Revolution
Through the Looking Glass: Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115
Oris Big Crown ProPilot X is a stunner several years in the works, the fruition of broad modernisation across the company in terms of technology and design.
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Time+Tide
VIDEO: The perfect gentleman – Tissot’s Gentleman Automatic
In the field of watch design there’s a lot to be said for restraint. Not every dial needs to be flashy, nor every case overwrought. Sometimes, all you need - all you want even - is a watch that looks good (no matter what), and can do anything, or at least anything most normal people … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The perfect gentleman – Tissot’s Gentleman Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Quick takes: IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Spitfire Edition “The Longest Flight”
IWC's contribution to the “Silver Spitfire - The Longest Flight” project. The IWC Pilot's Timezoner is easy to operate with gloves and created with the pilot in mind.
Time+Tide
Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 4 - the St Exupéry collection
Ladies and gentlemen, we’ve begun our descent. Now that we’ve completed our overview of the Top Gun, Spitfire and Classic collections we’d ask you to stow your tray tables and please pay attention to the final instalment in our series – the IWC Pilot’s St Exupéry collection. Now, IWC’s St Exupéry watches are named for … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 4 - the St Exupéry collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium Gold The Hour Glass
Celebrating The Hour Glass 40th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin introduces the Freak X Carbonium Gold, limited to 30 pieces.
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Omega Railmaster Is FINALLY Here! 9 New Watches You NEED to See This Week! May 2025
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar
If you’ll pardon the pun, Moser pioneered the development of elegant, perpetual calendars with their subtle Endeavour, which saw the month displayed using a short hand, mounted on the central pinion, and using the 12-hour markers as surrogates for the months of the year. Well, this model, the Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar, sees the brand … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD “Raspberry”
Over the last couple of years, H. Moser & Cie has become well-known for its playful jabs at the industry’s foibles – see exhibit one – as well as its provocatively pared back “concept” watches that are completely devoid of indications and logos. But its latest release, the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD “Raspberry”, is a return to its roots – a visual revamp of its ingenious perpetual calendar with the added flourish of a gorgeous burgundy fume dial. The perpetual calendar was the watch that made collectors sit up and take notice of Moser when the name was revived in 2005. With a minimalist, sensible display and ingenious mechanics, it was developed with the help of Andreas Strehler, an independent watchmaker who often builds complications for other brands. Though it has been around for over a decade now, it remains one of the most advanced perpetual calendars both in terms of function and practicality. The “Raspberry” is a variant of the perpetual calendar sports watch first launched two years ago. The new Pioneer Perpetual Calendar “Raspberry” Raspberry fumé In contrast to the classical Endeavour Perpetual Calendar that has is not a sports watch, hence its 30m depth rating, the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD incorporates a screw-down crown and is water-resistant to 120m. The case is stainless steel, and like most Moser watches, is substantially sized, measuring 42.8mm wide but a relatively slim 11.3mm in height, excluding the domed crys...
