Hodinkee
Happenings: Artur Akmaev To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
Akmaev will discuss the art of hand engraving, enameling and high-end finishing.
Results for Plasma High-Tech Ceramic
3,313 articles · 303 videos found · page 67 of 121
Hodinkee
Time+Tide
The three watches Jamie wore most in 2023 – Citizen, Tudor, Lip
French, Swiss and Japanese - Jamie's 2023 high rotation contains multitudes.The post The three watches Jamie wore most in 2023 – Citizen, Tudor, Lip appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Inside Akrivia – Artisanal Manufacturing in Geneva
Followers of high-end independent watchmaking are likely familiar with Akrivia and its founder, Rexhep Rexhepi. Akrivia’s work, especially its finishing, has earned widespread acclaim and record auction results. Paradoxically the brand got off to slow start at its founding in 2012. Akrivia only rocketed to prominence with the launch of the Chronomètre Contemporain in 2018 and has been on the ascent ever since. Now just getting into its second decade, Akrivia has achieved a level of success that often proves elusive to upstart independent watchmakers, many of which have come and gone in the past few years. This success is due to numerous factors, but key among them is the brand’s demonstrated ability to evolve and improve. I recently had the opportunity to visit the brand’s workshops in Geneva’s Old Town to see how far Akrivia has come and get a hint of what’s in store for the future. Akrivia today Today, the brand employs 20 staff, up from just 10 in 2021. Considering its annual production of around 40 watches per year, this puts Akrivia in good company among the most artisanal brands in the industry. It would be tempting to look at this headcount growth and predict that production will soon increase, but that’s not the case. While the team of watchmakers has grown slightly – it now stands at eight – most of the added roles are go bring more manufacturing capabilities in-house and accelerate product development, along with a few administrative positions. M...
Deployant
New: Piaget Dragon & Phoenix Collection
Piaget has released four new High Jewelry watches that continue the theme of the Lunar New Year. It looks to be 3 Dragon watches and a Phoenix watch in rose gold, although the press release and other publications reproducing the same release seem to suggest there are 2 of each. From the rendered images, it appears to be one dragon and a phoenix in 32mm Altiplano case, one 41mm Altiplano High Jewelry Dragon and finally, a Dragon Piaget Emperador watch, featuring a flying tourbillon.
Monochrome
Recap – The Best Dress Watches of 2023
As the end of the year draws nearer every day now, we’re in the midst of the festive season. Christmas parties, New Year’s Eve celebrations and whatnot dominate our agendas. The perfect time really, to whip out a high-class dress watch and pair it with your cocktail dress or smoking, or with a onesie and […]
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – The Incredible Work of Everrati and their Electrified Mercedes-Benz 280SL Pagoda
The small but very interesting industry for high-end restored and bespoke vehicles doesn’t seem to be slowing down. We’re regularly treated to new and exciting projects where a small but extremely skilful workshop or engineering firm aims to build an enhanced version of a prolific vintage car. Often referred to as a restomod, a combination […]
Hodinkee
Auctions: Christie's And Mohammed Zaman Settle Lawsuit That Had Impounded Watches From Massive Single-Owner Sale
The settlement ends a dispute that had paused payment on Marlon Brando's GMT-Master, among other high-profile watches from November's 'Passion for Time' auction.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Accessible Peren Regia X Automatic 39 Diver
Gone are the days when dive watches truly challenged watchmakers. The Submariner and Fifty Fathoms battled it out in the 1950s, pushing for just 100 metres of water resistance. Modern tech allows microbrands to hit triple that depth today, so small watchmakers like Peren need to focus on design to really stand out. They’ve done […]
