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Essays: Georges Daniels At 100 And A Personal Reflection By Roger W. Smith OBE Hodinkee
Roger W. Smith Aug 19, 2026

Essays: Georges Daniels At 100 And A Personal Reflection By Roger W. Smith OBE

On the 100th anniversary of the birth of the legendary horologist and watchmaker Dr. George Daniels CBE, Hodinkee is honored to publish an essay from Daniels protege and friend, Roger W. Smith OBE, who has taken up the mantle of continuing the legacy of Daniels and his method of watchmaking. The bond between the two of them, though decades apart in age, has revitalized the rich legacy of British watchmaking. After the article, we'll share excerpts from an interview with Smith about his relationship with Daniels. — Hodinkee George Daniels at 100, A Personal Reflection by Roger W. Smith OBE On 19 August 2026, Dr. George Daniels CBE would have celebrated his 100th birthday. For most people, a centenary is an opportunity to look back. For those of us fortunate enough to have known him, it is also an opportunity to reflect on ideas that remain remarkably relevant today. The George Daniels Grand Complication from 1987. Throughout his lifetime, George made just twenty-four pocket watches and two wristwatches. I remember chatting with him on the opening night of his 'Retrospective Exhibition' at Sotheby's in 2006. Before the exhibition cases had been filled, he told me he had been sitting beside the assembled collection of his life's work. It fitted into just two A4-sized foam-lined metal trays. Yet those twenty-six watches contained ideas that fundamentally changed modern mechanical timekeeping. Few, if any, watchmakers have produced so little, yet influenced so much. "The Blue...

Introducing - Henri Grandjean & Cie Unveils the Magician Atrivm Green Sapphire and Atrivm Red Sapphire Monochrome
Aug 19, 2026

Introducing - Henri Grandjean & Cie Unveils the Magician Atrivm Green Sapphire and Atrivm Red Sapphire

Henri Grandjean (1803-1879) was a master watchmaker from Le Locle, renowned for his precision marine chronometers and for his pioneering role in Swiss chronometry. The name was recently revived by entrepreneur and collector Sohail Aziz and positioned as an independent brand specialising in exquisite high-end contemporary haute horlogerie. Making an impressive debut, Henri Grandjean & […]

Hands-On Review With The Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A Ushio Aug 18, 2026

Hands-On Review With The Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver

We go hands-on with the new Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, and see why this is the watch Grand Seiko fans and watch enthusiasts have been wanting! What We Love The new case size and dimensions That dial, I mean, seriously?! The new bracelet and clasp design What We Don’t The lack of a date window The full titanium construction may not be to everyone’s liking The anti-magnetism could be increased to accommodate modern life Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value For Money: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 This year, Grand Seiko upped the ante and took the fight to the swath of other luxury dive watches on the market with the release of its new Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, which was released at Watches & Wonders 2026. It was the dive watch Grand Seiko enthusiasts had been wanting and waiting for. A smaller, more wearable diver that was a little more contemporary than the models it replaced. With a raft of changes, including a smaller, better-proportioned case, a redesigned bracelet, new micro-adjustment and a more modern dial aesthetic, the new Ushio 300 Diver ticked so many boxes. Plus, Grand Seiko decided that steel was too heavy for a sports watch, so they made it from High-Intensity Titanium instead. The 2026 Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver models We had the privilege of previewing it before Watches & Wonders, and while the article I wrote up for the Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A 300 Ushio Diver was a ...

Just Because - Berneron Quietly Reveals its next Chapter, The Mirage Miroir Monochrome
Berneron Aug 18, 2026

Just Because - Berneron Quietly Reveals its next Chapter, The Mirage Miroir

Since founding his independent brand in 2022, Sylvain Berneron has built a reputation around a distinctive approach to form, mechanics and scarcity. His experience on the creative side of major organisations clearly shaped his understanding of both product design and the power of restraint. His first watch, the Mirage, established that philosophy immediately. Introduced in […]

Insight: The Science of Gear Tooth Profiles SJX Watches
Ming ly minor variations have Aug 18, 2026

