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HANDS-ON: The Rolex GMT Master II Rootbeer is proof that two-tone can be a winning investment Time+Tide
Rolex GMT Master II Rootbeer Feb 13, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Rolex GMT Master II Rootbeer is proof that two-tone can be a winning investment

Two-tone watches don’t get nearly as much love as they once did. The 90s were rampant with bi-metal watches with many opting for the touch of precious metal instead of full stainless-steel references. But boy have times changed with the integrated stainless-steel craze showing no sign of slowing down. As a result, two-tone models do … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Rolex GMT Master II Rootbeer is proof that two-tone can be a winning investment appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rise And Fall Of Fine Watchmaking At Cartier: It’s Been Surprisingly Complicated – Reprise Quill & Pad
Cartier It’s Been Surprisingly Complicated Feb 13, 2021

The Rise And Fall Of Fine Watchmaking At Cartier: It’s Been Surprisingly Complicated – Reprise

While the Collection Privée Cartier Paris was the definitive illustration of a time of forgotten elegance, Cartier's Fine Watch Making Collection, despite its extremely high quality and finishing, became one of the best examples of a disaster in the trend of pretentious haute horlogerie of the last decade. So what's going on with Cartier's high watchmaking division now?

Panerai Introduces the Ultra-Luxe Luminor Marina Platinumtech PAM 1116 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Feb 11, 2021

Panerai Introduces the Ultra-Luxe Luminor Marina Platinumtech PAM 1116

After not having had a platinum model in the catalogue for some time, Panerai is returning to the lustrous and heavy metal with the Platinumtech Luminor Marina PAM01116. But the case of the PAM 1116 is not conventional, PT950 platinum alloy used in most wristwatches, instead it is an extra-hard alloy with better wear resistance. And like many of Panerai’s recent top-of-the-line models, the Platinumtech Luminor boasts a 70-year warranty – which is double emphasised by an oversized emblem on the sapphire back. Initial thoughts Panerai’s recent launches have leaned towards lightweight alloys or composites, which makes the Platinumtech Luminor unusual. The brand has made platinum watches in the distant past – in both Radiomir and Luminor format – and they were always impressively heavy watches with a heft that matched their price tag. The new Platinumtech Luminor is doubtlessly just as impressive in tangible feel, and it is also helped by the olive-green dial that’s unconventional but attractive. The watch is accompanied by an impressive 70-year warranty, but it feels more like a gimmick than something of practical value. Aside from the decades that stretch beyond the lifetime of most living buyers, the movement inside the watch is a straightforward calibre that doesn’t need a 70-year warranty (which is probably why it’s viable for Panerai to offer one in the first place). The Platinumtech Luminor  is expensive for a contemporary Panerai, though not all tha...

Collecting: A City Landmark Immortalised by Voutilainen SJX Watches
Voutilainen Feb 11, 2021

Collecting: A City Landmark Immortalised by Voutilainen

An American collector recently got in touch to share a recently completed Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a custom dial, a watch that’s unusual and interesting, while also having a thoroughly personal character. Christened the Duluth Aerial Lift Bridge Watch, this unique Vingt-8 is a memento of the owner’s home state of Minnesota and its port city of Duluth. Spanning the canal that leads to the Port of Duluth, the Aerial Lift Bridge is a local landmark that can be raised to its full height of 135 feet in order to allow taller ships to pass underneath. Engraved entirely by hand, the dial depicts the Aerial Lift Bridge and a steamship sailing past. It forms the centrepiece of an elaborately decorated Vingt-8 that is also notably discreet in its serene blue and silver colours. Though the owner now lives in a different state, Minnesota holds a special place in his heart. “We are Minnesota residents and have spent a lot of time in Duluth as a family over the years,” explains the owner, “It is one of the most beautiful and scenic places in the country, right on Lake Superior, the largest fresh water lake in the world.” “Seeing the magnificence of these large ocean going ships pass through a very narrow canal under the bridge as they go into the Duluth harbour is truly a sight to behold,” continues the owner, “I have spent a lot of time photographing ships as they pass under the bridge as they come in and out of the harbour.” “I started thinking seriously about ...

