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Geneva Watch Days 2026: the 10 releases worth knowing so far

From a chronograph-free Zenith El Primero to a €390,000 Gerald Genta minute repeater, ten of the watches that actually landed at Geneva Watch Days 2026.

Pushing case design with the Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5-Day Power Reserve Time+Tide
Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5-Day Dec 20, 2022

Pushing case design with the Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5-Day Power Reserve

What is a watch case? Is it simply a container for the movement? The frame to a beautiful piece of art? For Hublot it seems the case is much more and should be a continuation of the design. And nowhere do we see this ideology play out better than in the new Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon … ContinuedThe post Pushing case design with the Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5-Day Power Reserve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: The Unique Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001 Dec 9, 2022

Auction Watch: The Unique Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001

On very rare occasions does Grand Seiko create unique versions of its watches. But it has done so with a unique version of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon – the one-off reference SLGT001 – that will go under the hammer at Phillips’ New York auction December 11, with some proceeds from the sale going to a children’s charity. Anyone who read our earlier in-depth, two-part story on the Kodo (part I covers the watch and part II its technical features) will understand the the impressive technical achievement that is its movement. The SLGT001 has all of that, but in a unique execution specifically for the auction. Engraved “Unique Piece No. 1/1” on the back, the SLGT001 is instantly recognisable as a one-off. While the standard version of the model has a monochromatic grey palette, the SLGT001 is set apart by its colour: heat-blued and gilded components against rhodium-plated bridges. Most of the screws are blued steel, while the three-armed tourbillon carriage is blued titanium. And the SLGT001 is also distinguished by its case material. Unlike the standard model that has a case made up of both titanium and platinum, this is entirely in Brilliant Hard Titanium, the brand’s proprietary alloy that boasts a brighter, more silvery hue than most titanium alloys. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of the SLGT001 will go to the Children’s Heart Foundation. Besides benefiting a good cause, the winning bidder will also get a trip to Japan to meet the team behind...

Editorial: The Geneva Auction Season, November 2022 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Nov 12, 2022

Editorial: The Geneva Auction Season, November 2022

A much-anticipated series of auctions just concluded in Geneva, the first sale season to take place after financial markets started to crack in mid 2022. All the major auction houses – Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s – staged sales in the Swiss city, and almost everyone who was anyone turned up (or took part by phone or online). The season’s top performer by the numbers was Christie’s, which sold CHF55.5 million of watches, fees included, largely thanks to the collection of former Ferrari Formula 1 chief Jean Todt. It displaced the traditional number one, Phillips, which sold CHF45.0 million. The Phillips auction at La Reserve. Image – Phillips A few takeaways are immediately apparent in the results. One was widely expected: “hype” watches have come off their highs, often by a third or more. Including obvious candidates like sports watches, namely the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Overseas, but also brands that enjoyed massive run-ups in value during the pandemic like F.P. Journe. Values are still up from the pre-pandemic lows, but if prices overcorrected on the way up, then it is likely they will do so on the way down. Sotheby’s, for instance, had several dozen examples of various Nautilus and Royal Oak models in its sale, mostly with estimates close to peak values from late 2021. As a result, a third of the watches went unsold. The dip in values was also evident with F.P. Journe, certainly not a “hype” brand but one that enjoy a stellar run during ...

The GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet inducted into Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Time+Tide
Ming ly leading Oct 29, 2022

The GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet inducted into Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire

Chinese watchmaking has been getting an increasing amount of recognition, and deservedly so, with CIGA Design seemingly leading this expansion. First being awarded the Challenge Watch Prize at the 2021 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the brand has once again been recognised for their achievements, this time by another important Swiss institution, … ContinuedThe post The GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet inducted into Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Phillips Stages Largest-Ever Watch Preview Exhibition in Singapore SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2499 Oct 12, 2022