Insight: The Science of Gear Tooth Profiles

Having explored several concepts related to energy systems in watchmaking, from mainspring barrel capacity to automatic winding and the chain and fusee, our technical series continues with a detailed examination of how that energy reaches the escapement. A vital part of all watch movements, gears are usually taken for granted and generally not given much thought. But upon closer look, gear tooth profiles vary in shape and size. These seemingly minor variations have big implications and reveal various calculated trade-offs. We take a closer look at the different gear profiles used in watchmaking and review their particularities and evolutions over time.  History and curves Mechanical timekeeping is inextricably linked to the concept of gears and transmissions. Long before the invention of the hairspring, early craftsmen and horologists were already using toothed wheels in conjunction with weights, verge escapements, and pendulums to measure the passage of time.  Historically, gear-cutters were separate professionals who catered to clock makers. Horological lore has it that the tooth profiles used during the 1600s were traced after the thumb’s shape, although it’s difficult find evidence for this theory. The invention of the hairspring marked a step-change in the technical evolution of the watch, and the later development of detached escapements enhanced precision further. These advances revealed transmission problems that had previously been masked by larger timing er...

The Quiet Case For Neo-Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Neo-vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Aug 17, 2026

The Quiet Case For Neo-Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre

Neo-vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre is an enthusiast’s delight. The watch that crystallized this for me is a Reverso Classique reference 252.8.86. It is a steel, manually wound example from the mid-2000s that recently crossed the block at auction. On paper, it is an unremarkable watch. No complications, no complications, and a relatively humble (for the brand) view […] Visit The Quiet Case For Neo-Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre to read the full article.

The Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Turns You Into a Local, Twice Over Fratello
Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Aug 16, 2026

The Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Turns You Into a Local, Twice Over

Ask me about my current favorite Citizen models, and I’ll quickly point to the brand’s Series 8 watches. It’s Citizens’ collection of modern mechanical watches that falls somewhere between the high-end “The Citizen” line and the brand’s affordable offerings. The Series 8 collection was unveiled in 2021, and two years later, the brand added the […] Visit The Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Turns You Into a Local, Twice Over to read the full article.

Reaching The Top With The Heavyweight HP Hercules In Polished Tantalum Fratello
Aug 15, 2026

Reaching The Top With The Heavyweight HP Hercules In Polished Tantalum

Last year, Thomas went hands-on with the HP Hercules Hand-Wound Double-Barreled. Today, I’m going to do exactly the same. However, this time the watch doesn’t feature a stainless-steel case but rather a fully polished tantalum one. As you might know, tantalum is an extremely dense metal, which makes the watch much heavier and also harder […] Visit Reaching The Top With The Heavyweight HP Hercules In Polished Tantalum to read the full article.

Introducing - The MeisterSinger Edition Unitas 1Z Blue Monochrome
Meistersinger Edition Unitas 1Z Blue Aug 14, 2026

Introducing - The MeisterSinger Edition Unitas 1Z Blue

For 25 years, MeisterSinger’s signature single-hand watches encouraged a more relaxed perception of time, focusing on the broader flow of the day rather than its smallest divisions. Earlier this year, the German brand presented the Edition Unitas 1Z, a limited anniversary model that revived the original 2004 Edition 1Z, its first watch to feature a […]

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV SJX Watches
Voutilainen demonstrate demand Aug 14, 2026

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV

Now beginning its second decade under the leadership of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has introduced the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the first model in the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. The FB 2TV represents an evolution of the brand’s long-running chain-and-fusee architecture, adding zero-reset seconds and a flying tourbillon, and inverting the calibre to exhibit its key functional elements on the dial side. Initial thoughts It’s hard to believe that it has been ten years since the debut of Ferdinand Berthoud as a contemporary brand. It was clear from the outset that FB had big ambitions, launching its first model with a chain and fusee mechanism. Since then, FB has maintained admirably high standards for itself, and while not all of the designs appeal to me, the obvious effort that goes into every watch — each FB 2TV receives more than 300 hours of decoration — has won the brand a durable position near the top of the industry. Now beginning its second decade, FB has released the first watch in a new collection that portends a more mechanically expressive style, with features like the chain and fusee inverted to the dial side. This approach isn’t original, but the success of other ‘inverted’ movements from independents like Kari Voutilainen demonstrate demand for the format. Quirky designs Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th-century pioneer of the spring detent escapement among other breakthroughs, approached watchmaking fr...

