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Why lug-to-lug matters more than diameter (and how to actually pick a watch that fits)

Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Longines Introduces the Spirit Zulu Time 39 mm SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 21, 2023

Longines Introduces the Spirit Zulu Time 39 mm

Originally introduced in 42 mm last year, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time now gets a more comfortable 39 mm case. The new variant retains all the appealing design elements of the original that are loosely inspired by the brand’s first dual time zone watch from 1925, including the legible dial and a vintage-style, bi-directional bezel. Initial thoughts The Spirit Zulu Time is a great example of how to execute a vintage-style watch. However, a significant drawback was the large, 42 mm size of the original, which was quite hefty on the wrist and not quite suited to the retro style. Longines clearly recognised this issue and responded surprisingly quickly in introducing a more wearable size. While the 39 mm size is certainly positive, the case thickness of 13.5 mm leaves it notably thick relative to the diameter; the thickness is comparable to some automatic chronographs. As a result, it may feel clunky on the wrist for some. That said, the reason for the case height is fundamental: the watch is powered by the same movement as the original.   Still, the Spirit Zulu Time continues to be an excellent value proposition, starting at US$3,050 in steel while the steel and gold model is US$4,200. The fact that the Zulu Time is a genuine GMT with an independent local-time hour hand makes it a standout amongst affordable dual-time zone watches. Although it may fall short in terms of movement sophistication compared to the similarly-priced Tudor Black Bay GMT, it has the advantage of ...

[VIDEO] Battle of the White GMTs: Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer II 16570 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer Jun 20, 2023

[VIDEO] Battle of the White GMTs: Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer II 16570

There has never been a better time to be in the market for a GMT watch, with no shortage of great options at a wider range of prices than perhaps ever before. There is one watch that’s remained a pillar of the genre over the years, however, and that is the Explorer II reference 16570. It holds up just as well today as it did when it was introduced in the late ‘80s, and remains a favorite among enthusiasts for its sweet spot sizing, and a timeless design that seems to go with everything. But that’s a watch that’s been out of production for decades, so where is the modern incarnation of this ethos? We may have found a perfect candidate in the Grand Seiko SBGE285. Grand Seiko hasn’t exactly been at the center of the scruffy tool watch scene in the same way that 5 digit Rolex references have, but this SBGE285 offers a compelling case for Grand Seiko’s take on the genre with this modern tool-ish GMT. This is a watch that might look a little intimidating by the numbers, but offers a different experience on-wrist. It might not be as svelte as the Explorer II, but there’s plenty to admire here, from the stunning finishing on the hands and dial furniture, to the unorthodox case architecture, which are all executed to Grand Seiko’s high standards. Ultimately, these two watches offer very different experiences that reflect the two brands at their very best. That said, they do converge in a few surprising ways, which Kat and Blake discuss in this inside look at watches...

What Will I Pay for an Entry-Level Audemars Piguet? Teddy Baldassarre
Audemars Piguet ? If you are Jun 20, 2023

What Will I Pay for an Entry-Level Audemars Piguet?

If you are on a quest for the “cheapest” Audemars Piguet watch, it’s best to accept one truism right up front: that the cheapest AP is still going to be, for most, a major investment. When it comes to the most desirable Audemars Piguet watches, you can expect to lay out no less than five figures even for a pre-owned model, and new models are so highly in demand that even their already pricey MSRPs will prove to be a frustrating mirage for many prospective buyers, as those watches will regularly be marked up even higher on the secondary market. Nevertheless, in keeping with our previous guides covering Rolex and Patek Philippe, and in the spirit of every Audemars Piguet owner/collector needing to start somewhere, here are three entry-level options from three AP collections, with some details on what makes each one distinctive. (Whether those distinctions are enough to move you to buy one will be up to you and, perhaps, your financial advisor.) Audemars Piguet began making watches in 1875, when founders Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet first registered the brand in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Now headquartered in the town of Le Brassus, it remains one of the very few privately owned firms in the watchmaking industry, still in the hands of the Audemars family. Renamed Audemars Piguet & Cie in 1881, the company primarily manufactured movements for other firms in its earliest days, including Tiffany and Co., but later gained renown for milestones like t...

