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Deployant
You’ve heard the story before; the story of a wristwatch designed in 1931 that could survive a game of polo. That wristwatch was the original Reverso. For the longest time, the Reverso was time-only – no complications. In fact, it wasn’t until 1990 – as the 60th anniversary coincided with a renewed interest in mechanicalRead More
Teddy Baldassarre
The definition of an iconic watch is, of course, highly subjective, and a consensus on what makes a watch iconic is just about impossible to achieve. However, most of us likely agree on several key points. An iconic watch should be timeless in its appeal, influential in its design, and impactful in its market presence. Ideally, an iconic watch should also be one that has remained true to its original conception throughout the years and recognizable by even the most casual of watch enthusiasts. Often, a watch becomes iconic when it becomes associated with a celebrity or other historical figure, and some achieve iconic status simply by being the trailblazer for a certain complication or now-ubiquitous function or element. Our team took all of these factors into account while tackling the bold and frankly somewhat intimidating task of listing the world's most iconic watches. As you'll note upon reading the list, each watch we chose is defended with its Case for Icon Status based on the above criteria. Scroll down to read the list, which includes one iconic movement (you can probably guess which one) and four timepieces that might be a bit too new on the scene for definitive inclusion but which we can confidently call the Icons of Tomorrow. Of course, any listing such as this is guaranteed to generate opinions, which we encourage you to share in the comments section at the bottom. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 History: Even though the Lange 1 has only been on the scene since 1994,...
Worn & Wound
Accutron revived their famous electrostatic movement with a modern Spaceview in 2020, tapping into a heap of nostalgia in the process. This year, the Spaceview is getting its first major update with the release of the Spaceview Evolution, pushing the aesthetic concepts of the watch into new territory. The new variants retain every bit of the drama embraced by the original (both from the ‘60s, and from 2020), and dial up the ‘style’ factor thanks to some new finishes and color schemes that compliment the exposed components of the electrostatic movement. It remains as polarizing as ever, which is a refreshing move these days. The new Spaceview Evolution offers a pair of new flavors that bring a light and a dark appearance to the platform. The biggest shift you’ll notice right off the bat is the rotated orientation of everything on the dial. This is due to the 30° counter clockwise rotation of the movement, which alters the dial layout, and moves the crown from the 3 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position. The move opens up the top portion of the dial a bit further, bunching the three large apertures into the bottom dial’s bottom half. In addition to the layout rotation, the bridge work that frames the exposed areas of the movement, as well as the chapter ring at the perimeter, have received a healthy dose of finishing work, both to their surface and to their edges. The sprawling framing bridge shape gets a guilloche look with diamond polished bevels, whi...
Revolution
Wei sits down with Laurens de Rijke of De Rijke & Co., to understand how a small Dutch independent brand created an iconic watch featuring one of the most well-loved cartoon characters on the planet, Miffy. Our latest collaboration with De Rijke & Co. is an inspired take on De Rijke & Co’s original sold-out […]
SJX Watches
Having already debuted an oversized take on the ref. 765 AVI “Co-Pilot” of 1953, Breitling now introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42, a scaled-down version that pays homage to the vintage original. Unlike its bigger brother, the 46 mm Super AVI GMT that features a second time zone function, the Classic AVI is a no-frills watch with just the time and chronograph. The Classic AVI makes its debut with a range of regular-production models, each inspired by a historical fighter plane, alongside the limited-edition AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition. Classic AVI Chronograph 42 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk Initial thoughts The Super AVI GMT is a vintage-inspired chronograph with an appealing design, but with the drawback of the 46 mm case – huge by even by modern standards. The introduction of a more compact version is welcome, even if this addition further expands Breitling’s extensive (and sometimes confusing) catalogue. With its smaller case, the Classic AVI has arguably better proportions than its bigger brother, with dimensions better suited to the vintage-inspired styling. And because it is equipped with a Valjoux movement (otherwise known as the Breitling Caliber 23), the Classic AVI is amongst the most affordable Breitling chronographs, adding to its appeal. The P-51 Mustang The P-51 Mustang is the standout among the Classic AVI line-up. It has classic pilot’s chronograph aesthetics with a black dial and faux-patina Arabic numerals that provide a nostalgic feel. But e...
