Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Let's Try Something New
Character watch madness, the Black Panther effect, and way too much Space Jam.
2,592 articles · 61 videos found · page 69 of 89
Every Tudor Black Bay: 79220R/B/N, 79230, 79030 BB58, 79830RB Pro, 7939 GMT METAS, S&G, Bronze, Chrono.
Tudor finally gets the Black Bay Chrono down to 39mm, and the first version out of the gate wears a yellow-and-black "Bumblebee" dial. Here's what changes, what it costs, and why the size matters more than the colour.
The Tudor heritage diver that revived the brand and references every vintage Submariner.
39 mm × 11.9 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. MT5402
Hodinkee
Character watch madness, the Black Panther effect, and way too much Space Jam.
Quill & Pad
During a visit to D.Dornblüth & Sohn in eastern Germany, Bhanu Chopra noticed a new matte black ceramic dial in the workshop and loved the look so much that he asked the independent watchmaker to replace the more standard silver dial on his Dornblüth 99.1 with the new black one. And he's very pleased with the result.
Revolution
Introducing the world’s first Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT in Black Ceramic. The “Nuclear Option” for Revolutionand The Rake is a limited edition of 30 pieces, priced at USD $19,550. Available to purchase now on RevolutionWatch.com.
Deployant
Maurice Lacroix extends their Aikon Chronograph line with a play of cool blue and black. Introducing the Aikon Automatic Chronograph Sprint.
SJX Watches
The GMT and tourbillon have long been a favourite combination at Greubel Forsey, but the watchmaker is bringing the combo to an end – at least in its current form – with the GMT Earth Final Edition. Greubel Forsey (GF) is closing the model’s run with a version in titanium, matched with an all-black palette, giving it a look and feel that’s sportier than the earlier GMT Earth models, which were primarily cased in precious metals. Initial thoughts GF has offered a variety of models with a GMT complication, with each having being iterated several times in small runs. But the GMT Earth has always stood out for its simplicity – compared with the model boasting twin double-axis tourbillons for instance – yet it packs in all the defining features of the brand’s travel-time watch, such as a fully-visible rotating globe that indicates day or night around the world and of course the 24-second, inclined tourbillon. That makes it ideal for someone who wants the essence of a GF travel watch in a simple (relatively speaking) package. And the GMT Earth Final Edition the coolest looking of the bunch, with a dark dial that goes well with the greyish titanium case. It’s a good look that’s gives the watch a more edgy, futuristic design, setting it apart from the typical GF. And the darker colours should leave the 45.5 mm case appearing smaller. Unlike other ultra high-end sport(y) watches, such as those from Richard Mille, GF is slightly restrained in terms of aesthetic...
SJX Watches
After the Streamliner made its debut in chronograph form last year, H. Moser & Cie. has just grown the line of luxury-sports watches to include the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. As is typical of Moser’s house style, the new perpetual calendar is streamlined in design and presentation, with the dial indicating the date and month while remaining minimalist, avoiding sub-dials entirely. The inaugural version of the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar gets a black fumè dial, giving the watch a subtle palette that’s fitting for its minimalist aesthetic. Notably, the monochromatic, shades-of-grey livery also harks back to the limited edition chronograph that was the opening model of the collection. Initial thoughts Compared to the two earlier Streamliner models – chronograph and time-only respectively – the latest is the most representative of Moser because of the ingenious movement within. A movement that made Moser’s reputation when it was resurrected in 2005, the calibre is one of the few that truly reimagines the perpetual calendar. While the Streamliner chronograph has an equally ingenious movement, the perpetual calendar movement is Moser’s own, which makes it that much more special. While appearing similar to the other versions of the Streamliner, the Perpetual Calendar differs in a few respects, which makes it stand out against its siblings in the Streamliner range, and more appealing for that reason. The design is slightly more nuanced, possessing details l...
