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Field Watch

The military-utility tool watch genre. WWI trench → WWII Dirty Dozen → MIL-W-46374 → Hamilton Khaki and Marathon GPM.

Breaking News: F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance Achieves $13.9 Million – Becomes Fifth Most Expensive Wristwatch Ever Sold Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Jun 14, 2026

Breaking News: F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance Achieves $13.9 Million – Becomes Fifth Most Expensive Wristwatch Ever Sold

It felt inevitable. Just over six months after an F.P. Journe narrowly missed joining a certain historic list of wristwatches dominated by Patek Philippe and Rolex with the $10.75 million sale of Francis Ford Coppola's personal FFC at Phillips New York (a record for the brand), one finally reached that rarified air. François-Paul Journe invented it. He made it. The market made it historic. The F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance no. 007 is now the fifth-most expensive wristwatch ever sold and the third-most expensive watch sold not for charity. Arguably Journe's most important and emblematic model, a confluence of details made this example—which crossed the auction block on Saturday, June 13—the one to own, at least according to bidders. To the tune of almost $14 million, no less. In some ways, it seems the perfect cap to a wild shift in the market where, in less than a year, F.P. Journe has become more closely watched than other previously preferred blue-chip brands and references. And yet, the market is so hot that there were a number of remarkable results from the New York, Geneva, and Hong Kong auctions.  Not for nothing, but a Patek Philippe 5004 is now a $5 million watch, not only blowing out the previous non-charity record ($1.5 million for Michael Ovitz's platinum example, which was sold last fall), but eclipsing the 5004T for OnlyWatch (which sold for $4 million, give or take, back in 2013). And the fresh-to-market pink gold, satin-cased Pate...

Hands-on – The Revival of a Charming Chimer with the Angelus Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater Monochrome
Angelus Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater Jun 13, 2026

Hands-on – The Revival of a Charming Chimer with the Angelus Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater

Unveiled by Angelus at Watches & Wonders 2026, the Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater is a re-edition of the brand’s pioneering mid-century automatic, waterproof quarter repeater wristwatch, which was already a rarity in its day. Engaging sight, sound and touch, we’re going hands-on with the more luxurious, 15-piece limited edition of this charming chiming revival piece […]

Hands-On: The Norqain Wild One Skeleton X-Lite & Wild One Skeleton Chrono Fratello
Norqain Wild One Skeleton X-Lite Jun 13, 2026

Hands-On: The Norqain Wild One Skeleton X-Lite & Wild One Skeleton Chrono

Since their official launch in the UK in 2025, Norqain has been on a tear. The brand is growing here and abroad, which says something in the current climate. Sure, the watches are a luxurious expenditure, but they’re fun, wearable, and capable. Today, I’ll briefly share some hands-on thoughts on two recently released Wild One […] Visit Hands-On: The Norqain Wild One Skeleton X-Lite & Wild One Skeleton Chrono to read the full article.

Review: The Trafford Crossroads S 36 & 40 Worn & Wound
Ming new watches from Jun 11, 2026

Review: The Trafford Crossroads S 36 & 40

It will be impossible to talk about the new Trafford Crossroads S without discussing the size of the case in great detail, which I fear might be disservice to the watch as a whole, because there are a lot of very nice things about the Crossroads, and it’s one of the most charming new watches from a microbrand that I’ve seen in some time. But the case size is critical, because Trafford has walked a very interesting line with this release, debuting the Crossroads S in two sizes and marketing each based on how they feel the case wears, not its actual measured size. It’s getting by on vibes, as the kids sometimes say. It also capitalizes smartly on the growing trend we’ve seen for smaller, more discreet watches in a really interesting way.  The Crossroads S is actually two watches: the Crossroads S 36 and the Crossroads S 40. Neither of these watches are named for their actual measurements, though. Instead, Trafford has used these pretty commonly understood sizing conventions to name the watches based on how, in their estimation, they actually wear. The Crossroads S 40 measures 35mm x 36mm, while the Crossroads S 36 comes in at 31mm by 32mm (both are 9mm thick). Looking at the watches side by side, and compared to other watches in circular cases that are true 40mm and 36mm cases is an interesting lesson in how we perceive size depending on shape. It also, in my opinion, illustrates how one of these watches is absolutely the “correct” size while another is, well, n...

