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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03 Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR 03 Former Olympic Nov 8, 2023

Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03

Former Olympic cycling coach Dave Brailsford once said, “If you broke down everything you could think of that goes into riding a bike, and then improved it by 1%, you will get a significant increase when you put them all together”. The new Bell & Ross BR 03 features several small tweaks to its most iconic line of watches, and although not every modification is objectively ‘better’, the combination of all of the changes give us a watch that somehow feels less intense and therefore significantly more wearable. I’ve spent some time with the new BR 03 Military Ceramic to work out just what makes it feel so different. On the face of it, not much has changed. A reduction in case diameter from 42mm all the way down to 41mm isn’t earth-shattering. Without seeing the two side by side you would be hard-pressed to know which one you are looking at. The other case changes are just as subtle. The shape has been altered slightly to round the corners a little more. The introduction of the BR 05 in 2019 saw a much softer ‘square’ shape from Bell and Ross. The new BR 03 remains much closer to the square instrument panel shape the brand is famous for, but the silhouette reshaping is one of those 1% changes mentioned above. $4300 Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03 Case Micro Blasted ceramic Movement BR-CAL.302 Dial Khaki Lume Numerals and hands Lens Sapphire Strap Khaki rubber Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 41 x 50mm Thickness 10.6mm Lug Width 24mm Crown Pu...

Obituary: Jörg Bucherer, the King of European Watch Retail SJX Watches
Rolex Nov 8, 2023

Obituary: Jörg Bucherer, the King of European Watch Retail

Jörg G. Bucherer, the third generation to run the Bucherer retail chain, passed away on Monday evening at age 87. The news was first reported by Swiss newspapers including Le Temps. His death comes less than three months after agreeing to sell his family business to Rolex in a multi-billion franc move that shocked the entire industry, but secured the future of the company. He led an extraordinary life, being one of the last remaining people to have worked directly with Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, and building a reputation as a man about town. Known for his fast cars and beautiful women in his youth, he was always extremely closely guarded when it came to media appearances. Bucherer took over the business in 1977, and had been at the centre of the industry ever since. Having navigated many turbulent periods in matchmaking, he not only kept the Lucerne-based retailer afloat, but steered it to the very top, with the business now counting over 100 points of sale across Europe and America, making it the biggest seller of Rolex watches anywhere. The historic Bucherer store in Lucerne. Image – Bucherer When Bucherer took the reins from his father, the industry was in turmoil in the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis. That didn’t stop him as he expanded the company from its Swiss base into new territories such as Austria and Germany in 1980s. He would go on to acquire other retailers as he pursued expansion, including Kurz Group in 1989 and Swiss Lion in 2001. The real b...

Sotheby’s sale of two George Daniels x Roger Smith watches had a record-breaking result Time+Tide
Patek Philippe watches But it Nov 8, 2023

Sotheby’s sale of two George Daniels x Roger Smith watches had a record-breaking result

When a big auction house presents their latest catalogue of lots, it is expected that it will be filled with various Rolex and Patek Philippe watches. But, it is not an everyday occurence for two incredibly rare and historically significant watches from the likes of George Daniels and Roger W. Smith to pop up – … ContinuedThe post Sotheby’s sale of two George Daniels x Roger Smith watches had a record-breaking result appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On With the Oris x Collective Horology C.04 Divers Seventy-Five Worn & Wound
Oris x Collective Horology C.04 Nov 7, 2023

Hands-On With the Oris x Collective Horology C.04 Divers Seventy-Five

We love a good riff on an existing concept around here, and there’s one candidate in particular that’s ripe for experimentation. The Oris Divers 65 (of Divers Sixty-Five if you’re not into the whole brevity thing) has proven rather malleable in recent years, hosting a variety of colorways, material combinations, dial designs, and even movements. And to its credit, all of them seem to work pretty well. Enter Collective Horology, who are using this watch as a base to their latest collaboration, the C.04, in a shaggy ‘70s inspired take on the watch dubbed, naturally, the Divers Seventy-Five.  The Divers Seventy-Five brings back the dateless dial with the retro Arabic numerals marking the cardinal hours. The design feels right at home in the new color scheme, which consists of brown and orange tones throughout the steel case and bracelet. The result is a look that certainly won’t be for everyone, but offers one of the more inventive takes on the watch we’ve seen yet. The color scheme at work here takes inspiration from ‘70s California design according to Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly of the Collective, and when set into that context, takes on a slightly different character than your typical brown dial or two-tone watch. The Divers Seventy-Five is built into a 40mm steel case that’s accented by Oris’ bronze bezel and affixed to their bi-metal steel and bronze bracelet, leaning fully into the funky vibes that start at the dial. This is a case we’re fond of ar...