Out of Office: Exploring Japan with Citizen Watch Company Worn & Wound
Citizen Watch Company Aug 13, 2026

Out of Office: Exploring Japan with Citizen Watch Company

By now, you’re probably well aware of the incredibly enriching experience I had with Citizen Watch Company at their manufacturing facilities getting a peek behind the curtain at the genius that is the brand’s proprietary Eco-Drive technology. However, as I teased on a podcast episode, the warmth and transparency of every member of Citizen’s team was not the only thing that made this press trip so unique and special. Flying us quite literally halfway around the world, Citizen created an incredibly generous itinerary that left space for cultural experiences and personal exploration. The trip both kicked off and concluded in Tokyo, and here, there are three activities not to be missed. We were fortunate that Citizen planned the trip during one of the most beautiful and remarkable times of the year in Japan – cherry blossom season. It was essential to have a proper viewing experience of the breathtaking trees before the blooms fell for the season, which is only a short window. This is what makes the cherry blossoms so special – their impermanence and their beauty serve as a reminder to cherish the good moments while they last. With this relationship to time, it’s no wonder the color and delicate texture of the blossoms have long been a muse for Japanese watchmakers. I took in this experience at the Shinjuku Gyoen Garden, which is just a short 30-minute train ride from Tokyo’s city center and mere steps from the platform of the Shinjuku Station. Let me pause here ...

Brew Introduces the Limited Edition Retrograph Stone Blend Worn & Wound
Brew Introduces Aug 12, 2026

Brew Introduces the Limited Edition Retrograph Stone Blend

Just last week, I wrote about the stone dial trend and how it’s all getting just a little tiresome. And while I certainly stand by my position, we have to acknowledge and accept that there will continue to be stone dial watches announced and released while the trend continues (or peters out) that are interesting and worth covering. Being able to hold two conflicting ideas in your head at the same time is an essential piece of being an adult, after all, and certainly it matters in the watch world as well, and is something we do all the time (we know buying watches is an objectively bad financial decision, we do it anyway, etc.).  With that being said, Brew has introduced a new watch with a stone dial that I think is actually very nice and not part of the crop of stone dial watches that we’ve seen as of late that appear to be haphazardly slapped together for the sake of capitalizing on an opportunity. The new Retrograph Stone Blend Automatic is a new limited edition featuring a pietersite stone dial inspired by the signature visual element of coffee culture: the moment when milk is poured into a coffee and begins to swirl and blend together.  Specifically, Brew says that the Stone Blend is meant to conjure the patterns created as milk is added to cold brew coffee, which of course is often served in a translucent glass that allows one to see the two liquids come together in a sometimes dramatic way. Who hasn’t been transfixed by this at one point or another? Pietersit...

Seiko Explores The Unique Art Of Bonsai In Its New Presage Classic HCC009J1 Fratello
Seiko Explores Aug 12, 2026

Seiko Explores The Unique Art Of Bonsai In Its New Presage Classic HCC009J1

Although it’s the heart of the summer break, Seiko is definitely not taking any time off. We have been enjoying a steady stream of releases from the Japanese brand. At Fratello, we are in the lucky position to see some of the new releases up front. The last time we were given a preview of […] Visit Seiko Explores The Unique Art Of Bonsai In Its New Presage Classic HCC009J1 to read the full article.

