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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium feels like the future on your wrist Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Dec 9, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium feels like the future on your wrist

Even after such a strong year for Hublot, and after getting up close and personal with the Black Magic version here, the new Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium still intrigues me with its intricately woven industrial micro-architecture. Even as the Big Bang series is getting close to becoming an industry standard for large, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium feels like the future on your wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe GMT SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Dec 9, 2020

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe GMT

Having made its three years ago with the affordable, vintage-inspired HMS and Bicompax – like many other brands in the segment – Baltic soon expanded its catalogue to include a similarly retro dive watch (and just last week an edition for Dubai retailer Perpétuel). And now the dive watch gets  second time zone function with the launch of the Aquascaphe GMT. Introduced in three variants – with the most striking being the version with an orange and blue bezel – the Aquascaphe GMT is very much modelled on 1950s “big crown” dive watches, but with a sapphire-covered bezel and Swiss-made Soprod movement. Initial thoughts The Aquascaphe GMT continues to play to the strengths of Baltic, a French brand that manages good, vintage-inspired design in a a compact package, and at a modest price. Admittedly, such vintage-inspired watches are not particularly original, but they are have appeal, particularly since modern construction give them a practicality and robustness that the vintage originals lack. Credit goes to Baltic in giving the new GMT enough character to make it reasonably original. For instance, the 24-hour bezel is offered in interesting combinations of colours that are not the usual “Pepsi” or “Coke”, from a restrained grey and blue to a vibrant blue and orange. The rest of the GMT is similar to the original Aquascaphe dive watch, which means a handsome, compact case with good enough finishing for the price. But the GMT does diverge from the time-o...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Dec 9, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

Launched with a solid-colour, grand feu enamel dial, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon has been given simple but significant facelift with a new dial that’s a mix of aventurine glass and vitreous enamel. Made up of ground, powdered aventurine glass mixed with enamel powder, the dial has a deep, glossy surface with the characteristic sparkly metallic inclusions of aventurine glass. Initial thoughts When Audemars Piguet first launched the Code 11.59, only the perpetual calendar model had an aventurine-glass dial, and it was one of the best looking watches in the line up. Though not exactly identical, the aventurine-glass dials on the new tourbillons are no doubt as appealing, especially since they fill up the expanse of the dial. Even though the Code 11.59 lacks the desirability of the fashionable Royal Oak, it is an appealing watch when done right, as this one is. The new dial is a good fit for the case, which was well done to begin with. Featuring a fairly complex construction for a round watch, the case is sharply finished. Arguably the only downside of the case is its size, which is not large at 41 mm wide, but feels chunky on the wrist. The cal. 2950 made its debut last year with the Code 11.59. Also found in the recently launched Royal Oak tourbillon, the cal. 2950 is an attractively designed movement with an unusual detail: a grande sonnerie-style winding click integrated onto the barrel ratchet wheel. With a retail price of about US$150,000, the Code 11...

A Beginner’s Guide to the best smartwatches for Kids in 2020 – 5 of the most popular and why Time+Tide
Dec 8, 2020

A Beginner’s Guide to the best smartwatches for Kids in 2020 – 5 of the most popular and why

There are three reasons to gift your child a smartwatch. One, it is a great way to introduce your kid(s) to the horological world and get them going early on their love for a timekeeper on the wrist. The second reason is timing; the holidays are almost here. The third reason is, having done some … ContinuedThe post A Beginner’s Guide to the best smartwatches for Kids in 2020 – 5 of the most popular and why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 9 – Dumi Oburota, the man who launched Tinie Tempah, has a collection to envy Time+Tide
Dec 8, 2020

11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 9 – Dumi Oburota, the man who launched Tinie Tempah, has a collection to envy

Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. In this series, ‘11 Days of Londoners’, Mike will be sharing the stories of a few notable local collectors, starting on Day 1 with King Nerd, and with a stellar lineup still to come. … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 9 – Dumi Oburota, the man who launched Tinie Tempah, has a collection to envy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Davidoff Brothers Assess the Temple of Speed Collection of Speedmasters Revolution
Omega Speedmaster sit down Dec 8, 2020

Davidoff Brothers Assess the Temple of Speed Collection of Speedmasters

Roy & Sacha Davidoff, two individuals we love and consider to be some of the best minds in all things Omega Speedmaster, sit down with Wei Koh over Zoom to give us their two cents on all of the Speedmasters that make up the Temple of Speed collection. The Temple of Speed is Revolution’s complete collection of vintage and modern collectible OMEGA Speedmasters, now on permanent display at the Revolution Watch Bar, in Singapore.