Phillips Stages Largest-Ever Watch Preview Exhibition in Singapore

With the fall auction season about to begin, Phillips will soon open its preview exhibition in Singapore, the largest of its kind to date. The exhibition is an expansive assembly of 210 watches encompassing highlights from the Geneva, Hong Kong, and New York auctions. Amongst the watches on show are a few of the most important watches that will be sold this year, a few of which will undoubtedly set records when they go under the hammer. Independent watchmaking is strong represented with watches like the George Daniels Spring Case Tourbillon, not one but two examples of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, and of course several early or limited edition F.P. Journe watches. The Simplicity from the Geneva auction, a recent example in white gold made after the first 200 pieces And from the Hong Kong auction, a Simplicity also in white gold but from the original 200-piece edition The selection from establishment brands is equally varied and impressive. It includes Geneva’s Lange 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court Edition”, a one-off made to benefit charity, and from the Hong Kong sale a crisp first-series Patek Philippe ref. 2499 in yellow gold. The engraved, hinged back of the 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court” The first series ref. 2499 The preview exhibition in Singapore takes place at the St. Regis Singapore from October 13-15. It’s open to the public from 11:00 am to 7:00 pm daily. The St. Regis Singapore 29 Tanglin Rd Singapore 247911 This was brought to you in partner...

The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date you never knew Sep 16, 2022

The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed

Rolex is known for being fairly conservative and calculated these days. Sure, there are a few exceptions like the recent falcon’s eye dial for the Yachtmaster, say, or their colourful expressions with their gem-set watches like the leopard and rainbow Daytona watches. But, more often than not, their novelties involve incremental updates – slight refinements … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sex, biceps and watch choices - how your wrist size affects your life Time+Tide
Sep 11, 2022

Sex, biceps and watch choices - how your wrist size affects your life

There’s a famous Bond scene in Octopussy where Roger Moore’s 007, clad in his customary white tuxedo, sits down to play a spot of high-stakes backgammon. His adversary – the malevolent Kamal Khan – is surreptitiously cheating, using a set of loaded dice. Unfazed, Bond accepts Khan’s 200,000 rupee wager and, using a Fabergé egg … ContinuedThe post Sex, biceps and watch choices – how your wrist size affects your life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ten big watch beauties under $10k for those with large wrists Time+Tide
Aug 20, 2022

Ten big watch beauties under $10k for those with large wrists

As Zach Blass stated in his recent article, size does truly matter. Yet in our cases, we represent opposite sides of the spectrum. Where Zach is a staunch proponent of those with slender wrist, I represent those with large wrists who both love and appreciate a big watch. We had our moment in the early … ContinuedThe post Ten big watch beauties under $10k for those with large wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Nomos Ahoi Atlantik is a dive-capable watch with many tricks up its lugs Time+Tide
Nomos Ahoi Atlantik Jun 23, 2022

The Nomos Ahoi Atlantik is a dive-capable watch with many tricks up its lugs

The year is 2013, and Nomos is still a relatively small and unknown brand outside of the true watch-enthusiast circle. All the models we know them for now were around – from the Club to the Tangente, but Nomos sought to create a dive-capable watch. Now, when a brand normally does this, it often follows … ContinuedThe post The Nomos Ahoi Atlantik is a dive-capable watch with many tricks up its lugs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the new AP Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition the best rainbow watch design ever made? Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet ? Jun 1, 2022

Is the new AP Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition the best rainbow watch design ever made?

What’s the biggest difference between Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet? For me, while both manufactures embody the best of traditional watchmaking, Audemars Piguet does a far better job of re-interpreting their tradition towards modern sensibilities and bringing their creations to a younger demographic. It’s the 50th anniversary of the AP Royal Oak this year, and … ContinuedThe post Is the new AP Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition the best rainbow watch design ever made? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s Sets Record for Most Expensive Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2499 Sotheby’s just Apr 27, 2022

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s Sets Record for Most Expensive Patek Philippe Ref. 2499