Predictions: How feasible is the supposed Patek Philippe 6711 Nautilus “leak” Time+Tide
Patek Philippe 6711 Nautilus “leak” Editor’s Feb 10, 2021

Predictions: How feasible is the supposed Patek Philippe 6711 Nautilus “leak”

Editor’s Note: There is no official confirmation regarding the launch of a Patek Philippe 6711 Nautilus. Anything written below is pure speculation weighing up the potential veracity of the current rumours and is not representative of any correspondence with Patek Philippe. Watch forums are always rampant with watch mock-ups and predictions. The guessing game, in … ContinuedThe post Predictions: How feasible is the supposed Patek Philippe 6711 Nautilus “leak” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

When size is the prize – 11 of the best big watches from dress pieces to divers Time+Tide
Feb 9, 2021

When size is the prize – 11 of the best big watches from dress pieces to divers

Sometimes you need to make a statement.  You want to let the room know that you’ve arrived and need your watch to have your back. When it comes to making an impact, while you can resort to gregarious gem-setting or passionate pops of colour, the diameter of your watch is a much more direct way … ContinuedThe post When size is the prize – 11 of the best big watches from dress pieces to divers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 of the best new black watches, with lume tricks and colour pips Time+Tide
Feb 8, 2021

5 of the best new black watches, with lume tricks and colour pips

Whether you are Darth Vader’s distant cousin or just enjoy the stealthy look of a ninja assassin, let us tempt you to the dark side. NOW, Time+Tide’s Watch Buying Guide, reviewed almost 200 of the best new releases from the last 12 months and among them were some real black beauties. From lume-infested diving watches … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best new black watches, with lume tricks and colour pips appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph says it’s time to re-awaken your inner petrol head Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph says Feb 6, 2021

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph says it’s time to re-awaken your inner petrol head

Surely this is a marriage made in motorsport heaven? Your inner petrolhead might be increasingly dormant at a time where there’s an increasing emphasis on soulless electric cars and less of the freedom and speed that motor racing traditionally symbolises. If so, consider this watch your re-awakening. To paraphrase TAG Heuer CEO Frédéric Arnault, TAG … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph says it’s time to re-awaken your inner petrol head appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: This Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 “Cappuccino” is that rarest of things – a true one-off Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 “Cappuccino” Feb 5, 2021

VIDEO: This Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 “Cappuccino” is that rarest of things – a true one-off

I know its summer in Australia, but here in the United States it’s the bleak mid winter – so we really needed this heat from Zenith. Since we published our hands-on review of the watch, our readers have made it pretty clear what the nickname of the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 Brown Gradient Dial should … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: This Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 “Cappuccino” is that rarest of things – a true one-off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Will Rolex release a gold Explorer-II in April? Time+Tide
Rolex release Feb 4, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Will Rolex release a gold Explorer-II in April?

Things are back in full swing at Time+Tide HQ this year, but the Coronavirus pandemic isn’t done with the watch industry yet. This week we got the announcement that Watches & Wonders (formerly SIHH) would go ahead this year, in a “phygital” format, which sounds like an unpleasant medical condition, but is actually a term … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Will Rolex release a gold Explorer-II in April? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Announces Partnership with Porsche SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Announces Partnership Feb 4, 2021

TAG Heuer Announces Partnership with Porsche

Collaborations between watchmakers and automobiles manufactures are common, but unsurprising given the focus on engineering and styling shared by the two industries. Despite the obvious synergies, the watch-and-car tie ups of recent years have rarely enjoyed unbridled success. Now TAG Heuer is seeking to upend the trend with a partnership with Porsche, the German marque whose 911 is the longest-lived sports car in history. The partnership is being inaugurated with the Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition Calibre Heuer 02 – a thoroughly apt product given that the flagship product of each brand shares the same name inspired by the Carrera Panamericana of the 1950s. Initial thoughts The inaugural watch of the partnership has modest ambitions. On the surface, it appears to be a gentle facelift of the Carrera Sport Chronograph introduced last year. The case and movement remain the same, but the design features a few subtle elements drawn from Porsche’s racing pedigree. The execution is smart without being over-the-top, avoiding the pitfall of excess automotive elements that accompany many automotive collaborations. At US$6,050 on a bracelet, the Carrera Porsche Chronograph is priced at a small and reasonable premium of about 5% over the standard model. Compared with watches resulting from earlier automotive partnerships, the Carrera Porsche Chronograph is affordable, and remains a good value proposition, offering a little extra for Porsche and sports car enthusiasts....