SJX Watches
Since its introduction in 2018 with the Tank Cintrée, Cartier Privé has emerged as a favourite of enthusiasts because it delves into the brand’s rich history by reimagining iconic designs. That approach is exemplified in the latest addition to the collection, the Privé Tank Normale. Based on the 1917 original designed by Louis Cartier, the latest incarnation of the Tank Normale matches historical style with a touch of modernity. Initial thoughts Even amongst Cartier’s many famous case designs, the Tank stands out as especially iconic. The very first Tank was the Normale so it was only a matter of time before Cartier revived the original Normale, which had been out of production for some years. The revived Tank Normale was clearly conceived with attention to detail. It looks much like the vintage original, but with a gently modernised dial as well as the heft and refinement of a modern timepiece. One especially pleasing detail that speaks to its creators’ eye for detail is the bevelled sapphire crystal that mimics the glass of the vintage original. A standout feature of the Tank Normale is the bracelet, which is optional and expensive but looks good. Constructed with brick-like links, the bracelet evoke watches from the 1920s. The vintage aesthetic fits the Tank Normale perfectly, but the build quality is solidly modern. This is the first bracelet Cartier has offered for its high-end men’s watches in some time, and hopefully it won’t be the last. As for the cho...
Hodinkee
Evolving the brand's original design to create an affordable, lightweight, and distinctive take on the GMT.
Hodinkee
Tracing the original owners of watches worn by The Greatest Generation.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer releases the first Monaco with a skeletonised dial Three colourways available – Original Blue, Racing Red and Turquoise Cases are made from grade 2 titanium Would Steve McQueen be turning in his grave at the sight of the new TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton? It’s worth asking the question, because there’s no doubt that … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton gives the iconic model a techno remix appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
True to the original, the steel Navigator is back and ready for action.
Worn & Wound
One of the things I love seeing in young watch brands is a strong, original point of view. There is no shortage of great, simple tool and sport watches available from brands new and old, making the space quite difficult to stake a new claim within. Getting off that well trodden path offers the opportunity to explore and express new ideas and flesh out off-genre watches in a manner that grants a new brand some breathing room. This is exactly what the brand Timeless has done with their latest watch, the HMS. This is a watch that defies simple categorization, yet feels genuinely approachable. Timeless has taken a big swing with the HMS, and while it doesn’t connect on every level, there’s plenty to enjoy in the point of view being expressed. The concept of the HMS was revealed in late 2020, and would go on to take shape over the following year, catching our attention along the way. The HMS is an immediately striking watch that eschews typical genre codes we generally expect to see, and while it struggles to balance the somewhat disparate elements, there’s some genuine charm to the underlying concept that feels rather refreshing. In the short time since its release, the HMS has already taken evolutionary steps, and what we have here is the HMS ref. 003. The HMS is a bit of an eyeful at a glance, with no clear focal point emerging between the ornate detailed structures that comprise the lugs, the case, and the dial, with each of those areas offering plenty of details to...
