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Hamilton Debuts the Retro and Affordable Chrono-Matic 50 SJX Watches
Hamilton Debuts Feb 6, 2025

Hamilton Debuts the Retro and Affordable Chrono-Matic 50

Modelled on the Chrono-Matic GMT Count-Down from the 1970s, the Chrono-Matic 50 in blue stays true to its predecessor in style. The limited edition retains the five-crown configuration and retains the bold, helmet-shaped 48 mm case, though it forgoes the GMT function. As is typical for Hamilton, the new Chrono-Matic 50 is powered by a high-spec ETA movement and priced affordably. Initial thoughts For several years now, vintage reissues been a dependable strategy for watch brands. Rather than venturing into entirely new designs with unpredictable results, companies are playing safe by relying on the established appeal of reissues. But there are a lot of reissues already on the market, with more being launched seemingly all the time. The Chrono-Matic 50 in blue exemplifies this. Having introduced a black version in 2019, Hamilton has done the same in blue. The new Chrono-Matic 50 stands out from the average reissue in two respects. One is the better-than-average movement for the price range thanks to Hamilton being a sister company of ETA, the biggest maker of mechanical movements in Switzerland. The second is the historical basis of the watch; Hamilton did actually make something like that in the past, which gives this a legitimacy that startups lack. The case is somewhat oversized for my personal preference, though it is sized similarly to the chunky vintage original.It does have a unique design and layout, and with a retail of US$2,545, the Chrono-Matic 50 is also well p...

Introducing: The Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase Fratello
Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase Feb 4, 2025

Introducing: The Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase

We’re just barely a month into 2025, and Piaget is already rolling out the big guns. The new Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase is a modern, sporty piece with movement typically reserved for a dress watch. Because of its exotic nature, this release won’t be for everyone, but it’s always fun to have a look! The […] Visit Introducing: The Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase to read the full article.

Radial “Mount Iwate” Patterned Dial for the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Grand Seiko’s Feb 3, 2025

Radial “Mount Iwate” Patterned Dial for the Grand Seiko Evolution 9

Grand Seiko’s latest release, the Evolution 9 Hi-Beat 36000 SLGH027 Limited Edition, is all about the textured dial as is typical of the brand. Inspired by the ridges of Mount Iwate, a volcano that’s near Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi workshop, the radial dial motif is more deeply textured than earlier iterations of the “Mount Iwate” pattern. The rest of the watch is typical of the Evolution 9 “SLGH” model – a high-frequency automatic movement inside a Zaratsu-finish case in from Ever-Brilliant steel, a proprietary alloy with superior corrosion resistance and a brighter finish than conventional steel. Initial thoughts Of the many Grand Seiko dials, the new Mount Iwate motif stands out. While the latest dial shares the same radial style as the earlier “Mount Iwate” pattern, found on the Tentagraph SLGC001 amongst others, the dial of the SLGH027 has a deeper texture and more pronounced grooves, giving it an elevated aesthetic that is more striking. With so many variants, Grand Seiko’s textured dials are a little cliche at this point, but there is no denying that the watches are still impressively crafted and offer strong value, rivalling the strongest Swiss competition (except in terms of the bracelet). At US$10,500, the SLGH027 is priced similarly to equivalent prior models. While it is substantially more expensive than the average time-and-date Grand Seiko, the price is justified by the top-of-the-line cal. 9SA5, as well as the excellent case and dial wor...

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Feb 3, 2025

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition

Today, Grand Seiko introduces the SLGH027 “Mountainscape,” a limited-edition watch celebrating the brand’s 65th anniversary. The piece features the automatic Hi-Beat 9SA5 caliber, which debuted in 2020. As part of the Evolution 9 collection, this watch is not retro at all but a modern reference with stunning details. Grand Seiko always has a strong start […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mount Iwate Ice-Blue SLGH027 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mount Iwate Feb 3, 2025

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mount Iwate Ice-Blue SLGH027

Following the introduction of the Evolution 9 collection, with a new generation of mechanical and Spring Drive movements in 2020, Grand Seiko released a watch that will become a hit, the White Birch SLGH005. With its impressive dial, newly designed case and innovative movement, the watch made quite an impression… So much so that it […]

Price of Admission: What Are The Least Expensive Breguet Watches? Teddy Baldassarre
Breguet Jan 31, 2025

Price of Admission: What Are The Least Expensive Breguet Watches?

