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Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 Dec 16, 2021

Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925

The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is a dive watch in precious metal, but still affordable – by a large margin compared to the all-yellow gold version – but no less intriguing than its pricier cousin. The standout feature of the”925″ is obvious from the model name: a case made of sterling silver, which is 92.5% silver by weight. But the taupe colour scheme is perhaps more unusual, especially for a dive watch. Essentially a muted grey with a hint of olive, the palette makes this the most understated Black Bay to date. I was impressed when this was released at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, but found it seemingly bland when I first saw it in the metal, albeit tightly wrapped in protective plastic. A few months later, Tudor lent me one for a test drive. The brand had insured the watch and assured me that it was fine to wear it out of the house, so I wore it out the day I received it. Initial thoughts A bestseller since its inception three years ago, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight (BB58) quickly evolved from a single model into a line-up of five variants, three of which – gold, silver, and bronze – were launched just this year. Five versions in three years might sound like a lot, but each iteration is vastly different in both style and material, so each has its own appeal. Most importantly, each BB58 variant will likely appeal to different buyers. Among the BB58s, the 925 is arguably the most unique. For one, a precious metal case is novel for Tudor, a brand...

HANDS-ON: The Oris Rectangular has all the right angles and a welcome pop of colour Time+Tide
Oris Rectangular has all Dec 16, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Oris Rectangular has all the right angles and a welcome pop of colour

During Dubai Watch Week, as I found myself entertained by the travels of deputy editor Zach Blass, I found it a bit difficult to keep up with all the releases. Dozens of watches seemed to cross my screen on those late New York nights. In all my perusing, there was one watch that still managed … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Oris Rectangular has all the right angles and a welcome pop of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Czapek Debuts the Antarctique “Monochrome White” SJX Watches
Czapek Debuts Dec 15, 2021

Czapek Debuts the Antarctique “Monochrome White”

Revived six years ago via crowdfunding, Czapek’s original claim to fame was being the original business partner of Patek before he joined with Philippe. The brand has since gained traction thanks to its proprietary movements and more recently, a sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Now the sports watch is the basis of a collaboration between Czapek and Dutch watch magazine Monochrome. Featuring a muted, all-white livery, the Antarctique “Monochrome White” has a grained dial in pearl white. Initial thoughts While the Antarctique is a new entry into the integrated-bracelet sports watch segment, the design sticks to a familiar formula because there are only so many ways a sports watch with an integrated bracelet can be accomplished. The Monochrome edition sets itself apart with its white dial – a good look that’s unusual for a sports watch, a category where blue, grey, and green dials dominate. It’s a refreshing look that’s also practical, as light-coloured dial makes for good legibility. The case and bracelet of the Antarctique are also finished neatly with contrasting surfaces, but where the watch shines is the movement. Developed in-house with the help of specialists, it’s a micro-rotor automatic with a modern style but unusual details that evoke vintage pocket watch movements. Few competitors in this category and price range have movements that are similarly elaborate in construction and finish. The individual “finger” bridges for the gear tra...

INTRODUCING: The Monochrome Montre de Souscription 2 x Czapek Antarctique “Monochrome White” Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique “Monochrome White” While Dec 15, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Monochrome Montre de Souscription 2 x Czapek Antarctique “Monochrome White”

While the collection has been around for years now, more and more members of the watch community are waking up to the appeal of the Czapek Antarctique. We have lauded the watch here on the site for being a wonderful (and possibly better) alternative to some of the more unobtanium integrated sports watches. We were … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Monochrome Montre de Souscription 2 x Czapek Antarctique “Monochrome White” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Dec 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P

