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Habring2 Chrono-Felix Panda: Relatively Affordable, Eminently Wearable, In-House Monopusher Chronograph Quill & Pad
Nov 7, 2020

Habring2 Chrono-Felix Panda: Relatively Affordable, Eminently Wearable, In-House Monopusher Chronograph

At only 38.5 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm in height, the Habring2 Chrono-Felix Panda is almost as svelte as its time-only sibling Felix, and the absence of a customary second pusher for the chronograph’s reset function makes it look much lighter than a two-pusher chronograph. Elizabeth Doerr fell in love with this test watch and was sad to send it back after the review; find out why here.

Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Power Control Deployant
Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Nov 7, 2020

Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Power Control

This spring, Chopard will proudly reprise its role as main sponsor and official timekeeper of Italy’s world famous Mille Miglia classic car rally, a position it has held continuously since 1988. Each year, Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has demonstrated his passion for automobiles by competing in the gruelling, 1,000-mile contest that runs from Brescia to Rome and back – and each year the Maison produces a new Mille Miglia watch collection to celebrate what is regularly described as 'the most beautiful race in the world'.

Cartier Introduces the Métiers d’Art Straw and Gold Marquetry Panther SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Nov 7, 2020

Cartier Introduces the Métiers d’Art Straw and Gold Marquetry Panther

A recurring theme in Cartier’s watchmaking is Métiers d’Art – or “artisanal crafts” – where traditional decorative techniques are employed to create elaborate, intricate decoration on the watch dial, and occasionally the case. This year’s Métiers d’Art offerings are a pair of Ronde Louis Cartier wristwatches that return to the brand’s signature big cat motif. Decorated with an unusual marquetry technique involving straw and gold Métiers d’Art Straw and Gold Marquetry Panther is the larger, 42 mm model for men, while the smaller, 36 mm model features enamel filigree, where the enamel has been stretched to form bamboo shoots secured to the dial with gold wire. The 36 mm model with an enamel, gold, and diamond dial Initial thoughts Artisanal decorative techniques often result in prohibitively expensive watches, which narrows their appeal. That said, many watchmakers offer such watches, but produced in small numbers. More recently, they have used old-school techniques to create modern motifs or even light-hearted, whimsicial themes. Cartier’s approach is creativity in technique rather than style. The motif is traditional and reassuringly familiar – the famous panther is executed with exemplary skill but still the panther. That said, the marquetry dial is slightly abstract, giving the panther a slightly more contemporary look. But it will still appeal best to those who appreciate the jeweller’s well-established style. The finished straw marque...

10 of the best sports watches of 2020 over $10K, with Rolex, Grand Seiko and Moser Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Nov 7, 2020

10 of the best sports watches of 2020 over $10K, with Rolex, Grand Seiko and Moser

Yesterday we explored the Top 10 sports watches under $10,000, but if you are willing to stretch your budget, there is an entirely new tier of top sports watches to explore as well. Here are 10 of the best sports watches of 2020 over $10,000. Hublot Classic Fusion 40th Anniversary yellow gold The watch that … ContinuedThe post 10 of the best sports watches of 2020 over $10K, with Rolex, Grand Seiko and Moser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Insider critique: The Omega Speedmaster Snoopy 50th Anniversary with hands-on and live pics Deployant
Omega Speedmaster Snoopy 50th Anniversary Nov 5, 2020

Insider critique: The Omega Speedmaster Snoopy 50th Anniversary with hands-on and live pics

We covered the launch of the Omega Speedmaster Snoopy 50th Anniversary with our insights and commentary earlier. And the watch made it to our shores recently, and we got up close and personal it for a photo session and hands-on. Here are our photographs. This is the third in the Snoopy Award series by Omega,Read More

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ ‘Retrospective: 2000 – 2020’ SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5970. And Nov 5, 2020

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ ‘Retrospective: 2000 – 2020’

