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Le Brassus

Vallée de Joux village that has been Audemars Piguet HQ since 1875; also home to APRP movement development.

How not to talk to total strangers about their watch Time+Tide
Panerai Apr 2, 2021

How not to talk to total strangers about their watch

I was 35,000ft over the Atlantic when I first freaked someone out about his watch. It was in the line for the airplane toilet. A guy was ahead of me, wrestling a full-bladdered toddler. This, I reasoned, is exactly the moment he’ll want a stranger to ask about his Panerai. He’ll tell me the story … ContinuedThe post How not to talk to total strangers about their watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

GoS Imagines Aurora Borealis in Guilloche and Super-Luminova SJX Watches
Schwarz Etienne Mar 29, 2021

GoS Imagines Aurora Borealis in Guilloche and Super-Luminova

A Swedish watchmaker founded by knife maker Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren, Gustafsson & Sjögren (GoS) is best known for incorporating pattern-welded steel, better known as Damascus steel, in its watches. But GoS also frequently works with fellow watchmakers and artisans, à la MB&F; but at a more affordable level. Its latest watch is a five-way collaboration that combines traditional guilloche, generous Super-Luminova, and hand-made glass: the Norrsken, Swedish for northern lights, the seasonal light display seen over the North Pole. Initial thoughts The Norrsken is a departure from mainstream watchmaking, but even stands out against the increasingly crowded independent watchmaking scene. It is made up of familiar elements, like the guilloche dial and Black Badger “lume”, but of high quality and combined in an interesting, novel manner. Produced by a well-known guilloche specialist, the dial is artisanal but excellent. Similarly, the case also looks to be just as well-executed, with the bezel available in either polished or Damascus steel; though the latter makes the most sense given GoS’ speciality. And the movement comes from Schwarz Etienne (a brand that has enjoyed greater success with its movements in watches other than its own), but equipped with a micro-rotor crafted from Damascus steel. The green Damascus steel dial, seen here in a prototype And the Norrsken lives up to its name, managing to evoke northern lights, or aurora borealis, in...

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer o2T gets a dark blue makeover to allow its flying tourbillon to shine Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer o2T gets Mar 25, 2021

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer o2T gets a dark blue makeover to allow its flying tourbillon to shine

I’ll bet many people weren’t even aware of the name o2T, and that’s a big credit to TAG Heuer. It takes guts to downplay the micro-wonders of the mythical tourbillon, swirling slowly inside its cage at 6 o’clock. While we daily see references with less dazzle but 10 words to their model designation, here it’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer o2T gets a dark blue makeover to allow its flying tourbillon to shine appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Introduces the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Mar 24, 2021

Omega Introduces the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold

Bronze dive watches are already a well established fad, and a little passé. Omega has sidestepped that by going one step further, putting its own twist on the idea with an interesting proprietary alloy that combines copper and gold. This unprecedented material makes its debut in the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold, the flagship model in its new line of retro dive watches. Notably, because Bronze Gold is an alloy with low gold content – its proportion of the precious metal is less than 40% in contrast to 75% in ordinary 18k gold – the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is more affordable than the typical gold dive watch. Initial thoughts The new Seamaster 300 is the perfect watch to introduce the new alloy, since bronze is very much a material for maritime adventures, while its gold content creates a warm, slightly aged look befitting for the vintage-inspired design. The result is a watch that’s seemingly aged yet resplendent. And it’s worth pointing out the faux-vintage Super-Luminova on the dial and hands work better with the warm colours of the Seamaster Bronze Gold than on the steel version that’s evidently a modern watch in colours and style. Even though Bronze Gold is one of the most intriguing new alloys of late, Omega already has numerous gold alloys to its name – from white Canopus gold to red Sedna Gold – which makes the new alloy seem less exciting than it deserves. Still, its retail price of a bit over US$11,000 makes the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold one of the mos...

Why servicing a vintage Rolex will only get harder and more expensive Time+Tide
Rolex will only get harder Mar 17, 2021

Why servicing a vintage Rolex will only get harder and more expensive

You’ll have heard this about vintage watches before: tread carefully when you have these pieces serviced and who you allow to work on them. With Rolex, in particular, you’ll be aware of the dangers of having the factory service their vintage watches and the horror stories of these coveted watches losing the elements that make … ContinuedThe post Why servicing a vintage Rolex will only get harder and more expensive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Bethune Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Double-Faced Split Personality With Floating Lugs (Video) Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso! Watching Mar 15, 2021

De Bethune Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Double-Faced Split Personality With Floating Lugs (Video)

