Hodinkee
Ben Clymer Presents: Ep. 8 – The Vintage Patek Episode With John Reardon
The ins and outs of vintage Patek Philippe including dream references, peak values, and sleeper hits.
Results for DLC and PVD Coating
29,580 articles · 1,991 videos found · page 665 of 1053
Hodinkee
Time+Tide
The Tusenö Shellback V2 is a stylish Swedish dive watch that’s a cut above most independent offerings
A tasteful sandwich dial, enormous amount of lume and on-the-fly micro-adjustment helps this Swedish watch stand out from the pack.The post The Tusenö Shellback V2 is a stylish Swedish dive watch that’s a cut above most independent offerings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Dear Santa: Peter makes his picks Christmas Wishlist for 2023
And to close our Dear Santa roundup this year with the Chief Editor's picks. We return the rationale for the wishlist, and why we do this exercise annually.
SJX Watches
The Affordable Seiko 5 “Field” Gains a GMT Function
Seiko has expanded its range of (very) reasonably priced sports watches with the Seiko 5 Sports Field Sports Style GMT. Available in stainless steel (SSK023) or black-coated steel (SSK025), it retains the military-inspired aesthetics of its time-only counterparts, while incorporating an additional hour hand showing a second time zone. Initial thoughts The new models evoke a sense of familiarity with the “field” style dial and 24-hour markers, a longstanding design that’s been part of the Seiko 5 line-up for decades. But now the dial adopts a modern, utilitarian style, departing from the vintage-inspired aesthetic found in the time-only “field” models such as the SRPG35 and SRPJ85. And purists will appreciate the absence day-of-the-week display, with the dial having just the date. The black-on-black SSK025 achieves an almost ideal look for this type of watch. The near-monochromatic aesthetic creates an extremely satisfying contrast with the orange accents that brings to mind a fighter jet cockpit. The SSK025 Beyond the cosmetic changes, the new models are typical of Seiko’s entry-level GMT models. They are more accurately described as dual time zone watches with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than true GMT watches that feature an adjustable local-time hour hand, as seen in pricier watches from Grand Seiko or Tudor. Although setting the time for a second time zone involves a few additional steps, this represents an acceptable compromise consid...
Time+Tide
Five of the best watches from TAG Heuer in 2023
With strong releases left, right, and centre, TAG Heuer has played their cards right this year.The post Five of the best watches from TAG Heuer in 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Wildly Reflective Surfaces of the Zenith Defy Extreme Mirror
Camouflage dials have been a big hit in the past couple of years, and we’ve covered several combat-ready models. Zenith pushes the camouflage concept to the extreme, giving its Defy Extreme a radical makeover with a reflective mirrored surface. Undoubtedly the boldest take on its high-performance 1/100th-of-a-second chronograph, the latest manifestation blends into its surroundings […]
Quill & Pad
Bartolo Mascarello: Not just a Great Italian Winery, but One of the World’s Great Wineries
Mascarello is an Italian wine producer family that adheres to the old ways. Apparently, there is no email nor website (I certainly could not find one), and until 1990 they did not even have a phone. However, there are many who believe that Maria Teresa (granddaughter of founder Giulio Mascarello) has taken the wines to unprecedented heights. After a recent visit to the winery in Italy, Ken Gargett is one of them.
Worn & Wound
Rado Brings Back the Anatom, a Lost Classic from the 1980s
Over the weekend, Rado dipped into their archives to bring back a lost classic from the 1980s. If you can recall the early 80s (or just have a penchant for watches of this era) you might remember the Anatom. This square cased watch with a dramatically curved case and sapphire crystal has been ripe for repurposing for the last few years – it certainly has some integrated bracelet sports watch notes to it. What Rado has done with this release is take the premise of the watch from the 80s and modernize it using Rado’s contemporary design language. The result is an Anatom that doesn’t look much like the original, but clearly shares some DNA and is unmistakably a Rado. The most significant difference between the original Anatom and the new version is the more prominent use of ceramic in the present day model. Rado has always been keen to experiment with materials, especially ceramic, but they’ve really leaned into this as part of their brand identity quite heavily in the last few years. Most of the key models in their lineup are either full ceramic, or ceramic in all the important places. That’s where the Anatom fits in. The new version has a PVD coated steel midcase, but the ceramic bezel leaves a large visual impression, and we also get a ceramic crown and a ceramic overlay on the integrated rubber strap’s clasp. The case measures 32.5mm x 46.3mm and is 11.3mm tall. As with the vintage versions of this watch, the case is curved, which in turn means the dial and ...