The Time+Tide Shop becomes the exclusive Australian retailer of Zodiac - a pioneering dive watch brand Time+Tide
Blancpain s 1953 … ContinuedThe Jun 20, 2023

The Time+Tide Shop becomes the exclusive Australian retailer of Zodiac - a pioneering dive watch brand

The Time+Tide Shop keeps on keeping on, and we’re excited to introduce the latest newcomer – Zodiac. We’ll be offering pieces from all of Zodiac’s modern collections, and do so as the exclusive Australian retailer. A brand nearing 150 years of operation, Zodiac was among the first to introduce a dive watch, matching Blancpain’s 1953 … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide Shop becomes the exclusive Australian retailer of Zodiac – a pioneering dive watch brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Revo Talks: Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia Revolution
Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Jun 20, 2023

Revo Talks: Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia

Wei and Constant have a sit-down conversation on our newest limited edition, the Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia. Join us as we go into the stories of Laurent Ferrier, the man himself, and the amazing process that created this beautiful timepiece. Our Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia is limited to just 15 […]

Bell & Ross Introduces a Sky Blue Version of their BR 05 GMT Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces Jun 19, 2023

Bell & Ross Introduces a Sky Blue Version of their BR 05 GMT

Bell & Ross has just released their latest interpretation of their urban living-inspired BR 05 GMT range, the Sky Blue. With its mixture of cool steel and blue highlights, this automatic watch definitely lives up to its heavenly name. The BR 05 GMT Sky Blue is a watch designed for the urban inhabitant that enjoys a subtle – yet noticeable – presence on their wrist. With its squared design, it’s bold without being ostentatious, the way any good watch worth its salt should be. The Sky Blue is able to toe the line between being vintage-inspired and totally contemporary, drawing at times from classic integrated bracelet sports watch designs, but in a notably Bell & Ross way, using their well understood square case as a starting point. The look of the watch itself is impressively modern. The steel case is satin-polished for a warmer look while the caseback is sapphire, featuring a 360° oscillating weight. It’s the subtle touches that are now synonymous with Bell & Ross that elevates this watch above others under the label’s offerings. The Sky Blue, like others in the BR 05 GMT range, is powered by a Calibre BR-CAL.325 automatic movement (a rebadged Sellita SW330). This will give the wearer a 42-hour power reserve.  This watch also features a GMT complication that allows for the tracking of a second time zone. Cleverly painted on the flange, day and evening are distinguished by a split color scheme: gray for the daytime (6 am to 6 pm) and blue for the night-time (6 p...

The Owner’s Perspective: Tudor Black Bay GMT WatchAdvice
Tudor Black Bay GMT Jun 19, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: Tudor Black Bay GMT

The Tudor Black Bay GMT was a hit when released in 2018 giving people a much more affordable alternative to it’s older and wiser cousin, the Rolex GMT BLRO, otherwise known as “The Pepsi”. And being more attainable and a great value proposition, I decided it was time to add a GMT to the collection. Why I Bought It I had never owned a GMTGreat Rolex alternativeClassic styled GMT & similar to my Black Bay The Ownership Reality Wears larger than a 41mm watch due to it’s 14mm thickness and slab sidesNo micro adjust or extendable links for on the fly adjustment Aluminium bezel insert more prone to scratches than ceramic Overall rating: 8.5 /10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 A few months ago, Tudor released a new variant of the Tudor Black Bay GMT with a white dial, which you can read about here, but personally, I didn’t love the white dial on this watch. The black dial “Pepsi” configuration, The OG looks better in my opinion, which made me think why, and then made me think – maybe I should write about it in this next Owners Perspective article. The original and the best – Tudor Black Bay GMT Having never owned a GMT, and les face it, over 2020 and 2021, I’ve not needed one as I’ve not really gone anywhere thanks to COVID. But with the world opening up again early last year, and with a few family holidays planned combined with an itch for a new watch, I decided to take the plunge and get a Tudor Black Bay GMT. W...

Bamford Watch Department x Wes Lang present a Limited Edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph BWD collaborates Jun 19, 2023

Bamford Watch Department x Wes Lang present a Limited Edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

BWD collaborates with Wes Lang to bring the artist’s signature flourishes to the iconic Carrera Chronograph Wes Lang is known for his recurring figures and symbols- horses, reapers, skulls, birds, the indigenous American and other post-pop Americana iconography The watch is a harmonious melding of Jack Heuer and Wes Lang’s design codes in a rose … ContinuedThe post Bamford Watch Department x Wes Lang present a Limited Edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Bulova Marine Star models reframe a mish-mash of influences into bombastic new looks Time+Tide
Bulova Marine Star models reframe Jun 18, 2023

The new Bulova Marine Star models reframe a mish-mash of influences into bombastic new looks