Time+Tide
Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 3 – the Classic collection
We’re now more than halfway through our flyover of the various families in the IWC Pilot’s family - we’ve covered off Top Gun and the Spitfire, but now we’re hitting the Classics. As you might expect given the classic moniker, the Classic family is, well, classic. Based strongly on the original military-era pilots, these watches … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 3 – the Classic collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hey! Ho! Laureato! Checking out Girard-Perregaux’s hot panda chronograph
Before we start, I feel I should apologise for the above headline. Only, I’m not sure if I should apologise to the Ramones or Girard-Perregaux. Perhaps both. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato was reborn at SIHH 2017 - from humble mid-70s beginnings. Since then we’ve seen the sporty collection gradually expand to encompass all the usual complications … ContinuedThe post Hey! Ho! Laureato! Checking out Girard-Perregaux’s hot panda chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“The watch that started it all for me” – Jean-Paul’s Breitling Transocean
There’s always one that started it all. The first taste that starts the passion. Like the first dunk that lit the flame in Jordan’s heart. The first moment Phelps touched the end of a pool and knew he loved to win. Or the first piece in your collection that opened your eyes to the variety … ContinuedThe post “The watch that started it all for me” – Jean-Paul’s Breitling Transocean appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Watch Expert EXPOSES Doctor Mike's Watch Collection
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Realising Breguet’s Dream of the Natural Escapement
Abraham-Louis Breguet’s contributions to horology are as numerous as they are fundamental. Practically every avenue of watchmaking is built on the foundations he laid down, from the perpetuelle self-winding mechanism to pare-chute shock-protection for balance pivots. But most famous of all was the tourbillon, patented in 1801. It was crucial to the precision of mechanical pocket watches and clocks, the only kinds of timepieces in use then, which normally sat in an upright, vertical position. The Breguet Souscription pocket watch of the 1990s that replicated the 19th century originals, right down to the pare-chute escapement The tourbillon, however, was not Breguet’s only effort in improving chronometric performance. Prior to the tourbillon, he created the lesser known but more elegant echappement naturel, or natural escapement, in 1789. It was a double-wheel chronometer escapement that in theory, needed no oil. Breguet managed to incorporate it into just 20 pocket watches, but serial production of the natural escapement ultimately eluded him as its design had inherent shortcomings – primarily backlash in the motion of its wheels – that made it impossible to commercialise. The idea was ahead of its time, and it would take some 200 years before technology made the natural escapement feasible. The concept of natural escapements continues to fascinate watchmakers, many of whom have conceived modern-day descendants, the most recent of which is the Ch...
Time+Tide
A closer look at TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon in black ceramic
Editor’s note: Earlier this week we had a look at a few TAG Heuer Tourbillons, including the impressive new Nanograph - with its fancy new carbon escapement and yellow highlights. But we’ve also still got the hots for one of the original models, this all-black beauty clad in ultra-tough ceramic. Dark, meet handsome. Owning a … ContinuedThe post A closer look at TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon in black ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR-X1 Phantom Chronograph
In 2014, Bell & Ross’ signature BR 01 design spawned a futuristic, ultra-graphic spin-off that would take the brand miles beyond the cockpit – the BR-X1. While the watch inherited the distinctive circle-within-a-square case modelled on aircraft instruments, from there the execution swerves radically away from the retro-military look of the original, with the BR-X1 taking on a greater complexity in both construction and style. Iterated into numerous variants in the five years since its launch – including a Renault Formula 1 edition and White Hawk – the BR-X1 is characterised by open-worked dial revealing a skeletonised chronograph module and a complex case made up of a combination of materials – here titanium and ceramic – with rocker-style pushers pivoted on one end. This year, Bell & Ross (B&R;) has unveiled one of the most striking iterations of the BR-X1 to date, the all-black Phantom. The BR-X1 Phantom Going dark Watches with black cases and dials are relatively common today, ironically thanks in part to one brand that resisted the genre so vehemently that it spawned an outlaw cult of aftermarket all-black watches. Even with the flood of black watches on the market, few have gone above and beyond in making everything on the watch black. The first truly all-black watch was the smash hit Hublot Big Bang of 2006, which was followed by hordes more. But the greatest irony of such watches is that the illegible colour palette results in an eminent...
Revolution
An Owner’s Perspective - The Bell & Ross x The Rake & Revolution “El Mirage”
Friend of Revolution, Azzam Jamil (a.k.a. @tourbillonlifestyle) pens his thoughts as an owner of the special edition Bell & Ross x The Rake & Revolution “El Mirage” chronograph.
Time+Tide
Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 1 – the Top Gun collection
IWC is famous for their pilot’s watches, and rightfully so - they’re instantly recognisable and a genuinely iconic modern design. And while the design born in the middle of last century was for a very specific purpose - as a navigational tool for aviators - the passing of time has seen the collection grow and evolve. … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 1 – the Top Gun collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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What makes Cartier's Watches & Wonders 2024 releases so special?
