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Monochrome
Hamilton has a particularly rich history in the production of rugged tool watches. Starting with high-precision pocket watches for railroad companies in the late 19th and early 20th century, Hamilton went on to supply the U.S. Armed Forces and Navy in both World Wars with marine chronometers and robust wristwatches. With the advent of aviation, […]
Monochrome
Switzerland-based luxury conglomerate Richemont Group has just issued its trading update for the nine months ended 31 December 2023. The group, which includes brands such as Cartier, IWC, JLC and Vacheron, reports sales up by 8% at constant exchange rates and by 4% at actual exchange rates to EUR 5.6 billion for the last quarter […]
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre begins the new year with an enhanced version of one of its signature watches, the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve. While largely maintaining the design of the existing model, the new variant has a new look with a pink gold case, more cohesive styling and most notably, an upgraded movement with silicon parts and a longer power reserve. Initial thoughts Although present in the Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) catalogue for over two decades in one form or another, the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve doesn’t get as much attention as its Master collection siblings, not to mention the famed Reverso. However, given the brand’s historical status as a vertically-integrated movement maker, the new Master Power Reserve plays to the JLC’s strengths since it retains the familiar design while installing all-new mechanics in the form of the cal. 938. The update is a practical one, since the new calibre has a longer power reserve of three days. However, the update is not an accessible one from a price perspective, since this enhancement is currently exclusive to this boutique-only pink gold version and has not been extended to the steel model. The update will almost certainly make its way into the more affordable model some time in the future, so it’s a matter of waiting. JLC was historically known for its value-oriented pricing, an edge that has been dulled somewhat in recent years as its prices have crept upwards. This watch illustrates that, even if it is still priced ...
Worn & Wound
Delma is celebrating its Centennial Anniversary in 2024. Family owned and operated in Lengnau, Switzerland, Delma watches has been in continuous production since its inception in 1924. To mark this tremendous milestone, they have created something quite special. Introducing the Delma 1924 Tourbillon. Yes, you read that correctly, a Tourbillon, limited to just 100 pieces. Historically, the Tourbillon complication has been reserved for ultra high-end watch brands to flex their horological muscles, while at the same time commanding equally high prices. In recent years, however, brands like Tag Heuer and Horage have brought these prices down to the realm of relative affordability. Delma wanted to do the same, while also making sure the movement was 100% Swiss. What is the big deal with Tourbillons? Simply put, the Tourbillon places the escapement and regulator within a rotating cage that revolves 360 degrees in 60 seconds, effectively negating any positional errors. Tourbillon calibers have a reputation for being rather delicate, and are often fitted to dress watches in precious metals. With the help of their Swiss supply partners, Delma has gone the extra mile to ensure these watches are shock resistant to 5000g and antimagnetic to 2000 gauss. This sporty 41mm hand wound watch is made of 316L stainless steel and is nearly completely brushed, except for the beveled edges lining the top of the case. There is a display back, to admire the movement and it is fitted to a matchin...
