Hodinkee
Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Updates Its Complicated Duometre Collection With A Trio Of New Watches
One escapement, two barrels and gear trains, three new Duometres.
Results for Monaco, McQueen, and Le Mans (1971)
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
First Look - The Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Chronograph
There was a time when watch companies looked to the future, trying to capture the mood, technology, and materials of what might be happening in the coming decades. Then there was the trend for vintage or retro-styled watches, and brands with aeons of heritage dug up classics from the past and revisited them with contemporary […]
Worn & Wound
Time Through the Ages, Part 1: the English Watch Making Heyday - Where Did It All Start?
Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this first installment, Andrew provides an overview of the major players and accomplishments from the early days of British watch and clock making. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster. Many people believe that the origin of modern-day watchmaking came from the Swiss, but it all started in England back in the early 17th century. The 1620s saw a desire by clock and watch makers to establish a dedicated company as a representative body, but this was met with opposition from the other livery companies – guilds or associations in the City of London to regulate and protect the interest of their members – in particular the Blacksmiths. The Worshipful Company of Clockmakers eventually received its Royal Charter on 22nd August 1631. The Charter created a corporate body for all the Clock and Watch makers in the City of London and within a radius of ten miles around, with regulatory powers covering England and Wales. It specified that the new Fellowship should be governed by a Master, three Wardens and ten or more Assistants who would form a Court. The first Master was David Ramsay, former Chief Clockmaker to King James I. Left to right: engraved dial plate with indications for time of day, annual calendar, sign of the zodiac, day of the...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Twelve X From Christopher Ward
The watch is a striking skeletonized celebration of 20 years of brand history and 10 years of the Caliber SH21 in-house movement.
Fratello
The April 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Apollo XIII
It has been a busy few months for Omega, introducing the Apollo 8, Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with a white dial, and the new Speedmaster 38 models. I expect to see some more Speedmaster releases in 2024, not least of all because it is a significant Apollo 11 anniversary. But we should also not forget about […] Visit The April 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Apollo XIII to read the full article.
Deployant
Review: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon
Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the all-new Duometre Chronograph Moon in platinum with copper dial and pink gold with silver opaline dial.
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Perpetual Motions of the Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon
Modern watches made by Roger Dubuis are the antithesis of understatement and always manage to deliver a compelling mix of traditional horological content with a dash of extravagant, expressive design. This year’s releases focused on the flying tourbillon, culminating in the Orbis in Machina model with its rare, centrally mounted regulator (only a few can […]
SJX Watches
Up Close: Patek Philippe Cloisonné World Time Ref. 605 HU DE “World Map”
One of the highlights this coming spring auction season in Geneva is prime example of a rare watch at Antiquorum. Consigned by the family of the original owner, the Patek Philippe World Time Cloisonné “World” ref. 605 HU DE in pink gold is both in fine condition and boasting a possibly unique combination of features, namely a pink gold case, a “world” motif cloisonné dial in unusual colours, and early “observatory” style hands. Produced for some three decades from about 1937 to the 1950s, the ref. 605 HU (short for heure universelles, or “universal time”) is a quintessential Louis Cottier-type world time; its wristwatch counterpart was the ref. 2523 HU. Just over 80 were made over the production run, with about two-thirds in yellow gold and the rest in pink gold. They were made by Louis Cottier in his Geneva workshop in an artisanal manner, explaining the variances across examples. Most were equipped with conventional metal dials, including rare examples in pink or black, but from the 1940s onwards, Patek Philippe began selling the ref. 605 HU with cloisonné enamel dials. Less than 20 were made with cloisonné dials, most depicting map motifs of some sort. A handful, maybe just two, featured figurative dials, including the ref. 605 HU in the Patek Philippe Museum with the Greek sea god Neptune on the dial (that Antiquorum sold in 1989). This example is rare for having a map of the entire world – only two others are known – as well as being in pink go...
