Hodinkee
Three On Three: Comparing Independent Watches Under $15,000
Here are three truly independent watches, each for under $15,000 and each with something that sets it far apart from the competition. Which will come out on top?
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Hodinkee
Here are three truly independent watches, each for under $15,000 and each with something that sets it far apart from the competition. Which will come out on top?
Time+Tide
Longines expands their fan-favourite Master Collection further with the addition of a new GMT model, the likes of which has been absent from the range for years.The post Longines adds a classy GMT model to their fan-favourite Master Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Swiss watches are regarded by many as the finest timepieces in the world, and finding truly affordable Swiss watches can be, to put it mildly, somewhat challenging. Watches mass-produced in Japan and other Asian countries have cornered much of the market in the affordable realm, which we're defining here as watches with prices roughly topping out at $2,000; even Switzerland's neighbor, Germany, might be able to claim more "serious" brands that aim for this price segment. But due to the sheer size and diversity of its watch industry, Switzerland does offer its own fair share of value-oriented watches, all of which meet the globally respected "Swiss Made" standard. To coin a cliché, you just have to know where to look, and which labels to focus on. Here are 36 affordable Swiss watches, from some of the world's most admired Swiss watch brands, in a handful of popular categories. FASHION Swatch Sistem 51 Price: $155, Reference: SUTN405, Case Size: 42 mm, Case Height: 13.9 mm, Lug To Lug: 50.6 mm, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Crystal: Mineral, Movement: Automatic Swatch, often dismissed as the maker of plastic-cased, quartz-driven, mass-marketed timepieces for limited budgets and trend-driven youth, made the watch world sit up and take notice when it unveiled the Sistem 51 in 2013. Priced at an astounding $150, the watch contained an innovatively designed 51-part mechanical movement with five assembly-line produced modules held together by a single central screw. Swatch...
Monochrome
Let me start by saying that, on this first day of 2024 and on behalf of the entire MONOCHROME team, I’d like to wish you all a Happy and Prosperous New Year. May it be filled with passion for watches and remarkable new models. 2023 has been one of the most prolific years for the […]
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking got hot in 2021, a phenomenon that accelerated into 2022 and continued in 2023. Perhaps because of that, the number of notable, impressive, or truly interesting debuts from independent watchmakers were few. Still, some of the 2023 debuts stood out for us. We rounded up our team’s favourites of the year, which range from Louis Vuitton and Rexhepi Rexhepi to Marco Lang’s open-source construction to an accessibly-priced Habring². Richard Lee Technical Editor The Marco Lang Zweigeischt-1 is an impressively executed three-hand watch with the option of a novel shock-recording complication. However, it was released in 2020. Its inclusion in the 2023 list is because of the open-source technical plans for the entire watch, all of which were made public this year on Mr Lang’s website. Mr Lang’s generosity in sharing his know-how is uncommon and to be applauded. The importance of this initiative can’t be understated. For one, it ensures the longevity of the Zweigeischt-1, since any competent watchmaker will have access to the design and construction, making servicing and repairs easier. Additionally, the accessibility of this information serves as a guidance and inspiration for new watchmakers who are attempting to create their own timepieces. Garnering much attention this year, the Petermann Bedat Reference 2941 was lauded for being an original split-seconds chronograph design with an excellent level of movement finishing. The visible components ar...
Monochrome
Yesterday, we started looking back at 2023 and all the new watches we’ve seen to try and make a list of the best ones. The MONOCHROME Editorial Team took votes to determine the Best Chronograph of 2023, which kicked things off, but also many other categories. Up next is the GMT/Travel category, and although the […]
Monochrome
When you hear the name TAG Heuer, which watches come to mind? The Monaco, the Carrera, or perhaps the Autavia? Maybe the Aquaracer? But what about the Monza? The Monza can be considered the dark horse of TAG Heuer’s lineup, occasionally popping up over the years but never having quite the staying power as other, […]
SJX Watches
As we reported earlier in the year, the F.P. Journe boutique in London at 33 Bruton St is now open. Perfectly placed in the heart of Mayfair, with Berkeley Square at one end and New Bond St at the other, the space used to belong to English gunmaker Holland & Holland, which was once owned by Chanel, an investor in F.P. Journe. We have been lucky enough to go down and see the new store for ourselves, and chat with the friendly team led by Shawn Mehta (pictured above centre alongside Francois-Paul Journe and Amelie Lefevere, chief executive of F.P. Journe). With an aesthetic that will be familiar to anyone who has stepped into one of the brand’s other stores, the space is thoughtful segmented into three parts, with the plan laid out by Mr Journe, who attends to every detail himself. The main area at the front contains the displays of the brand’s watches along with a traditional watchmakers bench and portraits of historical watchmakers that have inspired Mr Journe, including Antide Janvier and Abraham-Louis Breguet. Next sits the “heart” of the boutique according to its staff, the bar area. Stocked with F.P. Journe’s own wine made by Chateau Seguin, it is a fantastic space for discussion. Overlooking this convivial area is a frosted depiction of a Resonance movement that is actually the drinks cabinet. Finally, at the back is a private area with seating where clients consultations take place. A dinner was held to launch the boutique, attended by clients and friends o...
