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Results for Glashütte Original

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Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph XV Limited Edition: The Restrained One

Glashütte Original's fifteenth limited Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date keeps things deliberately quiet. 100 pieces, German-speaking markets only, the in-house Calibre 37-02. Here's what actually changes for the XV.

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Glashütte Original Launches Two New Senator Chronographs for 2026, and They Could Not Be More Different

A cleaner dress flyback and a tool-watch navigator replace the outgoing Panorama Date models. Both are worth your attention.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Richard Mille RM 53-02 Oct 2, 2023

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Following our look at notable complications and artisanal masterpieces on offer at Sotheby’s Important Watches I in Hong Kong, we now consider the independent watchmaking highlights in the sale that takes place on October 7. The offerings in the sale range from establishment names like Philippe Dufour – on offer is a Simplicity 37 mm in platinum made after the original run – to newcomers like Pascal Coyon with a Besançon Observatory-certified chronometer. And the highlights also include the headline lot of the auction, the extravagant Richard Mille RM 53-02 in blue sapphire crystal. Important Watches I happens on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here.  The Richard Mille RM 53-02 Lot 2116: Pascal Coyon Chronometre  One of the most affordable offerings in the sale is the Pascal Coyon Chronometre, a watch inspired by the French watchmaker’s career as a watch and clock repairer in Bayonne. Though based on a Unitas 6498, Mr Coyon’s hand-wound movement bears a strong resemblance to classical 19th-century pocket watches from the likes of Longines. While the movement is still a Unitas 6498 at its core, it has been dressed up with frosted bridges and a snail cam regulator, amongst other things. Being one of his earlier watches, this has a plain, 42 mm polished steel case with a stepped bezel and a white lacquered dial with red numerals for “12” and “60”, complemented by Breguet-style hour and minute hands. This ...

IWC Revives the Big Pilot’s Watch Markus Bühler with a Tourbillon SJX Watches
IWC Revives Oct 2, 2023

IWC Revives the Big Pilot’s Watch Markus Bühler with a Tourbillon

One of the least known but perhaps most interesting iterations of IWC’s trademark oversized pilot’s watch is making a comeback, but with an upgraded movement and precious metal case. The Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler retains the key elements of its namesake 2008 original, but with a self-winding tourbillon movement inside a platinum case. The tourbillon is flying, while its cage takes the form of a turbine blade. A simple concept that played to the Big Pilot’s historical roots, the original model was conceived by a young Markus Bühler as part of a contest for IWC apprentices, but appealing enough that IWC made a dozen as a limited edition. Mr Bühler naturally won the contest and now oversees the entire assembly process at Manufakturzentrum, the IWC facility where both production of parts and assembly of in-house movements is done. Powered by the in-house cal. 82905, the Tourbillon Markus Bühler will naturally be put together at the Manufakturzentrum. Markus Bühler, now the Associate Director of Watch & Movement Assembly at Manufakturzentrum Initial thoughts The original Markus Bühler was interesting and appealing because it captured the spirit of a pilot’s watch in a novel manner while still retaining the functional aesthetics expected of such a watch. The turbine seconds was a simple modification that worked perfectly, both visually and conceptually. Now the idea has been brought back, but in a fancier package. The new Markus Bühler sti...

Highlights: Notable Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Autumn Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5004R Sep 27, 2023

Highlights: Notable Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Autumn Auction

Commencing in early October, the autumn auction season begins with Sotheby’s Important Watches I, a catalogue of 205 lots that will be sold on October 7 in Hong Kong. The auction includes artisanal timepieces, examples of independent watchmaking creativity, and exceptional complications. Here, we present eight notable complications including some unsurprising, six-figure picks like a Patek Philippe ref. 5004R with a special-order dial and a Rolex ref. 6062 “Stelline” from the original Japanese owner. But the list includes some that may fly under the radar but deserve recognition, such as the travel-ready Richard Mille RM62-01 (albeit conceived for flying private) and an impressive Patek Philippe ref. 942 grand complication pocket watch that includes a grande and petite sonnerie, putting it in the top rank of all pocket watches. Important Watches I takes place on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 2166: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar ref. 345.056E  The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has effortlessly fuses the renowned Lange 1 design with a complex movement, conspicuously excluding the tourbillon found in its larger counterpart. At launch, the watch was available in two guises: pink gold with a grey dial or the more popular, limited edition white gold with a “salmon” (pink gold) dial, as we see here.  In contrast to conventional calendars that employ sub-dials, the Lange 1 perpetual calendar sea...