Worn & Wound
Bulova Refreshes the Sutton Line with New Rectangular Dress Watches, and a Pair of Mechanical Pocket Watches. Yes, Pocket Watches
Consider the pocket watch. While some may consider this genre of timepiece to be anachronistic, there is something excessively charming about the extended ritual one has when checking the time. While the pocket watch has lost some popularity to its wrist-bound cousin, there appears to still be interest in producing high-quality timepieces with a bit of vintage flair. Or, at least, Bulova thinks so. The watch company has recently released a new series of pocket watches inspired by the distinct and charming Sutton model. Adding depth to the Sutton design language, this new pair of pocket watches seamlessly bridges the gap between old and new and makes the pocket watch – somehow – feel totally modern. The Sutton pocket watches boast a sleek 50mm polished stainless steel case and a snap case back featuring a vertically brushed finish in both a gold and silver tone option. With a water resistance of 30 meters and a 42-hour power reserve thanks to the 8N24 skeleton movement, these timepieces are a blend of form and function. Each element of the pocket watch is designed to represent the heritage and meticulous detail of Bulova as a brand and the Sutton as its direct inspiration. The bale seamlessly follows the architectural lines of the case, continuing through the chain and adorned with the iconic Bulova tuning fork clasp. Each color option has its own personality that enhances the overall look of the watch itself. The silver reference is paired with blue-tone Roman numera...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Collection with a La Joux-Perret Movement
Frederique Constant is well-known for its wide portfolio of manufacture movements, ranging from classic time-only to high-end tourbillons and perpetual calendars. Still, not all watches from FC are powered by these internally developed and assembled calibres. Specifically, most of the brand’s entry-level models rely on Sellita movements. A new collection, which has just been presented, […]
Monochrome
Interview – IWC Creative Director Christian Knoop on the New Amsterdam Boutique, the Performance Chronograph & More
We were recently invited to join the festive reopening of the Amsterdam Boutique of IWC Schaffhausen. Nestled in one of the most luxurious high streets in our nation’s capital is a haven where you can fully immerse yourself in the wonderful world of IWC. Step inside, and you can discover the brand’s various collections in […]
SJX Watches
Review: Ulysse Nardin Blast Hourstriker
One of Ulysse Nardin’s more obscure models, the Blast Hourstriker is one of the brand’s most interesting watches from a technical perspective. It’s equipped with an in-house, self-winding tourbillon movement plus a hour-striking mechanism on top. And concealed on the back is an amplification system developed with the help of Devialet, the French maker of high-end speakers that was coincidentally founded by a member of the Nardin family that once controlled the eponymous brand. Initial thoughts The Ulysse Nardin (UN) Hourstriker caught my attention in 2019 when the brand debuted the Hourstriker Phantom, the first model featuring the Devialet amplification system. Comprised of both a novel gong fixture and soundboard, the Devialet system arguably ranks alongside the inventions in the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater ref. 5750P and Audemars Piguet Supersonnerie as one of the most notable striking innovations on the market today. And the backstory of the Devialet system is surprisingly appropriate: one of Devialet’s co-founders is Emmanuel Nardin, an industrial designer who’s a descendant of Ulysse. The Hourstriker Phantom. Image – Ulysse Nardin The Hourstriker Phantom was short-lived and quickly replaced by the Blast Hourstriker. Even though the Blast Hourstriker is a substantially upgraded watch, most enthusiasts are probably unaware of it, probably because it resembles less complicated models in UN’s catalogue. In the Blast Hourstriker, t...
