Deployant
Very important and interesting facts about the F.P.Journe manufacture which you may not already know
We visited the manufacture F.P.Journe and bring you some insights on the maison and how their watches are made.
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Worn & Wound
The Latest From Elka is a Limited Edition with a Whiskey Inspired Dial
Just hearing the brand Elka brings back nostalgic memories of my trip to Neuchatel back in 2019, a picture perfect Swiss town bordering a very large lake. It’s often known as the “land of watchmakers” and hosts the headquarters for some of the most renowned Swiss watch brands, including Elka Watches. Elka has launched a watch and whiskey collaboration with the limited release of 25 S series watches, each to be paired with their own unique bottle of golden hued Single Malt Whiskey. Many watch collectors, including myself, take pleasure in the opportunity to enjoy an evening dram of fine Scotch or Bourbon while gazing into the dials of our most prized watches. Oftentimes you can find us comparing notes from the liquor that complement the vibe of the watch, or even superficial aesthetic cues such as the color of the whiskey matching various earthy colors found on the watch – such is the case with this limited pairing from Elka. The Whiskey that comes with this new limited edition watch from Elka is not a Scotch, nor a Bourbon – but rather a single malt by the name of Loch Lat that has been distilled in Neuchatel and aged in Cognac casks. Whiskey that has not been distilled in Scotland lawfully cannot bear the official name of a Scotch (the same goes for Bourbon which needs to be made within the USA) and that’s the case here with this Swiss single malt not bearing either label. This new S series release from Elka is very elegant and dressy in appearance, but ...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Certified Pre-Owned
Vacheron Constantin (VC) has just announced its Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) programme. Focused on recent VC timepieces, the CPO offerings will all be certified and serviced by the brand, and accompanied by a two-year warranty. The CPO programme will also allow clients to trade-in their VC timepieces for a new model. The CPO programme is making its debut with Watchfinder, the pre-owned watch merchant owned by VC’s parent company, the Swiss luxury group Richemont. In time to come, it will progressively be rolled out at VC boutiques, third-party retailers, and even auction houses. Each CPO watch will be accompanied by a two-year international warranty, a “Digital Passport”, and an VC guarantee letter. Watches sold through the CPO programme will be delivered in a VC pouch with a VC seal tag. Strictly speaking, CPO programme isn’t the first time VC is offering pre-owned watches. For several years, select boutiques have carried watches from Les Collectionneurs, vintage VC watches restored and certified by the manufacture. Practically all of the Les Collectionneurs watches are over 40 years old. On the other hand, the CPO programme is distinct as it covers more recent timepieces, including current models.
SJX Watches
Andreas Strehler Debuts Hand Engraved Faune et Flore
Andreas Strehler, known for his complex movements, recruited master engraver Roman Houdek for a collection of floral-themed watches, the Faune et Flore. With each made to order, the timepieces of Faune et Flore are presented in Strehler’s signature ovoid Papillon case and powered by an in-house calibre. The dials are open worked and intricately hand engraved by Mr Houdek. Initial thoughts Though the new line is a departure from the brand’s usual focus on complications, free-hand engraving is no less of an achievement. An art that requires tremendous skill, it is refreshing to see Strehler attempt something different. Elaborate in style, the Faune et Flore departs from Strehler’s traditional aesthetic. While that may not appeal to technical-minded enthusiasts at first glance, the quality of the engraving is easily apparent and complements the case shape. Unsurprisingly given Mr Strehler’s technical talent, the engraved dials are not actually traditional dials. The engraved 18k gold plate serves as a functional bridge for the movement, supporting part of the going train and the two barrels. As a result, there are jewels set into the plate, which form decorative elements in the engraving. Because the engraved plate is functional as well as decorative, this construction requires even more careful work than a conventional engraved dial, in order to ensure the open-worked sections don’t compromise with integrity or flatness of the bridge. That in turn has to be balance...