For those in the know, Breguet is a name in the history of watchmaking that commands instant respect, and even reverence. The brand’s legendary founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is rightfully lauded as the inventor of the tourbillon, but his lifetime horological resumé goes far beyond even that: he made the first self-winding movement, the first watch that was wound by a crown rather than a key, the pare-chute shock protection system, and the gong system for repeater watches, among other innovations. His customers included historical figures like King Louis XVI of France, Queen Marie-Antoinette, and Napoleon Bonaparte. He even invented a style of hands that many other watchmakers other than Breguet still use today. The modern brand that bears his name is one of the undisputed, upper-echelon Swiss watch maisons, alongside names like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, and the jewel in the crown of the Swatch Group.  All that said and acknowledged, a newcomer to Breguet, especially the prospective owner of his or her first Breguet watch, may find all of this background intimidating. And make no mistake, Breguet is unapologetic in both its embrace of historical renown and its timepieces’ exalted level of luxury. The brand’s modern-day stewards harbor no illusion that they offer anything that would be any aficionado’s “first watch.” The whole concept of “entry level” must be stretched a bit at this venerated tier of watchmaking: like Patek Philippe, A. Lan...

Introducing the Timex Giorgio Galli S2Ti: a Titanium Farewell to the S2 Worn & Wound
Timex Giorgio Galli S2Ti Jan 28, 2025

Introducing the Timex Giorgio Galli S2Ti: a Titanium Farewell to the S2

When Timex launched the Giorgio Galli S1 in 2020, an eponymous watch designed by the brand’s long-time creative director with over 30 years in the industry, it was met with shock. It didn’t look like a Timex, having a stripped-down, retro-luxury vibe. It didn’t feel like a Timex, constructed from injection molded steel and featuring a Miyota movement inside. It wasn’t priced like a Timex, initially listed at $450. And yet, it was described by the historic brand as “the most ‘Timex’ Timex ever made,” a bold statement and perhaps even a challenge to what we expect from the brand. It was met with excitement, if also some confusion, that wore off as the S1 took root and eventually spawned subsequent versions, including an enthusiast-friendly 38mm variety. In 2023, Timex followed up with the S2, which took Giorgio Galli’s vision further into conceptual territory as well as upmarket. The DNA of the S1 was clear, but the S2 was more than a refinement; it was a genuine evolution of the concept. Combining steel and titanium, the 38mm x 46mm x 12mm case was hollowed out from the side, revealing an unexpected structure for a sleeker, more contemporary style. The dial was further reduced to an expansive surface with a single applied ring, notched at intervals of five. Finally, it was Swiss-made, and powered by a decorated Selitta SW200 automatic. Minimal in a Euro-chic way, the S2 was a restrained and mature design intended to speak to the enthusiasts in Timex’s fa...