Worn & Wound
Experts and Collectors Weigh in on the Return of Universal Genève
Early yesterday morning, news broke in the watch world that was both surprising, and felt inevitable. Universal Genève, the highly regarded and historic Swiss brand that has been effectively dormant for years, will be revived and relaunched by the same ownership team currently steering the ship at Breitling. While the news of Universal finally getting a high profile relaunch isn’t exactly shocking (reviving heritage brands shuttered during the Quartz Crisis has been a favorite pastime in the watch industry over the last decade), we weren’t expecting the Breitling connection. The news (and reaction to it) speaks both to the great affection the community feels for the Universal Genève brand, and to the strength and financial turnaround of Breitling under Georges Kern’s tenure. Universal Genève has a long and rich history, and has grown significantly in esteem in recent years. They were part of an explosion of interest in vintage watches that began more than ten years ago, but unlike other brands that benefited from increased attention on historic vintage pieces (Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet among them), Universal Genève doesn’t exist as a modern watchmaker in a meaningful way. For that reason, there’s always been a mystique to the brand that can’t really be replicated. We can, and do, compare vintage versions of Submariners, Daytonas, and Royal Oaks to their modern equivalents, and can thus relate to these watches through a modern context or l...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Rado Celebrates The 40th Anniversary Of A Curvy '80s Relic With The Fresh New Anatom
The brand that knows ceramic best is showing us there's more than one way to pay homage.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Latest Edition of the Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table
While the modern side of Roger Dubuis is unmistakably all about bold high horology (what the brand names Hyper Horology), there’s one collection that might even make a greater impact with watches infused with Medieval mythology and, in particular, by the legendary knights of the fellowship of King Arthur. Ever since the first Knights of […]
Monochrome
First Look – The Grand Cru Girard-Perregaux 1966 Château Latour Edition
Collaboration watches are a dime a dozen these days as watch brands turn to high-profile players and marques on the sports and cultural scene to add some pizzazz to their collections. Even some of the oldest Swiss watch brands are not immune to the appeal of collaborations, especially if the partner is as reputable as […]
SJX Watches
Up Close: Citizen Caliber 0210 “The Citizen”
Citizen launched its flagship mechanical watch, the Caliber 0200, two years ago. Despite being better known for high-end quartz watches – including the most accurate ever – the Japanese watchmaker managed an impressively executed three-handed sports watch, with an equally outstanding new movement. Now the model finally receives a mechanical upgrade with the Caliber 0210, which incorporates a date along with subtle improvements to the external design, while retaining the excellent case and bracelet that define the model. Initial thoughts The Caliber 0210 indicates the brand’s interest in further developing this excellent model – encouraging for fans of the model like myself. Despite the Caliber 0210 looking much like its predecessor, it is actually a substantially different watch in tangible terms. Ordinarily the addition of a date would be a no-no for a purist enthusiast, but here the date is integrated well in terms of dial proportions and (re)design. The appealing attributes of the Caliber 0200, and now the Caliber 0210, clearly mark the two out as watches conceived for a niche audience, namely enthusiasts who appreciate quality – and are able to distinguish this from the competition (Grand Seiko to state the obvious). However, this target audience often prefers the purity of a three-hand watch without a date. At the same time, this audience comprehends the substantive upgrades in the Caliber 0210 beyond the date – amongst them the improved case constructi...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Purple-Coloured Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two
Established in 1822, Bovet emerged as a prominent player in the high-end timepiece industry. Throughout the 19th century, Bovet became one of the most distinguished names in China, crafting opulent pocket watches adorned with lavish enamels and embellished with pearls. This distinctive, ornate aesthetic has transcended time and echoes in the contemporary Bovet timepieces, a […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Travis Scott Presents The AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked ‘Cactus Jack’ LE
Houston-born rapper Travis Scott partners with AP on a new chocolate brown ceramic QP.
Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet team up with Travis Scott, M.A.D.1 lucky losers, and the biggest DWW yet
The new Travis Scott x Audemars Piguet collaboration marks the first-ever brown ceramic Royal Oak watch.The post Audemars Piguet team up with Travis Scott, M.A.D.1 lucky losers, and the biggest DWW yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack”
Rumours of a brown ceramic Royal Oak began circulating several months ago, and the latest launch from Audemars Piguet (AP) has proven them true. However, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” 41 mm is more than a new colour, and instead it’s a 200-piece limited edition collaboration with American Rapper Travis Scott and his streetwear label Cactus Jack. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is interesting for being more than just a change of dial colour, which is usually the route taken for limited editions. While it is based on the standard model, the “Cactus Jack” gets a brown ceramic case as well as typography based on the musician’s handwriting on the dial, along with Cactus Jack’s smiley emblem for the moons. Notably, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is just one part of AP’s collaboration with Mr Scott. Their tie-up also includes a line of clothing, including hoodies, t-shirts, and caps, that will be available on Cactus Jack’s own retail site. Initial thoughts Although the “Cactus Jack” is fundamentally identical to the regular production skeleton perpetual in ceramic, it looks strikingly different because of the case. Typically I am not a fan of brown ceramic, but here the material sets the watch apart instantly. This differentiation is a good thing since there are many, many version of the Royal Oak perpetual calendar – the non-skeleton ceramic model is already available in b...
Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre & Mr Porter’s latest watch collaboration pays tribute to the stylish city of Sydney
The "watchmaker's watchmaker" and high-end online retailer have teamed up on an exclusive Reverso that celebrates The Harbour City.The post Jaeger-LeCoultre & Mr Porter’s latest watch collaboration pays tribute to the stylish city of Sydney appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Intricately Nuanced Green in the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grisaille Dragon
Christened “Récits de Voyages”, the Les Cabinotiers line-up for 2023 is all about captivating narratives told through unique timepieces, each recounting the historical expansion of the brand across diverse geographies. One of them evokes the mid-19th century when Vacheron Constantin forged its first commercial ties in China, reflecting the profound significance of the country for watchmaking in that era. The Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery “Dragon” pays homage to that historical relationship. This extraordinary timepiece features a grisaille enamel dial in green – the technique almost always relies on greys and blacks instead – that showcases the mythical five-clawed dragon, once the symbol of the Chinese emperor. The artisanal enamel dial is contained within a case fully set baguette-cut diamonds, alongside one of the thinnest self-winding movements ever, the cal. 1120. Initial thoughts The dial of the Les Cabinotiers Dragon showcases the grisaille technique that offers a distinct, high contrast and a clear focus on the mythical subject. Departing from the conventional grisaille approach of a monochromatic palette of greys, Vacheron Constantin opted for a unique twist by employing shaded green enamel to depict the majestic dragon. The colour manages to give the dragon more life than compared to a traditional black-and-grey grisaille dial, while still retaining the discreet elegance that is characteristic of the technique. The result is remarkable and...
Worn & Wound
Awake Introduces the Summetria, a Concept Watch Inspired by the Inherent Symmetry of the Natural World
Over the course of the last year, we’ve been keeping regular tabs on Awake, a microbrand with roots in France that operates within very narrow niches. Their watches are high concept and put a premium on storytelling, which admittedly is not everyone’s cup of tea. But we appreciate their creativity, and believe that this hobby is better and more interesting when brands like Awake are around to remind us that the watch world is encompasses a lot more than black dialed dive watches and vintage reissues. Their latest project, the Summetria collection, is based on perhaps their most abstract idea yet: the inherent beauty in nature, and the symmetry of all living things. The specific idea of symmetry is tackled here through guilloche dial treatments, which Awake relates to the natural symmetry of things like a butterfly’s wings or flower petals. Awake notes in their press materials for the Summetria collection that to human beings, symmetry seen in nature appears almost unimaginably complex, but the reason it exists at all is because “nature prefers simplicity.” From Awake’s perspective, it’s all about simplicity, and there’s a clear dichotomy there between the inherent complexity of watchmaking (and the application of guilloche) and the visual and functional simplicity of natural symmetry. Like I said, it’s abstract. But I appreciate that Awake is trying to draw connections between their watch designs and the natural world in ways that other brands do not ...
