Hodinkee
Introducing: The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001
A platinum update to the brand's first round reference, the latest Calatrava retains its vintage roots, pleasing enthusiasts and newcomers alike.
Results for ETA 2892-A2
3,779 articles · 2,652 videos found · page 66 of 215
Hodinkee
Fratello
Introducing: The Rolex Land-Dweller Collection
For the second year in a row, the Rolex releases were leaked on social media. Therefore, the new Land-Dweller collection was expected. Still, with Rolex, seeing photos hardly exposes all the details. The headline news is clear, though, and the largest brand is back in the market with its first integrated-bracelet model since 2003. It […] Visit Introducing: The Rolex Land-Dweller Collection to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Marks 270 Years with Most-Complicated-Wristwatch-Ever
This year is quite the anniversary for Vacheron Constantin, with the brand turning 270 years old. To mark the occasion appropriately, the Geneva-based manufacture created the mighty Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première, the culmination of eight years of development. Now the most complicated wristwatch ever, this unique wristwatch boasts 41 complications on two faces, encompassing five rare functions as well as a world first – a celestial object tracker. All of that is contained in a surprisingly compact, but still large, case. (A detailed list of the complications is available in the addendum below.) Initial thoughts Timepieces of such complexity reach beyond the realm of horology and can be regarded as engineering marvels. In a sense the Solaria is not unexpected since VC has a long history of making ultra-complications – “The Berkley” pocket watch was just unveiled a year ago – but the Solaria is one of the most fascinating watches in recent memory. The numbers behind the Solaria are impressive. Beyond the 41 functions, the watch is powered by the cal. 3655 that’s made up of 1521 pieces and the subject of 13 patents. The watch took eight years to develop and construct, which is impressive for a single timepiece. Surely VC will trickle down some of the developments related to cal. 3655 and install them in simpler timepieces, but condensing 41 complications into a wristwatch no thicker than 15 mm is an engineering feat that cannot b...
SJX Watches
Insight: Rolex Land-Dweller Cal. 7135, Patents and Innovation Explained
Rolex has entered uncharted territory with the Land-Dweller, arguably the most advanced and radical creation from a hitherto conservative brand. The Land-Dweller is significant, perhaps even game changing, not because of the integrated bracelet or patented solid lume, but because of the cal. 7135, a new calibre with an all-new double-wheel escapement known as Dynapulse and a ceramic balance staff. (This story details the technical advances in the movement; for a review of the watch, check out the accompanying story.) The Land-Dweller 40 mm in platinum The fundamentals Why is it significant, or even game changing? The cal. 7135 is the first in-house, serial production Rolex movement that is high frequency, beating at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. All things being equal, a higher frequency promises superior timekeeping. Despite the higher frequency, the cal. 7135 still has a 66-hour power reserve. That’s thanks in part to the Dynapulse escapement which is 30% more efficient than a conventional Swiss lever escapement, while occupying essentially the same volume of space. The balance assembly of the cal. 7135 Dynapulse is one of several innovations that make the cal. 7135 a landmark, especially since it will be produced at scale. While Rolex has traditionally been associated with incremental innovation, the cal. 7135 is a revolution. The Land-Dweller is the subject of 32 filed patents, 18 of which are unique to the watch. Moreover, 16 of the patents unique to the watch are ...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Rolex Land-Dweller
The most discussed debut of Watches & Wonders 2025, the Rolex Land-Dweller is an entirely new model with a new case and bracelet, but that’s not why it is significant. While Rolex is conventionally associated with incremental innovation, the Land-Dweller is game changing. Not because of the design, but because it’s equipped with perhaps the ultimate mechanical movement produced at scale in contemporary watchmaking, a calibre that’s the subject of 16 patents. (The finer technical details can be found in our accompanying story.) The cal. 7135 inside the Land-Dweller is a new, sophisticated calibre equipped with an indirect-impulse, double-wheel escapement that’s entirely in silicon – christened Dynapulse – matched with a ceramic balance pivot. And it’s a high-frequency calibre running at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. Cumulatively, that makes for a superior timekeeper on the wrist. The Land-Dweller debuts in two sizes, 36 mm and 40 mm, in three basic variants: white Rolesor, Everose gold, and platinum. There are also a handful of high-jeweller versions. The Land-Dweller in white Rolesor on Roger Federer’s wrist. Image – Rolex Initial thoughts The Land-Dweller is both surprising and predictable. The styling is surprising; the integrated bracelet echoes historical watches like the Oysterquartz and ref. 5100 Beta 21 but I never expected it. The Land-Dweller looks and feels surprising for a Rolex Oyster. At 9.7 mm it’s the slimmest Oyster Perpetual in the cat...