Auctions: Previewing New York's Spring Auction Season At Phillips, Sotheby's, And Christie's Hodinkee
Jun 8, 2026

Auctions: Previewing New York's Spring Auction Season At Phillips, Sotheby's, And Christie's

Auction season can be exhausting. I can barely believe that we do this twice a year. We often only have the time and energy to cover the main show in Geneva, with a few thousand lots offered between four auction houses just last month. But after Geneva and Hong Kong (which comes before Geneva for some houses and after for others), the circus comes to New York, and this year we're going to take a gander at the watches on offer in the city. Most auction houses don't drop their catalogs until after Geneva is over. That prevents people from holding their bids because they're doing the "distracted boyfriend meme" and looking at future watches. That keeps them from going all-in in Geneva, which isn't what the auction houses want. They want your bids now and later. Well, later is here, and I hope you have some cash left over. Weirdly, I'm getting a sense of déjà vu; there are a few familiar-looking watches. So let's go ahead and take a look. Phillips It was a banner weekend for Phillips in Hong Kong with a pretty fantastic $51.5 million sale, backed by the $10.2 million sale of the first series rose gold Patek 2499, which became the most expensive wristwatch ever sold in Asia. That is one of three mega Pateks Phillips was offering this season, which is rounded out by an incredibly clean and honest 1518. I know the record result means that that should be the watch to pick, all things being equal, but I still like a watch that looks basically untouched. Photo courtesy Phillips. P...

Independent Highlights at Marteau & Co.’s Summer Sale SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2524 Jun 5, 2026

Independent Highlights at Marteau & Co.’s Summer Sale

Online-only auctioneer Marteau & Co returns for its third sale, The Heat Wave. which opens at noon Geneva time on June 10, continuing with its focus on independent watchmaking. Marteau & Co was founded just last year by a duo including industry veteran Arthur Touchot, who spent several years as a journalist followed by a stint at a prominent auction house. The Swiss auctioneer sets itself apart with its intriguing “Maker’s Fee” concept, which rewards the maker of the timepiece with 3% of the hammer price for each watch sold, allowing a brand to benefit from the appreciation of its products. While artists’ resale rights, or droit de suite, is far from a new concept, and has been codified into law in the European Union and United Kingdom, Marteau & Co’s approach is the first instance of its application in watchmaking. Lot 6 – Voutilainen Decimal Repeater Regulator piece unique Kari Voutilainen needs no introduction, but this watch does as it is, like all Voutilainen minute repeaters, a unique piece. This example left the Voutilainen workshop in 2024, cased in 38 mm of unusual 4N gold, which sits between red and yellow gold, while the hands and dial, as you’d expect from any Voutilainen watch – excellent, but with a chiming twist. During a survey of vintage repeating wristwatches you’ll realize that many only have two hands. If you compared the movement of, say, a Patek Philippe ref. 2524 with a seconds hand to one without, the reason becomes clear. The two ...

Introducing: MING And J.N. Shapiro Team Up For The 37.06 Lightning Hodinkee
Massena Lab Jun 5, 2026

Introducing: MING And J.N. Shapiro Team Up For The 37.06 Lightning

What We Know When Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro teamed up in 2024 to launch the Alternative Horological Alliance, they did so with a product: a "universal" tantalum bracelet. But I've been waiting to see if the AHA (now including Fears and Massena LAB) would team up in other ways. Today, Ming and J.N. Shapiro announce the 37.06 "Lightning," which blends the dial work Shapiro's team is known for with Ming's signature design language into something that's both new yet familiar. It's not a trick of the light. The dial is really that striking (no pun intended, I promise). Each dial is made from grade-2 titanium and hand-guillochéd in Los Angeles through engine-turning on a traditional rose-engine lathe to create a pattern called "Lightning guilloché." It's a pattern J.N. Shapiro hasn't used on a wristwatch before. The dials are then shipped to Kuala Lumpur, where Ming Thein himself hand-colors each dial by heat-staining it with a butane torch.  It's not as easy as just sticking a torch on a dial. A time too long or too short by even a few seconds, and the color might be uneven. Even if you do it right, the final result might still fail because the guilloché process exposes variations in titanium's crystalline structure. Only one in three dials works out. The dial is still very Ming, as is the rest of the watch, with the flared lugs and engraved crystal that's filled with HyCeram luminous indices. The hands have Super-LumiNova X1. The case is 38mm in diameter, 10.9mm in t...

