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Field Watch

The military-utility tool watch genre. WWI trench → WWII Dirty Dozen → MIL-W-46374 → Hamilton Khaki and Marathon GPM.
Audemars Piguet Announces Partnership with Marvel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Announces Partnership Mar 18, 2021

Audemars Piguet Announces Partnership with Marvel

Audemars Piguet just announced many of the year’s new launches during Inside AP, a virtual presentation anchored by chief executive François-Henry Bennahmias and head of complications Michael Friedman, which also included something more intriguing – a partnership with Marvel and its band of superheroes. Hinted at when I interviewed Mr Bennahmias in 2019 – the announcement originally slated for a June 2020 – the tie up was decades in the making. According to Mr Bennahmias, he had envisioned a tie up with Marvel, the film studio and comic-book publisher that owns characters like Spider-Man, Iron Man, as well as the Avengers and X-Men, some 15 years ago. He only managed to set it in motion in 2017, thanks to American actor Don Cheadle, best known for playing War Machine in the Iron Man and Avengers film series. Friends with Mr Bennahmias for a decade, Mr Cheadle set up a meeting with Marvel executives that year, and also took part in today’s Inside AP presentation. Francois-Henry Bennahmias (left) and Don Cheadle Coming soon to a watch near you. Image – Marvel Studios Mr Bennahmias noted the Marvel partnership was inspired in part by the Fantasy watches of Gerald Genta that featured Disney characters like Mickey Mouse. Coincidentally, Marvel is now owned by The Walt Disney Company, making it a realisation of his ambition in more ways than one. More details about this tie up will be revealed in April during an event in Los Angeles. Stay tuned.  

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A Wristwatch for India’s Biggest Sport SJX Watches
Mar 8, 2021

A Wristwatch for India’s Biggest Sport

Popular globally but especially in Commonwealth countries, cricket is the biggest sport in India, which accounts for over 90% of the one billion cricket fans globally according to the sport’s governing body. During the 2019 Cricket World Cup, the India-Pakistan match was seen by by 545 million people in India alone. So if there was ever an appropriate sport for an Indian watchmaker, it certainly is cricket. Bangalore Watch Company (BWC) does exactly that with the Cover Drive, a wristwatch with a cricket score-counting bezel. Initial thoughts Sport-themed watches are common, but a cricket watch is definitely a first. While I’m not a fan of the game, I can see how the Cover Drive would appeal to cricket enthusiasts. For one, the watch is catered to cricket in terms of function, with a bezel that’s graduated to “track elapsed overs in a 50-overs or T20 cricket match” according to the BWC. And its aesthetics are also gently inspired by the game. The hour indices, for instance,  are modelled on a stump, the wooden pole used in cricket that make up a wicket. And the triple marker at 12 o’clock resembles a wicket, which made up of three stumps and protected by the batsman. However, all of that also means the Cover Drive – itself is named after a particular shot in cricket – is very much a niche product, albeit one with a billion-strong audience. While the cricket references will only resonate with fans of the sport, the Cover Drive is designed well. It’s legi...

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Breitling Introduces the Chronomat Red Arrows SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Mar 3, 2021

Breitling Introduces the Chronomat Red Arrows

Best known for its pilot’s watches, Breitling has long enjoyed relationships with airforces across the world, including the United Kingdom’s Royal Air Force (RAF), especially its fabled aerobatic team, the Red Arrows. Continuing a partnership that is three decades old, Breitling has just announced the Chronomat Red Arrows Limited Edition. This is the latest in several Red Arrows editions that began in the 1990s, but the first that’s based on the latest-generation Chronomat, which also means it’s the first with an in-house movement, the Caliber 01. Not as revered by enthusiasts as the Navitimer with its distinctive slide-rule bezel, the Chronomat is nonetheless underrated. Introduced in 1984 to mark Breitling’s 100th anniversary, the modern-day Chronomat was a return to form for the brand, being a bold, brand-new design equipped with a mechanical movement, specifically the Valjoux 7750. Made even more distinctive with its Rouleaux bracelet made up of baton links, the Chronomat quickly became a bestseller that defined Breitling in the 1990s. Initial thoughts Given that fact that perhaps the best known Breitling-Red Arrows watch was a 1995 Chronomat with a red dial, the new edition makes perfect sense. That said, the Red Arrows watch is essentially the same as the standard Chronomat with a blue dial, but with the Red Arrows logo at 12 o’clock. Having more Red Arrows-specific elements incorporated to the design would have made it more distinctive, but since this ...