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NOT A Rolex Alternative - Ginault Silent Service Review
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon
Bianchet, an independent watchmaking brand founded in 2021 and based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, has quickly established a distinctive identity with its modern tonneau-shaped designs. Earlier this year, the brand introduced the B 1.618 UltraFino, a milestone model release that brought several firsts: an ultra-thin case, a metal bracelet, and an automatic movement. Now, to mark […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Raúl Pagès RP2
Revealed just a few days ago, the RP2 is the second in-house wristwatch of Raúl Pagès, an independent watchmaker with a background in restoration. The RP2 retains the clean, tasteful styling that characterised his first watch, the RP1. But unlike the RP2, his latest creation was conceived to be mechanically simpler – but equally high quality – and more accessible in terms of price and availability. So the question is, does the RP2 live up to the high standards set by his preceding creation? Initial thoughts The answer, in short, is yes. On its face the RP2 is not a surprising watch. Predictably, it’s a time-only watch with a finely decorated movement, which is exactly what many enthusiasts are seeking at the moment. The RP2 is also one of many such three-hand watches that have been launched in the last three years or so. But the RP2 is different for a few good reasons. For one, its creator, Raúl Pagès, is both a watchmaker and restorer. His background can be discerned from many details, particularly in the movement, like the bimetallic balance and concealed screw for the crown wheel. The quality of the watch is impeccable. The high level of execution is especially evident on the movement. Though the movement is clearly styled, it incorporates many refined details in a tasteful manner. The calibre doesn’t try to do too much and it looks right. The dial is even cleaner but again incorporates notable details. That said, it is a little too stark for me, and I would...
Deployant
New and Reviewed: Citizen Series 8 831 with video
Released on February 21, 2025, we got our hands-on the new Citizen Series 8 831 for a few weeks, and bring you this detailed review of the novelty.
Quill & Pad
New Release: Raúl Pagès RP2 – White Agate follows Soberly Onyx. Independent Watchmaking at its Best!
Raúl Pagès goal for the RP2 was to design a timeless classic, where purity of form meets technical excellence. A watch that would serve as the foundation of his collection for years to come. Every detail, from the clean lines to the entirely in-house movement, reflects his pursuit of balance between apparent simplicity and absolute refinement.
SJX Watches
Singer Reimagines the Valjoux 236
An offshoot of the cult “restomod” automaker specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined has up till now specialised in chronographs powered by the novel, modern AgenGraphe movement. Now the brand is taking the opposite tack with the Singer Reimagined Heritage Collection. The Heritage chronograph retains the signature Singer style, but is equipped with a rejuvenated and decorated Valjoux 236 movement that was originally made in the 1970s. The “new old stock” movement makes the Heritage more affordable than Singer’s earlier chronographs; it retails for CHF16,700 before taxes. Initial thoughts The Heritage chronograph has an appealing design with thoughtful details, which is unsurprising since Singer founder Marco Borracino is a designer by profession. Many of the details evoke 1970s motorsports chronographs, but the watch still manages to look original and capture the Singer house style. That said, the Heritage is less interesting than earlier Singer chronographs because the movement is pretty straightforward. The Valjoux 236 is a good example of high-quality industrial watchmaking of the mid-20th century, moreover it’s been dressed up well in for the Heritage. But it’s still a fairly basic chronograph movement that doesn’t have the inventiveness of the AgenGraphe found in Singer’s flagship Track 1 chronograph. But the Heritage chronograph is priced fairly for what it is. The CHF16,700 price tag makes it a competitive proposition. And it enjoys the adv...