Introducing – The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph XV Limited Edition Monochrome
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph XV Limited Jun 4, 2026

Introducing – The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph XV Limited Edition

Quite a radical departure from the usual classic German style of the Pano and Senator collection by Glashütte Original, the Seventies range, now exclusively available as a chronograph, is characterised by its TV-shaped case and integrated bracelet, but also by a great audacity in colours – which reflects the era after which the watch is […]

Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Jun 4, 2026

Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty

The Girard-Perregaux (GP) Laureato Fifty collection adds four new references in crowd-pleasing configurations. The original 39 mm size is joined by a compact 36 mm option, available with our without diamonds, while a range of expensively made dials are on offer from solid 18k rose gold to deep blue flinqué enamel. The first four permanent members of the Laureato Fifty collection are powered by the brand’s latest automatic calibre, the GP4800, which illustrates GP’s capabilities as a manufacture. Initial thoughts Last year’s launch of the Laureato Fifty felt promising, but it was clearly just an opening act. GP is a brand intent on resurgence, and the Laureato Fifty represents an important part of the brand’s future. In this context, the four new Laureato Fifty references — in 2 sizes and 3 popular colourways — feel somewhat inevitable, though the high level of execution is anything but. Under the leadership of Marc Michel-Amadry GP seems to be building momentum in the right way — by emphasising what makes the brand unique. Specifically, its design icons like the Laureato and Three Gold Bridges, and its capabilities as a manufacture. In a few short months, the brand has delivered in each of these categories. The Laureato was one of the original luxury sports watches with an integrated bracelet, and helped establish the now-familiar format. Today, however, the field is crowded, a fact that invites comparison. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak comes to mind first,...

Dispatch: A Visit to Philippe Dufour's Workshop, Twelve Years Since Our Last Hodinkee
Jun 3, 2026

Dispatch: A Visit to Philippe Dufour's Workshop, Twelve Years Since Our Last

It's been some time since we visited Philippe Dufour's workshop—at least officially. I'm not sure if my colleagues have stopped in before, which wouldn't surprise me. Once you know Dufour, stopping by his workshop in Le Solliat becomes much more informal. But until two weeks ago, I actually hadn't stepped foot inside the old building that was once his kids' schoolhouse and that has become his workshop.  Back in 2013, Ben stopped by during the "Road to Basel" series, but a lot has changed since then. Or has it? Despite being a watchmaker for over 59 years now, all Philippe Dufour seems to want to do is make watches. And where better to do it than the famed "Valley of Complications"?  When we last left him, Ben noted that he had just delivered the last of his Simplicities, after about 200 watches. "He will never make another," said Ben, and that Dufour was working on a more complicated follow-up. Well, since then, he certainly has delivered more Simplicities, including one with an aventurine dial that was auctioned for charity, and there are still more watches on the bench. And it's not just him at the workshop; his daughter Danièla is also working away as well. Tools on the display cases inside Philippe Dufour's workshop and a selection of pocket watches  In 2022, I traveled to Switzerland and the Vallée de Joux for the first time to research and photograph a story on the watchmaker Charles-Henri Meylan. I immediately fell in love with the place. The three-dimensiona...

Tudor Unveils The Colorful Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee” Fratello
Tudor Unveils Jun 3, 2026

Tudor Unveils The Colorful Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”

Ask Tudor fans what they would like to see from the brand, and one of the top answers would be a smaller Black Bay Chrono. Well, that wish has been granted with the new Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee.” The watch introduces a new, smaller 39mm case that is also a good bit slimmer. […] Visit Tudor Unveils The Colorful Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee” to read the full article.

What Are 10 Of The Best Dive Watches Under €2,000? Fratello
May 30, 2026

What Are 10 Of The Best Dive Watches Under €2,000?

The market for dive watches below €2,000 has never been stronger. A decade ago, this price category was filled mostly with entry-level Swiss divers and oversized tool watches with questionable finishing. In 2026, however, the segment has evolved into the enthusiast sweet spot. This is where you’ll find some of the most interesting designs, the […] Visit What Are 10 Of The Best Dive Watches Under €2,000? to read the full article.

