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Business News: Swatch Groups Profit Sinks and Inventories Grow SJX Watches
Blancpain stand out Jul 16, 2024

Business News: Swatch Groups Profit Sinks and Inventories Grow

The owner of brands like Omega and Longines, the Swatch Group just announced its results for the first half of 2024. The half-year numbers crystallised a slowdown that the watch industry has felt since late 2023. Revenue was down 14.3% to CHF3.44 billion, while operating profit plunged 70% to just CHF204 million, giving the group an operating margin of just 5.9%, compared to 17.1% from a year earlier. According to Swatch, the fall in revenue was “triggered by the sharp drop in demand for luxury goods in China (including Hong Kong SAR and Macau SAR)”. At the same time, wholesale sales fell over 10%, indicating that third-party retailers are ordering less watches from the group’s brands, which in turn indicates the retailers’ pessimism for the short- and medium term. Swatch also explained the poor results by noting the group did not “make any redundancies… [and] maintaining all production capacities and not laying off qualified staff”. This was done so that “the Group [will] recover more quickly and benefit more significantly from the next upswing.” The progressively weakening positions of each of the group’s brands relative to the competition – marques like Breguet and Blancpain stand out in this regard – imply this might be overoptimistic. Notably, Swatch stated “the Swatch brand bucked the negative trend” thanks to the bestselling MoonSwatch, but this was not (and will not) be sufficient to help the rest of the group given the low value of Swat...

Hands-On: the Zelos Spearfish Dual Time Worn & Wound
May 6, 2024

Hands-On: the Zelos Spearfish Dual Time

If a tide pool at a waterpark represented the world of micro/independent watches, some brands would be the kids who sit at the edge, waiting for a wave to bowl them over, others would be the dad that overcompensates by proving he can swim all the way out to the source only before losing his trunks, and then there’s Zelos…the person who showed up in their custom Speedo and polarized purple goggles doing laps around the perimeter. If you want a quality diver, finished brilliantly, made with interesting materials, eye-popping dials, all for around $500, Zelos has you covered. However, there is another Zelos. One that lights up a cigar, slips out of their lounge sandals, and makes their way into a meticulously curated tranquility pool…but still with the purple polarized goggles. This Zelos comes around a couple times a year, playing with high-end Swiss movements and interesting complications.  The first “tranquility pool” Zelos of the year recently hit the market. They took the case from their popular Spearfish line and released the Spearfish Dual Time. Three of the five watches in the line are made of titanium and come on titanium bracelets; the remaining two have cases made from forged carbon and come on a canvas leather strap. I had the pleasure of trying out the Moonscape forged carbon model for a little over a week, and while I do have some complicated thoughts on the model itself, what is indisputable is that you’re getting lavish materials and an elaborate ...

Hands-On: the UBIQ DUAL Series 01 Worn & Wound
Feb 28, 2024

Hands-On: the UBIQ DUAL Series 01

Making judgments off photos alone is a necessity in the world of microbrands, a subset of watches often sold exclusively online. Unless you are lucky enough to attend an event such as Windup Watch Fair, purchasing a microbrand usually requires some educated guessing based on pictures and dimensions, and then praying you like the watch once it arrives at your doorstep, long after your money has left your bank account.  Forming opinions without seeing a watch in the metal as I had many times before, I made up my mind weeks ago that the DUAL Series 01 from UBIQ was a watch I would love to own. With an impressive 200 meters of water resistance and a sapphire crystal, it had the specs enthusiasts such as myself want. Featuring a 39mm diameter and 47mm lug to lug case, I knew it would be comfortable. And, drawn in by the photos of captivatingly colorful dials and bezels, I was confident it would be a playful addition to my collection of mostly bland dive watches. After spending some time with the DUAL Series 01, I can confirm it is indeed a well-built, vibrant tool watch prepared to add spice to any collection. However, I am also walking away with a reminder that pictures alone fail to capture the entire story. $649 Hands-On: the UBIQ DUAL Series 01 Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Rubber or bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 39 x 47mm Thickness 11.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $649 Maybe i...

Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet ref 5516 which was Feb 27, 2024

Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today

As we approach the leap day of February 29, the unofficial day of commemoration for perpetual calendar owners, it’s worth considering the technical advances in perpetual calendar movements of the past 20 years. The perpetual calendar is, and has always been, a staple of haute horlogerie. But for most of its history, the technology remained largely stagnant. It wasn’t until the beginning of the modern era, in the 1980s when Swiss watchmaking was regrouping after the Quartz Crisis, that a new generation of watchmakers revisited this complication in earnest. In particular, they sought to address fundamental weaknesses in the way traditional perpetual calendar designs switch from one date to the next. The quintessential perpetual calendar layout, here in the first serially-produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with a leap year indicator, the Audemars Piguet ref. 5516, which was produced in the late 1950s One of the more recent – and most notable – efforts at reimagining the complication came from Stephen McDonnell, who developed the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual. According to Mr McDonnell, the traditional approach to the perpetual calendar was a flawed premise. “For decades in the Swiss watch industry, and even until the present day, it has been accepted and expected that [perpetual calendar] watches would often be damaged by owners while trying to correct them,” explains Mr McDonnell, “This was seen simply as an unavoidable factor of [perpetual calendar] owner...

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Dato Gets a Glassbox Update and a Bright Teal Dial Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer s Carrera Dato Gets Jan 30, 2024

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Dato Gets a Glassbox Update and a Bright Teal Dial

Last year was the year of the Glassbox for TAG Heuer, and in 2024 they’ve picked up nearly where they left off in what many will agree is their key LVMH Watch Week release. The twist with the latest Carrera in the Glassbox form factor (with that gorgeous domed crystal) is that this one comes in the cult classic “Dato” format, with an uncommon date window at the 9:00 position and a sole 30 minute counter at 3:00. It’s immediately recognizable, particularly in the bold teal colorway TAG has chosen for this release.  The latest Carrera cements the Glassbox style by extending into yet another segment of the long history of TAG’s most elegant racing chronograph. Just in the last year, we’ve seen Glassbox designs in the unusual 12:00 date Carrera, a reissue of the popular Skipper, and a completely new Porsche collaboration with one of the most unusual chrono movements we’ve seen. Now we get a Dato version, giving another old favorite a new look. Note that in addition to the dramatic color, the dial also features an unusual circular brushed finish that we imagine will give this Dato a dynamism in the light that isn’t easily captured in photos.  The teal Dato comes in a case measuring 39mm in diameter and 13.86mm tall. That might seem to be on the tall side, but the Glassbox design, with its prominent crystal and the outer flange on the dial, makes everything feel just a little more compact. The design of the crystal, and the way the flange fills it, also helps l...

Laco Introduces the Atacama Quartz UTC, a True Tool No Matter How You Slice It Worn & Wound
Laco Introduces Sep 6, 2023

Laco Introduces the Atacama Quartz UTC, a True Tool No Matter How You Slice It

Doomsday preppers and the most hardcore of watch collectors are in for a real treat. German watch manufacturer Laco is doubling down on the success of its Atacama.2 by introducing the Atacama Quarz UTC. It’s a more affordable and focused watch with a new trick up its sleeve: GMT functionality. Primarily known for their excellent pilot watches, Laco has collaborated closely with German soldiers, firefighters, and other action-oriented professionals to hone their “Squad and Sport” timepieces. It only takes a glance to understand. You can learn a lot about this watch in its name. It’s still an Atacama, which means it shares the same PVD-coated treatment, date complication, rubber strap, unidirectional bezel, and matte dial as the Atacama.2. But now it’s powered by quartz, “Quarz” in German, and features an independent GMT – or UTC – hand. The new watch is 46mm in diameter, but the Ronda 515 GMT quartz movement inside has enabled Laco to slim the watch down to 10.5mm with a “contact area” of just 34mm. This is also in part due to the conical shape of the case, allowing the watch to feel much smaller and comfortable on the wrist than its maximum diameter may suggest. The use of black PVD-coating and generous amounts of lume on the hands, dial, and bezel result in a watch that is supremely legible to its wearer while remaining subdued to would-be onlookers (or enemies). The crown at twelve o-clock is integrated into and protected by the articulating lugs. D...