Worn & Wound
Missed Review: The IWC Mark XVII
I’ve had an admiration for IWC’s watches for a long time, and have owned multiple Pilot’s Chronographs and an Aquatimer over the years, but until recently I’d never spent a significant amount of time with a watch in their storied Mark series. These simple pilot’s watches are core to IWC’s history and the perception of the brand, and historically represent an entry point into the catalog for collectors. Die hard IWC fans have long debated the “best” of the Mark watches. Head over to any internet forum or comments section where watches are discussed amongst enthusiasts, and you’re certain to find people debating the finer points of date window placement, case thickness, and diameter across the breadth of Mark watches over the years. I acquired a Mark XVII from a local collector friend recently. This is a watch I’ve experienced on a nearly monthly basis at watch meetups over the last few years, and I’ve always said to this friend: Let me know if you ever decide to sell it. We all have a watch like this in our orbit, right? There might be an actual commandment against coveting, but in this hobby it’s fairly normal to stake a claim for something you want that a friend has in their possession. Well, we reap what we sow. Said friend decided to let his Mark go, and after some (internal) deliberation, a deal was struck, and I quite unexpectedly owned one of the objectively strangest watches IWC has made in the last few decades. The thing is, the Mark wat...
Hodinkee
Breaking News: It’s Back! Universal Genève To Relaunch Under The Same Ownership As Breitling
Breitling and Partners Group acquire the historic watchmaking brand, say it will relaunch "fully aware of the task at hand and the profound heritage we are set to uphold."
SJX Watches
Breaking News: Breitling Acquires Universal Genève
Breitling has just announced the acquisition of Universal Genève, a once-storied brand famous for its Polerouter and Compax chronographs but that was dormant for years. Breitling will pay CHF60 million for the brand, but in tranches with CHF20 million upfront and the balance over the next five years. The acquisition marks the first step in chief executive Georges Kern’s ambitions of building a watchmaking group, which will presumably go public. According to Mr Kern, Universal will be revived by a new team and run independently of Breitling, though it is almost a certainty Breitling will bestow upon its sister company some of its in-house movement know-how. A sleeping beauty Since 1989, Universal Genève has been owned Stelux, a Hong Kong watchmaking group focused on the affordable end of the market. The company’s primary business is the lucrative distribution of Seiko in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia, while its City Chain stores specialised in low-priced watches. Stelux owns a handful of other Swiss brands, including Solvil et Titus and Catena, none of which are premium brands as Universal might possibly be. Although Universal attempted several halfhearted comebacks, particularly in the 1990s, the brand has gone nowhere for some time, making it a relatively easy turnaround given the starting point. Commenting in the takeover announcement, Breitling chief executive Georges Kern says, “Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor-it is a meti...
Worn & Wound
Farer’s Latest is Inspired by the Pullman Company, the Historic UK Train Car Manufacturer
When it comes to setting the standard for British elegance, does anyone do it better than Farer? The London-based watchmaker, whose timepieces are produced in Switzerland, recently launched their latest in the Cushion Case collection: The Durham Pullman. Evoking a bygone era, this latest from Farer takes inspiration from the Pullman Company, manufacturer of train cars throughout the United Kingdom. With this, the mixture of greens and silver balances a bit of sophistication with everyday wear. The dial is the real selling point of this watch, so we’ll talk about that first. The dial boasts a luxurious dark green hue with a metallic brushed finish, lending it a dynamic tone under varying lights. Atop this base, a raised ring with a radial brushed finish creates the distinctive sector dial effect of the Cushion Case collection. Resting on this ring are highly polished silver markers- a blend of batons and Roman numerals-accompanied by a refined dauphine handset. Complementing these silver elements is the seconds sub-dial, featuring a sunken silver channel with an engine-turned finish. These meticulous details converge to establish the seasonal release of the Durham Pullman as an exceptionally refined timepiece suitable for both formal occasions and weekend outings alike. As part of the Cushion Collection, the Durham Pullman is bound to have presence when worn due to its shape and easy-to-style size that complements a variety of wearers. Sitting at 38.5 mm with a 43.8mm...
Deployant
Dear Santa: Stanley makes his Christmas Wishlist for 2023
Stanley makes his picks for his Dear Santa Wishlist. With a diverse selection ranging from UN to JLC and MB&F;. What will Santa bring him this Christmas?
Monochrome
Industry News – Breitling Acquires Historic Brand Universal Genève
Despite being barely existent anymore or now a memory from the past, some brands continue to live within the collecting community, benefitting from a certain aura. One of these brands is Universal Genève, a once-prominent manufacturer known for its innovative designs (the Polerouter or the Tri-Compax, to name a few) and technically advanced movements (the […]
Time+Tide
A subtle flight of fancy: Zenith’s revamped Pilot collection flies high
These modern pilot's watches nevertheless still pay homage to the history of flight and pilot’s watches with subtle touches.The post A subtle flight of fancy: Zenith’s revamped Pilot collection flies high appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
A Watchmaker’s Technical Look at the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Fire: A Dual-Balance Watch with a Difference – Reprise
The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Fire has captivated everybody with the mesmerizing appearance of its twin balances and the unusual, long, sinuous, grey spring gently oscillating along the middle of the watch. 'The Horological Journal' editor and watchmaker Justin Koullapis asks the question, "Does it live up to the hyperbole?"