Worn & Wound
Welcome to the latest Chronicle! Here at the Windup Watch Shop, we know as well as anyone that time-telling doesn’t stop with wristwatches, and today’s piece is part of a larger series covering clocks and other non-watch timing instruments. Somewhat overlooked and underappreciated, wall clocks are far more than simple background pieces; they are functional decor with the ability to tie a space together while adding a touch of personalization. Today’s spotlight is on a special Seiko that is at once familiar and refreshing. Get your command hooks and hammer and nails ready, and let’s take a closer look. Welcome to the latest Chronicle! Here at the Windup Watch Shop, we know as well as anyone that time-telling doesn’t stop with wristwatches, and today’s piece is part of a larger series covering clocks and other non-watch timing instruments. Somewhat overlooked and underappreciated, wall clocks are far more than simple background pieces; they are functional decor with the ability to tie a space together while adding a touch of personalization. Today’s spotlight is on a special Seiko that is at once familiar and refreshing. Get your command hooks and hammer and nails ready, and let’s take a closer look. The post Special Clock Highlight: Seiko Watch Dial Wall Clock appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Oris gives its signature model a subtle makeover with the Big Crown Father Time Limited Edition, a collaboration with Marylebone Cricket Club (MCC). This release commemorates the pair’s three-year collaboration that began in 2022 and combines a 40 mm bronze case with a creamy white dial. Initial thoughts The Big Crown Father Time is best described as a cricket-themed variation of the bronze Big Crown Pointer Date. The cricket element, however, is subtle and practically absent from the dial, which is not a bad thing since it gives the watch the widest possible appeal. Setting aside the cricket theme, the contrast between the dial elements and the dial itself is appealing. The watch stands out in terms of legibility due to this contrast. The cathedral hands and extra-large crown add a nice touch that evoke vintage Oris models. And though I’m typically a fan of fluted bezels, this one works well. This is equipped with a Sellita SW 200-1 instead of an in-house movement. However, with a retail price of US$3,100, it is still acceptable value. “Father Time” Sitting on top of the clock tower, Father Time is the weathervane at Lord’s Cricket Ground and was gifted to MCC in 1926 by architect Sir Herbert Baker. Because Lord’s is the “Home of Cricket”, and the MCC once the sport’s governing body, Father Time is one of the globally recognised symbols of the sport. The Big Crown Pointer Date, on the other hand, is synonymous with Oris. Introduced in 1938 as a pilot’...
Monochrome
It’s proving to be a bumper crop year for dragon-themed watches, and brands from all walks of life are deploying their creativity to create something inspiring for the upcoming Year of the Dragon. While it’s only natural to associate Roger Dubuis‘ Excalibur collection with the wonderfully over-the-top Arthurian-inspired Knights of the Round Table editions, it […]
Worn & Wound
The 1960s stands out as one of the most influential decades in shaping modern design and culture. Two decades into post-War America, the ’60s embodied hope, opportunity, and expansion. This transformative era not only aimed for the moon but also ushered in a jet-setting culture that offered a fresh, futuristic perspective on classic mid-century design. Drawing inspiration from this dynamic period, the Marlin Jet, the latest addition to the Marlin line, encapsulates the essence of the ’60s. True to the Marlin lineage, the Jet seamlessly blends contemporary and retro design elements into a versatile daily-wear timepiece. With a modest 38mm size, this watch effortlessly transitions from day to evening, fitting under a suit jacket or hoodie without losing its sense of style. Beyond its brushed 38mm stainless steel case, the Marlin Jet’s allure lies in the domed Hesalite crystal, a defining feature that adds a new dimension to Timex’s retro-futuristic vision. This crystal spans the entire top surface, smoothly integrating into the flat case sides and leaving only the lugs exposed. The transition from the case sides to the case back mirrors the crystal’s dome, creating a coherent case profile and adding significantly to an aesthetic that is reminiscent of what “futuristic” looked like in the Jet Age. Additional design highlights include the silver-white concave dial, featuring a crosshair pattern and a 24-hour format sub-dial beside the 9 o’clock marker, bringing...
SJX Watches
Originally presented in 2012 to that Year of the Dragon – and reputedly priced at over US$3 million at the time – the Parmigiani Le Dragon et la Perle du Savoir has been restored just in time for this Year of the Dragon that soon begins in February 2024. Now renamed Tempus Fugit, the automaton made up of a dragon chasing a flaming pearl, a traditional motif in Chinese culture. Initial thoughts This exemplifies Parmigiani’s mastery of ultra-high-end automatons and clocks that were a key part of its offerings in the 1990s. During that period, only Parmigiani and Gerald Genta specialised in such extraordinary creations. Although this was produced in 2012, it certainly evokes the sculptural automaton clocks of that earlier period. Such extravagant automatons clocks are rare today – only Van Cleef & Arpels regularly creates such one-offs now – but are undeniably impressive. Like its peers, the dragon automaton combines goldsmithing, gem-setting, automata construction, and of course clockmaking, all techniques mastered by Parmigiani thanks to its restoration department, which was historically the best in Switzerland. Naturally, the brand’s affordable and relatively more ordinary wristwatch offerings don’t possess the same extravagant craft, but it is good to know the scope of the brand’s capabilities. The dragon chasing a pearl A familiar motif in Chinese folklore, the dragon chasing a flaming pearl represents the pursuit of wisdom, prosperity, or power. Here it ...
