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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch SJX Watches
Richard Mille Jun 29, 2023

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch

Continuing from the unique piece made for the previous edition of Only Watch, TAG Heuer again experiments with its racing model for the upcoming charity auction. The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch is the brand’s first-ever mechanical split-seconds chronograph, and channels strong avant-garde styling. Initial thoughts Finally adding a mechanical split second chronograph to the brand’s capabilities is a significant step for a TAG Heuer, who stand on their history of producing sporting chronographs. In contrast to the Monaco Carbon from 2021, the watch exhibits a significantly bolder aesthetic, aligning more closely with what one would expect from Richard Mille. However, unlike its counterpart, TAG Heuer’s approach to skeletonisation is tastefully restrained, focusing on a minimalist display rather than an overtly flashy appearance. One potential drawback of this release is the auction estimate, which ranges from CHF150,000 to CHF300,000. The inclusion of the new calibre and the utilisation of premium materials can justify the higher price. However, it is worth noting that the price point is consistent with what last year’s model achieved, which was CHF290,000, despite only having an estimate of between CHF50,000 to CHF100,000.  The winning bidder of this watch will also get a VIP experience of the Monaco Grand Prix next year, with access to the TAG Heuer hospitality suite, among other experiences over the weekend.  Avant-garde design Expertly mergi...

Barbier-Mueller Returns with the Mosaïque II SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain movement – Jun 29, 2023

Barbier-Mueller Returns with the Mosaïque II

In 2017, the original Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque made its first public appearance at Only Watch. The collaborative efforts of longtime friends Stéphane Barbier-Mueller and François-Paul Journe, one being the preeminent independent watchmaker and the other a member of one of a Swiss real estate dynasty, this was an unexpected and rather pleasant surprise. Now, the pair have returned with the Mosaïque II, follow up to their initial offering, sticking to the same principles as before, but with the eye of watch designer Eric Giroud.  Initial thoughts Those who are fans of the original will be pleased to see all of the main traits have been carried over to this latest version. The stone work on the dial, case and hinged caseback is all there, and the two hander runs on the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain movement – in fact, it is essentially an elaborately inlaid Chronomètre Souverain. If anything, they have elevated their previous efforts by incorporating more types of semi-precious stones in order to execute Mr. Giroud’s design. While Mr Giroud’s eye has given the Mosaïque II a different feel from its predecessor, the new watch still reflects Mr Barbier-Mueller’s interest in arts and culture, which was the basis for the original Mosaïque. Besides being a shareholder in F.P. Journe, Mr Barbier-Mueller is also a member of the family that established the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva that’s famous for its world-class collection of tribal art. The original M...

F.P. Journe Introduces the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2023” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces Jun 29, 2023

F.P. Journe Introduces the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2023”

The Chronomètre Bleu has taken on somewhat of a cult status among the followers of F.P. Journe. So much so that it has leaked out beyond the brand’s group of core supporters to become one of the most sought after watches on the primary and secondary market today. This year, for Only Watch, F.P. Journe has decided to revisit this popular design and reimagine it as the Chronomètre Bleu Furtif Bleu, which is also a debut for an entirely new calibre.  Initial thoughts While the Chronomètre Bleu is known for being popular among the wider watch community, F.P. Journe’s LineSport models still divide opinion, so combining the sport watch case with the eye-catching dial of the Chronomètre Bleu is a bold choice. Of course, as with everything that F.P. Journe does it is never completely straight forward, the dial on the Furtif Bleu is not a copy of what you see in the Chronomètre Bleu, instead it is translucent enamel with the numbers laser engraved for a matte finish. The one fault I can see with the design of these numerals is the oddly small “6” so as to accommodate “émail”. This feels like it throws the balance off ever so slightly.  The aim of this watch appears to be to make it hard to read, with the very name of it making reference to it being difficult to read unless the dial is directly facing you. While the romantic view of this being that it makes telling time an entirely personal activity, it could also just lead to difficulty whenever in low light set...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jun 29, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch”