Alpina Releases a Surprising Limited Edition for a Big Anniversary in the Heritage Carrée Mechanical Worn & Wound
Alpina Releases Jun 23, 2023

Alpina Releases a Surprising Limited Edition for a Big Anniversary in the Heritage Carrée Mechanical

Alpina is celebrating their 140th anniversary this year, and the brand that refers to themselves as the inventors of the sports watch have released a rather surprising limited edition to celebrate the occasion. Most recent Alpinas are very much in that very specific sport and adventure watch genre, and fit a familiar profile with modern sensibilities and a design language that speaks to their overall ruggedness. The new limited edition is cut from a very different cloth, and communes directly with the brand’s long history through the components of the watch itself. Using recently discovered and expertly restored vintage movements from the Alpina archives, the Alpiner Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years is partially a history lesson, but also an example of a creative way to pay respect to the past.  This one starts with the movement. The Calibre 490 running inside the Heritage Carrée Mechanical was originally produced in 1938. A total of 28 vintage movements were recently uncovered by Alpina, and have been fully restored to function as they were originally intended when they came off the production line 85 years ago. The rectangular movements were not just ordinary, run of the mill calibers for Alpina at the time, but incorporated new features like a crown assembly that was patented to protect against the intrusion of dust into the case, and robust construction that would predict Alpina’s focus on sports watches in the years to come. The manually wound caliber beats...

Arken Introduces their Second Act with the Dual-Time Equipped Alterum Worn & Wound
Jun 1, 2023

Arken Introduces their Second Act with the Dual-Time Equipped Alterum

There was a time a couple years back when the integrated steel sport watch craze had hit peak levels. Seemingly everywhere you looked, each brand had their very own version of an integrated system. For Arken to make their debut in a completely saturated environment with an  integrated sports watch of their own was pretty gutsy, but the Instrumentum wasn’t your typical integrated arrangement. On paper, the diver had one welcome surprise after another: a Grade 2 titanium build overlaid with hardness coating, a depth rating of 300 meters, and a startling $500 pre-order price tag. After you account for its strikingly fierce aesthetic on wrist, Arken’s inaugural timepiece offered up an incredible value proposition that was impossible to ignore. Fast forward to the present day, we find ourselves smack dab in the middle of 2023 and yet another industry trend, otherwise known (and self-proclaimed) as the Year of the GMT. Although the industry got off to a scorching hot start with an array of GMT watches released in all sorts of styles, prices, and various movements at the beginning of the year, it has quieted down a bit, even with Watches & Wonders in our rearview mirror. That is until now, because Arken has returned for their second act with a titanium dual-time travel watch they’re throwing into the GMT ring called the Alterum. At first glance, the Alterum is more refined in nature, but its core design language remains. With the aggressively-styled bezel no longer a part ...

Brew’s Latest Metric, in PVD Black, is Inspired by 1980s Car Culture and the Sportiest Metric Yet Worn & Wound
Brew s Latest Metric Apr 5, 2023

Brew’s Latest Metric, in PVD Black, is Inspired by 1980s Car Culture and the Sportiest Metric Yet