H. Moser Introduces the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date, with a Brand New Manually Wound Movement Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces May 29, 2026

H. Moser Introduces the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date, with a Brand New Manually Wound Movement

Moser’s new Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date occupies a strange niche which the brand has now explored twice in the span of just a few months: a watch with a movement that has been converted from an automatic version to manually wound for additional functionality and convenience. I’d be surprised if this was an operating principle for Moser for either this release or the Streamliner Pump which debuted at Watches & Wonders, and runs on the HMC 103, which is a manually wound version of their workhorse HMC 500. But it does speak to the brand’s ingenuity when it comes to movement making, and is a reminder that while Moser’s aesthetics and distinct design language often get the most ink, there’s real watchmaking happening as well.  Moser’s Endeavour platform gets the debut of an entirely new movement from Moser, the HMC 730. Based on the architecture of the HMC 902, their automatic chronograph movement made with AGENHOR, the new caliber dispenses with an automatic winding system in favor of dual time and date complications. It does all of this without traditional subdials, a real benefit of the proprietary AGENHOR architecture, which promises a more intuitive readout of elapsed time on a chronograph. On this watch, a red central hand tracks chronograph seconds, a rhodium plated hand tracks elapsed minutes, and the second time zone is found within an interior gray fume dial.  The movement has a number of function first technical advances. The date, for ...

Bring a Loupe: A Polerouter Super, A Movado Bill Time, A Vintage Rolex Sub, And A Louis Vuitton Monterey II Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Étrier sold as well May 29, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Polerouter Super, A Movado Bill Time, A Vintage Rolex Sub, And A Louis Vuitton Monterey II

Congrats on conquering another week, even if this one felt particularly expensive with the loss of Sonny Rollins. I know jazz is probably supremely uncool, but man oh man, if you've not had any experience listening to old Sonny stuff, pull up his classic The Bridge and dive on in (and, yes, his time out, alone, practicing sax on the Williamsburg Bridge, lent the album its title). But you're not here for that sort of cultural enrichment. Let's get to the real stuff. Scorekeeping earlier picks, the Hamilton RAF from two weeks back sold for €1,600, which is a cheering result. Last week's Omega Marine Chronometer went for CHF 2,000, the Marvin "Ocean Chief" sold for $1,000, and Rare Bird's Jaeger-LeCoultre Étrier sold as well. Strays Photo courtesy GALERIE DES VENTES D'ORLEANS. Photo courtesy Craft + Tailored. Photo courtesy Bonhams. Here's a beautiful Zenith Respirator on its original Zenith-signed NSA bracelet for all you square-cased Ballers to start things off. The Dennison ALD Dual Time seemed to scratch an unsuspected itch for a lot of folks, and certainly there are excellent vintage examples of double-dialed watches, but if you happen to find yourself hooked on the idea that more=better regarding dials, boy oh boy is this 18k gold Chopard with its four separate dials for you (with, yes, four separate manual-wind movements, for the fidgeters among us). Girard Perregaux alarms look fantastic for eschewing the typical fourth hand for setting the alarm, and this example ...

The Countdown is on to Get the Next Chapter in Micromilspec x Black Badger’s Time Wars: the Broken Hour Worn & Wound
May 29, 2026

The Countdown is on to Get the Next Chapter in Micromilspec x Black Badger’s Time Wars: the Broken Hour

Collaboration has been at the core of watchmaking since the early days with the etablissage system on which the artform was founded joining together craftspeople of all disciplines to bring a watch to life. In our modern era, collaborations have become more formalized between watchmakers as well as with other brands, artists, athletes, and even the most unexpected partners. Yes, collaborations have taken some wild twists and turns, and the work between Micromilspec’s founders Henrik Rye, Alexander Kadin, and Kim Ellefsen alongside industrial designer and materials specialist James Thompson AKA Black Badger definitely falls in that category. The group first teamed up one year ago for the inaugural installment in the Project Sabotage/Time Wars series, but what makes this collaboration so unique is that it extends beyond the watch itself and to an accompanying alternate anime universe. Here, Micromilspec and Black Badger have taken the concept of storytelling in watchmaking to a whole new level, placing their co-created timepiece in its own world where Black Badger himself takes his animal form. As you might guess, the creative process throughout such a collaboration is anything but ordinary.  I sat down with Black Badger himself just ahead of the announcement for the second edition in the series the Broken Hour, whose one-time, 24-hour sales window is officially open and closes at 12pm ET on May 30. “Henrick and I were just together finalizing the storytelling elements,...