De Bethune highlights that there is more than one way to rotate a watch, using its floating lug system to perfection in the new DB Kind of Two Tourbillon. Look out, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso! Watching the blue tourbillon escapement beating away in high-def macro video is simply captivating: you'll want to watch it over and over and over.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Rolex that changed its red and blue stripes, catch-ups on Clubhouse and IRL and the collectability of G-Shock Time+Tide
Rolex Mar 11, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Rolex that changed its red and blue stripes, catch-ups on Clubhouse and IRL and the collectability of G-Shock

Let me start by saying that I’ve had quite the week. Summer doesn’t seem to want to end, the T+T Team are working really hard on a few very exciting projects that we’ll be able to announce soon, but that wasn’t all. We were lucky enough to attend the first watch event in real life … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Rolex that changed its red and blue stripes, catch-ups on Clubhouse and IRL and the collectability of G-Shock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: 3 reasons why watches are so horribly expensive Time+Tide
Mar 8, 2021

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: 3 reasons why watches are so horribly expensive

When one of your non-watch friends asks how much your watch cost, they’ll probably be shocked or straight up appalled that anyone could spend thousands, never mind tens of thousands of dollars on something that tells the time “just like your phone”. So how do you explain the reason why watches are so horribly expensive? … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: 3 reasons why watches are so horribly expensive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Introduces All-New Automatic Caliber 0200 SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces All-New Automatic Caliber Mar 4, 2021

Citizen Introduces All-New Automatic Caliber 0200

Having introduced the ultra-advanced quartz Caliber 0100 in 2019, Citizen is now turning to mechanical movements. Making its debut in the flagship The Citizen collection, the Caliber 0200 is a newly-developed automatic with all the technical features expected of a high-end modern movement, along with more elaborate decoration thanks to the input of Swiss movement specialist La Joux-Perret. Citizen’s first new mechanical since 2010, the Caliber 0200 elevates its mechanical watchmaking to a new level in both construction and aesthetics. Similarly, the first wristwatch equipped with the Caliber 0200 boasts a more sophisticated degree of finishing on its complex case and integrated bracelet. The Caliber 0200 Initial thoughts Going by the images, the Calibre 0200-equipped The Citizen is an impressive watch. And going by Citizen’s other high-end watches, this will almost surely look as good in real life as it does in photos. Measuring an elegant 40 mm by 10.9 mm, the case has complex surfaces and impeccable finishing, and also a distinctive look. Though some of the design elements do bring to mind other watches, it is original enough, which is a feat given the proliferation of integrated-bracelet designs today. But the highlight is the movement, which is perhaps best described as a high-end workhorse calibre. The construction and specs tick all the right boxes, and so does the finishing, which is superior to many watches – Swiss and Japanese – in the same price range. Th...

In-Depth: Mid-Century Movado Chronographs SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Mar 1, 2021

In-Depth: Mid-Century Movado Chronographs

Every time you read a story about the ocean, there’s a good chance you’ll see that it is “95% unexplored”, or “we know more about the surface of the moon than of the seafloor”. As most tropes go, they are as annoying as they are true, and in this case they’re also an apt metaphor for vintage watch knowledge. While the details of vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex have been mapped down to their going trains, numerous brands remain relatively uncharted – a Marianas Trench’s of knowledge awaiting exploration. Midcentury Movado chronographs lie squarely at those depths; let’s dive in. As we arrive at the door of our submersible, we must first acknowledge those who have assembled taxonomies of this scantly-explored abyss: the late Fritz van Osterhausen, author of The Movado History, and the excellent M95 chronograph reference the e-newsletter Rescapement published a few years ago. Using their ballast - no, I haven’t run out of nautical metaphors yet - we hope to fathom yet further. Today, we’ll peer into with what many consider the pinnacle of Movado collecting, its exceptionally-cased midcentury chronographs. History Until the 21st century, Swiss watch production was predominantly a cottage industry. Specialists manufactured the case, dial, or ebauche (movement blank), and peddled their wares to as many brands as possible. While final products were modified to brand specifications, family traits are easily discernible across marques that shared sup...

VIDEO: The H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph refuses to play by the rules Time+Tide
H. Moser Feb 26, 2021

VIDEO: The H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph refuses to play by the rules

Just when we had finally sussed out the design language of Moser they have another ace up their sleeve and it seems to be a very big sleeve indeed. The H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph still feels new, even after being out for almost a year and, with its timeless vibe, I suspect that’ll … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph refuses to play by the rules appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watchspotting at the Australian Open watches including Bulgari, Audemars Piguet and, of course, a ton of Rolex Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Feb 19, 2021

Watchspotting at the Australian Open watches including Bulgari, Audemars Piguet and, of course, a ton of Rolex