Seiko Introduces the 140th Anniversary King Seiko KSK “44KS” Re-creation SJX Watches
Grand Seiko remakes are numerous making Dec 8, 2020

Seiko Introduces the 140th Anniversary King Seiko KSK “44KS” Re-creation

Introduced in 1961 as a top-of-the-line Seiko, the King Seiko label is being revived for the brand’s 140th anniversary. A remake of the second King Seiko model of 1965, the Seiko 140th Anniversary Re-creation of King Seiko KSK (ref. SJE083) is a limited-edition automatic that’s only the second King Seiko remake in as many decades. It comes along a long time after the first very remake, which was the SCVN001 introduced as part of the Historical Collection in 2000. Initial thoughts Like most Seiko remakes, the King Seiko KSK is faithfully executed, albeit with a few tweaks to accommodate the new movement. The case is larger than the original, and the dial now incorporates a date display. But the tweaks to the design are done artfully enough that the remake still looks very much like a vintage watch. And while Grand Seiko remakes are numerous, making them less uncommon than they once were, this is only the second King Seiko remake to date. While it is almost a certainty there will be more remakes to come, this is fairly special edition for the time being. The vintage King Seiko KSK “44KS” of 1965 Interestingly, the remake also sits in between Grand Seiko and entry-level models like the Presage in both price and quality, making it a useful proposition for someone who has a budget that doesn’t quite reach Grand Seiko level. Fittingly since the vintage original was conceived as a high-end wristwatch – comparable to Grand Seiko but perhaps a step down in luxury –...

11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 7 – Bill Prince, one of the most stylish gentlemen in the watch industry Time+Tide
Dec 6, 2020

11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 7 – Bill Prince, one of the most stylish gentlemen in the watch industry

Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. In this series, ‘11 Days of Londoners’, Mike will be sharing the stories of a few notable local collectors, starting on Day 1 with King Nerd, and with a stellar lineup still to come. … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 7 – Bill Prince, one of the most stylish gentlemen in the watch industry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Zero West TT-58 gets revved up with Aston Martin’s panache Time+Tide
Dec 6, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Zero West TT-58 gets revved up with Aston Martin’s panache

We recently covered up-and-coming British manufacturer Zero West, and their Spitfire S4-P9427 aviation watch. But pilot’s watches are not the only horological ace up their sleeve, they also encapsulate great moments in British history on land and sea. Across all three lines, one common theme they share are distinctive cases and aesthetics that can only … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Zero West TT-58 gets revved up with Aston Martin’s panache appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

12 Watches On The Block At Phillips New York December 2020 Racing Pulse Auction, Including Some Celebrity-Owned By Steve McQueen, Paul Newman, Bono, Andy Warhol, And John Lennon Quill & Pad
Panerai history including Dec 5, 2020

12 Watches On The Block At Phillips New York December 2020 Racing Pulse Auction, Including Some Celebrity-Owned By Steve McQueen, Paul Newman, Bono, Andy Warhol, And John Lennon

The Phillips Racing Pulse auction showcases something of a timeline of Panerai history, including the legendary Luminor Slytech Daylight owned by Sylvester Stallone, as well as Paul Newman's Rolex Daytona and Steve McQueen's own Heuer Monaco from the filming of 'Le Mans.' And that is not even all! Elizabeth Doerr shares 12 of the extremely entertaining highlights here.

Steve McQueen, The Set Of ‘Le Mans,’ And A Surprising Cartier Tank – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox But when Nick Dec 5, 2020

Steve McQueen, The Set Of ‘Le Mans,’ And A Surprising Cartier Tank – Reprise

In the 1968 film 'The Thomas Crown Affair,' Steve McQueen played the title character, a millionaire businessman and avid sportsman involved in a cat-and-mouse game with an insurance claims investigator played by Faye Dunaway. McQueen chose two of his personal watches to wear in the film: an elegant Cartier Tank Cintrée and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox. But when Nick Gould looked further into this, he discovered that contrary to popular opinion McQueen also surprisingly owned a Tank.

HANDS-ON: The Bremont Hawking in white gold is a brief history in time of its own Time+Tide
Bremont Hawking Dec 5, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Bremont Hawking in white gold is a brief history in time of its own

I got to wear this icon-inspired Bremont Hawking in white gold for a brief moment in time, which is particularly apt given its association with Stephen Hawking. Here’s my ten pennies’ worth on the watch. Truth be told, I am desperate for this watch not to disappoint because Hawking is a hero of mine I’d … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bremont Hawking in white gold is a brief history in time of its own appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 3 – David de Rothschild, British adventurer and climate change activist (also has quite the collection of Breitling timepieces) Time+Tide
Breitling timepieces Editor’s note Dec 2, 2020

11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 3 – David de Rothschild, British adventurer and climate change activist (also has quite the collection of Breitling timepieces)

Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. In this series ’11 Days of Londoners’, Mike will be sharing the stories of a few notable local collectors, starting on Day 1 with King Nerd, and with a stellar lineup still to come. … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 3 – David de Rothschild, British adventurer and climate change activist (also has quite the collection of Breitling timepieces) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baltic Introduces the HMS and Bicompax Perpétuel Editions SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Dec 2, 2020