Time+Tide
One of the original champions of the geometrical, integrated-bracelet watch design is Baume & Mercier, first entering that market with the 1973 Riviera. Its dodecagonal bezel and minimal dial layout were designed by Jean-Claude Gueit, preceding many integrated-bracelet icons by some years. David Chaumet has been steering the Baume & Mercier ship since 2019, and … ContinuedThe post “Just created, 50 years ago” – Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet recalls the Riviera story appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin’s original Freak shook the watch-o-sphere to the core when unveiled at Basel in 2001. It was like nothing anyone had seen before; a complete reimagining of how a watch can function and display time where there was no crown, no dial and no hands. Seemingly so complex with a gear train sprawled across … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Freak One is a super-freak and chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Three new configurations for the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Titanium makes its debut in the collection, new green dial for stainless steel, all use coloured ceramic bezels for the first time Titanium model is US$2.6K more expensive than the original steel, new steel models US$1K more expensive due to new bezel and 18K moonshine gold … ContinuedThe post Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
If you continue to miss out on the ultra popular and still incredibly difficult to track down Silver Snoopy Speedmaster that Omega released in 2020 to an incredible level of hysteria, Seiko has what will certainly be a more affordable and (probably) easier to find pair of limited editions coming that might scratch that Snoopy itch. The latest Seiko 5 Sports limited editions are both Snoopy themed, and capture a lot of the charm from the original comics in subtle ways. The new watches use the smaller Seiko 5 Sports platforms, the 38mm case size with a dive bezel, and the 36mm field watch style case without a bezel. Each has a white dial with graphics pulled right from the comic. The larger dive style watch has an image of Snoopy with a surfboard (with the words “Seiko 5 Sports” printed on in).The smaller watch features Snoopy and Woodstock negotiating a parachute. These watches are being released as part of this year’s 55th anniversary celebration of the Seiko 5 Sports imprint. Accordingly, the artwork for the new watches was pulled from Peanuts comics dating to 1968, Seiko 5 Sports’ first year. That extends to the casebacks as well, which both feature larger images from the comics along with a “Limited Edition” designation. My personal favorite tribute to the original comics in these watches though is the use of the ‘Schulz’ font for the numerals on each piece. Along with the artwork, it makes these watches feel more grounded in their original comic str...
SJX Watches
It’s been 60 years since Jack Heuer introduced perhaps his best-known creation, the Carrera. Conceived as a no-frills chronograph for racing drivers, the original Carrera combined beauty and practicality without sacrificing style. Having released several vintage remakes, TAG Heuer has now pivoted and gently modernised its signature chronograph. The Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” retains the outline of the original, but it is recognisably different thanks to the highly-domed sapphire crystal – hence the “Glassbox” nickname – that allows the tachymeter scale to sit raised above the dial. The raised tachymeter echos the contours of the crystal, giving the watch a decidedly contemporary flair. Initial thoughts The Glassbox successful combines the old and new. The watch manages to convey evoke the original, while still looking like a modern watch, rather than a remake. The raised tachymeter scale and domed crystal serve to give the watch a visual depth that vintage originals lack. That said, essential elements from the vintage original have been ported over to the new design, like the typography on the tachymeter scale and applied markers for instance. Importantly, the Glassbox is smaller than most other comparable Carrera models, with a case that’s just 39 mm in diameter. The size suits the vintage-inspired design, although the watch still remains noticeably thick as a result of the movement. Interestingly, the two dials actually have different designs. The p...
SJX Watches
One of my favorite releases from Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph. Complicated Reversos are almost always interesting given the space constraints and commercial implications in developing rectangular movements, and the Tribute Chronograph is no exception. The new chronograph is a remake of sorts that honours one of the brand’s signature watches from the 1990s. While the original Reverso Chronographe Retrograde was a 500-piece limited edition in pink gold from 1996, the Tribute Chronograph is a regular production watch available in both pink gold or steel. Both versions feature a sun-ray brushed primary dial and partially open-worked chronograph dial on the reverse. Initial thoughts As a fan of the original Reverso chronograph, I am excited to see this concept brought back to life. The key elements that made the original unique, namely the distinct styles of the two faces and the compact, rectangular chronograph movement, have been retained and updated. Both the steel and pink gold references are attractive, but the pink gold version is arguably the most appealing with its gold-on-black livery that brings to mind vintage “gilt” dials. That said, there are a few trade-offs that give me pause. The large case of the Tribute Chronograph is potentially problematic for some wrists, and the simplified dial feels generic (whereas the original had a guilloche dial). I am also conflicted about the movement. On one hand, it’s gre...