Albishorn Introduces the New Type X-Graph Worn & Wound
Ming new features May 28, 2026

Albishorn Introduces the New Type X-Graph

Swiss brand Albishorn is known for their rather daring mission of recreating vintage watches that never existed; a goal that seems confusing until you see their wide swathe of “imaginary vintage” offerings, each of which draws from iconic timepieces of the past while forging their own new identities. It’s an exercise in parallel history with an added touch of impossibility, and it’s what makes Albishorn watches a category of their own. Carrying on that hypothetical tradition is the new Type X-Graph, which borrows elements from the legendary Type 20 design, while adding features that were simply not possible in the era that Type 20 pieces were being built.  Rather than taking a Type 20 silhouette and cramming new features in, Albishorn has taken to imagining what a predecessor “Type 10” may have looked like instead. Calling it a “missing link” in the history of the Type 20, the Type X-Graph is, of course, a pilot chronograph, with stylings from the late 1940s to pre-date the Type 20’s 1950s introduction. A monopusher military chronograph design, the Type X-Graph measures in at 39mm (a first hint of the modern innovations that remind us that it’s of an imagined history) in case diameter, and 20mm in case thickness. The lug width is a democratic 20mm, with the final lug-to-lug measurement coming in at a wearable 47.7mm, and kept slim by the 12mm thickness. But that’s just the boring stuff; the visuals and functionality of the X-Graph are what make it st...

Introducing – The Very Dutch Christiaan van der Klaauw Ariadne Holland Edition Monochrome
Christiaan van der Klaauw Ariadne Holland Edition May 28, 2026

Introducing – The Very Dutch Christiaan van der Klaauw Ariadne Holland Edition

This weekend, together with our friends at Reijersen Juweliers, a retailer based in the city of Oudewater and specialising in many of our favourite independent brands and rare limited editions, we’ll be hosting the annual “Taste of Time” event. For the third edition of this show, which focuses on independent watchmaking, Reijersen will be teaming […]

Hands-On: A Triple Review Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection May 27, 2026

Hands-On: A Triple Review Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection

We're a few months removed from Watches & Wonders, which gives us some clarity about what was buzz, what was hype, what fell off the wish lists, and what will be a long-term winner. It's looking like Jaeger-LeCoultre had one of the best releases of the fair with the Master Control Chronomètre series. The Master Control line has largely been a dressy take on traditional design cues for a brand people usually think of first for its Reverso. But now, JLC has shown that Master Control can do more. More than just a new case and bracelet, all watches are in-house chronometer-certified 4Hz, 70-hour power reserve movements (COSC does the certification) with a new High Precision Guarantee (HPG) seal, which supplants the former 1000 Hours Control. That new HPG seal means that the brand trials cased watches on four daily-wear specific issues—shocks, positions, altitude, and temperature—over three days, while guaranteeing eight traditional techniques of quality aesthetic finishing. The watches I photographed were brand new and wrapped in plastic, so you have to look past a bit of that to see the quality, but it certainly is there in person. Now with three models in steel and rose gold, with five SKUs (one watch only comes in steel and not gold), measuring 38mm by 8.4mm or 39mm or 9.2mm with 50m of water resistance, the new line brings a lot to the table. Inspired by the brand's Master Mariner Chronomètre line, launched in 1973 as their offering for an integrated bracelet (or adj...

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Flyback May 27, 2026

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date

Since the launch of the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph in 2020, H. Moser & Cie. has been closely associated with one of the most unconventional chronograph architectures in modern watchmaking, developed in collaboration with Agenhor, the Geneva-based complications specialist founded by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. MELB, the company of the Meylan family, which now owns H. Moser & […]