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon is the Most Expensive Watch by an Independent
The first wristwatch ever sold by François-Paul Journe is now the most expensive timepiece made by an independent watchmaker: the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” just sold for CHF7.32 million (equivalent to US$8.36 million), including fees, at Phillips in Geneva. Delivered in 1993 to an astute Parisian collector, the watch was the second wristwatch ever made by Mr Journe. He retained possession of the first wristwatch, which now resides in his museum. As far as François-Paul Journe is an important watchmaker, Tourbillon “15/93” is an important watch – a fact proven by the hefty price. Despite the headline number, the bidding for Tourbillon “15/93” was unexpectedly truncated. As soon as auctioneer Aurel Bacs opened the bidding at a mere CHF1 million, Paul Boutros shouted a CHF5 million bid, causing a stir in the room. Mr Boutros, the watch department chief for the Americas, was bidding on behalf of a client on the phone who is perhaps the world’s biggest F.P. Journe collector. The huge opening bid quickly eliminated all other bidders – there were a half dozen other phone bidders – save for one gentleman in the room who has good taste and an impressive collection of independent watchmaking. The gentleman in the room made two more bids but bowed out (though he did win another notable timepiece during the sale), leaving Mr Boutros’ client to walk away with the watch for CHF6 million hammer, which is CHF7.32 million with fees. Th...
Deployant
New: Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe is a limited-edition timepiece designed to commemorate the Vendée Globe, a grueling solo sailing race around the world. The independant Swiss watch maison, that built its name supplying accurate, reliable marine chronometers to the world’s navies in the 19th century, will serve as an Official Partner and the Official Timekeeper of the Vendée Globe, the World’s largest solo, non-stop, unassisted round the-world sailing race.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Vintage Seamaster in Great Condition, a Funky Seiko LCD, and a Classic Bulova Diver
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Deep Sea Bulova made a plethora of dive watch models back in the day, and a few of them have been reissued as modern ‘heritage’ remakes. The reason is the vintage Bulova divers are almost all awesome, and this 666ft diver is a perfect example. This model came in two styles, the silver dial seen here and also a black dial. Some were branded as “Snorkel” and some did not have that model name on the dial, like this one. This example is in excellent condition, and the original dial looks fantastic with the original lume. The diver’s bezel is missing the lume pip and the numbers and lines should have black paint, but otherwise this is a stellar example. The original crown is signed as it should be, and the movement is clean and runs well per the seller. These are hard to find in this shape these days. View auction here Vintage Mido Multifort Here’s a great little vintage Mido Multifort Powerwind dress watch. The nearly 30mm steel case is in good condition, maybe mildly polished at some point, but the caseback is nice and sharp. The silver dial is clean and looks original, with nice stylized numbers and slim arrows. The dauphine hands have large lume filled plot...
Quill & Pad
The Ongoing Saga Of The World’s Most Complicated Wristwatch: Superbia Humanitatis By Louis-Elysée Piguet, Franck Muller, And Paul Gerber (Plus Video)
The Superbia Humanitatis Louis-Elysée Piguet/Franck Muller/Paul Gerber super complication is one of the most legendary watches of our time. And what a story! And here it is in its entirety: from 1892 when Piguet made the movement through 1992 when Franck Muller altered it, all the way through the present day when Paul Gerber modified it three more times to make it the most complicated wristwatch in the world.
Fratello
Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe
The new Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe celebrates one of the most taxing sailing races. It’s also the most sustainable watch yet from the Swiss brand. Let’s take a closer look at this sporty and colorful diver. Ulysse Nardin is no stranger to supporting lengthy, challenging races. The Gumball 3000 comes to mind in […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The New and Extraterrestrial Louis Moinet Starman
Every timepiece crafted by Jean-Marie Schaller and his watchmaking team at Louis Moinet promises one sure thing – it will captivate, invite a closer look, and often spark curiosity about the stories behind it. The latest creation, the Starman, exemplifies this spirit; it is a luxurious, quintessentially Louis Moinet piece made with fragments from two […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer
During Geneva Watch Days 2024, we had the opportunity to visit Lederer. The brand focuses on highly technical escapements, which are made by Bernhard Lederer. The new Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer stood out among the various timepieces we saw due to its impressive movement and testing schedule. My colleague Dave Sergeant and I paled […] Visit Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A Unique, Fully-Engraved Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A for Charity
Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe has just revealed its unique creation to benefit Children Action, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A. Slated to be sold at auction with all proceeds going to the Geneva charity, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A is entirely stainless steel and entirely engraved. The engraved Nautilus is the latest one-off wristwatch Patek Philippe has created for the charity founded by Swiss financier Bernard Sabrier that helps disadvantaged children. Past watches include the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium and last year’s ref. 5270T in titanium with a green dial that sold for almost CHF10 million. The case, bezel, bracelet, and case back are hand engraved with a “Maori-inspired” motif that’s matched with a dark grey dial. While aftermarket engraving has been applied to various Nautilus models in the past, this is the first factory-original specimen decorated in this manner. Patek Philippe’s catalogue does include several complicated models decorated with engraving, most famously the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002, but they all complicated and in precious metal. This is the first and only Nautilus (or sports watch of any sort) with an engraved case, and also the only steel model with engraving. The watch is accompanied by a pair of matching cufflinks in engraved steel, which are equally unique as Patek Philippe ordinarily only sells gold cufflinks. The matching cufflinks ref. 205.9057A-010 The Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A will be...