Brew’s Metric chronograph has become one of the biggest watch hits in the microbrand space since its introduction just a few years ago. The cycle of restock to sellout has been basically uninterrupted since the Metric made its debut in the summer of 2021, and the line recently saw an expansion with a gold plated version that rewired our expectations of what this watch can be. Now, just a few months out from that gold Metric, Brew has dropped a version in black PVD directly inspired by brand founder Jonathan Ferrer’s love of car culture.  All of the Metrics have a solidly vintage infused vibe, but this one is squarely placed in the 80s, and anyone who has spent any amount of time thinking about cars from that decade will immediately understand the connections Brew is making in the design of this watch. The design is overtly sporty, with bright red accents inspired by instrument clusters on 1980s 911s contrasting sharply with the matte black dial and case. The blasted steel pushers and crown dramatically set off the case, and give the watch a tool-like sensibility. But it’s the sleekness of the black coating on the case and bracelet that does the heavy lifting in connecting this watch to 80s sports cars.  Something that we’ve always appreciated about the Metric is its fidelity to a style of sports watch that became popular in the 1970s, watches with shaped cases in sizes that by today’s standards would be considered a bit undersized, but in their day would have j...

Airain Updates their Type 20 in a Stealthy Gray Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Massena Lab have also gotten Feb 27, 2023

Airain Updates their Type 20 in a Stealthy Gray Limited Edition

Airain, the heritage watch brand that made a triumphant return in 2020 with their Type 20 reissue, is back with a new spin on the popular (and historic) chronograph that gives it a sleek and under the radar look. Airain, you might remember, is one of the original French manufacturers of the Type 20 chronograph, the military aviator’s watch issued to French pilots in the 1950s and 60s. Several watchmakers were contracted by the French Ministry of Defense to produce the watches to spec, including Mathey Tissot, Dodane, and, most famously, Breguet. Vintage examples of the Type 20 are highly collectible, and Breguet of course still produces a variety of excellent chronographs under the moniker. Brands like Hemel and Massena LAB have also gotten in on the Type 20 action recently, which might harken a boom in interest in these very specific chronographs.  The specificity, I think, is part of the charm. Like other watches built for military purposes, the Type 20 was made to a certain standard, with certain key features, regardless of the manufacturer that actually produced it. In the case of the Type 20, those requirements included a black dial with registers at 3:00 and 6:00, giving the wearer the ability to time events up to 30 minutes in duration, along with a 38mm case diameter, a rotating 12 hour bezel, lumed hands and Arabic numerals, and accuracy to within 8 seconds per day. The other key feature was that the chronograph needed to have flyback functionality, a requireme...

Tool/Kit: Surfcasting on Long Island’s South Shore with the Recycled Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic Calanda Worn & Wound
Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic Feb 17, 2023

Tool/Kit: Surfcasting on Long Island’s South Shore with the Recycled Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic Calanda

Surfcasting is one of those things that took over a lot of my free time, and fast. My most frequent form of fishing is typically with a fly rod, standing in a relatively calm river somewhere gently presenting flies to willing trout. Surfcasting is the opposite. You’re standing in the ocean, waves crashing around you, often in the hours after sunset or before dawn. It feels a little crazy packing up and heading down to the beach at some absurd hour that you’d usually be sound asleep, but if the tides look good, you text your fishing buddy, pound a cup of coffee, and fight off the tired for a few hours hoping you’ll end up with a fish on the end of your line. For this trip that we documented, the watch on my wrist was the Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic Calanda. Its angular case is crafted from a unique 100% recycled steel that is sourced primarily from the maritime shipping industry. It’s interesting how the watch starts off serving one purpose in the ocean, and ends up back where it started, this time it’s on your wrist. The dial features a glossy black finish with applied indices, each filled with old radium lume that glows nice and bright while the sun is still below the horizon. The seconds hand is accented with a bright red triangle that picks up on the “SEASTRONG” text on the dial. Surrounding the dial is a unidirectional rotating bezel with a brushed finish. The textured edge is easy to grab and turn, even with a thick pair of neoprene gloves on. T...

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time? Worn & Wound
Seiko SSK001 Feb 2, 2023

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time?