Review: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, the Accelerating Chronograph SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Sep 21, 2023

Review: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, the Accelerating Chronograph

The 1971 Porsche ad quoted Dr. Ferry Porsche in bold letters beneath a Porsche 911: “There is no such thing as the perfect car. There is only the perfect car for now. A car with all the latest proven engineering concepts and design ideas.” The recently presented TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, with its novel chronograph complication, illustrates this idea to the letter. A reference to the acceleration of the original 911, its central seconds hand speeds up for the initial 9.1 seconds of an elapsed minute before slowing down to complete a full minute thanks to non-circular gears. Offered in two distinct versions of steel or rose gold, the Chronosprint commemorates not only the 60th anniversary of the watchmaker’s iconic Carrera collection but also pays homage to Porsche’s legendary creation-the 911 (initially presented as the 901 in 1963). The TH20-08 Initial thoughts TAG Heuer’s Carrera x Porsche collection has expanded with the pair of special-edition Chronosprints. However, compared to the earlier 911 RS 2.7 model that was merely a cosmetic makeover, these new Chronosprint aligns more closely with the ethos and spirit of Porsche because it incorporates a simple but clever additional complication within the chronograph. For one, the design evokes the aesthetics of Porsche dashboards from the 1970s, creating a dynamic and speed-focused timepiece. The styling serves as a tribute to the racing heritage of the carmaker, but also one which will appeal to ...

Accutron Watches Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Accutron Watches Buyer's Guide Accutron Sep 15, 2023

Accutron Watches Buyer's Guide

Accutron watches have been around since the 1960s, and yet the brand has become one of the freshest faces in the watch industry in the 2020s, anchored by its combination of uniquely innovative movement technology and a defiantly retro design language. When one considers how ahead of its time the original Accutron watches were - back when they were still called Bulova Accutron, part of that company's sprawling portfolio - their success in the 21st Century under a newly independent Accutron brand should surprise no one. Read on to familiarize yourself with Accutron and its pioneering role in watchmaking, from its early days to its most recent releases on the market now. Made in America: Bulova History The history of the Accutron brand begins with the Bulova Watch Company, founded by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova (above) in New York City in 1875. One of the most important historical watch brands with roots in the United States, the company is today part of the Japanese Citizen Group and can look back upon a history littered with milestones: the first full line of ladies’ watches, the first television commercial, some of the earliest wristwatches produced for American troops during World War II, and one of the earliest celebrity watch endorsements - by none other than legendary aviation pioneer Charles Lindbergh, for its Lone Eagle watch - to name just a few. Throughout this history, Bulova had developed a well-earned reputation for innovating and for adapting ...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Glow-in-the-Dark Monaco Night Driver SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Sep 14, 2023

TAG Heuer Introduces the Glow-in-the-Dark Monaco Night Driver

Following its recent run of strikingly modern iterations of the classic Monaco, like the Skeleton Dial and the one-of-a-kind Only Watch split-seconds chronograph, TAG Heuer debuts the Monaco Chronograph Night Driver Limited Edition alongside the side of the 2023 Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix. Dressed in shades of grey during the day, the Night Driver transforms into something else altogether at night. It retains the outlines of the vintage original in terms of design, but the Night Driver gets a luminescent chapter ring and sub-dials for nighttime legibility – a nod to the Singapore Grand Prix’s status as the first-ever Formula 1 night race. Initial thoughts After the recent Monaco models that were very contemporary, the more traditional looks of the Night Driver are a positive development. And even then the Night Driver incorporates an intriguing twist, making it more than just a vintage-ish watch. The Night Driver has a dial that uses Super-Luminova as a key element of the design, bringing to mind the Monza Flyback Chronometer. But here the lume is even more generously applied than on the Monza.  Moreover, the grey tones of anthracite, grey opaline, and case coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC), complement the lume well, creating a vintage feel that evokes faded “ghost” dials while still being a modern watch. Like other titanium Monaco models, the Night Driver is light in hand and on the wrist, despite the relatively large case. The thickness of the case, a cons...