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Citizen just made a Tissot PRX killer for under $500 - Hands-on New 2024 Zenshin Super Titanium
SJX Watches
Raúl Pagès Returns with the RP2
Three years after his RP1 wristwatch, Raúl Pagès has taken the covers off the RP2. Inheriting the clean aesthetic that characterised his earlier creation, the RP2 is a three-hand watch with a dial of white agate. Inside is a hand-wind movement modelled on historical precision chronometers. Mr Pagès has turned to specialists for many of the raw components of the RP2, and instead focuses on decorating and completing the watches, allowing him to plan to produce the 50-piece edition over two years. Initial thoughts The sheer number of time-only watches launched by “artisanal” independent watchmakers has made the concept mostly uninteresting for me. Mr Pagès’ new creation is yet another time-only watch with a highly finished movement. But Mr Pagès is the real deal. He is an actual watchmaker who can create with his hands, and more than that, Mr Pagès is also a restorer who worked for Parmigiani in the past. His background and skill set him apart, and because of this the RP2 also stands out from the rest of the time-only crowd. Though simple on its face, the RP2 incorporates interesting details, ranging from the hands to the raised flange around the dial. These reflect Mr Pagès’ thoughtful approach to watchmaking. But above all, his approach is exemplified by the movement, which is clearly a calibre that has a robust construction and refined finishing. Personally I would change a few elements of the design, which feels too empty and stark as it stands. However,...
Fratello
Retrospective: Tomas Looks At The Early Flying Officer “Truman” - The Most Iconic Gallet Watch Ever Produced
If there is any Gallet watch that almost certainly sells for more than $10,000, it’s an early version of the Flying Officer with a black dial. Although it is a very expensive watch, proper research and documentation are limited. The details raise multiple questions. Let’s start with the basics. The Flying Officer, the most important […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Looks At The Early Flying Officer “Truman” - The Most Iconic Gallet Watch Ever Produced to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer brings a fresh dimension to the Planet Ocean series, combining the robustness of a professional dive watch with the practicality of a worldtimer complication. Featuring a striking black ceramic case and a visually detailed dial that includes a laser-ablated Earth map, it caters to travelers and adventurers alike. The new additions come in two colors.
Monochrome
First Look – Discovering and Diving with The New Doxa SUB 250T GMT
Doxa has been on a real streak these last few years, with new releases what feels like every few months. Since mid-2023 there have been two different Clive Cussler special editions, the whole “Beta” collection, the whole 200T collection, a destro 300T for you southpaws, a whole bunch of new emerald green variants, and a […]
Monochrome
Introducing – Fresh Dial Colours and Textures for the Delma 1924 Tourbillon
Delma, founded in 1924, is a family-owned brand based in Lengnau, Switzerland, with a solid track record of rugged, high-performance sports watches adapted to racing, airborne and diving pursuits. Last year, Delma surprised its fan base with the release of a tourbillon to celebrate its 100th anniversary powered by the brand’s first proprietary movement. Following […]
Video
MT&W; Oracle GMT - If TRON had an official watch - a unique GMT
Worn & Wound
Tempo Rubato: the World’s First Mechanical Wrist-Metronome by Gaku Okada
I first came across a short video of the Tempo Rubato metronome on Instagram. Before I could message my contact in Japan who posted it, I already had an email waiting for me in the inbox from him introducing this wrist metronome device and its creator to me. I exchanged emails to understand Gaku Okada’s background and details of his wrist metronome. Okada was born in 2002 in Hokkaido and was influenced by music from an early age, especially jazz drumming. Unlike many watchmakers, he did not cultivate a specific interest in watches, however he did develop a knack for making complex mechanical components. After graduating from high school, his skills brought him to Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry, for watchmaking classes. During his freshman year, Okada developed the concept of a mechanical wrist metronome. This idea originated from his practical need as a jazz drummer, as he frequently sought a method to quickly and accurately establish tempo before performances. Although electronic metronomes were readily available, he wanted to create a compact mechanical device that could be worn as a watch. As a student at the watchmaking school, Okada started part time work at the Precision Watch Tokyo company, working with watchmakers Hajime Asaoka and Jiro Katayama. Asaoka is a well known master watchmaker and the creator of the Kurono Tokyo and Takano brands. Katayama is the founder of the popular Otsuka Lotec brand. Under their mentorship, Okada developed his skills and acquir...
WatchAdvice
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Review: Is It The Ultimate Luxury Travel Watch?
