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Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Dec 21, 2023

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection has found a receptive and substantial audience since its introduction in 2015, firmly establishing itself as one the Swiss brand's most versatile and creatively innovative product families. Whether it's the retro appeal of its original 1960s design, the exclusivity of the Carl Brashear editions, or the playful pastels of the Cotton Candy models, the Oris Diver Sixty-Five has something for just about any type of watch enthusiast. Here is a comprehensive rundown of the line, from its mid-sixties inspiration to today.  1965: The Original Waterpoof Oris started making watches in 1904 in the Swiss town of Hölstein, where it is still based today. The brand made its first purpose-built dive watch in 1965, naming it the Oris Waterproof and targeting the era’s growing masses of recreational diving enthusiasts - many of whom were likely seeking a more affordable alternative to prohibitively priced genre pioneers like the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The Waterproof was a product of its time, with a case made of chromium-plated brass, a crystal made of Plexiglas, and a strap made of sturdy but decidedly non-luxurious black rubber. The case, with a dive-scale bezel that rotated in both directions, measured a rather modest 36mm and housed a manually wound mechanical movement, the 17-jewel Oris Caliber 654; at the time, Oris made most of its own movements in-house. This historical divers’ model (above, right), while never a...

Raketa’s Dive Watch is Made from a Recycled Nuclear Submarine SJX Watches
Raketa Dec 21, 2023

Raketa’s Dive Watch is Made from a Recycled Nuclear Submarine

The Raketa Sonar is a unique take on a dive watch. Featuring a funky, 1970s design with a colourful, 24-hour display – that was designed with the help of a Soviet navy captain – the Sonar has 200 m of water resistance. Two versions are available, a regular production and a limited edition – but it’s the latter that stands out. Both have steel cases, but the limited edition Sonar Kashalot has a bezel fabricated from titanium taken from the hull of the K-322 Kashalot, an Akula-class nuclear submarine that was deployed by the Soviet navy and decommissioned in 2019. Initial thoughts Known for its ostentatiously retro styling strongly evocative of Soviet-era timekeepers, Raketa sticks to its specialty with the Sonar. The design follows the mantra of form follows function: every aspect is catered to someone working in a nuclear-powered submariner. The 24-hour scale, for example, is useful since there is neither night nor day in a submarine. While the execution may not be to everyone’s taste, the originality of the concept is unmistakable. Recycled metal from Soviet nuclear submarines aren’t exactly rare – the Kashalot weighed over 14,000 tonnes fully loaded – but it gives the Sonar an additional degree of novelty and appeal. The submarine-titanium bezel is, however, substantially more expensive and only found on the limited edition. The standard model costs €1,900, and is the quality is as expected for the price. Raketa has improved its quality in recent years,...

Best of 2023: Value Propositions Below US$10,000 SJX Watches
Louis Erard Dec 21, 2023

Best of 2023: Value Propositions Below US$10,000

While the headline-grabbing watches of the year often featuring big complications and equally hefty prices, the year’s new launches also included a good number of value buys – both bang for the buck and accessibly priced. We have assembled a list highlighting the best value propositions of 2023, focusing on watches below US$10,000. Leading the list is a collaboration between Louis Erard and Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chakyin – unsurprisingly given Louis Erard’s speciality of making independent watchmaking more accessible. The Le Régulateur “Time-Eater” continues with the whimsical aesthetic of Mr Chaykin’s bestselling Wristmons line, but the Time-Eater only has one eye in order to fit the regulator-style display.  Like Louis Erard’s other regulator models, the Time-Eater in either version, 39 mm or 42 mm, is a thick watch at over 12 mm high, while inside is a no-frills Sellita automatic. But at CHF4,000 it was one of the best value buys in terms of independent watchmaking, and also the broader market. The 39 mm Time-Eater A fixture on our annual value-propositions list for some years now is Tudor, which has consistently distinguished itself with well-priced sports watches. Granted, all of the brand’s best products are dive watches – diversity is certainly not its strength for now – but the brand does one thing really well, thanks in large part to its brand-new, expansive manufacture. The brand had three noteworthy models in its line-u...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Rado Centrix Automatic Diamonds WatchAdvice
Casio n What We Love Dec 21, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The Rado Centrix Automatic Diamonds

