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New: Zenith Defy 21 Urban Jungle: Hands On Review
Full hands on review of the new Zenith 2021 edition of a ceramic case in a cool urban green to their innovative Defy 21 chronograph collection.
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Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: With this razor-sharp trio, Hublot once again move the goalposts with the Big Bang Integral Ceramic
FINALLY! We cried in 2020 as Hublot unleashed their Integral series. With one fell swoop, the Masters of Bold brushed competition aside in the wristwatch MMA series of the Integrated Bracelet Battle For Supremacy. Ingeniously retaining the sharp design language of the Big Bang collection, now close to a contemporary classic, we got the chunkiest, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: With this razor-sharp trio, Hublot once again move the goalposts with the Big Bang Integral Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Arnold & Son introduces an 8 piece limited edition Perpetual Moon in an Japanese art themed “Year of the Ox”
Arnold & Son takes a decidedly Japanese art approach to the "Year of the Ox" 2021 with this new addition to their Perpetual Moon collection.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial
Last year, the time-only Octo Finissimo watches received a major upgrade in the form of a screw-down crown and improved depth rating of 100 metres. They also received contrasting finishes to the highly faceted surfaces of the case and bracelet. This resulted in a greater play with light and a watch that became both more … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “IWC Racing”: Haute Horlogerie Contrasts
The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon “IWC Racing” edition piques Joshua Munchow's interest thanks to its connection between time, flight, and mechanics. This latest iteration of the Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon is new for 2021 and provides an extremely attractive proposition for the historically minded pilot’s watch fan. Here Joshua explains why.
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: Shooting Watches With The Hasselblad X1D-50C - Reprise
GaryG ordered a Hasselblad X1D. He had never shot with a medium-format camera before, and the resolving power, color rendering, and ability to seemingly wrap light around a subject completely blew him away. So when Hasselblad announced that it would be offering a 120 mm macro lens for the X1D, he was among the very first to sign up. But did it make a difference in his watch photography?
Quill & Pad
Last Drop 1971 Blended Scotch Whisky: Is This The World’s Most Exclusive Whisky? - Reprise
The idea of Last Drop is to source rare and first-class spirits, usually with considerable age. Some of these products – and in the company's decade of operations, there have only been 13 releases – are extremely limited and seriously expensive. But is it worth it? Ken Gargett reverently sips a dram and shares the results with us here.
Time+Tide
Three years ago Andrew pulled apart a Hublot tourbillon and here’s what he found out…
Editor’s note: Nearly three years ago, although it seems like a lifetime, Andrew was able to visit the Complications Department of the Hublot Manufacture, and get up close and personal with a Hublot tourbillon. He admitted his terror of the mind-bending complexity involved in assembling the 69 different components that make up the tourbillon cage, … ContinuedThe post Three years ago Andrew pulled apart a Hublot tourbillon and here’s what he found out… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Recommended Reading: Will yet another auction record be broken this weekend? The world’s most complicated wristwatch is up for grabs…
This might be exactly what we need to start 2021 with a BANG, and signal what we all hope is a strong year of growth for both the watch industry and consumer market in general. Auction results are a very important marker of the market temperature, and as WatchPro reminded us, this weekend sees the … ContinuedThe post Recommended Reading: Will yet another auction record be broken this weekend? The world’s most complicated wristwatch is up for grabs… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hermès Arceau Grande Lune - our quick take on the elegant triple calendar moonphase
The new Arceau Grande Lune features a wider case and a deep blue dial with a sunburst motif. First revealed in 1978 by designer Henri d’Origny, the round watch was reinterpreted by imagining a classic and singular curve.
Quill & Pad
Watch Advertisements (Should) Invoke A Special Feeling, Here Are A Few That Work For Me - Reprise
Watch advertisements have always fascinated John Keil. If an ad is clever, funny, or invokes a special feeling within him, he is much more likely to make a purchase. Here he demonstrates a few ads that work for him and hopefully for you too.