Hands-On: Fleux Skin Divers Balance Throwback Inspiration with Modern Vibes Worn & Wound
Sep 12, 2023

Hands-On: Fleux Skin Divers Balance Throwback Inspiration with Modern Vibes

We love seeing watches that break free of the well established genre specific design codes, offering an original perspective that doesn’t necessarily take the beaten path. When it comes to dive watch in particular, this can be a challenge, though it can indeed be done. The dive watch template is simple and straightforward, making it especially challenging to carve a unique path, which often happens in subtle ways. This is a genre with a deep and easily recognizable heritage, and many new watches and watch brands tend to lean on these a bit too heavily, creating a somewhat homogeneous landscape of divers. The watches we’re looking at today from Fleux, are no exception, however they do bring something unique to the table at the same time.  The watches are the FLX001 and FLX002, a pair of skin divers that offer a perfectly comfortable design at a glance, sitting well within that dive watch archetype mold. There is clear old-school inspiration at work, but there’s a modern sheen applied that manages to find a pleasant balance between the inspiration, and the forward looking intent. These watches manage this in a manner that can be tricky to put a finger on, meaning it feels relatively organic in the process, and somewhat retro-futuristic as a side effect. A fact first tipped off by the brand’s motto: “vintage inspired; continually new”. $450 Hands-On: Fleux Skin Divers Balance Throwback Inspiration with Modern Vibes Case Stainless Steel Movement SII SH38A Automati...

The US Open is Nearly Complete, Which Means Only a Few Days Left to Order the Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster II Worn & Wound
Ming Sunday Sep 6, 2023

The US Open is Nearly Complete, Which Means Only a Few Days Left to Order the Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster II

The US Open, the professional tennis season’s final major tournament, is currently in its closing stages, which means you’re running out of time to purchase the watch seen here, the Rallymaster II by Maurice de Mauriac, made in partnership with Racquet magazine. This is a sequel to the original Rallymaster, released last year in conjunction with the French Open in a run of just 40 pieces. The quick sell out of that watch prompted the team behind it to make the next one a little more available, with a strategy this time of limited production: anyone who’d like to can order the watch, but only during the dates of the US Open. The tournament began on August 28, and the last match will be played on September 10 (this coming Sunday), at which point tennis fans will have to wait for what we imagine will be a Wimbledon or Australian Open themed watch, but that’s speculation for another day.  The Rallymaster II takes the whimsical, colorful formula of the first watch and spins it just slightly to accommodate a color palette that makes a little more sense for the marquee event in US tennis. The US Open, year after year, is a spectacle, drawing viewers both in-person and on television that might be only casual tennis fans, but can’t help but get caught up in the tournament’s inherent drama. A combination of the boisterous New York crowds, matches that stretch late into the evening, and competitors playing in top late season form always make for an exciting two weeks.  ...

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Brew x Worn & Wound Sep 5, 2023

Introducing the Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulators

Normal is boring. Normal is not original. Normal is never pushing boundaries. People are not normal. People are unique. People are all limited editions of one. Not being normal has always been in the DNA of Brew Watch Company, founded by Jonathan Ferrer. This is why we’ve covered Brew on Worn & Wound since its launch back in 2015. When other brands were sticking to round cases, Brew went rectangular. When other brands were focused on mid-century divers, Brew made watches inspired by the joy of coffee. Brew didn’t zig when others zagged, because they were never on the same road to begin with. The post Introducing the Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulators appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic for the Royal Oak Supersonnerie SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic Sep 5, 2023

Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic for the Royal Oak Supersonnerie

Audemars Piguet turned to an unorthodox material for its latest striking timepiece, the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in black ceramic. Introduced in two variations, one with white gold markers and the other with baguette-diamond indices, the monochromatic new reference is the next step in this historic brand’s long history of chiming watches.  Initial thoughts Overall, this is an excellent update to a watch that was already very good. The original Royal Oak Supersonnerie is entirely in titanium, a lightweight metal with good acoustic qualities, and has very subtle aesthetics with a smoked grey dial. In contrast, the new all-black ceramic repeater feels more modern and in-line with what we have come to expect from Audemars Piguet, especially for the Royal Oak that has always been available in unconventional materials ranging from carbon composite to BMG. The inherent contradiction of an extremely expensive striking watch in a material not usually suited for transmitting sound is obvious. Yet it is also logical since it demonstrates the function of the brand’s proprietary Supersonnerie amplifying system that arguably transcends the case material. The titanium Supersonnie strikes loud and clear, but we have yet to hear the ceramic repeater strike in real life. It would certainly be interesting to have them both side-by-side to compare. While the brand already has several Royal Oak models with bracelets in ceramic, the new repeater is debuted only on a rubber s...

