned Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. This example is in platinum, with a largish 43mm case that is suited to today’s taste for larger watches. The layout is traditional for a perpetual calendar chronograph, though the calendar windows are slightly small relative to the size of the dial. But this has a decorative flourish few of its peers have: the moon phase is a hand-engraved disc of white gold that features a tiny...

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR03-92 Full Lum SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR03-92 Full Lum From Nov 15, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR03-92 Full Lum

From the ultra-graphic BR-X to the newly launched, all-steel BR-05 collection, Bell & Ross’ capacity for reinterpreting its signature square-cased, aviation-inspired watches has proven rather remarkable. But its latest watch is a return to its roots, and perhaps the most extreme iteration of its foundational BR-03 model. The BR03-92 Full Lum is the visual negative of the BR 03-92 Nightlum launched a year ago. While the Nightlum had a black dial with luminous numerals and markers, the Full Lum has an entirely luminous dial with its indices printed in black – and a luminous strap to boot. Stealth dial and strap The watch features what appears to be the standard, unapologetically industrial BR 03 dial with oversized Arabic numerals at the quarters and large baton markers. However, the entire dial as well as the bottom sections of the hands are painted with Super-Luminova. Notably, even the date disc, visible through an aperture between four and five o’clock, is coated with “lume”. And not only is the dial fully luminous, it also uses the brightest Super-Luminova, specifically C3. It is the purest form of Super-Luminova with a pale-yellow appearance during the day, while emitting an intense and long-lived green glow in the dark. As a concession to daytime aesthetics, a majority of watches utilise white lume, which is fully white in daylight and emits a blue glow in the dark. This is simply because white offers a more attractive contrast against black or blue dials. ...

Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Editor’s note Nov 10, 2019

Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph

Editor’s note: If you’re in the market for a steel sports watch with a chronograph complication, you really are spoilt for choice. Rolex’s Daytona, Omega’s Speedmaster, Tudor’s Black Bay Chronograph … the list goes on. However, if you’re looking for a timepiece that meets all of the aforementioned criteria, while still possessing a real and genuine … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the El Primero A386 Phillips Limited Edition SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Nov 8, 2019

Zenith Introduces the El Primero A386 Phillips Limited Edition

In a first for watchmaking, an establishment watchmaker has collaborated with an auctioneer in creating a pair of limited edition wristwatches, resulting in the El Primero A386 designed by Phillips. The tie-up has resulted in a pair of watches, one in steel with a “tropical” dial, and the other in striking black and gold – with the total number made being just 69, a nod to the year of the El Primero’s launch. The two watches are actually part of the same creative process that spawned the platinum El Primero A386 One-Off that will soon be sold for charity. Aurel Bacs and Alex Ghotbi of Phillips were responsible for conceiving the look of both watches. According to Phillips, the duo imagined being designers of the brand-new El Primero in 1969, rather than looking back from today and creating a modern remake. The yellow gold El Primero is consequently a combination that was common back in the day – think Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” though never produced by Zenith. And the steel version is not actually a “tropical” dial, rather it is a reference to the brown colours fashionable in design and apparel during the 1960s. Hence it has its sub-dials in three shades of brown, a riff on the “tricolour” registers of the original A386. And the steel watch comes with a bonus: a steel “ladder” bracelet with straight end links that’s a replica of the same found on the original A386. Key facts and price El Primero A386 Phillips Limited Edition Ref. 30.P38...

Hands-On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked Nov 7, 2019

Hands-On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch”