Time+Tide
Blindsided by brilliance: three Grand Seiko watches from 2020 that we never saw coming
Grand Seiko and their meticulous artistry never cease to amaze me. Each watch has a rich back story with every dial tone, texture, case form and finish carefully selected in order to best convey the brand’s grammar of design. Their relationship with Japanese culture and the nature that surrounds their workshops really shines through in … ContinuedThe post Blindsided by brilliance: three Grand Seiko watches from 2020 that we never saw coming appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: McGonigle Tuscar One Of Ten - Reprise
For those of you who are regular readers of GaryG's “Behind the Lens” series, it’s no secret that he and his watch pals are big fans of independent watchmaking. Here Gary points his lens up close to a rare McGonigle Tuscar One Of Ten.
Time+Tide
Watches By Material: Four super-tough watches that use DLC coatings
DLC, or diamond-like carbon, is a great tool for watch manufacturers to leverage. It’s capable of not only changing the aesthetics, but also the durability of a timepiece. To get an idea of how tough DLC is, the material typically measures at 5000-9000HV on the Vickers hardness test. Essentially, this means that DLC is as … ContinuedThe post Watches By Material: Four super-tough watches that use DLC coatings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
100 Years Of The Cartier Tank Cintrée: 2021’s First Commemorative Centennial Limited Edition ‘Tanks’
Can a watch by Cartier really be underwhelming? Martin Green thinks so in the case of the new Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th anniversary limited edition. A stunning watch certainly, but so close to the 1921 original that he finds it just a bit too predictable. But that's not all that niggles him.
Time+Tide
As the doors open again, here are 3 watches you can only get in the Sydney Hublot boutique
Sydney’s New Year fireworks were more symbolic than ever this year, hopefully distancing us from so many of 2020’s bleak memories including lockdown and Trump. And what about online shopping? Clicking is easy don’t get me wrong, but go through your watch drawer and do the maths: how many pieces have you actually bought online … ContinuedThe post As the doors open again, here are 3 watches you can only get in the Sydney Hublot boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in Platinum with Blue Stella Dial at Sotheby’s
Having sold the first publicly-known Daytona “Zenith” in platinum, Sotheby’s is going to offer yet another. Once again a unique example, the Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16516 in platinum – and a blue-lacquer “Stella” dial – will go under the hammer at Sotheby’s Hong Kong watch auction in April 2021. “Sothebys is delighted to present this automatic Zenith Daytona rendered in platinum with a ‘Tiffany blue’ lacquered ‘Stella’ dial in April,” says Sam Hines, Sotheby’s head of watches, who adds, “Manufactured in 1998, this previously unknown watch comes from the same collection as the record-breaking platinum Daytona with hardstone lapis lazuli dial sold by Sotheby’s last year.” The “Tiffany blue” lacquered dial of the platinum Daytona that’ll be sold in April According to Sotheby’s, only five platinum Daytonas with the Zenith El Primero movement were made in the late 1990s, at the request of Rolex’s then chief executive Patrick Heiniger. Each example was unique in having a different dial, but all were equipped wit the same cal. 4030 derived from the Zenith El Primero, which was phased out in favour of the in-house cal. 4130 in 2000. The late Heiniger kept one for himself, and gifted the remainder to key business partners of Rolex. Sotheby’s has since sold two of the five, each achieving a record price for an automatic Daytona. The first was a wedding present to a member of the Gobbi family that owns the eponymous watch retailer in...
WatchAdvice
2021 Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review
Pros: El Primero 3600 movement with 1/10th of a second chronographTri-coloured dials add a touch of class Rolex Ceramic Daytona anyone? Cons: Some may find it heavy on the wrist after a long period of wearTo change links have to unscrew using two screwdriversSome may not appreciate the monochromatic oscillating weight Over All Rating: 8.1 Value for money – 8.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8/10 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Zenith has shown great success during the LVMH Watch Week 2020 in Dubai, which is why alongside other LVMH brands, they are now releasing their latest watches in a one-week online event. Zenith will put together a special presentation that is a mix of digital and physical representations to showcase the latest timepieces. Reference: 03.3100.3600/69.M3100 One of these latest models to leave the Zenith Manufacture is the new Chronomaster Sport. For Zenith, 2021 has been dubbed the year of the Chronomaster. The focus of the LVMH week for Zenith will of course then be on this latest Chronomaster Sport release, which features an evolved version of the El Primero movement, now being able to allow for 1/10th of a second measurement! Zenith CEO Julien Tornare spoke about the importance of LVMH event and also Chronomaster by stating that “My team and I are thrilled to finally be able to share with you something we’ve been working on for quite some time – a true evolution of a mod...