Zenith x Kari Voutilainen x Phillips Calibre 135 Observatoire: 10 of the World’s Highest Precision, Competition-Winning Chronometer Movements Ready for the Wrist - Reprise Quill & Pad
Zenith x Kari Voutilainen x Sep 2, 2023

Zenith x Kari Voutilainen x Phillips Calibre 135 Observatoire: 10 of the World’s Highest Precision, Competition-Winning Chronometer Movements Ready for the Wrist - Reprise

After seven decades carefully stored away in the Zenith archives, ten of the original chronometry competition-winning movements find their way into a limited set of new watches thanks to Phillips, legendary independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, and Zenith's current management.

Launching 9/5 - A New Brew x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Brew x Worn & Wound Sep 1, 2023

Launching 9/5 - A New Brew x Worn & Wound Limited Edition

Normal is boring. Normal is not original. Normal is never pushing boundaries. People are not normal. People are unique. People are all limited editions of one. A new Brew x Worn & Wound Limited Edition is launching Tuesday, September 5th at 12pm ET. Mark your calendars as it’s not going to be a normal day. The post Launching 9/5 – A New Brew x Worn & Wound Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Zenith Gets Colorful with the High Frequency Defy 21 Chroma II Worn & Wound
Zenith Gets Colorful Aug 22, 2023

Zenith Gets Colorful with the High Frequency Defy 21 Chroma II

It’s been said over and over again, on podcasts, in our posts, reviews, DMs, and private conversations: Zenith is effectively unmatched in their ability to straddle the line between their history and a forward looking, contemporary design language. Heritage focused models like the various Defy Revival releases that we’ve seen in recent years recreate the original watches they’re based on to a fastidious, almost obsessive degree, while releases on the other end of the spectrum are unapologetically modern in their materials, design cues, and ethos. Today, Zenith releases a pair of watches that find themselves in the latter camp, part of a platform that continues to evolve and exist as a showcase for the brand’s most adventurous ideas.  The Defy 21 chronographs have one of my personal favorite watch industry tricks up their sleeve. It’s an ultra high-frequency chronograph capable of measuring down to the hundredth of a second, a level of accuracy that frankly outpaces the fine motor skills of just about anyone who will operate it. But that’s (somewhat) beside the point. When you push the “start” button on one of these things, and see the second hand whip around the dial at a speed that’s frankly somewhat frightening if you’re used to chronos that operate at a traditional pace, it’s kind of intoxicating. Even if you’re been around watches a long time, it’s hard to synthesize that what you’re seeing is the result of springs, gears, and wheels operat...

Nomos × Revolution Tangente Neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’: An Ode To Resilience | Revo Talks Revolution
Nomos × Revolution Tangente Neomatik Aug 15, 2023

Nomos × Revolution Tangente Neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’: An Ode To Resilience | Revo Talks

Join Wei & Constant as they discuss the inspiration behind our latest collaboration with NOMOS Glashutte - the Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’. Housed in a 40.5mm stainless steel case, the Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’ features the Fibonacci sequence subtly integrated into its minute track. It is powered […]

Oris Releases the Dat Watt Limited Edition II, their Second Collaboration with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat Worn & Wound
Oris Releases Aug 14, 2023

Oris Releases the Dat Watt Limited Edition II, their Second Collaboration with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat

The latest release from Oris, and one that highlights their ongoing Change for the Better initiative, is a sequel of sorts to a watch that became a cult hit when it was released in 2021. The Dat Watt Limited Edition II is very much in the same vein as the original Dat Watt Limited Edition, but with a few twists to make this new LE its own thing. Its release comes alongside an announcement from Oris that they’ve extended their relationship with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat (CWSS) by another two years, the organization that works to protect the Wadden Sea, which provides the inspiration for the new watch.  The Wadden Sea covers 11,500 square kilometers in northern Europe, and includes shoreline in Denmark, Germany, and the Netherlands. This intertidal zone is a unique geographical space in that it happens to be the world’s largest unbroken tidal flats system, and is in a largely undisturbed state, thanks in part to the efforts of the CWSS. Because of the area’s size and the fact that it has been so well protected, it’s an important area for the study of the 10,000 species that live there. The Wadden Sea has held UNESCO World Heritage Site status since 2009 based on its importance to global biodiversity.  Like the first Dat Watt Limited Edition, this new release uses the Aquis diver as a platform, here in its 43.5mm footprint. The dial’s green tone is inspired by the waters in the Wadden Sea’s salt marshes, which act as critical natural storage for CO2. Thi...