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How Richard Mille’s new partnership with Ferrari is shaking up Formula One sponsorship Time+Tide
Richard Mille s new partnership Mar 1, 2021

How Richard Mille’s new partnership with Ferrari is shaking up Formula One sponsorship

As the 2021 season of Formula 1 revs up to get started, the drama and speculation around the 10 teams continues to grow with each passing day. With a newly introduced cost cap regulation, the way in which F1 teams spend their fat stacks of cash is under a harsh spotlight. But the way they … ContinuedThe post How Richard Mille’s new partnership with Ferrari is shaking up Formula One sponsorship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Grand Seiko Introduces the Heritage SLGH007 in Platinum SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Feb 26, 2021

Grand Seiko Introduces the Heritage SLGH007 in Platinum

Twenty twenty-one is a celebratory year for Seiko, which marks its 140th anniversary. Amongst the slew of watches launched for the occasion is the posh but stealth Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Seiko 140th Anniversary (SLGH007). Cased in platinum and equipped with new 9SA5 movement, this is one of two platinum watches commissioned for the occasion, but unlike the Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Days that’s extravagantly set with diamonds and garnets, the SLGH007 is discreet, and even slightly intriguing with its tree ring-patterned dial. Initial thoughts Translating local flora and fauna into dial designs is a Grand Seiko specialty – which it named “The Nature of Time” – typically in the form of a stamped, patterned dial inspired by nature around its factories. But despite being one of many inspired by similar themes, the SLGH007 manages to stand out. The pronounced grain on the dial is not only new, but also diverges from the usual styling. Most patterned Grand Seiko dials rely on repeating patterns on a smaller scale, while the tree-ring dial has large, obvious figuring that forms a distinct landscape. And its charcoal-black finish makes it even more special – standing in contrast to the brighter colours Grand Seiko now favours – especially when matched with the platinum case. The result is a watch that’s low-key but stylish, and reminds me of the similarly-dressed Lange 1 “Darth”. The SLGH007 also has solid mechanics: it’s the fourth Grand Seiko to...

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Panerai Introduces the Ultra-Luxe Luminor Marina Platinumtech PAM 1116 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Feb 11, 2021

Panerai Introduces the Ultra-Luxe Luminor Marina Platinumtech PAM 1116

After not having had a platinum model in the catalogue for some time, Panerai is returning to the lustrous and heavy metal with the Platinumtech Luminor Marina PAM01116. But the case of the PAM 1116 is not conventional, PT950 platinum alloy used in most wristwatches, instead it is an extra-hard alloy with better wear resistance. And like many of Panerai’s recent top-of-the-line models, the Platinumtech Luminor boasts a 70-year warranty – which is double emphasised by an oversized emblem on the sapphire back. Initial thoughts Panerai’s recent launches have leaned towards lightweight alloys or composites, which makes the Platinumtech Luminor unusual. The brand has made platinum watches in the distant past – in both Radiomir and Luminor format – and they were always impressively heavy watches with a heft that matched their price tag. The new Platinumtech Luminor is doubtlessly just as impressive in tangible feel, and it is also helped by the olive-green dial that’s unconventional but attractive. The watch is accompanied by an impressive 70-year warranty, but it feels more like a gimmick than something of practical value. Aside from the decades that stretch beyond the lifetime of most living buyers, the movement inside the watch is a straightforward calibre that doesn’t need a 70-year warranty (which is probably why it’s viable for Panerai to offer one in the first place). The Platinumtech Luminor  is expensive for a contemporary Panerai, though not all tha...

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Rolex, Patek, Tudor and TAG plus 34 other brands to show at Watches and Wonders in April Time+Tide
Tudor Feb 4, 2021

Rolex, Patek, Tudor and TAG plus 34 other brands to show at Watches and Wonders in April

I will be perfectly honest, ever since starting to write about watches, my sincere wish has been to meet up with the Time+Tide team at Basel, SIHH or even some far-flung Far Eastern destination. But then, KER-CLUNK! It was as if a giant hand pulled down a large POWER OFF handle, the lights dimmed and … ContinuedThe post Rolex, Patek, Tudor and TAG plus 34 other brands to show at Watches and Wonders in April appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black Time+Tide
Bulgari Hublot Jan 30, 2021

INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black

It’s late January, which means it’s LVMH Watch Week, an event where the watch departments of Bulgari, Hublot and Zenith unleash their new novelties for the year. For Hublot in 2021, we enjoyed a number of updates to existing collections, including a totally new colour of sapphire crystal in the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic, a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Grief, frustration and regret: The watches that got away… Time+Tide
Jan 3, 2021

Grief, frustration and regret: The watches that got away…

I may sound mad to anyone not consumed with a boggle-eyed obsession for watches. But as many of you know, the watches that get away can hurt just as much to talk about as a failed relationship. In the dazed aftermath, processing your heartache often requires some long and painful soul-searching. How can you ever … ContinuedThe post Grief, frustration and regret: The watches that got away… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The watches I wore the most in 2020: The Seiko Prospex SPB083J1, Sinn 104 and Lorier Neptune Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SPB083J1 Sinn 104 Jan 2, 2021

The watches I wore the most in 2020: The Seiko Prospex SPB083J1, Sinn 104 and Lorier Neptune

Sooo difficult! This has been a bastard year, in which one of the few ways to cheer yourself up in the Home Office has been to keep the collection in rotation and flip some unworn wrist machines. But still, within my changing collection, there are a handful of watches that have stuck with me. I … ContinuedThe post The watches I wore the most in 2020: The Seiko Prospex SPB083J1, Sinn 104 and Lorier Neptune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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We followed every single round of the Fratello Omega Speedmaster World Cup in case you missed it, and the winner is… Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster World Cup Dec 26, 2020

We followed every single round of the Fratello Omega Speedmaster World Cup in case you missed it, and the winner is…

Which is the best Omega Speedmaster of all time? Our friends at Fratello Watches decided there was only one way to settle this one properly – by launching the Speedmaster World Cup. Over a gruelling tournament that lasted almost two months(!), 32 eager Speedies duked it out to determine who would be the ultimate victor. … ContinuedThe post We followed every single round of the Fratello Omega Speedmaster World Cup in case you missed it, and the winner is… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: Unboxing the hyped khaki green HydroConquest, purchased online from Longines Time+Tide
Longines Memory Dec 21, 2020

VIDEO: Unboxing the hyped khaki green HydroConquest, purchased online from Longines

Memory is a funny thing. Mainly because of what and how little we do actually remember. This is, in part, explained by the serial-position effect (please don’t click away from this page, this isn’t as boring as it sounds), which is the theory behind why we remember the start and end of events, but not … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Unboxing the hyped khaki green HydroConquest, purchased online from Longines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Richard Mille Introduces the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces Dec 19, 2020

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph

Hot on the heels of the RM 72-01 powered by the brand’s first in-house chronograph movement, Richard Mille has just introduced the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph, continuing its historical focus on ultra high-end chronographs, which began with RM 004 of 2003. Not only is the RM 65-01 the first self-winding split-seconds chronograph from Richard Mille, it’ll also be the brand’s first serially produced watch with the complication, joining watches like the RM 11 as a mainstay of the line up. Initial thoughts Highly-complex chronographs are embedded in Richard Mille’s DNA – the company’s first chronograph was RM 004, which was a hand-wind, split-seconds powered by a Renaud & Papi movement. And in the space of a year, Richard Mille has unveiled two all-new chronographs, starting with the RM 72-01, and now the RM 65-01. RM 65-01 in Carbon NTPT The RM 65-01 is typically Richard Mille in style and materials, exuding sportiness with its techno-industrial movement finish, skeletonised dial, and multicoloured indicators. On any other watch, the colours would look like the designers are trying too hard, but in the RM 65-01, they just work. The movement, however, is notable for being a technically accomplished calibre produced by Vaucher, the respect movement specialist that’s a sister company of Parmigiani. Historically Vaucher has only supplied movements for the brand’s entry-level timepieces, while the more complicated calibres were made by Renaud ...

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Urwerk UR-220: Spacetime Curves And Satellites Reign Supreme Quill & Pad
Urwerk UR-220 Spacetime Curves Dec 13, 2020

Urwerk UR-220: Spacetime Curves And Satellites Reign Supreme

The Urwerk UR-220 is an evolution of the popular UR-210, featuring the now-iconic Urwerk satellite display for the hours and minutes. And it's one more tangential celebration of Einstein’s theory. “The Falcon Project” is the nickname for the first variation of the UR-220, which sees the return of some legacy details from other models and the addition of some small changes to the function and aesthetic of the watch overall. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look.