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time is a piece I’ve wanted to review for a while now, and finally, my wish has come true. So, how did it live up to expectations? What We Love The versatility of the piece being a sports watch that dresses up or down Ease of use of the Dual Time function and quick set date The brushed silver dial really stands out with an easy to read layout. What We Don’t The watch can wear on the larger side, especially on the bracelet The bezel is prone to surface marks, like most polished metal bezels The strap thickness at the base tends to flare out a little depending on your wrist shape and size Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 There’s something special about a watch that can seamlessly blend luxury with everyday practicality – and that’s exactly what Vacheron Constantin has achieved with the Overseas Dual Time. As part of the brand’s legendary Overseas collection, this piece is designed for those who appreciate fine watchmaking but also need something versatile enough to handle life on the move. With its sporty-yet-sophisticated aesthetic, an in-house movement built for precision, and a clever dual-time function that makes tracking multiple time zones effortless, the Overseas Dual Time is a serious contender for the ultimate travel watch, which for a guy who has a Rolex GMT “Batgirl” as his normal go-to travel piece, this is saying something. But, first, ...
Worn & Wound
Casio Introduces New Versions of the Pro Trek PRG-340 with CASTLON Straps
In 1995, Casio launched their Pro Trek line with the DPX-500 (a topic briefly discussed in my previous article about the Casio MW-43). Thirty years later, they’re still one of the best bang-for-buck options available when it comes to rugged, reliable timekeeping. A brand synonymous with the outdoors––and the many physically demanding activities associated with it––Pro Trek has announced the release of new versions of their most eco-friendly timepiece: the PRG-340. The central focus of this new model is its strong emphasis on sustainability and functionality. The case is crafted of bio-based resin and its cloth band is made of CASTLON, a rather novel material manufactured using 100% plant-derived Nylon 11 fiber produced with the oil of castor plants. Not only carbon-neutral and treated with a fire-retardant finish, these CASTLON bands claim to be more chemical resistant, wear resistant, and flexible at low temperatures compared to their conventional Nylon 6 counterparts. There are two different variants of the PRG-340, one with an Olive Green case and CASTLON band (PRG340B-3) and the other with a Coyote Brown case and faux leather band (PRG340L-5). These two options are quite versatile and will match most any outdoor gear typically worn on hikes and other outdoor adventures. From an aesthetics perspective, the PRG-340 is reminiscent of other Pro Trek models released by Casio but does a good job separating itself with its duplex LCD display and bi-directional rot...
Worn & Wound
Time to Pack: Packing for Work and Play with the Nomatic Method Luggage
Packing for work trips requires efficiency, organization, and the right gear-and the Nomatic Method Carry-On delivers on all fronts. In this video, Kat Shoulders takes a closer look at this modern, expandable carry-on that’s been her reliable travel companion over the past several months. Designed to hold up to 20% more than other bags of its size, it features thoughtful details like silent-glide wheels, a sturdy aluminum handle, and a built-in compression panel to help maximize space. Whether it’s navigating busy airports or fitting extra photo gear for longer trips, this bag is built to handle it all. Inside, packing cubes play a key role in keeping clothes compact and organized, while a selection of travel accessories-from the Navigator Tote to a Bellroy dopp kit-help streamline the packing process. Tech and camera gear are also essential, including the Profoto Clic Octa Softbox for on-the-go shoots, an iPad or MacBook for editing, and a portable power bank to stay charged while traveling. Whether you’re a frequent traveler or just looking to upgrade your packing game, this video offers a bit of insight into how to make the most of your carry-on space.Get all the details on Kat’s packing style and her professional tools, along with her very own gear hacks and tricks of the trade. We hope that Time to Pack will continue to be that kind of content you didn’t even know you needed-watch-based content that delves into travel gear and packing in ri...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Louis Vuitton x Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6
Louis Vuitton has turned to Kari Voutilainen to reimagine its distinctive travel watch. The Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6 takes its cues from the Escale Worldtime, retaining the trunk-inspired case (but here in tantalum and platinum) and hand-painted, multi-colour dial, but with the artisanal elements of Voutilainen in the form of a guilloche dial and the cal. 28 movement with a second time zone. The LVKV-02 is Louis Vuitton’s second of five collaborations with independent watchmakers, after the inaugural LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie by Rexhep Rexhepi that debuted in 2023. As with the earlier project, the proceeds from the LVKV-02 will go to fund the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. “LVOUTILAINEN” Initial thoughts The LVKV-02 is instantly recognisable as a collaborative effort because the design cues of both brands are obvious and complementary. In tactile terms, it has the polished, quality feel of the typical Voutilainen watch. But the LVKV-02 is expensive, very much so, which is its only weakness. With its recent launches like the Convergence and Taiko Spin Time, Louis Vuitton has adopted a more subtle aesthetic as opposed to the extravagant style that defined much of its earlier watches. I, however, like the colourful aesthetic of the Escale Worldtime, enough that I own one. I think it remains one of the brand’s most original designs. So the LVKV-02 has an easy appeal for me. It brings back the hand-painted dial but on a much, much higher level ...
