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Quill & Pad
Is a new dial color a new watch? Technically speaking, probably not. But a dial can make all the difference in a watch's character, which A. Lange & Söhne highlights with three new additions to the Saxonia collection. Even among the classically inclined collections of A. Lange & Söhne, for Martin Green the Saxonia line is the home of the brand’s ultimate dress watch.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Despite the challenges that we have all faced in 2020, the watch manufacturers of the world have still managed to turn out a very decent crop of new releases this year. For Buffy, though, there were three standout pieces that we’ll take a closer look at here. Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer There … ContinuedThe post LIST: Buffy’s 3 favourite watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Watch consumers are always looking for a fresh new face to add to their wrists and collections. The irony, however, is we also tend to flock to familiar designs – references we believe are iconic. So how do we solve this problem? As per usual, Bamford has the answer. The Bamford Watch Department is known … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Marking the 15th anniversary of the brand’s most robust and distinctive collection, Ball launches the new Engineer Hydrocarbon Original. We had the watch as a daily beater for about a week, and here is our in-depth review, and explore the technical features. Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original Ref. DM2118B-SCJ-BK Retail price: SGD 4,250 inclusive of GSTRead More
SJX Watches
Alongside the unusual R500 “bullhead” chronograph, Sinn’s new debuts for the year include a pair of entry-level “tool” watches. The Series 105 is comprised of two models – 105 St Sa and 105 St Sa UTC – that are reminiscent of classic pilot’s watches, but in a clean, modern style with a dial populated by geometric shapes. Both are dual time zone watches, but executed differently. The 105 St Sa UTC is similar to a traditional GMT watch, having an additional 24-hour hand as well as a 24-hour rotating bezel. More unusual is the base model 105 St Sa, which has a bezel with two separate scales – 12-hour and 60-minute markings – that allows for measuring short elapsed times as well as tracking a second time zone. 105 St Sa (left) and 105 St Sa UTC Initial thoughts Starting at €1,350 for the base model, and rising to €1,790 for the UTC on a steel bracelet, the 105 is a value buy that manages to differentiate itself from the numerous “tool” watches in the same price segment. It has roots in Sinn’s Pilot Watch 104 – the brand’s long-standing, entry-level aviator’s watch – but the 105 is different enough to make it stand out. To start with, the dial design is simple but smart. The base model, for instance, manages to incorporate a day and date display in a symmetrical manner, preserving both legibility and balance. At the same time, the colours are unusual, especially the white and orange combination that is just as functional but avoids the all...
Deployant
To begin a year of celebration of the 140th anniversary of the establishment by Kintaro Hattori in 1881, Seiko Watch Corporation releases a new edition of Credor Eichi II – in a Platinum 950 case and, for the first time, a blue dial. Credor and Micro Artist Studio Press Release details with links to earlierRead More
Deployant
We get hands-on with the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph, introduced in Watches & Wonders Digital Edition in earlier this year. The watch is already in the boutiques and available for sale. Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph In this novelty, Vacheron Constantin unites two coveted technical complications under the Traditionelle banner: the monopusher chronograph,Read More
Deployant
This spring, Chopard will proudly reprise its role as main sponsor and official timekeeper of Italy’s world famous Mille Miglia classic car rally, a position it has held continuously since 1988. Each year, Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has demonstrated his passion for automobiles by competing in the gruelling, 1,000-mile contest that runs from Brescia to Rome and back – and each year the Maison produces a new Mille Miglia watch collection to celebrate what is regularly described as 'the most beautiful race in the world'.
Time+Tide
Within the watch community, you will hear the phrase “in the metal” a fair bit. With some watches it is as simple as paying a quick visit to an authorised dealer to become more acclimated with a watch. However, not all watches are available to view in-store – and no, this is not a conversation … ContinuedThe post Getting some Eichi, or Wisdom, from macro monster @horomariobro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Phillips Watches to auction Paul Newman’s other Daytona and one of six Monacos sourced for McQueen’s 1970 film, Le Mans at their 2020 New York sale
WatchAdvice
Just in time for Australian Summer, Breitling has released a new set of watches that is, as they state, the “ultimate athleisure watch”. The Breitling Endurance Pro comes as part of the brand’s Professional range and is a timepiece that is not only made for athletes, but for people that love the outdoors and active lifestyles. The Breitling Endurance Pro is essentially a luxury sports watch. Combining innovative materials with a sense of artistic style, this latest creation by the Swiss brand has high precision, vibrant colour design and the robustness to make it a hit among sporting enthusiasts. The Endurance Pro fits perfectly into the world of sports, in which Breitling already has quite a history. In motorsport, Breitling has sponsored Bentley at Le Mans, while also having a longstanding partnership with the car brand in general. In the world of cycling, Breitling has already partnered with major competitions, such as Giro d’Italia and Tour de France along with cycling legends Fausto Coppi and Gino Bartali. Breitling has been offering timepieces with sports functions for a long time now, and the Endurance Pro is the latest to continue this tradition. Breitling, a brand that used to be synonymous with aviation, today, stands for accessible sports. Sports such as running, cycling and swimming. High-performance activities that are not just limited to professionals but sports everyone can enjoy. In fact, there can be no better endorsement for the Breitling Endu...
