Results for Côtes de Genève

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Konstantin Chaykin Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon

An inventive watchmaker based in Russia, Konstantin Chaykin has combined two of his most notable timepieces to create a unique wristwatch for Only Watch 2021. Bearing a face that resembles his signature Joker, the Martian Tourbillon tells the time on Mars, just like the Mars Conquerer he debuted last year. More intriguingly, the watch is equipped with a tourbillon regulator that makes one revolution every Martian minute – or 61.65 seconds. Initial thoughts Konstantin never fails to impress with his unorthodox approach to watchmaking. The Martian Tourbillon lives up to that reputation. It is quirky, odd, and thoroughly interesting. Given that it indicates time on Mars, its utility here on Earth will be limited, but the Martian Tourbillon encapsulates Konstantin’s versatile and comprehensive approach to a unique timepiece for Only Watch (which was very much the case for his 2019 creation). The Martian Tourbillon even incorporates a literal Martian tourbillon regulator, while having a case made of medieval Russian steel. The only images available of the watch for now are renderings, but I very much look forward to seeing this in person. Martian face The face of the watch indicates the hours on the left sub-dial, while minutes are within the right sub-dial. Just below the “nose” is a half-month indicator for the Darian calendar, invented by aerospace engineer Thomas Gangale for future human colonisers of the Red Planet. And the “smile” indicates sols, or Martian...

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Tudor Black Bay GMT One Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Tudor Black Bay GMT One

Tudor’s entry into Only Watch 2021 is typical – a reinterpretation of one of its current models – but at the same time strikingly unusual. The Black Bay GMT One is a dual time zone with a heavily aged finish on the case and bracelet, along with an open back showing off a movement similar to that found in the recent Black Bay Ceramic. Initial thoughts Tudor’s watches are ordinarily excellent quality and tremendous value, though most are styled within certain aesthetic confines. The brand gets to do things differently at Only Watch, and the Black Bay GMT One is probably the most interesting to date. Most Tudor watches look shiny and new, and even those that acquire a patina remain pristine under the crystal. The GMT One is purposefully aged, even on the dial and movement, which gives it a lived-in look that’s appealing in a sports watch. Granted, the aged bracelet seems a bit much – I’d wear it on a strap – but given that there’ll only be one of these and it’ll sell for about US$350,000 that’s a moot point. Lastly, it’s notable that the GMT One is powered by a Master Chronometer movement, perhaps a reference to the strategic genius of the similar movement found in the Black Bay Ceramic. Slightly worn The GMT One has a case steel and bracelet that are identical to that found on the standard model, except for the surface treatment. Both are finished with a black coating that is then partially and randomly worn off via tumble polishing, creating an aged-...

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F.P. Journe surprises Jul 1, 2021

New: F.P. Journe surprises with the new time display based on an original idea of Francis Ford Coppola

F.P. Journe surprises us in his submission for Only Watch 2021 with an original idea to show time from Francis Ford Coppola.

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Rexhep Rexhepi Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II

What can one infer from a drawing of a new timepiece? As it turns out, a fair bit. The below sketch is the only bit of information revealed by Akrivia for its contribution to Only Watch 2021, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII). Despite the paucity of information, much can still be deduced from the single image. Initial impressions The most apparent fact that can be gleaned the sketch is a deadbeat seconds – a seconds hand that jumps discretely once a second. We can infer this from the star and flirt mechanism. The star is mounted on the escape wheel, which is located at six o’clock and completes a revolution once every five seconds. The star blocks the rotation of a flirt, a long lever that presses against the face of the star’s teeth. After each second, the star rotates far enough that the tooth provides enough clearance to release the flirt, allowing the star to rotate until the flirt contacts the next tooth of the star. This sudden release of the flirt is what controls the burst of rotational energy that drives the deadbeat second geartrain. Further inferences can be made from our May 2020 chat with Rexhep, where he hinted the RRCCII will have twin barrels powering separate going trains. In retrospect, that now makes sense in the context of the deadbeat seconds. One barrel drives the going train for timekeeping, including the escape wheel and the star. The other barrel drives a secondary gear train for the deadbeat seconds hand and the flirt...