Audemars Piguet (AP) is taking part in Only Watch for the fourth time with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 41 mm “Only Watch”. In contrast to the low-key Royal Oak “Jumbo” made for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction, this year’s one-off creation is exceptionally striking in blue and white. The latest Royal Oak “Only Watch” is based on the regular-production Royal Oak skeleton tourbillon but made unique with a white ceramic case and bracelet along with a movement featuring blued titanium bridges and plates. The case and bracelet material is notably uncommon for AP. While the brand has a fair number of Royal Oak models in black ceramic, there are fewer in white ceramic. In fact, there is only one regular production model in white ceramic, the perpetual calendar. In the past, there were also a handful of Royal Oak Offshore models in white ceramic, including a chronograph and Diver. According to AP, one of the notable features of the bracelet is not only the material, but also that fact that is secured with “invisible pins”. This presumably means the pins holding the bracelet together are concealed with ceramic caps. The cal. 2972 inside is open worked in an angular, stylised manner that is very much AP’s house style. The bridges and base plate are blued titanium, while the bevels of the movement retain the natural grey colour of titanium for contrast, giving each of the bridges a pronounced outline. The rotor is 22k gold but ...

Tudor Introduces the Prince Chronograph One Prototype for Only Watch 2023 SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jun 29, 2023

Tudor Introduces the Prince Chronograph One Prototype for Only Watch 2023

Foreshadowing a return of the famous “Big Block” chronograph from 1976, Tudor has unveiled the Prince Chronograph One for Only Watch 2023. Featuring a striking 18k yellow gold case and matching bracelet, the Prince Chronograph One debuts Tudor’s first-ever in-house chronograph movement, the MT59XX – making it the first and only Tudor watch sold publicly to contain a yet-to-be-released prototype movement. Initial thoughts The Prince Chronograph One is an interesting debut for Tudor in many ways. Not only is it an attractive and well-conceived watch in its own right, it’s likely a sign of things to come, particularly with regards to the all-new in-house movement. Tudor’s prior Only Watch entries features unusual materials such as ceramic, bronze, and patinated steel; the Prince Chronograph One continues this trend. Tudor doesn’t often make watches in precious metals – the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18k is an exception – leaving that lane open for its sibling Rolex. The 42 mm case and bracelet of this unique piece are crafted from 18k yellow gold, and the screw-down crown and pushers are particularly faithful to those of the original “Big Block” and its sibling, the Rolex Daytona 6263. And it shows remarkable attention to detail that Tudor opted to produce its adjustable T-Fit clasp in 18k yellow gold for this one-off piece. The pairing of a yellow gold case with a black dial and bezel is also timely given the surging interest in the Rolex Daytona “Paul Ne...

Rexhep Rexhepi Introduces the Chronomètre Antimagnétique SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Jun 29, 2023

Rexhep Rexhepi Introduces the Chronomètre Antimagnétique

One of the most anticipated creations by an independent watchmaker at Only Watch 2023 is the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique. Almost certainly amongst the most valuable watches in the sale, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is a time-only wristwatch in stainless steel containing a Faraday cage to protect the against magnetism. It is the third timepiece created by Rexhep Rexhepi, founder of Akrivia, for the biennial charity auction. Though the specifics of the watch remain under wraps, a few facts have been revealed in the announcement. The dial will be “sector” or “scientific” style, while the case is stainless steel and made by the workshop of Jean-Pierre Hagmann. Classically proportioned in the typical Rexhep Rexhepi style, the case measures 38 mm by 9.95 mm. Interestingly, the case features a double back comprised of an inner sapphire back and an outer back that can be unscrewed by the wearer. And most importantly, the movement is a new construction. While the Chronomètre Contemporain I and Chronomètre Contemporain II that Rexhep Rexhepi created for past instalments of Only Watch were variants of standard models, the RRCA is equipped with a calibre developed from the ground up for the model. The RRCCII calibre inside the timepiece made for Only Watch 2021 While I can’t say any more about the watch, I can state that the RRCA deftly combines historical inspiration drawn from the magnetism-resistant watches made by the great watchmakers of Gen...

Tudor Reveals Set of New FXD Watches For Alinghi Red Bull Racing Worn & Wound
Tudor Reveals Set Jun 29, 2023

Tudor Reveals Set of New FXD Watches For Alinghi Red Bull Racing

In a surprise move this week Tudor has revealed a pair of new FXD watches in honor of their partnership with the two time America’s Cup winning Alinghi Red Bull Racing team. To date, we’ve made due with the single FXD reference which was released in late 2020, and it’s a platform we’ve been thoroughly impressed with for reasons you can read about in our in-depth review right here. Today, the FXD gets a pair of stablemates in the form of the Pelagos FXD and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition”, which introduce a new material to the mix, along with, for the first time ever for the collection, complications.  The Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition FXD watches continue to make use of the defining feature eluded to in the FXD name, which is a fixed lug bar design, meaning passthrough straps only. Tudor have made a new hook and loop, or “self-gripping fastening system”-equipped Julien Faure strap in blue and red for these new references in a nod to the red accents found in the racing team’s colors. Along the same lines, the bezel of each of these FXD watches has been rendered in matte black. The time-only reference is of course familiar, sharing the same dimensions as the original FXD with a trim 42mm case that wears quite flat. The black bezel is a handsome addition to the matte blue dial, which gains red accents in the seconds hand, as well as the Pelagos label at the bottom of the dial, similar to what we see in the Pelagos 39. This watch uses ...