SJX Watches
One of the most talked-about and contentious releases of the year, the IWC Ingenieur 40 is a reinterpretation of the vintage Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta. By sticking closely to the design of the 1976 original – and thus catering the current fad for integrated-bracelet sports watches – IWC is positioning the Ingenieur as a key part of its line-up, despite several unsuccessful attempts to reboot the collection in recent years. Initial thoughts With past revivals of the Ingenieur diverging further and further from the 1976 model in terms of styling, enthusiasts have been eagerly awaiting the return of the original design. And the recent popularity of integrated bracelets made such a comeback all the more likely. Now the Ingenieur has returned – in undoubtedly the correct guise. Though the design has been well received, there has been criticism of the movement and price. By staying faithful to the original design, the Ingenieur 40 gets it right. The construction shows attention to detail in the essential elements, including the patterned dial and bezel secured by polygonal screws, along with a slim case profile. These elements echo the vintage original, while still making it obvious the Ingenieur 40 is a new design. Despite the visual and tactile appeal, the Ingenieur 40 is burdened with significant drawbacks. The first is the cal. 32111, a movement found in entry-level models like Mark XX, which cost quite a bit less than the Ingenieur 40. Because the cal. ...
Hodinkee
The next generation of the enthusiast-favorite annual calendar chronograph is reintroduced by one of its original designers.
Worn & Wound
Urwerk released the UR100 concept to the world in late 2019 with a watch called SpaceTime. The watch served as a new entry point to the brand, recalling the simplicity of their original 101 and 102 concepts, with an open view to their modern wandering hour carriage design. It was pure Urwerk, and it was also among their most wearable modern watches. The UR100V has matured over the years, with the addition of new materials, colors, and even strap options. It’s a watch that’s proven remarkably adept at expanding its personality in a variety of directions, from the Mayan style ‘Time and Culture’ to the other-worldly P.02 done with Collective Horology. At its core, though, the UR100 is a simple concept, and the latest addition to the collection leans into that simplicity. The newest UR100V, dubbed the Magic T, gets a monochromatic treatment, presented in full bead blasted titanium from the case to the bracelet. The 3 dimensional dial adheres to the theme as well, with only sparse use of colors to aid in the legibility of telling the time (did I mention that this thing tells the time?). The Magic T is a distillation of the UR100 concept, a near bookend to the original SpaceTime, and an overall cleaner representation of the concept, which at its core, remains unchanged. Time is read via the hand rotating along the minute track at the bottom of the dial (if it can be called that?). The hand itself is attached to one of three hour carriages which house the rotating hou...
Time+Tide
The Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium brings lightness to the original Excalibur design A case-matching multi-link bracelet completes the monochrome design Equipped with a micro-rotor, the calibre RD720SQ is an utterly avant-garde take on a time-only movement You may be surprised to learn, as I was, that Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur collection is coming up on nearly two … ContinuedThe post The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium offers a subtler take on the brand’s avant-garde designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We’ve got some exciting news! Time + Tide is now an authorised dealer for Norqain, and we couldn’t be more thrilled. The Swiss brand has been making waves since they burst onto the scene five years ago, with attractive original designs that back up their good looks with some truly proper specs. A fiercely independent … ContinuedThe post D.C.’s top three Norqain picks from the shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Fresh from the original owner, this is the full story of Bill Fishburne's Heuer Carrera made possible by David E. Davis Jr. and Jack Heuer.
Worn & Wound
If you’ve been following the trajectory of H. Moser over the last few years, you know how important the Streamliner platform is to them. It’s one of very few entrants into the competitive integrated bracelet sports watch landscape that feels truly original, taking inspiration not from earlier integrated bracelet sports watches, but from the streamline moderne design philosophy, an offshoot of sorts of the Art Deco movement that gave us iconic building, train, and car designs, and eventually seeped into many other aspects of our everyday lives. The flowing lines of the Streamliner’s case and bracelet are often called “organic” for the way they evoke something that’s about to come to life, especially as it’s draped over your wrist, but one look at the aerodynamic locomotive designs of the 1930s tells you all you need to know about where the design inspiration for the watch really comes from. In any case, the Streamliner has struck a chord with watch lovers, and if we’re to believe forum chatter and anecdotes from collectors, it’s one of the tougher watches to get your hands on in the world of independent sports watches. So the release of any new Streamliner is a bit of an event, and the latest example begins a new chapter, replacing the green fumé Center Seconds model (the purest and least complicated version of the Streamliner) with a dial that the brand calls “smoked salmon,” and features a griffé finish that is typically reserved for Moser limite...
