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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Louis Moinet Presents The Astronef Techno Unique Piece Fratello
Louis Moinet Feb 15, 2024

Louis Moinet Presents The Astronef Techno Unique Piece

Imagine a statement piece that combines high-end mechanics with animated art to create a wrist-mounted spectacle. Louis Moinet’s Astronef Techno does just that, turning heads for all the right reasons. As an extension of the Astronef family, its flying satellite double tourbillon now perches above a color-bursting, microelectronic dial crafted from silicon wafers. The novelty […] Visit Louis Moinet Presents The Astronef Techno Unique Piece to read the full article.

Formex x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Launch Meetup: the Recap! Worn & Wound
Formex x Worn & Wound Feb 14, 2024

Formex x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Launch Meetup: the Recap!

On Wednesday, February 7th, the Formex x Worn & Wound Essence Sector 39 Chronometer was launched into this world. A trio of watches inspired by sci-fi films, they combined sector dials with unique colors and Formex’ exceptional 39mm Essence case. Click here to find out more about that launch. To celebrate this wondrous occasion, we had a meetup at the Worn & Wound offices. Readers, Formex fans, and enthusiasts of all kinds showed up to check out the new watches in person, have some drinks, dine on some charcuterie, share some laughs, and have a great time. Over the last few months, we’ve had a handful of excellent meetups, such as last December in Austin with Carryology and just a few weeks ago in LA with the Collective. If you want to make sure to hear about our upcoming events, be sure to sign up for the Worn & Wound + Slack community, as well as our email list. We hope to see you soon! Oh, and be sure to check out the Formex x Worn & Wound Essence Sector 39 Chronometer at the Windup Watch Shop! Images from this post: The post Formex x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Launch Meetup: the Recap! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands-On: the Tornek-Rayville TR Type 7B “Blakjak” Worn & Wound
Feb 14, 2024

Hands-On: the Tornek-Rayville TR Type 7B “Blakjak”

You’ve got two options. First, you can craft or find a device that can bend space and time so that you can travel back to an alternate universe in which the MIL-W-46374F Type 6 SANDY 660 was widely issued and battle-worn, and readily available. Second, you could just pay closer attention to what Tornek Rayville (under its current MKII Watch umbrella) is doing and snag a version that’s better than the slightly obscure original. Maybe I’ve been reading too much science fiction lately, but as fun as the first option sounds, the second option is probably the right move. Today, we’re looking at Tornek-Rayville’s take on a lesser-known mil-spec watch with a short-lived history of service but plenty of potential. The spec called out for a navigator-style watch with a rotating bezel, quartz movement with antimagnetic properties, water resistance, and a focus on legibility. The TR Type 7B “Blakjak” is a modern take on the post Gulf War-era watch that improves upon the spec while adding some premium touches that us watch collectors will appreciate. Let’s dig in and take a closer look at the latest and greatest from Tornek Rayville.  Case The first thing that struck me when unboxing the watch was the sheer size and weight of it. The 7B ships on a quick-release stainless steel bracelet and includes a nylon and rubber strap. I took it off the bracelet and popped it onto a nylon strap of my own for the initial evaluation. My wrist is pretty average, measuring in at 6.75...

Sinn Unveils their Spring Novelties, Including a Manually Wound 103 Chronograph and New HYDRO U50 Divers Worn & Wound
Sinn Unveils their Spring Novelties Feb 14, 2024

Sinn Unveils their Spring Novelties, Including a Manually Wound 103 Chronograph and New HYDRO U50 Divers

Sinn dropped their Spring novelties this morning, an event that’s always of keen interest to hardcore watch enthusiasts. Sinn is one of our favorite brands for a whole number of reasons, but I’ve always felt that part of their appeal is in their somewhat elusive, “if you know, you know,” nature. Part of that is the fact that they have a single American distributor, and don’t have the flashiest social media presence. In the US, they still seem very German and are truly a brand for connoisseurs. If you see someone wearing a Sinn, you know that they sought it out, and that it might not have been easy to find.  Sinn’s pattern for novelty releases over the last few years seems to be to release a mix of modern tool watches and vintage throwbacks simultaneously. This year’s vintage throwback is a manually wound chronograph, the 103 St Ty Hd. The 103 is their core chronograph model, the simplest and arguably least fussy, and has been made in a huge number of variants over the years. This new version has a steel case and old-fashioned acrylic crystal, and a panda-style dial layout with red accents.  Fans of the 103 will notice immediately that the 12, 6, 9 (with day/date at 3) layout from previous 103 references is missing, a result of the manually wound Sellita SW 510 M powering the new watch. Here we get a classic three register, no date dial in the same familiar 41mm case. This is Sinn’s first manually wound 103 in 20 years, which should make the release of the...