At Only Watch 2017, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in black ceramic – but with a one-off blue dial – sold for a whopping 800,000 Swiss francs, with two phone bidders driving it to nearly seven times the high estimate. It was the third most expensive watch in the sale. This year’s contribution is no Royal Oak – far from it – but it’s surprisingly worthy of a second look. In fact, it’s probably the best-looking watch to emerge from the brand’s often criticised Code 11.59 line. Amidst the flak heaped upon it, the Code 11.59 range had a couple of standouts, including the Tourbillon Openworked. And that’s where AP started for Only Watch 2019. The Tourbillon Openworked Only Watch retains the slim, beautifully finished skeleton movement, eschewing the contentious Code 11.59 dial altogether. And the movement has a two-tone finish that smartly highlights the most important mechanical components. To match the movement, the Only Watch edition features a two-tone case that does justice to the Code 11.59 construction in a way the uniform colour of the standard models simply couldn’t. Superbly constructed In terms of size, the case is identical to the standard model – 41mm by 10.7mm. Beyond immediate impressions, the case is wonderfully constructed with a subtle and intriguing mix of shapes and finishing made obvious by the two-tone materials. The octagonal case middle is pink gold, while the rest of the case, including the lugs, are white gold,...

Minase Introduces the Divido with Dégradé Dial SJX Watches
Minase Nov 2, 2019

Minase Introduces the Divido with Dégradé Dial

Having been established by Kyowa Co., Ltd, a precision toolmaker that also produces watch cases and bracelets, Minase is a brand that excels in, well, cases and bracelets. Its specialty is the high degree of surface finishing of the case and bracelet using the Zaratsu, or Sallaz, polishing technique that creates a remarkably flat, mirrored surface. Minase just gave its flagship Divido a new dégradé dial, which has a dark grey finish that darkens to black around the edges. Though similar looking dials are offered by Swiss watchmakers, and sometimes known as fumè or smoked dials, the new Divido dial is distinctly Japanese. Inspired by Japanese sumi-e paintings – that rely on different concentrations of black ink for shading and depth – the dégradé dial starts as a copper disc that is the hand-painted with several layers of black Japanese lacquer, each layer with a different concentration of black, creating the graduated finish and leaving each dial unique. The dégradé lacquer dial costs about 10% more than the standard model, which is reasonable. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard Divido, which is to say extremely sharply finished. All components of the case and bracelet are produced and finished in house. Every surface of the case is finished, with contrasting brushed and polished surfaces employed throughout. Even the folding clasp sports with a mix of surfaces finishes. The polished surfaces are finished with the Zaratsu technique – that...

MIDO OCEAN STAR TRIBUTE SPECIAL EDITION REVIEW WatchAdvice
Mido OCEAN STAR TRIBUTE SPECIAL Oct 29, 2019

MIDO OCEAN STAR TRIBUTE SPECIAL EDITION REVIEW

INTRO Recently, we had the opportunity to spend several weeks with the Mido Ocean Star Tribute Special Edition. Released to mark the brand’s 75th anniversary, Mido launched two variations of this vintage-inspired dive watch, which is available in either a Mediterranean Blue or a Deep Black model. Today though, we’re going hands-on with the Deep Black variant. FIRST IMPRESSIONS This is a lot of watch for the money, the package you’re getting for under $1,500 is substantial – and a reminder that you don’t have to spend big bucks to get a capable and attractive tool watch. THE DIAL & HANDS Legibility is no issue on the Ocean Star Tribute thanks to the use of Super-LumiNova on the hour-markers, baton-style hands and bezel. Keeping in line with the heavily vintage-inspired design, both the applied indices and hands are an off-white cream colour, imitating the patina’d look often seen on vintage dive watches. The lollipop-style orange seconds hand offers a pop of colour and compliments the custardy indices. At 3 o’clock you’ll also find an unobtrusive day/date function, which blends into the rest of the dial thanks to a matching date wheel.  THE CRYSTAL At first glance, you might mistake the Ocean Star Tribute’s boxed Sapphire crystal for acrylic. However, tougher and less prone to scratches, the use of sapphire crystal blends modern materials with vintage design, ensuring legibility. The curved edges of the crystal offer up some intriguing reflections and dis...

OPINION: Custom watches -  cool or cliché? Time+Tide
Rolex or Oct 26, 2019

OPINION: Custom watches -  cool or cliché?

CWe watch enthusiasts love an excuse to come over all opinionated, don’t we? A little “controversy break” from our worship of calibres and references. So how about this: after-market customising. Would you or wouldn’t you? Is it cool to ice-up a Patek and black-out a Rolex – or is it a crime against horology? One … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Custom watches – cool or cliché? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.