Video
Your Watch is Worth Less than You Think. Watch Prices are Falling... is that a Bad Thing?
Teddy Baldassarre
Glashütte Original Reveals New "Frosted" Dials for Senator Excellence
German luxury watchmaker Glashütte Original has been on a streak of masterful moon-phase creations in recent years, releasing some absolutely exquisite dial colors in its PanoMaticLunar model (including the green-dial model I review here) and unveiling the first PanoLunarInverse model toward the end of 2024. Today, the brand continues shooting for the moon, in a visual and horological sense, with the launch of two new versions of its Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase family boasting two eye-catching - and historically inspired - new dial colors. Both of the watches’ dials - one in frosted silver, the other in frosted copper, achieved in a galvanic process - are created in homage to the rich mineral deposits once mined in the Ore Mountains, near the state of Saxony and the watchmaking town of Glashütte. Their finely grained surfaces, meant to evoke the thin layers of ice on the mountain rock, play host to the familiar and elegant details of the Senator Excellence family - including hand-applied, blued Roman numeral markers in gold and blued, polished poire hands complemented by a central seconds hand with the brand’s “double G” symbol as counterweight. The watches’ signature functions occupy carefully chosen spots on the dial without disrupting its overall clean, harmonious look. The large “Panorama” date display settles snugly in a double window at 4 o’clock, while the moon-phase elegantly balances it in the opposite corner above, its ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Ressence Type 7, The Brand’s First Integrated Metal Bracelet and GMT Watch
The orbital-infused world of Ressence is a rather special one, but it has just gotten even more exciting. Ever since its debut in 2010, the Belgian brand has etched away its place in the independent watchmaking scene with highly original creations revolving around a unique concept. From the Type Zero to the oil-filled Type 3 […]
SJX Watches
Ressence Complicates Things with the Type 7 GMT
We’ve said it before, but 2025 is a big year for anniversaries in the watch business, with brands like Breguet and Audemars Piguet celebrating 250 and 150 years, respectively. But it’s not just the big brands that have something to celebrate; this year also marks the 15th anniversary of Ressence, which has just launched its first proper complication, the Type 7 GMT. At launch, the Type 7 is available in Night Blue or Aquamarine, the latter being an 80-piece anniversary edition. It’s also the first Ressence to come equipped with a bracelet, enhancing its versatility. Initial thoughts Time flies when you’re having fun, which must be why I was shocked to realise Ressence is turning 15 years old this year. The Type 7 keeps the good times going with several of my favourite Ressence features, like the oil-filled dial chamber and the compression lock system for the keyless works, creating what is arguably the brand’s most wearable and versatile watch to-date. The wearability starts with the new grade 5 titanium case, which is just 41 mm by 14 mm. While not a small watch, it’s the smallest Ressence to feature the brand’s proprietary locking system for the winding and setting mechanism, which to-date has only been available on the much larger 46 mm Type 5 dive watch. This endows the Type 7 with 50 m of water resistance, which means you can take the watch pretty much anywhere. This versatility is enhanced by the matching grade 5 titanium bracelet; a first for the bra...
Quill & Pad
Tim Mosso visits the Amelia Island Concours d’Elegance: Classic Supercars and Vintage Cars in Abundance
The Amelia Island concours d’elegance – “The Amelia” – has been held annually in the Florida region of the same name since 1996. For Tim Mosso, the diversity and quality of the classic metal on display demands both respect and reflection; this is a rare pleasure.
Monochrome
Introducing – The new Speake Marin Ripples Gold
The Ripples Collection was presented as Speake-Marin‘s vision of a luxury sports watch with an integrated design, blending the brand’s signature aesthetic with a modern case and a distinctive dial, standing apart with its unique visual identity and refined details. When Speake-Marin celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2022, it marked the occasion with a special […]
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