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Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Review Dec 13, 2020

Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Review

The Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”, a timepiece clouded in such mystery that its existence was all but forgotten, until recently. The story behind this timepiece goes back to 1970, where after the iconic El Primero movement was produced by Zenith, the manufacture also produced a prototype for a manual winding chronograph. This chronograph model was housed in a blackened steel case, which was quite rare during the ’70s. The manufacture produced only a handful of these concepts, with the watch never making it into full production.  Soon after, the quartz crisis hit, which forced Zenith’s El Primero savior Charles Vermont to store all the plans and designs for mechanical watches including El Primero designs in a secret walled off attic in the manufacture. Just imagine though, if this beautiful all-black timepiece was never to be uncovered by the manufacture!  Luckily this wasn’t the case, as in 2019 when Zenith began celebrating their 50th anniversary of the El Primero Chronograph caliber, the team at the manufacture decided to go through all the plans, designs, and parts that they found in the secret attic. Among the numerous items hidden away, was a box that contained the original prototype of this special black chronograph model. A model that hasn’t been seen by anyone since the early 1970s.  The Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” project is a remake of the original 1970 model. Zenith, however, decided that instead of faithfully reproducing a replica of...

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Minase Introduces the Divido Deep Blue Urushi Silver Maki-e SJX Watches
Minase Dec 11, 2020

Minase Introduces the Divido Deep Blue Urushi Silver Maki-e

Set up only in 2005, Minase is a Japanese brand that excels in high-end cases, befitting a company that’s an offshoot of precision toolmaker Kyowa Co., which also manufactures watch cases and bracelets. The latest from Minase combines its top-of-the-line case making with artisanal craft – the Divido Deep Blue Urushi Silver Maki-e has a traditional lacquer dial created collaboration by lacquer artist Megumi Shimamoto. Initial thoughts Exuding a Japanese character in how it combines cutting-edge technology with an ancient craft, the new Divide has a sharply-finished, angular case with an artisanal dial. As with all Minase watches, the case finishing is the most obvious highlight – not only is the case itself elaborate and multifaceted, but each of the surfaces has been finished to a high level with a flat polishing technique, resulting in well-defined breaks between brushed and polished planes. Resembling the robots of Japanese anime, the sleek is design interrupted by only one element, the oversized date window, which mars the purity of the lacquer dial. That said, the date wheel itself is done in good taste, being black with white print. Megumi Shimamoto carefully applies urushi to the dial with a finely-tipped brush In a world of uninspired, recycled watch designs, the Divido is a breath of fresh air – at a hefty price. With its well-executed case and Japanese lacquer dial, the new Divido costs a bit over 5,300 Swiss francs, a 63% premium over the version launc...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Here’s the reason we just released two watches with George Bamford instead of one Time+Tide
Dec 10, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Here’s the reason we just released two watches with George Bamford instead of one

It’s not really a stretch to say that after a slow, weird, stymied kind of year we are off to the races. Last week we launched the third edition of NOW Magazine, which has kept us run off our feet this week sending out copies to enthusiastic watch lovers around the world. This week, we … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Here’s the reason we just released two watches with George Bamford instead of one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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After 6 years of dreaming about it, we’ve finally released our first watches, and we’ve partnered with George Bamford Time+Tide
Dec 10, 2020

After 6 years of dreaming about it, we’ve finally released our first watches, and we’ve partnered with George Bamford

We are beyond excited to introduce the Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT1 Limited Edition of 50 pieces which is available here and the GMT2, a Limited Production 2021 model that will only be available for 12 months. These are the first two watches ever released by Time+Tide, and they arrive to mark a year when … ContinuedThe post After 6 years of dreaming about it, we’ve finally released our first watches, and we’ve partnered with George Bamford appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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LIST: Zach Blass’ 5 favourite articles of 2020 Time+Tide
Dec 9, 2020

LIST: Zach Blass’ 5 favourite articles of 2020

The year is coming to a close (thank heavens) and there is a brighter horizon to look forward to in the coming months. However, there is value in reflecting on this past year, with the Time+Tide team coming in strong with amazing content throughout the doom and gloom – some of which you may have … ContinuedThe post LIST: Zach Blass’ 5 favourite articles of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Introduces the 140th Anniversary King Seiko KSK “44KS” Re-creation SJX Watches
Grand Seiko remakes are numerous making Dec 8, 2020