Just days after the inaugural Nautilus ref. 5711/1A Tiffany & Co. 170th Anniversary sold for just over US$6.5 million, Patek Philippe has announced a wristwatch at the other end of the watchmaking spectrum. The latest in a series of watches focused on experimental new technologies, the “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater ref. 5750P-001 is the ultimate Patek Philippe minute repeater in terms of acoustics. Equipped with a patented amplification device named ‘fortissimo “ff”‘, the ref. 5750P strikes chimes that are so loud they are audible 60 m away according to Patek Philippe. Initial thoughts The ref. 5750P is interesting both mechanically and aesthetically. The R 27 PS movement certainly lives up to the “Advanced Research” label with its amplification mechanism, while the design is practically radical, at least in terms of Patek Philippe grand complications. While the “fortissimo” device relies on a few familiar principles, including a crystal soundboard and perforated case back, it is still novel enough to make it interesting. While other watchmakers have built repeating movements based on the same concepts, including Audemars Piguet with its Supersonnerie, Patek Philippe has done it in a classical fashion with an impressively thin movement that is very much typical of the brand. Visually, the ref. 5750P is radically different from any Patek Philippe repeater. Even the most contemporary of the brand’s striking watches are conventionally classical in...

Ralph Ellison’s Omega Speedmaster breaks the record for the most expensive 145.012 ever sold Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster breaks Dec 14, 2021

Ralph Ellison’s Omega Speedmaster breaks the record for the most expensive 145.012 ever sold

As the home of watch culture, Time+Tide is always intrigued by how the niche world of horology and the broader milieu of culture impact on each other. We previously explored the effect of celebrity provenance on watches and the prices they fetch, but this past weekend at Phillips we once again saw a clear indicator … ContinuedThe post Ralph Ellison’s Omega Speedmaster breaks the record for the most expensive 145.012 ever sold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: The Franck Muller Museum in Singapore SJX Watches
Casio n Dec 13, 2021

Exhibition: The Franck Muller Museum in Singapore

Founded in 1992 by the eponymous watchmaker, Franck Muller celebrates its 30th anniversary next year. And just in time for the occasion, the brand has transformed its flagship boutique in Singapore into a pop-up museum. The Franck Muller Museum – A Horological Journey is now open until March 20, 2022. The exhibits include not just the brand’s notable historical timepieces watches  but even Mr Muller’s own watchmaking bench from Franck Muller Watchland in Geneva (pictured above). The exhibition is taking place at the brand’s boutique in Wisma Atria A story of success Once a struggling independent watchmaker – he was one of the earliest AHCI members in fact – Franck Muller founded a brand that is global. Best known for its tonneau-shaped Cintree Curves case and imaginative complications like Crazy Hours and Master Banker, Franck Muller has a string of “World Premieres” to its name. They refer to the never-seen-before complications or combinations of complications that the brand unveiled almost every year from its founding. Amongst the World Premieres was the first triple-axis tourbillon wristwatch in 2004 and then in 2007 the Aeternitas Mega, a monumental watch that was the most complicated wristwatch ever at the time of its launch. A World Premiere Grand Complication from the late 1990s The more recent Grand Central Tourbillon in the Cintree Curvex case Because of its often over the top style, the brand is sometimes underrated by watch enthusiasts, despite...

Up Close: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 SJX Watches
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Originally Dec 13, 2021

Up Close: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80

Originally launched with a quartz movement in early 2021, the Tissot PRX really caught on when it got an automatic movement a few months later. Equipped with a cost-efficient yet high tech ETA calibre, the PRX Powermatic 80 costs just US$650 – making it an easily affordable iteration of the integrated-bracelet sports watch. Initial thoughts Modelled on the Seastar ref. 40205 launched in 1978 – it’s practically a remake in fact – the PRX Powermatic 80 doesn’t try to do too much. Instead it focuses on doing just a few things right, just enough to look good while maintaining its affordability. Its modest price tag is evident up close, but the PRX still looks good enough on the wrist. The PRX Powermatic 80 successfully reproduces the feel of the 1978 original. It’s a little bit bigger, but still compact by modern standards. More importantly, the PRX retains the right proportions in terms of case, bracelet, and dial. One of its best features is its size. At 40 mm wide and 10.9 mm high, the PRX is just right. The case middle is fairly thin and matched with an equally thin bracelet – that has a solid double-fold clasp – giving it a refined feel on the wrist. As for the design, it’s a good look – and certainly a popular one today – but derivative. That’s because the 1978 original itself was fairly generic. The 1978 Seastar was just one of many watches that shared a style that was popular in the late 1970s and well into the 1980s. One of the most obvio...