Some watches play to a faithful template, while others prefer to try something more imaginative. These new Bulova Marine Star models are definitely in the second category, pulling influences from seemingly every direction and frankly it’s difficult to know what to make of them. All that said, if you’re looking for something with unashamed character … ContinuedThe post The new Bulova Marine Star models reframe a mish-mash of influences into bombastic new looks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How smartwatches could protect soldiers from chemical warfare Time+Tide
Jun 17, 2023

How smartwatches could protect soldiers from chemical warfare

War played a crucial role in the evolution of the wristwatch.  Historians believe the idea of strapping watches to soldier’s wrists was probably conceived during the Boer War, although there are some accounts of Napoleon being frustrated by having to constantly fumble about for his pocket watch during battle. But the real game-changer that made … ContinuedThe post How smartwatches could protect soldiers from chemical warfare appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 18 Best Watches Under $100 Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Jun 16, 2023

The 18 Best Watches Under $100

When it comes to watches and their price-to-value ratio, how low can you go to still acquire a watch that's reliable, functional, good-looking, and perhaps even a conversation piece? A while back, we found 15 such timepieces under $200. In this article, we lower the cost bar even further, to spotlight watches that will run you under a C-note before taxes. As you'd expect, most (but surprisingly not all) are quartz-driven, and we've divvied them up by brand (for clarity, Casio and its popular G-Shock sub-brand are separate entities), between the very few watchmakers that excel at making watches in this affordable niche. Scroll down for our compilation of the best watches under $100. CASIO Casio F91W Digital Sport Watch Price: $22.95, Case Size: 38.2mm x 35.2mm, Case Height: 8.5mm, Crystal: Resin glass, Water Resistance: Water resistant, Movement: Solar Quartz Digital Sort of a proto-G-Shock, Casio’s ubiquitous F91W speaks to legions of fans with its rectangular resin case, multifunctional digital display face, and ribbed, waterproof resin strap. The watch’s three buttons operate a 1/1000-second digital chronograph with split times, alarms and time signals, and auto calendar functions, along with an illuminating night light. Pressing the button on the right side of the lightweight case for five seconds brings up the model’s anti-counterfeit “Easter Egg:” the name “CASI0” briefly appearing on the screen in digital text. Casio AE1200 Worldtimer Price: $29.95, Cas...

Turning 50 with the Grand Seiko SBGE257 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGE257 Three years ago Jun 16, 2023

Turning 50 with the Grand Seiko SBGE257

Three years ago, my significant other turned 50 and for this milestone birthday she absolutely wanted a Tesla automobile. As the wonderful husband I am and knowing my 50th birthday was three years away, I knew this could open the door to a significant watch purchase, so of course, we made it happen. Luckily, we were very fortunate to take possession of her new cherry red car just weeks before the pandemic turned the entire world upside down.  From that day forward, I had to figure out what would make the perfect 50th birthday watch, however, before we get to this process, you have to understand something about me. I call myself a serial monogamist when it comes to watch collecting. I am one of those people that can only have one “good” watch at a time. I cannot seem to have more than one, as there is always a preferred one and that one always gets the wrist time.  As a result, since 1997, I have gone through hundreds of watches, always looking for watch next. My preference is for sport, dive and pilot watches and I have owned, photographed and reviewed some of the very finest in the world. I have done this by frequently trading, or selling and buying, but always with the same pool of watch funds. Oh, I have added a little bit here and there, and I have also gotten lucky a few times and come out favorably on some trades. All that said, it has been years since the wifely unit permitted a large watch purchase.  You see, we have two adult kids in college and despite wha...

Marnaut Returns with their Refined Dark Surge 300 Diver, a Proper Dressy Tool Watch and a New Showroom in an Exotic Locale Worn & Wound
Jun 16, 2023

Marnaut Returns with their Refined Dark Surge 300 Diver, a Proper Dressy Tool Watch and a New Showroom in an Exotic Locale

The last time we caught up Mario Jutronic and his Croatia-designed microbrand, Marnaut, the collection featured a pair of capable divers with a distinct dial inspired by a creature of the Adriatic Sea. Marnaut has been quiet in recent years and after a stint in Asia, Jutronic has returned to his homeland, marking the watch brand’s resurgence. Sometimes a change in scenery is what the soul needs, and you know what they say, there’s nothing better than home cooking. Now, Marnaut is looking to pick up right where they left off with a more refined version of their flagship Dark Surge 300 diver and the launch of their brand new Safe Harbour 100 collection. The newly refined Dark Surge 300 As you’ll find out with all the noteworthy details, all roads lead back to “The Land of a Thousand Islands” in every Marnaut piece. The sea urchin exoskeleton inspired dial, a signature Marnaut design cue and a tribute to Jutronic’s younger days snorkeling in the Adriatic Sea to find these coveted creatures, reprises its format in the updated Dark Surge 300. The dial displays all 47 raised indices in radiating fashion with each one wrapped in a polished surround and filled with C3 SuperLuminova. There’s a certain depth this particular design provides. From above, the space between the top of the surrounds and the surface of its filling is noticeable. A side profile captures the same raised indices in a different manner as they reflect off of the glossy black dial. As a result, le...