Monochrome
Delma has rightfully earned its recent reputation for producing highly capable, functional, and accessible dive watches. However, the brand’s history, tracing back to its establishment in 1924 by brothers Adolf and Albert Gilomen as A. & A. Gilomen S.A. in Lengnau and currently operating from the same Swiss town, reveals a broader range of offerings […]
Quill & Pad
The Schwarz-Etienne Roma Synergy by Kari Voutilainen for Oster Jewelers. has a design as sharp as the name is exhausting. Two variations - both steel - exist in the form of eight 39mm examples and eight in 42mm.
Worn & Wound
I always look forward to checking out a new release from Direnzo. There’s always more than meets the eye, and the DRZ06 Wandering Star is no exception. The watch is a marriage of the familiar and the unexpected. In this case, the ‘familiar’ is an evolution of Direnzo’s retro-futuristic design language, including a dish-shaped dial, bold colors, and organic-feeling markers cut into a sandwich dial. The ‘unexpected’ is the presence of a mystery dial. It’s now some years since I wrote about the originals and heyday of the Mystery Dial here, but it’s still a feature I’d like to see more of. I guess many watchmakers might be deterred from attempting this as it’s difficult to avoid the mystery being the interesting thing about a watch and therefore becoming little more than a gimmick. Perhaps the reason it has been implemented successfully as part of the DRZ06 Wandering Star is that we just have a mystery sub-dial for the running seconds, with a lone red dot slowly spinning around against the lumed backdrop. Last summer I spent some time with Direnzo’s previous release – a reworking of one of their earliest models. The case of the new DRZ06 is similar in shape to that of the DRZ02 Aerolite, but with some subtle changes that blend to give a different character. For starters, the brushed steel bezel is larger in every way. Despite the main watch case being a soft square shape, this strong bezel makes the watch feel far rounder. The Wandering Star still pull...
Worn & Wound
Many in the watch community are predicting that 2024 will be year where we see a wider adoption of avant-garde and modern design as the pendulum continues to swing away from vintage inspired classicism. This is a good thing, and worth celebrating. But there will always be a market for elegant, classic designs. The kind that have been nailed down and perfect for decades, and define the “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” mentality. There isn’t a brand out there that is more in tune with this style of watchmaking than Jaeger-LeCoultre. Similar to Rolex, they iterate slowly, and don’t adhere to the (false) notion that buzzy new releases are required as part of an industry cycle. They just kind of do their thing, and it almost always results in a beautiful object. Their latest, the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, is familiar in many ways but has several small changes that make it even more refined. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra thin watches are a niche of a niche unto themselves. For years, even before the current Thinness Wars really took shape, JLC has been adept at getting the best possible performance from impossibly thin movements, and taking advantage of their diminutive dimensions by housing them in exceedingly well designed watches that take full advantage of their size. For the new Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, JLC’s Caliber 938 has been reworked slightly to increase the total power reserve to a healthy 70 hours without drastically changing the movement...
Worn & Wound
Behrens 2012 is one of the most exciting young brands working in the ever growing affordable avant-garde space. Based in China, Behrens has developed a cult following as of late, riding primarily on the strength of the impressive “Ultralight,” a futuristic design that is typical of their house aesthetic, weighing in just 20 grams. Given the Ultralight’s impressive specs and unique design, the $7,600 price tag feels almost like a bargain, but a look through the Behrens catalog reveals that they have a number of gems at prices that are truly affordable. Their latest watch, the Orion One Automatic, is a little more approachable in terms of price point, but is perhaps the brand’s most outlandish design yet. It’s yet another example of a watchmaking aesthetic that was previously reserved for six figure timepieces working its way down into the affordable segment. The case of the Orion One recalls something between a spaceship and what you’d see under the hood of a modern supercar. It’s the kind of thing that barely resembles a watch, at first, but reveals its form and complexity as you observe it. The first thing you notice is likely the array of gears under the sapphire crystal window at the top of the case, where you’d normally find a dial. Here, the only time telling function is a running seconds hand at the center. Time is read through a “twin roller” time display system at the 6:00 position. It’s fairly intuitive, but in a position that you’re li...