A Master Gunsmith Makes a Watch by Hand SJX Watches
Omega movements I was inspired.” Feb 14, 2024

A Master Gunsmith Makes a Watch by Hand

Based in Pennsylvania, Dewey Vicknair is a respected gunsmith who specialises in restoring rifles and shotguns, and has been doing so for decades, gaining an esteemed reputation in the process. Now in his mid-fifties, he is also a self-taught watchmaker who has been performing watch servicing on the side. Recently Mr Vicknair made the leap from fixing watches to making one. Mr Vicknair explained the genesis of his first watch: “When I saw your stories about Atelier de Chronometrie and what they do with vintage Omega movements, I was inspired.” His inaugural creation is a hand-wound wristwatch of his own making, literally. Although the movement started out as a 1950s Omega cal. 266, Mr Vicknair reworked majority of it and made many parts from scratch, including the going train bridge, as he did for the case, dial, and even the gasket for the crown tube. Because he made most of the parts himself, Mr Vicknair had to fabricate the equipment required to make the parts, including a cutter for the gasket and a screw holder for black polishing. He even did the silver plating of the movement parts himself. It is an unexpected accomplishment for a first-time watchmaker. Initial thoughts Ordinarily I would be sceptical of an unknown watchmaker seeking publicity for a new project with a five-figure price tag. But a few things changed my mind. One was seeing Mr Vicknair’s unusually thorough documentation of his production process, which is almost entirely manual – even the mach...

The Lapinist Launches Sapphire Crystals For Vintage Grand Seiko And King Seiko Models Fratello
Grand Seiko Feb 14, 2024

The Lapinist Launches Sapphire Crystals For Vintage Grand Seiko And King Seiko Models

The Lapinist Watch Studio is a well-known source for case restorations of vintage Grand and King Seiko watches. Aside from his work, Kamil Rybarczyk, the Lapinist himself, also handcrafts display backs for these watches. Today, we’re pleased to report that his newest project is ready, and it should be sweet music to the ears of […] Visit The Lapinist Launches Sapphire Crystals For Vintage Grand Seiko And King Seiko Models to read the full article.

Introducing – The Online-Exclusive, Red Dial Grand Seiko 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH345 Monochrome
Grand Seiko 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH345 Probably Feb 14, 2024

Introducing – The Online-Exclusive, Red Dial Grand Seiko 44GS Hi-Beat SBGH345

Probably the most classic, emblematic and recognizable model made by Grand Seiko, the 44GS is the watch that created the “House Style” according to the so-called Grammar of Design. A timeless design that has influenced the entire production of the brand since its introduction in 1967, the 44GS returned in 2023 in a slightly updated […]

Sinn Extends Its U50 Lineup - Three Regular Oil-Filled Models And A Lume-Dial Limited Edition Fratello
Sinn Extends Feb 14, 2024

Sinn Extends Its U50 Lineup - Three Regular Oil-Filled Models And A Lume-Dial Limited Edition

Last year, we were treated to the brilliant Sinn T50 series. After trying the three watches out, I became an instant fan of the full-titanium, Goldbronze, and two-tone versions, and the last one made a particularly lasting impression. This time around, the German brand is extending its U-series of dive watches with four new models. […] Visit Sinn Extends Its U50 Lineup - Three Regular Oil-Filled Models And A Lume-Dial Limited Edition to read the full article.

Breitling Top Time Watch Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Feb 13, 2024

Breitling Top Time Watch Guide

When you think of James Bond watches, the first models that likely come to mind would probably be from Omega, or Rolex, or - depending on which Bond era you prefer - maybe even Seiko. But one of the most memorable wristwatch scenes in Bond’s cinematic history has a Breitling as its star.   In 1965’s Thunderball, the fourth movie in the popular series starring Ian Fleming’s Agent 007, star Sean Connery spends most of his screen time wearing the same watch that he wore in his previous three outings as Bond: a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538, now known by many collectors as the quintessential “James Bond Rolex.” However, in one key scene, Bond swaps out the Submariner for another watch: a heavily modified Breitling Top Time Ref. 2002, a steel-cased, black-dialed chronograph with two white subdials, applied baton hour markers, and a tachymeter scale surrounding the dial. (The actual watch is pictured above, sans strap, photo via Christie's.) In the movie’s fictional universe, the watch - one of many gadget-packed timepieces assigned to Bond by MI-6 weapons supplier Q throughout the film series - is also equipped with a built-in Geiger counter; Bond uses it to track a cache of stolen nuclear warheads hidden deep underwater by his adversaries from the criminal organization SPECTRE.  The watch was the only Breitling ever worn by any James Bond actor on screen - though, interestingly enough, another Breitling, a Navitimer 806, also appeared briefly in Thunderbal...