Bethesda’s new Starfield video game smartwatch gets an IRL counterpart Time+Tide
Ming industry has become Jun 16, 2023

Bethesda’s new Starfield video game smartwatch gets an IRL counterpart

In case you’ve avoided the news for the past several years (and who could blame you?), the gaming industry has become the world’s biggest avenue for entertainment, to the tune of over US$220 Billion (with a capital B) in 2022. In fact, it far outpaces the movie and music industries combined. So game studios have … ContinuedThe post Bethesda’s new Starfield video game smartwatch gets an IRL counterpart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A belated recap of the Parisian Breguet Type XX/20 event Time+Tide
Breguet Type XX/20 event Hey Jun 16, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A belated recap of the Parisian Breguet Type XX/20 event

Hey folks! Back in the Friday Wind Down saddle. I would have loved to share my experience during the Paris Breguet trip last week, but alas I was in transit to Geneva and could not punch it out in time. But, back in New York City, I wanted to give you a peek into what … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A belated recap of the Parisian Breguet Type XX/20 event appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: Vintage Divers and Mystery Dials Worn & Wound
Rolex Thunderbird Jun 15, 2023

eBay Finds: Vintage Divers and Mystery Dials

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Oris Diver To start this week we have a cool and funky vintage Oris diver. The oval/cushion style chrome plated case is in great shape, with nice sharp edges and factory brushed finish intact. Seller doesn’t state the size but it looks to be on the larger size judging by the placement of the date window. The black dial is super clean, with nicely aged lume hour markers. It has an aluminum elapsed time divers bezel that is also in great shape. The crown is original and is signed with the Oris name. No movement picture, but the seller states it runs well. View auction here. Waltham Ultra-Thin Next up is a stylin’ vintage Waltham in yellow gold fill, complete with box and extras. The gold fill case looks nice and sharp, and has a nifty engine turned bezel similar to the classic Rolex Thunderbird and thin simple lugs. The simple crosshair gold dial has Arabic numerals at 12 and 6, along with a sub-seconds dial just above the 6. No date and gold dauphine hands complete the look. Nice, thin, classy dress watch. Best of all it comes in the original box with some little tags and a hangtag. Again, no movement picture but the seller states it runs well. View auction here. Vintage Bu...

Farer Introduces the Chronograph Sport Titanium Collection, with New Takes on Old Favorites in a Lighter Metal Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces Jun 15, 2023

Farer Introduces the Chronograph Sport Titanium Collection, with New Takes on Old Favorites in a Lighter Metal

Today, Farer has launched the latest additions to the Chrono-Sport lineup with their new Chronograph Sport Titanium collection. As the name suggests, these watches will be released in a titanium frame, versus the standard steel from previous models. Not only does this reduce weight by around 20%, but it also brings some of Farer’s most intriguing designs back to the forefront of conversation. Farer is a brand that knows what it’s doing and how to do it well. With an emphasis on updating classic designs with contemporary color combinations, Farer isn’t afraid to be bold without ever veering into the ostentatious. This can be seen with the two colorways for the Titanium collection: the Carnegie and the Bernina. Both inspired by the legendary motor races held in St. Moritz, each relies on a common design language that is somehow completely retro and totally modern all at once.  The Carnegie Titanium leans more towards the alpine nature of St. Mortiz with its complementary blue and bronze accents. With a subtle sunburst dial and accents of silver, it’s a watch that could easily be found on any racer worth his salt in the heyday of motoracing. The ceramic bezel, three subdials, and Super-LumiNova hour markers all finish the appearance of the Carngie to put it miles above others in its class in terms of appearance. Contrasting the cool Carnegie is the more vibrant Bernina, which puts the pedal to the metal for the Farer line-up. With red and off-white accents, it’s a ...

