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Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

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SpaceOne Introduces an Affordable Tellurium SJX Watches
Richard Mille Planetarium-Tellurium Apr 4, 2024

SpaceOne Introduces an Affordable Tellurium

Founded last year by a pair of Frenchmen, entrepreneur Guillaume Laidet and independent watchmaker Theo Auffret, SpaceOne fashions itself as a maker of modular complications assembled in Paris that are make accessible thanks to Swiss movements and external components sourced elsewhere. Its second creation, the Tellurium, is an affordable – but heavily simplified – heliocentric tellurium watch priced at just €2,999, or about US$3,250. Initial thoughts A tellurium is a kind of orrery, a mechanical model of the solar system, which shows the planets’ positions relative to the Sun. Traditional orrery are kinetic sculptures driven by complex gearings and usually large format, desk clock size or larger. The Richard Mille Planetarium-Tellurium of 2007, for instance, was the size of a small table. There have been wristwatch-size versions of orrery, most famously Ulysse Nardin’s pair of the Tellurium Johannes Kepler and Planetarium Copernicus, which were faithful miniaturisation of orreries and conceived with scientific accuracy in mind but were priced accordingly. The SpaceOne Tellurium is a heavily diluted of the same. It shows only the Sun, Earth and Moon, each with minimal motion. The Earth, for instance, does not rotate on its own axis. Rather than being a miniaturised true orrery, this is an heavily simplified representation presented with sci-fi style. This simplified approach brings with it the inconvenience of a non quickset calendar. So setting the calendar from...

Introducing a More Compact Version of Doxa’s Iconic Diver: the Sub 200T Worn & Wound
Doxa s Iconic Diver Apr 3, 2024

Introducing a More Compact Version of Doxa’s Iconic Diver: the Sub 200T

The word “cult” gets thrown around a lot when discussing Doxa. Their dive watches have a decidedly niche appeal and fans of the brand really love them in a way that sometimes goes beyond casual appreciation. This is a fundamentally good thing for the community whether you’re part of the Doxa cult or not, as inevitably some of that enthusiasm and goodwill spills over into the rest of the hobby. What’s interesting though is that as time passes and Doxa grows, the cult objects have become more mainstream. That’s exemplified perfectly in the new Sub 200T, a more accessible version of the brand’s signature (and perhaps strangest) watch.  The Sub 200T is one of those watches that, once you see it, you’re kind of surprised hadn’t existed until now. The Sub 200T takes the signature case lines and design language of the Sub 300 and shrinks everything down into a more wearable, casual, package. We get the same cushion style case, multi-scale bezel, small dial opening, and even the beads of rice bracelet in a footprint measuring 39mm in diameter and 41.5mm lug to lug (and 10.7mm tall). That’s down from 42.5mm in the Sub 300, so there should be a meaningful difference in how these watches wear.  Beyond the smaller package, Doxa is seemingly trying to cast a wider net in who this watch appeals to by going absolutely full tilt on color options. You can have the Sub 200T in any signature Doxa color you like, plus a new dark green option they’ve dubbed Sea Emerald. A...

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Styles the MB&F; M.A.D. 1 SJX Watches
MB&F; Apr 3, 2024

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Styles the MB&F; M.A.D. 1

The first limited edition from MB&F;’s affordable sub-brand is the M.A.D.1 “Time to Love”, created in collaboration with French fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, also known as JC/DC. A variant of the standard model endowed with Mr de Castelbajac’s touch – including numerals in his handwriting – the M.A.D.1 “Time to Love” is a 999-piece edition that will be sold via an online raffle. A designer whose heyday in the 1970s and 1980s saw him collaborate with brands like from Swatch and design a coat made of teddy bears for Madonna, Mr de Castelbajac was most recently artistic director for Benetton. The M.A.D.1 “Time to Love” reflects his trademark colourful and whimsical style. Initial thoughts Conceptually and aesthetically, the M.A.D.1 “Time to Love” makes sense. Mr de Castelbajac’s style complements M.A.D. Editions’s affordable, fun brand of watchmaking, making this the most interesting M.A.D.1 edition to date. The fact that it’s a relatively small run of 999 pieces and priced almost the same as the regular version enhances the appeal. More broadly, the collaboration also chimes with parent brand MB&F;’s retro-nostalgia philosophy, where many of its creations are inspired by founder Maximilian Büsser’s youth. According to the brand, “the young Maximilian Büsser was a huge fan, saving up his pocket money for one of the designer’s bathing suits featuring pandas on it”, when Mr de Castelbajac’s brand was at its peak in the ...