Editor’s note: Yesterday we took at look at all of the Australian Open tennis players who actually wore their watches while competing. Today we’ll be shining a spotlight on the rest of the watches on display and some of them are real cross-court winners. The final days of the 2021 Australian Open are underway in … ContinuedThe post Watchspotting at the Australian Open watches including Bulgari, Audemars Piguet and, of course, a ton of Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

George Bamford launches GB Talks podcast to discuss the sleepers of the vintage watch world Time+Tide
Feb 15, 2021

George Bamford launches GB Talks podcast to discuss the sleepers of the vintage watch world

George Bamford is about as passionate and enthusiastic a member of the watch community as you’ll ever find. His boisterous energy is infectious whether he’s discussing his Ferrari 275 GTB or the Bamford Watch Department x Time+Tide GMT1. And it’s this energy that is set to be the driving force behind his new podcast GB … ContinuedThe post George Bamford launches GB Talks podcast to discuss the sleepers of the vintage watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2021 Oris Big Crown Pointer Date 80th Anniversary Review WatchAdvice
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Feb 4, 2021

2021 Oris Big Crown Pointer Date 80th Anniversary Review

Pros: Get to enjoy the beautiful patina Great value for moneywears great on smaller wrists Cons: Some may not find this to be a daily wearing watchSome may find the power reserve to be too low in today’s standardAt times reading the date can be tricky (through the domed sapphire ) Over All Rating: 8.1 Value for money – 8.5/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8.0/10Build Quality – 8/10 Oris was founded in 1904 and it produced its first pilots watch in 1917. However, this was a pocket watch with an image of a plane that Louis Bleriot flew across the English Channel in 1908 engraved on the case. Few years later in 1938 The BIG CROWN POINTER DATE was born and became a staple in their pilots watch collection. Fast forward 8 decades and Oris introduced a very elegant, vintage, and timeless classic: Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date 80th Anniversary Edition. The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date was introduced to serve a purpose and to a target audience. A watch with oversized crown that pilots could easily operate wearing gloves, large Arabic numerals to read time with a glance and finally a pointer tip which would indicate date. Over the years the watch has undergone refinement in mechanics and materials, but its core design language has remained unchanged. In 2018 the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date was encased in solid Bronze. An alloy which changes over time making this watch unique no matter when you wear it on your wrist.  Case: The 80th anniversary edition comes in a solid b...

AUCTION NEWS: This Vacheron Constantin sold for just 40 per cent of its $3 million prediction. Is 2021 off to a catastrophically slow start? Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin sold Jan 27, 2021

AUCTION NEWS: This Vacheron Constantin sold for just 40 per cent of its $3 million prediction. Is 2021 off to a catastrophically slow start?

I did choose to be very optimistic in my story last week about the astounding Vacheron Constantin Tour de L’Ile reaching a cool record $3 million to kick off a healthy 2021. The estimate was set at Antiquorum’s Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces in Monaco to a spread of $1.8 – $3 million. But the watch … ContinuedThe post AUCTION NEWS: This Vacheron Constantin sold for just 40 per cent of its $3 million prediction. Is 2021 off to a catastrophically slow start? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Magic Gold weaves a golden web to trap you in a world of micro-mechanical wonder Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Magic Jan 25, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Magic Gold weaves a golden web to trap you in a world of micro-mechanical wonder

Blown away by the first picture in the press release. Where to start? I’ll be honest with you, while we want to share the news from the LVMH Watch Week as soon as it comes out, it does create the luxury of frustration, very apparent in this story on the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Magic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Magic Gold weaves a golden web to trap you in a world of micro-mechanical wonder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hautlence Debuts the Spherical, 3D Jump Hour Once Again SJX Watches
Hautlence Debuts Jan 13, 2021

Hautlence Debuts the Spherical, 3D Jump Hour Once Again

Founded almost two decades ago, making one of the pioneers in contemporary watchmaking, Hautlence has long specialised in unusual, or even avant-garde, time display, like the chain-link hours in the Vortex. Boasting a three-dimensional spherical indicator, the new HL Sphere 02 is even more impressive, reimagining the familiar jumping hours complication as few have managed to do. A follow up to the original HL Sphere introduced last year, the HL Sphere 02 is essentially the same watch dressed more formally, replacing the muted blue-and-grey palette of the original version with a solid pink-gold dial. An animation of the transition from 10 to 11 o’clock Initial thoughts Though the HL Sphere 02 isn’t new, its spherical jumping hours remains novel and interesting. While conventional jumping hours operate on a single plane, relying on a flat disc that moves once an hour, the watch interprets the complication in a throughly different manner that is unique in watchmaking. In fact, the spherical jump hour is more impressive than Hautlence gets credit for. It is arguably on par with inventions like Urwerk’s satellite-cube time display, but because Hautlence isn’t as prominent as its peers – perhaps a consequence of changing management over the years – the brand’s complications don’t get as much recognition as they otherwise should. The HL Sphere 02 is almost identical to the original – the white gold, TV-shaped case and movement are the same – with the only ...