SJX Watches
Essentially a dressed-up version of the Monsieur in black ceramic, the Monsieur Superleggera Edition takes inspiration from the J12 Superleggera, a chronograph named after the ultra-light racing cars of the mid-20th century. Like the J12, the Monsieur Superleggera has an obvious automotive theme in its design, with its time display redesigned to resemble a speedometer. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of the Monsieur de Chanel in its earlier iterations, including the original model in “beige” gold and more recent version in ceramic and marble. They were all clean, stylish, and mostly monochromatic – and equipped with a sophisticated, attractive movement. The Superleggera Edition has the same movement, but the style is the opposite. It has a techno-automotive style that tries a bit too hard for my tastes. While the texturing and scales have a clear automotive inspiration, they don’t add much to the visual appeal of the watch. Ironically, the inspiration for the new Monsieur, the J12 Superleggera of 2005, actually looks more streamlined, despite being a chronograph. Still, the Monsieur Superleggera probably like a fancy bodykit for a car – it’ll divide opinions. Anyone who finds the plainer Monsieur boring would applaud this. Superleggera Italian for “super light”, Superleggera was an Italian coachbuilder that specialised in lightweight automobile bodies comprising a tubular steel frame cover in thin, aluminium-alloy panels. Perhaps the most famous automobile w...
Deployant
Casio releases a new series - the G-SHOCK GA-2200. Four new colourways - black, black with blue, orange and turquise are released.
Revolution
All watch brands use colour on occasion - after all, there’s only so many times you can make a black, blue or white dial - but few deploy as varied a palette, and to as great an effect, as Hublot.
Quill & Pad
I’m not sure it’s possible to experience a Spike Lee film without being changed in some profound way. Lee loves writing with a pen, and Montblanc's new fountain pen in his honor is crafted in classic black resin with a sleek cap and decorated with Lee’s signature eyeglasses. Purple, the artist’s favorite color, also figures prominently.
Hodinkee
Back to the basics for this shortened week of HODINKEE Vintage, and black-dial sports watches headline the litter.
Time+Tide
I do love a good 38-40mm vintage-infused diver’s watch and, while some have come and gone from my box, they always tickle my fancy. But I also enjoy a touch of bling in my tool watches. Nothing against monochrome sharpness and the pure white print on a matte black dial, but like a watch-addicted magpie, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The HVD SpectreDiver is a cracking vintage diver for under $400 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The J12 bridges fashion and horology. To find out how, read this big black book from the maison behind the little black dress.
SJX Watches
At the opening of its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition in Geneva, Patek Philippe took the covers off a suite of watches and clocks decorated with artisanal techniques, including a new version of its ultra-fancy grand complication, the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R. First offered in blue enamel, and then black, the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002 was the most complicated wristwatch in Patek Philippe’s catalogue, until the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300 and Grand Sonnerie ref. 6301. But the Sky Moon Tourbillon remains the most ornately decorated amongst its peers, with every surface of the case – and even the hands – engraved with arabesques and the dial in cloisonné enamel. Initial thoughts Enormous at 44 mm wide and over 17 mm high, the Sky Moon Tourbillon is an expensive, complex wristwatch that looks, well, expensive and complex. It’s often a statement piece for the segment of clients who find a Richard Mille affordable but unrefined, the new rose-gold variant makes sense. The metal is the most popular for high-end watches, globally but especially in Asia. It is warmer and richer, making the watch seem even more luxe – a useful characteristic in watch like this. The rationale for the Sky Moon Tourbillon in rose gold is clear. As a watch, I am certain it will be impressive, probably even more impressive than the earlier versions of the watch due to its brighter colours. It’s too baroque – and of course unaffordable – for most, but the target demographic w...