Announcing 2024 Windup Watch Fairs – New Venues, New Partners, Same Approachable Setting for Enthusiasts Worn & Wound
Feb 13, 2024

Announcing 2024 Windup Watch Fairs – New Venues, New Partners, Same Approachable Setting for Enthusiasts

Since 2015, the Windup Watch Fair has attracted watch enthusiasts from all walks of life to celebrate their passion and discover new brands and products. Over the last three years, the Windup Watch Fair has become one of the world’s largest consumer-facing watch events, serving as a powerful platform for brands and enthusiasts to come together in a one-of-a-kind setting. In 2024, this evolution continues with three shows, two new venues, and some new partnerships that will further enhance your Windup experience. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco May 3 – 5, 2024 Fort Mason – Gateway Pavillion San Francisco, CA We are thrilled to be returning to San Francisco, in an even more impactful way than ever. The Windup Watch Fair will be one of the first events in the newly reopened Gateway Pavillion on Pier 2 at the Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture. With stunning views of The Golden Gate Bridge, this architectural renovation is an idyllic spot to gather, meet new brands, try new products, and experience enthusiasm together. It comes complete with breakout rooms for live podcasts, special guest speakers, and enthusiast group meetups. You won’t want to miss this iconic San Francisco experience. Windup Watch Fair Chicago July 12-14, 2024 Venue West Chicago, IL We’ll return to our beloved Venue West for our Chicago Fair in the West Loop neighborhood of the Windy City. Once again, we’ll bring brands from around the world to share their wares and tares. With more live podca...

Citizen Unveils New Attesa Hakuto-R References Inspired by the Moon Worn & Wound
Citizen Unveils New Attesa Hakuto-R Feb 13, 2024

Citizen Unveils New Attesa Hakuto-R References Inspired by the Moon

The moon holds a special place in the watch world. It represents a certain sense of adventure, the furthest place man has ever visited outside of our world. The Omega Speedmaster and the Bulova Lunar Pilot may be the only watches that can claim to have actually visited the lunar surface, but countless other watches pay tribute to Earth’s only natural satellite. Citizen represents one of the few brands with lunar watches that also have some real space exploration cred to boot, and its new limited edition Attesa models continue the watchmaker’s partnership with Hakuto-R, a Japanese lunar exploration mission. Citizen has released three new Attesa Hakuto-R models in anticipation of the program’s latest attempt at an unmanned mission, which will occur later this year. When the lunar lander touches down on the moon’s surface, it’ll be doing so with Citizen’s proprietary Super Titanium as one of the components. That same titanium was used to make the cases of the latest Attesa Hakuto-R watches. With colorful dials that evoke the moon’s surface, the new Attesas are immediately eye-catching. Underneath the dials, the pieces are powered by the Citizen 4950 Eco-Drive movement, which gives the watches an impressive battery life thanks to their ability to charge from any natural or artificial light. The new models all also feature Eco-Drive Atomic Timekeeping, which uses radio transmitters to automatically update the time and date if any time is ever gained or lost. One o...

Tudor Predictions 2024 – The Potential Return of the Tudor Oysterdate Big Block Chronograph Monochrome
Tudor Predictions 2024 – Feb 13, 2024

Tudor Predictions 2024 – The Potential Return of the Tudor Oysterdate Big Block Chronograph

A few days ago, the MONOCHROME team delivered our yearly forecast of potential launches for the 2024 Rolex Collection. As always, we try our best to guess what the Crown will be presenting at the watch industry’s largest fair, Watches and Wonders. While trying to imagine and design these potential Rolex models, we also started […]

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Two Omega Speedmasters And A Spacemaster Fratello
Omega Speedmasters Feb 13, 2024

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Two Omega Speedmasters And A Spacemaster

Omega has increased the price of its Speedmaster models quite significantly in the past few years. While one could buy the classic Moonwatch for less than €5,000 not even that long ago, the models with a sapphire front and back crystal are rapidly approaching the €10,000 mark. Granted, it’s not the same watch that it […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Two Omega Speedmasters And A Spacemaster to read the full article.