Monochrome
In 2012, Blancpain introduced the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar, an extremely complex watch fusing the Chinese and Gregorian calendars, complete with a moon phase complication that coincided with the Year of the Dragon. Twelve years have passed, and the dragon is back in the limelight again. To mark this twelve-year cycle, Blancpain’s latest interpretation of […]
SJX Watches
Twenty twenty-one was an important year for Grand Seiko as it saw the introduction of the brand’s latest-generation mechanical movement, the cal. 9SA5. A modern movement with attractive aesthetic and proprietary escapement, the cal. 9SA5 debuted in the Heritage “White Birch” SLGH005. But Grand Seiko didn’t stop there. Building upon the flagship calibre, Grand Seiko created the cal. 9SC5 and launched the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. A large, sporty watch but entirely in lightweight titanium, the Tentagraph is a milestone for Grand Seiko (GS) as the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph. “Tentagraph” is self-explanatory, an acronym outlining the key features of the watch and cal. 9SC5 within: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph has all the tactile features expected in a modern, high-spec sports chronograph, namely substantial proportions and crisp, smooth pusher action. As expected for GS, it boasts high quality finishing inside and out, with the case in particular having category-leading finishing and detailing. And from a technical perspective, it is notable for being the high-frequency chronograph with the longest power reserve on the market – the balance runs at 36,000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz, and the power reserve is 72 hours, or three days. Aesthetically, the Tentagraph is refreshingly modern. It retains the characteristic GS design, but tweaked to accentuate the sport...
Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre‘s Master Thin collection is home to sophisticated, understated, ultra-thin dress watches ranging from time-and-date to moon phase models and more complex proposals like tourbillons and perpetual calendars. Offered with understated beige or sunray decorated dials, JLC introduced métiers d’art dials to the collection at the end of 2018. First appearing on the Master Ultra […]
Monochrome
The new year has only just started, but we already have a piece of advice for you: if you’re hunting for new watches, which I guess most of you probably are, explore the industry a little. There is plenty of very interesting and cool stuff to be found off the beaten path, and it doesn’t […]
Deployant
Bell & Ross is a watch brand that is known for its aviation-inspired timepieces and the iconic square dash gauge case design. The latest addition to their collection is the BR 05 Artline Dragon, a limited edition model that features a dragon motif on the dial and the case. The dragon is a symbol of power, wisdom and luck in many cultures, and it is also a tribute to the Chinese New Year of the Dragon in 2024.
Quill & Pad
Quentin R. Bufogle could go on and on about the Zenith Chronomaster Tribute to Charles Vermot’s stunningly beautiful, metallic blue dial, silicon escapement (visible via the open heart feature), COSC chronometer certification and that it’s one of the last truly great Chronomasters, but that would be missing the point, i.e. how Charles Vermot saved Zenith.
Quill & Pad
In the annals of A. Lange & Söhne history, the Double Split was one of the most widely celebrated releases. It introduced the idea of a split-second and split-minute chronograph allowing the wearer to time at least two events lasting up to an hour. The Triple Split is the inevitable progression of it, adding a split-hour function to allow timing two multi-hour events up to 12 hours.
Worn & Wound
It was early summer in 2020 and it felt like the entire world was on fire. The Coronavirus was running rampant, and the Quebec Government had instituted draconian lockdown measures, which included a nightly curfew. If residents were not in their homes by 8pm, fines were issued. It was a horrible time. My wife and I had no choice but to work from home, and both of my boys were attempting homeschooling for the first time. My oldest was in his second year of college and my youngest was in his last year of high school. We all struggled with this new way of doing things. On the bright side however, all this togetherness allowed me to introduce my kids to some of my beloved film franchises. We went through all the Die Hards, Lethal Weapons, Beverly Hills Cops and Aliens. The latter really stuck with them and my oldest found a video game called Alien Isolation, which he insisted we try. So, we did. Coincidentally Monta had sent me an OnceanKing to review and to this day, in my brain, this watch is linked to the Alien franchise and the great time I had with my boys kicking Alien posterior! I really, really liked the Monta OceanKing version II, nevertheless it was not without its flaws. Some of which have been addressed with the new version III which I’ve been lent for review. So, let’s dive in and see what they have done. The dimensions have remained very similar, with a diameter of 40.5mm (down from 40.7mm), a thickness of 12mm (same as the previous model) and a lug-to-lug le...