S.U.F Helsinki Introduces the “Moomin” Diver SJX Watches
Apr 3, 2024

S.U.F Helsinki Introduces the “Moomin” Diver

A bestselling franchise launched two years ago, S.U.F. Helsinki’s latest Moomin edition is the Moomin Diver. Based on the brand’s Vetehinen diver, the Moomin diver features an illustration from Moomin and the Comet that depicts the titular character diving. As with past Moomin editions, the diver features a laser-engraved and hand finished dial with lots of Super-Luminova. Initial thoughts The Moomin watches by S.U.F., the affordable sub-brand of Sarpaneva, are fun value propositions that offer a good quality of dial and case work for the price. This is typical of S.U.F. as well as Sarpaneva in their respective price segments. Priced similarly to the very first model at €5,550, the latest edition continues that while introducing a new dial motif. This is a timely change since the original dial design had already been repeated several times, including on the pricier, full-fledged Sarpaneva version. While the latest edition doesn’t have the same level of detail on the dial – it’s mostly engraved as opposed to being substantially open worked – it brings a new look with the dive watch aesthetic. Though the Moomin editions have been repeated several times, perhaps too often, this is an appealing new launch considering the price-performance ratio and relatively small edition size of 52 watches across two dial types. Diving-themed diver’s watch The new diver features a steel dial that reproduces a drawing from Moomin and the Comet, one of the many Moomin books pen...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Apr 2, 2024

Time to Pack: What’s In My Watches & Wonders Photography Bag

Once again we are heading to the biggest watch event of the year, Watches & Wonders. Today our Head of Content, Kat Shoulders, goes through what’s going to be in her photography carry kit during the exhibition. Nailing down the perfect bag for these trips can be grueling as we are constantly on the go and need a quick and light kit to keep things moving.  This episode was made possible by our friends at Nomatic. They have graciously lent Kat the new Luma Camera Pack 18L for her travels during Watches & Wonders. If you’ve listened to Kat’s podcast Changing Gears or watched previous episodes of Time to Pack, you know Kat’s been a long time fan of Nomatic. The new Luma collection is both stylish AND functional and keeps all the favorite bits everyone has come to love from Nomatic’s photography line. Get all the details on Kat’s packing style and her professional tools, along with her very own gear hacks and tricks of the trade. We hope that Time to Pack will continue to be that kind of content you didn’t even know you needed-watch-based content that delves into travel gear and packing in rich and robust ways. Enjoy! The post Time to Pack: What’s In My Watches & Wonders Photography Bag appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Divetrack SJX Watches
Rolex Deepsea Challenge Apr 2, 2024

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Divetrack

As a sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, the “restomod” outfit specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined naturally got its start with auto-racing inspired chronographs, namely the Track 1. Now the brand has pivoted and debuted its first diving watch, the Divetrack Chronograph. Decidedly oversized – the diameter is 49 mm – the Divetrack has the aesthetics of a dive timer, but also the functionality thanks to a clever case and dial construction. And like the Track 1, the Divetrack is powered by the smart AgenGraphe movement that consolidates all of the chronograph indicators onto the central axis. Initial thoughts Oversized dive watches are cool. Watch nerds appreciate them for the technology, design, and function even if no one really uses them for the intended purpose. This applies to the Seiko Tuna, Rolex Deepsea Challenge, and now the Divetrack. At 49 mm in diameter and almost 20 mm high, the Divetrack is unabashedly oversized. It has an appealing instrument-like design along with a clever decompression scale on the dial. And the Agenhor movement inside ranks amongst the most inventive chronograph movements on the market. But the Divetrack is priced at CHF85,000, which is surprisingly high. In comparison, the Track 1 in titanium or aluminium costs about CHF50,000. The number is difficult to justify regardless of how you slice it. Although the movement has been modified for a 24-hour counter, the modification isn’t a major one. Still, the small edition ...