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F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”

F.P. Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021 is an interesting one – the FFC Blue, characterised by a hand on the dial that displays the hours. Like F.P. Journe’s past contributions to Only Watch, the FFC Blue is powered by a prototype movement – rough around the edges and lots of character – and features a case of tantalum, the grey-blue metal synonymous with the bestselling Chronometre Bleu. Named after the initials of Francis Ford Coppola, the film director best known for The Godfather, the FFC Blue originated in a 2012 visit to Mr Coppola’s residence. The director asked Mr Journe a seemingly innocuous question over dinner, wondering whether it was possible to tell the time with a human hand. Mr Journe mulled it over and over several years devised a mechanism with the help of Mr Coppola, who sent sketches of the desired finger positions for each hour. The unveiling of the FFC Blue also marks the 20th anniversary of the F.P. Journe Octa and its automatic cal. 1300 (it’s the second watch to mark the occasion in fact), which is the base movement of the FFC Blue. Initial Impressions At first glance, the FFC Blue is bizarre for F.P. Journe. The hand sculpture on the dial is unlike most of the brand’s other designs, which are mostly conservative and often Breguet-inspired. Upon closer examination, indeed a bizarre watch it is – in a good way. The mechanism is an impressive example of an automaton, a complex answer to a simple question: how can the human hand...

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Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Ref Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001

Departing from its Only Watch tradition of unique versions of current-production wristwatches, Patek Philippe’s contribution to Only Watch 2021 is a desk clock with perpetual calendar modelled on a 1923 original now in the Patek Philippe Museum. The Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001 is inspired by a desk clock owned by James Ward Packard, the American automobile tycoon who was one of Patek Philippe’s leading clients in the 1920s. Made of sterling silver and vermeil with inlays of American walnut, the clock contains a 31-day movement featuring a perpetual calendar. Initial thoughts Topping the mega, CHF31 million result for the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A at Only Watch 2019 would be hard to imagine since the Grandmaster Chime is the most complicated and expensive watch in the brand’s catalogue. Resetting the counter with a desk clock is a shrewd move since its avoids comparisons with the wristwatch of 2019. That said, the desk clock is actually more unique than anything else Patek Philippe has made in recent memory – it is literally the timepiece of this form that exists. Even the unique Dome Clocks and desk clocks that Patek Philippe offer in its annual Rare Handcrafts line up are based on standard templates. It’s worth noting that the desk clock has a “rose-gold opaline” dial similar to that of the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A, so it might make a nice pair for the buyer of the 2019 watch. Packard’s clock The inspiration for this clock...

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Time+Tide

Rolex ? What Jul 1, 2021

A Chrome Hearts Rolex? What the hell did Drake just gift Lil Baby?

Rolex is known for what I like to call robust elegance, designs built on the classic Oyster Perpetual format that manage to be both dressy and sporty at the same time. So when I saw reports that Drake had gifted Lil Baby a Chrome Hearts Rolex watch I was immediately confounded by its aesthetic. Admittedly, … ContinuedThe post A Chrome Hearts Rolex? What the hell did Drake just gift Lil Baby? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Jun 30, 2021

Pierce Brosnan really loves a dress watch and is fed up of Bond

Getting frustrated wondering if you’ll ever get to see the endlessly delayed new James Bond film, No Time To Die? Well, count yourself lucky that you’re not Pierce Brosnan. The actor who stepped into 007’s shoes to play Bond from 1995 to 2002, admitted last week that he’s fed up of getting quizzed as to … ContinuedThe post Pierce Brosnan really loves a dress watch and is fed up of Bond appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quill & Pad

Jun 30, 2021

Worldtimers, Erotic Watches, And Poker-Playing Dogs: A.H.C.I. Co-Founder Svend Andersen Has (Semi-) Retired, But His Brand Lives On – Reprise

Late in 2015 the news came through that A.H.C.I. co-founder Svend Andersen had sold his company. But how did Andersen get here? Let's take a quick tour of more than half a century's worth of independent horology the Danish way to find out, which includes an extravaganza of worldtimers, unusual erotic watches, and even poker-playing dogs.

