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Field Watch

The military-utility tool watch genre. WWI trench → WWII Dirty Dozen → MIL-W-46374 → Hamilton Khaki and Marathon GPM.

In-Depth – The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric, Sartorial Elegance and High-End Watchmaking Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Sartorial Elegance Sep 6, 2024

In-Depth – The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric, Sartorial Elegance and High-End Watchmaking

Coinciding with the arrival of Guido Terreni as CEO of the brand, high-end Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier has undergone a complete restructuring for the past years. This move was initiated by the launch of a significant collection, the Tonda PF, which not only modernized the vision we had of PF but also pushed it into […]

Grand Seiko Marks 20 Years of Spring Drive 9R SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Marks 20 Years Sep 5, 2024

Grand Seiko Marks 20 Years of Spring Drive 9R

Grand Seiko’s debuted its first-ever Spring Drive movement in 2004 with the cal. 9R65. Now the brand is marking 20 years of the 9R Spring Drive movement family with the Elegance Collection SBGY035 and SBGA499, both sporting striking red dials inspired by the sunlit autumn scenery around Mount Hotaka. Part of the Thin Dress Series, the SBGY035 is flat and elegant, with a domed, textured dial. On the other hand, SBGA499 employs the classic Grand Seiko case and bracelet, matched with a sunburst-brushed dial in red that has the signature Spring Drive power reserve indicator at eight o’clock. The SBGA499 Initial thoughts I am a Grand Seiko fanboy. The brand offers a strong value proposition across its catalogue. Furthermore, Spring Drive is synonymous with Grand Seiko. The hybrid approach of Spring Drive means it boasts quartz-level accuracy despite being having an entirely mechanical mainspring and gear train. The new pair are perfect representations of Grand Seiko’s approach to horology, both good and bad. The two watches are striking, especially since red isn’t a colour often employed by Grand Seiko. The SBGY035 in particular stands out since the textured red dial is uncommon for Grand Seiko and dress watches in general. The SBGY035 That said, Grand Seiko’s limited editions feel too frequent, especially since many are only colour variations of each other. This is a regular criticism of Grand Seiko, but it hasn’t dampened sales of such limited editions, which pro...

Introducing: The Turquoise-Dial Grand Seiko SLGA025 And Icy-Looking SBGH347 Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGA025 Sep 2, 2024

Introducing: The Turquoise-Dial Grand Seiko SLGA025 And Icy-Looking SBGH347

Don’t you love how the designers at Grand Seiko keep using Japanese natural phenomena and settings as inspiration? Of course, I’m not a fan of all Grand Seiko watches, but I enjoy reading through the press releases and looking up the places and things from which the dial colors and textures are derived. It’s like […] Visit Introducing: The Turquoise-Dial Grand Seiko SLGA025 And Icy-Looking SBGH347 to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Urwerk EMC SR-71 Vs. MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 Fratello
Urwerk EMC SR-71 Vs MB&F; Sep 1, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Urwerk EMC SR-71 Vs. MB&F; HM8 Mark 2

Our Sunday Morning Showdowns are usually quite sensible. Okay…relatively sensible. We often pit two attainable everyday watches against each other to see which wins the popular vote. Well, today is a bit different. Today, we have a brawl between two Nouvelle Horlogerie watches that, unless you are reading this from the sundeck of your 200-foot […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Urwerk EMC SR-71 Vs. MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 to read the full article.