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Best Bronze Watches | Our Favorite Models For 2024
Check out our favorite bronze watch models of the year - get the unmatched look of bronze patina and love what's on your wrist!
Monochrome
First Look – The Seiko 5 Sports Field Watch, now with a GMT Complication
For about a year and a half, basically since the launch of the 5 Sports Style GMT collection, it seems that the dual-time complication has become the main focus of Seiko, applying this convenient feature across most of its ranges. We’ve seen it in the SPB381, SPB383 and SPB385, the first mechanical GMT divers of […]
SJX Watches
Insight: The Breguet Cal. 728 of the Type XX Chronograph
With roots in 1950s French military-issue chronographs, the modern-day Type XX Chronographe was originally released in the mid-1990s and is now’s trademark pilot’s chronograph – and also the brand’s entry-level complication. Originally utilising Lemania-based movement in prior generations, the Type XX was entirely revamped, inside and out, with the unveiling of the Type XX Chronograph 2057 and 2067 earlier this year. While the aesthetics have been revised, the most notable upgrade in the new-generation Type XX is a brand-new movement, the cal. 728. The cal. 728 is a high-frequency movement running at 36,000 beats per hour that employs a novel patent-pending flying mechanism as well as an inventive reset system. The release of a completely new, in-house chronograph movement is uncommon, especially one with novel innovations that went under the radar. In fact, the cal. 728 is arguably one of the most sophisticated and advanced modern-day chronograph movements, putting it alongside the Audemars Piguet cal. 4401/4409 and Rolex cal. 4131. As a result, the cal. 728 deserves a closer look. Controlled return The cal. 728 is actually two related movements: the cal. 728 is an automatic, flyback-chronograph movement with three registers for elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours that is inside the three-counter Type XX ref. 2067, while the cal. 7281 is a two-counter version of the calibre found in the military-inspired Type XX ref. 2057. The most novel component of the cal. 728 ...
Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces a Conceptual Take on the Defy Extreme with a New Reference Sporting a Highly Reflective Mirror Finish
An idea that we return to frequently around here is the ability of Zenith, moreso than just about any other Swiss brand with a lengthy, complex history, to straddle the line between heritage and pushing forward with daring, contemporary designs. Think of almost any other brand with roots dating to the late 19th or early 20th century that is still making watches, and chances are they focus largely on paying respect to the past, or they have moved on and iterated in some way. Zenith, on parallel tracks, does both, and I think one of the reasons they’re able to do that so successfully is that pushing the envelope aesthetically is part of their heritage. The Defy line is the most obvious example of this, and with this new Defy Extreme reference, Zenith continues to define what it means to be a Defy in the first place with a bold new take on their high spec chronograph that is as much sculpture as it is horology. The Defy Extreme Mirror, as the of the watch would imply, is all mirrored surfaces, creating a unique and highly reflective effect that is actually almost the antithesis of what we’ve previously seen from the Extreme line. This, after all, is Zenith’s most hardcore sports watch, and is frequently seen in rugged, blacked out cases made from tech forward materials. The Defy Extreme Mirror, however, is stainless steel, and has been given a mirror polish on every surface that is meant to evoke the appearance of chrome. It’s objectively decorative, but the highly ...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Graceful Rose Gold Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction
Moritz Grossmann (a manufacturer named after the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking) creates some of the most beautifully crafted wristwatches available today, and one of its finest offerings is the Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction, introduced earlier this year. Like the brand’s Tremblage, Hamatic or Benu Heritage models, this watch is rich […]
Worn & Wound
Setting a New Standard with Serica Watches
Founded in 2019 and off to a strong start, Serica has embarked on a journey to elevate the quality of their brand. By sticking to a few key components, Serica Watches is bringing their entire lineup of handsome, timeless wrist watches up to the next level. It’s easy to rest on your laurels and coast, but pushing towards refinement of small details and improving quality for the wearer is of the utmost importance to the brand. Today, we’re taking a look at the key points that Serica has set out to achieve. Whether it’s their allegiance to automatic movements, or the pursuit of thin, yet rugged watches, there’s now even more to like about these handsome timepieces from the French brand. Always Automatic At the heart of any watch in the Serica lineup, there will always be an automatic movement. Whether it’s the Soprod C125 GMT movement inside the 8315 Travel Chronometer, or the automatic M100 in the 5303 Diving Chronometer, each and every watch has a high quality automatic movement. Reliable and accurate, these movements call back to the classic era of horology that Serica draws their inspiration from for the rest of their design. Besides the cool-factor, having an automatic movement is convenient for daily wear, as the watch will stay wound via the motion of your wrist. The post Setting a New Standard with Serica Watches appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Top Swiss watch CEOs tell Fortune they’ve been too “arrogant” as the pandemic watch boom peters out