Aquastar Introduces the Benthos Heritage II SJX Watches
Doxa also Jan 28, 2025

Aquastar Introduces the Benthos Heritage II

A historical brand that was recently revived, Aquastar continues to mine its past catalogue with the Benthos Heritage II, a contemporary interpretation the original Benthos diver’s watch of 1970. Drawing on sketches from Aquastar’s archives, the new release has a typical 1970s style with a “turtle” case that’s a suitably compact 40 mm in diameter, but with a modern-day ceramic bezel insert and Sellita movement. Initial thoughts The Benthos Heritage II is essentially an affordable, wearable dive watch with contemporary specifications and materials. While the brand’s earlier Benthos was a substantial 42 mm by 15.4 mm, the new model is scaled down, reduced by 2 mm in diameter and 3.5 mm in thickness, giving it the smaller, vintage-like proportions that are popular today. However, Aquastar is just one of many brands producing vintage-inspired dive watches. In fact, its owner was also behind the relaunch of Doxa, also a brand specialising in vintage-remake dive watches. As a result, the new Benthos is not a unique concept, but it is well considering the price. Priced at US$1,490 on a stainless steel bracelet, the Benthos Heritage II is a decent value proposition. It’s priced similarly to other micro-brand offerings of comparable quality, but unlike startup brands, it comes with the historical background of the Aquastar brand. Part of its affordability is explained by the pre-order sales model, which means orders placed and paid for now will only be fulfilled in Ma...

Introducing: The Limited-Edition Timex Giorgio Galli S2Ti With A Titanium And Forged Carbon Case Fratello
Timex Giorgio Galli S2Ti Jan 28, 2025

Introducing: The Limited-Edition Timex Giorgio Galli S2Ti With A Titanium And Forged Carbon Case

In general, the watches on the Timex website are all quite affordable. You can get an Easy Rider for as little as €50, but even for the rest of the watches, €100–300 is often enough. However, that’s not true with the watches in Timex’s Giorgio Galli collection. The automatic S1 with a Japanese Miyota movement […] Visit Introducing: The Limited-Edition Timex Giorgio Galli S2Ti With A Titanium And Forged Carbon Case to read the full article.

Up Close: Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé Repeater Triple-Axis Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Jan 27, 2025

Up Close: Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé Repeater Triple-Axis Tourbillon

Hermès is a brand with a distinctive, often whimsical, visual identity that translates well across products, even on its most complicated watches like the Arceau Duc Attelé, which combines a triple-axis central tourbillon (containing a high-frequency escapement) with a minute repeater featuring novel “tuning fork” gongs. Large, thick, and very complex, the Duc Attelé still manages to capture the elegant aesthetic of the brand, even in subtle details of the H1926 movement, like horse-shaped hammers for the repeater. Customised for Hermès, the calibre has an intricate, dense construction but is recognisable as being produced by a specialist. Initial thoughts The Duc Attelé demonstrates the strength of the Hermès house style. On the front, it looks elegant despite the size, while the movement feels appropriate even though it is third party. The watch does sit big on the wrist, though the titanium version is a little lighter in weight and visually smaller due to its dark colours. But the Arceau case has tiny lugs, so it doesn’t feel clunky. And although the case is almost 20 mm high, a good part of that is due to the highly domed crystal that accommodates the tourbillon’s height. All of the design elements, however, give it an elegant feel. These include the Breguet numerals on the domed chapter ring and the “Lift” motif tourbillon cage modelled on the elevator in the brand’s flagship store in Paris. But more than anything else, this is a watch characterise...

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon White Gold Fratello
Gerald Charles Jan 25, 2025

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon White Gold

Gerald Charles continues to release new watches with artfully crafted surfaces. Today, the Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon White Gold is the focus. It features a handmade dial and exotic movement. As a limited edition, it joins a previous release with a rose gold dial. Earlier this week, we detailed the Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli, a […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon White Gold to read the full article.

Introducing – The new Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms Pink Ocean is… Very Pink Monochrome
Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms Pink Jan 23, 2025

Introducing – The new Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms Pink Ocean is… Very Pink

Following a rather unmanageable success with the Moonswatch collaboration with Omega, Swatch did it again in 2023 with yet another brand from the group – this time Blancpain – and with another emblematic watch – the Fifty Fathoms. The result, an accessible Bioceramic watch inspired by Blancpain’s famous dive watch, came with an automatic movement […]