Fratello
Getting To Know The Watch Collectors’ Club
The Watch Collectors’ Club allows connoisseurs and enthusiasts to gather for watch-related events. You may have heard of similar watch groups, such as the long-running RedBar chapters or Time4APint in London. Where The Watch Collectors’ Club differs is going that extra mile for bespoke events and tailored experiences. Unlike RedBar, The Watch Collectors’ Club uses […] Visit Getting To Know The Watch Collectors’ Club to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Haute Horlogerie On A Budget - Relatively Speaking
This week, Fratello On Air returns to its normally scheduled slot with a look at some Haute Horlogerie that can be bought at a fair price. To be clear, we’re focusing more on high-end complications that usually cost an arm and a leg. This is the second half of an episode we recorded a week […] Visit Fratello On Air: Haute Horlogerie On A Budget - Relatively Speaking to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Business News: Greubel Forsey Gets New CEO
Greubel Forsey has just announced a change of leadership, with Michel Nydegger assuming the role of chief executive officer. Interestingly, the current chief executive officer, Antonio Calce, will then become a vice president starting August 2024. Mr Nydegger joined the brand eight years ago and rose to his present role of head of marketing and communications in 2021, shortly after Mr Calce took over. Mr Nydegger was part of the team that supercharged Greubel Forsey’s revenue and profitability, and embarked on an expansion of its “inclined” manufacture, thanks in part to a bestselling line of sports watches introduced by Mr Calce. According to the company, despite the management changes, “Greubel Forsey will remain independent, with Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, and Antonio Calce continuing as shareholders.” The significance of this leadership transition at Greubel Forsey is not yet publicly known, although there has been talk that the brand is seeking new investors. The company’s ownership structure was simplified in 2022 when Richemont sold its 20% stake to Messrs Greubel, Forsey, and Calce. One rumoured scenario is that a consortium led by a well-known industry personality is taking over Greubel Forsey, something that may be announced in fall 2024.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: The Nivada Grenchen F77 Lapis Lazuli
Nivada Grenchen’s F77 was a big hit when it was released last year. With an integrated bracelet, 37mm case, and exposed-screw bezel, the F77 captured all the fun of 1970s sports watches. Even better, this was no mere homage: the watch has actual heritage street cred as a reissue of a model produced by Nivada Grenchen in 1977. Now, Nivada Grenchen has leaned even further into that 70s funk, with four new dials for the F77. I got to go hands-on with arguably the funkiest of the bunch: the F77 Lapis Lazuli. The F77 LL keeps all the specs that made the original a hit, but with a new dial crafted entirely from–as you may have guessed from the name–lapis lazuli. The other three dials in the new F77 releases are beautiful, with one dial featuring an anthracite basket-weave pattern, another made of aventurine, and one limited-edition model in meteorite. But despite the attractiveness of the other models, the F77 Lapis Lazuli is the clear standout. The blue of the lapis is vibrant and eye-catching, while the speckled pattern evokes a starry night’s sky. And because it is made of stone, each lapis lazuli dial will be unique. Despite being something of a novelty in today’s market, the lapis lazuli dial is true to the 1970s vibe Nivada Grenchen is trying to capture in the watch. Stone dials had their moment back in that era, and lapis dials are particularly collectable. (Just look up the lapis Rolex Datejust that now sells for tens of thousands of dollars.) Fashion is ...
Worn & Wound
Hanhart Introduces the New Limited Production Preventor9
There is something undeniable about a blacked-out pilot’s watch. I don’t know exactly what makes the recipe work so well, but you don’t have to look far to see that it does. From that perspective, it’s no wonder that it’s a formula Hanhart, a brand well known for their pilot’s watches, would fall back on. The Swiss-German brand’s latest model takes this recipe and runs with it, building off the existing Preventor9 from a few years ago and tweaking it to produce what is undeniably a very compelling option. The Preventor9 S - the “S” stands for “schwarz,” the German word for black, not to be confused with “Schwartz,” the mystical force from the film Spaceballs - is about as simple a watch as you can find from Hanhart, and that’s a good thing. Hanhart is a brand best known for producing watches with a very specific look. They’re one of those brands you can typically spot across a room, with their distinctive fluted bezels and red pushers. The Preventor9 stood out when it was released precisely because it didn’t stand out. Gone was the heavily fluted bezel, the chronograph with its red pusher, and any sense of the extraneous. Of course, That’s not to say the Preventor9 is without any of Hanhart’s signature flair. The Preventor9 keeps Hanhart’s signature cathedral hands and features a small seconds display at the nine o’clock position. Historically, the small seconds display at nine o’clock was the result of one of two things: E...
Worn & Wound
Eberhard & Co. Debut Two New Chronographs at their First Watches & Wonders
Earlier this month at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, Eberhard & Co. unveiled two new chronographs, expanding its 1887 line-up, first developed in 2019. The Swiss brand unveiled both the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée and the Chronographe 1887 Automatique. These timepieces represent a fusion of tradition and modernity, paying homage to the brand’s founding date and its rich heritage that has made it a staple on the Swiss market for over 130 years. According to the Maison, the development process of these chronographs was meticulous, involving extensive research and study of original Eberhard & Co. chronographs dating back to the 1930s. Preserved at the Eberhard & Co. Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds, these timepieces served as the primary source of inspiration for the design and technical aspects of the new releases. Both the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée and the Chronographe 1887 Automatique are powered by exclusive calibers developed in collaboration with Manufacture AMT. The movements (EB 280 and EB 380, respectively) feature a column wheel and the fly-back complication, a nod to the precision timing required in aviation during the 1930s. The EB 280 in the Limitée is manually wound, while the EB 380 in the Automatique is, as the name of the watch implies, self-winding. The primary aesthetic difference between the two references is the use of baton style hour markers on the Limtée and Breguet numerals on the Automatique. Each is available with white or black dials...