Time+Tide
The best way to describe 2020 is that it was a black hole. Obviously there were far more serious casualties and situations, but the watch community sorely missed being able to get together and share our love for watches. Fortunately, the rising social media platform Clubhouse filled the void, but as we like to say … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Rado hosts the first brand sponsored meetup in NYC since COVID appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Suave elegance with muscle and a touch of rose gold – the Grand Seiko SBGE251 is bold at 44mm, but sits softly on even a small wrist while radiating bags of presence. As a superb alternative to a GMT-Master II, the classic combination of rose gold and black turns up the style considerably if you’re … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGE251 is a tough GMT with a luxurious twinkle of rose gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched just last year, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph is the flagship model in Audemars Piguet’s oft-discussed line of run watches. Executed well in almost every way, the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph underscores the potential of the family. But more importantly, the watch encapsulates AP’s strengths. Despite being known largely for the Royal Oak, and widely criticised for the Code 11.59 and then the Royal Oak Concept Black Panther, AP remains AP. The brand is a long-established, top-tier watchmaker that knows how to make fine watches. That is amply evident in the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph. Initial thoughts The Code 11.59 was widely panned online at launch, though the virtual mob’s rage was overdone, taking the weakness of specific models and generalising it across the entire line. The dials on the three-hander and chronograph were bland, but the other models were more appealing. But the Code is in fact an impressive collection in terms of finish and construction – though some dials still can be improved – especially the octagon-within-a-circle case that’s difficult to appreciate in photos. But the Code 11.59 has gained traction since, especially with the subsequent facelifts that combined smoked, lacquered dials and two-tone cases that immediately made the watch more attractive. At the same time, highly complicated models have joined the line up, including the open-worked tourbillon and Grande Sonnerie, which add to...
Deployant
Bell & Ross releases its new BR 03-93 GMT watch with a two-tone 24 hour bezel. Borrowing soft drink nomenclature, the red and black bezel or coke bezel, is a more vibrant variant to the earlier BR 03-93 GMT.
Time+Tide
Eschewing the pretence of diving or sports, the pure military inspiration behind the new York & Front Burrard is pretty close to being the perfect functional tool watch. It’s a daily wearer with a distinctive style that comes in any colour you want, as long as it’s black or white. Sized at 38mm for textbook … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard is an elegant take on military vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
My 8-year-old daughter has taken to wearing my G-Shock to school. The watch sits on her wrist like a rubber brick. The strap is pulled tight to the last hole, so it loops all the way around until the end sticks up like a black tongue. It’s about the coolest thing I’ve ever seen. She … ContinuedThe post Trying to get your kid into watches – without putting them off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Negroni Bear goes barefoot to the Maldives dressed in the epitome of tropical black-tie chic.
SJX Watches
Rolex has released new references of the Cosmograph Daytona with meteorite dials, in each colour of gold as well as the option of a bracelet or silicon Oysterflex strap. The versions on Oysterflex are matched with a black ceramic bezel, while the bracelet models featured gold bezels. Initial Thoughts Meteorite dials on Rolex watches are not new – the meteorite dial with Roman numerals made its debut on the Daytona almost two decades ago – and the current lineup includes features both the Day-Date and GMT-Master II with meteorite dials. The meteorite dials will be available in all three colours of gold (from left): Everose, white, and yellow gold The new arrivals are essentially a modest facelift – they share the same case, bezel, and mechanics as current gold Daytona – albeit one that is very well done. They are certainly eye-catching, especially combined with high-contrast black registers (the first-generation meteorite dials had matching meteorite registers). The new look is fairly priced. Depending on the case metal and choice of bracelet, expect to pay a premium of 10-15% over a standard gold Daytona model. Exotic dials Made of a slice of iron meteorite, the dial is first etched with acid to highlight the Widmanstätten pattern, the streaky motif created by the crystalline structure of the material, and then polished. But it still retains a slightly textured surface, unlike the perfectly smooth lacquered finished of most Daytona dials. As is conventional for...