SJX Watches
Having already unveiled a slew of watches ranging from the uber-impressive Universelle grand complication to a compact Royal Oak with a turquoise stone dial, Audemars Piguet (AP) is also marking the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore. The commemorative editions started with the brand dropping the all-ceramic version of the original designed by Emmanuel Gueit. And they continue with the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “End of Days” 43 mm, a tribute to the watch worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in the 1999 film that was the brand’s first celebrity limited edition. Initial thoughts From the onset, it is clear this is not a remake. Instead, AP has restyled the Offshore 43 mm, combining the black-and-yellow livery of the original “End of Days” with an all-ceramic case. The result is a good looking sports chronograph that brings with it some of the original’s nostalgia – the original “EOD” was one of the hottest limited editions of its era. The new “End of Days” is a massive upgrade from the original in terms of materials and finish. The ceramic case is far more robust than the original’s black-coated steel, while the movement is now a sophisticated in-house calibre. But all that comes with a big price tag. At US$60,300, the new “End of Days” costs almost double its titanium counterparts. The price premium for ceramic is pretty standard across the AP lineup, so while it is expected it is still substantial. At the same time, the new “End of Days...
Worn & Wound
On Wednesday, April 12th, Worn and Wound was invited to the G-Shock Soho Store in New York City for the unveiling of their 40th Anniversary watches. There we were introduced to a trio of watches directly inspired by the original DW-5000 the brand famously released in April of 1983. On Wednesday, April 12th, Worn and Wound was invited to the G-Shock Soho Store in New York City for the unveiling of their 40th Anniversary watches. There we were introduced to a trio of watches directly inspired by the original DW-5000 the brand famously released in April of 1983. The post G-Shock Celebrates 40 Years with New Watches and a Museum appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
A salmon-and-steel update to the original L.U.C 1860 from 1997 that's everything I could've hoped for.
Time+Tide
Despite the age of the watchmaking trade, there aren’t too many brands that can boast 200 years of history. Those that do often have insular development, still operating from within their small town beginnings and sometimes run by the original family. The story of Bovet is much more diverse, including a multitude of characters and … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The history of Bovet, a contemporary brand with impeccable old-world credentials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Patek Philippe presents the Ref. 5224R-001, a new Calatrava model featuring an original, 24-hour, central display of local and home time.
Worn & Wound
Does the TAG Heuer Carrera really need an introduction? Well, I suppose to be thorough. One of the iconic motorsport chronographs, it was launched in 1963, deftly combining the sleekness and excitement of the sport that inspired it. While over the decades there have been many variations and evolutions to the Carrera, the original 2447 from 1963 has always served as a source for the brand to go back to when reinvigorating the line. This year is the 60th anniversary of the Carrera, which they already began celebrating back in January with the release of a model that stayed very close to that original reference, though with general modern updates. While that model goes literally back to the Carreras roots, the newly launched Carrera 39mm “glassbox” mixes modern and vintage details into one of the most attractive packages from TAG in some time. There are three models to the collection, two 39mm three-register chronos, and a 42mm chrono-tourbillon. Focusing on the former, the fact that these non-revival, non-limited Carreras are at 39mm is the first aspect to celebrate. This size, while not small by today’s standards nor the same as the original (it was 36mm), is small for TAG, whose modern chronographs are generally 41 – 45mm. I suspect, however, there is a reason for this. As the title “glassbox” literally states, these Carrera’s have large domed sapphire crystals. Like, really large. While it is said they are inspired by the domed Hesalite crystals of 70s Carre...
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