In watches, like all things in life, everything comes back full circle. My watch collecting journey has meandered through different types of watches, spanning all shapes and sizes. There was a time where my collection had ballooned to a number that my watch box couldn’t accommodate. More recently, it has shrunk to a number that I can count on one hand. Very manageable, even by watch enthusiast’s standards. But despite the watches of past and present, there will always be that one watch that started it all – the Seiko SKX. I’m not talking about the ubiquitous Seiko SKX 007. No, not at all. The watch that kicked off this wild journey within this hobby, and ultimately led me to typing these actual words for you to read at your leisure, was the Seiko SKX013. The Seiko SKX diver format, in a more compact wearing case, suited my preferences at the time. It’s the watch that opened Pandora’s box to all sorts of things in, and out of horology. From figuring out how to change out straps (from that rattley jubilee) and learning about the history of the dive watch, to actually getting me into the sport of surfing. Through thick and thin, the SKX013 has always taken up a spot in the quiver. My beloved Seiko SKX013 (Left) & my brand new Seiko SSK001 GMT (Right) Side By Side $475 [VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time? Case Stainless Steel Movement Caliber 4R34 Dial Black Lume LumiBrite Lens Hardlex ...

G-Shock Introduces the “Extra-Thin” GA-2100 Carbon Core Guard SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch 13mm Aug 29, 2019

G-Shock Introduces the “Extra-Thin” GA-2100 Carbon Core Guard

The new G-Shock GA-2100 is likely the most wearable in the line-up, being the thinnest G-Shock ever. Its compact dimensions – and analogue hands – gives it the feel of a conventional watch, avoiding the extremely oversized style of many G-Shocks. Just 11.8mm high, the GA-2100 is thinner than the Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch (13mm) and the Rolex Daytona (12.2mm). The case diameter is 45.4mm, though it looks and feels substantially smaller. G-Shock inventor Kikuo Ibe at the launch of the GA-2100 in Singapore Though reduced in size, the GA-2100 has the traditional G-Shock case construction that includes an inner protective bumper around the electronic module. Visible around the steel case back, the bumper is made of carbon composite – which Casio has named the Carbon Core Guard – which is a dark marbled grey and distinct from the black resin outer case. The octagonal bezel is immediately reminiscent of the Royal Oak, but according to Casio it is actually a reworking of the bezel of the original G-Shock of 1983, the DW-5000C, which was octagonal, albeit one with unequal sides. The GA-2100 has an analogue displays for the time and day of the week, but also all the usual electronic functions of a G-Shock in two LCD windows, including multiple time zones, stopwatch, alarm, countdown and calendar. Key facts and price Diameter: 45.4mm Height: 11.8mm Material: Resin and carbon composite with steel back Water resistance: 200m Movement: 5611 Functions: Multi-fu...

The Uber-Lange 1 Gets the “Lumen” Treatment SJX Watches
Apr 14, 2026

The Uber-Lange 1 Gets the “Lumen” Treatment

A. Lange & Söhne turns once again to its greatest hits for its flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2026. The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” bestows the translucent, luminous treatment to the top-of-the-line Lange 1 in a 50-piece limited edition in platinum. Powered by the L225.1, an upgrade on the previous generation movement, the latest Lumen edition has a grey-tinted sapphire dial that reveals glow-in-the-dark elements, including the date discs and moon phase. Over the back, the edition is also set apart by a pair of steel cocks sporting engraving of stars. Initial thoughts The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” stands out as one of the most appealing Lumen models; I’d rank it up there along with the original Zeitwerk “Phantom” in terms of appeal. The Lumen treatment works best with lot of obvious luminous components, which is the case here. Flourishes like the luminous bases for each of the Roman hour numerals are a pleasing touch. The twin engraved steel cocks are especially noteworthy; the concept is classic Lange but the engraved star motif adds variety. That said, the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” scores highly, maybe even perfectly, in terms of intrinsic and tactile appeal. The technical accomplishment is also top class: the calendar is instantaneous, movement construction is sophisticated, and decoration is outstanding. But this arguably scores less well in terms of originality or creativity. The moveme...