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey” SJX Watches
Tudor Nov 7, 2023

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”

After shading the Aqua Terra Worldtimer line in greys and greens, Omega debuts the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”. A new take on its dive-ready GMT, the watch  is named after the dark grey ceramic case, which harnesses the material’s hardness while staying lightweight thanks to the extensive use of titanium for its internals, including the movement bridges. Initial thoughts Titanium and ceramic are not noteworthy in themselves, but here the materials are combined in an interesting and functional manner. The scratch resistance of ceramic is useful for the case, while the titanium inner components keep the weight down, a helpful characteristic for a big watch. And the materials also create a shades-of-grey appearance that gives the watch a sense of seriousness – with the orange accents bringing some tasteful contrast – though it is less stark compared to its all-black ceramic sibling.  Thought lighter than usual for a watch of its size, the new GMT is a big watch measuring 45.5 mm in diameter, making it quite a bit bigger than comparable watches from Tudor for instance.  It would be more wearable and have a wider appealing if the case was in the range of 41 mm to 42 mm. Despite its material attractions, however, the GMT “Dark Grey” is expensive at US$22,200. It is  almost twice as expensive as the same model in black ceramic (that admittedly doesn’t have a titanium movement). Despite the titanium components, the price is hard to justify since it i...

Watch Engravings: Historic Examples and Ideas from Our Instagram Audie Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 6, 2023

Watch Engravings: Historic Examples and Ideas from Our Instagram Audie

Of all the elements that can make a watch special to its owner, few can compare to having it engraved - with a message, image, or other inscription that renders it uniquely personal to its owner. The art of engraving - i.e., carving characters or patterns into surfaces - goes all the way back to prehistoric cultures and watch engraving is a tradition that goes back all the way to the beginning of portable timepieces. The earliest examples can be found in pocket watches bearing royal crests and coats of arms for aristocrats and royalty, who were, of course among, the first wearers of timepieces. As watch ownership became more widespread and democratized, the variety of such customizations widened. Some of the most significant watches throughout history have borne personalized engravings that speak to their famous provenance. As we explore further in this article, the most expensive Rolex watch ever sold at auction is a Daytona owned by actor/racing driver Paul Newman, inscribed not with his name but with a cautionary message from his wife, Joanne Woodward, “DRIVE CAREFULLY - ME.” Nowadays, just about any Daytona owner can choose to have it engraved, but the most prestigious models are the ones awarded to winning drivers at the 24 Hours of Daytona race, each of which is engraved - by Rolex - with the driver’s name. One of the world’s most valuable Omega watches is a yellow-gold Slimline model owned by President John F. Kennedy, inscribed “PRESIDENT OF THE...

‘Passion For Time’ Unbelievable Timepieces from A Single Owner | In Conversation with Remi Guillemin Revolution
Nov 6, 2023

‘Passion For Time’ Unbelievable Timepieces from A Single Owner | In Conversation with Remi Guillemin

Join Eleonor and Remi Guillemin, Head of Watches for Christie’s Europe, to explore the ‘Passion For Time’ auction which consist over 110 lots of the rarest and most desirable timepieces cultivated over four decades by the one and only Mr. Mohammed Zaman from Oman. The esteemed auction consists of a huge variety of extremely desirable […]

AVI-8 mark the 80th anniversary of 617 Squadron and Operation Chastise with the AV-4108 Dambuster Time+Tide
Nov 5, 2023

AVI-8 mark the 80th anniversary of 617 Squadron and Operation Chastise with the AV-4108 Dambuster

The AVI-8 AV-4108 Dambuster pays tribute to the 80th anniversary of the Dambuster Raids of 1943. It’s a followup to their Dambuster chronograph which has nearly sold out. £17 from each sale will go directly to helping people through the Royal British Legion’s poppy appeal. It’s safe to say that AVI-8 as a brand are … ContinuedThe post AVI-8 mark the 80th anniversary of 617 Squadron and Operation Chastise with the AV-4108 Dambuster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5110G Prototype Dial at Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Patek Philippe World Time Ref 5110G Nov 3, 2023