Rolex, Patek, Tudor and TAG plus 34 other brands to show at Watches and Wonders in April Time+Tide
Tudor Feb 4, 2021

Rolex, Patek, Tudor and TAG plus 34 other brands to show at Watches and Wonders in April

I will be perfectly honest, ever since starting to write about watches, my sincere wish has been to meet up with the Time+Tide team at Basel, SIHH or even some far-flung Far Eastern destination. But then, KER-CLUNK! It was as if a giant hand pulled down a large POWER OFF handle, the lights dimmed and … ContinuedThe post Rolex, Patek, Tudor and TAG plus 34 other brands to show at Watches and Wonders in April appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph is set to be one of the boldest sports watches of 2020 Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Feb 2, 2021

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph is set to be one of the boldest sports watches of 2020

The term “luxury sports watch” is often an overused clichè.  But the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph leaves you in no doubt of its intentions. A bold case combined with serious swagger and eye-popping green accents makes it a bright spark of contemporary design in a world of homage watches. Shy it ain’t. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph is set to be one of the boldest sports watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph brings green lasers to a gun fight Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Jan 31, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph brings green lasers to a gun fight

The expression “luxury sports watch” is often hideously misused and exaggerated. But here the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph leaves you in no doubt. Serious swagger and hyper-fresh pops of green are the order of the day to bring a bright spark of sharp contemporary design into a world of vintage homage. First … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph brings green lasers to a gun fight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black Time+Tide
Bulgari Hublot Jan 30, 2021

INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black

It’s late January, which means it’s LVMH Watch Week, an event where the watch departments of Bulgari, Hublot and Zenith unleash their new novelties for the year. For Hublot in 2021, we enjoyed a number of updates to existing collections, including a totally new colour of sapphire crystal in the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic, a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulgari Debuts the All Steel, Tone-on-Tone Octo Finissimo S SJX Watches
Bulgari Debuts Jan 28, 2021

Bulgari Debuts the All Steel, Tone-on-Tone Octo Finissimo S

Essentially a slimmed down and pared back version of its flagship watch, the Octo Finissimo has gained more fans than the first-generation model, thanks to a sleek profile along with newly-developed ultra-thin movements. Though the Octo Finissimo lineup is as wide as the watch is thin, the base model remains the most compelling, being an original take on the integrated-bracelet sports watch – a crowded and fashionable segment. Now Bulgari adds a brushed, silvered dial to the Octo Finissimo S, creating a tone-on-tone aesthetic defined by subtle contrasts in textures but looks surprisingly casual. Initial thoughts The just-released watch isn’t entirely new, so it has all the appeal of the earlier variants, most notably a slim, elegant profile on the wrist. But it does incorporate many incremental changes that set it apart from the original Octo Finissimo that was entirely matte titanium, before also being offered in sand-blasted steel, and finally in polished- and satin- finished steel. The original Octo Finissimo models in (from left) rose gold, steel, and titanium The brushed-silver dial on the newest variant, however, has given the watch a less formal style that is appealingly industrial with its expanse of brushed and polished steel. And the monochromatic palette is also unusual, distinguishing it from peers that tend to have darker dials that are almost always blue. Price-wise, the new dial costs US$100 over the earlier version, a modest hike that leaves the watc...

RECOMMENDED READING: Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 discontinued, market price climbs 50% within a week! Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 discontinued market Jan 28, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 discontinued, market price climbs 50% within a week!

Earlier this week, it was reported that Patek Philippe had discontinued the hottest luxury watch on the market after 15 years: the Nautilus 5711/A. The news was rather shocking when you consider the fact the watch commanded a speculated eight year waitlist – and that is assuming you had earned the privilege of being added … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 discontinued, market price climbs 50% within a week! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Garrick Debuts an Affordable, Contemporary Take on English Watchmaking SJX Watches
Garrick Jan 27, 2021