I checked out the quirky Mancheront Pacer and its unique features Time+Tide
Jun 29, 2023

I checked out the quirky Mancheront Pacer and its unique features

With more and more microbrands on the rise, the idea of creating your own brand is something that’s become easier to stomach, whether through a melange of ready-made parts or a single factory custom-making an entire design. The path that Dilon Wong, the founder of Mancheront, took to get there, was pretty much the polar … ContinuedThe post I checked out the quirky Mancheront Pacer and its unique features appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How Zodiac started the funky colour trend Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Jun 28, 2023

How Zodiac started the funky colour trend

The deeper history of dive watches will always be murky, especially on the topic of first-time achievements when simultaneous development had countless brands competing. When it comes to trend-setting however, there are some pretty obvious titans which spread their influence. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner were both released in 1953, cementing a significant … ContinuedThe post How Zodiac started the funky colour trend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] The Time & The Case For Strange Watches Worn & Wound
Jun 27, 2023

[VIDEO] The Time & The Case For Strange Watches

We review a lot of watches around here, and oftentimes that means judging them by their practical merits. These are practical tools at their base, afterall, but they can (and should) be more than that, especially these days when we all have quick access to the time on a myriad of devices surrounding us. In fact, if it weren’t for something we find compelling beyond the practical considerations, it’d be awfully hard for any of us to justify our presence here. In this video, we’re taking a look within our own collections at the watches which take a different approach. You could call them 4th watches, weird watches, or simply unique watches, but most importantly, they are watches that bring something a little different to the table. The spaces outside of the well understood genres and established design codes are the realm of the slightly odd, weird, or strange watch. Sometimes it’s a particularly creative solution to a problem, such as the crown lock mechanism of the PloProf, and sometimes it’s more abstract, such as the Fordite dial of the Arcanaut ARC II. Watches of this ilk are testing ideas, and how those ideas evolve or take hold in a broad sense has yet to be determined. The success of these watches is not predicated upon widespread adoption, of course, but rather, in their ability to captivate and provide a more engaging on-wrist experience. When it comes down to it, even if we’re drawn to something like the simple, tool-ish nature of military watches, the...

Omega Celebrates 75 Years of the Seamaster with the New “Summer Blue” Collection Worn & Wound
Omega Celebrates 75 Years Jun 27, 2023

Omega Celebrates 75 Years of the Seamaster with the New “Summer Blue” Collection

The Seamaster turns 75 this year, and if you thought Omega was going to let the anniversary pass without a major celebratory release, well, needless to say you’d be sorely mistaken. Today, the brand unveiled an 11 watch collection, covering the expanse of the Seamaster range to pay tribute to all aspects of what many would argue is a brand within a brand. More than anything, the new suite of Seamasters is a reminder of the diversity of watches made with the “Seamaster” name on the dial. Even more than the Speedmaster, the Seamaster collection represents the core of what Omega is as a brand today, a fully integrated manufacture that makes tech forward, accessible, heirloom quality watches for every possible scenario.  Omega has developed a remarkably coherent conceit behind this release, which they are subtitling “Precision at Every Level,” a reference to the brand’s high spec METAS certified movements and the range of depths Seamaster watches are certified to. The idea here is that Omega is using a shade of “Summer Blue” on each dial, but in lighter or darker gradients depending on the depth rating of the watch. The Aqua Terra, rated to 150 meters, has a dial that appears light blue with a subtle gradient effect, but once you get down to the depths of the Ploprof and Ultra Deep, the dials get darker with a more pronounced gradient. The blue used here is distinct from other shades of blue used throughout the Omega catalog, so these watches should be immedia...

Omega celebrates 75 years of the Seamaster with 11 new “Summer Blue” models across the collection (Live Video & Pics!) Time+Tide
Omega celebrates 75 years Jun 27, 2023

Omega celebrates 75 years of the Seamaster with 11 new “Summer Blue” models across the collection (Live Video & Pics!)