The new Rado Centrix Diamonds is that perfect all-around watch for women – a touch sporty and a touch dressy that can pair with any outfit for any occasion. What We Love The rose gold paired with the white ceramicThe ability to dress up or downThe diamonds are not too showy What We Don’t The weight (compared to other pieces worn)The stripes on the dial (initially)The movement finishing could be a little higher Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 9/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 8.5/10 So, this isn’t your typical watch review from me. I’m not the intended target for the new Rado Centrix Automatic Diamonds, which you may have seen Rado Ambassador and former Women’s World Number 1 Tennis Champion, Ash Barty sporting recently. However, my wife, Dominique on the other hand is the person who would buy and wear this particular piece. Given she already owns a Rado True Ceramic Thinline in white, which I bought for her 10 years ago, I felt she was the perfect person to test out Rado’s new Centrix Automatic Diamonds. The new Rado Centrix Automatic Diamonds So I gave it to Dominique for a week to wear as she went about her week. And as a busy Mother of our two girls, running around after them, working 3 days a week in a senior corporate job and juggling a side business as well, she had her hands full. While wearing it for the week, I asked her a range of questions about the piece on its design, how it wore and felt on the wrist. So I’ve turned her w...

Recapping the Worn & Wound x Carryology Austin Meetup Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Packs abounded Dec 20, 2023

Recapping the Worn & Wound x Carryology Austin Meetup

Whether it’s watches or packs, these items are seen by enthusiasts as core pieces of kit for daily adventures. Both work best when they’re rugged, versatile, and well-built-and both Worn & Wound and Carryology are dedicated to providing their readers with in-depth reviews and news around the latest in watches and packs. When we discovered that we were fans of each other’s publications-it became immediately clear that partnering in multiple ways would only strengthen each other’s audiences. Last weekend’s meetup in Austin, TX only proved that point more emphatically. Readers from both publications converged on one of the city’s most exciting new distilleries: Fierce Whiskers. This location served as the perfect backdrop for enthusiasts to connect, grab a custom cocktail or two, and show off their watches and packs.   Regardless of whether your primary interest was what’s on your wrist or what’s on your back-it was immediately evident that these enthusiasts were cut from the same cloth. Watches ranged from robust divers like Sinns and Seikos to refined, go anywhere, do anything daily drivers like Rolex Oyster Perpetuals and Grand Seikos. Packs abounded and came in the form of everything from a wide array of Carryology collabs to high-end custom builds. There were also a group of enthusiasts who came with both amazing watches on-wrist, as well wildly cool backpacks and other carry solutions. For them, this event was a mind-melting meld of two of their a...

Hands-on – The Surprisingly Appealing Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve Monochrome
Union Glashütte Dec 20, 2023

Hands-on – The Surprisingly Appealing Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve

Let’s cut to the chase. In my book, the Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve takes the crown as one of the most aesthetically pleasing, if not the most attractive watch currently offered by the brand. I’ve appreciated certain pieces in the Belisar and Noramis collections, and Union Glashütte consistently demonstrates a keen […]

Last Minute Gifts for the Watch Person in Your Life Worn & Wound
Dec 20, 2023

Last Minute Gifts for the Watch Person in Your Life

Well, well, well. Another year, another frantic shopping rush to get everything in before the big day. Here at the Windup Watch Shop, we don’t shame anyone; after all we, ourselves, are scrambling to make sure every list has been checked off. While we’re at it, here are a few ideas and lifesavers to meet your last minute shopping needs and have you focusing on the most important aspects of the holidays: spending time with your watches – I mean, loved ones. We also recommend checking out our 2023 Holiday Gift Guide and other sales and promotions for even more amazing products. Regardless of whether you are a watch-lover yourself or you are shopping for one, check out these great deals. Well, well, well. Another year, another frantic shopping rush to get everything in before the big day. Here at the Windup Watch Shop, we don’t shame anyone; after all we, ourselves, are scrambling to make sure every list has been checked off. While we’re at it, here are a few ideas and lifesavers to meet your last minute shopping needs and have you focusing on the most important aspects of the holidays: spending time with your watches – I mean, loved ones. We also recommend checking out our 2023 Holiday Gift Guide and other sales and promotions for even more amazing products. Regardless of whether you are a watch-lover yourself or you are shopping for one, check out these great deals. The post Last Minute Gifts for the Watch Person in Your Life appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Business News: Collector Settles with Christie’s Over “Passion for Time” SJX Watches
Dec 20, 2023