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Time+Tide

Seiko Presage Style 60’s Jun 30, 2021

VIDEO: The Seiko Presage Style 60’s is a slick everyday watch with a dapper edge

The new Seiko Presage Style 60’s range may be initially confusing. The inspiration lies in their 1964 Seiko Crown Chronograph, except that this new imagining doesn’t have a chrono pusher or a stopwatch function at all. Instead we have a slim, stylish interpretation in a three-hand elegant 40.8mm case, and all the right vintage cues. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko Presage Style 60’s is a slick everyday watch with a dapper edge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quill & Pad

Jun 29, 2021

Louis Roederer Cristal 2013 And Cristal Rosé 2012: As Good As Champagne Gets

Ken Gargett just had the chance to try Louis Roederer's Cristal Rosé 2012 and Cristal 2013 champagnes. For many, a good sparkling rosé is a thing of beauty and this one tops most. While Ken's usual response to a young Cristal is that it is fabulous, he feels it something of a shame that the 2013 Cristal was not given a bit longer before release. However, both of these vintages are glorious now and there is no doubt they will age and improve for many years.

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Time+Tide

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Bronze Jun 29, 2021

The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Bronze is the best value bronze watch around

Bronze is all the rage right now. The metal ticks a lot of boxes, offering a precious metal tone without a precious metal price premium. The cases typically generate a patina and, as we all know, vintage aesthetics are very on trend. Plus, it’s an alternative to the ever ubiquitous stainless steel and allows collectors … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Bronze is the best value bronze watch around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Revolution

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Jun 29, 2021

Time Trial: The Low-Down on Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

Wei Koh gives his initial takes on the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze, which takes its lead from the first iteration of the Bronze watch, with a brown dial and bezel insert. He walks us through the creation process of the bronze-aluminium alloy they use, also demonstrating the new clasp on the bracelet called T-Fit, which allows the wearer to alter the length by 8mm quickly and without the need for any tools.

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Greubel Forsey Goes Green Jun 29, 2021

Greubel Forsey Goes Green with Plant-Based Straps

Best known for its ultra-exotic tourbillon wristwatches, Greubel Forsey has just made a surprise announcement: the brand will be permanently eliminating animal leather straps for its timepieces, instead replacing them with straps made of plant-based materials starting next year. While not the first brand turning towards sustainable alternatives to animal leather  – Swatch and Cartier did so earlier this year – Greubel Forsey is the first to undergo a complete transition, doing away with animal hides entirely. And with its most affordable watch still carrying a six-figure US dollar price, Greubel Forsey is certainly the only brand at the top end of the market doing so. More broadly, the luxury-watch industry has been making slower progress than the luxury-car industry, which has speedily moved on to greener materials for interiors. That is perhaps driven in part by the fact that traditional carmakers are already regarded as major polluters, with upstarts like Tesla accelerating away. Giants such as Bentley and Mercedes-Benz now rely on specialists like Dinamica and Vegea for leather replacements that are actually recycled paper and plant-based material respectively. That’s proof that a similar pivot for watchmakers is achievable, which is the opinion of Greubel Forsey chief executive Antonio Calce. “The technical offer for plant-based straps is mature,” noted Mr Calce in the announcement, “And our clients are by nature forward-thinking and welcoming of innovati...

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Zenith Introduces Jun 29, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Next-Generation El Primero A386

Though Zenith celebrated the 50th anniversary of its iconic chronograph movement in 2019, it took a while longer for the long-awaited successor to the original El Primero. Looking like yet another remake on the surface – the design is almost a dead ringer for the A386 of 1969 – the retro styling of the new Chronomaster Original belies the latest-generation El Primero, the all-new cal. 3600 that boasts a lightning seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Chronomaster Original essentially repackages the vintage A386, preserving the distinctive design while installing a modern movement. As a result, the watch is familiar and appealing in broad strokes, but has a few surprises in its details. Take the dials for instance, which are offered in two guises. One is the traditional “tri-colour” from 1969, while the other is an unusual and gorgeous “panda” dial that stands out from its counterparts. Ironically, the black-and-silver dial looks more retro, in part due to the faux-vintage lume, despite not having the original colour palette. The case is a compact 38 mm, identical to the vintage original. It’s heartening – but surprising – to see the return of the 38 mm case, which was ostensibly retired not too long ago. The move back to the 38 mm case makes sense, since it accommodates enthusiasts who prefer a size true to the vintage original, as well as catering to prevailing fad for classical, elegant style. Despite the case being the same diameter as it was in 1969, t...