Brew’s Metric Chronograph is Now Available in Titanium Worn & Wound
Brew s Metric Chronograph Mar 29, 2024

Brew’s Metric Chronograph is Now Available in Titanium

Brew’s Metric line continues to grow, with the introduction of the first version of the Meca-Quartz chronograph in titanium. The Metric, as we’ve seen through several earlier iterations, has proven to be a fantastic canvas for Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer’s design chops, and now the watch takes on another slightly different shape (not literally, it’s the same 36mm case) in a new metal. This marks Brew’s first use of titanium, so they’re breaking the dam a bit here, and we can’t help but wonder what might be coming in our favorite lightweight metal.  But let’s not get too far ahead of ourselves. The new titanium Metric has a subdued black dial with red accents that complement the utilitarian vibe of a titanium sports watch. The overall feeling you get here is one of a certain tactical sensibility, rather than the colorful playground of the earliest Metrics. The subdials are recessed for an added sense of depth, and the word “Titanium” appears, curved over the 6:00 subdial, proudly announcing the use of a new material.  Brew has gone with a simple brushed finish for the case and bracelet of the titanium Metric, which makes a lot of sense for a few reasons. First, this kind of presentation will just always work with titanium, which has an inherently sporty quality to it. Second, it surely keeps costs down. Somehow, the titanium version of the Metric is only priced at only a small premium over the stainless steel versions, coming in at $495. That’s a pr...

Just A Minute With The Citizen Aqualand Worn & Wound
Citizen Aqualand “Just Mar 29, 2024

Just A Minute With The Citizen Aqualand

“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. It’s not often you get the chance to own an innovative and iconic dive watch, but the Citizen Promaster Aqualand is exactly that. True to its original 1985 design, the modern Aqualand retains its hybrid analog digital display and pressure gauge, design cues that have withstood the test of time and make for an eminently capable dive watch to this day. Thanks to its depth meter and alarm/stopwatch functionality, the Aqualand is the same cool dive watch it was in the mid-1980s. Get the inside scoop by watching our video on the Promaster Aqualand below. “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. It’s not often you get the chance to ow...

Introducing – The New Chronoswiss Strike Two Series with Horizontal Regulator Layout Monochrome
Chronoswiss Mar 28, 2024

Introducing – The New Chronoswiss Strike Two Series with Horizontal Regulator Layout

The allure of contemporary Chronoswiss designs is palpable to watch enthusiasts, as evidenced by the plethora of limited-edition models marked as sold out in the company’s online catalogue, which offers both cutting-edge models and classic designs in peaceful coexistence. The new Strike Two series unveils yet another bridge between the brand’s esteemed past, exemplified by […]

Bear Essentials: The Enduring Panda-Dial Chronograph Fratello
Mar 28, 2024

Bear Essentials: The Enduring Panda-Dial Chronograph

The style and fashion trends of the 1960s can mostly only be described as regrettable in these times of image consciousness and scrutiny on social media. Fashion faux pas like bell-bottomed trousers, tie-dye, and platform shoes have caused more than a slight blush to the cheeks of those who championed them back in the Swinging […] Visit Bear Essentials: The Enduring Panda-Dial Chronograph to read the full article.

Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me: Spec Snobbery Worn & Wound
Mar 27, 2024

Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me: Spec Snobbery

If I were to make a gross oversimplification of watches, I’d say they are about three things: provenance, design and specs. The first two are relatively straightforward: Who made a watch, and what does it look like? There are endless rabbit holes to go down with each, and fellow enthusiasts welcome anyone looking to join the conversations. That’s good news for those of us that long ago lost the privilege to ramble about Hans Wilsdorf at the dinner table, and have a limited number of times we can say “concentric circles” before our non-watch friends tune out. But in my initial years of collecting, I shied away from conversations of provenance and design, instead favoring talk of specs. Above all else, specs were what sold me. It’s a trend I’ve noticed fellow enthusiasts follow, which makes sense. Specs are tangible. They are indisputable facts on paper that immediately give an idea of how a watch will wear based on its dimensions, what its beat rate will be, how much abuse its crystal can take, and at what unnecessary depth of water it could out-live its wearer. With some welcome influence from my favorite YouTube reviewers, it was easy as a new collector to discern what specs were considered acceptable by the larger enthusiast community. While we may never agree on which case diameter constitutes the ideal “sweet spot” (but we all know it’s 36-38mm) or what movement is best, one specification seemed to have near universal support in the comment sections: ...

Five Excellent Vintage-Inspired Watches For Modern Collectors Worn & Wound
Mar 27, 2024

Five Excellent Vintage-Inspired Watches For Modern Collectors

It’s hard to overstate the role vintage watches have played in the rise of watch enthusiasm over the last few years. Watch brands continue to tap into their archives as they reimagine yesterday’s hits with today’s modern technology. That combination of classic design with robust engineering is one of the reasons retro-inspired watches continue to be so popular, and today we take a look at five examples of vintage-inspired watches done right. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. It’s hard to overstate the role vintage watches have played in the rise of watch enthusiasm over the last few years. Watch brands continue to tap into their archives as they reimagine yesterday’s hits with today’s modern technology. That combination of classic design with robust engineering is one of the reasons retro-inspired watches continue to be so popular, and today we take a look at five examples of vintage-inspired watches done right. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. The post Five Excellent Vintage-Inspired Watches For Modern Collectors appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Citizen Expands their Series 8 Collection with Three New References, Including a Cherry Blossom Inspired Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Citizen Expands their Series 8 Mar 27, 2024

Citizen Expands their Series 8 Collection with Three New References, Including a Cherry Blossom Inspired Limited Edition

Last week, we told you about new offerings from Citizen in their high end “The Citizen” collection, which can be thought of, I think, as the brand at its most refined. These are the watches where no expense is spared, and they make full use of the craft techniques available to them and some pretty impressive high accuracy quartz timekeeping. Right on the heels of those Washi paper dialed releases, Citizen has also expanded their Series 8 collection, which is perhaps a more familiar expression of what Citizen has always done really well to the typical enthusiast. These are integrated bracelet sports watches that borrow from the past (as all integrated bracelet sports watches do), while still feeling quite contemporary with a modern footprint, interesting dial designs, and the specs you’d expect in a modern sports watch.  Two of the new Series 8 890 watches seen here feature the same checkered pattern (inspired by the Tokyo skyline) that Citizen used on the previous 880 series watches that were introduced last year, but they’ve taken steps to make the pattern appear bolder in these new releases. From the images provided, it does indeed appear to be a deeper and more pronounced stamping, which should make for a dynamic experience on the wrist as the dial plays with ambient light.  A third watch, limited to 1700 pieces, has a new dial execution in what Citizen calls a “copper pink” color, and is inspired by cherry blossoms in bloom. Like the ocean and mountain vi...

Depancel Adds New Watches to the Allure Line Worn & Wound
Mar 25, 2024

Depancel Adds New Watches to the Allure Line

Depancel’s racing-inspired design DNA is all over the French brand’s new Allure Automatic Chronograph 43mm. “As an engineer, I have always been fascinated by the beauty of mechanics, passionate about cars and watches,” said Clément Meynier, founder of Depancel. There are the obvious components–it is a chronograph, after all, meant to help drivers time their cars and calculate speed with the handy tachymeter. But Depancel sneaks in subtler cues as well. The Allure Automatic Chronograph features a textured dial meant to evoke the grille of a car, pushers meant to evoke pistons, and a crown meant to evoke a radiator cap. It’s not just a watch for racing–it’s a watch for racing enthusiasts, hoping to transport fans “to an era where chronographs were more than simple measuring instruments for race car drivers, they were loyal companions.” The Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph 43mm is available in two colorways: a blue dial and a silver dial, both using orange as a secondary highlight color. Adding some further color options to the mix, it can be paired with a black, brown, or blue leather strap with orange stitching or a metal bracelet. On the leather straps, a one-off red, white, and blue stitch near the upper lugs pays subtle homage to the flag of France. With a non-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal and 100m of water resistance, the Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph 43mm is durable, robust, and in a definitively contemporary case size.  ...