A gradient of 11 new “Summer Blue” configurations for the 75th anniversary of the Seamaster that darken as the depth rating increases Each model has a commemorative caseback with the signature Poseidon, trident, and two seahorses motif The previously discontinued Ploprof returns to the catalogue with a new resized monobloc case There are countless brands … ContinuedThe post Omega celebrates 75 years of the Seamaster with 11 new “Summer Blue” models across the collection (Live Video & Pics!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Andersen Genève Introduces the Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition SJX Watches
Jun 27, 2023

Andersen Genève Introduces the Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition

The Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition adds another shade to the Andersen Genève collection that places dial-work above all else with its expensive, hand-made guilloché dial. Having initially been released to mark the brand’s 40th anniversary back in 2020 with a blue gold dial, the new jumping hours retains same dial but instead does it in pink gold. It celebrates the independent brand’s long-standing relationship with its Japanese clients, being created to celebrate this deep bond. Initial thoughts It is only possible to start and finish discussing this model by talking about the dial. It has more of a dominating presence than you will find on most other watches simply because there is so much dial. Originally done in blue gold, the dial is now in a “salmon” shade might seem a little old hat to many as it has been tagged as a trendy colour for several years now. Though the dial colour feels a little passé since it has been done so often, the dial is still impressively executed in terms of quality. The link between the dial colour and Japan is less obvious. The company’s chief executive, Pierre-Alexandre Aeschlimann, told us the brand did not consult with anyone in Japan about this design of the jumping hours. Still, Japanese collectors have long been trendsetters with a love for independent watchmaking, particularly in the 1980s and 1990s, so it comes as no surprise that Andersen Genève continues to see them as a valuable market. During that period, Andersen G...

RECOMMENDED VIEWING: Watchfinder & Co’s Andrew Morgan tells the story of the collector-made Lyrique watch Time+Tide
Jun 26, 2023

RECOMMENDED VIEWING: Watchfinder & Co’s Andrew Morgan tells the story of the collector-made Lyrique watch

With each new release of a watch, for every person that comments they are ready to swipe their credit card, there are three more criticising everything they think is wrong with the watch. In a world where more people are consuming watch media and buying watches, many consider themselves connoisseurs of watch design. With prices … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED VIEWING: Watchfinder & Co’s Andrew Morgan tells the story of the collector-made Lyrique watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Habring2 Introduces the Chrono-Felix Top-Second SJX Watches
Zenith Jun 26, 2023

Habring2 Introduces the Chrono-Felix Top-Second

Habring² continues its focus on affordable, interesting complications with the Chrono-Felix Top-Second. Dressed in a retro-military dial, the Top-Second is powered by the brand’s proprietary A11 movement like all Habring² watches. But it features a new (old) complication, the “Top Second”, essentially a running seconds indicator camouflaged within the “9” hour marker. Initial thoughts The Top-Second encapsulates the Habring² specialty of well-priced and interesting watches. It’s a chronograph with a complication that is the only one of its kind in modern-day watchmaking and priced under US$9,000 including 20% Austrian tax. That makes it excellent value – as is typical of Habring² – particularly considering the proprietary movement. Granted, the 1930s-military styling of the watch is fairly generic, though appealing in its functional nature. That said, Habring² is versatile when it comes to design and the brand typically unveils variations of its models so it is likely the Top-Second will return in other guises soon. Honest, affordable, and interesting First introduced in the 1960s by Mondia, a brand soon after acquired by Zenith, the Top Second is a discreet running seconds indicator. A coloured disc spins beneath a small aperture on the dial, showing that the seconds are passing and the movement is running without the need for a constant seconds hand. The Habring² take on the complication operates on the same principles as the Mondia original. A prop...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Nezumi Voiture is a milestone chronograph model for the Swedish brand Time+Tide
Jun 26, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Nezumi Voiture is a milestone chronograph model for the Swedish brand

There is a crucial moment in the existence of an independent brand when it adds mechanical movements to their core collections. This change seems to be as important as removing the training wheels from a kid’s bicycle, or getting that first job after college. This is important because mechanical movements are trickier to use and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Nezumi Voiture is a milestone chronograph model for the Swedish brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Ace x Elka Watch Company Diversity series Time+Tide
Brew Jun 25, 2023