First Look – The Speake Marin Ripples Skeleton, with new High-Frequency Movement Monochrome
Speake-Marin Aug 29, 2024

First Look – The Speake Marin Ripples Skeleton, with new High-Frequency Movement

While immediately recognizable thanks to its signature Piccadilly case, which is found in its emblematic Openworked and Academic collections, Speake Marin decided in 2022 that it was time to join the all-important sporty-chic category, with its own vision of a watch with an integrated bracelet. This took the shape of an original watch named Ripples, […]

Albishorn Debuts with the Maxigraph SJX Watches
Massena Lab Aug 29, 2024

Albishorn Debuts with the Maxigraph

Amongst the brands making their debut this summer is Albishorn, which has teamed up with Massena LAB for the Maxigraph, a vintage-inspired regatta timer with a proprietary movement. The Maxigraph is the first watch from Albishorn, a new brand founded by Sébastien Chaulmontet. A lawyer by training, Dr Chaulmontet pivoted to build a career in the watch industry, designing movements at La Joux-Perret and most recently, Sellita. Initial thoughts The Maxigraph is an impressive debut from Dr Chaulmontet. Though arguably similar in concept to other Massena LAB projects, the Maxigraph feels more original since it’s not anchored to any particular historical brand. The bright red chronograph pusher at nine o’clock, for example, is not something you’d see in a vintage catalogue. The polychromatic sector dial and bi-directional rotating bezel are attractive and legible, while the semi-circular countdown register and running indicator add a pleasing degree of asymmetry to the design. The asymmetry continues at night, with an unusual pattern and the use of both green and blue Super-LumiNova for the hour and minute hands, respectively. One of the most appealing characteristics of the Maxigraph is its case, which calls to mind oversized tool watches like the Longines ref. 5824 military chronograph. But unlike that 47 mm beast, the Maxigraph is a manageable 41 mm at the bezel (sloping inwards to just 39 mm at the case middle). The case thickness of 13 mm is typical for this type o...

Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration with Artist Felipe Pantone Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration Aug 27, 2024

Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration with Artist Felipe Pantone

Over the past few years, Zenith’s limited edition releases made in collaboration with Felipe Pantone have been a highlight among the deluge of collaborative limited editions that have become so popular as of late. The Zenith x Pantone pieces tend to feel like little pieces of art, which is appropriate when the collaborate is a visual artist. These collaborations also seem to be right at home within the Defy line, a collection that has embraced a flair for color and the avant-garde as long as it has been in existence. The latest release from the pair is perhaps their most ambitious yet, and marks the first time Pantone has had a hand in a watch in the current Defy Skyline collection.  The Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone takes what is almost certainly the brand’s most exotic Defy and gives it a blast of the chromatic and optical touches that Pantone is known for. The tourbillon, of course, is the literal centerpiece of the design, and the bridge has been refashioned here as a lightning bolt, a motif found throughout Pantone’s work. Its colorful gradient and metallic finish is reminiscent of the finishing that made the first Pantone collaboration such a standout.  While the previous Felipe Pantone collaborations have featured dials that are largely skeletonized, a different approach was taken with the new Defy Skyline Tourbillon. The dial is a large sapphire disc and has been micro-engraved with a pattern of concentric circles. This “moire” effect is anothe...

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: the Pendulum Clock and Improving the Accuracy of Timekeeping Worn & Wound
Aug 27, 2024

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: the Pendulum Clock and Improving the Accuracy of Timekeeping

Editor’s Note: Today, a new series from Andrew Canter: the Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. In this first installment, Andrew looks at the pendulum clock, an invention largely taken for granted today, but one which led to virtually every horological advancement commonly known. It also had a profound ripple effect on how we live our lives, allowing human beings the ability the schedule events with a level of precision previously impossible.  In 16th century London, only the very wealthy owned domestic clocks, watches and sundials. Inventories of their property suggest that most clocks and watches were imported from Germany, France and the Low Countries (see below). By about 1600 however, a small group of makers had become established in the City of London. King Henry VIII (1509 – 1547) and his successors encouraged foreign makers and mathematicians to settle in London and bring their skills with them. Sir Thomas More, his father, his household and his descendants by Rowland Lockey, after Hans Holbein the Younger oil on canvas, 1593 © National Portrait Gallery, London Portrait of Lady Bolle, Circle of Paul Van Somer, London 1627. Portrayed wearing a set of superb matching jewellery, which includes a fine ruby-set watch, with its key. Image Courtesy of the Science Museum Group/The Clockmakers’ Museum © The Board of Trustees of the Science Museum, London As the market for clocks and watches grew in London, more and more immigrant makers made their way to t...