Wild Turkey Master’s Keep: A Great Bourbon For Drinking Now - Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 10, 2021

Wild Turkey Master’s Keep: A Great Bourbon For Drinking Now - Reprise

As well as being a superb bourbon, one of the great advantages of the Master's Keep premium releases from Wild Turkey is that they are not prohibitively priced (these bourbons are in the vicinity of $150 per bottle), nor are they so limited that you’ll only ever read about them and never see a bottle. These are great bourbons intended for drinking, and Ken Gargett gives us the lowdown.

His & hers watches are the anniversary gift that lets you justify adding a new piece to your collection Time+Tide
Jan 9, 2021

His & hers watches are the anniversary gift that lets you justify adding a new piece to your collection

When it comes to a significant anniversary, a diamond ring is always a welcome gift that’ll make her positively swoon with gratitude for a day or two. But why not invest in a matching set of watches? “His and hers” might conjure up slightly naff images, but the reality can actually prove to be a … ContinuedThe post His & hers watches are the anniversary gift that lets you justify adding a new piece to your collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Street Fighter x Seiko Ryu edition hits you like a judo chop to the throat (in a good way) Time+Tide
Seiko Ryu edition hits you Dec 29, 2020

VIDEO: The Street Fighter x Seiko Ryu edition hits you like a judo chop to the throat (in a good way)

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’ll know we’re big fans of the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V Editions. We first took a look at the full collection, before zeroing in on the Blanka green machine and the Ken red rocket models, and now we’re going to take a closer look at … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Street Fighter x Seiko Ryu edition hits you like a judo chop to the throat (in a good way) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Material gains: what’s the deal with steel and what type is the best for watchmaking? Time+Tide
Dec 29, 2020

Material gains: what’s the deal with steel and what type is the best for watchmaking?

Whether it’s a bespoke luxury piece, a tough tool watch or even a daily diver, stainless steel is still watchmaking’s primary material of choice. Yet while 316L grade steel is increasingly used by a number of brands, there are, in fact, better, smoother and harder alternatives for watchmaking. Is there such a thing a precious … ContinuedThe post Material gains: what’s the deal with steel and what type is the best for watchmaking? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Get your hands on a Rolex Hulk (right now) and don’t be left green with envy Time+Tide
Rolex Hulk right now Dec 28, 2020

Get your hands on a Rolex Hulk (right now) and don’t be left green with envy

Sometimes you get a horological itch that you just have to scratch. My latest is focused on the verdant charm of a green Rolex. But I’ll need one of Luke’s “The Enabler” excuses first. I’m currently running all manner of different scenarios through my mind, a veritable roulette wheel of justifications, trying to find the … ContinuedThe post Get your hands on a Rolex Hulk (right now) and don’t be left green with envy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces Dec 19, 2020

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph

Hot on the heels of the RM 72-01 powered by the brand’s first in-house chronograph movement, Richard Mille has just introduced the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph, continuing its historical focus on ultra high-end chronographs, which began with RM 004 of 2003. Not only is the RM 65-01 the first self-winding split-seconds chronograph from Richard Mille, it’ll also be the brand’s first serially produced watch with the complication, joining watches like the RM 11 as a mainstay of the line up. Initial thoughts Highly-complex chronographs are embedded in Richard Mille’s DNA – the company’s first chronograph was RM 004, which was a hand-wind, split-seconds powered by a Renaud & Papi movement. And in the space of a year, Richard Mille has unveiled two all-new chronographs, starting with the RM 72-01, and now the RM 65-01. RM 65-01 in Carbon NTPT The RM 65-01 is typically Richard Mille in style and materials, exuding sportiness with its techno-industrial movement finish, skeletonised dial, and multicoloured indicators. On any other watch, the colours would look like the designers are trying too hard, but in the RM 65-01, they just work. The movement, however, is notable for being a technically accomplished calibre produced by Vaucher, the respect movement specialist that’s a sister company of Parmigiani. Historically Vaucher has only supplied movements for the brand’s entry-level timepieces, while the more complicated calibres were made by Renaud ...

LIST: Buffy’s 3 favourite watches of 2020 Time+Tide
Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer Dec 18, 2020

LIST: Buffy’s 3 favourite watches of 2020

Editor’s note: Despite the challenges that we have all faced in 2020, the watch manufacturers of the world have still managed to turn out a very decent crop of new releases this year. For Buffy, though, there were three standout pieces that we’ll take a closer look at here.  Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer There … ContinuedThe post LIST: Buffy’s 3 favourite watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.