Taking place this weekend as a live auction with only cameras, telephones, and online bidding, Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 is a thematic sale that happens the day after Phillips’ Geneva watch auction. The second sale curated with Blackbird, both the publisher of a watch magazine as well as the agent for Ferrari in Hong Kong, Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 is self explanatory: contemporary wristwatches produced in the past 20 years. The 95 lots that make up the sale are a selection of the important, interesting, and intriguing from the last two decades, including obvious candidates like the Rolex Daytona and Patek Philippe ref. 5970. And the sale also includes notable watches that usually go under the radar, like the Breguet Classique Chronometrie 7727 with magnetic balance pivots (which is possibly the most accurate Swiss-made mechanical watch of the 21st century). The Breguet Classique Chronometrie 7727 (lot 258) Importantly, the line up also encompasses a diverse selection of independent watchmaking, reflecting the rise of these niche watchmakers. Here’s a roundup of highlights from independent watchmakers, which include the Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary and the ultra-rare Opus Eleven. The selection includes the worthy Seiko Credor Eichi II and Lange 1 25th Anniversary. Neither comes from an independent watchmaker, but both are as close as it gets for establishment brands. Lot 206 – Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary No. 00/20 Philippe Dufour...

Rado Captain Cook Green Dial Review WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook Green Dial Nov 5, 2020

Rado Captain Cook Green Dial Review

Rado’s Captain Cook collection is by far one of the brands most iconic lines, a watch, as they say, designed to stand the test of time. Back when Rado released the first Captain Cook model, the Swiss Brand wasn’t known or associated with dive watches. Many of the watch brands back in the day attempted to delve into the different categories of watchmaking to expand their horizons, and Rado was no different. Typically being a dress watchmaker, Rado designed and released their first dive watch, the Captain Cook timepiece, in 1962. Captain Cook Green dial reference R32105313 The name Captain Cook was of course given to honour the explorer Captain Cook. The original 1962 Captain Cook was a serious dive watch, with a case built to survive approximately 220m of watch depth. Back in 2017, Rado re-released the 1962 Captain Cook model with a 1:1 recreation of the original, all with updated movement and materials. The design of the 2017 watch was kept the same as the original, as they retained the 37mm case sizing, red numeral on date wheel, shape of hour indices and hands, down to the spinning anchor at 12’clock position. The watch community loved this re-edition of what is a classic dive watch upon its release. With the watch becoming popular, Rado decided to make multiple iterations of the Captain Cook, with many different versions with different coloured dials being released.  Earlier this year, Rado released a new variation of the Captain Cook, with the new timepiece now ...

In Depth: Petermann Bédat 1967 Deadbeat Seconds SJX Watches
Petermann Bédat Nov 4, 2020

In Depth: Petermann Bédat 1967 Deadbeat Seconds

Formed only recently by two young watchmakers, Petermann Bédat’s very first timepiece is the 1967, a time-only wristwatch featuring an elaborate deadbeat seconds mechanism. Unusually, the brand made its debut in a gradual manner, having shown its first prototype in 2018 before launching the final version of its debut watch earlier this year. Even more unusually, the successive iterations of the 1967 progressively improved, in both style and finish, to a point where the production version of the watch is simply marvellous. Initial thoughts When I saw a prototype of the 1967 last year, I didn’t think much of the design, but the movement was clearly well done, even in as a half-finished prototype. Rather than massaging the earlier design into better shape, Petermann Bedat ditched it in favour of what you see here. Best described as a modern take on the fashionably retro “sector” dial, the dial looks good and also shows off the brilliant finishing. The decoration visible on the front hints at the quality of work, and the movement visible from the back confirms it. In the smallest details the greatest finesse is visible, in the sharp points of the deadbeat seconds anchor or the escape wheel bridge below the balance. Crucially, the watch pictured is a prototype – amongst other things, the hands are incorrect and the wheels for the deadbeat seconds mechanism are not perfectly finished – yet it is obvious the quality of execution is excellent. Beyond its tangible qua...

Barrelhand Introduces the Project 1 SJX Watches
Urwerk Nov 3, 2020

Barrelhand Introduces the Project 1

A watch brand founded by in San Francisco by a young mechanical engineer, Barrelhand’s first wristwatch is the Project 1. Inspired by Urwerk, the hand-wound Project 1 tells the time unconventionally via jumping hours and linear minutes. And it is made up of components produced with cost-effective 3D printing, resulting in a retail price of US$30,000 – reasonably accessible  as such things go. Initial thoughts I first encountered the work of Barrelhand founder Karel Bachand in 2014, when he created a replica of the Urwerk UR-202 in 3D-printed plastic. He’s spent the intervening years developing his own wristwatch, and the result is impressive, especially in its conception and smart engineering. The time display is inventive, particularly the linear minutes that’s driven by a large rotating disc resembling a vinyl record. Though the jumping hours is more ordinary, it is driven by an extra-large Maltese cross gear instead of a conventional lever-and-star-wheel set up, making it adjustable forwards and backwards (though it will not jump as instantaneously due to how the Maltese cross gear works). And the techniques used to produce many of the parts are unusual, probably reflecting Mr Bachand mechanical engineering background. The large steel lugs, for example, are produced via binder jet 3D printing. The Project 1 doesn’t have the refinement of visually-similar Swiss watches – many of its surfaces are only modestly finished – but it costs substantially less, so ...