Monday Morning On Earth With The Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer Fratello
Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer Let’s Mar 25, 2024

Monday Morning On Earth With The Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer

Let’s first make things very clear: the Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer was never meant to be on the wrists of pioneering astronauts traveling to the Red Planet. Instead, this latest X-33 was designed to be on the wrists of people working in mission control here on Earth. Still, this quartz creation does make you wonder […] Visit Monday Morning On Earth With The Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer to read the full article.

Masterpieces from the Met for the Wrist by Vacheron Constantin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Having announced Mar 25, 2024

Masterpieces from the Met for the Wrist by Vacheron Constantin

Having announced a partnership with The Metropolitan Museum of Art last year, Vacheron Constantin has just launched Masterpiece on Your Wrist, a programme that offers the opportunity to commission timepieces featuring enamel dials that replicate select artworks from the Met’s collection in a wristwatch created by Les Cabinotiers, the watchmaker’s workshop for custom and bespoke watches. A client could commission Vincent van Gogh’s Wheat Field with Cypresses as a minute repeater for instance. Naturally, clients who commission such a timepiece will receive more than a watch. The process includes a private tour of the Met and a visit to Vacheron Constantin’s Geneva manufacture. Wheat Field with Cypresses Initial thoughts Geneva’s important watchmakers, namely Vacheron Constantin and its crosstown rival, have long reproduced important works of art on wrist (or pocket) watch dials. In the late 20th century, Suzanne Rohr famously replicated various classical European artworks in miniature enamel. And more recently, Anita Porchet recreated Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring on the monumental Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie commissioned by a noted Asian collector. Masterpiece on Your Wrist is a continuation and formalisation of that historical practice that also allows privileged access to one of the world’s most noted museums. For an art lover, this is quite the opportunity. Bridge over a Pond of Water Lilies by Claude Monet Granted, most of the artworks in th...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Next James Bond, Hermès Sued by California Shoppers, and the First Espresso in Space Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Under 38mm Mar 23, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Next James Bond, Hermès Sued by California Shoppers, and the First Espresso in Space

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Grand Seikos Under 38mm with Mark Cho  It’s no secret that we’re huge fans of Grand Seiko here at Worn & Wound, and as true enthusiasts for the brand, we feel like we can say with confidence that there are few in our space who are better advocates for Grand Seiko than Mark Cho. Cho has been retailing Grand Seiko through The Armoury for years, and has a great understanding of what makes these watches. He’s particularly enthusiastic about Grand Seiko’s more classic designs, inspired by vintage references and conservatively sized. In this video which went live recently on the Armoury’s YouTube channel, Cho takes us through as many “small” Grand Seikos as he can get his hand on, and reminds us that sometimes the best things really do come in small packages.  The First Espresso in Space   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by BREW WATCHES (@brewwatches) This one’s been shared around quite a bit already in the last week, but just in case you haven’t heard about what Brew recently got up to (way, way up) we thought we’d share it here as well. The Brew team rece...

Just A Minute With The New ADPT GMTs Worn & Wound
Seiko NH34 movement Mar 22, 2024

Just A Minute With The New ADPT GMTs

“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. Today’s edition of Just A Minute is all about a watch that has undergone a significant evolution to become what it is today. ADPT (All Day, Purpose, or Terrain) has followed up its acclaimed Series 1 watches from two years ago with the all-new Series 1 Dual-Time. Thanks to the long-anticipated Seiko NH34 movement, the ADPT Dual-Time is an encore of all the ruggedness and durability of the first series but with the added functionality of an independent 24-hour hand and bezel. It is available in two earthy flavors, Aqua Berry and Mossy Shale, and we can’t wait to see it reach every corner of the globe on your adventures. To learn more, check out the video we’ve made below. “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is...

Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Review Teddy Baldassarre
Glashutte Original Mar 22, 2024

Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Review

Founded in 1994 in the wake of German reunification, but with roots tracing back all the way back to 1845, Glashütte Original has become firmly established as one of the world’s premier luxury watchmakers, one of the vanguard of firms that have put the little town of Glashütte, in the eastern state of Saxony, back on the map of world-class horological hubs after decades of postwar dormancy. In 2003, Glashütte Original introduced the first PanoMaticLunar, a handsome moon-phase timepiece that was notable for its delicately balanced array of indications, assembled on the principle of the Golden Ratio, and which today stands as one of the pillars of the diverse PanoMatic collection. In 2022, Glashütte Original released a crowd-pleasing version of the PanoMaticLunar in a striking, dark green dial and stainless steel case, which quickly and easily became the standout model in the Lunar family. I had the chance to get my hands on the watch recently for a full-on review, which follows below.  The Case: The soft, round PanoMaticLunar case measures 40mm in diameter and a substantial but not unwieldy 12.7mm in thickness, Its thin sloping bezel has a gleaming, polished finish, while the case middle sports a hairline brushed pattern on its surfaces. The sharply curving lugs continue the theme, with a mirror polish on their top surfaces and vertical brushing on the sides and bottom. The caseback, attached by five sunken screws, has a slight convex curve that helps the watch...

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 5 - Featuring Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor, And More Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Tudor Mar 22, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 5 - Featuring Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! Today, we continue our quest to find more great pre-owned picks you might love. This is the fifth article with a selection of watches that deserve your attention. As always, we try to find the best pre-owned watches from bigger and smaller brands. They can be vintage, neo-vintage, or modern. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 5 - Featuring Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor, And More to read the full article.

Five Great Titanium Sports Watches Under $5,000 Worn & Wound
Rolex Mar 21, 2024

Five Great Titanium Sports Watches Under $5,000

Sports watches have been produced primarily in stainless steel throughout their history, with the occasional special release of precious metal variants. Recently though, titanium has taken the spotlight as an improved alternative to even high-end stainless steel alloys like 904L used by Rolex. Titanium is touted as lighter, stronger, more corrosion and scratch resistant – but is it aesthetically as attractive as stainless steel? This would depend on personal taste, and it would also come down to many aspects that can only be judged from a watchmaker’s viewpoint. Some watch brands, and specific models of watches from these brands, are going to vary greatly in the quality of titanium they choose and the level of detail and craftsmanship they’re going to dedicate to a titanium sports watch variant. It is indeed possible to make a titanium watch a work of art in its own right in comparison to stainless steel, but it will always have a darker more tool-like luster to it than our favourite tried and true metal. Titanium is also harder to work with, and requires more time and precision to shape into a watch case, bracelet, or even a small part like the crown – with these challenges comes the average watch collector’s largest obstacle: an increased price point.  Someday, if it’s lucky, this titanium could become a watch There’s a few common grades of titanium watchmakers have been working with, with Rolex always setting the premium standard and using a special alloy...

The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Le Régulateur Tourbillon, Now in Black Worn & Wound
Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Le Mar 21, 2024

The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Le Régulateur Tourbillon, Now in Black

Years from now, someone will look back on this period and write about rise of affordable independent watchmaking. We are truly in a golden age if you happen to favor small brands who are inclined to do adventurous, experimental things. I wonder if anyone will identify Louis Erard’s collaborations with Alain Silberstein as a defining moment in this era of watch enthusiasm. From my perspective, it certainly seems like this relatively small Swiss brand and niche designer (who many thought, mistakenly, had reached a peak in terms of his popularity and influence) stand at the center of a lot of what’s happening in our world today. Limited edition collaborations, the mixing of the high and low, and a focus on accessible watches that are still undeniably special in some way are a huge focus of what’s driving interest in the hobby right now, and while Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein didn’t get there first, it’s hard to deny that their continued relationship isn’t one of the key stories of the last several years.  That relationship continues this week with the launch of the Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Black. This is the same tourbillon that we saw as part of a limited edition triptych back in October of last year. That watch, and the others in the set, featured an olive green dial, and it was notable that the tourbillon could only be purchased as part of the set, while the other watches were available separately. At the time, the thinkin...