Monochrome
Approaching a hands-on article about a watch can take various angles, and one exciting perspective is to envision how a newcomer to the watch scene might react to a timepiece and what questions might arise during their exploration of the product. Let’s explore this approach as we delve into the mighty IWC Big Pilot’s Watch […]
Worn & Wound
Since its release in 2005, the Master Collection has enjoyed pride-of-place in Longines’ line of watches. With its mix of contemporary appeal and timeless charm, the Master Collection remains a reliable favorite for those looking to enjoy this Swiss watch brand. And now, Longines has expanded the Master series with two solid gold versions featuring a GMT complication in the aptly named Master Collection GMT. Admirers of the brand can now enjoy the option of either an 18-carat yellow or 18-carat rose gold. With these two new references, Longines is showing us the versatility of these classic silhouettes, allowing a wearer to dress this watch up – or down – to better fit one’s lifestyle. Sitting at 40mm, this case will give any wrist some presence while the frosted silver dial softens the overall appearance. It’s the small details of this dial, in fact, which really show the attention that Longines has put into the Master Collection. This includes a 24-hour scale in Arabic numerals on the rim, cleverly reversed at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock for convenient second time zone reading. A railroad minute track separates these Arabic numerals from the Roman numerals of the applied gold hour markers. Adding functionality, a discreet date aperture is placed at 6 o’clock. Elegant gold hands mark the hours, minutes, and seconds, while the GMT hand, accentuated in black, aligns with the 24-hour scale numerals for enhanced readability of the second time zone. Both new re...
SJX Watches
After implementing the all-black aesthetic only in limited editions, Seiko has revived the Prospex Black Series but now as part of the standard catalogue. Based on familiar models from the current lineup – the Prospex Sea “Turtle” diver (SRPK43) and the Prospex Speedtimer solar-powered chronograph (SSC923). Whilst the monochromatic black-on-black palette is a favourite for sports watches, the standout feature of the new pair is the green luminous paint on the hands and indices that has a retro feel, being reminiscent of the luminous radium applied to watch dials for most of the 20th century. Initial thoughts It’s gratifying to know the once limited Black Series is now accessible as part of the regular product line, since it’s an appealing, affordable sports watch. Admittedly this will be disappointing to some owners of past models that were limited editions, but it is not surprising considering the success of the earlier versions from 2017 and 2020. As for the watches themselves, the green Lumibrite on the hands and markers is the key differentiating factor, with the rest of each watch having the same design and dimensions as their standard steel equivalents. A useful extra would have been additional strap or bracelet options for a wider range of looks, particularly since all-black watches are now often paired with high-contrast straps. The Speedtimer is priced at US$700, while the Turtle retails for US$725. Each cost slightly more than the standard steel vers...
Time+Tide
A watch to the rescue of an overboard fisherman with no life jacket and a shark in the midst.The post Watch crystal reflection saves man after 23 hours lost at sea appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
And we thought it could only travel to the Moon. Our watch-related movie of the week, a brand new film on Netflix, says otherwise.
Hodinkee
This is one of the most compelling Speedies in recent history and a watch that flat-out makes me smile.
Hodinkee
Omega wanted to make something special for the 60th Anniversary of its iconic chronograph, and indeed it has.
Hodinkee
This year is the 60th anniversary of the Speedmaster, and you can bet we're going to be talking about it from now until December 31. There's no way Omega lets this one slip by without some serious fanfare and some awesome watches. Hot on the heels of its latest release, the limited edition Speedmaster "Speedy Tuesday," Omega has decided to announce another Speedmaster, this time in the automatic range. Meet the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Automatic Master Chronometer.
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