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross’ integrated-bracelet sports watch gets an upgrade this year, with the bigger, and arguably better, BR 05 Chrono. The new chronograph retains the design of the basic BR 05, but incorporates 1970s racing-chronograph style with its twin square registers. At the same time, the case design and finish work better on the larger format, but the case of the chronograph is surprisingly thin, resulting in an unusually slim profile on the wrist for what it is. Initial thoughts In the heavily-populated category of integrated-bracelet sports watches, the best value is typically found at the less obvious brands. In its class, the Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono is just excellent, and so is the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner, albeit in a higher price class. In the affordable category, the BR 05 does well. The three-hands-and-date BR 05 is solidly executed and well priced, but looks and feels a little small, despite being 40 mm (and the skeleton version of the same is cooler but pricey). The best feature of the BR 05 is the case, which is neatly finished and nicely detailed, particularly in its price segment. The new BR 05 Chrono fixes the size issue. It retains the same case and finishing, but grows it to 42 mm. The larger size is just right – the proportions that suit the look of the watch. And design-wise the chronograph also works better – and looks more distinct than its time-only counterpart. The chronograph has a 1970s-racing-watch vibe, rather than the fashionable an...
Time+Tide
One of the more surprising watches of 2019 was Chopard’s Alpine Eagle. Based on the Swiss outfit’s St. Moritz wristwatch of the 1980s, here was an entirely new take on the luxury stainless steel sports watch with integrated bracelet. It was, and still is, an important timepiece for Chopard as it’s the watchmaker’s best attempt … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Jean-Claude Biver and his team bought Hublot 24 years ago. At that time it was a tiny brand, big in Spain, but netting $24-million. But Biver considered that it had reached less than 20% of its potential and could be a mega-brand, with its youthful re-casting of luxury in a more casual, sporty and fun … ContinuedThe post “We thought the world needed a luxury Swatch watch.” Explosive Jean-Claude Biver interview tells the Hublot story like never before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
TAG Heuer introduces the Monaco Chronograph 39mm Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic with a brand-new bracelet designed for the watch.
SJX Watches
Conceived to mark a major occasion for its hometown, the Nomos Lambda 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte is a limited edition with a glossy lacquer dial that’s unusual for the brand. But it is more notable for being the first time Nomos is making its top-of-the-line watch available in steel. As a result, the new Lambda is far more affordable, despite being a limited edition. Initial thoughts Introduced in 2013 alongside its discontinued, tonneau-shaped sibling, the Lambda was Nomos’ first upscale watch and available only in an 18k gold case. Despite its qualities, the Lambda was expensive for Nomos, a brand that does simple, affordable watches well. Very expensive, in fact, with the base model in gold priced at US$17,000. It was too much of a stretch for Nomos to reach that high in the price spectrum. So the new steel Lambda makes a lot of sense. It keeps the ultra-clean dial design of the original Lambda, as well as the attractively-finished movement, while making it far more affordable. At US$7,500, it costs less than half the cheapest gold Lambda. For anyone who likes the original Lambda but couldn’t stomach the price, this is perhaps the perfect watch. That said, US$7,500 is still a lot for a Nomos. While the brand can compete strongly in its core price range of US$2,000-4,000, competition is tougher over US$7,000. For similar money, one can get an Glashütte Original, Ulysse Nardin, or much else. A 42 mm Lambda in 18k rose gold Minor refinements The 175th annivers...
Revolution
How a watch from the annals of military history-and a brand that embodies Italian swagger-redefined “cool” for a new generation of collectors.