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5110G Prototype Dial at Sotheby’s

One of the interesting lots this auction season in Geneva is the Patek Philippe ref. 5110G world time with a prototype dial at Sotheby’s. Scheduled to go under the hammer on November 5, 2023, the watch fitted with a monochromatic printed dial marked “Prototype”. Patek Philippe prototypes, or even prototype dials, rarely emerge in public, so this world time is notable in itself. Another recent example of a prototype was the Aquanaut prototype that sold at Antiquorum in 2019 featuring a “comet” power reserve that was never found on the regular production model. Unlike the Aquanaut prototype, however, this world time only has a prototype dial. The watch itself is a standard ref. 5110G that’s accompanied by the usual guilloche dial as well as an archive extract. According to Sotheby’s, the consignor of the watch is a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe for many years, so he presumably installed the prototype dial on a regular production ref. 5110G. Although simpler than the standard dial, the prototype dial is certainly more interesting. The central portion is a plain, flat white with black print, while the cities disc is off white. The dial is hardly fancy but possesses a clean, functional aesthetic that is strangely appealing. Moreover it runs counter to the prevailing Patek Philippe aesthetic that favours guilloche and applied numerals, making it visually unique. The simplicity of the dial, however, means it might have been a test dial installed in a proto...

The 17 Best Dive Watches Under $500 Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 3, 2023

The 17 Best Dive Watches Under $500

Dive watches continue to reign as one of the most popular timepiece styles out there, and the sheer breadth of choices in that genre - in the areas of size, design, colorway, and especially pricing - can be intimidating to the new watch enthusiast who might be just on the verge of taking the plunge (you should pardon the expression) into purchasing their first dive watch. Here we've gathered a dozen of our favorites with the budget-conscious consumer in mind: everything on this list can be had for $500 or under. (In a few cases, even though the MSRP comes in higher, you can acquire them below the $500 threshold directly from our online store; just follow the shopping links.) Casio Duro Price: $74.95, Case Size: 48.5mm x 44.2mm, Case Height: 12.1mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Quartz Analog Outside of its mega-popular G-Shock series (see directly below), It’s tempting to pigeonhole Casio as a maker of solely digital watches, but the brand also offers a handful of analog timepieces at similarly mass-market prices. Consider the Casio Duro, the Japanese manufacturer’s series of round-cased, analog-dial dive watches. At this very pedestrian price range, it is difficult to find a diver that offers what the Duro offers: a well-finished steel case, rotating dive-scale bezel with aluminum insert, 200-meter water resistance, and sunburst dial with lume-coated hands and indexes. The screw-down caseback sports an image of a Marlin, which als...

Tough and Technical Watches from Citizen: The Promaster Altichron and Promaster Tough Worn & Wound
Citizen Nov 3, 2023

Tough and Technical Watches from Citizen: The Promaster Altichron and Promaster Tough

As a watchmaker, Citizen is as diversified as any in regards to the sheer breadth and width of its catalog. Collectors can get lost in the histories of cult classic dive watches while marveling at modern atomic timing tech. If there were two core attributes across Citizen’s diverse offerings, they could be summed up as “tough” and “technical”. Chalk it up to Japanese excellence or decades of innovation – either way you are getting a solid product. The modern lineup of Promaster watches epitomizes the toughness and technical know-how of Citizen. It is considered the “Professional” line of watches, and here are two models to consider adding to your arsenal for your next adventure. As a watchmaker, Citizen is as diversified as any in regards to the sheer breadth and width of its catalog. Collectors can get lost in the histories of cult classic dive watches while marveling at modern atomic timing tech. If there were two core attributes across Citizen’s diverse offerings, they could be summed up as “tough” and “technical”. Chalk it up to Japanese excellence or decades of innovation – either way you are getting a solid product. The modern lineup of Promaster watches epitomizes the toughness and technical know-how of Citizen. It is considered the “Professional” line of watches, and here are two models to consider adding to your arsenal for your next adventure. The post Tough and Technical Watches from Citizen: The Promaster Altichron and Promaster ...