Bangalore Watch Company Introduces the Forty-Seven, their First Pocket Watch Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet collab remains one Aug 11, 2026

Bangalore Watch Company Introduces the Forty-Seven, their First Pocket Watch

I’m not quite sure that it would be correct to say that pocket watches are “having a moment,” but I’ve certainly thought and written about pocket watches more in 2026 than in any year I can remember. Mostly that’s due to an approximately two week stretch earlier this year when the entire watch community was focused like a laser beam on the Royal Pop. I’m not exactly sure what happened since (has anyone actually seen a Royal Pop in the wild?) but that Swatch x Audemars Piguet collab remains one of the biggest stories of the year, even if they flew a little too close to the sun. There was also this Timex desk clock, which is basically a pocket watch with an integrated stand, and of course this new Horological Machine from MB&F;, which is not a pocket watch at all, but exists in that “watch as desk object” world and kind of begs the user to take the strap off the case for mounting purposes, leaving you with what amounts to a pocket watch without the chain or lanyard.  OK, that last one might be a stretch. But nevertheless, when a press release from Bangalore Watch Company came through to let me know that the India based brand had created a midcentury style pocket watch, I started to think about the possibility that we might be in the midst of a trend. I don’t actually think we are – pocket watches perhaps are a little over the line on the anachronistic spectrum to catch on with enough people to make this a thing in 2026, but it’s a nice looking clock reg...

Interview: A Glimpse Into The World Of Konstantin Chaykin Fratello
Konstantin Chaykin Konstantin Chaykin Aug 11, 2026

Interview: A Glimpse Into The World Of Konstantin Chaykin

Konstantin Chaykin is a self-described watchmaker, inventor, and artist. In this interview (casually combating the English-Russian language barrier), Chaykin takes us on his journey from a maker of complex clocks to a master of ultra-thin watchmaking. He also shares insights into the world of independent watchmaking, Russia’s horological history, and how he injects a dash […] Visit Interview: A Glimpse Into The World Of Konstantin Chaykin to read the full article.

Hands On: Grand Seiko “Hisen” SBGZ011 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Hisen” SBGZ011 Grand Seiko’s Aug 11, 2026

Hands On: Grand Seiko “Hisen” SBGZ011

Grand Seiko’s excellent dive watches may have stolen the show Watches & Wonders, but the waterfall-inspired Masterpiece Collection “Hisen” SBGZ011 proves the brand hasn’t let its next-generation Spring Drive rollout outshine its fine watchmaking project — the Micro Artist Studio. While best known for the Credor Eichi II, and some of the finest chiming wristwatches yet made, the Micro Artist Studio’s work for Grand Seiko is perhaps even better, and though its resplendent movements can be found in more subtle watches, the “Hisen” is just as decadently decorated outside as it is within. Initial thoughts Last year, Grand Seiko kicked off a streak of hits, launching the compact and precise Spring Drive SLGB003, on a quick-adjust bracelet. This year the brand launched an even deadlier duo of mid-sized Spring Drive divers, and probably has another commercial success on deck for next year. But in the background, the Shinshu Watch Studio, where all Spring Drive watches are made, continues its fine watchmaking efforts with the stunning diamond and Mozambique garnet set “Red Lion” ref. SBGD228, and the “Hisen” SBGZ011 reviewed here. Aesthetically, it is my least favorite of the four engraved-case models the brand has produced in recent memory — my favourites being the SBGZ001 “Snowflake” the astral SBGZ007 — due to the dial being too busy. However, the engraved 44GS case is almost magical, reminding me of the Quartz VFA ref. 3823-7030 and 3820-6000. L...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227G-015 “Rose Gilt” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5227G-015 “Rose Aug 11, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227G-015 “Rose Gilt”

Patek Philippe’s headline launches this year included the surprising Celestial ref. 6105G and Nautilus 50th anniversary editions, but also more classical, yet under-the-radar, watches, like the Calatrava ref. 5227G-015 with a “rose-gilt” dial and hinged case back. Though the Calatrava ref. 5227 with its distinctive “officer’s case” has been in the catalogue for well over a decade, the latest iteration is the best yet. The combination is somewhat formulaic – “salmon” dial and white gold case – but it is good looking and evocative of old-school Patek Philippe dress watches. At the same time, this new variant of the ref. 5227 contains a latest-generation automatic movement. Initial thoughts Ironically two of the standout launches by Patek Philippe during Watches & Wonders were fairly basic, essentially facelifts of references that have been in the catalogue for decades. One was the ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar, and the other is this, the Calatrava ref. 5227G-015. Though both are entirely different in function and price, they are similar in style. The designs are both restrained and evocative of vintage Patek Philippe watches; both also have dials in popular shades. “Salmon” is definitely overdone as a dial colour, but it doesn’t stop this Calatrava from being really appealing. The ref. 5227 is typical Patek Philippe in form. Even though it’s at the larger end of the range for Calatrava models, it still feels elegant. The case is thin and sits fla...