Business News: Collector Settles with Christie’s Over “Passion for Time”

One of the most talked-about sales at last month’s Geneva auction season was Passion for Time at Christie’s, the dispersal of a collection belonging to Mohammed Zaman, an Omani businessman. The auction started almost an hour late with new estimates revised upwards, and majority of the lots sold to a third-party guarantor at the new low estimates. The guarantees and new estimates were announced by the auctioneer just before the start of the sale, as they should be, though it did little to dispel the confusion in the room. The proceedings immediately set off a frenzy online, some of it alleging misdeeds on the part of Christie’s. Most of it was unschooled speculation. Perhaps swayed by this, Mr Zaman quickly filed a lawsuit against Christie’s, leading to the watches being frozen. Two weeks on, the lawsuit has been withdrawn and Mr Zaman has resolved his dispute with Christie’s – a shrewd move in my opinion because he did well out of the sale. The 113 lots belonging to Mr Zaman achieved just under CHF38 million including fees – a result worthy of a standing ovation in the current market. Proof of the sale’s success was found two weeks later at the Hong Kong sales where prices were notably weaker than the results at Passion for Time, a testimony to the current market. The top lot at Passion for Time, the Philippe Dufour Grand Sonnerie wristwatch no. 1 that sold for CHF5.13 million including fees All’s well that ends well According to people familiar with the ...

Grand Seiko Reboots their Most Classic Dress Watch, Adding a Bracelet Option Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Reboots their Most Classic Dec 19, 2023

Grand Seiko Reboots their Most Classic Dress Watch, Adding a Bracelet Option

Over the last few years, Grand Seiko has introduced a nearly nonstop stream of variants in their popular “SBGW” line of 37mm, manually wound dress watches. We’ve covered these watches at length, because we’re honestly pretty big fans. There’s a lot to like: they are based on the original Grand Seiko design language dating back to the founding of the brand, they are relatively affordable when compared to other watches in the Grand Seiko catalog, and they possess an elegant simplicity that is easy to dress up or down with a simple strap change. And of course, as time passes, there’s seemingly no end to the colors and textures that might pop up. But one thing has eluded collectors, at least many in the United States, and that’s a bracelet option. The Japanese market has long had the ability to pair this case with an elegant stainless steel bracelet, but the American collector has to jump through some hoops. That changed last week in an update to the collection could serve to reset the “SBGW” experience.  The new SBGW305 sees the dress watch fashioned with a simple silver dial, and a case mounted to a five-row steel bracelet that appears to be virtually identical to the bracelet that was paired with the JDM model SBGW235. For a better look, you can check out our recent video on our team’s mutual love for Grand Seiko, where you’ll see Worn & Wound cofounder Zach Weiss guiding us through his own personal collection of Grand Seikos, which includes the SBGW2...

Value My Watch: These Online Sources Will Tell You What Your Timepiece Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 19, 2023

Value My Watch: These Online Sources Will Tell You What Your Timepiece

We all love our watches, but in many collectors' lives there comes a time to part with a once-beloved timepiece - often in the service of acquiring an even more beloved one to replace it. And in that circumstance, even the most sentimental of us will turn our focus to the realities and practicalities of the marketplace. “How much is my watch worth?” becomes the burning question of every would-be seller, whether they’re eyeing an auction house like Sotheby’s or Phillips, an online marketplace like eBay, or a secondary-market resale giant like Chrono24 or WatchBox. Fortunately, in today’s well-served watch-enthusiast universe, there are many resources available to value your watch before selling it - most of which you can access without ever leaving the comfort of your sofa. Of course, much like selling a car for its maximum return, it’s essential for the owner to do his or her homework. Hopefully, you still have all the watch’s original documentation, including the manual, the bill of sale, and the box that it came in, all of which will be helpful in determining the most important elements that factor into your watch’s resale value - i.e., its brand, model, age, and condition. Even if you don’t have all these original documents, however, you can still use the watch’s serial number or reference number, which is usually engraved somewhere on the case, as a starting point to track down more of these details.  Once a seller is armed with as much knowl...