SJX Watches
Fabled “Lost” Cartier ‘Pendule Magnétique’ Water Clock Rediscovered
Although Cartier watches are now enjoying a streak of popularity, thanks in part to social media, the jeweller’s greatest timekeepers are arguably not wristwatches but clocks, namely the lavish and inventive clocks made in the first half of the 20th century that rank amongst the most impressive clocks ever made. Not only were most carefully designed and ornately decorated, many feature unique, “mysterious” time display mechanisms. A quartet of such clocks long hidden in a discreet collection, has just emerged at Phillips and will soon go under the hammer. All four are Chinese-themed Art Deco creations typical of Cartier’s work of the period, and include an example of the famous mystery clock, specially a single-axle version inlaid with turquoise. But the highlight is a long-lost pendule de table magnétique, or magnet clock, sometimes also known as a turtle- or water clock. The most elaborate water clock ever made by Cartier, this example is a large jade bowl containing a carp floating on water that serves as the hour hand. Made in 1929 by Cartier Paris and sold by its New York branch, this water clock was lost for decades and known only from drawings in Cartier’s archives. It finally reemerged at Christie’s in 1990, where it was sold to the current owner. The clock then remained inaccessible in the owner’s collection, although it was mentioned in several Cartier books, including the well-known tomes by Francois Chaille and Franco Cologni, and Hans Nadelhoffe...
Time+Tide
CIGA Design’s Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition represents another peak for Chinese watchmaking
This exceedingly competitively priced central tourbillon watch commemorates the 70th anniversary of Hillary and Norgay's ascent of Everest.The post CIGA Design’s Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition represents another peak for Chinese watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Start The Week With A Bang - A Hublot Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic 42mm
Green is the color of money, right? If so, shouldn’t green also be the most expensive color? Well, it isn’t at Hublot. The new Hublot Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic 42mm costs €5,800 less than the same watch in orange. Hublot explained why during Watches and Wonders, but that story didn’t make me change […] Visit Start The Week With A Bang - A Hublot Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic 42mm to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Hanhart Preventor9 S Limited Edition
A Swiss-born brand then relocated to Germany, Hanhart has a long tradition of making pilot’s watches. Mostly, its chronographs equipped with the calibre 40 and 42 have been some of the defining models for the genre, proving their reliability on battlefields and on the wrist of many airforces after conflicts. For its latest release, Hanhart […]
Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Laureato: An Underappreciated Royal Oak Alternative?
It will surprise nobody that over the last 5 years certain steel sports watches have taken off in terms of popularity and become practically impossible to buy at an authorized retailer. However, fear not as there is still a unicorn out there that has not captured broader attention (yet): the Girard-Perregaux Laureato.
Fratello
IFL Watches Introduces The Limited Edition Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Free Willie
IFL Watches keeps surprising us with creative new dial variations for its releases. This time, the Stockhlom-based brand delves into the Disney archives and celebrates the joyous spirit of Mickey Mouse. To be more exact, the brand celebrates the Disney classic Steamboat Willie coming into the public domain. This animated short film is known as […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Limited Edition Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Free Willie to read the full article.
Revolution
Inside Cartier’s Watches & Wonders 2024 Booth With Cyrille Vigneron, CEO of Cartier
As we wander through the captivating displays at Watches & Wonders 2024, CEO Cyrille Vigneron shares insights into the core values that have propelled Cartier to its prominent position in the watch industry. His commitment to excellence, innovation, and timeless elegance resonates in every exquisite timepiece showcased at the event. With a keen eye for […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe introduced the World Time with Date ref. 5330G-001, the brand’s first regular-production world time with a date. Although the model officially debuted last June with a 300-piece, purple-dial limited edition for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Japan, the ref. 5330G-001 brings this complication into the mainstream with global distribution and a more versatile colour palette. Initial thoughts The ref. 5330G is quintessential Patek Philippe is several ways. It embodies a complication synonymous with the brand that is presented in a slim case. The overall aesthetic is modern but clearly vintage inspired. And the movement incorporates a complication that is cleverly executed and necessarily thin to fit the case. So conceptually, it is appealing. The ref. 5330G is also appealing in terms of its tangible qualities. It has good proportions and a refined, polished appearance that is typical of modern Patek Philippe watches. What do I not like? The carbon pattern dial is intrinsically attractive – it is done well and modern in feel – but feels a bit overused. Earlier world time models, on the other hand, had dial patterns that were unique to the reference. And the other is the Patek Philippe pricing. At over US$76,000, the ref. 5330G is steeply priced for a relatively straightforward pair of complications, even considering the ingenious construction of the date. But it is a Patek Philippe, and the unrivalled brand name alone accounts ...