Up Close with Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’ Revolution
Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik Aug 11, 2023

Up Close with Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’

Get up close with our newest limited edition in collaboration with NOMOS Glashütte, the Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience,’ featuring the Fibonacci sequence, a symbol of growth and resilience, subtly integrated into its minute track. For a sleek, pared-back aesthetic, it has a midnight blue dial with white indexes and hands and […]

In Depth: Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1 SJX Watches
Aug 11, 2023

In Depth: Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1

Marco Lang made a comeback in 2020 with his eponymous brand and the Zweigesicht-1. The year before the German watchmaker departed his prior brand after disagreements with the investor who was the majority owner, which allowed Mr Lang to revert to being a true independent watchmaker. Despite a relatively conservative face, the Zweigesicht is quirky and original from a technical perspective. Zwei gesicht translates as “double faced”, which describes the watch literally. It has two faces, one on each side of the case, both of which indicate the time. The watch can be worn on either side thanks to lugs that are removable (in an operation that requires delicate manual work). And the movement incorporates a novel, and perhaps unnecessary, shock recorder. Initial thoughts To start with, zwei gesicht is a mouthful for non-German speakers. Perhaps for that reason, fellow German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne opted for made-up words like Zeitwerk and Datograph. But despite the unfamiliar name, the watch is elegant in form, measuring under 10 mm high, and impressive in decoration and construction. The zwei gesicht nature of the watch gives it two distinct appearances, a low-key conventional front and an elaborate, mechanical reverse. Two-faced watches are not new by any means, but Mr Lang’s approach is notable for rely on conventional lugs and by consequence, maintaining a classical appearance. In contrast, most double-faced watches are either rectangular or have unusual lugs. T...

Zodiac Celebrates 70 Years of the Super Sea Wolf Skin Diver with a New Huckberry Collaborative Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Zodiac Celebrates 70 Years Aug 9, 2023

Zodiac Celebrates 70 Years of the Super Sea Wolf Skin Diver with a New Huckberry Collaborative Limited Edition

Our friends at Huckberry have partnered with Zodiac for their second collaborative limited edition, an homage to the original version of the Sea Wolf from 1953 with subtle bronze accents. This year marks the 70th anniversary of the iconic Zodiac skin diver platform, and the easy to wear dive watch arguably makes more sense today than it ever has. A skin diver, by definition, is a little lighter, smaller, and more casual than a full throated “pro” dive watch, while still being more than robust enough for day to day wear, including any number of water based activities. And as Zodiac has proven over and over again, their simple and straightforward design is a fantastic blank canvas for collaborators, with the Sea Wolf easily taking on any number of personalities and characteristics as colors shift and change. The new limited edition made with Huckberry is suitably vintage inspired, with the bronze adding an additional layer of refinement.  The new Super Sea Wolf Bronze is a bit of a fakeout in that it’s not a full bronze watch, but keeps the bronze content limited to the rotating dive bezel and crown. This is a smart choice, giving the watch a subtle two-tone appearance and dressing it up just a tad from its tool watch roots. Bronze, of course, is known to patina quite heavily and in a very particular way, so we’d expect the bezel to take on a weathered look as this is used. According to Huckberry, the application of bronze here was inspired by early diving helmets, ...

Wempe Adds a Trio of New Watches to their Iron Walker Collection Worn & Wound
Wempe Aug 8, 2023

Wempe Adds a Trio of New Watches to their Iron Walker Collection

For the better part of two decades, Wempe has been producing high-quality watches out of their home in Glashütte, Germany. Three new models from their Iron Walker collection have been released, each exhibiting the Vorliebe that our Teutonic cousins have for precision, beauty, and exceptional quality. The first to debut in the new Iron Walker collection is the Diver. Taking inspiration from the steel constructions that defined the era of imagination in 1920’s New York, the Diver marries the simplicity of a good watch and the beauty of a great watch into one. At 42mm, it’s a robust size but the overall finish, such as the diminutive day date and the lumed hands, help to keep it from feeling too bulky. The Diver comes in two colorways (blue and black), is water-resistant to 30 bars, and runs on a ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement, giving the wearer up to 50 hours of power reserve.  Next up in the Iron Walker collection is Tide. Mixing maritime influences to the collection, this watch is as much about function as it is about form. While one could enjoy the balance of blue and black against the steel case alone, the real beauty is the internal mechanism of this watch. For life on the coast, the Tide’s rotating bezel offers maximum visibility on how much time will elapse between the next low or high tide. Similar to the Diver above, the Tide shares similar specs, such as an ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement, 30 bars of water-resistance, and lumed hands and hour markers. Last, ...