More Surprising Releases Of 2024 - Unexpected Wristwear From Rolex, Omega, Credor, And More Fratello
Omega Credor Aug 24, 2024

More Surprising Releases Of 2024 - Unexpected Wristwear From Rolex, Omega, Credor, And More

Let’s face it: 2024 didn’t come loaded with optimism from brands, so we weren’t expecting big changes. Watches and Wonders was filled with evolutionary timepieces and studied tweaks, and the most surprising releases of 2024 so far caught us napping. It might have taken less to surprise me this fairly quiet year, but I’ve still […] Visit More Surprising Releases Of 2024 - Unexpected Wristwear From Rolex, Omega, Credor, And More to read the full article.

Our Favorite G-Shock Watches Of All Time Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 23, 2024

Our Favorite G-Shock Watches Of All Time

We are back with another roundup by our editorial team, this time focused on G-Shock. Our objective this time was simple: to pick the G-Shock which got us into G-Shock in the first place. This doesn’t necessarily mean we are choosing a watch we own, or even have owned (though both of those scenarios are covered in these paragraphs) but rather the G-Shock that opened are eyes to a brand which – to put it mildly – has garnered a fanatical audience. So behold our entirely subjective list of what amounts to our favorite G-Shock watches. Let us know what models got you into G-Shock in the comments below! Mark Bernardo: MTGB1000 Unlike many of my peers who found themselves drawn into a career in watch journalism, my road to watch appreciation didn’t run through the G-Shock. I have worn a watch for as long as I can remember but I have always been, for the most part, an analog guy: Timexes, Fossils, the Victorinox Swiss Army pilot’s watch I bought myself with my first sizable tax refund as a gainfully employed young adult. When I started as a writer and editor specializing in timepieces, my initial take on the model was probably something like, “Casio G-Shock? Isn’t that what all those officers are wearing when they’re cuffing perps on Cops?” Having now outed myself as someone who watched Cops, I can now also admit that my narrow perception began to change drastically after a fateful press trip to Japan in the late 2000s - the first time, I was told back the...

Business News: Chanel Takes 25% Stake in MB&F; SJX Watches
F.P. Journe believed Aug 22, 2024

Business News: Chanel Takes 25% Stake in MB&F;

Proving recent rumours to be true, MB&F; has just announced that Chanel now owns 25% of the company. The terms of the deal were not disclosed but it is likely that the valuation of the independent watchmaker not far from the CHF120 million mark. Though meaningful in the context of independent watchmaker, it is a small investment for Chanel, which had 2023 revenues of almost US$20 billion. MB&F; will continue to be controlled by founder Maximilian Büsser (above left), who pares his stake down to 60% stake, while his longtime deputy, Serge Kriknoff, continues with a 15% share in the brand best known for its sculptural, sci-fi creations. The pair were the only shareholders in the brand prior to the Chanel investment. The MB&F; HM11 A major player behind the scenes With its MB&F; investment, Chanel continues to grow its presence in watchmaking, particularly independent watchmaking. The stake in MB&F; follows on Chanel’s investment in F.P. Journe (believed to be about a quarter), and about a half share in Romain Gauthier. Chanel has also long owned a substantial stake in Bell & Ross, as well as a quarter of movement maker Kenissi. Add to those Chanel’s holdings in the watchmaking supply chain, and the result is a luxury group that has a substantial and growing player in watchmaking. Chanel’s watch and jewellery chief, Frédéric Grangié, said the investment in MB&F; “is part of our long-term strategy to continue to preserve, develop and invest in specialist know-how and...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green Aug 18, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! So make yourself a nice cup of coffee and let our writers make their cases before you get to decide which of the two watches is your favorite pick. This week, it’s the battle of the luxury travel watches. Jorg will make a case […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green to read the full article.