Introducing – IWC Teams Up with Warner Bros for Two Aquaman-Themed Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Monochrome
IWC Teams Up Dec 19, 2023

Introducing – IWC Teams Up with Warner Bros for Two Aquaman-Themed Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital

Today, IWC Schaffhausen announced partnering with Warner Bros. Picture’s upcoming feature film Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom to launch two new models, inspired by the red and blue glowing prop watches that the brand supplied for the production of the highly-anticipated feature film sequel. Ultra-bold, clearly on the large side, equipped with multiple complications and […]

Sherpa Partners with a Popular Watch Podcast for their Latest Release Worn & Wound
Dec 19, 2023

Sherpa Partners with a Popular Watch Podcast for their Latest Release

While recovering from COVID, I recently watched a documentary I had heard about while listening to The Grey NATO Podcast. 14 Peaks: Nothing is impossible is the story of Nepali mountaineer Nimsdai Purja, who summited all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks in only seven months. The previous record was 7 years! Nims’ goal was to highlight the Nepalese climbing community. To this day, climbing these peaks cannot be done without the incredible endurance, courage, strength, and sheer determination of the Sherpas.  It is these Sherpas that inspired Enicar in the 1950s to create dive watches that could not only withstand the depths at sea but get even more water-resistant the deeper you dove. Thus, the super-compressor was born. Sadly, Enicar did not survive the 1970s quartz crisis. Thankfully, all was not lost, as in 2019 Martin Klocke of Germany revived the Sherpa and created a brand around this model. Just like its namesake, these are proper super-compressors. Featuring many of the original features combined with modern technology and know-how across two models, the Ultradive and OPS. Now, a new version of the latter is available thanks to a collaboration with a popular watch podcast.  Sherpa has teamed up with The Real Time Show podcast, hosted by industry insiders Alon Ben Joseph and Rob Nubbs, to create a sandblasted stainless-steel version of the OPS model (it was available only in polished steel or a black DLC finish previously). The result is a beautiful satin fin...

New IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month to be featured in Aquaman sequel Time+Tide
IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Dec 19, 2023

New IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month to be featured in Aquaman sequel

IWC reveals they created and delivered prop watches to be featured in the upcoming film Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom. Inspired by these prop watches, IWC have launched two new Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month watches limited to 25 pcs. for each configuration. Black 49mm Ceratanium® cases, one with red accents and another with blue … ContinuedThe post New IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month to be featured in Aquaman sequel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First Look – The Bold Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton “Year of the Dragon” Monochrome
Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton “Year Dec 19, 2023

First Look – The Bold Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton “Year of the Dragon”

Since its debut in 1957, the Hamilton Ventura has been a head-turner primarily because of its unconventional shape and, technically, because it was the first electric watch on the market. However, the wrist that catapulted the watch to fame belonged to Elvis Presley, who wore the watch in the 1961 film Blue Hawaii. To celebrate […]

Tiffany & Co.’s Table Clock Inspired by 1950s New York Taxicab SJX Watches
Patek Philippe timepieces Dec 19, 2023

Tiffany & Co.’s Table Clock Inspired by 1950s New York Taxicab

Now a cultural icon of New York City, Tiffany & Co. has turned to 1950s taxicabs of its home city for its latest tabletop timepiece. The Tiffany Taxi is an eight-day clock in aluminium and steel – in brand’s signature colour naturally. Taking the shape of a typical 1950s American automobile with tail fins, the Tiffany Taxi is both a timekeeper and automaton – it incorporates a time display as well as a V8 engine with moving pistons. And like past Tiffany clocks, it is made by L’Epée 1839, the go-to specialist in Switzerland for high-end clocks. Initial thoughts While primarily known for jewellery watches like its signature Bird on a Rock and double-signed Patek Philippe timepieces, the New York jeweller has recently unveiled a line of table clocks. The Tiffany Taxi is its most elaborate to date. In addition to the time display inside the engine compartment, the Taxi clock also has an “engine”, a mechanism taking the form of a V8 engine with pistons that move when the engine is “started”. Charming as it is, the Tiffany Taxi is a pricey horological novelty, with a retail price of US$50,000. It is, however, an impressive object for the desk that is particularly faithful to Tiffany’s history as a New York City institution. Inspired by midcentury cabs The Tiffany Taxi is modelled on the iconic taxicabs of New York City, in particular the Yellow Cabs made famous the world over by films about the city – but the clock is of course in the familiar Robin egg bl...

