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New: Tissot PRX 35MM Powermatic 80
Tissot extends their very popular Powermatic 80 series with two additional new references in 35mm, in an ice blue and in gold.
Results for Proprietary Gold Alloys
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Revolution
Up Close with Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’
An up close look at Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’. The 37mm white gold case measures 46mm from lug to lug and features a captivating sterling silver dial adorned with intricate guilloché with Clous de Paris motif and Breguet numerals. It is complemented by one of the world’s […]
SJX Watches
Omega’s Novel Take on the Seamaster Diver 300M for Paris 2024 Olympics
As the Summer Olympics in Paris approach, Omega introduces a special edition of the Seamaster Diver 300M. Limited editions for the event are a given, but this latest Olympic edition is dressed in unusual livery for a Seamaster. The brand’s Moonshine Gold alloy is used for bezel, while the dial is bright white ceramic. Initial thoughts Considering Omega’s long association with the Olympics stretches back 91 years, the number of limited editions for the games is numerous. Many were regrettably rather mundane in design, featuring the customary dial colour changes and Olympic markings. However, this particular edition stands out with its lighter tones, a departure from the typically dark hues of Omega’s dive watches, which was also the usual look of previous Olympic editions. And because this is an Omega, the colours are as much about aesthetics as materials. One aspect that particularly appeals in this release is the Moonshine Gold bezel. The golden insert complements the white ceramic dial and the stainless steel case and bracelet. This gives the watch a sense of visual luxury, making it different from the typical diver special edition without being gimmicky, which arguably gives it more longevity in terms of style. The price of this special edition stands at US$8,700, notably higher than the standard steel model, which is rationalised by the gold bezel no doubt. It will only be available, for the moment, at Omega boutiques in Paris. That said, the brand has not yet ...
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Introducing: Omega Seamaster 300M 'Paris 2024' Special Edition Begins The Countdown To The Olympics
The Paris Olympics might be a year away, but Omega is already going for gold.
SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces the Promaster Diver “Fujitsubo” in DLC Titanium
Citizen’s flagship mechanical dive watch gets an upgrade with the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m “Fujitsubo”. The new “Fujitsubo” diver features a gradient-finish grey dial, but its standout feature is the case and bracelet in the brand’s proprietary hardened titanium alloy coated with diamond-like carbon (DLC). Initial thoughts Sometimes underestimated, Citizen’s dive watches don’t garner as much attention as those of its competitor Seiko, primarily due to the scarcity of mechanical dive in Citizen’s lineup. Most of Citizen’s dive watches are solar-powered or quartz. Nevertheless, the Japanese watchmaker has recently taken significant steps towards boosting its mechanical offerings, particularly with the introduction of the oversized and modern Promaster 200 m diver. The “Fujitsubo”, on the other hand, takes inspiration from the Challenge Diver of 1977, explaining its vintage styling. But this latest iteration exudes a more contemporary feel owing to the gradient grey dial and the DLC coating on the case and bracelet. The resulting shades-of-grey livery makes this stand apart from its predecessor, which was essentially a like-for-like remake. Priced at US$1,195, the “Fujitsubo” DLC is a bit more expensive than the standard titanium model. Nonetheless, it justifies the higher price tag with improved aesthetics and the superior durability offered by the DLC coating. That said, it would have been even more appealing with the option of a rubber ...
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Why I Chose This Breitling Over A New Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT & Sold All My Rolex Submariner Watches
Time+Tide
The new A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar and Lange 1 Time Zone
Two modern classics of A. Lange & Söhne designs have been given fresh case materials. The 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is cased in 18k white gold with a pink gold dial. The Lange 1 Time Zone is cased in 950 platinum with a rhodium dial. It’s well established by now that the Swiss aren’t the … ContinuedThe post The new A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar and Lange 1 Time Zone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar, Now in Red and Black
Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has just unveiled a fresh colour option for the Master Control Chronograph Calendar. Sporting a black dial adorned with red and gold accents, the latest iteration is the chromatic opposite of the original model that featured a conservative silver dial. Initial thoughts The Master Control Chronograph Calendar was released two years ago with an unsurprising silver dial that fit well with the vintage-inspired design but lacked oomph. Fortunately, JLC has addressed this with a high contrast palette that is still suitably vintage inspired but much more striking. Vintage watches with black-and-red dials are uncommon, but they do exist. The combination is appealing, but not the most practical since red text on a black dial is hard to read due to the low contrast between the two colours. This is especially so for the calendar indications, while the pulsations scale on the periphery is probably unreadable in low light. But still, the appeal of the dial certainly makes it compelling despite the poor legality. Colours aside, the watch is identical to the original version, so it shares the same strengths, like the solid, old-school design, and weaknesses, like the mix of French and English on the dial. This costs the same as the earlier version in rose gold, which is US$32,500. The price parity is certainly fair and logical. However, the price is a bit higher than it should be. While not exorbitant, the price does not represent the sort of strong value propo...