The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours in Minimalist Black Jade SJX Watches
Aug 13, 2024

The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours in Minimalist Black Jade

The Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone is Andersen Genève’s new take on its minimalist, digital hour timepiece. Retaining the same specifications, it once against uses the wide expanse of the dial for visual effect. The dial is a large, seamless piece of black jade just 0.4 mm thick that’s been lapped to a perfectly flat, mirrored finish. The glossy black dial is unadorned save for the hour display 12 o’clock, along with a pink gold minute hand matched with pink gold-powder printing. Initial thoughts Bringing to mind vintage jump hour pocket watches with its clean dial, the Andersen Jumping Hours is a perfect canvas for dial decoration given the available space. Even though it looks plain at a distance, the black jade dial is striking in its colour and simplicity, while also revealing the natural grain up close. The time display, however, is unconventional. While the hours are easy to read, the minute register at six is easily and often mistaken for the seconds. Though I can understand the design-driven purpose of the minute sub-dial, I would have done it another way to make reading of the time more intuitive. The quality of work is typical Andersen, which is artisanal and visibly so. It doesn’t have the perfect execution found in a Voutilainen or Akrivia but is done well. The price is commensurate with the quality – at about US$59,000 is more or less mid-range amongst high-end independent watchmakers. Time only in black jade One of the pioneering independent watchm...

Introducing – Vacheron Constantin Honours Ancient Chinese Culture with its Métiers d’Art Tribute to Traditional Symbols Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Honours Ancient Chinese Culture Aug 12, 2024

Introducing – Vacheron Constantin Honours Ancient Chinese Culture with its Métiers d’Art Tribute to Traditional Symbols

Vacheron Constantin taps into a more creative vein with the latest quartet of watches celebrating ancient Chinese culture. Emerging from Vacheron’s Métiers d’Art atelier, the four models offer two different interpretations of the legendary Chinese motif known as the “Seawater Cliff”. The motif, which appeared in the 14th century, represents the sea crashing against steep […]

Hands-on – The Divisively Beautiful Gerald Genta Designed Credor Locomotive Monochrome
Seiko s high-end line offering Aug 9, 2024

Hands-on – The Divisively Beautiful Gerald Genta Designed Credor Locomotive

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Credor, a brand that began as Seiko‘s high-end line, offering timepieces crafted from precious metals. Today, Credor is renowned for its commitment to superior craftsmanship and aesthetic sensibility, which is evident in every aspect of its watches, from design to the intricate movements made up of countless minute […]

The Enduring Appeal of the Dunhill Rollagas Lighter Worn & Wound
Aug 7, 2024

The Enduring Appeal of the Dunhill Rollagas Lighter

While the term “everyday carry” is broad enough already, I’d bet my money that a lighter which costs close to $1,300 would not be included in anyone’s list. But, for me, it’s hard to deny that a Dunhill Rollagas is the epitome of style and functionality – and here is where I’m willing to expand the definition of “EDC” just a little bit. For many of us who consider ourselves collectors – whether it be watches, pens, or knives – I’m sure you’ve heard the phrase, “My cheap X works just as well!” And while this may be true (and trust me, my house is littered with matchbooks and cheap Bic lighters), I know that I’m not just buying something for functionality. When I buy a luxury good, I’m buying into the brand itself and the history behind it. While the $5 Spongebob watch my nephew wears and my Datejust both tell time, sure, there’s an undeniable difference that exists beyond timekeeping. When a brand does it right, you can almost feel it.  I’d call it nearly talismanic while my more cynical peers may call it just plain ol’ good marketing. But whatever the case might be, I feel a little different holding a Dunhill lighter in my hands. When I run my thumb across the sparkwheel on a gas station Bic, I’m instantly brought back to when I was sixteen and trying my first cigarette. When I do the same with a Rollagas, I feel like a proper adult. I like who I am when I have one in my pocket. The History of Dunhill For a brand to have been on a...