SJX Watches
Biver Reveals Unique Automatique for Charity
Although it’s been less than two years since its founding, Biver has already launched its second model, the Automatique. Using that as the base, the brand created the Automatique “Echoes of this Moment”, a unique piece crafted in collaboration with a Swiss artist for TimeForArt, a charity auction taking place in November to benefit the Swiss Institute, a nonprofit focused on contemporary art education. Initial thoughts The standard Automatique is undeniably a finely executed watch, especially the micro-rotor automatic calibre within. Although the aesthetics of the regular-production model aren’t perfectly cohesive, the exquisite quality of the movement and attention to detail make it one of the most interesting new time-only creations from an independent. This unique piece improves the aesthetics of the Automatique because it simplifies the design. The standard version has an elaborately finished dial that combines too many elements – faceted indices, brushed sectors, an engraved seconds track, and sharp polished hands. In contrast, the unique Automatique keeps the look simple, while still having a complex, artisanal dial decoration. Here the handmade dial – that’s both engraved and enamelled – can be admired for what it is, with no distractions. An artful dial The New York-based Swiss Institute was set up to promote contemporary art through events and exhibitions. Now in its second edition, TimeForArt was conceived to benefit the non-profit. Biver is one o...
Time+Tide
Is that a real stone dial? A guide to natural, treated, and created stones
Stone dials are slowly becoming a trend, but they are not always what they seem, with some man-made, some treated, and mislabelled. The post Is that a real stone dial? A guide to natural, treated, and created stones appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
In-Depth - The Battle of Green Bezel Rolex Submariner, Kermit 16610LV vs. Starbucks 126610LV
Rolex… Whether you like the brand or not, whether you appreciate its watches or not, whether you understand the hype or not, it is hard to objectively deny the sheer quality and aura of its timepieces. There are obvious reasons for its success, for it to be the number one Swiss watch brand. And then […]
Fratello
#TBT André Le Marquand’s Timeless Spaceman Audacieuse
It’s safe to say that 1969 was a strong year on all fronts, including for the watch industry. If the Moon landing is not enough, think of the first automatic chronograph conquering wrists or quartz watches waving their hands to them with a sneer of the coming revolution. That was the general context when Swiss […] Visit #TBT André Le Marquand’s Timeless Spaceman Audacieuse to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Piaget renames the Black Tie as the Andy Warhol, marking the occasion with a luxe Clou de Paris model
The Piaget Andy Warhol name is now official, with a luxe new model and made-to-order program now available to boot.The post Piaget renames the Black Tie as the Andy Warhol, marking the occasion with a luxe Clou de Paris model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Tudor Announces the FXD “Zulu Time,” the First Pelagos with a GMT Complication
Sooner or later, you just knew it was going to happen. For as long as there’s been a Pelagos, and as long as there’s been a Tudor GMT movement, and as long as there’s been a human impulse to speculate, there’s been a call for the Swiss brand to release a Pelagos with the ability to track multiple time zones. It just makes sense for the brand’s most tool-forward dive watch: GMTs are what the people want and it’s an undeniably useful feature. And so, like an infinite number of chimpanzees at an infinite number of typewriters are certain to eventually produce the works of Shakespeare, now Tudor has finally issued a diver with all the features their loyal fans have been asking for. Titanium case: check. GMT movement with chronometer certification: check. Rotating 24 hour bezel: check. Spring bars: hey, no one has it all. The all new Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” might feel like an inevitability on the one hand, but on the other it still has a fascinating mix of little quirks that are capable of surprising even the most loyal Tudor fans (and speculators). Like the very first Pelagos FXD, this one is presented under a partnership with the French military. Specifically, the Zulu Time has been developed with the needs of the Aéronautique Navale (French Naval Aviation) in mind, and according to the brand the watch has been designed for the “adverse real-world conditions” faced by their personnel. For the original FXD, that meant a bi-directional bezel set up in...