Assouline Updates their Massive Rolex Coffee Table Book Worn & Wound
Rolex Coffee Table Book Assouline Mar 21, 2024

Assouline Updates their Massive Rolex Coffee Table Book

Assouline is known as a brand that reflects the finer things in life. As a standard-bearer of fine art, culture, and lifestyle, Assouline has solidified its reputation as a premier publisher synonymous with sophistication. Wherever the haute monde is, Assouline is sure to follow with one of their well-designed, beautifully curated coffee table books. Their latest edition, Rolex: The Impossible Collection, 2nd Edition is an especially exciting release for the horologically-inclined, focusing on the one-hundred watches that define the brand’s legacy and rich history. Within the pages of The Impossible Collection, readers will get a chance to explore the various ways in which Rolex has entered the cultural consciousness. From the first wristwatch dating to the early 1900s and the first Oyster Perpetual from 1931, to an Explorer worn during Sir Edmund Hillary’s expedition to the summit of Mount Everest in 1953 and the Submariner worn by actor George Lazenby in the James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, this book acts as a reflection of a brand which has stood at the cross-section of adventure, style, and sportsmanship. For the casual collector to the fanatics among us, Assouline’s attention to detail and design in The Impossible Collection will inspire readers while making a handsome companion for your library. Every page is carefully designed to elevate the reading experience, while leaving the page clean and uncluttered, so every watch has room to shine. Ro...

Ollech & Wajs Rallychron Pays Tribute To Iconic Race Tracks Two Broke Watch Snobs
Mar 20, 2024

Ollech & Wajs Rallychron Pays Tribute To Iconic Race Tracks

A new addition to their growing catalog, Ollech & Wajs has just announced an interesting new Valjoux 7753-powered chronograph. While many of their prior designs we've covered are thoroughly aviation-inspired, this new model exudes serious racing DNA to pay tribute to some of the earliest days of motor racing. Now, I've never been one for motorsports, and I'm definitely more into Ollech & Wajs designs like the reference 2834 24 Hour “Early Bird” GMT, but this new Rallychron is undoubtedly handsome. And, if you are into the whole racing thing, there are some little easter eggs built into the watch's design that you'll probably appreciate.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Guide Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Mar 19, 2024

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Guide

The TAG Heuer Carrera is widely regarded as one of the OGs of racing-inspired chronograph wristwatches, and today - decades after both the model and the deadly road race that gave it its name appeared to have been permanently discontinued - it claims a spot atop the leaderboard in the Swiss watchmaker's modern collection. Here's how the Carrera raced to worldwide acclaim, upgraded its engines along the way, and roared back from the Quartz Crisis to engage and energize a new generation of watch enthusiasts. The company we now know as TAG Heuer traces its history to 1860 and its founder Edouard Heuer; “TAG” would be added to the family business’s name in 1985, when the Techniques d’Avant Garde (TAG) Group obtained a majority share. From its beginnings, the company placed an emphasis on sports timing and on optimizing the precision of the hand-held and dashboard-mounted chronograph timepieces that were its specialty. Edouard Heuer’s most significant contribution to timekeeping was the oscillating pinion, patented in 1887. This device, which simplified the construction of chronograph calibers by decoupling the stopwatch mechanism from the timekeeping function, is still used commonly in movements today. In 1911, Heuer developed what is regarded as the first dashboard chronograph for cars and aircraft, the “Time of Trip,” and in 1914 released its first wrist-mounted chronograph (which, like many of its contemporaries, was a repurposed pocket watch with its sin...

Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition by Simon Brette: Sensational, Superlative, and Simply Sublime Independent Watchmaking Quill & Pad
MB&F; Mar 17, 2024

Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition by Simon Brette: Sensational, Superlative, and Simply Sublime Independent Watchmaking

Simon Brette is a young movement designer with a history of working with Jean-François Mojon’s Chronode, MCT, and MB&F;, who has now begun his own adventure of pushing the boundaries of traditional haute horlogerie. Brette launches his eponymous brand with the Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition, which sold out long before launch.