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind SJX Watches
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Aug 6, 2024

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind

A limited edition that is classic Cartier in terms of style, the Santos-Dumont Rewind is elegant but whimsically different. The Rewind retains the exact same dimensions of the standard Santos-Dumont “Large” model, but is unique in two ways. The more obvious is the dial, which is carnelian, a brown-red mineral stone with a nuanced colour. Less obvious at first glance is the reversed hour track around the dial that complements hour and minutes hands that track anticlockwise – hence “Rewind”. Initial thoughts The Santos-Dumont Rewind captures the traditional Cartier style, but with a twist. As a result, it’s more than a standard Santos-Dumont, but not too much. Most of its defining elements are not apparent at a distance, so it’s fairly subtle. Everything is just right, and makes for a compelling watch. Although this is the Large model (rather than the Extra Large that I personally prefer), the platinum case has a good heft. The bright colour of the metal also contrasts well with the dark red carnelian dial that reveals interesting shading up close. The grain of carnelian is more subtle than the mineral stones commonly found in watches, particularly malachite and lapis lazuli. This suits the low-key complication well. As for the hands that go backwards, it takes some getting used to. The complication is clearly pointless, but appealing because it has an elegant simplicity that suits the watch. The Rewind costs US$38,400, which is fair enough for a wristwatch w...

Hands On With The Stylishly Monochromatic Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey 42mm Fratello
Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey Aug 6, 2024

Hands On With The Stylishly Monochromatic Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey 42mm

I really like Hublot. There, I said it! It’s not always the cool thing to say in the world of watches, but I’m not afraid to admit it. My favorite series is the brand’s Classic Fusion, which links back directly to the brand’s beginnings. The latest addition to the Classic Fusion series is a duo […] Visit Hands On With The Stylishly Monochromatic Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey 42mm to read the full article.

Delma Releases a Limited Edition Chronograph to Continue their 100th Anniversary Celebration Worn & Wound
Aug 2, 2024

Delma Releases a Limited Edition Chronograph to Continue their 100th Anniversary Celebration

Earlier this year we told you about Swiss brand Delma’s 100th anniversary celebration, which kicked off with the release of a limited edition tourbillon. Of course, plenty of brands release tourbillons and they are a natural for a celebratory watch, but very few come in at under $10,000, which the Delma did during its pre-order period (the full retail price is $13,900, which is still quite affordable for a Swiss tourbillon). Their latest effort, announced last month, has also been released to coincide with the brand’s centenary, but it’s a bit more modest in its focus. The new Heritage Chronograph 100 Years Limited Edition pays tribute to Delma’s long history of making chronographs in a handsome package that’s a bit more under the radar (and more affordable) than their release from earlier in the year.  Delma traces their history of making chronographs to the mid 1940s when the brand’s focus began to shift to sport oriented watches. Over the years, they’ve made watches for just about every sporting discipline that a well rounded watch brand would ever attempt, including dive watches, timepieces meant for racing of all kinds, as well as travel watches. The new Heritage Chronograph has several clear vintage cues meant to tie this watch to the brand’s earliest sports watches.  Like many WWII era and later mid century chronographs, the Heritage Chronograph features both tachymeter and telemeter scales at the dial’s outer perimeter. Red accents within the te...

Rolex Watches For WWII POWs And The Great Escape Fratello
Rolex Watches Aug 2, 2024

Rolex Watches For WWII POWs And The Great Escape

World War II wreaked havoc around the globe. Many millions died, and at times, it must have felt like the end of the world as nations committed everything to defeating their enemies. Rolex also lent a hand in a small way by providing timepieces to prisoners of war (POWs). As a graduate history student, I […] Visit Rolex Watches For WWII POWs And The Great Escape to read the full article.