Time+Tide
The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm is a no-gimmick joy for smaller tastes
The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm shrinks down the crowd-favourite dive watch. Despite its reduced size, it retains all necessary diving specifications. Three models are available in black, blue or grey with a gold PVD case. Given the sheer amount of dive watches which get released every day, it’s pretty common for them to include some … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm is a no-gimmick joy for smaller tastes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial
The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar seamlessly integrates two of the most intricate complications in watchmaking with symmetry and classic elegance. It has undergone several facelifts since its introduction in 2013, including the champlevé enamel Handwerkskunst of 2017. Now, the brand has introduced the latest incarnation of the model that features a dial in “salmon” – officially known as “pink gold” – while retaining the traditionally constructed calibre in a limited edition of only 100 pieces. Initial thoughts Envisioning further improvements for the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is probably challenging due to its complexity and quality. The Handwerkskunst edition did it with lots of elaborate decoration. Now comes a salmon dial, something a little unexpected, given the lack of colour across the rest of the 1815 family, which sticks fairly rigidly to silvered dials, no matter the case metal. Perhaps the new dial colour is to add a bit more appeal to an otherwise under-appreciated (and slow-selling) complication. Perhaps the only downside to this release is that it is just a dial change with no substantial changes to note. But the intrinsic quality of the watch itself in terms of finishing, construction, and complexity is already very, very high. So adding a new shade to the otherwise conservative 1815 line up is never a bad thing, especially when done in this limited fashion. New colourway, but the same calibre The dial is ide...
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New: A. Lange & Söhne releases a new Lange 1 Time Zone and a new 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar
Two additions to the Lange collections - a new Lange 1 Time Zone platinum, & a new 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar in a white gold case/pink gold dial.
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SJX Watches
Tiffany & Co. and Richard Mille Debut Unique Pendant Watches for Only Watch 2023
The upcoming instalment of Only Watch sees both Tiffany & Co. and Richard Mille unveiling one-of-a-kind pendant watches for the charity auction. Despite having having the same basic form, both watches are drastically different. The American jeweller reimagines its trademark Bird on a Rock brooch, transforming it into a watch that features a front-facing bird perched on an aquamarine crystal set on an 18k yellow gold watch case, showcasing the artful fusion of jewellery artistry and functional timekeeping. Richard Mille’s offering, on the other hand, is the RM S14 Talisman Origine that combines ancient shamanic motifs with the brand’s avant-garde, open-worked mechanics. And like many Richard Mille watches, the movement boasts a tourbillon. Initial thoughts By opting for a pendant watch, Tiffany & Co. and Richard Mille demonstrate their creativity and willingness to explore fresh avenues. Of the two timepieces, the offering from Tiffany is arguably more compelling because it is more sculptural. In fact, it is not apparent that the Bird on a Rock is a watch at all from a distance. And the “Bird” is not mere jewellery, it is a proper mechanic watch with a manually wound calibre, albeit a basic one. Richard Mille, usually a watchmaker through and through, shows its remarkable ability to transcend expectations by transforming its distinctive, tonneau watch case into jewellery that doubles as a work of art. Despite its unusual form, Talisman is still typical Richard Mill...
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Prince Chronograph One Prototype for Only Watch 2023
Foreshadowing a return of the famous “Big Block” chronograph from 1976, Tudor has unveiled the Prince Chronograph One for Only Watch 2023. Featuring a striking 18k yellow gold case and matching bracelet, the Prince Chronograph One debuts Tudor’s first-ever in-house chronograph movement, the MT59XX – making it the first and only Tudor watch sold publicly to contain a yet-to-be-released prototype movement. Initial thoughts The Prince Chronograph One is an interesting debut for Tudor in many ways. Not only is it an attractive and well-conceived watch in its own right, it’s likely a sign of things to come, particularly with regards to the all-new in-house movement. Tudor’s prior Only Watch entries features unusual materials such as ceramic, bronze, and patinated steel; the Prince Chronograph One continues this trend. Tudor doesn’t often make watches in precious metals – the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18k is an exception – leaving that lane open for its sibling Rolex. The 42 mm case and bracelet of this unique piece are crafted from 18k yellow gold, and the screw-down crown and pushers are particularly faithful to those of the original “Big Block” and its sibling, the Rolex Daytona 6263. And it shows remarkable attention to detail that Tudor opted to produce its adjustable T-Fit clasp in 18k yellow gold for this one-off piece. The pairing of a yellow gold case with a black dial and bezel is also timely given the surging interest in the Rolex Daytona “Paul Ne...