“We are a little bit arrogant. We feel that we are the king of the customer - and it’s the customer who is the king. You should never reverse this.’’The post Top Swiss watch CEOs tell Fortune they’ve been too “arrogant” as the pandemic watch boom peters out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Breguet Reine de Naples 8925 Valentine’s Day Edition 2024
As the leading watchmaker of his day, Abraham-Louis Breguet hobnobbed with France’s royalty and aristocracy. Apart from his commissions for gentlemen, his celebrity client list also included Queen Marie-Antoinette, Empress Josephine, and Caroline Murat, Napoleon Bonaparte’s youngest sister, aka the Queen of Naples. A keen collector of Breguet’s revolutionary timekeepers, in 1810, Caroline Murat placed […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Montford Watch Co. Rubus, A Cool Field Watch with Charity in Mind
It can get a bit tiring introducing “another” affordable field watch from “another” new microbrand, but the Rubus from Montford Watch Company is different, supporting Tusk’s charity work in Africa with a well-thought timepiece that’s anything but an afterthought. From the textured steel grey dial, proven automatic movement and a pair of cool straps, the […]
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon”
In keeping with its tradition of special editions for the Chinese Lunar New Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon” to celebrate the Year of the Wood Dragon that begins in early 2024. A limited edition that’s made-to-order, the Reverso “Dragon” maintains the timeless, double-sided design, but with a black grand feu enamel dial and a hand-engraved case back portraying a Chinese dragon. Initial thoughts Commemorative Lunar New Year editions are not new for Jaeger-LeCoultre, as the brand produced an equivalent edition last year. However, the formal works: combining enamel and engraving results in a more elaborate design compared to the typical Reverso while still retaining the elegance and character of the model. The watch showcases a captivating motif on its back. On closer inspection, intricate details come to the fore, with the dragon depicted in low relief against a fired enamel background. Although almost monochromatic, it is undeniably vivid. Just like last year’s Tiger edition, the Reverso “Dragon” is made-to-order and is priced at US$107,000 before taxes. It comes in slightly higher than the previous Reverso models featuring similar artwork. It is expensive for what it is, despite the evident artistry of the decoration, particularly since Jaeger-LeCoultre is historically a brand associated with more affordable watches. A lavish depiction of a Chinese dragon The Reverso “Dragon” depicts a dragon in the clouds against a ...
Worn & Wound
Shopping the Windup 2023 Holiday Gift Guide
It’s over a week into December, and no doubt your holiday shopping is in full swing unless you’re a last minute shopper (we’ll have a blog post for you soon enough too, so stay tuned). For the proactive among us, or even the lost soul who has somehow found your way here trying to shop for the watch fanatic in your life, welcome. The kind folks at the Windup Watch Shop have you covered with our 2023 Holiday Gift Guide. Consider this a guide for a guide, if you will. It’s over a week into December, and no doubt your holiday shopping is in full swing unless you’re a last minute shopper (we’ll have a blog post for you soon enough too, so stay tuned). For the proactive among us, or even the lost soul who has somehow found your way here trying to shop for the watch fanatic in your life, welcome. The kind folks at the Windup Watch Shop have you covered with our 2023 Holiday Gift Guide. Consider this a guide for a guide, if you will. The post Shopping the Windup 2023 Holiday Gift Guide appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – Some Of The Best Collaboration Watches We’ve Recently Come Across
“Put two creative people in a room, and watch the magic happen.” While it might not exactly work like that, a joint project between two designers, artists or brands can lead to wonderful new things. It happens in art, it happens in fashion, and as you’ve guessed it, it happens in watchmaking. Over the years, […]
Quill & Pad
Hello, Newman: A Collector Looks Askance at the Cult of the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona – Reprise
For watch lovers, the name “Paul Newman” is associated first and foremost with Rolex, and in particular with a subset of that brand’s Daytona watches with specific dial characteristics, including a recessed outer seconds track and subdials that feature block-shaped hashmarks and Art Deco-style Arabic numerals. But what does this nickname mean for these references on the vintage market? And what does GaryG think about it?
Time+Tide
Omega’s Seamaster 300M Paris is clad in medal gold
With nods to the winners' medals and revolutionary icon Marianne, Omega pays tribute to the Paris Olympics.The post Omega’s Seamaster 300M Paris is clad in medal gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.