Time+Tide
How do you pick a favourite child? That's exactly what Andrew made Georges Kern do moments after meeting him.The post We asked the Breitling boss to admit what his favourite is, and he told us appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Frederique Constant is well-known for its wide portfolio of manufacture movements, ranging from classic time-only to high-end tourbillons and perpetual calendars. Still, not all watches from FC are powered by these internally developed and assembled calibres. Specifically, most of the brand’s entry-level models rely on Sellita movements. A new collection, which has just been presented, […]
Monochrome
In the vast realm of heavenly wonders, a timepiece exists tailored for every cosmic inquiry. Whether you yearn to unravel the Earth’s speed at the equator, comprehend its orbital dance around the Sun, or learn the angles at which sunrays caress your corner of the world throughout the year, rest assured. There’s a watch designed […]
Time+Tide
From Gran Turismo collabs to early Valentine's Day releases, we bring you all the week's headlines.The post New releases from Squale, Vulcain, Frédérique Constant and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Welcome to the inaugural episode of the SJX Podcast, which will be all about in-depth conversations with people from the heart of the industry, discussing the topics that matter. Our first episode is about collecting: during Dubai Watch Week, we sat down with Adel Al Rahmani, the founder of Dubai Watch Club, and Syed Hamed Hosseini, a collector based in Dubai. Both take extremely different approaches when it comes to their pursuit of watches, and listening to them talk about the reasoning behind each is not only fascinating, but sheds light on collectors’ perspectives. The conversation includes hot topics like what it’s like trying to buy from certain brands when you’re not at the top of the “list” and even the safety of wearing recognisable timepieces in European cities. We hope you enjoy the half hour conversation.
SJX Watches
Amongst the latest Les Cabinotiers collection from Vacheron Constantin, titled Récits de Voyages, is a group of complicated watches which stand out. All feature a tourbillon, but decorated and elaborated upon in different ways for striking diverse results. The collection includes a pair of Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillons, “Tribute to Arabesque” ref. 6650C and “Tribute to Art Deco” ref. 6520C. Alongside these we have two tourbillons in contrasting styles, the Armillary Tourbillon “Tribute to Art Deco Style” ref. 9860C and Malte Tourbillon “Tribute to Haussmannian Style” ref. 30135. Initial thoughts All four watches exemplify what Les Cabinotiers is about – one-off watches equipped with the brand’s highest level calibres and decorated by the best artisans. In doing so these watches wonderfully capture aspects of the company’s history from around the world, the defining theme of Récits de Voyages, which translates as “travel stories”. Given the specialty of these watches, they will not be for everyone. With strong, unique designs, these timepieces are not looking to appeal to the mass market, rather they attest to the ability of the craftspeople at Vacheron Constantin. A personal favourite from this line-up has to be the “Tribute to Art Deco” with its deep-blue wood marquetry dial pairing perfectly with the hand-engraved, pink gold case. While the case is undeniably large, that is unavoidable due to the venerable calibre fitt...
SJX Watches
Mostly made up of no-frills, vintage-inspired chronographs, Breitling’s Top Time collection now gets one of the brand’s most complicated offerings. The Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon is inspired by the livery of 1960s American sports cars like the Ford Mustang, while its mechanics are courtesy of movement specialist La Joux-Perret, which constructed the B21 movement that combines a tourbillon and chronograph with column wheel. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest launch goes far beyond the brand’s typical price range, but it is a chronograph with tourbillon, making it relative affordable given the complications. In fact, the combination of a chronograph with tourbillon is an uncommon pairing regardless of price. The Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette The watch retains the usual retro-inspired Top Time styling, which is attractive. The symmetry of the dial adds to its appeal, as do details like the mirrored register and tourbillon aperture, both shaped like a squircle. While the green and blue dials have a conventional metal finish, the dial on the Chevrolet Corvette edition is burl wood veneer, a reference to the wood steering wheel and dash of the 1960s Corvette. The wood dial and black ceramic case are an unusual combination, but make the Corvette version the most interesting of the trio. The downside of the watch is its size. The case is either 43 mm or 44 mm (depending on the material), which is acceptable, but 15.4 mm thick – that’...