Zenith Introduces A Titanium Version Of Its Chronomaster Sport - The Lightest One Yet, Especially On The New Fitted Rubber Strap Fratello
Zenith Introduces Feb 13, 2024

Zenith Introduces A Titanium Version Of Its Chronomaster Sport - The Lightest One Yet, Especially On The New Fitted Rubber Strap

The 2024 tennis season is getting started, and Zenith is ready for it with a new titanium version of its Chronomaster Sport. The lightest and most robust version of the Chronomaster Sport is a great match for the highly intense and entertaining Ultimate Tennis Showdown (UTS) championship. Zenith is the main sponsor and official timekeeper […] Visit Zenith Introduces A Titanium Version Of Its Chronomaster Sport - The Lightest One Yet, Especially On The New Fitted Rubber Strap to read the full article.

Rolex Case Study: How Many Watches and How Much Money Does Rolex Make? Quill & Pad
Rolex Case Study How Many Feb 13, 2024

Rolex Case Study: How Many Watches and How Much Money Does Rolex Make?

Rolex is one of the largest, most prominent brands in the world. Unlike many other brands of this size, Rolex is a private company and so it is somewhat opaque when it comes to hard facts about what goes on behind closed doors. But some numbers can be found online, and are used to determine roughly how many watches Rolex makes a year and how much revenue is made per model.

Up Close: Piaget Polo 79 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin 222 Feb 13, 2024

Up Close: Piaget Polo 79

In an unsurprising move given recent fads, Piaget just announced the Polo 79, a yellow gold wristwatch that is essentially a remake of the original, with a slightly larger case that captures the proportions of the original and an impressively slim movement. Initial thoughts The Polo 79 is a predictable launch, coming shortly after the Vacheron Constantin 222 and IWC Ingenieur, which are of course products of Piaget’s sister companies. The new Polo sticks to the same formula, gently updating the aesthetics and installing a new movement, but largely preserving the same design. So the Polo 79 can’t be commended for creativity, but it is executed well. That said, creating a new design in the spirit of the original – namely geometric forms, slim, and sporty – would have certainly made it a more interesting watch. The Polo 79 is slightly larger than the original, but substantially thicker thanks to a self-winding movement. The original, on the other hand, was equipped with the quartz cal. 7P, an incredibly thin movement that fit the trends of the time. The increase in size means the new Polo feels like a bulked up version of the original, which was small and flat in keeping with 1980s style. To accommodate modern tastes, the Polo 79 sacrifices the thinness of the original. That is regrettable but forgivable, since it would not be possible to achieve sufficient water resistance (the Polo 79 is rated to 50 m) as well as automatic winding in the dimensions of the original c...

Hands-on – The Accomplished Vintage Design of the Raymond Weil Millesime Central Seconds Monochrome
Raymond Weil Feb 12, 2024

Hands-on – The Accomplished Vintage Design of the Raymond Weil Millesime Central Seconds

Furniture that looks old but is made today is usually classified as reproduction furniture, models that take design cues from the past but are crafted with contemporary materials. This very same phenomenon also applies to the watch world, especially for brands that don’t have reams of historical catalogues to dip into and select the next […]

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Citizen Promaster Aqualand JP2007-09W – Feb 12, 2024

The Citizen Promaster Aqualand JP2007-09W – Available Now at the Windup Watch Shop

The Citizen Promaster Aqualand JP2007-09W is now available in the Worn & Wound Shop Twenty meters down, I slowed my descent by squirting a puff of air into my buoyancy wing. I hovered just under the overhanging edge of the massive wreck. In contrast to the bright tropical sun streaming down from far above, the maw inside this upturned ship was in deep shadow. To venture inside was to go from day to night, and despite years of exploring shipwrecks, it always gave me pause to penetrate the bowels of one. There’s nothing particularly dangerous about the Hilma Hooker, and indeed it sees hundreds of divers a year, due to its proximity to shore, warm water, and relatively accessible depth. The wreck rests at the bottom of a lush coral reef, hard on the sand at just over 30 meters. Most divers are content to kick along its hull, snap some hero shots near the propeller, and marvel at the huge tarpon and barracuda that spend the daylight hours hovering in the shadows. But somehow, the yawning darkness inside beckons-hollowed-out cargo holds and engine room, long empty compartments that once purportedly held contraband drugs before the ship was seized, abandoned, and then mysteriously sunk. I hesitated, then switched on my powerful dive torch and swam into the darkness. Truth be told, I wasn’t really penetrating the Hilma Hooker to search for sunken treasure. I’d been inside this wreck many times before, in over a dozen trips to Bonaire. I had a different, more quixotic goal...