The Ace x Elka Watch Company Diversity series

Ace Jewelers and Elka Watch Company have teamed up to celebrate Amsterdam’s diversity. Both companies have links to the historical Dutch brand Elka. It’s available with dials in Western Arabic, Eastern Arabic, Chinese or Hebrew. Collaborations between watch brands and dealers have historically been as simple as printing a name on a dial, and sometimes … ContinuedThe post The Ace x Elka Watch Company Diversity series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Peak Design and Nomad Link Up, Gear Patrol’s New Acquisition, & a Fun Star-Studded Cast Headline Craig Gillespie’s Upcoming Film, Dumb Money Worn & Wound
Jun 24, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Peak Design and Nomad Link Up, Gear Patrol’s New Acquisition, & a Fun Star-Studded Cast Headline Craig Gillespie’s Upcoming Film, Dumb Money

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Peak Design x Nomad The New Peak Design x Nomad Collaboration Is Their Toughest Mobile Accessory Yet Via Peak Design x Nomad Peak Design is no stranger to our weekly WSG column. You’d be hard pressed to find another camera bag and accessory brand that can offer a product that’s better designed in terms of seamless functionality and aesthetics. It turns out that PD also offers an entire catalog of mobile accessories not limited to cases, mounts and an array of attachments to turn your phone into an all-in-one creative hub. Via Peak Design x Nomad With their latest collaboration with Nomad, a brand known for making sleek mobile cases that don’t lack in the toughness department, Peak Design is offering an attractive option for someone in the market for an iPhone 14 Pro and iPhone 14 Pro Max. The entire frame is constructed out of a resilient and lightweight polycarbonate material fortified with TPU bumpers that give the entire case 15 feet of drop protection. The main feature however is that the case features PD’s proprietary SlimLink system that allows the l...

I think I have hit a wall in my watch-collecting journey… Time+Tide
Jun 24, 2023

I think I have hit a wall in my watch-collecting journey…

Not to force a pun here, but I really am at a crossroads in my collecting journey. I don’t wanna sound too braggadocious, but ultimately my collection is in a really good place. A lot of the watches I’ve set my sights on I now have in my collection. I was able to trade trade … ContinuedThe post I think I have hit a wall in my watch-collecting journey… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Alpina Releases a Surprising Limited Edition for a Big Anniversary in the Heritage Carrée Mechanical Worn & Wound
Alpina Releases Jun 23, 2023

Alpina Releases a Surprising Limited Edition for a Big Anniversary in the Heritage Carrée Mechanical

Alpina is celebrating their 140th anniversary this year, and the brand that refers to themselves as the inventors of the sports watch have released a rather surprising limited edition to celebrate the occasion. Most recent Alpinas are very much in that very specific sport and adventure watch genre, and fit a familiar profile with modern sensibilities and a design language that speaks to their overall ruggedness. The new limited edition is cut from a very different cloth, and communes directly with the brand’s long history through the components of the watch itself. Using recently discovered and expertly restored vintage movements from the Alpina archives, the Alpiner Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years is partially a history lesson, but also an example of a creative way to pay respect to the past.  This one starts with the movement. The Calibre 490 running inside the Heritage Carrée Mechanical was originally produced in 1938. A total of 28 vintage movements were recently uncovered by Alpina, and have been fully restored to function as they were originally intended when they came off the production line 85 years ago. The rectangular movements were not just ordinary, run of the mill calibers for Alpina at the time, but incorporated new features like a crown assembly that was patented to protect against the intrusion of dust into the case, and robust construction that would predict Alpina’s focus on sports watches in the years to come. The manually wound caliber beats...

[Video] Hands-On: SYE Mot1on Bullitt Limited Edition Chronograph Worn & Wound
Seiko VK64 Meca-Quartz Dial Green Jun 23, 2023

[Video] Hands-On: SYE Mot1on Bullitt Limited Edition Chronograph

SYE (Start Your Engine) is a French watch brand born of the founder’s interest in classic cars, and of course, watches. Not a new story, but their approach to watch design is. SYE has specifically honed in on the idea of leather hood straps for inspiration, appreciating how they incorporate a natural material in with otherwise metal creations. The result is the Mot1on (motion) series of watches, which utilize a novel, complicated, and stylish strap system to fuse metal and leather. $650 [Video] Hands-On: SYE Mot1on Bullitt Limited Edition Chronograph Case Titanium Movement Seiko VK64 Meca-Quartz Dial Green Panda Lume Hands Only Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 50M Dimensions 40.5 x 39.5mm Thickness 14mm Lug Width mm Crown Push-Pull Warranty Yes Price $650 As you’ll see in the video below, the SYE Mot1on chronograph comes in pieces in a box, requiring you to interact with the product upon arrival. Assembly is simple enough, and forces you to appreciate the quality of the product. The watch head has some unique details that give it personality, but the strap itself is what really impressed me. It’s a complex and high-end construction that could cost as much as the whole watch itself if a luxury brand made it. As someone with some experience in making leather straps, it really impressed me. The watch shown in the video is the Bullitt Limited Edition, which is the only SYE to feature a titanium case at this time. Measuring 40.5mm in diameter, it’s essential...