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Review: Bell & Ross BR-X1 Phantom
Bell & Ross revives the BR-X1 skeleton and provides an opportunity for those who fancy the watch a chance to own this piece. Here is the BR-X1 Phantom.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The defiant one – Zenith’s El Primero Defy 21 Carbon
In the early years of the 21st century, Zenith was a brand that looked to the past - honouring their iconic El Primero in its original guise, and taking flights of nostalgic fancy with its Pilot’s collection. All fine watches, but comfortable takes on familiar forms. In 2017, the brand abruptly changed direction, with a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The defiant one – Zenith’s El Primero Defy 21 Carbon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Rado x The Rake & Revolution Captain Cook “Ghost Captain”
We were so impressed with the 2017 Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook that we unanimously voted it for the Ultimate Value Watch of the Year Award, and even wanted one of our own. Meet the watch we have nicknamed “Ghost Captain”.
Time+Tide
Unfathomably inky – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept
Editor’s note: Without doubt, the most popular dial colour for men’s watches is black. So, here’s the blackest, darkest dial we can think of - the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept. To find out why this watch is so impossibly dark of dial, read on … Few colours have the symbolic weight … ContinuedThe post Unfathomably inky – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Looking through Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked
Editor’s note: Make no bones about it, skeleton watches are not to everyone’s taste. Legibility is sometimes less clear than a watch with a solid dial, but this is because time telling is almost ancillary to the stunning exposé that the watch offers. A skeleton dial offers a view typically reserved for a watchmaker in … ContinuedThe post Looking through Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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IN-DEPTH: Lang & Heyne, One Of Germany's Finest Watchmakers
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton X in Carbonium Gold
With a name that sounds like it comes straight from the Marvel Cinematic Universe, it should come as no surprise that the watch looks more than a little out of this world. First of all there’s the dial - or rather the lack of it. Because as you might guess with a name like “Skeleton … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton X in Carbonium Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Ulysse Nardin SKELETON X
The SKELETON X, a new Manufacture openworked movement for Ulysse Nardin. Notably, it features an X shape bridge that holds together a vertical design gear train.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept
Every year H. Moser & Cie. introduces an over the top, sometimes controversial watch – this year’s headliner was covered in grass – while also doing the opposite with its minimalist “concept” watches. Forsaking logos and numerals or indices, the concept watches have a clean yet colourful aesthetic coupled with appealing in-house movements – a tribute to stealth luxury. The latest iteration of the idea is the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Cosmic Green, a variation of the first model from two years ago. The watch now has a sublime green fumé dial. Though Moser relies on graduated dials often, maybe too often, it is still an attractive look, here with the added interest provided by the flying tourbillon. While not unique to Moser, the graduated tone fumé dials are almost a better calling card than the brand’s logo. In fact, all of Moser’s bestsellers feature this intriguing finish that has the dial colour darkening towards the edge, with the effect now available in several colour variations, including blue, grey and green. The green dial is striking, and quite mesmerising the first time you see it. Up close, the dial is more subdued than in the stock images of the watch, more sea green than forest green. Given the emptiness of the upper half of the dial, the sunburst finish is obvious and complements the gradual external colour change. The flying tourbillon The focal point of the lower half of the dial is the one-minute, flying t...
Revolution
Introducing the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Right-hander”
IWC introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Right-hander”, the first Big Pilot for the lefties in #watchfam
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Cartier’s Santos-Dumont is guaranteed to add class to your daily wear
Now that we’re more than halfway through, I think we can all admit that 2019 has been a bit of an odd one, as far as years go. If you had told past Felix that a slender steel quartz Cartier would be one of the best watches of the year, he would have scoffed. But … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Cartier’s Santos-Dumont is guaranteed to add class to your daily wear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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