Quill & Pad
As Martin Green became ever more impressed by the performance of the Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement, he also found himself enamored by its little quirks and the variety of watches it has been tapped to power. Here Martin outlines the history of this classic automatic chronograph movement.
Monochrome
Dutch 3D-print watchmaking pioneer Michiel Holthinrichs has moved his watchmaking vision in a new direction with the Deconstructed, which we showed you earlier in the year. This mighty impressive creation had a distinct SciFi exoskeleton vibe, and Holthinrichs Watches now expands the line with two more space-themed watches. Capturing the cosmos with each of the […]
WatchAdvice
We go hands on with Bremont’s newly released Supermarine GMT Diver, the S302. With a bright and vibrant blue/green bezel and blue rubber strap, we think this could be a quiet hit for the British Brand! What We Love Contrasting blue and green bezelSuper comfortable rubber strapNicely proportioned and easy to wear What We Don’t Bezel action could be smootherUni-directional bezel on a GMTLack of quick change strap system Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 8.5/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 8/10 Bremont’s new Supermarine GMT collection was launched last month, a refreshed and refined range under their new CEO, Davide Cerrato. We covered this release (which you can read here) with three models, including a Jet Black, a Blue/ Green on blue rubber, and the limited edition Ocean in grey with Bremont’s new brand ambassador, marine biologist, shark and marine conservationist – Ocean Ramsey. The new Bremont Supermarine GMT Diver collection Since taking the helm at Bremont, we’ve been keen to see what Davide Cerrato would do as his first move when it came to the actual watches, and with a focus on their core lines, the first to be given a refinement was the Supermarine collection, starting with the S302 Diver GMT. Bremont is one of those brands that you want to win. They’ve a great origin story, and this for me is a major part of what makes a watch brand appealing. Why does it exist and what was the rationale for it being started outside of it being...
Worn & Wound
It’s the final day of our huge Black Friday sales week which means we’ve arrived at Cyber Monday. With multiple watch, accessories and EDC deals, many of you may be wondering, how could we possibly top what we’ve done so far. Well, here are three ways this CYBER Monday takes the cake. It’s the final day of our huge Black Friday sales week which means we’ve arrived at Cyber Monday. With multiple watch, accessories and EDC deals, many of you may be wondering, how could we possibly top what we’ve done so far. Well, here are three ways this CYBER Monday takes the cake. The post LAST CHANCE WITH CYBER MONDAY DEALS appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Last month, Christopher Ward announced the C1 Moonphase, which features a beautiful aventurine dial and a pair of oversized, fully lumed moon discs to track the lunar cycle from month to month. If you thought that watch was cool, but maybe you’re not particularly interested in a moon phase complication, the C63 Celest might be more up your alley. This new reference from Christopher Ward trades on the same style of aventurine dial, but dispenses with the moon altogether. The result is a more straightforward watch that puts the unique qualities of aventurine on center stage. The C63 Celest is the first watch outside of Christopher Ward’s Moonphase Collection to feature an aventurine dial. Because the effect of aventurine often mimics a starry night sky, it’s used frequently in watches that feature a moonphase, but without this additional complication, one can admire the material more for what it is. Simply put, it’s a type of glass that’s formed by mixing multiple types of glass together during production, including metallic elements (usually copper) that wind up giving the material a specific tonality and the trademark “star” effect. In the “Galaxy Blue” aventurine used by Christopher Ward, cobalt is used to give the dial its flat, cool blue finish. The Celest is built on Christopher Ward’s C63 platform, and measures a conservative 36mm in diameter. While this case was certainly conceived as a sports watch case through and through, there’s no doubt...
Worn & Wound
A new Horological Machine was released this week in Dubai, marking the 11th numbered edition to the series. The last HM was released in 2020, making this the longest gap between new Machines since Max Busser launched the brand with HM1 in 2007. The new HM11 is simply called Architect, a nod to the inspiration for the unconventional design, which was a particular form of mid-century habitat architecture. Like the Machines that came before it, the 11 is a conceptual wonder, with no shortage of fully bespoke elements that coalesse into something otherworldly on the wrist. What it lacks in practicality, it more than makes up for in pure creativity that pushes horological boundaries in the same way the very first one did. I’ll start off by saying that this isn’t a watch that’s easy to judge by conventional standards; none of the Horological Machines are. And that’s kind of the point. That said, they all present a surprising level of nuance and yes, even ergonomic practicality. The F, or Friends part of MB&F;, aren’t restricted to the usual bounds of mass produced timepieces, but rather work toward the shared goal of expressing an idea and design concept provided by the MB, or Max Busser part of the equation. The end result in the case of the HM11 is a watch modeled after a habitat of another time, or even another world. It tells a story, and offers a landscape of discoveries within its 42mm by 22mm frame. There is a case here, but it defies simple explanation. A flyi...