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas May 26, 2026

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre

The most talked-about release from Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) at Watches & Wonders was the refreshed Master Control collection, which debuted on a surprising integrated bracelet. Available with or without perpetual calendar or power reserve complications, the Master Control Chronometre is powered by the latest version of the brand’s long-running cal. 899, which is now certified by both COSC and a new internal standard called the High Performance Guarantee (HPG). Initial thoughts Since the Master Control Chronometre debuted at Watches & Wonders, I have been asked multiple times whether it is a dress watch or a sport watch. Setting aside the issue of the false dichotomy that exists between these categories, the Master Control Chronometre presents itself primarily as a dress watch on a bracelet. While the bracelet’s angular facets evoke those of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, the staid Master Control dial is what defines the look. The simple sunray finish and slim hands — not to mention the lack of any lume — firmly root the Master Control Chronometre in the dress watch category. The soft blue and brown dials are each attractive in their own right, with colour-matched date wheels to avoid any harsh transitions. While the text is arguably superfluous, the ‘Chronometre’ label is more interesting than the typical ‘Automatique’ text that mars most Master Control dials. In terms of the value proposition, it’s a tale of two metals. The stainless steel model isn’t...

Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Tudor Monarch Fratello
Tudor Monarch It’s Sunday morning May 24, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Tudor Monarch

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time to fire up the espresso machine and enjoy another heated watch battle. In this week’s showdown, Mike picked the new Tudor Monarch, while Jorg chose the King Seiko Vanac. The former was Tudor’s big release at Watches and Wonders 2026, and people seem to either love or hate […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Tudor Monarch to read the full article.

Richemont Financial Results Show U.S. Market Resilience As Middle East Sales Hit By War Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre May 22, 2026

Richemont Financial Results Show U.S. Market Resilience As Middle East Sales Hit By War

Richemont's annual financial results and executive commentary showed continued strength in the U.S. market for the Swiss luxury conglomerate's watches and jewelry despite rising consumer prices and economic fallout from the war with Iran. At the same time, sales in the Middle East, particularly the United Arab Emirates have declined since the conflict began in late February. Richemont Chairman Johann Rupert. "It is, at times, truly surreal, but the US economy, the metrics are still looking better than many other economies," Johann Rupert, Richemont's chairman, said on a call with media following the release of the company's annual financial results. Richemont said sales in the Americas rose 17% from the year before and increased by double digits in both watches and jewelry at constant exchange rates during the company's fiscal year ended in March. Richemont, which owns brands including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and A. Lange & Söhne,  said sales in the region increased by 18% in the fourth quarter of its fiscal year compared to the same period a year earlier. "Looking ⁠ahead, uncertainty is likely to persist, not least in relation to developments in the Middle East," Rupert said. While U.S. sales stayed resilient, Richemont brands selling in the United Arab Emirates, particularly in Dubai, suffered declining sales and foot traffic in stores because of the war. While Abu Dhabi has shown signs of recovery, "in Dubai, they are more reserved, and y...

Highlights: Exotic Mechanics at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre À Résonance Brass May 22, 2026

Highlights: Exotic Mechanics at Christie’s Hong Kong

A menagerie of exotic movements features in Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, Important Watches: Featuring “Kronos: Titans of Time”, “The Eternity” and “The Chronicle” Collections, from Double Splits and double movements to torque management and monitoring. Lot 2352 – F.P. Journe Chronomètre À Résonance (Brass Movement) While the current iteration of the Chronomètre À Résonance is far more elaborate, using a differential to split the trains — each of which contains its own constant force device — this early F.P. Journe Chronomètre À Résonance with its 18k pink gold dial was much more ambitious in its time, developed by an upstart restorationist from Paris in a market that was hostile to independent brands compared to today. Resonance timepieces, or more accurately, those using coupled oscillators, can be traced all the way back to Christiaan Huygens, also known for inventing the pendulum clock and many, many contributions to mathematics and the sciences. He described the coupling of his pendulum clocks as an “an odd kind of sympathy” and sought to exploit this dampening effect to make pendulum clocks viable at sea, though this was ultimately unsuccessful. It would take more than a hundred years for Abraham-Louis Breguet — often hailed as the greatest watchmaker — to bring this phenomena to a watch, and then almost two hundred more for arguably the greatest living watchmaker to bring it to the wrist. That was, of course, François-P...