Reviewing The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Jan 23, 2025

Reviewing The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye

It’s LVMH Watch Week and TAG Heuer has dropped a new Carrera Chronosprint – the Porsche Rallye in black. We went hands-on with it prior to the launch to see how the new variant handles. What We Love Good size for most wrists and wears slightly smaller than the specs suggest The unique chronograph movement is a bit of fun Vintage styling is a nice touch What We Don’t The bracelet could use more of a taper as well as a quick change option Still no screw-down crown on a 100m sports watch Setting an accurate reference time isn’t as easy due to the small minute track Overall Score 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 It’s no secret that TAG Heuer and Porsche share a long history, both in a shared name, the Carrera, stemming from the Carrera Panamericana race, as well as an association with each other. There have been numerous TAG Heuer x Porsche pieces over the years, but one of the more unique pieces was the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche TAG Heuer, which was developed and launched in late 2023. We didn’t do a hands-on review on this piece at the time, more like a pseudo-review as we did have the watch for the day prior to launch and were able to play with it and see how it looked and wore on the wrist. We also showcased the strange, but cool way it tracks the time on the chronograph, mimicking the original Porsche 911’s time of 0-100km/h in 9.1 seconds using a specially designed snail gear in the chronograph mec...

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Worn & Wound
Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Following Jan 22, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon

Following the release of the Longines Ultra-Chron in 2022, a revival of a very specific reference from 1968, Longines adds to the model family with the new Ultra-Chron Carbon. This model comes from a more modern age with a carbon and titanium construction, a monochromatic motif, and the same high-frequency automatic caliber inside. Initially, though, it is hard to tell if this model is meant to be an evolution of the former or an extension of the overall family. While there may still be some similarities to its sibling model, this new version does have its differences, which are important to note.  As the only carbon case piece currently being offered by the brand, it is interesting that Longines decided to introduce it in the oft-overlooked Ultra-Chron collection rather than its more popular offerings like the Spirit Zulu Time or the Conquest. Potentially a byproduct of the simpler case architecture being a bit more friendly to the material, the forged carbon does seem to look right at home molded into the cushion case shape. $4900 [VIDEO] Hands-On: the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Case Forged carbon Movement L836 Dial Anthracite Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Sailcloth Water Resistance 300 meters Dimensions 43 x 48.6mm Thickness 14.1mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $4900 Before taking a closer look, my mind immediately began to look back at a release from last year coming from another Swatch Group brand, the Tissot Sideral S, ready to call out similari...

REVIEW: What We Think Of The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple Jan 22, 2025

REVIEW: What We Think Of The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in stunning purple is the perfect blend of performance and precision! What We Love Sunburst purple dial steals the show Tourbillon cage stands out more on this model compared to other versions. Polished finishing on the case and dial makes this watch look stunning on the wrist What We Don’t Sub-dials could potentially have looked better by matching dial colour and finish. For the price point, the movement could have more finishing A tachymeter scale instead of a minute track would’ve looked fantastic too! Overall Score: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The TAG Heuer Carrera is one of the most iconic collections in the world of luxury watchmaking. As we know, the Carrera was first introduced in 1963 by Jack Heuer and was named after the infamous Carrera Panamericana, a high-octane race that stood for innovation and daring. Over the decades, the TAG Heuer Carrera has evolved; however, it still remains true to its original concept of precision, elegance and a design that brings together a perfect balance of form and function. The TAG Heuer Carrera is undoubtedly one of the most iconic watches in the world, known for its design language of clean lines and chronograph functionality. The watch is a timeless symbol of TAG Heuer’s ability to push the boundaries whilst still keeping the core identity of the watch intact. Presenting the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillo...

Tiffany & Co. Watchmaking Kicks Off with Bird on a Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Chanel watches Tiffany’s watch division Jan 22, 2025