SJX Watches
Once an American watchmaker that was a global giant, Hamilton is today a Swiss brand best known for its value-proposition, vintage-inspired watches – and providing watches for several Hollywood films. Its speciality is exemplified by watches like the Khaki Field Mechanical, a robust, military-style watch that costs less than US$500. Hamilton has just unveiled a new collection of affordable pilot’s watches, the Khaki Aviation Converter. The line up is made up of three watches – time and date, GMT, and chronograph – all equipped with a slide-rule bezel for cockpit calculations and conversions. From left: the base model automatic, the GMT, and the chronograph in two variants Initial thoughts As with the most of the watches in the Khaki collection, the Converter is appealing in design and no doubt solidly, if simply, constructed. While it might not be the most original in design – the slide-rule bezel is synonymous with Breitling’s Navitimer but used by many brands – the Converter is strong value. Starting at US$995 for the automatic and rising to US$2,145 for chronograph, the collection is a good entry into watches featuring a slide-rule bezel. The bezel features double-row knurling for good grip The generic design aside, it is heartening to see that attention has been paid to the details. With the large, luminous hands and contrasting colours, legibility appears good. The movements are visible through the case back, something that can be captivating for a beg...
Quill & Pad
Not only Martin Green thinks that a date has the power to swiftly ruin the appearance of a watch. But that didn't happen to Breguet's latest addition to the Tradition family, the smart Quantième Rétrograde 7597 with its clever new date function. See for yourself!
Time+Tide
Shock. That’s been the general consensus for the last few days among our enthusiast community. Rolex has just unveiled the all-new Rolex Submariner Date 41mm Ref.126610LN, and they’ve made one of the biggest changes to the dive watch in its 51 years of existence. For the first time in the legendary moniker’s history, the Oyster … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The legend of the Rolex Submariner Date 41mm Ref.126610LN grows (by 1mm) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Rolex last did a major revamp for its iconic dive watch in 2012, when it introduced the ceramic insert bezel and beefier case. Eight years later the Submariner is once again refashioned and upgraded. It still retains the classic look that has changed little since the 1950s, but in typical Rolex style the new Submariner 41 mm boasts many incremental improvements, across the case, bracelet, and movement. The Submariner 41 mm is making its debut with eight different models, ranging from the no-date base model to the all-gold version, all powered by the cal. 3235 (except for the no-date that has the cal. 3230 inside). The Submariner ref. 124060 “no date” Initial thoughts The most monumental change – albeit one that is more obvious on paper than in person – is the upsized case. Forty-one millimetres is a first for the Submariner, with the preceding models having been being 40 mm for decades. However, the increase in size was not executed in isolation. The rest of the case was remodelled to fit, as was the bracelet, resulting in a pleasing, well-proportioned watch that doesn’t look as large as it sounds, and actually feels slimmer than it is. New movements Although everything about the new Submariner is new, arguably the most substantive change is the movement. The new models are the first Submariners to feature the current-generation cal. 3235 for the first time, although Rolex has been progressively installing new movements across the range for several years now. T...
Time+Tide
Green is known to be a special colour for Rolex. In recent eras, to buy a new Rolex sports watch that had any parts fabricated in this particular green you would have to secure a stainless steel Rolex Submariner “Hulk”, yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master II, or yellow gold Rolex Daytona. It is usually quite rare … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Rolex Submariner ref. 122610LV – the Ceramic “Kermit” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin has charged into the fray in 2020 with the release of the new Ulysse Nardin Blast, launched just before Geneva Watch Days. While the brand has an extensive archive of marine chronometers that have inspired a number of nautical-themed wristwatches, the design language of the Blast collection is unashamedly expressive in its ambition. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Ulysse Nardin Blast is a pyrotechnic expression of haute horology appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Now almost two decades into its foray into watchmaking, Louis Vuitton has progressively introduced more complicated timepieces, an evolution that accelerated after its takeover of Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFDT). Now Louis Vuitton’s signature complication, the Spin Time that tells the time with jumping cubes was LFDT’s earliest contributions to the trunk maker’s offerings. The latest variant of the complication is the Spin Time Air Japan Limited Edition. Drawing inspiration from the Japanese culture, the edition is made up of both a men’s and women’s model, each decorated with a motif that is distinctly Japanese. Initial thoughts With both versions having the same 42.5 mm Tambour case – tambour is French for drum and the very first case design of the brand – they are largish watches with great wrist presence, but they sit high on the wrist due to the case thickness (which is a consequence of the complication). But thanks to the relatively short lugs the case wears quite well. The case, however, is well proportioned – the large size suits the unique time display, with sufficient empty space to showcase the floating Spin Time complication. Reminiscent of the work of independent watchmakers like Urwerk and Ludovic Ballouard, the Spin Time display is inventive and different, but also easy to read, illustrating Louis Vuitton’s investment in making watches. But it is expensive, starting at US$80,000 for the men’s version. Japanese...