Ophion is Back with the Vesper, Featuring a Design Inspired by Neoclassical Architecture Worn & Wound
Nov 3, 2023

Ophion is Back with the Vesper, Featuring a Design Inspired by Neoclassical Architecture

To this day, one of my favorite reviews that I’ve written for the website is that of the Ophion 786 Velos. Sometimes, you get a watch in your hands and it just kind of blows you away, shifting your perspective about what’s possible in a particular genre or price bracket. It can also subtly change your own taste. I still think about those Ophions fondly, and have been excitedly awaiting new work from the brand. Today, Ophion introduces the 411 Vesper, which feels like a significant step forward for the brand in terms of their ambition and the levels of intricacy introduced into the manufacturing process, particularly with respect to the dial.  The Vesper’s design inspiration comes from an influential work of architecture that was never actually built. The Newton Cenotaph, a conceptual work by the architect Étienne-Louis Boullée designed as a tribute to the English scientist, is dominated by an enormous spherical structure 500 feet tall, surrounded by two circular barriers dotted with cypress trees. Boullée was particularly interested in spherical shapes, and his work includes a study referred to as his “theory of bodies” which asserts that the sphere is nature’s most beautiful and perfect shape.  The Newton Cenotaph Ophion’s new Vesper incorporates many of the key design ideas from the Cenotaph into the watch itself. First and foremost, spheres and circular shapes are everywhere. Not just within the dial, but the case (39mm in diameter, 11.45mm tall) , lu...

[VIDEO] Review: The Delightfully Odd Longines HydroConquest GMT Worn & Wound
Longines HydroConquest GMT Watches Nov 2, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: The Delightfully Odd Longines HydroConquest GMT

Watches that break from conventional wisdom tend to provide the most memorable experiences on the wrist. We search out such examples around here and embrace new watches that aren’t afraid to cut against the grain in some way, shape, or form. Doing so presents a risk for brands, particularly large, well established brands. A by-the-numbers design meant to appeal to the largest possible swath of the population must, by definition, be as inoffensive as possible. Deviation from the template risks putting out a percentage of would-be buyers, but it also creates grounds for differentiation, a necessity in today’s crowded landscape of watch brands young and old. Achieving balance here means a design that’s unique and exciting, while being accessible enough to sell to enough people to make it work financially.  Generally, the larger the brand the safer they play with this equation. But that’s not always the case, as many large brands still produce polarizing yet recognizable watches that have a focused appeal to a group of die hard fans. I’ll let you conjure up your own examples of watches that fall into this category. One such testament is the Longines HydroConquest, a watch with a big personality that’s been emblematic of the era it was originally designed in, the mid ‘00s. Longines was ahead of the game when it introduced the HydroConquest in 2007, presenting a fully modern, forward looking take on a serious dive watch at Baselworld, and even offered in both 39 a...

Introducing Balmont, a French Brand Offering a Unique “Treasure Hunt” Experience for their Owners Worn & Wound
Nov 2, 2023

Introducing Balmont, a French Brand Offering a Unique “Treasure Hunt” Experience for their Owners

Something I’ve observed over the last few years is that watches as a hobby have grown to a point where you could make an argument that they’re really no longer a niche any longer. It used to be that watch collecting was thought of as strange, or misunderstood, but we are so many steps beyond that point that there are experienced collectors in the hobby who don’t even remember it. That means that the landscape is increasingly competitive, and brands need to work harder and harder to set themselves apart from the pack. Increasingly, we see brands incorporating unique experiences into the watch purchasing process, and a new brand with roots in French watch media, Balmont, has taken this to an unexpected new level.  Balmont is the product of a collaboration between a group of watch industry veterans based in France, including Benjamin Chamfeuil, founder of the watch brand Vasco, and Ludovic Barrois, who is behind Le Petit Poussoir, a leading French language watch blog. At first glance, the initial collection from the brand, the BDX series, would appear to be a fairly standard issue sports watch. They are nice looking in a kind of classic way, with clean dials in white, gray, silver and black, and a 40mm stainless steel case. There are small premium details here and there that underscore the pedigree of the people behind the brand – they know what enthusiasts will appreciate. The white dial, for example, has a ceramic coating, and hand applied indices have been physica...