Monochrome
Introducing - The new Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time x Marine Nationale
Tudor‘s connection with military forces is no secret anymore. The most famous of these partnerships is, without a doubt, the co-creation of specific dive watches for the French Marine Nationale, which resulted in some of the most appealing mil-spec models ever made by Tudor. Revived in 2021 with the launch of the Pelagos FXD platform, […]
SJX Watches
Zenith and Porter-Yoshida Pilot Watches in Green Ceramic
Porter, a Japanese cult brand famous for its functional nylon bags, has lent its signature colours to Zenith to create the Pilot Central Automatic Porter and the Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph Porter. The new Pilot duo retain the familiar aviation-inspired design, but in green with orange accents, including for the first time a case in khaki green ceramic. Both models are delivered with two straps: a conventional Cordura-effect rubber strap and a green nylon strap made by Porter. Initial thoughts While the Pilot Porter isn’t an iconic classic like Zenith’s El Primero, it is a unique take on the traditional aviator’s watch that is different but still functional, not unlike Porter bags that are popular for their no-frills quality. The green and orange livery is appealing and avoids the usual pilot’s watch look, but remains entirely legible and utilitarian. Priced at US$11,300 for the time-only variant and US$15,500 for the chronograph, the Pilot Porter is priced comparably to the equivalent regular-production Pilot models. Though both are more expensive than Zenith’s offerings in steel, they are priced reasonably enough considering the material and movement, as well as the competition. Khaki green Porter is the most famous label owned by Yoshida & Co., a Japanese maker of luggage and bags. Usually in dark-coloured nylon with contrast-colour lining, Porter bags are multi-pocketed and useful (and also quite pricey for nylon bags). The Pilot Porter models adopt th...
Fratello
Chasing My Doubts And Blues Away With The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue” Boutique Edition
I am a big fan of the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition,” but the Black Bay Chrono? Not so much. Neither the black and white versions nor the steel and gold model ever struck a chord with me. And the pink version? Well, once I saw it on a wrist in Geneva, it made […] Visit Chasing My Doubts And Blues Away With The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue” Boutique Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Ochs und Junior Christmas Edition 2024 goes back to the basics of the 2008 Settimana
Ochs und Junior (in reality, it should be written ochs und junior, no capital letters) was founded in 2006 by Ludwig Oechslin, Beat Weinmann and Kurt König – the former being one of the most revered inventors of the Swiss watch industry, the former Director of the International Museum of Horology and the man who […]
Deployant
Review: The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds
H. Moser & Cie presents the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds, the Swiss brand's first timepiece with a retrograde seconds display.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Sherpa Ultradive Moon and Ultradive Sun Compressor Divers
The Sherpa was a model name in the Ultrasonic series by the Enicar watch company, created to honour the “indefatigable Sherpas” who played a vital role in the 1956 Swiss Expedition to Mount Everest and Lhotse. The expedition, led by Albert Eggler, was equipped with Enicar Ultrasonic watches for timekeeping. The Sherpas, carrying heavy loads […]
Monochrome
Interview - Rolf Studer, Co-CEO of Oris, on the Recent Developments of the Brand
Headquartered in Hölstein, at the northern edge of the Swiss Jura, Oris sits on the outermost boundary of Switzerland’s traditional watchmaking region. This area had a long history of specialising in affordable pin-lever watches. And although the brand had to reinvent itself, this heritage has naturally shaped Oris’s philosophy of “Go your own way”. With […]
Worn & Wound
Introducing the Alterum Worldtimer, a Minimalist Take on a Notoriously Busy Complication
You might be familiar with the work of Justin Walters through his work with Marin Instruments, which burst onto the microbrand watch scene back in 2021 with a unique, contemporary spin on the classic skin diver. Justin has just launched a new brand, the Alterum Watch Company, which he’s been teasing to those of us in the industry for nearly as long. It’s great to see the watch finally made public, and to see Justin fully emerge as one of the most interesting watch design minds working today. Between this initial release for Alterum and the ongoing work with Marin, we’re seeing a clear, modern aesthetic evolve right before our eyes. Best of all, these watches are accessible to just about anyone, proving once again that you don’t need to spend a small fortune for thoughtful and interesting design. The working principle behind the Alterum Worldtimer is one of simplicity, or “cutting away the chaos,” as Justin puts it. We’ve heard and seen this before, of course. Many brands attempt to reach a minimal design, but it’s hard to think of one that starts with a worldtimer, a genre of watch that’s busy almost by definition. But it’s a good test, when you think about it. If the goal of Alterum as a brand is simplicity and clarity, finding success with a worldtimer would seem to bode quite well for future projects. In many ways the Alterum Worldtimer feels familiar, at least in its functionality, but when you really start digging into the details you come to und...