Watches and What Else: Nathan Bobinchak of Oak & Oscar on Perfecting Home Audio Worn & Wound
Rolex Feb 12, 2024

Watches and What Else: Nathan Bobinchak of Oak & Oscar on Perfecting Home Audio

This month I had the pleasure of speaking with Nathan Bobinchak, Head of Watchmaking for the independent brand Oak & Oscar. Nathan is a former journalist and TV news writer turned watchmaker, with an obsession for finding the best way to experience sound through home audio setups.  Watches  “I had my midlife crisis at 26.” Nathan delivers a dry joke as he recounts his career shift from local TV news, to his decision to go to watchmaking school. Specifically, Nathan attended The Litiz Watch Technicum, a watchmaking school outside Lancaster, PA that was founded in 2001 by Rolex. After graduating from Litiz, Nathan worked for a shop in Connecticut, eventually moving to Chicago at the beginning of 2020 and landing the job at Oak & Oscar.  “I first got into Oak & Oscar with the Jackson. The Jackson is a very cool chronograph with the Eterna 3916 movement in it. It’s a very neat, super complicated, pretty movement. It has a column wheel and flyback chrono…just very cool.” Nathan explained to me that in modern watchmaking you do a lot of the same things, but said he was fortunately certified to work on watches like the Rolex Daytona, as he has a lot of fun servicing chronographs. “I can go on all day about the art of lubricating a chronograph. That is some nerdy stuff. It’s like paint drying.” I was interested, so I asked him to expound. “The only thing that makes watches hard to work on is the user. We knock them, move them around, a movement will run grea...

Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon with In-House Micro-Rotor Movement SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Feb 12, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon with In-House Micro-Rotor Movement

To inaugurate its first-ever in-house automatic movement, Konstantin Chaykin created the Wristmon Zebra Piece Unique, a one-off based on the brand’s signature best-seller. Though it retains the familiar “rolling eye” time display, the Zebra is equipped with the K.33-3, a newly-developed automatic movement with a micro-rotor. Initial thoughts Ever since the launch of the Joker, Konstantin Chaykin has continued to iterate on the Wristmon with its amusing “rolling eye” display. While the Zebra might look like more of the same, it is notable for having an all-new, in-house movement, which replaces the ETA and Vaucher movements that powered past Wristmon models. Mr Chaykin has long hinted that a workhorse in-house movement was in the works, an endeavour that was probably accelerated by the difficulty of sourcing components from outside Russia due to the ongoing war and resulting sanctions. With the launch of the K.33-3, Konstantin Chaykin becomes one of the few independent watchmakers with its own self-winding movement, let alone an automatic calibre with a micro-rotor. The K.33-3 is basic in terms of aesthetics and certain specifications, but it is a feat to be applauded, particularly for Mr Chaykin given the relatively scarcity of specialist suppliers close to him. The Zebra is a one-off conceived to debut the new calibre, but we can expect more watches with the K.33-3 in the future. And if Mr Chaykin retains the same pricing for the new models with an in-house mov...

Seiko Brings Out Presage Inspired by Studio Ghibli SJX Watches
Seiko Brings Out Presage Inspired Feb 12, 2024

Seiko Brings Out Presage Inspired by Studio Ghibli

This year is the 40th anniversary of Hayao Miyazaki’s Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind, a 1984 Japanese anime film portraying the titular heroine’s valiant adventures in a post-apocalyptic world. To mark the occasion, anime studio Studio Ghibli and Seiko created the Presage Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind SPB437, a limited edition with an unusual combination of finishes, namely a blue enamel dial and a brushed steel case. Initial thoughts Seiko has long incorporated Japanese pop culture into its timepieces, drawing inspiration from iconic franchises such as Gundam and the Street Fighter video game. While the new Presage isn’t the first collaboration between the watch brand and Studio Ghibli, the Nausicaä edition is arguably amongst the best due to its classical, almost minimalist design. Even though it is a cartoon-inspired watch, the Nausicaä edition has a restrained aesthetic with stylish details. Particularly notable is the blue enamel dial featuring the emblem of the Princess Nausicaä and elongated indices. The simplicity of the dial design, combined with a steel case featuring an unusual aged finish completes the aesthetic that sets it apart from the typical Presage model. Its clean styling stands out even compared to the earlier Presage Castle in the Sky from 2021. The Nausicaä edition is priced at US$1,600, a modest increase over the previous Studio Ghibli model but still affordable. As is often the case with affordable Seiko limited editions, the m...

Five Analog Quartz Watches That Prove The Snobs Wrong Fratello
Feb 12, 2024

Five Analog Quartz Watches That Prove The Snobs Wrong

As watch lovers, we tend to be drawn to mechanical movements. There is something mysterious about the dozens of springs, wheels, pinions, jewels, screws, and plates that conspire to unwind a mainspring and turn its stored tension into a precise display of the time. I think the allure is in the fact that it is […] Visit Five Analog Quartz Watches That Prove The Snobs Wrong to read the full article.