Introducing – The Ressence Type 7 Black and Type 7 Cactus, now with Optional Rubber Straps Monochrome
Ressence Type 7 Black May 21, 2026

Introducing – The Ressence Type 7 Black and Type 7 Cactus, now with Optional Rubber Straps

What is Ressence if not one of the most recognisable identities in independent watchmaking? From the crownless Type 3 (check out the recent Type 3 Marc Newson) to the oil-filled Type 5, Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens has consistently challenged the conventional relationship between display, ergonomics and mechanical watchmaking, leading to the introduction of the Type […]

Introducing – The New Awake Son Mai Guilloché Main, a Dazzling Display of Craftsmanship Monochrome
May 20, 2026

Introducing – The New Awake Son Mai Guilloché Main, a Dazzling Display of Craftsmanship

After moving on from its space-themed watches, Awake – the French indie brand founded by Lilian Thibault in 2019 – celebrated its fifth anniversary with the Son Mai, a permanent collection built around craftsmanship. The collection, which features richly decorated dials created using the ancient Vietnamese lacquering technique of Son Mai, now grows with the […]

Introducing: The New, Smaller Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Lineup Fratello
May 20, 2026

Introducing: The New, Smaller Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Lineup

We’ve been following Awake since well before the 2024 introduction of its Sơn Mài collection. The watches, which feature painstakingly layered Vietnamese lacquer over silver leaf, have vaulted the brand into new territory. Each release is greeted with fervor from fans, and the limited editions frequently sell out quickly. Until now, the watches have featured […] Visit Introducing: The New, Smaller Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Lineup to read the full article.

Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne May 20, 2026

Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este

When we write about watches at Fratello, we typically have three levels of engagement with the product. First, we have our basic introduction articles, for which we base our writing solely on press materials, keeping it brief and factual. Second, we have our hands-on reviews, which allow us to spend time with the watch before […] Visit Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este to read the full article.

Atelier Wen Introduces the Perception V3 in a Trio of Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Introduces May 19, 2026

Atelier Wen Introduces the Perception V3 in a Trio of Dial Colors

In their stated mission to prove that Chinese craftsmanship and artisanship can be worthy of attention usually reserved for European brands, French-Chinese watchmakers Atelier Wen have consistently put out intriguing pieces since their debut in 2017. Next on that growing list is the Perception V3, which builds on the reputation for hand-crafted horology that came with the original Perception line in 2022. The new V3 model takes elements of the V1 and V2 watches, particularly the hand-turned guilloché́ dials by renowned artisan Cheng Yucai, and aims to perfect the mechanics and aesthetics of the lineup. Three models are on offer, with two colorways returning from previous iterationts—the Piāo in ice-blue and Xiá in salmon—while a new variant, Yún in bamboo green, joins the pack. The three colors are both vibrant and easy on the eyes, favoring a more muted hue that pairs well with the pagoda-inspired lines of the 904L stainless steel of the case and bracelet.  Speaking of the case, it measures in at 40mm in diameter and 47mm lug-to-lug, the same dimensions as the V2, with the exception of the now-thinner 10.4mm case height. A knurled crown and full exhibition caseback give the V3 watches 100 meters of water resistance. The case additionally features more directional brushing and mirror polishing than previous iterations, while the Yún model additionally steps up the craftsmanship with micro-frosting in place of the brushed surfaces. The dials, though, are where At...

Hands-On: The Quietly Launched Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco Cocktail” Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or May 13, 2026

Hands-On: The Quietly Launched Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco Cocktail”

Last year's launch of a new Reverso Tribute Monoface "Or Deco" in pink gold (with a gorgeous Milanese mesh bracelet) was probably the most outstanding release from Jaeger-LeCoultre in a while. Its time in the sun was somewhat brief, though, as it was a bit upstaged this year by the new Master Control Chronometre line (for which a Hands-On is forthcoming soon, I promise). Yet, at Watches and Wonders last month, the brand showed it could do more with the "Or Deco" platform, introducing three new Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds "Or Deco Cocktail" watches, including two in a new material. Last year's release is still a stunner. You may have missed these new watches. That's in part because the brand is set to make a more complete announcement in a few weeks, with an immersive pop-up of its "Reverso Stories" series from May 21 to May 31 in the Miami Design District, ahead of the opening of a new boutique there this summer. The idea is to focus on rare pieces, including historic high-jewelry models, and to premiere some new Reverso pieces that play into that concept, including this trio. However, before the watches were shipped to South Beach, we got to see them in New York and get to spill the tea, as the kids say, before their Miami feature debut.  The standouts, at least in terms of novelty, are the two new white-gold versions. The framework remains the same, a 45.6 x 27.4 x 7.56mm case, now in white gold, housing a manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 822 movement....