Breguet Navigates Tradition and Ambition with the Marine Tourbillon 5577 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Nov 2, 2023

Breguet Navigates Tradition and Ambition with the Marine Tourbillon 5577

In the realm of haute horlogerie, few names hold the same level of esteem and reverence as Breguet. The newly unveiled Breguet Marine Tourbillon 5577 is no doubt intended as a tribute to the brand’s visionary founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, by drawing inspiration from his deep ties to maritime navigation, astronomy, and the spirit of innovation.  Initial thoughts By introducing a tourbillon for the first time in the Marine collection, Breguet aims to leverage the prestige of the complication to enhance its sport watch offering. Like many other Breguet complications, the Marine tourbillon possesses a high level of quality, particularly in the sophisticated and impressively constructed movement that’s just 3 mm high, making its one of the thinnest tourbillon calibres on the market. The thinness gives the watch elegant proportions, despite the relatively wide case that’s 42.5 mm, as it stands well under 10 mm high. Besides its height, the cal. 581 is notable for having a decoration unique to this watch. The Geneva stripes are modified to feature engraved channels separating the stripes, creating the impression of a sailboat’s decking. However, the devoted Breguet purist might see the addition of a tourbillon to the Marine as a departure from tradition, likely driven by the ambition to compete with comparable sports watches like the Vacheron Constantin Overseas and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.  Abraham-Louis Breguet never incorporated a tourbillon into a marine chronom...

The Studio Underd0g 02Series Field is now available for pre-orders Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g Nov 2, 2023

The Studio Underd0g 02Series Field is now available for pre-orders

Following the highly anticipated launch of the brand’s new design, the Studio Underd0g Field collection is finally available for pre-orders. Though they’re by no means your bog-standard, military issue field watch, the Pink Lem0nade, Steffany Blue, Full Mo0n and Midnight models bring a unique dial construction to the table, alongside plenty of lume. Enquire about … ContinuedThe post The Studio Underd0g 02Series Field is now available for pre-orders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Revamps Their Avenger Collection Worn & Wound
Breitling Revamps Their Avenger Collection Nov 1, 2023

Breitling Revamps Their Avenger Collection

Breitling is keeping their foot on the gas in redesigning their core collection of aviation watches, and this time they’ve updated their modern pilot range, the Avenger collection. As opposed to Breitling’s other collections, such as the Navitimer and the AVI, the Avenger is relatively new with just over 20 years under its belt. As such, the design feels anchored in a very different aesthetic, which has now been updated to slightly more modern sensibilities while still being a familiar sight overall. The new Avenger collection welcomes a chronograph, a GMT, and time and date watches, each with a variety of options totaling 11 new references altogether.  The Aveneger has always been an aviation watch aimed at the more extreme end of things, proudly boasting the winged B logo on its dial and an unorthodox design to suit the needs of the jet pilots it was intended for. The latest generations looks to smooth out a few of the rough edges, and create a design some may consider more palatable to a wider audience. In the process, the Avenger doesn’t quite have the same impact it once had, but will it be more approachable as a result? The new collection ditches the winged B logo, opting for the large scripted B instead, leaving the Professional collection as the last holdout for the classic rendition. The distinctive bezel with heavy block section added to the cardinal positions remains, though in a slightly less aggressive manner than we’ve seen it in the past. This may b...

Hands On: An Impressively Preserved Rolex Ref. 6062 SJX Watches
Rolex Ref 6062 Arguably Nov 1, 2023

Hands On: An Impressively Preserved Rolex Ref. 6062

Arguably the most storied Rolex model in history, more so than the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the ref. 6062 triple calendar is beautiful, and unusually for Rolex, complicated. At the same time, the ref. 6062 boasts the trademark water-resistant Oyster case, something that its closest cousin, the ref. 8171 “Padellone” triple calendar, lacks. Soon to go under the hammer at Phillips in Geneva is a particularly impressive example of the ref. 6062. While there have been more storied examples of the ref. 6062 sold in recent years – including the “Bao Dai” owned by the last emperor of Vietnam – the upcoming ref. 6062 is possibly the best preserved. It is a steel example, and while a steel ref. 6062 is rare, the condition of this watch truly sets it apart. The case appears original in shape and detail, though it shows wear; modest wear considering the seven decades since the watch was made. Phillips describes the case as “unpolished” and while that cannot be ascertained with absolutely certainty, the claim is certainly a credible one. The Oyster case has its full shape, defined edges, and even the tiny step at the very top of the bezel where it meets the crystal. More so than any of the other external components, the case back of this model typically shows the most obvious wear as the engravings are shallow. But here the original engravings look almost like they did fresh out of the factory, right down to the rectangular blocks separating the two lines of text. Int...