Tiffany & Co. Watchmaking Kicks Off with Bird on a Flying Tourbillon

Having acquired Tiffany & Co. in 2020, LVMH set about remaking the storied American jeweller. That extended to Tiffany’s watch division, which now debuts the first flagship creation under new ownership, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon. Led since 2021 by Nicolas Beau, the former chief of Chanel watches, Tiffany’s watch division turned to independent watchmaker Artime for the movement of the new tourbillon. Set with some 4 carats of diamonds, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon features an off-centre dial layout with a flying tourbillon at seven o’clock, along with a turquoise marquetry dial bearing a pair of diamond-set birds in flight. Initial thoughts One of Tiffany’s best-known jewellery designs, the Bird on the Rock has been a fixture in the brand’s catalogue for decades. A horological twist on the concept, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon is clearly part of an effort to position the design as a versatile icon that is Tiffany’s equivalent of the Serpenti. It’s a little bigger and thicker than the traditional ladies’ watch, though reminiscent of the MB&F; LM Flying T. The reason for the size is the AFT24T01 movement inside, which is more interesting than usual as it was developed for Tiffany & Co. by Artime, a recently established independent brand. The AFT24T01 has a high quality execution with appealing details, but it’s related to Artime’s own calibre for a men’s skeleton tourbillon, explaining its large size. As an opening effort, the Bird on a Flying...

Introducing: The Re-Engineered 42mm Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 In Three Versions Fratello
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Jan 21, 2025

Introducing: The Re-Engineered 42mm Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 In Three Versions

Ever since the Big Bang Meca-10 came out in 2016, the watch has stood out thanks to its 10-day caliber with a Meccano-inspired architecture. This year, though the 10-day power reserve isn’t new, some other things are. The re-engineered Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 now measures 42mm in diameter and comes in three variations. You can […] Visit Introducing: The Re-Engineered 42mm Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 In Three Versions to read the full article.

First Look – The New, More Compact Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Jan 21, 2025

First Look – The New, More Compact Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm

Launched in 2016, the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 combines the best of Hublot: modern materials, an edgy skeleton movement with a 10-day power reserve – one of the most important calibres from the brand with the Unico Chronograph – and versatility with the practical one-click interchangeable strap system. With the current trend for smaller watches, […]

Hot Take: The “Winter Cool” Tissot PR516 Automatic (Valjoux) Chronograph Fratello
Tissot PR516 Automatic Valjoux Chronograph Jan 10, 2025

Hot Take: The “Winter Cool” Tissot PR516 Automatic (Valjoux) Chronograph

Tissot is expanding its PR516 collection with new chronograph models. Two quartz versions in PVD rose gold and bicolor and one stainless steel model with an automatic chronograph movement will join the lineup. The latter is based on a Valjoux A05 movement, an update of the famous Valjoux 7753. It’s this full-steel model with automatic […] Visit Hot Take: The “Winter Cool” Tissot PR516 Automatic (Valjoux) Chronograph to read the full article.

Longines’ High-Frequency Chronometer Gets a Carbon Composite Case SJX Watches
Longines High-Frequency Chronometer Gets Jan 3, 2025

Longines’ High-Frequency Chronometer Gets a Carbon Composite Case

Arguably under appreciated, the original Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver was a precision timekeeper with a high-frequency movement, the L.836.6. With the high-spec movement, the watch was appealing, albeit pricey by Longines’ standards. Now the brand has given the model an upgrade with the Ultra-Chron Carbon. The Ultra-Chron Carbon retains the familiar cushion-shaped case, but now in carbon composite, giving it lightness and a modern aesthetic that contrasts well with the retro, 1970s origins of the design. Initial thoughts The Ultra-Chron Carbon stands out for its blend of an advanced, industrial movement, composite materials technology (undoubtedly thanks to the Swatch Group’s vast industrial base), and a vintage-inspired aesthetic. Although it’s simply a modest variation of an existing model, the new Ultra-Chron marks the brand’s first venture into non-traditional case materials in the modern day. Priced at US$4,900, the Ultra-Chron Carbon commands a notably higher price than its stainless steel counterpart. While it does offer technical advantages - such as the carbon composite case and a high-frequency (5 Hz) movement - the watch still feels a little expensive relative to alternatives, especially since Longines is primarily a brand that competes in a lower price range. More broadly, the Ultra-Chron Carbon is not a like-for-like vintage remake, which is a good thing. But Longines can arguably do more with its movements. Given that the brand’s enthusiast-orien...