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport On Tour In NZ WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Jul 29, 2024

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport On Tour In NZ

It’s the ultimate question: Which watch should I take with me when traveling? To see how the Zenith Chronomaster Sport held up, we took it to New Zealand on an adventure to answer this question! One of the things that goes through my mind when looking at a potential watch purchase is, is it good for travel? Now I’m not talking about watches with GMT functions or watches that are specifically designed to track multiple time zones like a Worldtimer etc. These are great, but not essential. I’ve traveled lots without a specific watch like a GMT. What I’m more interested in is this: Is the watch versatile enough to wear in different climates with different clothing? Can I wear it day and night should I take it as my only piece? Will I enjoy wearing it out and about, exploring new places and seeing new sights, and the last one that goes through my mind (a side effect of doing what I do) how will this piece photograph and will it look good on Instagram? Ok, the last one is a little more specific to me, but you get my gist! Now I’m a bit of a sucker for a green dial. I use to gravitate towards blue, but these days, I’m liking watches with more colour, or something that isn’t your standard blue or black. Don’t get me wrong, both of these colours are great, but if you have a few watches that are blue or black, then you kind of want to venture out of this box a little. With this in mind, I’ve managed to get my hands on the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Green that was re...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jul 19, 2024

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley”

Named after its silver, textured dial, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” is a variant of the longstanding Sport Collection GMT with a sapphire-covered 24-hour bezel. It’s in two-tone green and white inspired by the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi at the end of winter, where the mountain is covered in lush greenery but topped by white snow. In typical Grand Seiko style, the steel case is finished with zaratsu flat polishing. It is equipped with a high-frequency cal. 9S86 running at 5 Hz that is a “true” GMT movement with an independently adjustable local time hour hand. The silvery white texture depicts snow on the ground in the mountain. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko often turns to nature for its dial colours and patterns, with many of its timepieces are named after elements of the nature world, the Spring Drive “Pink Snowflake”. In the case of the SBGJ277, it’s not just the dial, but also the green-and-silver livery of the watch that is “Snow Valley”. Grand Seiko rolls out such model variants and limited editions frequently, too often sometimes, but its offerings remain good value. This also applies to the SBGJ277, which is priced at US$6,800. It is a practical watch with an in-house movement and a genuine GMT function, along with a high level of fit and finish on almost every element; arguably only the bracelet needs to be upgraded, with a micro-adjustment clasp for instance. Featuring an offset crown at four o’clock ...

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Citizen Celebrating 35 Years Jul 18, 2024

Recapping Windup in a Lake 2024 Presented by Citizen Celebrating 35 Years of Promaster

In 1971, banker-turned-explorer Peter Gimbel set out on a 5-month voyage aboard the Terrier VIII to be the first person in the world to capture a Great White shark on film. He cobbled together an eclectic team for this adventure, including everyone from conservationists and shark experts to filmmakers and writers. This expedition resulted in the documentary film Blue Water, White Death, which has since become a cult classic within the diving community, and features a slew of very unique, very 70s dive watches to boot. Among the crew of early underwater luminaries (Stan Waterman, Ron and Valerie Taylor, anyone?), Gimbel also saw fit to hire budding singer/songwriter Tom Chapin along as a guitar-slinging jack of all trades, whereupon he became the natural soundtrack for the film. Tom’s role in this expedition is considered to be the inspiration for filmmaker Wes Anderson’s inclusion of Brazilian folk singer Seu Jorge in his sea-set feature The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou. Both films result in support of an eternal truth, that the best boat rides are the ones with folk singers aboard. For the last three years, the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago has brought enthusiasts from as far south as Texas and from as far north as Canada to gather and geek out on watches from around the world. Beginning with the first year of Windup Chicago, a dedicated team of watch enthusiast divers started an adjacent activity, affectionately dubbed “Windup in a Lake.” Each year, this intrepi...