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Sport and El Primero 3600
Two years ago, when Zenith celebrated the semicentennial of the El Primero – the world’s first high-beat, automatic chronograph movement – a successor to the long-running workhorse was quietly unveiled as part of a three-piece set. Designed from ground up as a brand-new movement, the El Primero 3600 was equipped with modern tech and additional features, including twin chronograph seconds hands. But the movement never made it to regular production, until now. The El Primero 3600 finally becomes accessible with the new Chronomaster Sport, a new line of sports chronographs featuring a shiny black-ceramic bezel and two dial options. Initial thoughts The debut of El Primero 3600 two years ago was noteworthy, but it was lost amongst the tasteful remakes – case in point – created to commemorate the anniversary. Now that the vintage remakes have reached their end with the final instalment announced just recently, the new movement can take the stage. The El Primero 3600 is certainly an impressive upgrade and a completely different animal compared to the original El Primero. Most notable is the addition of a lightning central seconds that travels six times as fast, completing one revolution every 10 seconds, allowing it to measure 1/10th of a second. That truly unleashes the full potential of the El Primero movement, which runs at 10 beats a second, or 36,000 beats per hour. Technical ingenuity notwithstanding, the watch itself looks good, albeit slightly derivative. T...
Quill & Pad
RIP: Daniel Nebel Of Nord Zeitmaschine, The ‘Counterintuitive’ Independent Watchmaker
At the end of 2020, Elizabeth Doerr posted a typical end-of-the-year 'In Memoriam' story honoring the departed. A reader left a comment on that story that Daniel Nebel, the independent autodidact maker behind Nord Zeitmaschine, had also passed away in 2020. Having found confirmation, here is her small tribute to an imaginative independent technician.
SJX Watches
Living With: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue
H. Moser & Cie. launched the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph almost exactly a year ago with a launch edition of a 100 pieces that sold out quickly. I liked the watch when I first saw it in late 2019. Both its design and execution were done well, and the movement is special. Unlike many of its peers, the Streamliner is an original in a segment dominated by derivative watches. So when I was offered the chance to borrow the prototype for a few days – off the wrist of Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan, who had been wearing it skiing – it was an easy yes. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of the 1970s and 1980s sports watches – but not the obvious ones like the Nautilus and Royal Oak – the Streamliner is one of the few integrated-bracelet sports watches that isn’t derivative, which is a feat in itself. The “Funky Blue” version has exactly the same design and movement, but with a new dial in a graduated, metallic blue that’s even more striking. I do, however, miss the vertically-brushed finish on the dial of the launch edition, which was uncommon amongst Moser watches. The subtle, radially-brushed finish of the Funky Blue dial Aesthetic aside, a key part of its appeal lies in the HMC 902 movement, a calibre developed by Geneva specialist Agenhor. Not only is the construction clever, it is also good looking, despite its modern aesthetics. Traditionally-styled chronograph movements like the L951.1 of the Datograph are usually the most attractive, but the HMC 902 is...