Seiko Introduces the 140th Anniversary King Seiko KSK “44KS” Re-creation

Introduced in 1961 as a top-of-the-line Seiko, the King Seiko label is being revived for the brand’s 140th anniversary. A remake of the second King Seiko model of 1965, the Seiko 140th Anniversary Re-creation of King Seiko KSK (ref. SJE083) is a limited-edition automatic that’s only the second King Seiko remake in as many decades. It comes along a long time after the first very remake, which was the SCVN001 introduced as part of the Historical Collection in 2000. Initial thoughts Like most Seiko remakes, the King Seiko KSK is faithfully executed, albeit with a few tweaks to accommodate the new movement. The case is larger than the original, and the dial now incorporates a date display. But the tweaks to the design are done artfully enough that the remake still looks very much like a vintage watch. And while Grand Seiko remakes are numerous, making them less uncommon than they once were, this is only the second King Seiko remake to date. While it is almost a certainty there will be more remakes to come, this is fairly special edition for the time being. The vintage King Seiko KSK “44KS” of 1965 Interestingly, the remake also sits in between Grand Seiko and entry-level models like the Presage in both price and quality, making it a useful proposition for someone who has a budget that doesn’t quite reach Grand Seiko level. Fittingly since the vintage original was conceived as a high-end wristwatch – comparable to Grand Seiko but perhaps a step down in luxury –...

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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Saxonia Outsize Date SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 7, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Saxonia Outsize Date

First unveiled in 2018 in either pink or white gold with black dials, the Saxonia Outsize Date is now offered in the chromatic opposite, once again in both metals but with a silver dial. Characterised by a no-frills design centred on the extra-large date display, the new Saxonia is identical to the earlier version. The case remains the same compact 38.5 mm in diameter, and contains the L086.8 movement (which is a close relative of the L155.1 in the Odysseus sports watch). Initial thoughts Very much typical of A. Lange & Söhne in style, the new Saxonia is a clean, serious-looking wristwatch with a high level of fit and finish, packaged in a modestly-sized, 38.5 mm case. It is simplicity done well. While the original version in black had a stark and decidedly more modern look found in few Lange watches, the new Saxonia has a more classical aesthetic that is more in keeping with the brand’s house style, which should please traditionalists. Priced at a bit over €26,000, or about US$30,000, the Saxonia Outsize Date is reasonable value given its quality, both inside and out; the movement is finished to Lange standards, while the dial is solid silver with solid-gold hands and markers. The only thing that might be a minus is the L086.8 movement, because it is not as elaborate as the first-generation Lange automatic movement, the L921 “Sax-O-Mat” that is now only found in the Langematik Perpetual Calendar (as the L922.1) and Saxonia Annual Calendar (L085.1). The newer L086...

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HANDS-ON: The Bremont Hawking in white gold is a brief history in time of its own Time+Tide
Bremont Hawking Dec 5, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Bremont Hawking in white gold is a brief history in time of its own

I got to wear this icon-inspired Bremont Hawking in white gold for a brief moment in time, which is particularly apt given its association with Stephen Hawking. Here’s my ten pennies’ worth on the watch. Truth be told, I am desperate for this watch not to disappoint because Hawking is a hero of mine I’d … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bremont Hawking in white gold is a brief history in time of its own appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Baltic Introduces the HMS and Bicompax Perpétuel Editions SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Dec 2, 2020

Baltic Introduces the HMS and Bicompax Perpétuel Editions

A newly established specialist retailer in Dubai, Perpétuel is making its debut with the Baltic x Perpétuel HMS and Bicompax, a pair of watches conceived to mark the 49th National Day of the United Arab Emirates, which was formed in 1971, hence the 71-piece edition. Both are variations of the signature timepieces of Baltic, a French brand that got its start on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter and has since made accessibly priced, retro-style watches its specialty. The HMS Initial thoughts Baltic offers a strong value proposition with its vintage-inspired watches featuring stepped bezels and sector dials that are powered by Chinese movements, explaining the affordable pricing. The Perpétuel editions are novel. Although their Eastern Arabic numerals on the dial are common in watches for the Middle East, they are not often found in entry-level watches, especially those with retro designs. Combined with the forest-green dial colour, both models are very much catered to the culture of the Middle East. But they also have substantial appeal for anyone outside the region, thanks to the colour, smart design, and graceful style of the Eastern Arabic script. But the Perpétuel are pricey, being notably more expensive than the standard models. However, they are still affordable in absolute terms, and considering the small, 71-piece run, remain fair value for money. HMS and Bicompax Both the HMS and Bicompax share the same case dimensions of 38 mm by 12 mm. Matched with a domed Hes...

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