Baltic Introduces the HMS and Bicompax Perpétuel Editions

A newly established specialist retailer in Dubai, Perpétuel is making its debut with the Baltic x Perpétuel HMS and Bicompax, a pair of watches conceived to mark the 49th National Day of the United Arab Emirates, which was formed in 1971, hence the 71-piece edition. Both are variations of the signature timepieces of Baltic, a French brand that got its start on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter and has since made accessibly priced, retro-style watches its specialty. The HMS Initial thoughts Baltic offers a strong value proposition with its vintage-inspired watches featuring stepped bezels and sector dials that are powered by Chinese movements, explaining the affordable pricing. The Perpétuel editions are novel. Although their Eastern Arabic numerals on the dial are common in watches for the Middle East, they are not often found in entry-level watches, especially those with retro designs. Combined with the forest-green dial colour, both models are very much catered to the culture of the Middle East. But they also have substantial appeal for anyone outside the region, thanks to the colour, smart design, and graceful style of the Eastern Arabic script. But the Perpétuel are pricey, being notably more expensive than the standard models. However, they are still affordable in absolute terms, and considering the small, 71-piece run, remain fair value for money. HMS and Bicompax Both the HMS and Bicompax share the same case dimensions of 38 mm by 12 mm. Matched with a domed Hes...

VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field Time+Tide
Longines Legend Diver Bronze Dec 2, 2020

VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field

The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a noteworthy remix. It takes the tried and true, double-crown, super compressor-style case of the original and breathes fresh life into it with the new material. The warmly toned bronze eliminates all of the conservative, vintage-inspired character of its steel sibling, and dramatically increases the level of rustic charm … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 01 Cyber Skull SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Dec 1, 2020

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 01 Cyber Skull

Bell & Ross’ signature BR wristwatch is essentially an aviation instrument in a square case, a style that works well as a military watch, explaining the iterations in camouflage or a fighter jet “heads-up display”. Sometimes associated with airborne troops, the skull is a recurring theme for the BR series, and one that has been continually refined over the last decade. The BR skull watch been redesigned both visually and mechanically, most notably with the proprietary, automaton-skull form movement of two years ago. With the new BR 01 Cyber Skull, the brand has taken a new aesthetic direction with a case and dial that is strikingly modern – polygonal, facetted, and very much like a sci-fi villain – making it vastly different from earlier skull watches that often seemed like nostalgic memento mori. Initial thoughts Bringing to mind Skynet and other technological villains, the Cyber Skull departs from the style of its predecessors that were characterised by an organic skull and elaborate case patterns, essentially a digitised version of the original BR Skull watch. Though simple, the design is done well, with a cohesive aesthetic with the case and dial echoing one another. The case is clearly derived from the original BR-01, but done with more facets and angles, with the polygonal surfaces continuing on the skull and crossbones. The BR 01 Laughing Skull White (left) and the BR 01 Cyber Skull Both the case and skull are made of black ceramic, while the movement ...

New: Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea – pushing the limits of the lume with Editorial Commentary Deployant
Linde Werdelin Dec 1, 2020

New: Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea – pushing the limits of the lume with Editorial Commentary

Linde Werdelin collaborates with James Thompson of Black Badger to explore what is possible with a lume dial with the new Oktopus Blue Sea. Press Release information with commentary in italics The Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea retails for SGD 21,451 inclusive of GST or GBP 12,000 exclusive of VAT. Commentary Interesting new application ofRead More

Philippe Dufour Announces a Lottery for the Simplicity 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
Nov 30, 2020

Philippe Dufour Announces a Lottery for the Simplicity 20th Anniversary

Soon after the very first of the Simplicity 20th Anniversary sold for a record US$1.51 million, Philippe Dufour revealed that Lebanese watch collector and gem merchant Claude Sfeir will now be his exclusive retailer worldwide. Historically selling direct to clients but also represented by a handful of retailers around the world, most notably Shellman in Tokyo, Mr Dufour has now streamlined his distribution. Having known Mr Dufour for some 40 years, Mr Sfeir will handle the sale of the 20 Simplicity 20th Anniversary watches, as well as whatever timepieces Mr Dufour may debut in the future. With Mr Dufour himself keeping the last of the 21 anniversary timepieces, the first 10 examples will be sold direct to clients. While not revealing the specifics of the allocation process, Mr Sfeir noted during a phone conversation he hoped to that the watches would be evenly distributed around the world. The last 10 watches will be allocated in a lottery that will take place in Switzerland. It will be a formal event, with a huissier de justice – an officer of the court in Switzerland – serving as a witness. According to Mr Sfeir, the restructuring of the distribution will not only help Mr Dufour build a more commercially sustainable business, but also ensure the Dufour brand name can continue into the next generation. Mr Sfeir also let on that Mr Dufour’s daughter, Daniela, is almost done with her watchmaking education. She will join Mr Dufour at the bench at the end of 2020, o...