Time+Tide
SPOTTED: 5 Instagram shots that show the Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection is even better in the wild
We’ve all been there. It’s inevitable as a watch collector. You see a new watch that’s been released and immediately fall in love with it. You can’t get it out of your head, until you finally give in, and track one down in the metal. But once you have it in your hands, you realise … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED: 5 Instagram shots that show the Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection is even better in the wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Yes, it’s yet another bronze watch. But here’s why the Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition matters…
Oris is well known in the watch world for making high quality timepieces that offer serious value. While less expensive than many of their competitors, Oris still uses top-notch materials like ceramic bezels and also now incorporates in-house calibers. By making the latest technology more accessible to buyers, the brand has cultivated a devout following. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Yes, it’s yet another bronze watch. But here’s why the Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition matters… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Business News: Richemont Sales Recover in Third Quarter
In the third quarter of its financial year – the three months to end-December 2020 – Richemont reported a modest recovery, with sales rising 5% over the same period a year before at constant exchange rates. This modest recovery was enough to moderate its results for the nine months to date, with revenue for the period down 14%, as compared to the drastic 38% plunge in sales for the first half of the year. Owners of over two dozen watch and jewellery brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai, the Swiss luxury conglomerate was buoyed by robust demand in Asia, its biggest regional market, as well as the Middle East and Africa. Combined, the two regions make up approximately half of Richemont’s global sales. The Asia Pacific enjoyed a 25% rise in sales, driven largely by exceptional demand in mainland China, where revenue rose an impressive 80% for the period, with sales in Taiwan also seeing a marked 29% increase – both consequence of a return to regular economic activity as the pandemic was brought under control, and the inability to travel and shop overseas. Paradoxically, the results in the Middle East were driven by a revival of tourist spending in Dubai as flights resumed, and domestic spending in Saudi Arabia where citizens cannot easily go abroad. This contributed towards a remarkable 27% increase in sales for the region. Elsewhere, sales too rose, albeit in smaller, single-digit increments. Bolstered by domestic demand, sales in the Americas rose by 3%. Jap...
Time+Tide
My three favourite Bulgari releases of 2020
Bulgari has enjoyed a real hot streak over the past few years, throwing their hat into the ring of haute ultra-thin watchmaking. The Octo Finissimo has delivered the most refreshing entry into the integrated-bracelet watch category with its distinct, architectural design unlike anything else in the market. To some, Bulgari designs still remain a matter … ContinuedThe post My three favourite Bulgari releases of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Rutherglen Muscats: Fortified Liquid Delights From A Historical Australian Wine Region
Ken Gargett remembers it as though it was yesterday: the aroma from this small glass was the most alluring, enticing, extraordinary thing he had ever smelled in his life. Indeed, the nose of a great Muscat is for him one of the three great aromas one can find in the world of wine (the other two being a first-class, mature champagne and a great Burgundy). In this story, he introduces us to the beautifully fragrant world of Australia's Rutherglen Muscats.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: The heartwarming tale of Baghdad’s last watch repairman
When we think of watchmakers, we immediately think of European and Japanese artisans. But to ensure our watches remain in tip-top shape, watchmakers around the world and of varying backgrounds all work hard to ensure the immortality of our timepieces. Earlier this month AFP via Prestige shone a spotlight on 52 year-old Youssef Abdelkarim, a … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The heartwarming tale of Baghdad’s last watch repairman appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
2021 Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Edition Review
Pros: Beautiful Bronze that will Patina over timeLatest calibre 401 with small seconds at 6’oclock and 5-day power reserveBeautiful blue dial and dial layout Cons: Some may find it pricyBlue woven elastic strap should have been an additional strapNo open case back to showcase the calibre 401 Overall Rating: 7.5 Value for money – 7.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 7.5/10Build Quality – 7.5/10 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Oris has come back to once again honour one of the most influential and inspirational figures of the 20th century, Carl Brashear. Keeping in the theme of Oris’s Carl Brashear limited edition watches of the past, this latest timepiece follows the same colour palette and similar design cues, with now being given the brand’s latest and greatest movement. The Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 limited edition is a special piece, and we at WatchAdvice were certainly happy to be one of the first to be able to review it! Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition However, before we get into the watch, it wouldn’t do it justice without knowing who Carl Brashear was and why he was so iconic in the diving world. Born in 1931, Carl Brashear was enlisted in the U.S Navy in 1948, just after the Navy was desegregated by the U.S President Harry S. Truman. Carl Brashear faced many hardships and hostility during his career, especially racism while attending diving school in Bayonne, New Jersey. Brashear’s first emplo...
Time+Tide
Battle of the Doxa colours! Cast your vote as the team fight over their favourite hit of dive-watch freshness.
We love the fresh pop of Doxa colours – what an easy way to brighten up your day. But what’s your favourite? Are you a monochrome black Shark Hunter, or an orange Professional traditionalist? We put this to the team in an editorial meeting and a heated discussion ensued, recorded for posterity by yours truly … ContinuedThe post Battle of the Doxa colours! Cast your vote as the team fight over their favourite hit of dive-watch freshness. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Hands-On with The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15500
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15000 is an excellent update to the basic Royal Oak model and a great all-around daily-wearer.