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard and Massena LAB Follow Up on Last Year’s Regulator with a New Monopusher Chronograph
Last year’s Massena LAB collaboration with Louis Erard, a regulator in an unmistakably classic style with variants in gold and rhodium dial executions, was a success for both brands, with the watch being shortlisted for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This week, that release gets a follow up in the form of the new Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Louis Erard x Massena LAB, a monopusher chronograph that shifts the design language of last year’s release to a new complication. The driving force behind Massena LAB, to make a style of watchmaking typically reserved for only the most well heeled collectors accessible to anyone, is very much apparent in the new monopusher, as it takes both a complication and visual aesthetic that are often associated with a certain level of opulence and made them quite a bit more approachable. The monopusher is an interesting counterpoint to last year’s regulator. In terms of mechanical complexity, the monopusher has a clear edge, yet the design here is striking in its restraint. The regulator shows its time telling information in a busy cluster of hands and subdials, but with the monopusher we only get one additional register, a 30 minute counter at the 12:00 position. It’s a simple and straightforward execution of a complication that can often be something of an eye chart, and with the single pusher that simplicity is carried over to the chronograph’s literal operation as well. Aesthetically, we get a similar treatment on the ...
SJX Watches
Andersen Genève Introduces the Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition
The Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition adds another shade to the Andersen Genève collection that places dial-work above all else with its expensive, hand-made guilloché dial. Having initially been released to mark the brand’s 40th anniversary back in 2020 with a blue gold dial, the new jumping hours retains same dial but instead does it in pink gold. It celebrates the independent brand’s long-standing relationship with its Japanese clients, being created to celebrate this deep bond. Initial thoughts It is only possible to start and finish discussing this model by talking about the dial. It has more of a dominating presence than you will find on most other watches simply because there is so much dial. Originally done in blue gold, the dial is now in a “salmon” shade might seem a little old hat to many as it has been tagged as a trendy colour for several years now. Though the dial colour feels a little passé since it has been done so often, the dial is still impressively executed in terms of quality. The link between the dial colour and Japan is less obvious. The company’s chief executive, Pierre-Alexandre Aeschlimann, told us the brand did not consult with anyone in Japan about this design of the jumping hours. Still, Japanese collectors have long been trendsetters with a love for independent watchmaking, particularly in the 1980s and 1990s, so it comes as no surprise that Andersen Genève continues to see them as a valuable market. During that period, Andersen G...
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Review: The New Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel
Chopard reissues the acclaimed L.U.C 1860 watch - now without a date display - in proprietary Lucent Steel and with a salmon-coloured dial.
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Are Sinn Watches Any Good? | Sinn 556 Aquamarine Review
SJX Watches
Habring2 Introduces the Chrono-Felix Top-Second
Habring² continues its focus on affordable, interesting complications with the Chrono-Felix Top-Second. Dressed in a retro-military dial, the Top-Second is powered by the brand’s proprietary A11 movement like all Habring² watches. But it features a new (old) complication, the “Top Second”, essentially a running seconds indicator camouflaged within the “9” hour marker. Initial thoughts The Top-Second encapsulates the Habring² specialty of well-priced and interesting watches. It’s a chronograph with a complication that is the only one of its kind in modern-day watchmaking and priced under US$9,000 including 20% Austrian tax. That makes it excellent value – as is typical of Habring² – particularly considering the proprietary movement. Granted, the 1930s-military styling of the watch is fairly generic, though appealing in its functional nature. That said, Habring² is versatile when it comes to design and the brand typically unveils variations of its models so it is likely the Top-Second will return in other guises soon. Honest, affordable, and interesting First introduced in the 1960s by Mondia, a brand soon after acquired by Zenith, the Top Second is a discreet running seconds indicator. A coloured disc spins beneath a small aperture on the dial, showing that the seconds are passing and the movement is running without the need for a constant seconds hand. The Habring² take on the complication operates on the same principles as the Mondia original. A prop...
Time+Tide
Hublot’s Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon is ultra-light thanks to cutting-edge tech
Hublot’s Art of Fusion is mostly famous for their scratch-resistant King Gold, brightly-coloured ceramics and statuesque sapphire cases. It’s through this material experimentation that they earn their name as boundary pushers in high watchmaking. While it’s not exactly an invention that Hublot can claim, their utilisation of carbon fibre and the innovative Texalium is definitely … ContinuedThe post Hublot’s Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon is ultra-light thanks to cutting-edge tech appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Now in the Shop: Citizen’s Summer-Ready Promaster Dive Eco-Drive in Two Stunning Colors
There are few better ways to channel the warm glow of the summer sun on your wrist than with a gold-toned watch case. New in the shop is a pair of gold-toned stainless steel cased Promaster Dive watches from Citizen that could be your next go-to summer watch. Let’s take a closer look at this pair of divers that are just begging to hit the beach, pool, or lake. There are few better ways to channel the warm glow of the summer sun on your wrist than with a gold-toned watch case. New in the shop is a pair of gold-toned stainless steel cased Promaster Dive watches from Citizen that could be your next go-to summer watch. Let’s take a closer look at this pair of divers that are just begging to hit the beach, pool, or lake. The post Now in the Shop: Citizen’s Summer-Ready Promaster Dive Eco-Drive in Two Stunning Colors appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar – Now With A Black Dial
A new dial color is here to make us take notice of an overlooked JLC gem in pink gold.