Time+Tide
In their efforts to provide the most bang for your buck, Brellum outfit the Pilot GMT in a green colourway.The post The Brellum Pilot GMT LE.3 is accessible luxury for pilots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
While his friends’ paths into serious collecting have been fairly diverse, GaryG started with Jaeger-LeCoultre, which opened his eyes to the world of fine watchmaking and served as the foundation for his ongoing fascination with horology. Take a look at Gary's history collecting fascinating timepieces by this revered Swiss brand.
Quill & Pad
Here Alexey Kutkovoy looks at the look at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 'Pride of the Nation' series, which means we’re talking about the embodiment of symbols of national pride in luxury sports watches.
Revolution
Join Eleonor and Remi Guillemin, Head of Watches for Christie’s Europe, to explore the ‘Passion For Time’ auction which consist over 110 lots of the rarest and most desirable timepieces cultivated over four decades by the one and only Mr. Mohammed Zaman from Oman. The esteemed auction consists of a huge variety of extremely desirable […]
Deployant
Sellita is one of the mainstays for Swiss made ébauches in the industry. We pick six watches with movements which are derivatives of the Sellita ébauches.
Time+Tide
The AVI-8 AV-4108 Dambuster pays tribute to the 80th anniversary of the Dambuster Raids of 1943. It’s a followup to their Dambuster chronograph which has nearly sold out. £17 from each sale will go directly to helping people through the Royal British Legion’s poppy appeal. It’s safe to say that AVI-8 as a brand are … ContinuedThe post AVI-8 mark the 80th anniversary of 617 Squadron and Operation Chastise with the AV-4108 Dambuster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We can all pretty much agree that pilot’s watches are awesome, whether or not it’s a historical legend or something more contemporary. There’s something about their utilitarian approach which is inspires our day-to-day lives, letting our imaginations soar whenever we check the time. That said, most pilot’s watch owners don’t actually fly planes. But, if … ContinuedThe post How to use a slide rule bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Watches that break from conventional wisdom tend to provide the most memorable experiences on the wrist. We search out such examples around here and embrace new watches that aren’t afraid to cut against the grain in some way, shape, or form. Doing so presents a risk for brands, particularly large, well established brands. A by-the-numbers design meant to appeal to the largest possible swath of the population must, by definition, be as inoffensive as possible. Deviation from the template risks putting out a percentage of would-be buyers, but it also creates grounds for differentiation, a necessity in today’s crowded landscape of watch brands young and old. Achieving balance here means a design that’s unique and exciting, while being accessible enough to sell to enough people to make it work financially. Generally, the larger the brand the safer they play with this equation. But that’s not always the case, as many large brands still produce polarizing yet recognizable watches that have a focused appeal to a group of die hard fans. I’ll let you conjure up your own examples of watches that fall into this category. One such testament is the Longines HydroConquest, a watch with a big personality that’s been emblematic of the era it was originally designed in, the mid ‘00s. Longines was ahead of the game when it introduced the HydroConquest in 2007, presenting a fully modern, forward looking take on a serious dive watch at Baselworld, and even offered in both 39 a...
Worn & Wound
Breitling is keeping their foot on the gas in redesigning their core collection of aviation watches, and this time they’ve updated their modern pilot range, the Avenger collection. As opposed to Breitling’s other collections, such as the Navitimer and the AVI, the Avenger is relatively new with just over 20 years under its belt. As such, the design feels anchored in a very different aesthetic, which has now been updated to slightly more modern sensibilities while still being a familiar sight overall. The new Avenger collection welcomes a chronograph, a GMT, and time and date watches, each with a variety of options totaling 11 new references altogether. The Aveneger has always been an aviation watch aimed at the more extreme end of things, proudly boasting the winged B logo on its dial and an unorthodox design to suit the needs of the jet pilots it was intended for. The latest generations looks to smooth out a few of the rough edges, and create a design some may consider more palatable to a wider audience. In the process, the Avenger doesn’t quite have the same impact it once had, but will it be more approachable as a result? The new collection ditches the winged B logo, opting for the large scripted B instead, leaving the Professional collection as the last holdout for the classic rendition. The distinctive bezel with heavy block section added to the cardinal positions remains, though in a slightly less aggressive manner than we’ve seen it in the past. This may b...
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