Bulgari continues their year of giving back with the Aluminium Tricolore limited series on behalf of three Italian children’s hospitals Time+Tide
Bulgari continues their year Nov 3, 2020

Bulgari continues their year of giving back with the Aluminium Tricolore limited series on behalf of three Italian children’s hospitals

Editor’s note: Bulgari leapt to the aid of Australia earlier in the year, when they donated a glorious Serpenti to our Watch & Act! Auction in aid of the Australian bushfires. It turns out it wasn’t out of character. Since then the brand has shown tremendous moral leadership through 2020, and it continues with this … ContinuedThe post Bulgari continues their year of giving back with the Aluminium Tricolore limited series on behalf of three Italian children’s hospitals appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: An independent watchmaker explains why the new Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber is so remarkable Time+Tide
Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber Nov 1, 2020

IN-DEPTH: An independent watchmaker explains why the new Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber is so remarkable

Editor’s note: Grand Seiko turned heads at the start of 2020 with the announcement of a brand new in-house movement – the Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber. It was first launched in the Grand Seiko SLGH002 60th Anniversary Limited Edition, a quintessential yellow gold dress watch from the Japanese watchmaking firm, and it left jaws on … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: An independent watchmaker explains why the new Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber is so remarkable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Getting some Eichi, or Wisdom, from macro monster @horomariobro Time+Tide
Oris ed dealer Oct 31, 2020

Getting some Eichi, or Wisdom, from macro monster @horomariobro

Within the watch community, you will hear the phrase “in the metal” a fair bit. With some watches it is as simple as paying a quick visit to an authorised dealer to become more acclimated with a watch. However, not all watches are available to view in-store – and no, this is not a conversation … ContinuedThe post Getting some Eichi, or Wisdom, from macro monster @horomariobro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Submariner Deconstruction Video: Warning, Don’t Try This At Home – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Submariner Deconstruction Video Warning Oct 31, 2020

Rolex Submariner Deconstruction Video: Warning, Don’t Try This At Home – Reprise

Ever wondered what the inside of a Rolex Submariner looks like, then (sensibly) thought better of trying to find out? Well, wonder no more. The Watches TV has teamed up with The Naked Watchmaker, Peter Speake, to take a modern Rolex Submariner completely apart – diving right into the heart of this famous diver’s watch.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sydney shark attacks, steel sports watches and the Serica 4512 Time+Tide
Serica 4512 It’s fair Oct 29, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sydney shark attacks, steel sports watches and the Serica 4512

It’s fair to say that Andrew has been in the game a little while now. He’s spoken to more than his fair share of weird and wonderful people for Time+Tide, from Hollywood actors and directors, to watch ambassadors and even the man behind the Apple Watch. It takes someone pretty special to raise his heart … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sydney shark attacks, steel sports watches and the Serica 4512 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Review WatchAdvice
Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Oct 29, 2020

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Review

Oris has been stepping up the game lately with their recent Calibre 400 movement release, and now a watch to house this incredible movement. The Swiss brand’s current collection is made up of high-performance fit-for-purpose mechanical watches. It was a tough choice however, to see which of their current timepieces would be worthy and fit to house the new groundbreaking Calibre 400 movement. First model that was chosen to implement the new calibre 400 is the Oris Aquis Date.  Watch advice recently had an in-depth look at the Calibre 400 movement from Oris and how this is groundbreaking for not only the brand but for the watch industry as a whole. For the price that the Calibre 400 movement is offered for and the amount of value you get back, Oris has redefined what a timepiece should provide for the everyday collector.   Oris chose to use a model from the Aquis range for the Calibre 400 movement due to characteristics of the Aquis timepieces. The Aquis around the globe is recognised as being an iconic contemporary divers watch. The timepieces are robust, reliable and come equipped with a variety of functions—the perfect candidate for the Calibre 400, a movement that share the same characteristics.  Case: The new Aquis Date Calibre 400 comes in a multi-piece stainless steel 43.5mm case. The case has been designed using sharp lines and chamfered edges, creating an overall refined look. The case has a water resistance of 300m (30 Bar), making it safe for swimming and ...