Time+Tide
New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport collection brings a subtly sporty touch to the hit lineup
New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport collection replaces former “GT” line Collection includes two chronographs and two automatics each presented with silver dials in steel and rose gold cases, and on integrated rubber straps The Sport Auto uses new 41mm case size, with the addition of a central seconds hand the PF Micro-Rotor does not … ContinuedThe post New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport collection brings a subtly sporty touch to the hit lineup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hold On, New Orient Is HOW MUCH?! Watch Releases April 2024
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Review
The vintage-inspired GMT watch is now available in a new 39mm size, in four distinct colorways including one steel-and-gold version. If you’re like many people who’ve seen the Longines Spirit Zulu Time watch since its initial launch in 2022, you’ve probably found yourself intrigued with its clean, legible dial, sleek-looking bezel, and meticulously finished case, even if you realized afterward that you really weren’t sure what “Zulu Time” was. Good news: we’re here to explain everything you might want to know about the Longines Spirit Zulu Time. Even more good news: if you liked the first crop of watches but found them too large for your taste, Longines is now supplementing the original 42mm offerings with new 39mm versions. First, some background. As those with a background in either the armed forces or aviation (or both) likely know, “Zulu” is the radio transmission articulation for the letter “Z” (like “Alpha” for A, “Tango” for T, etc.) and the letter “Z” is used in military jargon to denote time based on the prime meridian in Greenwich, England, the longitudinal line that separates the Eastern and Western Hemispheres. Essentially, Zulu Time means the same thing as GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) or the more modern term, UTC (Universal Time Coordinated, albeit expressed in a more historically adventurous idiom, and a watch that displayed the time in this manner was particularly useful for early aviators before the rise of electronic guid...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9
Grand Seiko is well-known for a wide array of dial expressions, faceted case geometries, handsome Zaratsu finishing, and, of course, their proprietary Spring Drive system. But as one of few truly vertically integrated manufactures, Grand Seiko does have one glaring gap in their catalogue: complications. Yes, Grand Seiko has previously presented GMT watches and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: A Special Rolex Daytona For The 100th Running Of The 24 Hours Of Le Mans (With Live Pics From The Race)
Paul Newman vibes from a new white gold Cosmograph with a race-specific movement.
Time+Tide
New Rolex Daytona revealed for 24 Hours of Le Mans race centenary – what you need to know
New 18K white gold Rolex Daytona with special visual cues celebrates 100 years of 24 Hours of Le Mans race Uses a new 4132 calibre exclusive to the model that features a 24-hour counter rather than the standard 12-hour counter US$51,400 and not announced as a limited edition Rolex is typically viewed as the unfaltering … ContinuedThe post New Rolex Daytona revealed for 24 Hours of Le Mans race centenary – what you need to know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Norqain Adds a Limited Edition Freedom 60 Chrono in Ice Blue to their Lineup
The latest release from Norqain capitalizes on a recent color trend while steering the brand back from the tech forward, ultra sporty Wild One that has been the brand’s primary focus since late last year. The Freedom 60 Chrono Ice Blue Limited Edition, in a 40mm case size, sits on the opposite end of the spectrum of Norqain’s increasingly varied catalog, which now includes watches made with unusual proprietary materials and an increasing stock of limited editions. The Freedom 60 Chrono takes a more vintage inspired approach, but this version has been given a super sleek colorway that is quite contemporary. The Freedom 60 Chrono seen here has an ice blue dial with a subtle sunray effect, and is dotted with three black subdials providing readouts for elapsed minutes, hours, and running seconds. The dial has a two layer construction with the subdials sitting below the main dial for added depth, and a matching black outer ring with a white tachymeter scale for contrast. The hour markers are diamond cut and rhodium plated, and have small old radium colored lume tips at their inside edge. The date window at 4:30 is color matched to the ice blue dial, and in these photographs appears to be very well executed, proving that it is, in fact, possible to deliver a three register layout and 4:30 date window without completely fumbling the bag. The secret weapon here is really the case. The 40mm incarnation of the Freedom 60 case is dramatically more wearable and in proportion t...
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