Time+Tide
Coming in hot like a Ki Blast, G-Shock is expanding its releases in collaboration with the internationally renowned Dragon Ball Z franchise across the globe. And this new GA110JDB is both the ultimate wristwear for Dragon Ball Z fans, and a watch that – in general – makes perfect sense in 2020, because it’s wild. … ContinuedThe post The G-Shock x Dragon Ball Z Limited Edition GA110JDB-1A4 has the best backlit dial of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One year after the launch of its first collaboration with Japanese streetwear label A Bathing Ape (BAPE), Swatch has just announced the second edition of the Swatch x BAPE Big Bold. A limited edition of unknown quantity, the new line up is made up of three models, plus a more exclusive box set that Swatch has teased about but not yet announced. From left: Tokyo Black Multi Camo, Tokyo Grey Multi Camo, Tokyo White Multi Camo Initial thoughts The first Swatch x BAPE edition was made up of six watches, each dedicated to a different city, along with a sixth “global” model – resulting in six truly distinct designs, making the whole set desirable. On the other hand, the new edition pays homage to Tokyo, the birthplace of BAPE, and all three watches have the same design, namely a stamped camouflage pattern on the dial, making it arguably less interesting as a trio. The monochromatic dials accentuate the large 47 mm diameter, which is further emphasised by the copious negative space in the lower half of the dial. Though not as daring in terms of design as the first edition, the new Swatch x BAPE collection will probably be well received thanks to its affordability and fun styling. Tokyo White Multi Camo with copper dial and matching pin buckle Round two The new Swatch x BAPE watches are identical, except for the colours of the case and dial. The case is 47 mm and matte plastic, with the crown at two o’clock and an integrated silicon strap. The trademark BAPE camouflage...
Hodinkee
Just in time for summer, a new sport watch and resort wear collection.
SJX Watches
After an extended absence, Patek Philippe’s signature perpetual calendar chronograph is once again available in yellow gold with the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001. The new watch joins the platinum and rose gold versions currently in the catalogue, and is the first perpetual calendar chronograph in yellow gold since the ref. 5970J was discontinued in 2009. Initial thoughts The very first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph powered by an in-house movement, the ref. 5270 was introduced in 2011 but remains under appreciated, primarily because it isn’t one of the earlier perpetual calendar chronograph that are regarded as “iconic” (namely the refs. 5970, 3970, 2499 and 1518). But the ref. 5270 is excellent, or at least very good, in most tangible aspects. It’s a well-made watch with a smartly-constructed, modern movement inside robust-yet-elegant case of that sort that Patek Philippe excels at. And functionally it is also excellent, especially with the slightly larger calendar windows. Admittedly the movement finishing is not quite artisanal, but it is on par with other high-end brands that produce watches in substantial numbers, like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. It does costs more than what the competition charges for an equivalent watch, but the value of the Patek Philippe brand is tremendous. The ref. 5270J adds the option of a far more classical look to the line up. The combination of a silver dial and yellow gold case is the ...
SJX Watches
Founded only a decade ago, Ressence has already left an indelible impression on watchmaking. Lauded for a design philosophy that is centred on legibility, wearability and intuitive function, the brand’s unusual perspective is thanks to its founder Benoît Mintiens, an industrial designer by profession. To mark its 10th year, Ressence has debuted the Type 1 Slim X, the first of four watches in the commemorative Collection X – “X” being a Roman “10”. Limited to 40 watches, the new watch is essentially identical to the standard Type 1 Slim, but face-lifted with an intriguing dial in a single shade of olive green but finished with contrasting surfaces to achieve a two-tone effect. The remaining Collection X watches will be dressed in a similar shade of green. Initial thoughts I have long been fascinated by Ressence and its watches. The first time I laid eyes on a Ressence, I assumed that it was just an electronic watch with a high-pixel density display; the dial on it was truly flat. When I found out what it was – the effect was due to the oil-filled time display chamber – surprise was an understatement. They are in a class of their own in terms of design, and are, in fact, great examples of “postmodern” mechanical watchmaking. The dark olive dial on the anniversary Type 1 Slim is a first for the brand. The colour is attractive but not as widely used as I would like, with the exception of military-style timepieces, which this is definitely not. To see i...
Time+Tide
There’s very little that hasn’t been done in watchmaking. That’s part of what makes vintage-inspired new releases so popular among watch enthusiasts, especially for diving styles. Mido’s Ocean Star range has sat in this bracket, earning a good reputation for solidly built and classically handsome dive watches for their affordable cost; however, they toed the … ContinuedThe post The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 brings the colour we all need in a dark year at a budget-friendly price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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