In Conversation with Laurent Ferrier: The Renaissance Watchmaker behind the Amazonia Revolution
Laurent Ferrier Jun 15, 2023

In Conversation with Laurent Ferrier: The Renaissance Watchmaker behind the Amazonia

Wei joined Laurent Ferrier for an in-depth discussion on his design ethos for hyper-classic masterpieces and how our Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia came to fruition. Laurent Ferrier’s passion for watchmaking was inspired by his father, who was also a watchmaker. He has over 37 years of watchmaking experience, including working as the […]

Tissot Introduces the Sideral SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces Jun 15, 2023

Tissot Introduces the Sideral

Fun, affordable, and well-equipped, the Sideral is a surprisingly interesting entry-level sports watch from Tissot. Where many recent sports watches been Genta-inspired with integrated bracelets – Tissot’s own PRX among them – the Sideral reminds us that the 70s were a time of broader experimentation for the Swiss watch industry, in terms of both design and materials. Based on the playful and quirky Sideral S from 1971, the newSideral is not a one-to-one remake of the original. Instead, it’s been smartly updated in both design and functionality. While the original Sideral S featured a fiberglass case, then a world first, the reissue has a more contemporary carbon composite case. With its clever use of lume plus a regatta countdown bezel, the Sideral packs a surprising amount of character for the price. The original Sideral S from 1971 (lower left) next to the new Sideral. Initial thoughts Heritage remakes have become a common trope in the luxury watch industry over the past few years, but brands have mostly focused on bringing back their most timeless and iconic designs from the 1950s and 1960s; the Tudor Black Bay 54 is a perfect example. In this context, the launch of the funky Sideral is a breath of fresh air, since the original design is comparatively obscure and likely unknown to many contemporary enthusiasts.  The dial itself is generously and playfully lumed, with four different colours of Super-LumiNova across the collection to bring it to life in the dark...

24 Perpetual Calendar Watches from The World's Leading Luxury Watchmak Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 14, 2023

24 Perpetual Calendar Watches from The World's Leading Luxury Watchmak

The most sophisticated type of calendar watch, a perpetual calendar is endowed with a mechanical “memory” that enables it to record and display the time, day, date, month, and often the moon-phase, accurately for many years. The complex movement in a perpetual calendar compensates for the length of every month, including February in both leap years and non-leap-years, meaning that it should not need adjusting until the year 2100, which is the next annum in which the Gregorian calendar’s leap-year cycle is disrupted (it will be the first year since 1900 that is exactly divisible by 100 but not by 400, and thus not a leap year). As you'd expect, perpetual calendar watches (called "quantième perpétuel" in French) are extremely complicated in their mechanics and design, representing one of the highest pinnacles of high horology and priced accordingly. Throughout the modern wristwatch industry, only a relative handful of brands have mastered the art of the perpetual calendar: we showcase some of them, and their most impressive perpetual calendar timepieces, here.  A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Introduced in 2021, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar adopts the new approach taken to perpetual calendar design that the Saxon maison established in 2012 with the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar. In typical Lange fashion, the technical approach taken is complex in the service of user-friendly practicality. Its in-house, self-winding movement, Caliber L021.3, ...

[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case Worn & Wound
Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Jun 14, 2023

[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case

Longines released the first Spirit Zulu Time last year, offering a so-called true GMT in a 42mm steel case with all the Spirit design details we’ve come to expect from Longines. As good as that watch was, the case was a bit overpowering for some wrists out there, and Longines has heard the calls for a more approachable sized GMT. This is the Zulu Time GMT in 39mm, and it captures pretty much everything we loved in the original model, in a much tidier package. This is a watch that will sit directly across from the Tudor Black Bay Pro, offering a slightly different, but similar level of appeal.  The latest Zulu Time remains in the Spirit collection, and yes, the 5 applied stars remain on the dial. There are plenty of polished details to discover in places like the surround of the chapter ring, the frame of the bezel, and those aforementioned stars. Like other Spirit watches, this Zulu Time has a taste of the ornate, which might push it into slightly more interesting (or less interesting, depending on your taste) territory compared to something like the far more straightforward and tool-ish Black Bay Pro from Tudor. Longines does address the most common complaint levied against that Tudor, however. The Zulu Time 39 measures 39mm in diameter, and 13.5mm in thickness, a full millimeter clear of the Black Bay Pro. That said, I’m not sure I’d have guessed that on the wrist. It felt perfectly pleasant on my 7.25” wrist, and it didn’t immediately strike me as a thick wat...

HANDS-ON: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 offers a more compact and ergonomic take on the prior 42 Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 Jun 14, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 offers a more compact and ergonomic take on the prior 42

The Longines Spirit lineup has become a go-to collection to recommend when someone asks what a great option would be for an entry-level Swiss luxury watch. The collection, now three years into its current generation, has seen quite rapid growth with a variety of aesthetic and functional configurations. Born initially in 2020 with 40mm and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 offers a more compact and ergonomic take on the prior 42 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.