Breitling Launches a Pair of Motorcycle Themed Collaborations in their Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Breitling Launches Jun 23, 2023

Breitling Launches a Pair of Motorcycle Themed Collaborations in their Permanent Collection

Breitling’s long history has continuously been dotted with opportunities to push the brand forward and introduce a new crowd to the Swiss brand. One way to do this is through a continued focus on partnering with brands that complement the Breitling’s mythology, particularly those with a focus on adventure, speed, and adrenaline. Take, for example, the latest releases from Breitling’s Top Time line-up. Originally designed in the 1960’s by Willy Breitling, grandson of the family company’s founder Léon, as a response to the growing interest in motosports. The popular model, worn by design aficionados and 007’s alike, has only increased in popularity over its six-decade span. Now, both Triumph and Deus Ex Machina are putting their own spin on the Top Time platform once again, after a series of previous successful collaborations along similar lines. Released this week, both the Top Time B01 Triumph and Top Time B01 Deus nod to the freewheeling spirit of the decades before while situating their own mark on the brand for the modern wearer. Both the Triumph and the Deus follow a blueprint established in previous collaborations, including the ice blue dial on the Triumph and playful accents on the Deus, but the new watches feature Breitling’s B01 chronograph caliber, whereas the earlier references used an ETA derived Caliber 23. That upgraded caliber is housed within the same 41mm stainless steel case as its predecessors. Often called the “unconventional chronograp...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko remix their Green Birch with Mickey Mouse for Disney 100th celebrations Time+Tide
Grand Seiko remix their Green Birch Jun 23, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko remix their Green Birch with Mickey Mouse for Disney 100th celebrations

Grand Seiko love to celebrate anniversaries, unveiling countless special editions to commemorate milestones of the manufacture. Today, however, Grand Seiko helps Disney celebrate their 100th anniversary with a remixed version of their SLGH011 “Green Birch”. Looking at the front of this 100-piece limited edition SLGH025, everything is exactly the same. But flip it over and … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko remix their Green Birch with Mickey Mouse for Disney 100th celebrations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glashütte Original’s Sixties gets a period-appropriate Small Second variant Time+Tide
Glashütte Original s Sixties gets Jun 23, 2023

Glashütte Original’s Sixties gets a period-appropriate Small Second variant

The Vintage collection has been home to Glashütte Original’s modern re-interpretations of their past catalogues, and the Sixties collection a spitting image of the watches produced under the GUB/Glashütte Original brands during the `60s. The latest in this Spezimatic-numeralled line-up is the Glashütte Original Sixties Small Second. Until now, we’ve seen the Sixties reproduced with … ContinuedThe post Glashütte Original’s Sixties gets a period-appropriate Small Second variant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: the Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT Blue Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT Blue Jun 22, 2023

Hands-On: the Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT Blue

A GMT watch is more of a function than a style, yet I expect your mind goes straight to a red and blue ‘Pepsi’ bezel, or perhaps a red and black ‘Coke’. It’s now 10 years since Rolex first launched the 116710BLNR, so maybe the ‘Batman’ is more your style. Whichever is your favourite, a bi-color bezel is a common sight on a GMT watch. A couple of months back, Bell & Ross added another iteration to their GMT lineup. This one uses the BR 03 outline as its base, and combines it with a sharp blue and gray colorway. The blue isn’t restricted to one half of the bezel only though, which results in a vibrant looking watch. On paper, there’s a lot to like about the BR 03-93 GMT Blue, but how good is it on the wrist? With Bell & Ross’s more typical square cased watches, the dial is relatively simple. Often a black dial, large indices, bold sword hands and plenty of lume. A real utilitarian look. There are some BR 03 models which are altogether more lavish. This is one. The blue dial is bright, with a sunburst finish, and is as vibrant in real life as you’d expect. What’s especially nice to see is that although Bell & Ross’s familiar design language is present in the large numerals at the cardinal points, they are applied indices rising above the dial with superb vertical brushing on the top surfaces. The other indices are also applied, with a generous amount of lume in each. Bell & Ross have taken the familiar, and elevated it into something more elegant. Th...