Garrick Debuts an Affordable, Contemporary Take on English Watchmaking

Garrick is a newish independent watch brand based in Norfolk, England. Founded in 2014, it specialises in watches inspired by historical English watchmaking, exemplified by the S1, an elaborately-conceived, but pricey, timepiece. Now the brand has launched its most compelling buy to date, the Garrick S4. Like its earlier model, the S4 still possesses many elements drawn from English watches of yore, but is executed more simply. The S4 still boasts an unusual level of hand-finished details – including a barrel and crown wheel cover decorated with floral engraving and hand-finished bevelling – but is priced far more accessibly, with a retail price that starts under US$6,000 before taxes. Initial thoughts While independent-watchmaking startups are proliferating, most don’t diverge too far from each other; many focus on dial and case designs that are modern looking, think Ming and Sartory Billard. The Garrick S4 is unusual, particularly in two attributes that set it apart – traditional, pocket watch-inspired design and hand-finished details – which bring to mind an earlier generation of independent watchmakers like D. Dornblüth & Sohn. The most discernible feature of the S4 is the dial, which is unabashedly classical in style. But like the pocket watches that inspire it, the dial has depth, thanks to a multiple-part construction and varied surface finishes, including an engine-turned seconds register. Over on the back, the view is necessarily simpler than that ...

De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Two Dials Means Double The Pleasure (Plus Video) Quill & Pad
De Bethune DB Kind Jan 26, 2021

De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Two Dials Means Double The Pleasure (Plus Video)

There’s a new double-faced superstar in town: the De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon. Co-founder and chief watchmaker Denis Flageollet wanted to create a watch with two distinct identities, incorporating two sets of brand “DNA” on the same watch. He also wanted to use the brand’s signature, patented floating lugs to their fullest extent. Elizabeth Doerr thinks Flageollet succeeded in his goals and explains why here.

INTRODUCING: Inspired by a wilderness paradise come this trio of Seiko Prospex Diver 140th Anniversary Limited Editions Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex Diver 140th Anniversary Jan 26, 2021

INTRODUCING: Inspired by a wilderness paradise come this trio of Seiko Prospex Diver 140th Anniversary Limited Editions

Any watch enthusiast whose tastes gravitate towards dive or tool watches will be familiar with the Seiko Prospex collection. It’s the bulletproof, no-nonsense collection that Seiko produce with the professional outdoors person in mind, hence the name Prospex – contracted from Professional Specifications. The Prospex line is now bolstered with the all-new Seiko SPB207, SLA047 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Inspired by a wilderness paradise come this trio of Seiko Prospex Diver 140th Anniversary Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 25, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver

Launched alongside the Chronomaster Sport at LVMH Watch Week, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver is a limited edition that’s a nod to Zenith’s long history of aviation watches – with a twist. While the style is the 1920s-inspired look typical of Zenith’s Pilot range, the new chronograph is dressed entirely in sterling silver, giving it a bright finish. Inspired by the aluminium bodies of vintage aircraft, the silver case will darken with time as the alloy oxidises, but the dial will remain pristine, protected by the case. Initial thoughts Zenith has been on a tear in recent years, introducing a diversity of watches, ranging from the Chronomaster Revival A385 to the mind-boggling Defy Inventor. Few of the new launches were Pilot models, resulting in a quiet spell for the line, a shame considering Zenith’s storied heritage in aviation watches. The new chronograph will no doubt do its part to revive the line. Pilot’s watches are often aesthetically conservative – not so here. The Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver is meant to stand out on the wrist, and I’m all for it. I had the opportunity to interact with a prototype, and the riveted, silver dial looks even better in the metal. The brushed surface has a shimmering quality that changes under different light, allowing it to catch the eye from every angle. Clad in silver The Chronograph Silver is cased in sterling silver, or 925, indicating it is 92.5% silver by weight. While not the first Pilot ...

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph Jan 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial

Last year, the time-only Octo Finissimo watches received a major upgrade in the form of a screw-down crown and improved depth rating of 100 metres. They also received contrasting finishes to the highly faceted surfaces of the case and bracelet. This resulted in a greater play with light and a watch that became both more … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Blindsided by brilliance: three Grand Seiko watches from 2020 that we never saw coming Time+Tide
Grand Seiko watches from 2020 Jan 23, 2021

Blindsided by brilliance: three Grand Seiko watches from 2020 that we never saw coming

Grand Seiko and their meticulous artistry never cease to amaze me. Each watch has a rich back story with every dial tone, texture, case form and finish carefully selected in order to best convey the brand’s grammar of design. Their relationship with Japanese culture and the nature that surrounds their workshops really shines through in … ContinuedThe post Blindsided by brilliance: three Grand Seiko watches from 2020 that we never saw coming appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.