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WatchAdvice

Zenith Chronomaster Original Revealed Let’s Jun 29, 2021

2021 Zenith Chronomaster Original Revealed

Let’s rewind a little, back to 2019. Zenith was celebrating the 50th anniversary of the El Primero and presented a box of 3 watches limited to 50 sets. Included in the set was the highly sought after A386 re-edition in steel. The only way to get your hands on this piece was to buy the box set, which came with a fourth slot for a forth-coming “1/1000th of a second” chronograph, to be released at a later time. Yes there were other A386 anniversary editions that can be had separately, but they came in precious metal. What people wanted was the steel A386. Zenith kept teasing the market with various versions of it, but not the exact iconic version that was released in 1969, as one of the first to house this ground-breaking chronograph movement.  Then in 2020, the Manufacture edition dropped, with a prototype dial that was found in a little box up in the attic where Charles Vermot hid the tools, parts, and plans to build the El Primero back in 1975. The idea was that you could only purchase the Manufacture edition when you visit the Zenith Manufacture. Sort of like a gift shop purchase at the end of the tour. It would be extremely difficult to come by as you’d have to have made the trip to Switzerland to pick one up.  Look, we gotta give it up to the product designers and planners. hats off to Romain Marietta, who probably has one of the best jobs in the industry. This was a superb idea. This guaranteed exclusivity and collectability. But then we all knew what happene...

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Time+Tide

Greubel Forsey goes vegan Jun 29, 2021

Greubel Forsey goes vegan and will no longer use animal-based leather

Greubel Forsey, creators of last year’s thought-provoking Hand Made One and regular winners of GPHG honours, are known for their intricate craftsmanship and small production runs. But the brand have announced that, from 2022, they will no longer be using animal-based leather for any of their straps and will commit to using 100% plant-based leather … ContinuedThe post Greubel Forsey goes vegan and will no longer use animal-based leather appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quill & Pad

Bovet Jun 28, 2021

Bovet Rolls-Royce Boat Tail: Bespoke His And Hers Unique Timepieces For The Dashboard, Wrist, And Desktop

Working very closely with Bovet, the Rolls-Royce Boat Tail comes with two custom-made his and hers watches that can be placed into a special holder in the car to serve as dashboard clocks. For Bovet, this is almost a natural development as these watches feature special versions of the Amadeo case, allowing them to be quickly and easily transformed from wristwatch to pocket watch, pendant, or desk clock. This pairing truly gives new meaning to the word luxury.

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Grand Seiko Jun 28, 2021

Seiko Introduces the Presage Studio Ghibli with an Enamel Dial

Seiko has long incorporated Japan’s unique pop culture into its watches – from Gundam to Street Fighter – and now it’s turned to the legendary anime film studio behind hits like Spirited Away. The Presage Studio Ghibli Castle In The Sky is inspired by the 1986 anime film about a pair of children protecting a magic crystal from government agents. Despite the cartoon inspiration, the new Presage has a classical design with Breguet hands, a fired-enamel dial – and no date window. Initial thoughts The Castle in the Sky edition gets a few things right. It combines a few specialties of Seiko – the fired enamel dial, Japanese pop culture, and a modern, workhorse movement – all for under US$1,500. That said, the mid-range price is novel for a collaborative model in this vein, since the brand’s earlier crossover editions were either priced substantially higher (as a Grand Seiko) or lower (a Seiko 5). Also notable is the no-date dial. While Seiko has long offered enamel dials in affordable watches, it usually installs a date function on the three-hand models, perhaps a concession to the brand’s focus on fuss-free practicality for its watches. Leaving out the date is not only significant from a philosophical standpoint – perhaps it’s an admission the design matters more than its utility – but the omission of a date aperture makes for a higher quality look. The date window never looked good, especially since the aperture revealed the relatively rough edges...

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Time+Tide

Jun 28, 2021

The CODE41 X41 Edition 5 combines fine watchmaking with affordability and transparency

When I first came across CODE41, the X41 AeroCarbon had my immediate attention. Here was a watch that – on paper – offered considerably more technical watchmaking and engineering prowess than its price point competitors. CODE41 coupled this value proposition with a promise of increased transparency, lifting the veil on costs to give potential buyers more insight … ContinuedThe post The CODE41 X41 Edition 5 combines fine watchmaking with affordability and transparency appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quill & Pad

A. Lange & Sohne Jun 27, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar: Nothing More, Nothing Less

A. Lange & Söhne recently introduced a new model: the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar, the least complicated perpetual calendar that A. Lange & Söhne has ever made. And, as Joshua Munchow explains in detail, it's a truly gorgeous way to "time travel."