Pöhlmann-Bresan Premieres with the Prestige SJX Watches
Lang & Heyne Aug 8, 2023

Pöhlmann-Bresan Premieres with the Prestige

The Prestige from the newly renamed Pöhlmann-Bresan (the brand started life as Junge Uhrmacher) is one of the latest additions to Saxony’s long and storied history as the epicentre of German watchmaking. Based in Dresden, just a short drive from the nation’s horological heart in Glashütte, the Pöhlmann-Bresan workshop is up and running with all of the traditional hand skills one might expect. Remarkably, this has been achieved just ten years after the founders met each other while working with and learning from Marco Lang while he was still at Lang & Heyne. Initial thoughts The watch in question is the perfect showcase for the artisanal techniques mastered by founders Lukas Pöhlmann and Josef Bresan during their careers thus far. Inside is the Pöhlmann-Bresan JU26-01 that was originally designed by LIP and subsequently produced under licence in the Soviet Union as the Pobeda cal. 2608. Pöhlmann-Bresan found this calibre attractive because of its unusual bridge architecture. The JU26-01 before being mounted in the case, showing the depth that has been achieved. Thanks to the central seconds hand wheel being set directly above the centre wheel of the gear train, the bridges are uncommonly high. This double-layered effect means that incredible visual depth can be achieved if the train bridge is appropriately skeletonised, as Messrs Pöhlmann and Bresan have done here. Additionally, the rapidly-moving central seconds wheel acts as a natural and dynamic focal point, a...

The King Seiko SJE095 takes its dial inspiration from Japan’s national flower Time+Tide
Seiko SJE095 takes Aug 8, 2023

The King Seiko SJE095 takes its dial inspiration from Japan’s national flower

The King Seiko SJE095 highlights a chrysanthemum pattern as Japan’s national flower. The case is based on the original King Seiko from 1965 with an even thinner profile. It’s a limited edition of 600 pieces and will be available from October 2023. Although its return to market focused mainly on recreating vintage models, King Seiko … ContinuedThe post The King Seiko SJE095 takes its dial inspiration from Japan’s national flower appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Sportiest Nomos Gets an Update with a New Size and Two New Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Nomos Gets Aug 4, 2023

The Sportiest Nomos Gets an Update with a New Size and Two New Dial Colors

Any watch enthusiast who has been around the corner once or twice has no doubt discovered Nomos, Germany’s worst-kept secret in distinctive design and excellent quality and finishing for its price. Nomos’ unapologetically Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic may not be for everyone, but it’s easy to admire how far this Glashütte-based watchmaker has come in just over three decades. Today we look at the Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38, a watch that is new inside and out. The Ahoi is the sportiest line in the catalog, which admittedly isn’t saying much. But it does have crown guards and 200m of water resistance, considered by Nomos as “suitable for diving.” To that end, the winding stem features a red ring that is only visible when the crown is unscrewed, a reminder that full water resistance is only guaranteed when the crown is entirely secure. The case is pleasantly thin at 9.9mm thanks to a new movement – more on that in a moment. And the lug-to-lug distance has been reduced to 48.7mm, compared to 51mm on the standard Ahoi. Other nice details include a contrasting orange second hand, double-sided anti-reflective coating on the domed crystal, and a waterproof textile strap suitable for diving. Inside, the new Ahoi is powered by the DUW 6101 for the first time. Developed by Nomos and introduced in 2018 with the Neomatik line, this caliber is both beauty and brains. The rotor and bridges get some love with ribbing polish and perlage, and the movement utilizes Nomos’ re-imagine...