Found a Patek or a Daytona at a suspiciously low price? It could be stolen stock from Amsterdam Vintage Watches. Check the serial numbers here… Time+Tide
Oct 28, 2020

Found a Patek or a Daytona at a suspiciously low price? It could be stolen stock from Amsterdam Vintage Watches. Check the serial numbers here…

The luxury watch industry is only growing around the world, and with many online publishers covering the world of horology extensively it has never been easier to learn about timepieces, their value, and the level of demand. One thing I do truly love about this hobby is there is a clear sense of community, a … ContinuedThe post Found a Patek or a Daytona at a suspiciously low price? It could be stolen stock from Amsterdam Vintage Watches. Check the serial numbers here… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How did this Rolex get past QA? Revisiting the suspicious case of the ‘Double 9’ Air-King… Time+Tide
Rolex get past QA? Revisiting Oct 27, 2020

How did this Rolex get past QA? Revisiting the suspicious case of the ‘Double 9’ Air-King…

Editor’s note: It seems to be yet another sub-sub-sub-culture within the watch collecting community. And that is the people that get some kind of a kick out of Rolex imperfections. I suppose, in lots of ways, it makes sense. They are so rare as to be freaks of nature. Recently, a new Oyster Perpetual model … ContinuedThe post How did this Rolex get past QA? Revisiting the suspicious case of the ‘Double 9’ Air-King… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY Time+Tide
Patek Philippe online sales have not Oct 26, 2020

Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY

With the ongoing pandemic, everything and everyone has had to adopt new means and methods of connecting and gathering. Each month the Horological Society of New York – who recently visited Melbourne to give watchmaking classes – would have in-person lectures that take a deep dive into the fascinating world of horology and the watch … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Endurance Pro Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Endurance Pro Review Just Oct 26, 2020

Breitling Endurance Pro Review

Just in time for Australian Summer, Breitling has released a new set of watches that is, as they state, the “ultimate athleisure watch”. The Breitling Endurance Pro comes as part of the brand’s Professional range and is a timepiece that is not only made for athletes, but for people that love the outdoors and active lifestyles. The Breitling Endurance Pro is essentially a luxury sports watch. Combining innovative materials with a sense of artistic style, this latest creation by the Swiss brand has high precision, vibrant colour design and the robustness to make it a hit among sporting enthusiasts.  The Endurance Pro fits perfectly into the world of sports, in which Breitling already has quite a history. In motorsport, Breitling has sponsored Bentley at Le Mans, while also having a longstanding partnership with the car brand in general. In the world of cycling, Breitling has already partnered with major competitions, such as Giro d’Italia and Tour de France along with cycling legends Fausto Coppi and Gino Bartali. Breitling has been offering timepieces with sports functions for a long time now, and the Endurance Pro is the latest to continue this tradition.  Breitling, a brand that used to be synonymous with aviation, today, stands for accessible sports. Sports such as running, cycling and swimming. High-performance activities that are not just limited to professionals but sports everyone can enjoy. In fact, there can be no better endorsement for the Breitling Endu...

The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1 Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 Oct 26, 2020

The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1

For us, there was only one effective way to rate and review the luxurious Seiko Challenger diver, the $9995AUD Seiko Prospex SLA037J1, a re-creation of Seiko’s first dive watch, the 62MAS, launched in 1965. And that was to put it up against a brand nobody baulks at spending that kind of money for a diver: … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Serica 4512, a tough French take on classic military utilitarian chic Time+Tide
Serica 4512 Oct 25, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Serica 4512, a tough French take on classic military utilitarian chic

The WMB came out in 2019 as an unusual and strong contender from the newly formed French microbrand Serica, through an idea from the only American on the team, author of A Man & His Watch, Matt Hranek. Inspired by the iconic Wrist Watch Waterproof of the armed forces, a tough-looking everyday tool watch with … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Serica 4512, a tough French take on classic military utilitarian chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.