SJX Watches
Seiko Debuts a Smaller, Thinner Prospex Marinemaster
Seiko has remade its high-end dive watch with a new, slimmer movement and consequently more compact watch. Still known as the Prospex Marinemaster, the new model is available in three variants (SJE097, SJE099, and SJE101), all sharing a design heavily influenced by the brand’s first-ever dive watch, the “62MAS” from 1965. Initial thoughts Marinemaster models long been solid but chunky watches, with examples including the Hi-Beat 36,000 limited edition or the forest green model from 2021. A more compact iteration enhances its appeal, especially with the recent popularity of smaller, vintage-inspired dive watches. The “62MAS” model from 1965. Image – Seiko The design still echoes the original 62MAS, particularly in the dial and bezel layout. However, the new model, especially the light blue variant, gains a more contemporary feel with the horizontally striped dial along and the engraved markings on the bezel. The patterned dial easily brings to mind other sports watches, so it does seem a bit derivative, but Seiko’s position as a maker of dive watches is strong enough that this still looks and feels like a Seiko. The latest Marinemaster is priced at US$2,800, reflecting Seiko’s gradual upmarket move over recent years. This places it squarely within the mid-tier dive watch segment also occupied by brands such as such as Doxa or Longines. While it remains a compelling option at this price, it is no longer such a clear value proposition relative to the competit...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Patek Philippe Releases A Rainbow Aquanaut Luce Minute Repeater – For Ladies
A fairly diplomatic size, a high complication and a whole lot of gem-setting. Perhaps it's time to revisit what makes a unisex watch?
Worn & Wound
The Latest Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Taps into Japanese Skateboarding Culture
For those of you who only know the Tony Hawks of the world when it comes to skateboarding celebrities, might I introduce you to Yuto Horigome. Born in Tokyo on January 7, 1999, Yuto began skateboarding at six, influenced by his father. Rising through the ranks of Japanese competitions as a teenager, he moved to the U.S. after high school and quickly excelled in Street League Skateboarding, winning three 2018 stops within a year of his debut. Horigome achieved numerous milestones, including being the first Japanese skateboarder to win the X Games in 2019 and securing the World Championship in 2021, and in 2023, he became the first Japanese skateboarder to triumph at the historic Tampa Pro contest in the United States. With a resume like this, it’s no wonder that Seiko has released their latest Seiko 5 Sport in collaboration with the skateboarding wunderkind. This automatic GMT is the perfect balance of Seiko’s trademark style with a nod to the Tokyo that Horigome-san knows and loves. For starters, the 42.5mm stainless steel case and bracelet are coated in black which works nicely as the backdrop for the blue and purple bezel, inspired by Tokyo sunsets. The exhibition back’s Hardlex crystal is decorated with Yuto’s signature for an added personalized touch. Underneath the crystal, one can see the 4R34 caliber at work. This is a limited edition model with a limited production run of just 2,700 pieces. Each unit will be serialized, and the retail price is $520. Ava...
Quill & Pad
Champagne Devaux: Seriously Good Wines
Champagne Devaux blends are not predetermined and the non-vintage wines see a high proportion of reserve wines. The majority of the reserve wines are aged in oak vats while they also incorporate the solera process. Time on lees far outstrips many of their competitors.
Time+Tide
The Bulova Jet Star delivers a mechanical sweep with a 262kHz quartz movement
High-frequency quartz movements are a bit of a rarity these days, making Bulova's Jet Star all the more appealing.The post The Bulova Jet Star delivers a mechanical sweep with a 262kHz quartz movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”
After shading the Aqua Terra Worldtimer line in greys and greens, Omega debuts the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”. A new take on its dive-ready GMT, the watch is named after the dark grey ceramic case, which harnesses the material’s hardness while staying lightweight thanks to the extensive use of titanium for its internals, including the movement bridges. Initial thoughts Titanium and ceramic are not noteworthy in themselves, but here the materials are combined in an interesting and functional manner. The scratch resistance of ceramic is useful for the case, while the titanium inner components keep the weight down, a helpful characteristic for a big watch. And the materials also create a shades-of-grey appearance that gives the watch a sense of seriousness – with the orange accents bringing some tasteful contrast – though it is less stark compared to its all-black ceramic sibling. Thought lighter than usual for a watch of its size, the new GMT is a big watch measuring 45.5 mm in diameter, making it quite a bit bigger than comparable watches from Tudor for instance. It would be more wearable and have a wider appealing if the case was in the range of 41 mm to 42 mm. Despite its material attractions, however, the GMT “Dark Grey” is expensive at US$22,200. It is almost twice as expensive as the same model in black ceramic (that admittedly doesn’t have a titanium movement). Despite the titanium components, the price is hard to justify since it i...