Arcanaut Introduces Fordite 2.0, Now Fully Customizable Worn & Wound
Ming Aug 10, 2026

Arcanaut Introduces Fordite 2.0, Now Fully Customizable

Arcanaut, the Scandinavian indie known for their innovation with and unusual use of uncommon dial materials, has announced a major update to their signature watch. The Arc II Fordite, a personal favorite of mine and a watch I’ve proudly owned for a number of years, has been rethought as a bespoke piece, customized by each individual owner in a number of ways. Some of the options available feel like natural evolutions for the line based on a number of things we’ve seen from the brand in recent years across other projects, but a few are genuinely surprising.  When purchasing an Arc II Fordite from Arcanaut directly, the customer is brought to their Fordite Configurator, which first asks for their choice in dial. This, of course, is the heart of a Fordite watch as every dial is inherently unique (they are made from paint drippings from American auto factories). Prospective owners have always been able to choose their dial of course, but the watches have been sold as finished products. The new process centers the dials and the surprising ways they vary in appearance, and asks customers to think about how best to complement it.  The most welcome new development in the new Fordite process is the ability to pick from multiple cases. A total of four options are available, in “Standard” and “Skeleton” varieties, coming in at 40.5mm (the original size) or a new 37mm diameter. A smaller size should be exciting news to many as the 40.5mm case can wear quite a bit larger ...

The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time Aug 8, 2026

The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time

The option of being like Thomas and picking the Rolex Explorer II for the best watch I have ever owned was tempting. I thought about it, and yes, my Explorer II 16570 “Polar” was a very good watch in many ways. But it wasn’t the best one I have ever owned. The biggest flaw? The […] Visit The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time to read the full article.

The Lightweight Casio F-91WF Watch on Cloth-Strap WatchRider
Casio F-91WF Watch Aug 7, 2026

The Lightweight Casio F-91WF Watch on Cloth-Strap

The Casio F-91W does not need a complicated introduction. It is one of the simplest digital watches you can buy and one of the easiest to recognise. The new F-91WF collection keeps that familiar formula but changes the part that has the greatest effect on comfort and character: the strap. Instead of the usual resin band, each watch comes with a lightweight cloth strap made from recycled PET. There are three models in the collection. The F-91WF-1A is black, the F-91WF-2A is navy blue and the F-91WF-3A is olive green. The case colour is matched to the strap on each version, so none of them looks like an ordinary F-91W with a random replacement strap. They feel like a complete collection with three clear personalities. Why the F-91WF is more than a strap change The cloth strap is the main news but it is not only a visual detail. Casio describes it as lightweight, comfortable, resistant to scratches and resistant to stains. It should also feel less rigid than a resin strap, especially during hot weather or when the watch is worn for a full day. Its recycled PET material gives the range a practical environmental benefit without changing the affordable and uncomplicated nature of the F-91W. The strap fits wrists from 145 to 215mm. That broad range matters because the case itself is very compact. It measures 38.2mm from top to bottom, 35.2mm across and only 8.5mm thick. Each version weighs just 21 grams. On the wrist it should almost disappear, which remains one of the strongest ...

Feel The Power! The Newly Refreshed Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve Fratello
Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Aug 6, 2026

Feel The Power! The Newly Refreshed Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve

When it comes to the Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, three years are important: 1954, 1959, and 2024. 1954 marks the year of the Conquest collection’s birth, 1959 is the year in which the first Conquest with a central power reserve indicator debuted, and 2024 marks the 70th anniversary of the Conquest collection. This […] Visit Feel The Power! The Newly Refreshed Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve to read the full article.