Sotheby’s just concluded the first sale of the spring auction season, which now moves to Geneva with a series of auctions in the Swiss city starting the first weekend of May. The season opened strongly with several records set at Sotheby’s, most notably with The Nevadian Collector, a sale of Patek Philippe timepieces all owned by an American collector. Made up of 38 watches and one lot of vintage Gay Freres bracelets, the auction was led by an unsurprising favourite that sold for a record price – the possibly unique ref. 2499 in pink gold with a dial signed “Gobbi Milano”. Sotheby’s consultant Sam Hines bringing the hammer down on the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” Four telephone bidders competed for the watch, with bidding swift and aggressive. One of the bidders went big early on, taking the bid from HK$19 million to HK$30 million with one bid – an increment of about US$1.4 million. Eventually one of the phone bidders triumphed and set the record for the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction. The pink ref. 2499 “Gobbi” hammered for HK$50 million, resulting in a total of HK$60.265 million including the buyer’s premium. That’s equivalent to about US$7.68 million, making it the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction by some margin. The last record holder was the ref. 2499 “Asprey” that sold in 2018 for about US$ 4 million at Sotheby’s in Geneva – which was also sold by the Nevadian. While the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” was the headline lot,...

Watches And Wonders 2022 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked And What We Didn’t Like At The World’s Biggest - And Now Only - International Watch Fair In Switzerland (Photofest!) Quill & Pad
Apr 10, 2022

Watches And Wonders 2022 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked And What We Didn’t Like At The World’s Biggest - And Now Only - International Watch Fair In Switzerland (Photofest!)

Watches and Wonders 2022 (previously SIHH) recently took place in Geneva. It is an invite-only event for retailers, journalists, and collectors. According to the fair organizers, nearly 22,000 unique visitors (including almost 1,000 journalists) attended. But enough about that, let’s get to what you’re here for: our unblemished comments on the watches we saw, which you can find right here!

VIDEO:  Unpacking why the Omega x Swatch BioCeramic MoonSwatch is out of this world Time+Tide
Omega x Swatch BioCeramic MoonSwatch Mar 24, 2022

VIDEO:  Unpacking why the Omega x Swatch BioCeramic MoonSwatch is out of this world

We’re going to call it a space oddity. Albeit it a very welcome one at that. But today’s news that Omega have teamed up with Swatch to create a playful take on the Speedmaster Chronograph in the form of the BioCeramic MoonSwatch has caught the watch world by surprise. In the one corner there’s Omega, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO:  Unpacking why the Omega x Swatch BioCeramic MoonSwatch is out of this world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega x Swatch BioCeramic MoonSwatch Collection Two Broke Watch Snobs
Omega x Swatch BioCeramic MoonSwatch Mar 23, 2022

Omega x Swatch BioCeramic MoonSwatch Collection

Today the watch world was stunned when word got out that Swatch and Omega have collaborated to bring us a set of 11 new, affordably-priced "Speedmasters." Now, considering the available color options, the proprietary BioCeramic cases, and reliable quartz movements - it's clear that these will be a hit with everyone from budget-conscious collectors to hardcore Speedy fanatics.

Omega x Swatch blast off together on the BioCeramic MoonSwatch collection Time+Tide
Omega x Swatch blast off Mar 23, 2022

Omega x Swatch blast off together on the BioCeramic MoonSwatch collection

Standing in the Omega HQ in Bienne, Petros Protopapas is visibly excited. The Brand Heritage Director of Omega is holding forth under a vast cosmic backdrop that depicts the planets in technicolour detail in a star-lit sky. “This revolutionises the Swiss watch industry for me,” declares Petros with tangible emotion in his voice. “This is what … ContinuedThe post Omega x Swatch blast off together on the BioCeramic MoonSwatch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A host of savvy celebs are snapping up this super-accessible and inexpensive watch Time+Tide
Dec 13, 2021

A host of savvy celebs are snapping up this super-accessible and inexpensive watch

People often bang on about the corrosive effects of fame and fortune. Purported negatives include paparazzi harassment, endless selfie requests from fans, not to mention the apparent obligation to give your child some god-awful name in a misguided attempt to express your “creativity”. On the positive side, however, enjoying a massive public profile does seem to … ContinuedThe post A host of savvy celebs are snapping up this super-accessible and inexpensive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II “Only Watch” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s tourbillon Nov 3, 2021

Up Close: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II “Only Watch”