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline” SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline” Jul 31, 2023

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline”

Released in March at Watches & Wonders, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” is perhaps the most notable travel watch in Tudor’s line up thanks to a silvery-white dial that may or may not have been inspired by the Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. A variant of the original model in black, the Black Bay GMT with a white dial is typical Tudor – namely excellent quality and outstanding value – but it might be a subtle reference to the mythical, and sometimes controversial, GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Though there’s no official reference to the potential historical inspiration, the GMT “Opaline” is an in-joke that a historically-minded enthusiast will appreciate. Initial thoughts To the casual observer, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” might seem like yet another iteration of Tudor’s bestselling dive watch. In fact, the GMT might seem less appealing when set against the equally recent Black Bay 54 with its properly-vintage proportions. But the GMT “Opaline” deserves a second look. The softly-grained dial with its “polar” palette is clear, clean, and well-executed, and most importantly possesses a different feel compared to the black dial of the original version, especially since black is the de facto dial colour for sports watches and very, very common. Being a dual time zone and silvery-white, the GMT “Opaline” is different despite its traditional design. That said, the GMT “Opaline” is otherwise entirely the same as the model introduced in 2018, which mea...

A Week In Watches, Ep 60: More Collabs, A Nautical Cricket, & Oris Hits One Out of the Park Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Jul 30, 2023

A Week In Watches, Ep 60: More Collabs, A Nautical Cricket, & Oris Hits One Out of the Park

We’re back with a fresh episode of A Week In Watches, covering news from Norqain, Oris, Vulcain, and of course, Linde Werdelin. Additionally, it wouldn’t be a new week without a new collaboration to discuss, and this time it comes courtesy of our friends at Massena LAB and Revolution Magazine in the form of a new, mostly original take on the Uni-Racer Chronograph. Elsewhere, Oris returns to the baseball field to honor the great Milwaukee (okay, and Atlanta) Brave, Hank Aaron with a new colorway of their Big Crown Pointer Date. Another unique configuration of an existing watch released this week is a new Octo Moonphase from Linde Werdelin, who still have a knack for killer case architecture and open dial work. A favorite release this weeks comes from Vulcain, who is once again bringing back the Nautical Cricket, a diving alarm watch with a gnarly inner bezel which includes a full decompression table. This is a historic watch that’s more than just a novelty, it’s got some serious pedigree under its belt that dates back to the early ’60s. Plus, it offers two caseback options, a move we rarely see at this price point. Keep an eye out for more on that one coming soon. Until then, enjoy this week’s episode below. A quick note on a programming change with A Week In Watches: this series will be moving to a bi-monthly format, allowing us more time to bring you a broader selection of curated news, at an even better production quality. A lot of work goes into creating the...

Boxing clever: New report shows the market for fancy watch packaging is set to boom Time+Tide
Jul 29, 2023

Boxing clever: New report shows the market for fancy watch packaging is set to boom

“Full set: box and papers.” If you’re buying a pre-owned watch, the inclusion of these extras that came with the original purchase will usually mean you have to pay more. The box and papers are a sign of the watch’s legitimacy. So when you buy a watch (new or second-hand), you make an effort to … ContinuedThe post Boxing clever: New report shows the market for fancy watch packaging is set to boom appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

It’s a Close Encounter of the Horological Kind with the New UFO Clocks from Ulysse Nardin Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Eagle-eyed watch Jul 25, 2023

It’s a Close Encounter of the Horological Kind with the New UFO Clocks from Ulysse Nardin

Eagle-eyed watch and horology enthusiasts are experiencing a close encounter of the third kind as Ulysse Nardin has dropped three new versions of its avant-garde UFO (Unidentified Floating Object) marine chronometer table clock. Based on the original UFO from 2021, the trio of new colors celebrates Ulysse Nardin’s special relationship with three famed retailers: Swiss-based Bucherer (Ice Blue), Japanese retailer Yoshida (Green), and The Hour Glass (Champagne) in Southeast Asia. The clocks are limited to 30 in each color and are available exclusively through these retailers. Ulysse Nardin commemorated its 175th anniversary back in the spring of 2021 by introducing the first series of UFOs in a batch of 75 examples in dark blue. All sold out quickly. In the fall of that year, at Only Watch, a unique one-off in orange hammered for an eye-watering CHF 380,000. Clearly, there was interest in this unapologetically futuristic take on the marine chronometer – once a crucial tool in navigation at sea and the pinnacle of precision timekeeping. Ulysse Nardin claims this is the fruit of two years of research and development in partnership with L’Épée, whom you may recognize as past collaborators with MB&F;. A closer look at the UFO reveals a product that builds on UN’s history as masters of the marine chronometer while pushing the boundaries of design and engineering. Aesthetically, the UFO is like a JLC Atmos clock that decided to let loose: the half-sphere base houses a tun...