MICRO MONDAYS: Betting on black with the Brellum Wyvern GMT LE.1 Ghost Chronometer Time+Tide
Dec 13, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Betting on black with the Brellum Wyvern GMT LE.1 Ghost Chronometer

What would you do if you were an independent brand and created a specced out sports watch? A sports watch made with limited production and containing a chronometer-grade movement. Well, it seems for Brellum, you double down on the sportiness and provide something special. That something special in this case is a DLC-coated version, in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Betting on black with the Brellum Wyvern GMT LE.1 Ghost Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaw-Dropping Phillips Auction Of The Tiffany & Co Double-Signed Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018: Some Deep Thoughts And Wider Implications, Plus Auction Video Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 5711/1A-018 Some Dec 12, 2021

Jaw-Dropping Phillips Auction Of The Tiffany & Co Double-Signed Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018: Some Deep Thoughts And Wider Implications, Plus Auction Video

The Phillips watch auction in New York on December 11, 2021 sold a brand-new Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711/1A-018, double signed “Tiffany & Co”. The hammer fell at a jaw-dropping price of $5.35 million. The buyer’s premium on the sale was an additional $1.153 million. Brendan Cunningham reflects on that auction result and the possible wider implications for the market.

Lewis Hamilton vs. Max Verstappen / IWC vs. TAG Heuer: The One Formula 1 Race Where Everyone Wins Quill & Pad
TAG Heuer Dec 11, 2021

Lewis Hamilton vs. Max Verstappen / IWC vs. TAG Heuer: The One Formula 1 Race Where Everyone Wins

With the 2021 Formula 1 season's last race taking place this weekend, December 10-12, 2021, in Abu Dhabi, and Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes) and Max Verstappen (Red Bull) tied for first place, the heat is on like never before. The battle between Hamilton and Verstappen is, in essence, also a competition between the two watch brands who sponsor them: IWC (Hamilton) and TAG Heuer (Verstappen), with both brands benefitting from the battles on the track. Martin Green takes a closer look.

J.N. Shapiro Infinity Tantalum: Fractals, Infinity, And Mastery Of Technique Quill & Pad
Breguet Dec 10, 2021

J.N. Shapiro Infinity Tantalum: Fractals, Infinity, And Mastery Of Technique

J.N. Shapiro is the eponymous brand of Josh Shapiro, an educator turned watchmaker who specializes in guilloche. His latest watch, the Infinity Tantalum, is a classic three-hander with a small seconds dial designed in the spirit of George Daniels, Breguet, and other greats. The palladium dial is completely hand-guilloche and sports tantalum chapter rings. And, oh, that gorgeous style!

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tiffany madness, DeBethune and Richard Mille in space, and a Marvel Hawkeye Rolex? Time+Tide
Richard Mille Dec 10, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tiffany madness, DeBethune and Richard Mille in space, and a Marvel Hawkeye Rolex?

Although we are approaching the holiday season, the watch world shows no signs of slowing down. A lot (pun intended) has been revealed this week – most notably the fact that tomorrow we’ll discover how well a Tiffany Blue 5711/1A-018 fares at auction when the bidding opens at Phillips. I am not typically a betting … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tiffany madness, DeBethune and Richard Mille in space, and a Marvel Hawkeye Rolex? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour Time+Tide
Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection Dec 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour

When someone hears “Omega”, the watch that pops into their head is invariably the iconic Speedmaster. Yet the brand’s dress watches are some of their oldest designs. Born in 1952, the Constellation line featured signature elements such as the fluted bezel and pie-pan dial that have subsequently made their way into three new Globemaster models … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.