Reviewing The Zeitwerk Date From A. Lange & Söhne WatchAdvice
Ming one Mar 5, 2026

Reviewing The Zeitwerk Date From A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk Date is not your normal watch, but that is exactly why we love it! We go hands-on to appreciate it in more detail. What We Love The colour combination of the pink gold and grey dial The movement! How could you not love it? The digital display makes the dial highly legible What We Don’t It is a larger version that won’t suit all wrists Being gold, it is not a daily wearer The crystal does have the ability to reflect the light against the darker dial Overall Rating: 9.1 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 When A. Lange  &  Söhne debuted the Zeitwerk in 2009, it didn’t just add another complication — it redefined how time could be displayed mechanically. Inspired by Dresden’s opera-house clock, the Zeitwerk fused architectural design with digital display, becoming one of modern watchmaking’s boldest statements. The movement, dial layout, and case proportions were conceived as a single, uncompromising idea. And for years, that idea remained (thankfully) almost stubbornly pure. Which is precisely why the introduction of the Zeitwerk Date marked a significant moment in the model’s evolution. Adding a date to a watch so resolved in its symmetry and identity is not as simple as just plonking a date window on the dial. It risks upsetting the balance that made the original so compelling in the first place. The solution was a peripheral date disc that rotates around the outside o...

Review: The New Baume & Mercier Clifton Year Of The Fire Horse WatchAdvice
Baume & Mercier Clifton Year Jan 31, 2026

Review: The New Baume & Mercier Clifton Year Of The Fire Horse

We have gone hands-on with the new Year of the Fire Horse limited edition Clifton from Baume & Mercier, which turns out to be a great Chinese New Year piece and an all-around dressier watch. What We Love The grey gradient dial looks great Good size at 40mm to suit most wrists Unique date wheel aperture with galloping horses What We Don’t The leather strap is on the stiffer side The crown stem is on the looser side, with some play in it when changing the date and time Quite a bit of reflection on the crystal at certain angles Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 It has become customary for watch brands to tap into the Chinese Zodiac to celebrate the Chinese New Year. For many, this time of year represents new beginnings, traditionally celebrating the end of winter and the beginning of spring (in the northern hemisphere that is), a new year in the lunar calendar and new life. I think this is something we can all appreciate, no matter what our religious or philosophical beliefs are. So each year, coming into the new calendar year, and especially leading up to the Chinese New Year around February, we see a slew of brands bringing out their interpretation of the new Zodiac sign that is to come, of which there are 12, meaning we only see this every 12 years, and in each animal sign, there are 5 elements that are associated with it. Thus, each Zodiac sign with a specific element will only come around every 60 ye...

Louis Vuitton Elevates the Escale Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Elevates Jan 19, 2026

Louis Vuitton Elevates the Escale Minute Repeater

Louis Vuitton sharpens its haute horlogerie credentials with the Escale Minute Repeater, a chiming complication paired with a jump hour and retrograde minutes display. Built around La Fabrique du Temps’s proven minute repeater calibre, the watch trades the previous Escale minute repeater’s world time function for a cleaner, more focused dial dominated by grey flammé guilloché. The result puts Louis Vuitton in direct competition with established players in complicated watchmaking, and comes complete with a discreet repeater slide hidden within the signature trunk-inspired lugs. Initial thoughts On the back of a strong 2025, Louis Vuittion doubles down on haute horlogerie, now in a more traditional case than last year’s Tambour. While the brand still offers the quartz Tambour Street Diver for just a few thousand dollars, Louis Vuittion’s ambitions clearly lie in the high-end. After years of strategic acquisitions and investments, the brand has the industrial base to compete and the know-how to do things its own way. The Escale Minute Repeater is the embodiment of Louis Vuitton’s ambitions, and is competitive with other minute repeaters from established haute horlogerie brands thanks to its modern movement and tasteful details. In short, it shows the brand understands the tastes of the day, and, more importantly, how to deliver a compelling package that leans into Louis Vuitton’s unique legacy and brand DNA. Furthermore, the minute repeater is something of a s...