Worn & Wound
Last Minute Graduation Gift Ideas
Students everywhere are winding down their year, and the big day is just around the corner. Marking the transition to a new life stage is no small feat, and a graduation gift is a longstanding tradition. Shopping for a budding watch enthusiast is notoriously tricky, but we’ve got some ideas. Whether it’s a quality watch to make a first impression at a new job, or a thoughtful accessory to the young collector, here are a few of our picks from the Shop. From the Windup Team to all new graduates: congratulations and all the best in your future endeavors! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to set up demos and answer any questions you have. Students everywhere are winding down their year, and the big day is just around the corner. Marking the transition to a new life stage is no small feat, and a graduation gift is a longstanding tradition. Shopping for a budding watch enthusiast is notoriously tricky, but we’ve got some ideas. Whether it’s a quality watch to make a first impression at a new job, or a thoughtful accessory to the young collector, here are a few of our picks from the Shop. From the Windup Team to all new graduates: congratulations and all the best in your future endeavors! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to set up demos and answer any questions you have. The post Last Minute Graduation Gift Ideas appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 79 - Swiss Leftovers
On episode 79 of A Week in Watches, we start with a trip down memory lane, all the way back two weeks ago to Watches & Wonders 2024. Well, not exactly; rather than the fair itself, we look at the other shows and exhibitions, looking at several of the brands we got to check out. From there, we jump over to a new release by an old brand. Or, rather, the relaunch of the brand, Amida, and their most iconic watch, a jump hour with a digital display, the Digitrend. Lastly, we head over to the UK to celebrate a double anniversary with Christopher Ward through the launch of the Twelve X powered by the SH21 movement. Before diving into the week’s news, don’t forget that Windup Watch Fair San Francisco is starting on May 3rd at the Gateway Pavilion in Fort Mason and running until May 5th. It boasts over 85 brands and free admission for all, making it a perfect outing for family and friends to explore the world of watches; visit windupwatchfair.com for details. This episode is sponsored by the Windup Watch Shop. It features the exclusive Depancel x Worn & Wound Allure Valjoux 92 Chronograph collaboration, which showcases restored vintage chronograph movements visible through a display case back. The collaboration is limited to just 20 pieces and is available at windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 79 – Swiss Leftovers appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
New Watches Beyond Pal Expo, Geneva 2024 - Stanley’s Top Pick
Here we are as promised on the top picks outside of Pal Expo! I will be covering independent brands in Beau Rivage during the week of Watches and Wonders 2024.
Time+Tide
You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer!
Nomos Glahshütte has let loose with the colour wheel for its latest pieces, celebrating 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte with 31 colourful versions of the Tangente 38. Each colourway is limited to 175 pieces and focuses on one of Nomos Glashütte’s best-selling models. This time, the Tangente 38 is fitted with a hand-wound DUW4101 … ContinuedThe post You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Quick Bite: Vintage Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Aqua Lung ‘No Radiation’
At the recent FHH Roadshow in Paris, Ian Skellern saw a rare vintage Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Radiation on a wrist and was curious about why the watch had a ‘No Radiation’ symbol featuring so prominently on the dial.
Fratello
A Conversation With A Neo-Vintage Breitling Collector
I have talked about hidden gems from the 1990s in several articles over the past year. Based on that coverage, I received a message from a Dutch watch collector who focuses on Breitling watches from the 1990s. Curious about his Breitling collection and motivation, we invited him to the Fratello office to listen to his […] Visit A Conversation With A Neo-Vintage Breitling Collector to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Visiting the MB&F; M.A.D.House: Take a Virtual Tour with this Photo Fest
The M.A.D.House, as MB&F; calls its headquarters, is just like the brand’s watches – unlike anything you have ever experienced. Niclas Berglund has a tour and takes us along.
Deployant
New: Credor 50th Anniversary Eichi II
Credor marks its 50th anniversary with a special edition of the Eichi II with a deep blue porcelain dial with hand painted indices and logo.