Monochrome
Introducing - Back to Basics with the Ming 37.02 Minimalist
Hailing from the world of photography, Malaysian entrepreneur Ming Thein has always had a passion for watches. It’s, in fact, how he made a name for himself before setting out to create his own watch brand. Over the years following the inaugural MING 17.01 in 2017, we’ve witnessed his keen eye for craftsmanship, originality and […]
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367
Breguet’s ultra-thin tourbillon has been in its catalogue for some years now, but it remains one of the brand’s most sophisticated tourbillon models. The Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 is just 7.45 mm high, making it one of the thinnest self-winding tourbillon watches on the market, a feat made possible thanks to clever peripheral winding. Though its movement is the brand’s latest tourbillon calibre, the 5367 is presented in classic Breguet style – with the enamel dial here or as the 5365 with a guilloche dial – and retains the quintessential Breguet elegance. Initial thoughts Unlike Breguet’s flagship tourbillon model, the massive Double Tourbillon 5345, the 5367 is slim, elegant, and feels like a classical Breguet. In terms of proportions the 5367 is comparable to the 7637 minute repeater, but the tourbillon is thinner and importantly, boasts a more modern movement. The enamel dial is available in traditional white or contemporary blue While the 7637 repeater is powered by a movement that has its roots in the 1980s, the 5367 contains the cal. 581, which is instantly recognisable as a recent construction. The most obvious giveaway is the automatic rotor camouflaged on the periphery, while the tourbillon contains a silicon escapement. The modernity of the construction means the cal. 581 lacks the old-school charm of Breguet’s earlier tourbillon movements, but the sophistication of the cal. 581 is undeniable. Not only is it exceptionally thin, it manages an impre...
Worn & Wound
Straum Debuts the Jan Mayen Basalt Limited Edition
If you’ve followed our recent coverage of Straum, you probably already know that they’ve been teasing a new entry in their Jan Mayen collection for some time. This weekend, at the Windup Watch Fair, the new watch from the Scandinavian brand made its public debut. The Jan Mayen Basalt Limited Edition builds on the themes the brand has been working with for a few years now with their contemporary integrated bracelet sports watch design, adding some new dial elements with this LE that change the dynamic of the watch considerably while leaning into the brand’s ethos. It’s perhaps a little more avant-garde in nature than their previous efforts, but it seems like the type of watch that Straum’s biggest fans will immediately identify with. The star of the show here is clearly the dial, which Straum tells us is made from volcanic basalt rock sourced from the island of Jan Mayen. The ultra thin wafers of rock are filled with naturally occurring holes through which the dial base is seen, creating the effect of a magma-like substance gurgling under the surface of the earth. If that sounds dramatic, it’s because, well, it is. The effect in person is quite remarkable. Because the dials are made from rock, no two are exactly alike, and asymmetry abounds, so this watch feels like more an art piece than a hearty tool, but that’s perfectly fine in my opinion. There are three limited dial variants: Magma Red, Radiant Mist, and Volcanic Grey. The latter is likely the most res...
Fratello
Space Watches: Edgar Mitchell’s Rolex GMT-Master 1675 And Dave Scott’s Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11
It’s not common for a watch of great rarity related to the Space Race of the Apollo Era to appear in a watch or space auction. Even more uncommon is finding several distinctive examples of rare watches from two premier Swiss brands related to mankind’s voyage to the Moon. Within RR Auction’s current Space Exploration […] Visit Space Watches: Edgar Mitchell’s Rolex GMT-Master 1675 And Dave Scott’s Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 to read the full article.