The first Chronomètre Contemporain was the watch that vaulted Rexhep Rexhepi into the top league of independent watchmaking. Now the young watchmaker has debuted the followup, first as a unique example for Only Watch 2021. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) resembles its predecessor inside and out, yet is entirely different in every aspect, from movement construction to the geometry of the lugs. But what it does share with the RRCC I is a gorgeously finished movement and thoughtful design. Initial thoughts On the face of it, the RRCC II for Only Watch looks like the original Chronometre Contemporain dressed in another dial. But it is entirely new in practically every aspect, right down to the geometry of the case. The RRCC II is akin to a generation of the Porsche 911 – the styling seems unchanged but it is actually a brand new car. The most obvious point of difference is the seconds hand – the RRCC II is a deadbeat seconds. That in itself is novel, because the jumping seconds complication is almost always implemented with a centre seconds. In fact, I can’t think of another watch with a deadbeat subsidiary seconds that isn’t part of another complication. In F.P. Journe’s tourbillon for instance, the deadbeat seconds is part of the constant force mechanism. Even the movement appears superficially similar, though it is quickly evident that it’s a new calibre solely from the two large jewels for the barrel pivots. This has twin barrels, in...

Peren Introduces the Nera Rogue Diver SJX Watches
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms which Oct 19, 2021

Peren Introduces the Nera Rogue Diver

Founded by Romanian native Andy Bica-Popi but based in Switzerland, Peren styles itself as a Transylvanian watch brand. The micro-brand’s offerings are characterised by a clean, functional aesthetic, a style encapsulated by the Nera Rogue. Peren’s first dive watch is loosely inspired by the Tornek-Rayville TR-900, a rare and obscure dive watch that’s actually a rebadged Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which the Swiss watchmaker made for its American agent who in turn supplied them to the US Navy in the 1960s. Utilitarian and cleanly styled, the Nera Rogue takes after the TR-900, which is reflected in the hour markers and bezel, but is evidently not a vintage remake. And in a nod to today’s fashionable colour, the Nera Rogue has dark-green dial. Initial thoughts Granted, the population of micro-brands is ever increasing, especially those making dive watches, but a handful are both interesting and affordable enough to be worth a second look. Since micro-brands typically rely on the same few outsourced movements (often Sellita or Miyota), it falls to design to distinguish one from another. And Peren manages to set itself apart – albeit only on the second try. The Nera Rogue is actually Peren’s second go at the design. What’s really new on the Nera Rogue is actually its bezel – which is the primary element inspired by the TR-900 – while the rest of the watch is actually identical to a past model known as the Nera that was equipped with a smooth, unmarked bezel, m...

Swatch Goes Vintage with the 1984 Reloaded Collection SJX Watches
Casio n Swatch constructed Oct 11, 2021

Swatch Goes Vintage with the 1984 Reloaded Collection

Launched in 1983 – with the driving force behind its conception being Ernst Thomke, the then-chief of movement manufacturer ETA – Swatch set out to be the antithesis of the traditional Swiss-made watch. Cased in plastic and quartz, the Swatch watch was cheap, cheerful, and vividly colourful. But it was a hit, with its unusual, funky styling making the Swatch a fashion statement – a million watches were sold in the first year. To celebrate the occasion, Swatch constructed a 13-tonne, 162 m-long mega-watch and hung it from the front of the Commerzbank skyscraper in Frankfurt. A homage to London’s Big Ben, the giant clock was a brilliant publicity stunt that boldly announced the ambitions of Swatch. The oversized watch indicated the time and three pieces of information: “Swatch”, “Swiss”, and the retail price of “DM60”. Now Swatch is remembering 1984 with a quintet of watches, each a recreation of the year’s bestsellers, but with a twist. Instead of plastic as the originals were, the remakes have cases of Bioceramic, while the straps are made of bio-sourced plastic – making the entire watch a little friendlier to the environmental than the 1980s originals. Initial thoughts Given the diverse and imaginative offerings at Swatch, it’s unusual for the company to reissue vintage watches, though it’s done a couple in the recent past. Interestingly, the 1984 collection resonates with the broader, luxury-watch market, which frequently returns to past hit...