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Quill & Pad

Jun 27, 2021

Deeper, Further, Faster: Why Some Dive Watches Have Helium Escape Valves – Reprise

Humans have long had a fascination with the depths of the ocean, striving to go ever deeper, ever further, and ever faster by pushing the limits of the human body, technology, and advancing modern science. But like all things, we are often faced with limits. Enter the helium escape valve.

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Time+Tide

Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis collection Jun 26, 2021

The new Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis collection is spectacular watchmaking in a blaze of colour

Hublot seldom disappoints when it comes to a summer barrage of colours and materials, and the new MP-09 collection is here to prove the point. Hublot’s MP-series represents the pure spirit of the maison as each is a Manufacture Piece, showcasing the outer limits of materiality and design. To be honest, most of Hublot’s normal … ContinuedThe post The new Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis collection is spectacular watchmaking in a blaze of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Jun 26, 2021

George Daniels Millennium Wristwatch Hammers For World Record £519,000/€605,813 At Bonhams Auction

With auction prices soaring, it was a good time for an auction house to be offering rare timepieces by the world’s best independent watchmakers. And a 1999 Millennium wristwatch by George Daniels and Roger Smith offered in Bonhams' sale on June 16, 2021 set an auction record for a British-made wristwatch!

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Deployant

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic DEPLOYANT Jun 26, 2021

Review: new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

Tudor adds a new material to its growing list of Black Bay variants, with the new Black Bay Ceramic. This is the first time a full ceramic case is used on a regular production model, succeeding an earlier Only Watch 2019 all black model. Other notable changes include METAS certification, an anti-magnetic movement, and a two-liner dial instead of the usual Rolex style 'paragraph'.

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Time+Tide

Chopard Jun 26, 2021

5 of the best environmentally friendly watches on the market right now

“Environmentally friendly” isn’t a phrase that immediately comes to mind when you think of the watch industry. Craftsmanship, passion and heritage might be more likely answers in a word association game with your psychologist. But that doesn’t mean that there aren’t parts of the industry that are genuinely doing their bit. Chopard is well-known for … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best environmentally friendly watches on the market right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Grand Seiko SBGZ007 Jun 25, 2021

The Grand Seiko SBGZ007 is a masterpiece that evokes the starry skies of Japan

Masterpiece is a strong label. It’s not something to be taken lightly. Many of us in the watch journalism game get rightly chastised for throwing around terms such as ‘iconic’ willy-nilly. But with Grand Seiko, and their Masterpiece Collection, I can type with full confidence that their creations live up to the classification. These watches … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGZ007 is a masterpiece that evokes the starry skies of Japan appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Vacheron Constantin 222 Jun 25, 2021

This reader just found a Vacheron Constantin 222 in his sock drawer worth $115k

Paul Draper* peered into his sock drawer looking for the watch. He’d just read Nick Kenyon’s story on Time+Tide about how a new report estimates that $60 billion USD of watches are gathering dust in people’s homes due to their owners’ failure to recognise what their timepieces are actually worth. The article gave Paul pause … ContinuedThe post This reader just found a Vacheron Constantin 222 in his sock drawer worth $115k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Jun 24, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Write us a letter, you might end up in the Friday Wind Down. Like this dude who is spitting fire facts.

We get a lot of ‘mail’ at Time+Tide, if you can generously call random DMs, strange emails to info@ and so on as correspondence. The most existentially challenging this week was one – from Eric A – that read simply: Why? The likelihood is it related to something particular. Like, in the context of this … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Write us a letter, you might end up in the Friday Wind Down. Like this dude who is spitting fire facts. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Jun 24, 2021

Baselworld 2022 is back, but does anyone care any more?

Just like the Fast and Furious franchise, the Baselworld watch fair is refusing to die. That’s right, Baselworld 2022 is back, but it’s unlikely to be better than ever, or even a shadow of its former self. If you’re just joining the story now, it’s important you know the history behind the slow and agonising … ContinuedThe post Baselworld 2022 is back, but does anyone care any more? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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