Announcement: New Faces Join the SJX Editorial Team SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s manufacture as well Dec 19, 2023

Announcement: New Faces Join the SJX Editorial Team

I am pleased to end the year with new additions to the team – Brandon Moore and David Ichim. Both occasional contributors before, Brandon and David will now become regular, exclusive contributors. Brandon’s writings explore the diversity of watchmaking and watch collecting. Amongst his recent stories are a visit to F.P. Journe’s manufacture, as well as its dial- and case-making facility. Brandon also recounted his experience learning traditional engine turning at a guilloche workshop by Nico Cox. And scheduled for January 2024: his story covering a visit to Akrivia’s workshops in Geneva. David’s contributions are more technically oriented, with the most recent being a detailed analysis of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum that explains why it might be the ultimate F.P. Journe chronomètre. A freshly-eroded remontoir spring at the F.P. Journe manufacture At the same time, Russell Sheldrake will be departing in early February 2024 – we wish him well. Finally, Oliver R. Müller of LuxeConsult is no longer a contributor to SJX Watches. He contributed a handful of articles from 2020 to 2023; these articles are no longer available on the site. Mr Müller is no longer associated with us in any form. Any queries can be directed to us via the contact form.  

What is Kollokium? The Mysterious Details Behind the Projekt 01 Worn & Wound
Louis Erard since 2020 overseeing Dec 18, 2023

What is Kollokium? The Mysterious Details Behind the Projekt 01

If you frequent certain corners of Watch Instagram, you likely came across a new and somewhat mysterious project last week called Kollokium. They appeared almost out of nowhere with minimal teasing, and presented a watch that you can’t yet buy that is certainly unique. The real story, though, is in the ethos of the brand itself. Part of that ethos is that they don’t actually consider themselves a brand at all, but a “project based platform” that exists to explore alternatives to traditional watchmaking.  It might help to start with the people behind the platform. Kollokium was founded in 2020 by three watch industry veterans: Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi. Emch is perhaps the most well known of the three, and has been leading Louis Erard since 2020, overseeing the brand’s incredible turnaround from through the smart execution of desirable limited editions with interesting collaborators. Nussbaumer is a watch designer who over the years has worked with Louis Erard, Petermann Bedat, and other brands (you can follow him on Instagram here). And Amr Sindi will be more familiar by his Instagram handle, @thehorophile. You might recall that Sindi collaborated on a limited edition release with Louis Erard earlier this year, and you’ll begin to see how these three individuals are all tied together, and the collaboration begins to make a bit more sense as a creative outlet that can exist apart from their respective day jobs.  OK, so, the watch itself. The...

Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Reveals Finalists SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Reveals Finalists Dec 18, 2023

Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Reveals Finalists

The shortlist of five finalists has just been announced for the first ever Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, an award that seeks to recognise and reward notable independent watchmakers. Selected from the 20 semi-finalists by the award’s committee of experts, a line-up of over 40 notables that included Benjamin Clymer of Hodinkee, author Nick Foulkes, Kari Voutilainen, and collector Mike Shanlikian, the five finalist watches and their makers will be judged by a jury of five who will ultimately decide the winner at a meeting on February 6, 2024. The five finalists are: Tischkalender Sympathique – Andreas Strehler RP1 – Régulateur à détente – Raúl Pagès L’Abeille Mécanique – John-Mikaël Flaux Reference 2941 – Petermann Bédat Chronometre Artisans – Simon Brette And the winner will be selected from these five by the jury of Carole Forstier Kasapi, head of movement development at TAG Heuer; collector and author Auro Montanari; retailer Michael Tay of The Hour Glass; watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi; and our founder Jiaxian Su. These five members were voted into their role by the committee of experts for this role. The eventual winner will receive a year-long mentorship at La Fabrique du Temps in order to further develop his creations, as well as a prize of €150,000. More about the finalists All five of these pieces are deserving of recognition and only go to highlight the vibrant market for independent creations we currently have. One of the...

Introducing – The Festive Scenery of the Hermès Arceau Costume de Fête Monochrome
Hermes Dec 18, 2023

Introducing – The Festive Scenery of the Hermès Arceau Costume de Fête

Hermès started life in 1837 as a purveyor of quality saddles and harnesses, and equestrian motifs permeate almost all the Parisian brand’s creations. Along with its coveted leather goods, silk scarves are an in-house staple, often designed in collaboration with leading artists. Creativity flows in all directions at Hermès, and designs found on silk scarves […]