SJX Watches
Twenty-twenty one sees Rolex revamp both its Explorer references, just in time for the 50th anniversary of the model. The new Explorer II ref. 226570 gets a new movement, while preserving the familiar style of previous model, the ref. 216570 that was launched exactly a decade ago. That means a second time zone hand in orange; fixed, brushed steel bezel; a largish, 42 mm case; and a white or black dial. While the new Explorer II is similar to its predecessor in terms of aesthetics – though the case is slimmed slightly and bracelet widened – it is powered by the cal. 3285, one of the latest-generation Rolex movement. Initial thoughts The new Explorer II is a major technical update thanks to the new movement, but in terms of look and feel, it is likely indistinguishable from its predecessor. Anyone who was a fan of the preceding model – this is a superior version of the same because the new movement is substantially better. But for those who thought the 42 mm case was too wide, it’s still 42 mm, albeit with redesigned lugs to make it slightly narrower. I find the 42 mm case a bit too big, but the version with the “polar” white dial has long been a favourite, and the new movement makes it more appealing, notwithstanding the case. For what it costs at retail the Explorer II is an excellent buy – as most Rolex watches are – though it’ll probably be tough to land one for now. Nips and tucks The Explorer II has a 42 mm case made of Oystersteel, which Rolex’s o...
Revolution
Following on from the sell-out blue and white 90th anniversary Popeye GMT, Bamford is launching the second watch in a blue and black livery in a limited edition of 100 pieces.
Time+Tide
The Iridium Torpedo arrives to offer a different take on the budget-friendly dive watch with monster specifications for minimum spending. With looks that stray closer to glamour than “tool watch”, it doesn’t shy away from being highly capable and seriously tough. The Torpedo is available with a black, blue, grey, or green dial, and the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Iridium Torpedo is a budget-friendly dive watch with monster specs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A watch that combines the famous octagonal case with an innovative movement, the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked is unquestionably the most technically interesting time-only Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oak. And then there’s this bejewelled version that’s certainly a lot more extravagant, but at the same time shows off the details and finishing of the movement better. Initial thoughts This watch is the ultimate black-tie watch – time-only and eminently classical in size at just 37 mm. In fact, it’s quite a bit smaller than the 41 mm standard model, making it a discreet fit under a cuff that will probably be secured by diamond-set cufflinks. It’s also dressed up with a glossy crocodile strap and a lot of generously sized, baguette-cut diamonds – a technically-inclined watch that takes its bling seriously. But this is not just another octagonal watch with diamonds. The movement relies on a novel technical concept for better timekeeping, but its technical merits are usually overlooked because it is installed inside a “hot” watch. And this particular version of the movement is more attractively executed here than on the standard models. Because movement here is plated in silvery rhodium – no doubt to match the dazzling whiteness of the diamonds – it’s more appealing than on the non-jewelled versions that have a dark grey ruthenium finish that’s almost black. While the finishing of the two is essentially identical, the dark finish obscures much ...
Revolution
IWC’s New Fliegerchronograph takes inspiration from the Iconic “Black Flieger” from the mid-1990’s, but upgrades the ceramic case to groundbreaking Ceratanium, and an in-house movement.
Time+Tide
H.Moser have become central to the revival of deep fumé or degradè dial finishing. Their deep colours captivate your attention like no flat black dial ever could. In this video we check out the the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red, which certainly lives up to its colourful name. This luscious … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: You’ll get lost in the spellbinding dial of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
When the Tampa Bay Buccaneers took the field on Monday morning (in Australia), February 8 against the Kansas City Chiefs in the Super Bowl, Ken Gargett pulled out a Romeo y Julieta Churchill. The poor thing was a solo stick in a lonely humidor and the foot was very ratty, torn and tattered, but otherwise it appeared in good condition. And as it was a gift, who was he to complain. But it turned out to be a stellar cigar and the perfect accompaniment to a cracking game.
Quill & Pad
The Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono with black or blue dial on rubber strap or integrated steel bracelet is a perfect amalgamation of the most successful details given the Bell & Ross treatment. For Joshua Munchow, this is a great watch that has arrived at the height of the steel sports watch party for maximum fun. And it's relatively affordable.
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